Great video. I knew about peroxide but not about the vinegar. This video actually taught me more about the mold and how to kill it down low. Thank you. Have a great New Year
This green Stalk needs the watering system to distribute the water appropriately. Inside in the winter it may not need water for weeks with small plants. It should also have soil ALL the way filling the levels so plants are elevated enough to fully get the light. I enjoy your experiment but a little research on the correct Green Stalk setup will set you up for success. I have 4 set up outside in Texas and only need water now about twice a week.
new grower and sub , I just checked on my plants 2 days ago and mold on all of them. I was watching another video on something else to do with gardening and you came up in almost thousands of comments . most were saying how informational you were ,so I decided to check your videos out. first video I seen was this one and I wasn't even looking for the mold problem yet. read my mind and the info you gave definitely helps and I will try it. I am zone 6B in Pennsylvania and trying certain things to see what will grow here and what won't, thank you very much
That was useful. I do not have mold but I am sure the vinegar trick will work if I ever do. Nice to know it does not kill the plant. So yes, I learned something. Thank you.
I'm getting moss in my raised VegePod garden. I wonder if this method will work for my situation, especially if I do it before the planting season! Thanks, Luke! Happy New Year, too!
I gave up on house plants. Friends had good intentions of offering suckers from small trees outside my zone and sure enough mold bloom in the pot and house. No more house plants. However, I do plan to get starters going early spring for the garden. They should be ok out in the garage until planting and not cause mold problems like the enormous planters that must be transported on moving dollies.
Thanks so much for this. I noticed lots of mold/fungus on my stored soil mix I have in a storage tote outside. The top is always on it so I just took the top off and letting it get some air before I use it to fill my new raised bed.
Thank you so much for the awesome advice! I'm in Southern California but it rained a lot last winter & spring so I had fungus gnats that wouldn't go away. And now I'm getting mold for the 1st time. I'm going to try the peroxide & white vinegar this week. Thanks again!
Its a very weak solution. Yes, vinegar can be very dangerous. A safer product is Seachem Acid Buffer (used in aquariums) but you really need to test the pH after adjusting. A little bit makes a big difference. @@Murlockingqc
Just found a comment with the same question he actually answered; 1 cup 3% H2O2 in 1 gallon H2O, so 1:16 hydrogen peroxide to water ratio. I have seen a ratio as strong as 1:4 recommended by others, but for the purposes of treating root rot. Definitely direct the solution at the soil and not the plants for this one. Try to avoid splashing leaves.
It would be helpful for you to be specific about how much vinegar in how much water. You say 3 tbs but how much water did you have? Does it matter much?
Man... I received a Key Lime plant from a nursery last year that was so badly infested with fungus gnats that the soil was moving from the number of larva moving around. I hit it 4 times that day with hydrogen peroxide right from the bottle (3% strength). Was super concerned I would kill the plant but didnt want the gnats spreading. The next day there was still a significant fraction of them around so I hit them 2x more. That almost got rid of them but the final nail was a tea made from Mosquito Bits. Now I treat all of my plants with mosquito bits tea every couple weeks. (The plant defoliated due to the fungus gnats and my hydrox attack but it sprung back, less a few lower limbs which never recovered probably due to root damage) Now if I could only find as definitive a fix for spider mites... they keep coming back and no amount of neem oil, dish soap, and isopropyl alcohol mix seems to do the trick for very long. Merp Thanks for the tips! Mold deep in the soil doesn't bother me any but good thoughts on the vinegar dosing. May come in handy! Also seems like a great way to treat blueberry seedlings?
@@sza2bom Thanks for the suggestion - I'll look into it. Not a huge fan of insecticides but frankly this is starting to drive me crazy so maybe it is time to go with something more significant than neem oil and alcohol.
diatomaceous earth? I bought a bag from a big box and I still have tons of it. It's really powdery and light so dust mask. The way I do it is very very simple. I bet you could find something similar. I just repurposed a facial powder puff because that kind of powder is equally fine. I dab the puff in the bag and then, manually go over the plant, especially the bottom of the leaves. Because your plant is indoors, you don't have to worry about rain. You'll just have "Casper the house plant". Another thing would be the insect stickies. If those things can trap a mosquito.. they're going to be tar pits for spider mites. I'd probably temporarily cover the plant with something like a row cover to trap the mites in the area. Dust with the earth and have stickies near the stem and maybe some sort of flat cover (think paper plate just on top of the soil) . After all, the plant doesn't care if you are covering the soil. All it cares about is light, moisture and food for the most part. We want to control the ingress and egress points. (This is war.) The BT is a great thing but it does kill some microbial life in the soil. I don't know if you care. I use it for my mulched paths and things like that. It probably isn't a big deal. Just throw new compost or something like that and you'll get all the friendly bugs back. Good luck in the battle.
