Part of the cost went into a bit of memory that lets the battery remember that it has had a problem in the past. I bet new cells wouldn't even fix that. Too smart for its own good.
TBF, maybe not the worst idea considering how volatile these battery cells can be - and the supreme ignorance of many that get a little too curious lol. I don't like it, but I suppose they're probably saving a few houses/shops from getting burnt down.
@@RyTrapp0Well, then that's the idiot's fault for being an idiot. By your logic, maybe we just shouldn't let you work on your car; the dealership's only for you. You may have done the break job wrong; maybe you didn't bleed your brake lines properly. That could save a couple kids after all, you know, because that's the issue and maybe not the fact that there is no service information for these thing's and their design is often inherently unsafe and unfit for the road. There is no reason that a bms couldn't detect a battery was improperly installed, and if something was done to where it will catch on fire, then great, the bms wasn't going to do shit anyway. because it's on fire now.
Ahhhh Snap On…the proverbial “10” of the tool beauty queens….and once you take her home you realize she’s gonna take half your check and the makeup doesn’t stay on 24/7. Some men lead lives of quiet tool desperation and some such saying…😂😂😂
We have an entire pile for batteries that only will be charged by benchtop DC power supply anymore, you set the box to say 20.7V for a 18-20V pack and it will stop when there. These packs are getting too smart that its circling back around to stupid
In the age of 3D printing and cheapo microcontrollers I've been considering building my own damn charger just using standard male roll crimp terminals for everything
Not a viable option if you red to do this your pack are dead and probably last 20 minute on a full charge Plus lithium battery need to be charger a special way it just doesn't just stop at 20 volt It steadily lower the amperage at the end of the charge
@@Bobo-ox7fjyou dumb if the charger won't charge the battery they are not good anymore you can charge them with a DC power supply but that just stupid it will make them even more dead a lithium charger do high amp and near the end of the charge it lower the amp and the last 10% can take half the charging time
I literally felt the pain when AvE mentioned taking better care of his hands in his younger days when it was cold. Samesies, brother, fucking samesies. Lol
Mottled white and pink with a bit of blue in the phalanges? Perhaps a wrench or hammer across a fingernail? Imagine the stupid stories we couldn't tell about being young and stupid to young stupid guys! Can't be too stupid unless your nickname is Stumpy!
Mr. Canadian Cave Man, I have had luck manually charging these SnapOff batteries and then subsequently discharging them rapidly by running a 14.4 tool until they start smokin; they will usually start charging after said debauchery. Good luck
I had the same problem I drilled out the Very top center where the injection mold port is and I was able to push the cover off. once off I found that one of the solder points had a crack in it. Fixed the solder and was able to charge again with no more problems.
did a handy (haha) cordless tool mod a while ago : take any old 12V ni-cd or ni-mh battery tool, gut the battery and install wires and clips (and fuse if you must) to hook to a car battery. There's more than enough power for tinkering and small projects, heaps of torque and the battery even charges itself up when you drive the car. it's been a great help since my garage doesnt have AC power wired in.
That is so legit!!! Wow that is awesome!!!! So its the tool without the battery with a length of power wires coming from it with appropriate terminals at the end to connect to your car battery?
@dipndaVic nah, the cable actually goes to the battery (fuse + fuseholder in the battery), and the battery plugs in the tool. That means if you mess up, you mess up a dead battery and not the tool itself (and you can still use tool regular batteries if you want, or plug the cable battery to other compatible tools!). After removing the cells from the battery, you can solder a cable with 2 copper wires like the ones used for house appliances to the battery's terminals, put the wire through a hole drilled in the battery case, and add clips. Take care though to label the cable polarity, because accidentally putting reverse voltage to newer tools (with speed control and whatnot) could at best not work, or at worst damage it
I have 4 of those batteries that i bought about 15 years ago and they're still working today. I use them on almost a daily basis, they dont hold a charge like they used to but they still work.
Those would probably be NiCad's. I've had good luck with those, too. Have 2 14.4s left from '99 that still work. Not great, but they can get some work done.
@@tinbanger66 I’d have to check but I’m sure you are correct. I have 1 newer battery which I bought along with the snap on brushless 3/8” ratchet. That battery seems to give me trouble from time to time.
I asked him about this. He said voltages were 3.7, 3.8, 3.9 and 4.0. But that 3.7 is 50% depleted, so, they're way out of balance, but, shouldn't be failing to charge yet. Maybe red herring, couple other things it could be too.
