Oh my gosh... at 10:00 when it smooths out that roughed contour... so beautiful. Such a good video in terms of all the different things that are done. great parts. I hope we continue to get videos like this when you move to mexico.
I got a big kick and a bit of an "a-ha" moment out of when you turned your mill-turn into a shaper with that parting tool. I can now imagine some pretty bizarre lathe setups for keyways. I'm sure you realized it after but it seemed like you had plenty of space above and below to give the machine more time to accelerate into/out of that cut. All I want for Christmas is more Edge Precision videos! Luckily I've still got much of your back catalog to go through...
Love your videos. On your rain-x problem I have a potential and relatively cheap solution. Use an in line oil lubricator. The kind in your air system. Run rain-x in it instead of oil. You can meter how much you want with the adjustment knob on top.
Wondering if you had any tips for standing on the concrete floors as long as you have. Mats, shoes, exercises you’ve found helpful? The years have really taken a toll on my feet and ankles. Great work as always- huge fan!! Thank you
A Fogbuster might be a slick way to add RainX to the air stream. Also for a thin walled aluminum part were making at a previous shop, the programmer had to add pretty generous room for acceleration and deceleration so he could get proper chipload at higher RPM. You could go even further with loopy linking moves, but the madness has to stop somewhere.
It would have been easier just to saw it in the band saw. But I had this idea and wanted to try it. If we do everything the easy way and don’t try different things. How do we learn?
The idea was good always good thinking outside the cube The Mfg you do with oil parts Is outstanding in my mind How long does it usually take you to set up and run tool paths
Re direction of rotation 12:40, I have chipped more teeth this way than any other, primarily when using a boring bar to chamfer/taper a part via the back side. There is so much to check nothing to be left to chance, give him an opportunity & he will take foul advantage of it.
It’s more a case of the hole than the depth. Does the hole need to be held to a close size and finish. Is it intersecting other holes. What is the material. These are the things I’m lookin for a gundrill to do. Also if I break a gundrill. So far in all these years using them I have never not been able to get the broken drill out of the hole. With long coolant feed twist drills if you break the tool deep in your pretty much screwed. I can also resharpen a gundrill much easer.
@@juandelaluz2196 In aluminum I would probably go for a gun drill if the hole was greater than 30x deep. Also if location was critical and straightness. A gundrill will generally drill a straighter hole than a twist drill.
The way they get that level of rotary resolution is through running servos through planetary 10:1 gear boxes. Increases the Torque by that ration as well. They might have a 20:1 or two 10:1 in series. One being double the other x100. Couple that with a very good encoder on a high quality servo and you have an amazingly accurate rotation graduation. It comes at the expense of backlash but its in 0.x arch seconds so for the most part outside of what you could even measure on standard equipment
Yes I agree with you this is one way to accomplish this. But I have looked at the servos and the drawings on this machine and they don’t have any gear boxes on them. They must have very high resolution encoders and servo systems. The B axis also has what they call a cam roller worm drive. Witch they claim has zero backlash. The C axis has a worm drive. That is coupled and decoupled giving the ability to turn like a lathe and mill. I have jogged the C and B axis reading it will a .0001” indicator. And they do have this high resolution ability.
It is difficult on these kind of moves to visualize the movements. It may appear that one axis is stopped waiting on others but that’s not actually what’s happening. The movements may be small and hard to see.
I wouldnt be concerned about the voice quality at all. The entire video sounded perfectly fine to me. The information and data you provide would be worth translating your video's from some martian language. RE: the rain-x, sounds paranoid, but given the level of work you produce would you be concerned with Rain-X contaminating or doing something to your coolant or the seals/components in your machine? Im continually concerned with introducing contaminants into my work though Im dealing with applied finishes.
How many hours do you have on that Mazak? You are very comfortable with it. You were talking about setup when the machine is cold. How much does the machine move in say Z - axis when the bell screws and hydraulic oil get warmed up? I’ve notice on mine ( different machine ) that after 4 hours it stabilizes, wear offsets maybe .003 during this time to account for thermal growth.
This machine has oil cooled lead screws. It has a chiller for this and the milling spindle. The turning spindle has its own separate chiller. It doesn't move at all in Z but X and Y can vary about .001" between cold and warmed up. There may be some kind of thermal comp in the control. My Mitsubishi horizontal mill has thermal sensors in the machines casting to compensate for this.
