3D Printed PLA and Concrete Counterweight
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
Mobile Rolling Base: amzn.to/3XjRvCs
Black PLA: amzn.to/3ALuDnZ
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
Other music used is "Time" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Time
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
concrete
FDM
weight
heavy
pour
mold
functional
print
fpf
PLA
Couldn't the wheeled cart be flipped around so the fixed wheels are at the other end? The spinning wheels stick put a lot furthur to give support. Love seeing all of these functional prints. Very inspiring.
righttt there were so many easier way of solving this
Doh!
Thought the same thing
I also though you could just make the frame longer since it's adjustable and just run a block in the extra space.
The load doesn't ride on the wheels on the other end in use. When stationary, they lift up, and it drops down on the rubber feet that are only about 1" closer to the edge than the fixed wheels. The real reason though, is usability. I talk a lot in these videos, and I often still manage to miss key points I considered before starting the camera. The "steering" end of the base (the swivel wheels) makes the most sense to have on the end of the saw where the handle is located to grab and pull it around. I initially had it the other way around, and it was quite awkward trying to pull it from the motor housing, especially over small bumps.
I 3-D printed a simple box to use as a mold for one of my wife’s projects. She wanted it to look like a rock. So I found a rock on printable that had a semi-flat side, did some manipulation in the slicer so that the box had the rock texture on the inside. Ripping it apart after the concrete set was not fun but the end result looked exactly how she wanted it.
consumer products don't last because they don't have this guy working for them... I love how much thought you put into fixing such a problem... Great Video!!!
Fantastic idea setting the mold into the water.
You could also move the back wheels further back . . . . . . Just a thought.
Did you account for the weight of the full coolant tank as well? If not, I would like to see you fill the coolant container and then try your tip test again. No, I don't expect you to take out the concrete first.
Yeah it seems like the coolant tank is the counter balance
It will certainly help, but at 2 gallons capacity, that's only about 16lbs, and it's mid-point is half the distance from the fulcrum, so it'll yield about 8 lbs of effective counterweight vs the 52 lbs from the concrete weight.
I would have thought you could fill it with sand after it was in place. With the holes, it would have filled all sections. Then if you needed to remove it, you shopvac out the sand and reuse it.
Came here to say the same thing.
I considered it. It's nearly as dense as concrete. I just have an intense hatred for rogue sand around the shop.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Fair enough ... completely understand
From my experiments with PLA, it takes up to 6 walls before it ends up reliably watertight. Given that, it's no surprise water leaked into the infill.
Don’t add more weight, just flip the cart around 180 degrees so the steering wheels are in the rear. You are putting more stress on the base.
The load doesn't ride on the wheels on the other end in use. When stationary, they lift up, and it drops down on the rubber feet that are only about 1" closer to the edge than the fixed wheels. The real reason though, is usability. I talk a lot in these videos, and I often still manage to miss key points I considered before starting the camera. The "steering" end of the base (the swivel wheels) makes the most sense to have on the end of the saw where the handle is located to grab and pull it around. I initially had it the other way around, and it was quite awkward trying to pull it from the motor housing, especially over small bumps.
I loved this video! The king of "functional! Two things: If you did this again, I'd just use clamps on the outside to (gently) prevent any bulging. Next, you gotta go the extra mile and print a drop in lid to cover up the concrete!
21:27 starts the funniest part of your video! Man, you sure can work fast 😂😂
you should see how fluffy my scrambled eggs are :P
I had the same problem, but I was in a hurry and "temporarily" hung a big chunk of railroad track off the light end with a chain about 15 years ago. It's still there.
Nothing is more permanent than a temporary solution.
I figured you were going to place the box and pour the concrete in-situ, but that works too :) The important force is the force applied at the cutting location (top of the "table"). So you can figure it out with three measurements - the weight of the new concrete counter weight (52 lbs), the distance from the wheel axle to the center of the counterweight and the distance from the wheel axel to the cutting point. It looks like the counterweight center of mass is about twice the distance from the axle as the table, so you should be good up to about 100lbs cutting "push" force. If you are pushing that hard, its time to replace the blade. And as a few people pointed out, the cooling tank will be good for some additional counterweight.
