Finally, someone who speaks clearly and concisely! So many other videos I have watched have so much jargon in them that I don't understand. You tailored your video so all viewer levels could benefit! Thank you! This was a great video with a lot of valuable information.
Thank you. That means a lot. I really try my best to create something anyone can follow. I wanted to create something for those who struggle with other videos. Greatly appreciate you watching and commenting!
Of all the videos on spare shooting I have watched, this is the most comprehensive and real world applicable covering spares. Great video guys! Subscribed.
Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate how you set up for, and shoot, each spare. I have a system that works for single pin spares (as long as I hit my target arrow - the 4th, moving my feet left or right for the particular pin), but I wasn't sure what to do for splits. I'll try what you suggested (and also write each of the positions down). BTW, I use my weakest reactive ball (a Raw Hammer hybrid) for spares and keep my wrist flat throughout the swing. It still hooks a little, but for single pin spares, I just need to adjust my feet one board left. Eg, left foot on board 28, aiming through the 4th arrow for pins 1 or 5.
Good stuff guys! Nice to hear other peoples thoughts and their reasons why of spare picking. Thanks it's given me a couple of ideas that may help improve my game. Thanks again.
I do the exact same thing to pick up my 10 pins! Stand on 30 & aim between 3rd and 4th arrow. In addition to the ball return getting in the way, I also find it less stressful than going completely across the lane (ex: standing on 35 or 40 and aiming at 4th arrow). I have some depth perception issues, and the 4th arrow always looks like it's a mile away from me, so I have difficulty hitting it accurately. I also use the 3rd arrow for my left side spares.
I just started bowling this year and had my first PSO drill a ball badly. It caused severe injuries to my hand and wrist. I've been playing since January in pain, throwing underhanded. I'm seeing a surgeon next week. Recently, I went to a different PSO who drilled correctly and told me to throw suitcase release. Wow! It has been way easier, more accurate, and more consistent. I'm left-handed and struggle badly to hit the 10 pin spare, but I can almost always hit the 7 pin. It's just weird. Lol.
Sorry to hear about that issue with the bad drilling and pain. The suitcase release is the smoothest and easiest to start with. I always start the people I coach who are new with that, and gradually move them into more advanced releases. So definitely keep up the suitcase and get comfortable, and over time, you can start to introduce more advanced technique. As for 10s for a lefty, are you hooking at them or throwing straight? Either way, or just takes practice in finding your spot to stand and throw. With a straight release or a spare ball, you can throw the same place regardless of lane conditions. With a hook, you may have to adjust week by week based on how the lanes are breaking down, but on a house shot, you usually have a little bit of miss room to play with hooking it. Either way, just takes practice. Good luck.
@baldbrothersbowling I've always thrown at spares underhanded. I have tried suitcase release here lately and am surprised by how much more accurate it is at the spare pins. I still seem to end up in the gutter about 4 to 6 feet before the 10 pin whenever I miss. I am starting to find that if I aim to the left of the 10 pin with suitcase and increase my speed, I have a higher chance of getting to it before the ball tries to hook. Underhanded it goes straight, but I still can end up short.
Question: if I have to wear a wrist support due to injury, and use a fingertip grip with inserts, how would I implement your technique of thumb and fingers exiting simultaneously? To me, it seems that the support would interfere with that. The only sure way I can think of, is to drill the fingers conventionally, which will cause thumb and fingers to exist at the same time. I’m interested in your thoughts on this, please.
That does make it tougher. Your fingers won't exit at the same time, but you can still work on relaxing the fingers and the ball won't roll off the hand as much. They will be closer to the same time. You will likely want to use a plastic ball as it will still rotate a little, but you can cut down the revs by relaxing the fingers, and it should be few enough revs that a plastic ball won't hook much. You just have to really focus on opening your hand and fingers, almost like you are holding a bird, and then opening the fingers to let the bird go. I hope that helps.
I had to change from a plastic ball that goes dead straight when shooting spares to a weaker resin reactive with a little bit of hook. I just could not be successful with a ball that goes dead straight. I worked on it a ton and finally gave up. When I made the change, my spare percentage went up significantly. It especially helped with corner pins. I tend to leave far more corner pins than any other spares. I leave alot of 10 pins and I hated them. I have no problem with them now. Different strokes for different folks.
