To clarify: if you do this to your car without touching the idle screw, it will idle high normally, around the 1500rpm mark, however on cold starts it might want to stall for a minute or two. This can be countered with gentle throttle input for 1 minute, and then your car will happily hold an idle at 1500rpm, which is fine. If you adjust the idle down like I have, down to 1000rpm, your car will still idle fine when it’s warm, however if the air con is on it’ll drop to 600rpm which is bad. You will still need to give gentle throttle input for a minute when the car is cold. Also apologies for the portrait format, wasn’t thinking when I filmed this lol
Thanks for the info ...i changed my 1gfe TB and now at cold start the rpm is below 1000 rpm around 200 .... after giving it gentle throttle for a min it gets to 900rpm ... is this a problem?
@@RP-zo1tz it is kind of ECU controlled but doing this mod removes that capability, but you can still manually adjust the idle with two small Allen key screws directly under where the throttle cable mounts to the throttle body
@toughie2722 I did the mod, it feels great when driving. But a few problems occurred; free revving above 4000rpm while stationary means the engine will just shut off instantly, and warm idle is a bit high at 2000rpm. What exactly is the difference between the 2 screws you showed? And on average how much turning adjustments do they need to achieve a 1100rpm warm idle like yours?
@@r34bryan sorry for the late reply, the screws will need a bit of trial and error to get it right, you’ll need to play with them with the car on. I’ve heard that if the car is dying when it revs over 4000rpm then you’ll need to cut the metal rod and ziptie the springs at fully open, then plug in the black plug at the back. Some cars work fine with my way, others seem to have issues. You might be able to get away with just plugging the black plug in and not cutting the rod or ziptying anything. Will need to give it a crack and let me know!
Amazing, worked a treat, awesome how much you can achieve without a camera in ya 2nd hand haha. Na really, thanks heaps for that. Reminder to put all the airbox back on before test driving. I was able to go to redline without any cutting out and yeah it’s nice and stabby on the throttle, downshift rev match is finally possible! Thanks toughie.
@@shermyt3923 yes I believe so, they act as a stopper for the pulley, so you can adjust how much the butterfly valve is open or closed when your foot is off the throttle. More open = higher idle, fully closed = stalls out
I’m still puzzled why my 86,000 km car that I’ve owned from new goes so hard.. it’s a manual .. I don’t have the throttle body issues everybody else has .. mine has been fast from new .. I sold more new is200 than anyone in Australia and they did vary greatly 👌💪
There’s nothing wrong with the stock throttle body, it’s just that this mod makes it more direct and responsive and also allows full power in lower gears. Stock throttle body is designed for comfortable acceleration
@@toughie2722 which mine has never done.. most IS are driven badly from new .. I had mine on th3 track at 6 months old ..only thing that makes it occasionally sluggish is traction control.. which is easily turned off .. it has to be ecu mapping from factory..for some reason mine escaped dull response
@@adamgilesconcoursdelegance9302 pretty sure you’re unable to map the ECU on these without something like an Altezza link. They’re definitely all sluggish even with this mod done, need a turbo to fix that up. Would recommend doing this mod though to see the difference definitely
@@adamgilesconcoursdelegance9302 not truing to offend you, but you're on crack or somethin? Nonsense bullshit u just said about the is200, u have 0 knoledge bout this car XDDD
@@toughie2722 I’ll have a look just not sure how it’d affect my boost seeing as it’s controlled off the cable g going from the throttle body back to the bypass valve (keep in mind I’m learning as I go I could be wrong 😂)
You need to cut the metal that joins the motor to the cable and then zip tie the rear springs fully open and then plug in that rear black plug. Leave the white one off
@@muscat0 I didn’t want to do that to mine because that’s not reversible, but I’ve heard that way works too. This way worked fine for me, some people have issues, others it works fine. Not sure why it differs, could be a computer thing depending on the model year. Glad yours is working good now too
To clarify: if you do this to your car without touching the idle screw, it will idle high normally, around the 1500rpm mark, however on cold starts it might want to stall for a minute or two. This can be countered with gentle throttle input for 1 minute, and then your car will happily hold an idle at 1500rpm, which is fine.
If you adjust the idle down like I have, down to 1000rpm, your car will still idle fine when it’s warm, however if the air con is on it’ll drop to 600rpm which is bad. You will still need to give gentle throttle input for a minute when the car is cold.
Also apologies for the portrait format, wasn’t thinking when I filmed this lol
Thanks for the info ...i changed my 1gfe TB and now at cold start the rpm is below 1000 rpm around 200 .... after giving it gentle throttle for a min it gets to 900rpm ... is this a problem?
@@omerkhan5869 nah that’s normal, you can adjust the idle with the little Allen key screw if it bothers you but it shouldn’t be a problem
@@toughie2722 thank you❤️
@@toughie2722were on the throttle body is this allen key? From what i know the is200 idle is ECU regulated
@@RP-zo1tz it is kind of ECU controlled but doing this mod removes that capability, but you can still manually adjust the idle with two small Allen key screws directly under where the throttle cable mounts to the throttle body
Thank you for this been looking forever for the proped method evry one said mg car would explode and i would die... Subbed.