Not to disagree with AVE. But even the rotating window Idea would have problems with the coolant. What I have found is If I can keep the window wet the picture stays clearer. Even with the rotating glass if it drys out with coolant residue it will obscure the view (Look at his videos when he is filming through his rotating window. It would be better if he had a small coolant nozzle spraying coolant on it). I have been experimenting with spraying Rain-X into the air line and this makes the window clearer because it remains wet. Just coolant may also work but I haven't tried that yet. There may be a few droplets flowing across the image but it's still good enough to see.
That parting tool is genius. What cycle did you use for That in esprit? I have a loosly toleranced internal key to machine on an up coming job, think that would work for at least roughing? I have a y axis blade with a tip in the right orientation:)
Its just a couture milling cycle with no cutter comp and extremely shallow depth of cut (.002"). When I process the code I just delete the spindle on commands and speed in the G code. For this particular setup I had to use a fixture offset to shift the Y axis over. The normal lathe offset on My Mazak wont work for that in the Y direction with the tool oriented that way. Because this tool holder isn't on the spindles centerline. If you are doing this in the Z axis there isn't really a standard milling cycle you can use. I have done it by making a very simple sub program in the incremental mode and repleting it the required number of times to get to the target point. I will be showing how to do this in the up coming videos on this part.
Your ac is a dehumidifier. Maybe you have a lot of air leaks in your building. There isn’t really a place more humid than Houston. We don’t have a lot of trouble with rust in the shop.
Dunno how this ended up on my feed but I'm not complaining. Watching your video with the drill bushing modifications while working on my own project gave me a 'duh' moment that helped me out so that was cool. Your comments about 'found this piece of scrap that came in handy' really doesn't help my scrounging packrat tendencies though.. why do you back the machine tap off while hand tapping? I was under the impression that you weren't supposed to reverse until it was at depth..
Mighty fancy shaper you are running there Peter :) Do you think cutting some air above / below the slot would have helped get the acceleration / surface speed up enough?
What I think might help is to not have the rapid movements in the cycle. When a machine shifts from feed mode to rapid there can be a slight hesitation. Sometimes the movement is a lot smoother if just left in the feed mode with high feed rates. I will need to try this and see.
Great parts as always, thanks for the video. Nice bit of broaching on your Mazak, to make it work better perhaps a small subroutine with rapid G00 commands starting a little way off the part maybe 2" would give it time to accelerate. I don't think the machine position (G64 / G61.1) overrides accelerations rapid commands, this wouldn't be a good idea on a blind pocket but going straight through like you did would up the surface speed and might just finish the job quicker too :-)
If I ever do this again. I need to experiment with different settings. It may make things smoother to just eliminate the rapids and do everything with high feed rates. Sometimes that works better than having the rapid movements in short distances.
The diameter makes no difference to rotary resolution. It is a angular measurement not a size. Now the error will be larger at bigger diameters not smaller. So it is good at bigger diameters to have a finer resolution.
Possibly. I think in this case on the C axis there is a worm gear that is driven by the worm on the servo motor. I believe the encoder is on the servo motors shaft. All Mazaks use Mitsubishi servo and electrics. So what ever their encoders have in resolution being reduced by the worm drive is what it must be. The B axis has a cam roller worm drive. to help eliminate backlash and be able to move at high speeds. But is also has the encoder on the servo motors shaft.
wouldn't that circular cutter you use for parting have been enough for the split cutting as well, as you could have done it from the side and not the front. also for the parting surface speed, if you would give it a bit more space to accelerate it might have gotten up to the speed, would have taken even longer tough. super cool video though!
Thanks, Yes the cutter could have been used from the side of the part. But it is thicker than I wanted and would have also required cutting into the material behind the part, closer to the chuck (witch I didn't want to do). There may also have been the need to extend its shank for clearance on the spindles face with the chuck jaws.
Not this indicator arm combination. I have tested it in the horizontal position. I need to make a video on this subject to show how gravity affects different indicators and arm combinations.
I typically spot drill for all drills. Especially long ones. For tap drills your going to chamfer the hole anyway so why not spot and chamfer all at once. Someday I need to do a video on spot drilling and why and what angle to use. Also what happens to the holes entry with and without a spot drill. And why you shouldn't use a lathe center drill to spot drill for drills.