Lead is heavier than concrete!
Uranium is heavier than lead!
According to Google (I suppose I can't trust them anymore but I am still used to checking there) even sand is heavier.
and then which google search do you trust, lol, my quick searching showed that the specific gravity of sand is 2.6 - 2.7 and that of cement is 3.14 - 3.15
Go to a shooting range and pick up some scrap lead. Wheel weights are ok too. Much more dense than concrete.
Never thought about scavenging lead from a range. That's a great idea.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday It's a fairly common thing - people melt it down to make new bullets. If it is a commercial range, they may well harvest the lead themselves for profit. Can't hurt to ask.
3:40 you'd be surprised how barely moving the fulcrum dramatically changes things, especially with how tall that thing is.
fair point
Speaking of fulcrum, the mechanical advantage at the cutting surface would be significantly less than at the top of the saw. Not saying it eliminates the issue, but the 10lbs? of force at the top of the saw would be, I'm guessing, 40ish at the blade.
Instead of the weight though, I would probably just go with outriggers to the tippy side with screw down feet similar to the ones already at the other end. If the 1 1/2 inch forward made it more stable, even the smallest feet off the back side would be enormously stable, and unweight the wheels making it even more stationary.
@@dougsholly9323 agreed, I cover this a bit at the 31-minute mark: ruclips.net/video/qO34sCq4CEg/видео.html
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Oh, you sure did. I apologize. I gave up a bit early.
@@dougsholly9323 yeh, I talk too much :P
If the goal is use in vertical and the table is attached just add an adjustable leg attached to the rear and swings out during vertical operations. (Think cabinet door attached to the rear, open when in use)
CANT WAIT FOR THE MOPA HUAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Build a cantilever that bolts onto the bottom of the heavy end using the holes at the bottom.
You should have added to the controversy and dry poured the concrete. That alone would have increased the number of views and comments by 10 fold 😂.
Should have just put a foot on the motor end.
We had a similar bandsaw in a workshop, a rubbish thing really. One of my fitters brought the carriage up too fast and it tipped right over backwards, spilled coolant everywhere and snapped off a piece of casting. Fortunately no one was injured, other than his pride. It gave me the opportunity to buy another saw, I found a refurbished German saw who's make eludes me now, but I think it was only 50% more expensive than a new chinese replacement. Far better machine, far better value for money.
Chinese crap is just there for that initial purchase until you realize you should have spent more money in the first place.
I've been really happy with the Taiwanese imports from Precision Matthews. Far above the quality from China at only about twice the price vs 5-10x the price of the EU, US, or Japanese stuff.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I've never seen any machines that I can guarantee come from Taiwan in the UK, other than a couple of lathes. We don’t have a supplier like Precision Matthews who do sort of duplicate ranges of cheaper chinese or more expensive Taiwanese machines.
Adding dumbbell weights could help out a lot
Now you will have to print a cover cap to get rid of the concrete look
thought about it, but you can't see it, so I'll probably leave it as-is
You accidentally got it right. The water outside balanced the pressure that could cause the mould to bow out.
Did you fill the coolant tank first? I reckon that would have weighed at least 20kg.
It will certainly help, but at 2 gallons capacity, that's only about 16lbs, and it's mid-point is half the distance from the fulcrum, so it'll yield about 8 lbs of effective counterweight vs the 52 lbs from the concrete weight.
Dude, this is a WAY overengineered solution. All you had to do was one of 2 things.
1. Flip the mobile base around so the swivel casters (which are on the very end) are on the pivoting side of the saw.
2. Extend the mobile base a few inches on the pivot side of the saw and add a "stop" to prevent the saw sliding in the base. This would be the case if you didn't want the swivel casters on the back side.
Either solution would have worked, and taken a whole lot less time and energy than that concrete weight box.
The load doesn't ride on the wheels on the other end in use. When stationary, they lift up, and it drops down on the rubber feet that are only about 1" closer to the edge than the fixed wheels. The real reason though, is usability. I talk a lot in these videos, and I often still manage to miss key points I considered before starting the camera. The "steering" end of the base (the swivel wheels) makes the most sense to have on the end of the saw where the handle is located to grab and pull it around. I initially had it the other way around, and it was quite awkward trying to pull it from the motor housing, especially over small bumps.