I got the 2nd generation of these ratchets (standard and long reach) years ago, for significantly less than what they ask now. I bought the kit for the standard length and bought the long reach tool only when it came out a while later and probably paid for both, what it takes to get just the standard length kit today. They both have done me very good and although I use my Milwaukee the most now just because I primarily us the M12 tools for everything these days. In a head to head I still prefer the Snap-on ratchet vs. the non high torque Milwaukee which I believe is its most direct competitor for the Milwaukee line. IMO the Snap-on has the better speed to torque ratio and the batteries are less cumbersome in a tight work area than all but the M12 2.0AH. The old 14.4v 3/8 impact has been retired to the home garage tool box but the ratchets still stay on my service truck as backups.
My boy has an RC car that he's only used maybe twice since getting it for Christmas a couple years ago. Pulled it out of his closet this weekend and couldn't charge the damn battery. It has a "smart charger" that identifies the battery (serial number/model number,etc.) in order to apply the appropriate charge. The problem was the voltage on the battery was too low for the charger to identify it, so it just refuses to do anything. I ended up running some leads from my car battery to it for about 30 seconds. This was enough to get the smart charger to recognize the battery and attempt a charge. It's a 14.8v battery (4 cells). 3 of the cells charge normally. Once the 4th cell gets to 2.9 volts the smart charger shuts off and displays a prompt that says "battery chemistry error". I've opted to just get a new battery at this point as opposed to creating an explosive event.
Assuming they're 18650 cells, you don't just want to buy a replacement cell and swap out the defective one (assuming you can get the undoubtedly epoxied battery clamshell apart without destroying everything)? Would be cheaper than buying a whole new pack.
I have the 14.4 screwdriver and the 1/4" drive ratchet with 3 batteries. The motor went out in the power driver about 6-7 years after I bought it, so I contacted them for an out of warranty repair. They covered shipping both ways with the fixed price out of warranty repair cost (At the time, about $115). When I got it back, not only was the burnt out motor replaced, but so was everything except the final drive/gearbox since it was a well loved (used) tool.
One reason I like Dewart batteries. Almost no brains in the charger. Only thing that stops it from charging is overheating, which I assume is just a PTC thermistor that jacks the resistance way up when it is warm, and the charger sees a low charge current as a possible fault. But it always resets when it cools off. Probably more likely to explode, though. Win some lose some.
Yup, skip the drill tho. I absolutely love the ratchets and the little impact. IDC what anyone says about them, the long reach ratchet has made semi truck starters and compressors much easier. I have had Milwaukee’s, Husky, even the Earthquake- I got more use outta the Earthquake ratchet than the damn Milwaukee one’s..
I was just doing the same thing with a hobby grade RC battery charger on 2 Milwaukee battery packs. I recovered 2 lithium ion cells in a Ryobi 2ah battery that was only charging half-way. It's still working years later. Anyway, I heard somewhere to get the voltage up enough to where the proper charging method (Li Ion) will sense enough voltage to start, one has to use the NiMh method first. That's cuz the NiMh method doesn't care about how low the voltage is. ⚠️Obviously, don't attempt to charge any battery of any type of there's damage or signs of overheating. ⚠️
Had mine for 7 years. Never skipped a beat. Hell i still have 14.4v batteries that are from 2015 that still work. All my tools are snapon and i wouldnt think twice about ordering another.
YESS!!! Its how they get to splinter off and over complicate and overcharge a power supply/converter while preventing you from using it for anything else other than their product. Do you have any batteries you charge without intelligent chargers?
@@marklatimer7333 Right on! Is it difficult to do that? I have thought to do the same but seeing how to bypass chips and where to add a variable resistor if thats even right hurts my mind. Do you try making it a continuous power supply where it can turn on and off when necessary or take multiple inputs or do you just make it so simple you have to make all adjustments manually? or just have multiple brain dead chargers for specific scenarios?
The vijayos on Gear Show's RUclips channel have all sorts of rechargeable battery rebuilds (amongst other things). You might want to take a gander at what he does. He's not the eloquent vocabulary user you are (all of his vijayos are silent). But he's quite the handy fellow. His rebuilds and conversions to battery power are good.
The only snap on cordless tool I like, is the 3/8 14.4 impact (only because of the fwd/ reverse double trigger)After countless battery failures and the absurd prices, I've switched to Milwaukee minus my 14.4 rachets.
often there is a temperature sensor, so if you droped it and the wiring of the sensor got knocked off, the charger will not sens the resistance from the sensor thus not starting the cycle. sometimes the "data going back in forth" is not data is just that.