@@jenniferhunter4074 Thanks! I use DE for other pest control so I will give it a try with this. I didn't know spider mites access the soil... that is useful to know. The BT is about as far as "scorched earth" as I am willing to go and yeah not super happy with the downsides. I really appreciate you sharing! Looks like I have more options to explore.
@@gannas42 I thought you said you had fungus gnats as well? But yeah.. spider mites also, at least from what I've read. The leaf litter could have babies/aka eggs. So you really need to be on quarantine alert. They overwinter and the typical house conditions are great for those little buggers.
LUKE - What about moss growing in herbs & houseplant soil? Is that conteolled the same way with vinegar or peroxide solutions? I really appreciate this video and the fungus gnats video. You are so very appreciated! Many Blessings from Deborah in West Virginia!
I used a white vinegar and water solution to remove the mineral and other deposits off of my grow bags. (I did a web search for the ratio, but then just "winged it. lol) After dry brushing off the majority of the dirt and root debris from the grow bags, I put all of them in my top-load washer with warm water and just dumped in about a cup or two of white vinegar. I let it agitate for a couple minutes, then left them to soak for at least 12 hours. Then I let the wash (with rinse) cycle complete. (I did the same process using hydrogen peroxide next, just to "sterilize" them, because some of the plants might have had bacterial or viral diseases) The bags came out looking like new! (it was a mix of 10 - 20 gallon sized bags)
Did Greenstalk send the top water reservoir with your planter? Just curious why you aren't using it. Helps keep from overwatering or having dryout issues.
What are your thoughts on cinnamon? I've heard it from from various people and even have read about it in a few books. I added to the top of my starts last year when I was having trouble with surface mold and it seems to have helped.
I grow lisianthus seedlings, which take 12 to 16 weeks indoors before hardening off. I have read/seen cinnamon as well, but it's a myth per local master gardeners & and extension office. Really, in end mold likes damp surface. Proper ventilation with fans, vermiculite on top soil help along watering when needed.
@@kittiew260 I second this. I've never seen it help with any of my mold problems both as a fix and a preventative, even going as far as to mix a substantial portion of cinnamon into the soil medium itself as a test. A vermiculite layer in combination with bottom watering only when the soil is dry has been the best at producing seedlings without mold in the cells, and with stronger, more rugged plants overall.
I've used Cinnamon for surface mold. Works every time. I have used vinegar with my hydroponics, to adjust my pH in a pinch but it's not for long term. I do spray Peroxide on my cucumbers in my outdoor garden for mold protection. It works well too. I used 1 Tbsp in 1 gallon for that. Sprayed daily, early in the morning. Peroxide didn't damage the leaves either.
That same Hydrogen peroxide mix can also act as a surface treatment if you spritz it on the leaves of tomato plants that begin to get early blight after you plant them outside.
Long winded. Please, summary! Why, benefits, ratio, what to avoid. Please answer questions or we’ll be killing our food. ❤ Does this still fit into the true organic requirements?
Ironically, you had mold on the outside of you fabric pots😂 I get that too, and wonder if it spreads the spores around the house more readily. Just a thought
Those are mineral deposits and salts from water that is carrying nutrients seeping into the fabric then drying over and over and over, it builds up on the outside. They are washed off easily with some water on the outside.