@@EdgePrecision Cheers for the reply. In the shop I work at, which is where i served my apprenticeship 8 years ago. I was origionally taught to not spot carbide drills due to them being self centering and for the likelihood of the edges of the drill chipping. If we are going more than 5xD, then we use a pilot drill with the same angle for the longer drill to follow. Do you use 90degree spot drills? or are they the same angle as the drills you use? If so, this works ok? It's good you mention why you shouldn't use lathe center drills to spot holes, beause I was also taught if I have to spot say a HSS jobber drill, to use a centre drill as the angle is 120degrees which is closer to the 118degree angle of the drills we buy in. Could you please advise what has worked best in your experience?
@@amberrubiks9233 That's exactly how I do it, we drill thousands of holes every day with 6 and 8 spindle machines. No spot drilling until about 5-6xD, but it depends on the drill and other things also. Spot drill always has a larger angle if you're spotting for carbide drill. For one of jobs or few holes, who cares, but optimally that's what you'd want to do.
This machine will only go to 1600 rpm in high range and 460 rpm in low. So unless the part is large or running off center out of balance it not really a problem. On this part I had it set at 1500 max. But when I'm running a part in the steady rest I do limit the rpm because it can damage the steadies roller bearings. Especially if I have the steadies clamp pressure up high.
This is their spec. .0001 degree so I have to take them at their word. But just jogging the machine in the finest mode I can see the difference between .001 and .0001 increment.
If those fixture parts are unique to the job and you don't want to keep them around you could probably ebay them and raise a little money for a good cause.
Hey Peter, I really like watching your videos and learn how you approach some things. But could you please try and do something about the really bad voice quality? This really sounds like extremely high compressed audio/low bitrate and reminds me of "Microsoft Sam" if anyone remembers from Windows XP...
On this machine with its automatic doors there is no way. Even if you take the switch dogs off and put the permanently in the switches. You will get a alarm because it looks at the switches when the doors open and close. You will even get a time out alarm if they take to long. The only way would be to rewrite the ladder diagram in the control. And no machine sales place would do that because of the safety liability involved.
I guess getting a decent electrical engineer, that will make a simple controller to sense/disconnect door motor voltages and send appropriate voltages to the endstops (with time offsets) might be possible. It might take just few hours to hack it, so it could be disabled/enabled by switch.
Unrelated to everything, I’m looking at what’s going to happen to my stocks, tools, and machines upon my death. It’s easily a million dollars yet would bring almost nothing at auction. The buyer would be years realizing what they bought. What are you thoughts on what should become of your things? I know this is very personal but so many of us are near our early sixties and need to think about these things. Our wives deserve some effort now to lessen their anguish when the time comes. They deserve to know our wishes. It’s up to us to decide and unfair to burden them with this.
Edge Precision I know that in my heart. I’d so much prefer to be alone than leave her alone. It’s been my job to take care of her and I’ll die with that. She’s type 1 diabetic so she will die in my arms. But just in case I need to have a plan b. We all fuss over 0.0001 and finishes but we are better husbands than we will ever be machinists.
The only channel where the setup fixtures are 10x more complex than anyone else's final product. lol. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Thank you for another inspiring video :) 12:37 I love the you don't cut out the amusing counter rotation
he is so chilled :D
your creativity and skills, sir, are even beyond the class of your machines. Cheers from Italy.
Making tooling like this for a job is where most of the fun is. Nice work man.
I wish the thing you do at 1:17 would happen more often at my workplace.
Amazing just how much work goes into the production of the items you build.
Nicely done for sure!
Thanks for the video.
Edge precision is my favorite channel on RUclips!
Se acaba el 2019 y tus videos cada dia mas interesantes..gracias por tu tiempo y tu enorme conocimiento..un ejemplo que muchos deberian seguir.
Oh my gosh... at 10:00 when it smooths out that roughed contour... so beautiful. Such a good video in terms of all the different things that are done. great parts. I hope we continue to get videos like this when you move to mexico.
When it comes to Mexico I don’t know. But coming shortly a video on how this fixture is to be used.