The end of service life timer has been triggered......... The snap-on truck is on its way to provide you with a new one at the low low price of 3 appendages and your undying servitude.
fixed a discharged broken (aka 30% charge but in protection mode) Cryobi battery a few weeks ago by charging it with another battery that was good. Saved myself 125 american bucks worth of local pesos
New idea universal chargers! 3 d print adapters and adjustable power supply for voltages. Not to be operated by halfwits or you’ll let the smoke out of your house
I have a Mil-Watchamacallit battery that does the same thing. One day the charger just started blinking and refused to charge. If you put it in the tool the battery lights blink. So of course, I opened the battery case and looked at all that stuff... YIKES.... I knew then it's not gonna be simple; They've got 'ya and they know it. For 100 bucks, got to get a new stinking battery.
It's not stuck together. They ultrasonic weld the top "case" to the bottom. There is a plastic support in between the upper two batteries that is ultrasonic welded at the top. Take a small drill bit, quarter inch or so to the little divot in-between the terminals and you'll see when you get through it, she'll slide right out!
Also, it's probably not faulty, the terminals get spread apart causing a poor connection, and thus, a charging, or tool fault. Split the cases, push the terminal blades back together, and it'll probably work like new...for awhile
I really liked the original 12v milwaukee ratchet from forever ago, payed for itself and many other things. lasted a long time but don't remember how or even if it failed. i got a mac(dwalt in a different color) and have since forgotten what happened with the milwaukee. I didn't like the mac ratchet as much but had some advantages, neither of them could hold a candle to the pneumatic ratchets.
For normal charging, I keep by battery state of charge between 20-80%, and occasionally do a full charge to balance the cells. Don't store them at full charge. They don't like that. Storage charge I leave at 50%.
I know that with laptop batteries, one has to get a specialized piece of equipment like an NLBA1 to unlock the batteries or remove errors that the Battery Management IC stores and prevents laptop batteries from charging. Here in North America, we usually just buy another laptop battery, unlike in Europe, etc., where there is money in fixing them.
I have one of the small snappy batteries that would not charge on my charger I tried to warranty it but it was old I Almost pitched it but tired a different charger and it worked been fine ever since
Just make a dock/cradle for it (shouldn't be hard to 3D print and embed some power contacts) that connects to a generic Li Ion charger. I bought one of the small HF 12V impact drivers a while ago to have an extra one that's a little more compact for light duty things. Except they kind of gouge you on the chargers (even with the combo deals), so instead I just use an RC car battery pack charger for it.
Buddy of mine purchased a unit from china that repairs tool batteries. Had a Milwaukee 18v dead and wouldn't charge. Used his magic machine and viola works like new.
If I had to take a guess there’s probably a logic board inside the battery that had a fuse blow once a cell/18650 went bad. The blown fuse then trips the charger into a fault code.
The cost of these things forced my switch over to Milwaukee. Costs $180us to rebuild these things now (the tool) where i can just go to the tool gettin spot and get most Milwaukee bare tools for the same price.
I recently helped someone troubleshoot the RFID reader...in a water fountain! The filters have RFID tags so you can use counterfeits and still have the usage meter blink red when it's time to change it. Too much doodaddery in "simple" things.
sir, I saw a vijo where this fellow was de-gasing the batteries to bring em around, seemed lejit havent tryed it out yet, maybe you might want to give her ago
Ive found that if you take a fully charged battery and jump the terminals to a junk battery that wont take a charge itll bring it back to within charging spec, but thats on Milwaukee and DeWalt junk.
BZZZT! Alarm! "This purchaser is getting too close to paying off his account! Quickly, scramble the nearest truck to his location, that he may be tempted to buy more shiny goodness!" -- Strap-On's accounting trolls.
I have a love hate relationship with my Milwaukee lithium batteries. I have a dead 9.0 that got used exactly once and a dead 6.0 that only lasted a few months.
I’ve had Snap-On Tools for the last 40 years. I would never buy anything that’s battery operated from them only Milwaukee. Their warranty speaks for itself on their other tools, but it’s a limited warranty on their battery power tools from what I’m aware of.
I once put a screwdriver through my palm. Ever since then it cramps and seizes up if I hold a motorcycle handle. Dumbest reason too. Just trying to punch a hole through a plastic jug for a drain hole. Also got stitches in my thumb because I didn't respect how sharp stamped steel powersupply cases are. I walked to my wife in the next room with it gushing out and went "... Do I need to go to hospital...?" As her eyes go wide
I have the same one. Has been a piece crap from day one. I have two of the matco version in 1/4 drive. The early and newest design. Both are 100x better, I use them daily in my shop.