You dust it on the roots (prior to transplant) and your plant forms a symbiotic relationship with the fungi so it can access nutrients in the soil. Theoretically, this fungi helps extend the reach of the plant's roots so it can access nutrients. In exchange, the plant pays out a little bit of sugar. A win/win. The key is depleted soil. If you're using something like purchased bagged soil (I don't really care about which brand) or something that already has NPK in it that isn't in a bag, and you re-apply routinely to replace depleted nutrients, and you compost or do hugelkulture, you probably won't need it, but it might help. I'm all for keeping the growing area full of diversity. the bugs can go mad max style and the best can live and do whatever microbes and fungi like to do in valhalla after they have conquered the others. I'd look up science research articles on this subject. There are tons of these kinds of products and it's always good to understand which type of organism it is. That way you can shop ingredients rather than pay full price for the brand name. After all.. the goal is MORE gardening. We can't waste money on pricey stuff when we have seed packets to buy or drip irrigation or grow lights or fertilizer or any of the other things we want for our little heaven.
Mycorrhizal fungi in theory form a mutualistic/symbiotic relationship with plants. They colonize root cells, but extend into parts of the soil where the plants roots don't reach, like an underground network. These fungi can help access water and phosphorus for the plant, in exchange for carbon and sugar. But infections could theoretically become pathogenic if fungi are still taking carbon & sugars from the plant when the plant doesn't need water or phosphorus in return. Mycorrhizal fungi are also said to help plants resist disease. I believe part of the disease resistance imparted by Mycorrhizal fungi is simply via competition for resources vs other pathogenic microorganisms (similar principle to probiotics like lactobacilli that outcompete pathogenic bacteria). I use a well-draining soil with mycorrhizal fungi in it on my plants that are not tolerant of soggy conditions that I don't water or fertilize often, or with seedlings that are more susceptible to pathogenis like fusarium wilt. But I am still a bit dubious of whether we fully understand all the potential impacts. Important to note, not all plants can benefit from these fungi. Most (~80%) can, but some don't. Notably, brassicas. I have a table that outlines family/genus/species that do & don't benefit, if you're interested. Also important to note, high phosphorus levels can inhibit root colonization, so you will not want to apply a strong NPK with a high middle number for at least a couple weeks afterwards. I'd also question whether the fungi are really still alive and viable when you purchase them. If not, there's probably no harm done, but just wasted money. I'd do a lot of research and decide for yourself.
@@heatherbryant4197 Love your comment. I want that table. Even if it's not applicable, it's interesting. I have a feeling that creating a fungally dominant soil would be more beneficial to plants that live in woodlands.. think blueberry bushes or something like that. But for our veggies? Wouldn't it be simpler to buy a seed for a plant that has been bred to be resistant and then, engage in prevention tactics? I think all the veggies I grow prefer bacterially dominant.. hence lab or throwing "carby" water. Anyway.. loved your comment.
As you talk about stable pH, you blend in a snapshot saying mold can withstand a wide range of pH, down to pH 2. Well I can assure you that a little bit of vinegar in your watering can will never bring your soil down below pH 2
VINEGAR IS ONE THE WORST THING YOU CAN ADD TO YOUR SOIL..... Mix the mold with the top soil and forget about it... If your seedlings are growing in mold, place ventilation and control watering by watering from the bottom and control room humidity with a dehumidifier.
While incandescent is replaced by led and crazy price short life retros, 40 watt appliance will continue to be available in long life incandescent because nothing else can survive inside your oven.
hopefully i didnt miss how much peroxide to use 3 T per gal....water??? loved it kills off the .nats ...!!!!
Great video. I knew about peroxide but not about the vinegar. This video actually taught me more about the mold and how to kill it down low. Thank you. Have a great New Year
This green Stalk needs the watering system to distribute the water appropriately. Inside in the winter it may not need water for weeks with small plants. It should also have soil ALL the way filling the levels so plants are elevated enough to fully get the light. I enjoy your experiment but a little research on the correct Green Stalk setup will set you up for success. I have 4 set up outside in Texas and only need water now about twice a week.
new grower and sub , I just checked on my plants 2 days ago and mold on all of them. I was watching another video on something else to do with gardening and you came up in almost thousands of comments . most were saying how informational you were ,so I decided to check your videos out. first video I seen was this one and I wasn't even looking for the mold problem yet. read my mind and the info you gave definitely helps and I will try it. I am zone 6B in Pennsylvania and trying certain things to see what will grow here and what won't, thank you very much
Did you say how to mix the hydrogen peroxide and I missed it?
