Ibiza 800W Amplifier repair - Dead. No Power
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- LER #229 Here we have a dead Power Amplifier IBIZA Amp-800 PA. Let's see if we can repair it.
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Thank you
Richard
![Oasis - Oasis Live '25 [Official Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gol_JnuEtKM/mqdefault.jpg)
This as an easy fix, try and fix a power amp who's output transistors have gone nuclear and took out half the other complimentary components and gate driver transistors, lol.
You think i haven't done that a few times over the years? This is live repair work - I have no idea what I am going to find when I start a repair video 😉 I'm sure the next time I find that sort of failure it will also make an interesting video.
There are subscribers of all sorts of knowledge levels here so some will find videos educational and others will find the same videos simple.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair That's fair enough, If you are going to educate people on this subject just don't forget to warn people of the dangers of working with high voltage equipment, that's what professionals normally do.
@@tyronenelson9124 I certainly warn people about topics such a high voltage capacitors when relevant, and about removing the power lead, not just relying on the on/off switch to keep you safe. There are some more indepth amplifier and mixer repairs in this playlist, maybe you would like to check them out 🙂
ruclips.net/p/PLQ_OzNEYrepV2dUXuqvVHsCxr5rowKBNh
@@LearnElectronicsRepair No problem.
@@tyronenelson9124 Put your ego away Tyrone. This feller is providing instruction and sharing his experience for free, and doing a very good job of it! What are you doing to help people?
King Richard, you don't seem old enough but you and I share the same love of Northern Soul!
clean repair, these are the best kinds
Rather than using up desolder braid to clean up the terminals on something like a switch I add either a bit of flux or some fresh solder and then when it's heated with the iron I slam it down on the bench. Any excess solder is removed, and it leaves it nicely tinned.
nice trick
I love your heavy handed approach to fixing these devices. 😅
music sounds like out of the old shaft series 😂. Love your videos 👍
Volume was low. I thought I heard Billy Jean and thought he'd get a copyright violation... Lol! SHAFT!! He's one bad.... SHUT YO' MOUTH!
It's very satisfying seeing you clean and restore the fan. Love the gentle humour too. Subscribed.
that thing needs a cleaning. good work.
Great video, thanks. I didn't notice until the end you actually did replace the fan, which is what I was thinking as you were disassembling that $5 fan...
33:50 OMG what a great tip and so simple! Plus it reduces inductive kickback 👍
On fuses, F is fast blow, and it will just be a straight piece of fuse wire inside the fuse case.
T is time lag and the inside of the fuse will either look like a spring with a fuse wire connected or it might have a metal blob on the fuse wire. Either way, they increase the thermal mass and extend the time it takes for the fuse to blow.
Time lag fuses are used when there is a high inrush current like you will get with high value capacitors charging in the PSU or due to high current transients you get in power amplifiers for example. I suspect someone put a fast blow fuse in this when it really needs a time lag fuse.
useful
Most solid state power amps use a fast. Of course could be slow one. Odd that it’s not clearly marked on chassis
One thing I do wonder Richard is why you don't get yourself a battery powered (garden) blower and blow some of this shit out (outside of course) before you tackle it, well after shaking to see if anything falls out that is, probably save you a TON of time ;) And your lungs!
You need to take a GIANT air blaster to that thing! Also at the end of your video there are bit of the front panel at the back flaking off BIG TIME!
Good fix. Just a quick comment. As the fuse is in the mains circuit, it should be a ceramic HRC (high rupture capacity) type, not glass.
Great video!!!
I enjoyed watching that!
Mains switch hanging out, blown fuse which may have been soldered too. Did any of the blades or connectors have a damage mark from arcing (or the metal case cutout)?
Im thinking whoever connected that switch could well have shorted to the case while trying to shove it in while powered up.
I think this too!
Very good video as usual hope this helps others FF = Fast Fast. Very Quick Acting. (also known as Anti Surge)
F = Fast. Quick Acting. (also known as Anti Surge)
(Typically open in less than 20 ms @ ten times the rated current)
M = Medium. "Normal" or Very Short Delay.
(Typically open between 50 and 90 ms @ ten times the rated current)
T = Time. Time Delay or Slow Blow.