My boss has a snap-on cordless impact wrench for lug nuts and such. Battery went bad on that thing pretty quick. Was expensive to replace. Pretty sure he bought a new one from harbor freight has been working great much better than the snap-on did. Snap- on is a rip off. Spend three times as much for something g that's really not all that mich better I the long run.
I assume it is a single lower-voltage cell that the charger is rejecting. Other pins on the pack may let you test (and charge) individual cells instead of series pairs - if this is a 14.4V pack with 4x 3.6V (nominal) cells then presumably there wouldn't be any cells in parallel, so each cell should easily be able to be monitored by the BMS/charger via the connector pins (not so easy on large packs with 2 or more cells in parallel).
The charger has alerted the appropriate truck.
Stay where you are, a salesman is on the way.
You have to bend over for him to come up the driveway though.
Trooph
Hide your children!
I'm glad your putting videos out again. I'm missed your gracefull use of the English language
#1 you're 2# I've 3# graceful
Part of the cost went into a bit of memory that lets the battery remember that it has had a problem in the past. I bet new cells wouldn't even fix that. Too smart for its own good.
flash the memory? and if that dont work run a magnet over it and hope for the best :D
Ive successfully rebuilt them. Its not too bad once you get into the case.
TBF, maybe not the worst idea considering how volatile these battery cells can be - and the supreme ignorance of many that get a little too curious lol. I don't like it, but I suppose they're probably saving a few houses/shops from getting burnt down.
@@RyTrapp0gasoline is flammable too, I don’t see many software blocks on my chainsaw…software locks are a tool for hiding crappy manufacturing.
@@RyTrapp0Well, then that's the idiot's fault for being an idiot. By your logic, maybe we just shouldn't let you work on your car; the dealership's only for you. You may have done the break job wrong; maybe you didn't bleed your brake lines properly. That could save a couple kids after all, you know, because that's the issue and maybe not the fact that there is no service information for these thing's and their design is often inherently unsafe and unfit for the road.
There is no reason that a bms couldn't detect a battery was improperly installed, and if something was done to where it will catch on fire, then great, the bms wasn't going to do shit anyway. because it's on fire now.
Broski I’m loving this comeback, missed these videos.
“Broski”
🤦🏻♂️
@@vincedibona4687you have a problem with common linguistics?
You're the only channel. I'll watch right away, no matter im doing lol, keep it up man, love the channel, always have.
Ave: Non optional viewing
This is the kind of video that I subscribed years ago to see. Love seeing the knowledge be passed around.
Thank you
Ahhhh Snap On…the proverbial “10” of the tool beauty queens….and once you take her home you realize she’s gonna take half your check and the makeup doesn’t stay on 24/7. Some men lead lives of quiet tool desperation and some such saying…😂😂😂
Dude you don't have to copy his way of speaking. Just be yourself.
@@salazam What if that is him being himself?
We have an entire pile for batteries that only will be charged by benchtop DC power supply anymore, you set the box to say 20.7V for a 18-20V pack and it will stop when there. These packs are getting too smart that its circling back around to stupid
Dudes! I still gotta make you a thing for the thing. AND new style of dead blow hammer inbound. Hush-hush.
In the age of 3D printing and cheapo microcontrollers I've been considering building my own damn charger just using standard male roll crimp terminals for everything
@arduinoversusevil2025 yup. We'll get 'er tested and rested and on the way back when ready
Not a viable option if you red to do this your pack are dead and probably last 20 minute on a full charge
Plus lithium battery need to be charger a special way it just doesn't just stop at 20 volt
It steadily lower the amperage at the end of the charge
@@Bobo-ox7fjyou dumb if the charger won't charge the battery they are not good anymore you can charge them with a DC power supply but that just stupid it will make them even more dead a lithium charger do high amp and near the end of the charge it lower the amp and the last 10% can take half the charging time
As always, enjoyed the way you present the festivities and lesson learned.
I literally felt the pain when AvE mentioned taking better care of his hands in his younger days when it was cold. Samesies, brother, fucking samesies. Lol
You "literally" felt pain when watching a video on the internet? You should go see a doctor, man.
Mottled white and pink with a bit of blue in the phalanges?
Perhaps a wrench or hammer across a fingernail?
Imagine the stupid stories we couldn't tell about being young and stupid to young stupid guys!
Can't be too stupid unless your nickname is Stumpy!
But but everyone should experience the joy of a screwdriver thru the palm. Bonus pointsnif its philips.
