Got a chuckle when coached to breathe. Definitely one of those situations where you hold your breath when compressing a spring during assembly. Chances are 50/50 everything will go flying and SOMETHING will get lost!
Hi Elin, I was wondering how many got the Elton John joke, two or three so far, very funny!! Great video as always, will follow you on the instathingy!! All the best
Hi Elin Had the same issue with the repro vent seal they are c----p way too thick. Solution is to get a length of 1/4 inch silicone tube slit it along its length and super glue the ends together makes a perfect seal. Just use the bit of the rubber under the hinge to keep the correct height. Your totally right recondition the old parts where you can they are much better! Andy
Hey Elin, the little ‘broken’ area on the face of the MC is to allow any leakage or weeping brake fluid to escape instead of finding it’s way into the brake booster. It is on all of the MC.
Possible, but it looks like a chip to me. And it is not really centered at the bottom.... It doesn't really matter, it doesn't affect the performance of the brakes
Hey Elin, just spotted something on your workbench. As if you can get Quality Street chocolates in Canada! The empty tins, and lids in your case, used to come in really handy. I still have one or two in my garage. They have economised nowadays, we buy some every Christmas but they now come in a plastic container, which you can still use in the garage, but not as good as the tins!
Elin, Regarding the scuttle vent gasket issue. Had the same experience 3 years ago and gave up with the oem replacements. They just don’t work. Found a soft rubber door edging that worked best and allowed the door to close flush.
Elin, I forgot if you have an ultrasonic cleaner, but it you don't you should have. You could have put the master cylinder in it and you would be certain it is spotlessly clean inside and out. Just a suggestion. Thanks for another very valuable video with lots of great information.
I would love to see Anna the GT6 in that lovely Mallard Blue ! Definitely the right idea to rebuild the original higher quality component than buy new cheap reproductions.
Elin, please give us an update on the scuttle vent seal... whether the rubber gives a little to let it close properly, or is you end up having to modify it in some way for a good fit. Thanks for all you do and share on your videos!
Yeah, I will. I might put some weight on it as well and let it sit for a long time. Many people already said they had the same issue and they either trimmed it or removed it completely
@@RustyBeauties hello i was just trying to back date my 73 tr6 with a scuttle hatch instead of plastic grill, during installation my vent wouldnt close properly and i figured out that the hinge on scuttle hatch is improperly bent up, the side of hinge that attaches to car if you take scuttle hinge apart rebend the side of hinge that attaches to car, it needs a sharper angle then it will lift lid a little higher and then it lays a lot better on the seal. My scuttle cover hinge was really bad couldnt open the hatch without it fouling on the body after i rebent the side of hinge that attaches to body no more fouling and i closes properly now.
for the pdwa, you could probably replace the O-rings with any material O-ring as the silicon brake fluid shouldn't attack them. Just make sure the rubber is temperature resistant.
I can't agree more about the low quality of the replacent master cylinders. The replacement cast parts available are absolute junk for the most part. The bore in the pulley on the replacement waterpump on my car when I got it was about 3/16" off center from the hub! Wildly out of balance. Its no wonder they fail constantly. I got two good condition original Stanpart made in England units and had Flying Dutchman rebuild them. Better than new tolerances with an improved impeller. And they look awesome. I also threw away the TRW master, and had Apple Hydraulics rebuilt an original I got on Ebay, along with the PDWA, original clutch master, and original made in England "patent pending" brake calipers I was lucky enough to still have on the car. It would have been cheaper to go another route of course, but I've got so much else to do on this build, and everything came back so awesome, I dont regret it at all. I can't recommend those two rebuilders highly enough.
I had the same problem with my scuttle seal, but it was with the later plastic screen. It wasn't even close to fitting right. Ended up just leaving the seal off and never looked back.
No need to bench-bleed the master cylinder prior to installing? I will eliminate the PDWA at the next occasion. Wasn‘t installed on European cars anyway and is one potential source of failure less. Enjoy your videos, keep it up👍
Nice job explaining your brake master cylinder rebuild. I was drinking several cold beers while watching.
Loved the Benny and the Jets easter egg reference!
Thanks Elin. I paid extra attention to the PDWA section. Now I know what to check after my failed brake bleed this past fall.
Got a chuckle when coached to breathe. Definitely one of those situations where you hold your breath when compressing a spring during assembly. Chances are 50/50 everything will go flying and SOMETHING will get lost!
ba ba ba Benny and the jets lol... God bless.
Hi Elin, I was wondering how many got the Elton John joke, two or three so far, very funny!!
Great video as always, will follow you on the instathingy!!