(Typically open between 100 and 300 ms @ ten times the rated current)
TT = Time Time. Long Time Delay or Very Slow Blow.
FF = Fast Fast. Very Quick Acting. (also known as Anti Surge)
F = Fast. Quick Acting. (also known as Anti Surge)
(Typically open in less than 20 ms @ ten times the rated current)
M = Medium. "Normal" or Very Short Delay.
(Typically open between 50 and 90 ms @ ten times the rated current)
T = Time. Time Delay or Slow Blow.
(Typically open between 100 and 300 ms @ ten times the rated current)
TT = Time Time. Long Time Delay or Very Slow Blow.
Thanks for the info. I'm familiar with F and T types. What's the L type I found on this repair?
. Low Breaking Capacity.Interrupting Rating (Breaking Capacity)
Also known as the breaking capacity or short circuit rating is the maximum approved current which the fuse can safely interrupt at rated voltage. During a fault or short circuit condition, a fuse may receive an instantaneous overload current many times greater than its normal operating current. Safe operation requires that the fuse remain intact (No explosion or body rupture) and clear the circuit.
LBC = Low Breaking Capacity
HRC =High Breaking Capacity
EBC = Enhanced Breaking Capacity
We call it three and one in the US as well
Nice job and fancy amplifier.
Thanks for the repair sir. Please can you do a video explaining indept repair on audio amplifiers and mixers
Sure when I get some more jobs like that I'll make videos. I've already done a few in depth power amps and mixers - check out the playlist
ruclips.net/p/PLQ_OzNEYrepV2dUXuqvVHsCxr5rowKBNh
As a general rule, I avoid any pro amplifier that has speaker binding post terminals on the back. It's always a sign of a cheap product with inflated specs. It looks to be electrically safe inside, at least.
Looks like somebody sodered wire across a blown fuse to get it going. Fun fact, in a block of 5 flats that I used to live in, years ago, I found somebody had put a nail in the fuse carrier to the flat...
Pity you're not in tenerife, i would bring you some work😁
Make it worth my while and I'll come over to you 🙂
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I'll save some stuff for you to be worth visiting!
@@LearnElectronicsRepair can i get your email for future if needed to contact?
@@namasnamas3002 Sure, it's electronicanaria@outlook.com Let me know what you have, and we can arrange something
I have an amplifier here pretty much identical to the one in this video, except it goes by the name Skytec Pro600, the front and back panel exact same, transformer, power supply, amp board, heatsink and fan all exactly the same, a manufacturer probably makes these for a variety of different companies. The main reason I mention it is because the one I have has a different fault to the fault you had, this one was working fine then suddenly the right channel went down, like you mention in the video it seems as though there is positive and negative on opposite sides of the amp board, looking at the side accessible without removing the board it appears the left channel is on the left of the board and the right channel on the right side, I have tested as much as I can test with the knowledge I have, the voltage regulator and everything on the board seems ok, so its likely to be one or more of the larger Mosfets? Would you consider doing a video on showing us novice enthusiasts how to test and trace the possible reasons a channel would be dead? I started tinkering with electronics as a retirement hobby, I have repaired several solid state guitar amps so far, it a fascinating subject and gives great satisfaction to repair something and give it new life instead of it going to landfill. I've been watching through your videos, extremely interesting and very educational, any help I can get to build my knowledge and confidence is much appreciated, it also helps keep the brain cells alive and functioning, so thank you!!
Love this channel!
34:15 original fan versus 36:00 CPU fan.... The original fan was flat against the bench. I wonder if that effected original fan speed and your sense of it's overall operation.
Extensive layered malfunctions with the mains power circuit. It must have had some help.
L is the break capacity. H for high. L for low.
i love your vids, i want to get your experience and knoweldge, what would u recommend to read, web sites, etc, apart of your vids, to get some theory. Thanks from Spain. (i buy a lot of broken amps!!!)
When I was 15 Years old I used to Build these Types of Amplifiers.. From 6 Watt to 300 Watt.
This was 45 years ago. lol.