@@Jonathan-hx6oy Bonus points if it's allen wrench, that takes dedication as frensh like to call it
Mr. Canadian Cave Man, I have had luck manually charging these SnapOff batteries and then subsequently discharging them rapidly by running a 14.4 tool until they start smokin; they will usually start charging after said debauchery.
Good luck
I had the same problem I drilled out the Very top center where the injection mold port is and I was able to push the cover off. once off I found that one of the solder points had a crack in it. Fixed the solder and was able to charge again with no more problems.
The tool Gods thank you sir.
I bought a 1000 count roll of those rectal use only stickers, and went to town in the shop, no first aid cabinet or eletrcal panel escaped. Lol
Man I feel spoiled for your great content and uploads this is awesome. Helping distract from the pain
The pain of living.
@@breadnaught3711 Living with an insane leader, yes
@@ivangutowski boo hoo! Do you need a tissue?
@@ivangutowski They're all insane, just in different ways.
Stickin it to the man EVERY SINGLE DAY !
did a handy (haha) cordless tool mod a while ago : take any old 12V ni-cd or ni-mh battery tool, gut the battery and install wires and clips (and fuse if you must) to hook to a car battery. There's more than enough power for tinkering and small projects, heaps of torque and the battery even charges itself up when you drive the car. it's been a great help since my garage doesnt have AC power wired in.
That is so legit!!! Wow that is awesome!!!! So its the tool without the battery with a length of power wires coming from it with appropriate terminals at the end to connect to your car battery?
@dipndaVic nah, the cable actually goes to the battery (fuse + fuseholder in the battery), and the battery plugs in the tool. That means if you mess up, you mess up a dead battery and not the tool itself (and you can still use tool regular batteries if you want, or plug the cable battery to other compatible tools!). After removing the cells from the battery, you can solder a cable with 2 copper wires like the ones used for house appliances to the battery's terminals, put the wire through a hole drilled in the battery case, and add clips. Take care though to label the cable polarity, because accidentally putting reverse voltage to newer tools (with speed control and whatnot) could at best not work, or at worst damage it
You neither repaired it, nor destroyed it beyond repair.
Very disappointed.
Thank you AvE! Love your videos!
I like your Charger collection ! I've got another dozen you could have, if they weren't here in Australia !
I have 4 of those batteries that i bought about 15 years ago and they're still working today. I use them on almost a daily basis, they dont hold a charge like they used to but they still work.
Same here.
Those would probably be NiCad's. I've had good luck with those, too. Have 2 14.4s left from '99 that still work. Not great, but they can get some work done.
@@tinbanger66 I’d have to check but I’m sure you are correct. I have 1 newer battery which I bought along with the snap on brushless 3/8” ratchet. That battery seems to give me trouble from time to time.
This is potential dangerous, because 4.0 + 4.4 also equals 8.4. You have to check first, whether the single cells are out of balance.
yep. need to charge (balance) individual cells. Probably that's what charger complaining about.
I asked him about this. He said voltages were 3.7, 3.8, 3.9 and 4.0. But that 3.7 is 50% depleted, so, they're way out of balance, but, shouldn't be failing to charge yet. Maybe red herring, couple other things it could be too.
I got the 2nd generation of these ratchets (standard and long reach) years ago, for significantly less than what they ask now. I bought the kit for the standard length and bought the long reach tool only when it came out a while later and probably paid for both, what it takes to get just the standard length kit today. They both have done me very good and although I use my Milwaukee the most now just because I primarily us the M12 tools for everything these days. In a head to head I still prefer the Snap-on ratchet vs. the non high torque Milwaukee which I believe is its most direct competitor for the Milwaukee line. IMO the Snap-on has the better speed to torque ratio and the batteries are less cumbersome in a tight work area than all but the M12 2.0AH. The old 14.4v 3/8 impact has been retired to the home garage tool box but the ratchets still stay on my service truck as backups.
Ive had mine for 8years still going strong original batterysmand all
My boy has an RC car that he's only used maybe twice since getting it for Christmas a couple years ago. Pulled it out of his closet this weekend and couldn't charge the damn battery. It has a "smart charger" that identifies the battery (serial number/model number,etc.) in order to apply the appropriate charge. The problem was the voltage on the battery was too low for the charger to identify it, so it just refuses to do anything. I ended up running some leads from my car battery to it for about 30 seconds. This was enough to get the smart charger to recognize the battery and attempt a charge. It's a 14.8v battery (4 cells). 3 of the cells charge normally. Once the 4th cell gets to 2.9 volts the smart charger shuts off and displays a prompt that says "battery chemistry error". I've opted to just get a new battery at this point as opposed to creating an explosive event.