That was useful. I do not have mold but I am sure the vinegar trick will work if I ever do. Nice to know it does not kill the plant. So yes, I learned something. Thank you.
Perfect timing! I needed this info badly for my potted lemon plants. Thanks
thanks....
I'm getting moss in my raised VegePod garden. I wonder if this method will work for my situation, especially if I do it before the planting season! Thanks, Luke! Happy New Year, too!
Thankyou Luke, have been struggling with this. MORE PLEASE
I gave up on house plants. Friends had good intentions of offering suckers from small trees outside my zone and sure enough mold bloom in the pot and house. No more house plants. However, I do plan to get starters going early spring for the garden. They should be ok out in the garage until planting and not cause mold problems like the enormous planters that must be transported on moving dollies.
Thanks so much for this. I noticed lots of mold/fungus on my stored soil mix I have in a storage tote outside. The top is always on it so I just took the top off and letting it get some air before I use it to fill my new raised bed.
Thanks, I have been noticing mold on my seedlings soil.
What about moss, that is what I get on my seed starting's. Thank you in advance. God's blessing to you and yours
Use more perlite, ventilation and room temp/humidity control.
Never getting mold in my controlled environment unless I bump the humidity too high.
I also water with ethanol. Works quite well.
What dilution do you use? Thank you
In Florida rain for weeks in the summer ...too much mold in my clay dirt😵💫😵💫😵💫
Hey, I found this video at the perfect time. Def going to try the peroxide today. Thanks
Thank you so much for the awesome advice! I'm in Southern California but it rained a lot last winter & spring so I had fungus gnats that wouldn't go away. And now I'm getting mold for the 1st time. I'm going to try the peroxide & white vinegar this week. Thanks again!
You can use a mix of H2O2 and H2O at 1 part hydrogen peroxide and 4 parts water to kill mold. It even works on fabric bags that can get mold.
It can also damage some of the roots or plant parts but it's a much better alternative to vinegar..
Its a very weak solution. Yes, vinegar can be very dangerous. A safer product is Seachem Acid Buffer (used in aquariums) but you really need to test the pH after adjusting. A little bit makes a big difference. @@Murlockingqc
Thank you!
You do a great job of explaining. Thank you!
What are the dilutions? Vinegar to water? Peroxide to water?
I would guess that water can at 2 gallons and he said 3 tablespoons of vinegar.
Peroxide spray bottle and spray om The soil
I was wondering about the peroxide too. So it’s not diluted?
It is 2 Gallons of water to 3 Tablespoons of vinegar becuase i have the exact same watering can and it is a 2 gallon watering can.
I was missing the amount of hydrogen peroxide too.
Very helpful...yes i have mild on my seedlings pots and i was wondering if this would kill my little plants. They are in my ky little greenhouse.
Doesn't vinegar kill the roots I ask because we use vinegar to kill weeds, or is the diluted version the key.
The vinegar strength is so much stronger to kill weeds!
3% hydrogen peroxide? Dilute with water? Spray on or watering? On seedlings or on top of soil? Thanks!
I believe I saw on another channel that it's 1 part 3% hydrogen Peroxide to 3 parts water.
Just found a comment with the same question he actually answered; 1 cup 3% H2O2 in 1 gallon H2O, so 1:16 hydrogen peroxide to water ratio. I have seen a ratio as strong as 1:4 recommended by others, but for the purposes of treating root rot.
Definitely direct the solution at the soil and not the plants for this one. Try to avoid splashing leaves.
The mold is the food of the gnats. Root tone is also an acid base, so likely safe/
This was very helpful Luke. I really appreciate the detail. 👍🏽👍🏽🥰
How much peroxide to a gallon of water? And thanks for all the info this was really helpful!!
It would be helpful for you to be specific about how much vinegar in how much water. You say 3 tbs but how much water did you have? Does it matter much?