Would like to see the results with the coolant tank full, should sdd quite a few more pounds
It will certainly help, but at 2 gallons capacity, that's only about 16lbs, and it's mid-point is half the distance from the fulcrum, so it'll yield about 8 lbs of effective counterweight vs the 52 lbs from the concrete weight.
Check out Chris borge, he has used concrete in a few functional prints
thx, I will
you could use a bigger nozzle in that printer
yeh, I'm just too lazy to make a new profile. I really hope Bambu comes out with a large format machine soon. I'm tired of all the issues with that N4Max
First thing you should do is fill the coolant tank
xtool all the way.. i own both.. so nice.... using right now for crazy pow and usaf logos that take 6+ hours but they turn out Amazing ..
The xtool looks like a really nice machine, but's it's not MOPA, just q-switch. I'm really excited to see how much of a difference it makes for marking plastics. I've gotten awesome marking so far with the MOPA machine (JPT M7 source)
Even just a bag of sand would have worked. But still great job.
agreed, I just didn't like the risk of sand dumped all over in the future
For my taste it's missing a handle or a cutout for handling.
I thought about it , but I hope to never touch it again (famous last words) :)
I love watching the functional prints you come up with! I may have missed it but was there a reason you went concrete over just leaving it filled with sand or another loose material?
Probably to avoid it spilling out, having to make some sort of lid that will eventually break.
Get some lead bar and put it on top of concrete
Easy solution: Put the castered 'outrigger' on the other end - i.e. turn the saw 180 degrees on the bottom wheeled frame. /facepalm for finding the most complicated and Rube Goldberg solution.
The load doesn't ride on the wheels on the other end in use. When stationary, they lift up, and it drops down on the rubber feet that are only about 1" closer to the edge than the fixed wheels. The real reason though, is usability. I talk a lot in these videos, and I often still manage to miss key points I considered before starting the camera. The "steering" end of the base (the swivel wheels) makes the most sense to have on the end of the saw where the handle is located to grab and pull it around. I initially had it other other way around, and it was quite awkward trying to pull it from the motor housing, especially over small bumps.
metal could of been better for wight but it a good wight
I wonder if the water pressure helped keep the plastic from bulging under the weight of the concrete
If it ever heated up enough, that wouldn't have hurt.
I think so. Water is considerably less dense than concrete, but it still had to help
I have a similar saw and will be printing this. Can you give me the name of the base you are using? I've Googled it but can't find this particular one.
I'll add a link to it in the video description.
I think your mix was wet enough😅
Mix level: drowned.
Not to discourage the use of 3d printing a solution, but wouldn't flipping the base around fix the issue? It appears that the feet on the end you are weighing down are at the same point that the wheels would have been at.
The load doesn't ride on the wheels on the other end in use. When stationary, they lift up, and it drops down on the rubber feet that are only about 1" closer to the edge than the fixed wheels. The real reason though, is usability. I talk a lot in these videos, and I often still manage to miss key points I considered before starting the camera. The "steering" end of the base (the swivel wheels) makes the most sense to have on the end of the saw where the handle is located to grab and pull it around. I initially had it the other way around, and it was quite awkward trying to pull it from the motor housing, especially over small bumps.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Aah, The handle is on that end.
I knew the machine rested on the feet, they looked like they were exactly under the bore for the original wheels.
1:44 yeah the problem is you didn't plug it in!
lol
Fill water box
It will certainly help, but at 2 gallons capacity, that's only about 16lbs, and it's mid-point is half the distance from the fulcrum, so it'll yield about 8 lbs of effective counterweight vs the 52 lbs from the concrete weight.
no, its more a 3d mold print .. and thats its...
You have to remember you’re only going to get out what you put in if you used a 50 pound bag of concrete you’re going to add 50 pounds 🫡😉
There should be water left in there. It should add up to more than that in the end.
That was my hope as well, and it did help. I didn't use about 5 lbs of the mix, and the end result was still over 50lbs
@@FunctionalPrintFriday you also have to take into consideration the weight of the 3-D print and from the looks of it in the video you still had quite a bit of water that would still evaporate out