Wow that's a fascinating story! What wisdom! Can I have your autograph?
Assuming they're 18650 cells, you don't just want to buy a replacement cell and swap out the defective one (assuming you can get the undoubtedly epoxied battery clamshell apart without destroying everything)? Would be cheaper than buying a whole new pack.
@punchsideiron8502 thanks for the tip
I have the 14.4 screwdriver and the 1/4" drive ratchet with 3 batteries. The motor went out in the power driver about 6-7 years after I bought it, so I contacted them for an out of warranty repair. They covered shipping both ways with the fixed price out of warranty repair cost (At the time, about $115). When I got it back, not only was the burnt out motor replaced, but so was everything except the final drive/gearbox since it was a well loved (used) tool.
Last time I was this early, I had by first child
Thanks for showing a good reach-around..I mean work-around.
The companies protecting us from ourselves is rather annoying. Let us fix the dern things.
One reason I like Dewart batteries. Almost no brains in the charger. Only thing that stops it from charging is overheating, which I assume is just a PTC thermistor that jacks the resistance way up when it is warm, and the charger sees a low charge current as a possible fault. But it always resets when it cools off.
Probably more likely to explode, though. Win some lose some.
Yes! Dewalt batteries are the best out there.
Too cold will stop charge too. Aka - 10 in back of my van first thing in the morning lol.
I don't regret buying their 14.4 3/8 impact. For the size it's hard to beat.
Yup, skip the drill tho. I absolutely love the ratchets and the little impact. IDC what anyone says about them, the long reach ratchet has made semi truck starters and compressors much easier. I have had Milwaukee’s, Husky, even the Earthquake- I got more use outta the Earthquake ratchet than the damn Milwaukee one’s..
Lol it's super easy to beat lol
@@RichardBolger-c5b GOTTA be the 3/8 though. The 1/4 inch is trash.
Wait till you use a current gen milwaukee 3/8...
@@christopherdickinson4291 I love my 1/2 mid torque. Beats the pants off my OG 1/2 m18 and is actually comfortable to use.
I'm not brand loyal, but I bought a Dewalt 20 years ago and she just won't die. One of the two batteries is original too.
I was just doing the same thing with a hobby grade RC battery charger on 2 Milwaukee battery packs. I recovered 2 lithium ion cells in a Ryobi 2ah battery that was only charging half-way. It's still working years later. Anyway, I heard somewhere to get the voltage up enough to where the proper charging method (Li Ion) will sense enough voltage to start, one has to use the NiMh method first. That's cuz the NiMh method doesn't care about how low the voltage is.
⚠️Obviously, don't attempt to charge any battery of any type of there's damage or signs of overheating. ⚠️
0:44 I mean, it's a Snap-on. Of course it snaps!
😂😂😂
Even battery revues went tats up
Hello to the smartest and most sarcastic hands on the internet.
I'll give these hands the snark, but ToT's might be tad sharper.
Had mine for 7 years. Never skipped a beat. Hell i still have 14.4v batteries that are from 2015 that still work. All my tools are snapon and i wouldnt think twice about ordering another.
The first 2 digits after the letter on the battery SN indicates the year of production on snap on battery packs.
@@t6toolsi know. Ive got 14-24s
prob somth about buying warm weather tools in a cold as your stepmoms climate.
@@zalandarri live in the desert. Its hotter than your moms bra in the summer here.
The bane of modern society the "Intelligent Charger"!
YESS!!! Its how they get to splinter off and over complicate and overcharge a power supply/converter while preventing you from using it for anything else other than their product.
Do you have any batteries you charge without intelligent chargers?
@@dipndaVic All of them - I'm an Electronics Engineer so all my chargers have been "lobotomised" to be the "Brain Dead" type.
It's also very necessary for lithium ion batteries🙄... Otherwise they catch on fire and explode 🔥
@@marklatimer7333 Right on! Is it difficult to do that? I have thought to do the same but seeing how to bypass chips and where to add a variable resistor if thats even right hurts my mind.
Do you try making it a continuous power supply where it can turn on and off when necessary or take multiple inputs or do you just make it so simple you have to make all adjustments manually? or just have multiple brain dead chargers for specific scenarios?
The snap-on cost so much, they are probably still paying Milwaukee for the battery patent lawsuit. They have to get that 27.8 million from somewhere.