Man... I received a Key Lime plant from a nursery last year that was so badly infested with fungus gnats that the soil was moving from the number of larva moving around. I hit it 4 times that day with hydrogen peroxide right from the bottle (3% strength). Was super concerned I would kill the plant but didnt want the gnats spreading. The next day there was still a significant fraction of them around so I hit them 2x more. That almost got rid of them but the final nail was a tea made from Mosquito Bits. Now I treat all of my plants with mosquito bits tea every couple weeks. (The plant defoliated due to the fungus gnats and my hydrox attack but it sprung back, less a few lower limbs which never recovered probably due to root damage)
Now if I could only find as definitive a fix for spider mites... they keep coming back and no amount of neem oil, dish soap, and isopropyl alcohol mix seems to do the trick for very long. Merp
Thanks for the tips! Mold deep in the soil doesn't bother me any but good thoughts on the vinegar dosing. May come in handy!
Also seems like a great way to treat blueberry seedlings?
spider mites can be handled long term with systematic insecticide - if you dont plan to harvest from your plant in the next 30-90 days.
@@sza2bom Thanks for the suggestion - I'll look into it. Not a huge fan of insecticides but frankly this is starting to drive me crazy so maybe it is time to go with something more significant than neem oil and alcohol.
diatomaceous earth? I bought a bag from a big box and I still have tons of it. It's really powdery and light so dust mask.
The way I do it is very very simple. I bet you could find something similar. I just repurposed a facial powder puff because that kind of powder is equally fine. I dab the puff in the bag and then, manually go over the plant, especially the bottom of the leaves. Because your plant is indoors, you don't have to worry about rain. You'll just have "Casper the house plant".
Another thing would be the insect stickies. If those things can trap a mosquito.. they're going to be tar pits for spider mites.
I'd probably temporarily cover the plant with something like a row cover to trap the mites in the area. Dust with the earth and have stickies near the stem and maybe some sort of flat cover (think paper plate just on top of the soil) . After all, the plant doesn't care if you are covering the soil. All it cares about is light, moisture and food for the most part. We want to control the ingress and egress points. (This is war.)
The BT is a great thing but it does kill some microbial life in the soil. I don't know if you care. I use it for my mulched paths and things like that. It probably isn't a big deal. Just throw new compost or something like that and you'll get all the friendly bugs back.
Good luck in the battle.
@@jenniferhunter4074 Thanks! I use DE for other pest control so I will give it a try with this. I didn't know spider mites access the soil... that is useful to know. The BT is about as far as "scorched earth" as I am willing to go and yeah not super happy with the downsides.
I really appreciate you sharing! Looks like I have more options to explore.
@@gannas42 I thought you said you had fungus gnats as well? But yeah.. spider mites also, at least from what I've read.
The leaf litter could have babies/aka eggs. So you really need to be on quarantine alert. They overwinter and the typical house conditions are great for those little buggers.
Just make sure your medium is half coco, and dry back a little. Use proper air flow. Oscillating Air on the soil.
I went to my Lowe’s last year looking for the coco stuff. Didn’t carry it. Not sure where to get it.
You mention 3T of vinegar, same or different amount for peroxide?
1 gallon of water to 1 cup hydrogen peroxide.
Can I use just plain white vinegre?
I don't have access to destiled vinagre
Great info as always. So helpful. Thank you
Thank you! Great advice 😊
Thanks so much🌸
Thank you Luke. Great info!
Can you use this on ALL plants?
LUKE - What about moss growing in herbs & houseplant soil? Is that conteolled the same way with vinegar or peroxide solutions? I really appreciate this video and the fungus gnats video. You are so very appreciated! Many Blessings from Deborah in West Virginia!
How about with outdoor garden bed ratio of vinegar w water, please?
Here on the west coast of Oregon, you can't use a fan because the plant (s) will mold.
-Use good potting mix (not organic) -Bottom watering;
-H2O2 for surface and bottom mold (soak with diluted solution will do the job)
Great information again! Thank you!
Do you have any tips on washing the crust off of used cloth grow bags? Thanks in advance :)
I used a white vinegar and water solution to remove the mineral and other deposits off of my grow bags. (I did a web search for the ratio, but then just "winged it. lol)
After dry brushing off the majority of the dirt and root debris from the grow bags, I put all of them in my top-load washer with warm water and just dumped in about a cup or two of white vinegar. I let it agitate for a couple minutes, then left them to soak for at least 12 hours. Then I let the wash (with rinse) cycle complete.