All the best
Yeah, it was an easter egg :)
Unbelievable great filmingham and instruction welldone Elin 👍
Hi Elin Had the same issue with the repro vent seal they are c----p way too thick. Solution is to get a length of 1/4 inch silicone tube slit it along its length and super glue the ends together makes a perfect seal. Just use the bit of the rubber under the hinge to keep the correct height. Your totally right recondition the old parts where you can they are much better! Andy
Very interesting video Elin. On some rebuild videos you are often not given such details. Looking forward to the next stage ..
Benny and the jets! (Got that Elin 😁)
LOL
Hey Elin, the little ‘broken’ area on the face of the MC is to allow any leakage or weeping brake fluid to escape instead of finding it’s way into the brake booster. It is on all of the MC.
Possible, but it looks like a chip to me. And it is not really centered at the bottom.... It doesn't really matter, it doesn't affect the performance of the brakes
You taught us a lot in this video, thanks
Great video. Modifying and trimming that scuttle seal to fit right is an all day process. Ask me how I know.
Hey Elin, just spotted something on your workbench. As if you can get Quality Street chocolates in Canada! The empty tins, and lids in your case, used to come in really handy. I still have one or two in my garage. They have economised nowadays, we buy some every Christmas but they now come in a plastic container, which you can still use in the garage, but not as good as the tins!
Yeah, I keep all kinds of containers for my parts. Coffee cans are my favorite :)
Great video,good little tutorial,very informative,just keep doing what your doing.car is coming along.just keep doing what your doing 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Lucas? On a brake cylinder? Electric brakes?
Elin,
Regarding the scuttle vent gasket issue.
Had the same experience 3 years ago and gave up with the oem replacements. They just don’t work.
Found a soft rubber door edging that worked best and allowed the door to close flush.
Elin, I forgot if you have an ultrasonic cleaner, but it you don't you should have. You could have put the master cylinder in it and you would be certain it is spotlessly clean inside and out. Just a suggestion. Thanks for another very valuable video with lots of great information.
Good idea. I do have one, I didn't think of it though...
I would love to see Anna the GT6 in that lovely Mallard Blue !
Definitely the right idea to rebuild the original higher quality component than buy new cheap reproductions.
Elin, please give us an update on the scuttle vent seal... whether the rubber gives a little to let it close properly, or is you end up having to modify it in some way for a good fit. Thanks for all you do and share on your videos!
Yeah, I will. I might put some weight on it as well and let it sit for a long time. Many people already said they had the same issue and they either trimmed it or removed it completely
@@RustyBeauties hello i was just trying to back date my 73 tr6 with a scuttle hatch instead of plastic grill, during installation my vent wouldnt close properly and i figured out that the hinge on scuttle hatch is improperly bent up, the side of hinge that attaches to car if you take scuttle hinge apart rebend the side of hinge that attaches to car, it needs a sharper angle then it will lift lid a little higher and then it lays a lot better on the seal. My scuttle cover hinge was really bad couldnt open the hatch without it fouling on the body after i rebent the side of hinge that attaches to body no more fouling and i closes properly now.
for the pdwa, you could probably replace the O-rings with any material O-ring as the silicon brake fluid shouldn't attack them. Just make sure the rubber is temperature resistant.
Elin those scuttle vent seals are notoriously too tall for TR4(A) too. On my car I had to trim them down with a razor blade👍
I can't agree more about the low quality of the replacent master cylinders. The replacement cast parts available are absolute junk for the most part. The bore in the pulley on the replacement waterpump on my car when I got it was about 3/16" off center from the hub! Wildly out of balance. Its no wonder they fail constantly. I got two good condition original Stanpart made in England units and had Flying Dutchman rebuild them. Better than new tolerances with an improved impeller. And they look awesome. I also threw away the TRW master, and had Apple Hydraulics rebuilt an original I got on Ebay, along with the PDWA, original clutch master, and original made in England "patent pending" brake calipers I was lucky enough to still have on the car. It would have been cheaper to go another route of course, but I've got so much else to do on this build, and everything came back so awesome, I dont regret it at all. I can't recommend those two rebuilders highly enough.
I had the same problem with my scuttle seal, but it was with the later plastic screen. It wasn't even close to fitting right. Ended up just leaving the seal off and never looked back.
No need to bench-bleed the master cylinder prior to installing? I will eliminate the PDWA at the next occasion. Wasn‘t installed on European cars anyway and is one potential source of failure less.
Enjoy your videos, keep it up👍
Could your Air Vent rubber be upside down preventing it from closing properly?
No, it is the right way, but as many others said, apparently these are notorious for not fitting properly
Am I the first!
You should be first every time John 😉