28 mil? That's like a coupla socket sets and a screwyou driver innit? 😄
The vijayos on Gear Show's RUclips channel have all sorts of rechargeable battery rebuilds (amongst other things). You might want to take a gander at what he does. He's not the eloquent vocabulary user you are (all of his vijayos are silent). But he's quite the handy fellow. His rebuilds and conversions to battery power are good.
2025 is the best year yet! AvE again!
The only snap on cordless tool I like, is the 3/8 14.4 impact (only because of the fwd/ reverse double trigger)After countless battery failures and the absurd prices, I've switched to Milwaukee minus my 14.4 rachets.
"It sorta' works", just add "until it doesn't" and that describes me,. my entire life and everything I do. :-)
often there is a temperature sensor, so if you droped it and the wiring of the sensor got knocked off, the charger will not sens the resistance from the sensor thus not starting the cycle. sometimes the "data going back in forth" is not data is just that.
Right to repair is ours, coz we bought it and own it.
The end of service life timer has been triggered.........
The snap-on truck is on its way to provide you with a new one at the low low price of 3 appendages and your undying servitude.
Use isopropanol to free from the glue
fixed a discharged broken (aka 30% charge but in protection mode) Cryobi battery a few weeks ago by charging it with another battery that was good. Saved myself 125 american bucks worth of local pesos
Maybe they listened to you the other day when you mentioned the shadow ban because I’m finally getting your recommendations again.
New idea universal chargers! 3 d print adapters and adjustable power supply for voltages. Not to be operated by halfwits or you’ll let the smoke out of your house
The snapping and going to a different posistion is why it's called snap on.
I'm a firm believer that if heat makes it better, more heat makes it more better. Throw it in the fire for a few minutes to loosen the mucilage.
I have a Mil-Watchamacallit battery that does the same thing. One day the charger just started blinking and refused to charge. If you put it in the tool the battery lights blink. So of course, I opened the battery case and looked at all that stuff... YIKES.... I knew then it's not gonna be simple; They've got 'ya and they know it. For 100 bucks, got to get a new stinking battery.
It's not stuck together. They ultrasonic weld the top "case" to the bottom. There is a plastic support in between the upper two batteries that is ultrasonic welded at the top. Take a small drill bit, quarter inch or so to the little divot in-between the terminals and you'll see when you get through it, she'll slide right out!
Also, it's probably not faulty, the terminals get spread apart causing a poor connection, and thus, a charging, or tool fault. Split the cases, push the terminal blades back together, and it'll probably work like new...for awhile
A fancy charger could tell you the internal resistance of the cell what fails (diff between load and no load voltage/current)
I've taken these batteries apart. heat up the upper plastic case of the battery and the adhesive pads will release.
I really liked the original 12v milwaukee ratchet from forever ago, payed for itself and many other things. lasted a long time but don't remember how or even if it failed. i got a mac(dwalt in a different color) and have since forgotten what happened with the milwaukee. I didn't like the mac ratchet as much but had some advantages, neither of them could hold a candle to the pneumatic ratchets.
I must appreciate AvE more than I do my power ratchets because I’m gonna watch this whole video while tearing apart a 6.7 with mine…
Aahh the old Makita battery lockout 'feature' eventually spreads to all makes.
Thank ya kindly.
For normal charging, I keep by battery state of charge between 20-80%, and occasionally do a full charge to balance the cells.
Don't store them at full charge. They don't like that. Storage charge I leave at 50%.
I know that with laptop batteries, one has to get a specialized piece of equipment like an NLBA1 to unlock the batteries or remove errors that the Battery Management IC stores and prevents laptop batteries from charging. Here in North America, we usually just buy another laptop battery, unlike in Europe, etc., where there is money in fixing them.
I have one of the small snappy batteries that would not charge on my charger I tried to warranty it but it was old I Almost pitched it but tired a different charger and it worked been fine ever since
I missed the "Hoser Extrodinare" Tool Guy !
Just make a dock/cradle for it (shouldn't be hard to 3D print and embed some power contacts) that connects to a generic Li Ion charger.
I bought one of the small HF 12V impact drivers a while ago to have an extra one that's a little more compact for light duty things. Except they kind of gouge you on the chargers (even with the combo deals), so instead I just use an RC car battery pack charger for it.
Try an RC model charger that will cut out when it reaches the charge level you set
Voltage to low. Even a 3s lipo only runs 11v.
@@jklbubbublkj7939a good charger can be set at a custom voltage cut off.