(I did the same process using hydrogen peroxide next, just to "sterilize" them, because some of the plants might have had bacterial or viral diseases)
The bags came out looking like new! (it was a mix of 10 - 20 gallon sized bags)
Thanks...I'll give it a try :)@@bluetkats
Silica 👍
Use a VPD chart
Did Greenstalk send the top water reservoir with your planter? Just curious why you aren't using it. Helps keep from overwatering or having dryout issues.
Good info, thanks!
The bubbles from hydrogen peroxide are not carbon dioxide. They are oxygen.
Sprinkle ground cinnamon on surface
What are the ratios for the vibegar? You mentioned 3 tbsp, but didnt say in hiw much water.
fabolus idea.....woo hoo
What are your thoughts on cinnamon? I've heard it from from various people and even have read about it in a few books. I added to the top of my starts last year when I was having trouble with surface mold and it seems to have helped.
I grow lisianthus seedlings, which take 12 to 16 weeks indoors before hardening off.
I have read/seen cinnamon as well, but it's a myth per local master gardeners & and extension office. Really, in end mold likes damp surface. Proper ventilation with fans, vermiculite on top soil help along watering when needed.
@@kittiew260 I second this. I've never seen it help with any of my mold problems both as a fix and a preventative, even going as far as to mix a substantial portion of cinnamon into the soil medium itself as a test. A vermiculite layer in combination with bottom watering only when the soil is dry has been the best at producing seedlings without mold in the cells, and with stronger, more rugged plants overall.
I've used Cinnamon for surface mold. Works every time.
I have used vinegar with my hydroponics, to adjust my pH in a pinch but it's not for long term.
I do spray Peroxide on my cucumbers in my outdoor garden for mold protection. It works well too. I used 1 Tbsp in 1 gallon for that. Sprayed daily, early in the morning. Peroxide didn't damage the leaves either.
@@lidip8700 Great point about the peroxide, I had great luck with it as well
I tried it and I had mold growing on the cinnamon too.
What if you see white kernels UNDER the soil that looks like a fungus? I can’t find ANY info on this 😢
That same Hydrogen peroxide mix can also act as a surface treatment if you spritz it on the leaves of tomato plants that begin to get early blight after you plant them outside.
3tbs of w.vinegar to 1 gal or 2..whatbis the mix ratio?
Everybody that starts their own seeds should see this video. Period.
Does this help tomato blight?
Absolutely! I prefer baking soda though over vinegar.
Can you water with hydrogen peroxide all the time to prevent mold.
How much peroxide ?
Was that 3 Tbsp. vinegar to 1 gallon of water?
Awesome video!!
How much hydrogen peroxide in water?
I thought mold or fungi like slightly acidic conditions.
Grow tower?
How do you apply hydrogen peroxide?
Long winded. Please, summary! Why, benefits, ratio, what to avoid. Please answer questions or we’ll be killing our food. ❤ Does this still fit into the true organic requirements?
If I spray hydrogen peroxide on the soil surface, what happens to the plants if it gets on them?
Ironically, you had mold on the outside of you fabric pots😂 I get that too, and wonder if it spreads the spores around the house more readily. Just a thought
Those are mineral deposits and salts from water that is carrying nutrients seeping into the fabric then drying over and over and over, it builds up on the outside. They are washed off easily with some water on the outside.
Don't you dilute the hydrogen peroxide first?
Yes totally
@@MIgardener But by how much? You gave the formula for vinegar and water but not for the hydrogen peroxide if I may ask?
Idk if i just missed it or not, but i dont think you mentioned how much hydrogen peroxide you mix into the water.
What is the big deal of the ads in Amazon showing a lot of different types of Mycorrhizae, and what are they worth looking into.
You dust it on the roots (prior to transplant) and your plant forms a symbiotic relationship with the fungi so it can access nutrients in the soil.
Theoretically, this fungi helps extend the reach of the plant's roots so it can access nutrients. In exchange, the plant pays out a little bit of sugar. A win/win.
The key is depleted soil. If you're using something like purchased bagged soil (I don't really care about which brand) or something that already has NPK in it that isn't in a bag, and you re-apply routinely to replace depleted nutrients, and you compost or do hugelkulture, you probably won't need it, but it might help. I'm all for keeping the growing area full of diversity. the bugs can go mad max style and the best can live and do whatever microbes and fungi like to do in valhalla after they have conquered the others.