Amazing machine and programming. You are the Boss on that machine . 👍👍👍
CNC shaper! I learn a lot watching your content, it's such an interesting job and you are so knowledgeable - thank you for taking the time to share!
Genius way to use that parting tool as a broach! Love your videos keep em coming!
Always awesome to see a new video from you.
Even your fixtures are works of art Peter. Looks awesome
Beautiful work!!! I really enjoy watching your videos!
Glad you have more than one of these to do. That would be a ton of work for a one off.
Outstanding camera angles. Thanks Peter. Very enjoyable.
Cuts better when you run it the right direction 🤣🤣🤣. Love your videos man! Keep 'em comming 👍
Your work sure is beautiful. Absolute art.
Thanks I appreciate that!
I am so proud of the great work you do, you never fail being be a great inspiration!👼🏻🙏🏼👼🏻🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸
iLove your good work ) thank u for upload
I don’t miss a single sec fo this channel.
That calm cool, “works better when you rotate the spindle the right way”. Thanks Peter, the content you produce is amazing.
Haha love the POV scenes moving the part around!
Great voiceover. Interesting, informative.
Very interesting, Thank you for your time,Michael
You are the fucken Yoda of fixtures, Peter!
Awesome content mate!
I got a big kick and a bit of an "a-ha" moment out of when you turned your mill-turn into a shaper with that parting tool. I can now imagine some pretty bizarre lathe setups for keyways. I'm sure you realized it after but it seemed like you had plenty of space above and below to give the machine more time to accelerate into/out of that cut.
All I want for Christmas is more Edge Precision videos! Luckily I've still got much of your back catalog to go through...
For keyways PH Horn makes specific broaching tools. I've seen (but never used) coolant-operated high speed broaching heads as well.
Out of boundry idea sir👌👌👌
Grooving tool can handle heavy intermediate cuts,i did it practically
that 45 degree operation was freeking cool!
Interesting solution with the parting tool, using it as a chisel
Mazak makes the world's most expensive shaper
Thanks Peter. I like your Videos very much!
A Beautiful swarf finish . 👌
you are smart and good at what you do. thanks.
...moc pěkné, čistá práce👏👏👏
Love your videos. On your rain-x problem I have a potential and relatively cheap solution. Use an in line oil lubricator. The kind in your air system. Run rain-x in it instead of oil. You can meter how much you want with the adjustment knob on top.
That 5-axis move though!
Nice! Part 3!
Wondering if you had any tips for standing on the concrete floors as long as you have. Mats, shoes, exercises you’ve found helpful? The years have really taken a toll on my feet and ankles. Great work as always- huge fan!! Thank you
I still dont know what will it be but your work is very nice
I kinda liked the finish from the saw when you were parting them off. But either way, always fantastic work.
Very nice. First time I have seen a Mazak shaper haha
Just WOW. you know what you are doing :D
Awsome Job!
A Fogbuster might be a slick way to add RainX to the air stream. Also for a thin walled aluminum part were making at a previous shop, the programmer had to add pretty generous room for acceleration and deceleration so he could get proper chipload at higher RPM. You could go even further with loopy linking moves, but the madness has to stop somewhere.
Love the cap camera
another top video.
I used a parting tool as a broach before it’s nice to see someone else try it
Wouldn’t it had been easier to do this part in a mill
It would have been easier just to saw it in the band saw. But I had this idea and wanted to try it. If we do everything the easy way and don’t try different things. How do we learn?
The idea was good always good thinking outside the cube
The Mfg you do with oil parts
Is outstanding in my mind
How long does it usually take you to set up and run tool paths
Always interesting !!
Re direction of rotation 12:40, I have chipped more teeth this way than any other, primarily when using a boring bar to chamfer/taper a part via the back side.
There is so much to check nothing to be left to chance, give him an opportunity & he will take foul advantage of it.
Excellent
The world's first five axis shaper.
Hi. Did you want to know what CAM you used in the multi-axis machining part?
Excellent work!
I used Esprit Cam to program this part.
I am hooked to your channel thank you and please keep them videos coming. If I may at what hole depth would you recommend using a gun drill?