What do you recommend for the wrist brace using bowler? Should they remove the support because it won't allow them to roll a straight ball? Also, you speak of the benefit of the fingers and thumbs exiting simultaneously. This happens automatically with a conventional grip, but not with a fingertip one. Should a spare ball therefore be drilled with a conventional grip to ensure that fingers and thumb exit quickly and together? frip
Sorry, I missed the last part of your question. It is easier to throw a conventional grip ball straight, but may be harder to change grips back and forth. So that part is personal preference.
@@baldbrothersbowling Thank you...what about the removing the wrist brace for spares question? On one hand, I find that doing so increases my ball speed by 2-3mph without intentionally trying to do so, which could negatively affect my timing. But on the other hand, even with an adjustable support dialed all the way down to 0 cup and 0 cocked wrist, just wearing something that doesn't allow your wrist to break backward, can cause even a plastic ball to hook.
@@joehoenig7596 for some reason, my other reply didn't post. When I coach any kids who wear a brace, I do have them remove it for spares. It is easier to relax the wrist and deaden the hook. Increased speed also helps, but regarding timing, just do a lot of practice at spares and you can get your timing to match up closely to your first ball.
Out of indignance and my best bowling buddy moving, I started to shoot a backup ball at my spares. Even shooting straight at my 10 pins im maybe a 40% spare conversion rate
A backup can work just fine. Just need practice for consistency, and a strategy for targeting and moves based on what the spare is. Keep at it. Thanks for watching.
I don’t know if it’s a good thing or a bad thing. For me it’s very easy to throw straight and it is frustrating when everyone says “it’s easy for hooks the ball but hard to flatten the ball “ I can throw straight very easily but I can’t hook the ball and when I try going inside the ball I throw back up ball 😢
It sounds like if the ball backs up you are inside the ball even at release. The big key is how you turn the hand and roll it off your hand, without coming over the top and spinning it. Watch my video on the importance of the thumb, specifically part 2. In this I talk about how you use your thumb to rotate your hand around the ball. I also released a Spiral technique video that might help. Give those a try and see if they help you hook the ball. Good luck, and let me know if you have more questions.
I am not sure what the 3:30 is referencing above as the 3:30 mark in the video is just me throwing the ball. To address your comment of speaking to left-handers, the first half of the video applies either way as we are talking just about hand positions and how to throw it. The teaching is not different based on hand. The 2nd half I refer to boards, marks, and pins. Most of it you just have to flip, so if I say I am throwing at a 10, it would be a 7 for you. If I say a 6-10, that is a 4-7 for you. As for the boards I line-up and aim at, I said first you have to pick what board you stand on and aim at for a 10 (or in your case a 7). When I say I stand 31 and throw at 17.5, that is just what I do, and is not what I am saying you must do. I drift, I throw it differently, and there are other factors that determine what board you stand on and throw at. The point of the video is not to focus on where I am standing and aiming, but what the moves are. So if you stand 42 and aim at 25 to pick up a corner pin vs. my 31 and 17.5, then you go off of 42 and 25. The move is still the same. I said I move 1-board right if the 6-pin is with the 10. If you stand 42, it still 1 board right. If you are left handed, you just flip it. Pick your start and aiming point for the 7, and then if you leave a 4 pin with the 7, you move 1 left with your feet, same target, and you'll cover the 4-7. So essentially, all you have to do is flip the pins (10 becomes 7, 6-10 is 4-7, 3-6-10 is 2-4-7, etc.), and then when I say 1 right or 2 right, it would be 1 left or 2 left for you. As for the actual starting point and target, you have to play around with where you start and where you aim, and write that down. This becomes the basis for the other spares, whatever it is for you. Ideally, you do want to go across the lane as much as you are comfortable going. I don't know if there is something else you had a question on, but hopefully that helps you convert it in your mind. Let me know if you have a specific question.
I generally have a 2nd piece wrapped around the wrist, but forgot to add it. I got distracted setting up the cameras. The 1 piece alone isn't doing much, but both actually have a HUGE impact for my arthritis in my wrist.
Finally, someone who speaks clearly and concisely! So many other videos I have watched have so much jargon in them that I don't understand. You tailored your video so all viewer levels could benefit! Thank you! This was a great video with a lot of valuable information.
Thank you. That means a lot. I really try my best to create something anyone can follow. I wanted to create something for those who struggle with other videos. Greatly appreciate you watching and commenting!
I can't wait to go practice this! Thanks for the tips and guidance!
Absolutely. Let us know how it goes.
Of all the videos on spare shooting I have watched, this is the most comprehensive and real world applicable covering spares. Great video guys! Subscribed.