I'd look up science research articles on this subject. There are tons of these kinds of products and it's always good to understand which type of organism it is. That way you can shop ingredients rather than pay full price for the brand name. After all.. the goal is MORE gardening. We can't waste money on pricey stuff when we have seed packets to buy or drip irrigation or grow lights or fertilizer or any of the other things we want for our little heaven.
Mycorrhizal fungi in theory form a mutualistic/symbiotic relationship with plants. They colonize root cells, but extend into parts of the soil where the plants roots don't reach, like an underground network. These fungi can help access water and phosphorus for the plant, in exchange for carbon and sugar. But infections could theoretically become pathogenic if fungi are still taking carbon & sugars from the plant when the plant doesn't need water or phosphorus in return. Mycorrhizal fungi are also said to help plants resist disease. I believe part of the disease resistance imparted by Mycorrhizal fungi is simply via competition for resources vs other pathogenic microorganisms (similar principle to probiotics like lactobacilli that outcompete pathogenic bacteria). I use a well-draining soil with mycorrhizal fungi in it on my plants that are not tolerant of soggy conditions that I don't water or fertilize often, or with seedlings that are more susceptible to pathogenis like fusarium wilt. But I am still a bit dubious of whether we fully understand all the potential impacts.
Important to note, not all plants can benefit from these fungi. Most (~80%) can, but some don't. Notably, brassicas. I have a table that outlines family/genus/species that do & don't benefit, if you're interested.
Also important to note, high phosphorus levels can inhibit root colonization, so you will not want to apply a strong NPK with a high middle number for at least a couple weeks afterwards.
I'd also question whether the fungi are really still alive and viable when you purchase them. If not, there's probably no harm done, but just wasted money.
I'd do a lot of research and decide for yourself.
@@heatherbryant4197 Love your comment. I want that table. Even if it's not applicable, it's interesting.
I have a feeling that creating a fungally dominant soil would be more beneficial to plants that live in woodlands.. think blueberry bushes or something like that. But for our veggies? Wouldn't it be simpler to buy a seed for a plant that has been bred to be resistant and then, engage in prevention tactics? I think all the veggies I grow prefer bacterially dominant.. hence lab or throwing "carby" water.
Anyway.. loved your comment.
As you talk about stable pH, you blend in a snapshot saying mold can withstand a wide range of pH, down to pH 2. Well I can assure you that a little bit of vinegar in your watering can will never bring your soil down below pH 2
VINEGAR IS ONE THE WORST THING YOU CAN ADD TO YOUR SOIL.....
Mix the mold with the top soil and forget about it...
If your seedlings are growing in mold, place ventilation and control watering by watering from the bottom and control room humidity with a dehumidifier.
Great video
Also. Hydrogen peroxide doesn't create carbon dioxide. There is no carbon in there. It produces oxygen
Mould :) daft set up tbh
I used vinegar once in the same measurements and they all(30 starts) died
Are you using 3% or 12% hydrogen peroxide?
40 watt appliance bulb.
While incandescent is replaced by led and crazy price short life retros, 40 watt appliance will continue to be available in long life incandescent because nothing else can survive inside your oven.
Isn't fungus good for your plants though? Just don't keep the soil water logged and it should be fine.
There is only one species that helps plants. The rest hurt.
If you want root rot
I am going to be leaving YT soon due to their bs and plethora of ads. Do you have or will you have a Rumble channel?
What is the dilution of the hydrogen peroxide please?
1 gallon of water to 1 cup of hydrogen peroxide
Fungi can absolutely hurt plants, not directly but they compete for nutrients with the plants.
Fungi doesn’t use nutrients in the soil.
Useful info but way too long winded & repetitive. Please condense.
For the tier planter should have a special soil
Maybe put about 2 inches of pebbles at bottom to drain off excess water???
Hydrogen peroxide generate oxygen, which is bad for fungus, good for plant.
Your going through some changes, I can see; Did you take the shots?
Very western medicine approach. Treat the symptom, not the problem. Too much moisture growing mold isn't cured by adding acidic or alkaline water.
Good information, thank you!
Good info! Thanks much.