It’s more a case of the hole than the depth. Does the hole need to be held to a close size and finish. Is it intersecting other holes. What is the material. These are the things I’m lookin for a gundrill to do. Also if I break a gundrill. So far in all these years using them I have never not been able to get the broken drill out of the hole. With long coolant feed twist drills if you break the tool deep in your pretty much screwed. I can also resharpen a gundrill much easer.
@@EdgePrecision OK then, I don’t have to hold a close size or finish and it’s not intersecting other holes, the material is aluminum
@@juandelaluz2196 In aluminum I would probably go for a gun drill if the hole was greater than 30x deep. Also if location was critical and straightness. A gundrill will generally drill a straighter hole than a twist drill.
@@EdgePrecision Thank you
The way they get that level of rotary resolution is through running servos through planetary 10:1 gear boxes. Increases the Torque by that ration as well. They might have a 20:1 or two 10:1 in series. One being double the other x100. Couple that with a very good encoder on a high quality servo and you have an amazingly accurate rotation graduation. It comes at the expense of backlash but its in 0.x arch seconds so for the most part outside of what you could even measure on standard equipment
Yes I agree with you this is one way to accomplish this. But I have looked at the servos and the drawings on this machine and they don’t have any gear boxes on them. They must have very high resolution encoders and servo systems. The B axis also has what they call a cam roller worm drive. Witch they claim has zero backlash. The C axis has a worm drive. That is coupled and decoupled giving the ability to turn like a lathe and mill. I have jogged the C and B axis reading it will a .0001” indicator. And they do have this high resolution ability.
On the 5axis move why is there no tool mark where the end mill has stopped moving waiting on the other axis’s to start new move?
It is difficult on these kind of moves to visualize the movements. It may appear that one axis is stopped waiting on others but that’s not actually what’s happening. The movements may be small and hard to see.
I wouldnt be concerned about the voice quality at all. The entire video sounded perfectly fine to me. The information and data you provide would be worth translating your video's from some martian language.
RE: the rain-x, sounds paranoid, but given the level of work you produce would you be concerned with Rain-X contaminating or doing something to your coolant or the seals/components in your machine? Im continually concerned with introducing contaminants into my work though Im dealing with applied finishes.
do you manually setup the tools in their holder or does the machine some how do it? like your channel thanks
No the machine can’t setup a tool in a holder. I have to do that manually. Than touch it off to the appropriate offset.
fascinating
How many hours do you have on that Mazak?
You are very comfortable with it.
You were talking about setup when the machine is cold. How much does the machine move in say Z - axis when the bell screws and hydraulic oil get warmed up?
I’ve notice on mine ( different machine ) that after 4 hours it stabilizes, wear offsets maybe .003 during this time to account for thermal growth.
This machine has oil cooled lead screws. It has a chiller for this and the milling spindle. The turning spindle has its own separate chiller. It doesn't move at all in Z but X and Y can vary about .001" between cold and warmed up. There may be some kind of thermal comp in the control. My Mitsubishi horizontal mill has thermal sensors in the machines casting to compensate for this.
AvE never got around to sending the rotating window prototype for Peter to try?
Not to disagree with AVE. But even the rotating window Idea would have problems with the coolant. What I have found is If I can keep the window wet the picture stays clearer. Even with the rotating glass if it drys out with coolant residue it will obscure the view (Look at his videos when he is filming through his rotating window. It would be better if he had a small coolant nozzle spraying coolant on it). I have been experimenting with spraying Rain-X into the air line and this makes the window clearer because it remains wet. Just coolant may also work but I haven't tried that yet. There may be a few droplets flowing across the image but it's still good enough to see.
That parting tool is genius. What cycle did you use for That in esprit?
I have a loosly toleranced internal key to machine on an up coming job, think that would work for at least roughing?
I have a y axis blade with a tip in the right orientation:)
Its just a couture milling cycle with no cutter comp and extremely shallow depth of cut (.002"). When I process the code I just delete the spindle on commands and speed in the G code. For this particular setup I had to use a fixture offset to shift the Y axis over. The normal lathe offset on My Mazak wont work for that in the Y direction with the tool oriented that way. Because this tool holder isn't on the spindles centerline. If you are doing this in the Z axis there isn't really a standard milling cycle you can use. I have done it by making a very simple sub program in the incremental mode and repleting it the required number of times to get to the target point. I will be showing how to do this in the up coming videos on this part.