We appreciate that! Thank you for subscribing.
good info. I still struggle being consistent throwing it straight. Gonna try the suitcase grip. thanks
Remember to release the fingers, don't lift. Do that and you should find some success. Thanks for watching.
Best tutorial on spare shooting
Appreciate that.
Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate how you set up for, and shoot, each spare. I have a system that works for single pin spares (as long as I hit my target arrow - the 4th, moving my feet left or right for the particular pin), but I wasn't sure what to do for splits. I'll try what you suggested (and also write each of the positions down). BTW, I use my weakest reactive ball (a Raw Hammer hybrid) for spares and keep my wrist flat throughout the swing. It still hooks a little, but for single pin spares, I just need to adjust my feet one board left. Eg, left foot on board 28, aiming through the 4th arrow for pins 1 or 5.
Good stuff guys! Nice to hear other peoples thoughts and their reasons why of spare picking. Thanks it's given me a couple of ideas that may help improve my game. Thanks again.
Thanks again for watching. Glad we could provide some extra ways to experiment with.
Great tips to help you improve your spare game!
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
I do the exact same thing to pick up my 10 pins! Stand on 30 & aim between 3rd and 4th arrow. In addition to the ball return getting in the way, I also find it less stressful than going completely across the lane (ex: standing on 35 or 40 and aiming at 4th arrow). I have some depth perception issues, and the 4th arrow always looks like it's a mile away from me, so I have difficulty hitting it accurately. I also use the 3rd arrow for my left side spares.
Thanks for watching, and for sharing.
Great info. Thanks so much!
I just started bowling this year and had my first PSO drill a ball badly. It caused severe injuries to my hand and wrist. I've been playing since January in pain, throwing underhanded. I'm seeing a surgeon next week. Recently, I went to a different PSO who drilled correctly and told me to throw suitcase release. Wow! It has been way easier, more accurate, and more consistent. I'm left-handed and struggle badly to hit the 10 pin spare, but I can almost always hit the 7 pin. It's just weird. Lol.
Sorry to hear about that issue with the bad drilling and pain. The suitcase release is the smoothest and easiest to start with. I always start the people I coach who are new with that, and gradually move them into more advanced releases. So definitely keep up the suitcase and get comfortable, and over time, you can start to introduce more advanced technique. As for 10s for a lefty, are you hooking at them or throwing straight? Either way, or just takes practice in finding your spot to stand and throw. With a straight release or a spare ball, you can throw the same place regardless of lane conditions. With a hook, you may have to adjust week by week based on how the lanes are breaking down, but on a house shot, you usually have a little bit of miss room to play with hooking it. Either way, just takes practice. Good luck.
@baldbrothersbowling I've always thrown at spares underhanded. I have tried suitcase release here lately and am surprised by how much more accurate it is at the spare pins. I still seem to end up in the gutter about 4 to 6 feet before the 10 pin whenever I miss. I am starting to find that if I aim to the left of the 10 pin with suitcase and increase my speed, I have a higher chance of getting to it before the ball tries to hook. Underhanded it goes straight, but I still can end up short.
Question: if I have to wear a wrist support due to injury, and use a fingertip grip with inserts, how would I implement your technique of thumb and fingers exiting simultaneously? To me, it seems that the support would interfere with that. The only sure way I can think of, is to drill the fingers conventionally, which will cause thumb and fingers to exist at the same time.
I’m interested in your thoughts on this, please.
That does make it tougher. Your fingers won't exit at the same time, but you can still work on relaxing the fingers and the ball won't roll off the hand as much. They will be closer to the same time. You will likely want to use a plastic ball as it will still rotate a little, but you can cut down the revs by relaxing the fingers, and it should be few enough revs that a plastic ball won't hook much. You just have to really focus on opening your hand and fingers, almost like you are holding a bird, and then opening the fingers to let the bird go. I hope that helps.
I had to change from a plastic ball that goes dead straight when shooting spares to a weaker resin reactive with a little bit of hook. I just could not be successful with a ball that goes dead straight. I worked on it a ton and finally gave up. When I made the change, my spare percentage went up significantly. It especially helped with corner pins. I tend to leave far more corner pins than any other spares. I leave alot of 10 pins and I hated them. I have no problem with them now. Different strokes for different folks.
Exactly, everyone needs to do what is most comfortable for them. Glad you found what works for you.