Glad i could help!
Perfect video. I got an IS200 recently and I hate how the throttle feels and how slow the response is. I will be trying this out soon. Thanks a lot!
@toughie2722 I did the mod, it feels great when driving. But a few problems occurred; free revving above 4000rpm while stationary means the engine will just shut off instantly, and warm idle is a bit high at 2000rpm. What exactly is the difference between the 2 screws you showed? And on average how much turning adjustments do they need to achieve a 1100rpm warm idle like yours?
@@r34bryan sorry for the late reply, the screws will need a bit of trial and error to get it right, you’ll need to play with them with the car on.
I’ve heard that if the car is dying when it revs over 4000rpm then you’ll need to cut the metal rod and ziptie the springs at fully open, then plug in the black plug at the back. Some cars work fine with my way, others seem to have issues. You might be able to get away with just plugging the black plug in and not cutting the rod or ziptying anything. Will need to give it a crack and let me know!
Amazing, worked a treat, awesome how much you can achieve without a camera in ya 2nd hand haha. Na really, thanks heaps for that.
Reminder to put all the airbox back on before test driving. I was able to go to redline without any cutting out and yeah it’s nice and stabby on the throttle, downshift rev match is finally possible!
Thanks toughie.
Awesome! Glad to hear it’s working for ya
Hey man just a quick question what’s the reason for disconnecting the those rear springs
Hey mate, its just to make the throttle pedal a little more responsive. the difference is minimal but enough to notice
Hi mate, I did what was shown in the video but my car cuts out at 4000rpm, did you know what would be causing this?
Did you disconnect the correct plugs? Also make sure the springs on that rear pulley are disconnected
Update?
Which bolt is the idle screw?
Is it the two with the white marking on it?
@@shermyt3923 yes I believe so, they act as a stopper for the pulley, so you can adjust how much the butterfly valve is open or closed when your foot is off the throttle. More open = higher idle, fully closed = stalls out
@ thanks a lot bro
@toughie2722 What yrar is yours ?
I’m still puzzled why my 86,000 km car that I’ve owned from new goes so hard.. it’s a manual .. I don’t have the throttle body issues everybody else has .. mine has been fast from new .. I sold more new is200 than anyone in Australia and they did vary greatly 👌💪
There’s nothing wrong with the stock throttle body, it’s just that this mod makes it more direct and responsive and also allows full power in lower gears. Stock throttle body is designed for comfortable acceleration
@@toughie2722 which mine has never done.. most IS are driven badly from new .. I had mine on th3 track at 6 months old ..only thing that makes it occasionally sluggish is traction control.. which is easily turned off .. it has to be ecu mapping from factory..for some reason mine escaped dull response
@@adamgilesconcoursdelegance9302 pretty sure you’re unable to map the ECU on these without something like an Altezza link. They’re definitely all sluggish even with this mod done, need a turbo to fix that up. Would recommend doing this mod though to see the difference definitely
@@adamgilesconcoursdelegance9302 not truing to offend you, but you're on crack or somethin? Nonsense bullshit u just said about the is200, u have 0 knoledge bout this car XDDD
@@toughie2722 Ignore him, awesome video
Has anyone tried this with a supercharged 1gfe thinking of doing it to mine
Yeah I’ve seen it work quite well, pretty sure bennys custom works on RUclips did it on his one
@@toughie2722 I’ll have a look just not sure how it’d affect my boost seeing as it’s controlled off the cable g going from the throttle body back to the bypass valve (keep in mind I’m learning as I go I could be wrong 😂)
will cruise control still work?
@@tonylam8709 I believe so yes
I have a non etcsi throttle body off of a gx100 (1gfe vvti) if you want to buy
woahh
@@xo._.marcus741 do you want it?
@@serialtenis this from a chaser
@@xo._.marcus741 yeah mine is from a chaser
@@serialtendo i have to fuck with anything or is it just bolt on and go
Engine dies at 4000 rpm. What else need to be done
Do you have an auto? I’m not entirely sure how it works on autos.
Also make sure you’ve unplugged the correct plugs at the back of the throttle body
@@toughie2722also just done this mod and engine turns off at the 4k mark aswell 😢 manual
@@muscat0 have you unplugged those two plugs on the back of the throttle body? That’s most likely what is causing it
You need to cut the metal that joins the motor to the cable and then zip tie the rear springs fully open and then plug in that rear black plug. Leave the white one off
@@muscat0 I didn’t want to do that to mine because that’s not reversible, but I’ve heard that way works too. This way worked fine for me, some people have issues, others it works fine. Not sure why it differs, could be a computer thing depending on the model year.
Glad yours is working good now too