@@EdgePrecision Yeah that's what i was thinking as you have a very similar internal keyway upcoming. :)
I have HVAC but still get rust in weird humid weather around 70 degrees. I’m thinking that I need to install a big dehumidifier. Do you agree?
Your ac is a dehumidifier. Maybe you have a lot of air leaks in your building. There isn’t really a place more humid than Houston. We don’t have a lot of trouble with rust in the shop.
A parting tool is a saw with one tooth!! ;--) Regards, Matthew.
Those multi insert circular saws are expensive, maybe one could just spin a parting tool like a fly cutter :D
a broach. or shaper tool
@@gearloose703 One can!
Dunno how this ended up on my feed but I'm not complaining. Watching your video with the drill bushing modifications while working on my own project gave me a 'duh' moment that helped me out so that was cool. Your comments about 'found this piece of scrap that came in handy' really doesn't help my scrounging packrat tendencies though.. why do you back the machine tap off while hand tapping? I was under the impression that you weren't supposed to reverse until it was at depth..
Mighty fancy shaper you are running there Peter :)
Do you think cutting some air above / below the slot would have helped get the acceleration / surface speed up enough?
What I think might help is to not have the rapid movements in the cycle. When a machine shifts from feed mode to rapid there can be a slight hesitation. Sometimes the movement is a lot smoother if just left in the feed mode with high feed rates. I will need to try this and see.
The NSK grinder, where do you find that? When I search I see a bunch of dental grinders. Would love to pick on of those up.
Great parts as always, thanks for the video. Nice bit of broaching on your Mazak, to make it work better perhaps a small subroutine with rapid G00 commands starting a little way off the part maybe 2" would give it time to accelerate. I don't think the machine position (G64 / G61.1) overrides accelerations rapid commands, this wouldn't be a good idea on a blind pocket but going straight through like you did would up the surface speed and might just finish the job quicker too :-)
If I ever do this again. I need to experiment with different settings. It may make things smoother to just eliminate the rapids and do everything with high feed rates. Sometimes that works better than having the rapid movements in short distances.
no keep bit for the door?
Love the shaping action :-)
Also, that pocket counts as 5 axis in my book. Don't under sell it!
Yup, nice swarf cut
I think Mazak can get that rotary resolution on that machine because the chuck is much larger than on like an HRT210.
The diameter makes no difference to rotary resolution. It is a angular measurement not a size. Now the error will be larger at bigger diameters not smaller. So it is good at bigger diameters to have a finer resolution.
@@EdgePrecision yea your right. But wouldn't the encoder be bigger also therefore easier to get fine resolution?
Possibly. I think in this case on the C axis there is a worm gear that is driven by the worm on the servo motor. I believe the encoder is on the servo motors shaft. All Mazaks use Mitsubishi servo and electrics. So what ever their encoders have in resolution being reduced by the worm drive is what it must be. The B axis has a cam roller worm drive. to help eliminate backlash and be able to move at high speeds. But is also has the encoder on the servo motors shaft.
@@EdgePrecision ok that makes more sense now
wouldn't that circular cutter you use for parting have been enough for the split cutting as well, as you could have done it from the side and not the front. also for the parting surface speed, if you would give it a bit more space to accelerate it might have gotten up to the speed, would have taken even longer tough. super cool video though!
Thanks, Yes the cutter could have been used from the side of the part. But it is thicker than I wanted and would have also required cutting into the material behind the part, closer to the chuck (witch I didn't want to do). There may also have been the need to extend its shank for clearance on the spindles face with the chuck jaws.
Muy buen mecanizado
You adjusted x and y about .001”? You would probably get more sag from top to bottom on you indicator.
Not this indicator arm combination. I have tested it in the horizontal position. I need to make a video on this subject to show how gravity affects different indicators and arm combinations.
I’ll be interested to see this video. I normally hold any indicator as short and solid as possible.
Maybe I'm missing something, but why do you spot carbide drills?
I typically spot drill for all drills. Especially long ones. For tap drills your going to chamfer the hole anyway so why not spot and chamfer all at once. Someday I need to do a video on spot drilling and why and what angle to use. Also what happens to the holes entry with and without a spot drill. And why you shouldn't use a lathe center drill to spot drill for drills.