@@baldbrothersbowling Just so you know. You all do a great job. I am a fan of your channel. 👍
@@lonestarpatriot876Appreciate that
What do you recommend for the wrist brace using bowler? Should they remove the support because it won't allow them to roll a straight ball?
Also, you speak of the benefit of the fingers and thumbs exiting simultaneously. This happens automatically with a conventional grip, but not with a fingertip one. Should a spare ball therefore be drilled with a conventional grip
to ensure that fingers and thumb exit quickly and together?
frip
Sorry, I missed the last part of your question. It is easier to throw a conventional grip ball straight, but may be harder to change grips back and forth. So that part is personal preference.
@@baldbrothersbowling Thank you...what about the removing the wrist brace for spares question? On one hand, I find that doing so increases my ball speed by 2-3mph without intentionally trying to do so, which could negatively affect my timing. But on the other hand, even with an adjustable support dialed
all the way down to 0 cup and 0 cocked wrist, just wearing something that doesn't allow your wrist to break backward, can cause even a plastic ball to hook.
@@joehoenig7596 for some reason, my other reply didn't post. When I coach any kids who wear a brace, I do have them remove it for spares. It is easier to relax the wrist and deaden the hook. Increased speed also helps, but regarding timing, just do a lot of practice at spares and you can get your timing to match up closely to your first ball.
@@baldbrothersbowling thank you
Out of indignance and my best bowling buddy moving, I started to shoot a backup ball at my spares. Even shooting straight at my 10 pins im maybe a 40% spare conversion rate
A backup can work just fine. Just need practice for consistency, and a strategy for targeting and moves based on what the spare is. Keep at it. Thanks for watching.
I don’t know if it’s a good thing or a bad thing.
For me it’s very easy to throw straight and it is frustrating when everyone says “it’s easy for hooks the ball but hard to flatten the ball “
I can throw straight very easily but I can’t hook the ball and when I try going inside the ball I throw back up ball 😢
It sounds like if the ball backs up you are inside the ball even at release. The big key is how you turn the hand and roll it off your hand, without coming over the top and spinning it. Watch my video on the importance of the thumb, specifically part 2. In this I talk about how you use your thumb to rotate your hand around the ball. I also released a Spiral technique video that might help. Give those a try and see if they help you hook the ball. Good luck, and let me know if you have more questions.
Why not speak to left-handed bowlers.
Does it change for lefties vs. righties when it comes to throwing straight at spares or hooking at them? Just reverse the advice.
Speak to left-handed bowlers
Speak to left-handed bowlers. 3:30 3:30 3:30
I am not sure what the 3:30 is referencing above as the 3:30 mark in the video is just me throwing the ball. To address your comment of speaking to left-handers, the first half of the video applies either way as we are talking just about hand positions and how to throw it. The teaching is not different based on hand. The 2nd half I refer to boards, marks, and pins. Most of it you just have to flip, so if I say I am throwing at a 10, it would be a 7 for you. If I say a 6-10, that is a 4-7 for you. As for the boards I line-up and aim at, I said first you have to pick what board you stand on and aim at for a 10 (or in your case a 7). When I say I stand 31 and throw at 17.5, that is just what I do, and is not what I am saying you must do. I drift, I throw it differently, and there are other factors that determine what board you stand on and throw at. The point of the video is not to focus on where I am standing and aiming, but what the moves are. So if you stand 42 and aim at 25 to pick up a corner pin vs. my 31 and 17.5, then you go off of 42 and 25. The move is still the same. I said I move 1-board right if the 6-pin is with the 10. If you stand 42, it still 1 board right. If you are left handed, you just flip it. Pick your start and aiming point for the 7, and then if you leave a 4 pin with the 7, you move 1 left with your feet, same target, and you'll cover the 4-7. So essentially, all you have to do is flip the pins (10 becomes 7, 6-10 is 4-7, 3-6-10 is 2-4-7, etc.), and then when I say 1 right or 2 right, it would be 1 left or 2 left for you. As for the actual starting point and target, you have to play around with where you start and where you aim, and write that down. This becomes the basis for the other spares, whatever it is for you. Ideally, you do want to go across the lane as much as you are comfortable going. I don't know if there is something else you had a question on, but hopefully that helps you convert it in your mind. Let me know if you have a specific question.
Wearing useless k tape...
I generally have a 2nd piece wrapped around the wrist, but forgot to add it. I got distracted setting up the cameras. The 1 piece alone isn't doing much, but both actually have a HUGE impact for my arthritis in my wrist.