I would say that someone solder a wire across that blown fuse to get it working... running it without a fuse...and then it burnt out when something shorted out....probably that loose hanging switch touched the front case....🤔
Great repair
Another interesting video - cool song too 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Check out the Sweet Dynamite song on RUclips of course, there are two 'original' versions, one is the original mix on London Records 12" 1976 ,(very rare vinyl) and the other is the Tom Moulton mix on Salsoul Records from 1978 I believe, which is the one I put on this video. They both sound quite similar.
They write "800 watt" on the amp. But how much do you think the amp delivers?
Hello Sir, i have a Sony amplifier with no power whatsoever, not even standby voltage, all the fuse has continuity. where do start? help please ( DIY )
3 in 1 oil contains furniture polish which in time siezes up bearings
Where do people come up with these myths it does not contain any furniture polish whatsoever it contains the exact same ingredient as 99.9% of all penetrating oils
97% Hydrotreated Heavy Naphthenic Oil! It's just a very thin distillate that comes from petroleum oil like everything else. It also contains a second ingredient at 5% calcium sulfonate which is a preservative and helps in lubrication the other two and a half percent is another Naphthenic oil which is just carried over by the distillation process. It's very difficult to separate from the main ingredient the Hydra treated portion. They have to list it because it's an ingredient and it's a separate category to the original but rather than coming up with an expensive process to detect that portion of the distillate when it first starts coming over and then cutting off the distillation process they just included in the paperwork it's basically no different.
It doesn't contain any furniture polish please end the myth here
Honestly I ALWAYS replace fans. Lubing them is temporary. Plus they are cheap.
@@clifffton I probably got 3000 brand new fans. We were closing down a production facility and they needed to get rid of inventory fast because of surveying actually rules I threw them in my van and took them home. Got two three and four inch fans biscuit fans you name it
@@ClownWhisper Clown Whisper with whisper fans. Should maybe do a number of small lots with 2 of each type.
@@ClownWhisper I've heard of using turbine oil for bearings. Sintered bearings or felt pad reservoir or cup type reservoir. Varying opinions. These days getting things up and running is the priority goal.
why would swapping n and l wires at the switch blow the fuse or did i misunderstand something.
Heat sink looks to be positioned poorly. Doesn't really make the most of the front-to-back air flow. It'd be better if it were rotated 90 degrees with the PCB on the right.
wouldnt you argue, 220V, 800W -> so the current has to be 800W/220V=3.6A , so place a 4A fuse?
Hi, I would say the only time the switch has positive and negative is if it has a light indicator à neon or resistor and light.but am sure you new that ,but there normally 12vdc
Yeah the asme applies with the ones that have a neon indicator (120V/240V) If you connect the power input to the wrong terminals the light comes on even when the switch is turned off - but the switch still functions correctly
Double disconnect on the mains is common.
"L" on a fuse on far eastern power amplifiers stands for "replace with a naiL"
Nice one
2x 300w 4R RMS
2x 200w 8R RMS
Easy repair but nice video. Why is Tres-en-uno so funny for you?
It’s just me , I start with the fuse when not powering on.
Is it me or does that amplifier have XLR speaker outputs? as it really shouldn't have.
I didn't actually check. I'm pretty sure it has XLR inputs (I used the phono inputs instead) and Speakon outputs (or the terminal posts I used)
You should have discharged the caps before pocking around
The soldered a shunt across the fuse because they were too lazy to replace it
BC they didn't realize there was a spare.
@@TheDivergentDrummer I don't think that that's really an excuse LOL but yeah you're probably right
@@ClownWhisper Yeah, not sure why anyone would do that.
Use that Amp as a Boat Anchor
Looks like he got it going. Nice basic amp, but question the 800 watt rating tho.
a very low end amp tho
✌ 🎸
My advice Is, never trust a so called engineer that refers to current as amperage. It's the first indicator that they have a very limited understanding of what they are doing.
Not sure I get your comment. But if I follow your statement correctly then you are mistaken as current is measured in amps. Pls take the time to correct me if I am wrong. I am a novice.
thai repairer are way more pro skilled than you homer simpsons 😄
What a pile of crap. Lesson one: buy a decent amp in the first place. This is not worth repairing.
50 watt crap amplifier
very good tutorial sir @clarkmixvlog
What track was that you played at end ?