@@EdgePrecision Cheers for the reply. In the shop I work at, which is where i served my apprenticeship 8 years ago. I was origionally taught to not spot carbide drills due to them being self centering and for the likelihood of the edges of the drill chipping. If we are going more than 5xD, then we use a pilot drill with the same angle for the longer drill to follow. Do you use 90degree spot drills? or are they the same angle as the drills you use? If so, this works ok?
It's good you mention why you shouldn't use lathe center drills to spot holes, beause I was also taught if I have to spot say a HSS jobber drill, to use a centre drill as the angle is 120degrees which is closer to the 118degree angle of the drills we buy in. Could you please advise what has worked best in your experience?
@@amberrubiks9233 That's exactly how I do it, we drill thousands of holes every day with 6 and 8 spindle machines. No spot drilling until about 5-6xD, but it depends on the drill and other things also. Spot drill always has a larger angle if you're spotting for carbide drill. For one of jobs or few holes, who cares, but optimally that's what you'd want to do.
What in the max rpm in this machine?
The turning spindle will go a max speed of 1600 rpm and the milling spindle will turn 10,000 rpm.
What do you set your max spindle speed to when turning the face?
This machine will only go to 1600 rpm in high range and 460 rpm in low. So unless the part is large or running off center out of balance it not really a problem. On this part I had it set at 1500 max. But when I'm running a part in the steady rest I do limit the rpm because it can damage the steadies roller bearings. Especially if I have the steadies clamp pressure up high.
@@EdgePrecision Interesting, that chuck looks pretty big, 1600 rpm is plenty enough speed for the size of the work you do.
,,, how do you keep'em honest, at one ten thousandth of a degree ?
This is their spec. .0001 degree so I have to take them at their word. But just jogging the machine in the finest mode I can see the difference between .001 and .0001 increment.
1:05 Real-time, melting through it.
If those fixture parts are unique to the job and you don't want to keep them around you could probably ebay them and raise a little money for a good cause.
nice
Отличный канал. Жаль, что не знаю язык, было бы еще интереснее
Nice :D
Hey Peter, I really like watching your videos and learn how you approach some things.
But could you please try and do something about the really bad voice quality? This really sounds like extremely high compressed audio/low bitrate and reminds me of "Microsoft Sam" if anyone remembers from Windows XP...
Yes I know. I think the mic was acting up. I should have rerecorded the voice over. I will work on this. Thanks.
Sound OK in Connecticut.
I had a giggle when you only started the tap and went a little way in, I do the Same thing for one off parts
I’m surprised theres no way to bypass the open door interlock.
There is, but it contains the operator being soaked in the coolant.
On this machine with its automatic doors there is no way. Even if you take the switch dogs off and put the permanently in the switches. You will get a alarm because it looks at the switches when the doors open and close. You will even get a time out alarm if they take to long. The only way would be to rewrite the ladder diagram in the control. And no machine sales place would do that because of the safety liability involved.
I guess getting a decent electrical engineer, that will make a simple controller to sense/disconnect door motor voltages and send appropriate voltages to the endstops (with time offsets) might be possible. It might take just few hours to hack it, so it could be disabled/enabled by switch.
Always bugs me when people leave stuff on the saw
Unrelated to everything, I’m looking at what’s going to happen to my stocks, tools, and machines upon my death. It’s easily a million dollars yet would bring almost nothing at auction. The buyer would be years realizing what they bought. What are you thoughts on what should become of your things? I know this is very personal but so many of us are near our early sixties and need to think about these things. Our wives deserve some effort now to lessen their anguish when the time comes. They deserve to know our wishes. It’s up to us to decide and unfair to burden them with this.
You are just going to out live your wife. Start taking care of yourself. Or sell everything now.
Edge Precision I know that in my heart. I’d so much prefer to be alone than leave her alone. It’s been my job to take care of her and I’ll die with that. She’s type 1 diabetic so she will die in my arms. But just in case I need to have a plan b. We all fuss over 0.0001 and finishes but we are better husbands than we will ever be machinists.
Yes it is important to be a good steward with our money for our loved ones.
Cool. And that ain’t the part. It’s just a part to make the part.
Your shop is not climate controlled?
Yes it has air conditioning but no heat. Don’t really need it in Houston most of the time.
Ok man i surrender 😢