Buddy of mine purchased a unit from china that repairs tool batteries. Had a Milwaukee 18v dead and wouldn't charge. Used his magic machine and viola works like new.
If I had to take a guess there’s probably a logic board inside the battery that had a fuse blow once a cell/18650 went bad. The blown fuse then trips the charger into a fault code.
The cost of these things forced my switch over to Milwaukee. Costs $180us to rebuild these things now (the tool) where i can just go to the tool gettin spot and get most Milwaukee bare tools for the same price.
I recently helped someone troubleshoot the RFID reader...in a water fountain! The filters have RFID tags so you can use counterfeits and still have the usage meter blink red when it's time to change it. Too much doodaddery in "simple" things.
sir, I saw a vijo where this fellow was de-gasing the batteries to bring em around, seemed lejit havent tryed it out yet, maybe you might want to give her ago
Finnally a snow Mexican thats just telling it like it is rather than just complaining about Murica
The battery has passed it's "best if used by" date, that point at which the manufacturer deems it time for you to buy another...
Sounds like scheduled obsolescence. Now jump on the truck and reveal to me your chili ring.
Ive found that if you take a fully charged battery and jump the terminals to a junk battery that wont take a charge itll bring it back to within charging spec, but thats on Milwaukee and DeWalt junk.
there should be a snap on hotline you can call to speak to someone when youre lonely at that price
I’ve only bought hand tools from Snap-on. I’ll have them paid off in about 10 years lol
BZZZT! Alarm!
"This purchaser is getting too close to paying off his account! Quickly, scramble the nearest truck to his location, that he may be tempted to buy more shiny goodness!"
-- Strap-On's accounting trolls.
1:59 We've all been there.
I was thinking you could just do a Rhodesian jumpstart. Hooking the good bah-tree to das blinking lights one.
Turning the outputs on the power supply down below battery voltage or completely to zero will turn the display into a volt meter.
Try the AC delco cordless ratchet. It is bigger but you can crank on it a lot more
Working aviation, everyone is going to the Mil 1/4 electric ratchet.
Remember when tools used to last forever?
Please do a classic Bolt’r tear down of the new Dewalt DCF870 “Quiet Hydraulic Impact”
And that situation is precisely why I sold all my electronic fap off tools. For the price you pay, you don't get the quality or the warranty anymore
I have a love hate relationship with my Milwaukee lithium batteries. I have a dead 9.0 that got used exactly once and a dead 6.0 that only lasted a few months.
ive been using ryobi for light duty cnc work. the batteries last me aout a year and a half.
I’ve had Snap-On Tools for the last 40 years. I would never buy anything that’s battery operated from them only Milwaukee. Their warranty speaks for itself on their other tools, but it’s a limited warranty on their battery power tools from what I’m aware of.
Hence the name Snap On.
I was waiting the entire video for you to pull out the chainsaw and get that battery open, one way or another.
Isopropynol is good for releasing those sticky pads.
Check out the DeWalt DCF510. More power than the Milfaukee and no one will mistake you for a Red Team fan boy 😜
I once put a screwdriver through my palm. Ever since then it cramps and seizes up if I hold a motorcycle handle. Dumbest reason too. Just trying to punch a hole through a plastic jug for a drain hole. Also got stitches in my thumb because I didn't respect how sharp stamped steel powersupply cases are. I walked to my wife in the next room with it gushing out and went "... Do I need to go to hospital...?" As her eyes go wide
Your point being...?
You should have more subscribers.
I have the same one. Has been a piece crap from day one. I have two of the matco version in 1/4 drive. The early and newest design. Both are 100x better, I use them daily in my shop.
"I was saying Boo-urns"
My boss has a snap-on cordless impact wrench for lug nuts and such. Battery went bad on that thing pretty quick. Was expensive to replace. Pretty sure he bought a new one from harbor freight has been working great much better than the snap-on did. Snap- on is a rip off. Spend three times as much for something g that's really not all that mich better I the long run.
Never was, never will be.
Meanwhile, the knockoff Milwaukee M12 battery still works like a top even after being frozen and left dead on the bench multiple times
I assume it is a single lower-voltage cell that the charger is rejecting. Other pins on the pack may let you test (and charge) individual cells instead of series pairs - if this is a 14.4V pack with 4x 3.6V (nominal) cells then presumably there wouldn't be any cells in parallel, so each cell should easily be able to be monitored by the BMS/charger via the connector pins (not so easy on large packs with 2 or more cells in parallel).
Tell us more about that power supply pleases. I'm interested. What if your batteries are sulfated?
You running SLABs? What for?