Hi Chris as a old fart that grew up wiring NPN transistor switches, I do have to say that the drawings and build are correct and work as you know, your audio instructions are wrong. The pin out of a Tip 120 from left too right is Base - Collector - Emitter. The Emitter of a NPN switch always goes to ground and is called a ground emitter switch. You have it built right, but explained it all wrong. No biggie but it will confuse the heck out of those that are learning how to use components like this. Great job on adding a working fan controller to the printer and showing others how to do it as well . Love your content. Keep up the great work.
Chris your channel content is great and your on screen personality is very good, so do not worry about making errors, we all do and we all learn from it.
Helpful would be a LOG BUILD playlist. Everything you do to LOG in one place. I’m doing fine tuning in marlin now. Hope to be done in a week or so. IM DOING THIS FOR SURE!!!
Nice video, very well explained. This gave me inspiration for what I could use the second free PWM-controllable FAN output on my RRD fan extender board...
I had to get one for my dual-extrusion setup on the Anet A8 to be able to run a parts-cooling fan. They are more on the expensive side (compared to the other Chinese electronics).
Hi Chris, sorry if this question is really stupid, but could this work if you use a 3 pin fan and connect the ramps pin directly to the signal cable on the fan?
No worries at all, usually the 3 wire fans have a yellow wire, that's for RPM feedback and you probably don't need it. So no, still have to power switch it some how.
Hi @Chris Riley, just discovering your channel. Congratulations for the good work! I liked the Marlin 1.1.9 Linear Advance video the most. Very clear explanation, thank you. A couple of months ago I've get rid of that annoying noise using a thermistor based circuit. The advantage is that we don't need to hookup it in the main board (for the ones that don't use RAMPS, etc.). The transistor also barely warms due to the configuration I've used. If you didn't saw it already, please consider checking the project in my page at Instructables web site. If you want, I can put the link here. Not difficult to find anyway.
I use ATX PSU though that would be cool. Nice to be able to set up and control the PSU on/off with Marlin and Gcode as well. I would like to see your design.
Is there a way to set up a fan curve in marlin? I don't think the fan needs to spin as fast to cool the hotend at 200 degrees celsius as it does to cool 300 degrees celsius.
The TIP120 has a protection diode built-in, so there's no need for the diode in your circuit. As you know, your wiring diagram is correct but the description is misleading due to calling out the wrong pin designations.
I just thought the same. I'm an avionics electrical engineer and the middle pin is not the base but the collector. Maybe you should pin a comment on that scene, as your wiring diagram is correct, but your explanation is irritating for electronics technicians 🙊
I have an MKS Gen L board, and I want to control my hotend, and two other case fans by software (as only one, not individually) as you showed here. Can't I just use the second extruder output to achieve this without having to use an external transistor?
Nice educational video, thanks! As a clean solution though, please do get the fan extender module on a Chinese website for like $2, auto cools the hotend and the RAMPS board.
Sorry about that, here you go and I have updated it. www.amazon.com/20PCS-1N4004-Rectifier-Diode-DO-204AL/dp/B07PCNTBDP/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2_sspa?keywords=diode+4004-r&qid=1558622842&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1
"You will fry your mainboard" Well, a little bit at least. I was lucky enough to only fry one of my analog pins, which I managed to bodge to another pin to get my hotbed sensor up and running again. It's bad news tho.
I was just talking to some one about making a add on to only turn on the fan when hot end is hot and need cooling on cool end. Did not know is already built in to control it. Do you know if there are a unused control pin like the pin 6 you use on the Anet A8 board? Also I guess this is like adding a mosfet to pin 6 to allow it to control higher current device like a fan?
@@ChrisRiley I've no basement :-D so printed a couple of adapters for 45mm fàns I've had laying around, I've to keep the family peace :-D love the channel, great work Chris!! Well done!!
@@ChrisRiley so ı make two diffirent module? ı cant make one module like fan extender?btw ı wanna use it for stepper driver fan and led. for hotend extruder ı used second hotend input.
Thanks! Sure! You would have to work in another thermistor or sensor. There is a enclosure fan option I think. You might check that out. Thanks for watching!
You don’t even have to make it an auto fan pin, there is also a ‘controller’ fan setting that will turn on when the steppers are active, just stick it on a digital pin next to the auto fan, I think there’s D4,5,6 and 11 on that same header. An you can buy boards on AliExpress that are about 50p (uk) a pop, that have the mosfet and supporting circuitry and screw terminal headers on! That’s how many was set up on my last printer, along with LEDs also!
Hi Chris! very interesting video, I'm a bit late. I came back to this video to add some ramps controlled fan for the board and for the hotend, and i thought: Can I also add a led strip this way? shoud work fine, right? Tom has done a video on it!! anyway thank you for your channel !
Hello Chris, Nice tut, I Have this running on my Ramps 1.4 board, but also have a MKS base 1.4 board with a BLtouch, but can't get this to work because apparently I can't find the right pin on the board (There's not a lot of info to find for this board: www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-part-parts-MKS-Base-V1-4-V1-5-Control-Board-materinskaya-plata-Mega-2560/32838903903.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.7e9015d00tMrLU&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10068_319_317_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_431_10304_10307_10820_10821_10301_537_536_10843_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_53,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=98982d27-f71f-4eff-8b2e-15b79735e0cd-0&algo_pvid=98982d27-f71f-4eff-8b2e-15b79735e0cd&transAbTest=ae803_5) can you assist?
@@ChrisRiley thanks for your reply,but That's not it realy, the image you provide is another board than the I showed you in the url. And That's just the problem, I Can't find pin 6 on that specific board. The documentation for that board is hard to find if any. The reason why I bought this board was because the ramps 1.4 board did strange things with the 3dtouch. The pin just flips up and down during movement of the x and y axis. Otherwise I would be using that board. Perhaps you got an idea how to solve that "jitter" problem?
@@drebodok2556 Well that's to bad, I hate when they don't give all the info. They have a servo pin on there listed as 6, I guess this isn't correct either? Do you have Marlin setup to use MKS or RAMPS? The jitter problem, not sure there, sounds like something is crossed on the shield for sure.
@@ChrisRiley Yes, I agree and find it very akward that such simple information isn't given by the factory of reseller as if that's a pirate chest with goodies they don't want to share, afraid someone might steal it :). I've ben using the MKS 1.3 in the setup which uses that same pin file and that includes the pins_ramps file, so it's likely to very compatible (as also stated by the reseller). So selecting the pins is not a problem, just to identify the pins on the board is. As for the jitter, just connected the 3 wired connector on servo0 and the 2wired one to the z-min endstop, so there's not much to cross I would say unless you mean that a used pin for the probe system has double functionality configurated by mistake? I've build me a UM2 Exteded Plus system with ramps electronics and just used twisted-pair wires (from UTP cables) to create the connection between the electronics and the printhead stuff and also the probe. Perhaps such long wires should be shielded for the probe? Previously I also tried it with a servo as a probe system which was also connected on the board like the touch probe (Servo0 and X-min) and the servo did also jitter,. So it feels like it's the wiring is picking up interference from somewhere. any ideas on that?
@@drebodok2556 Agree, it sounds like some sort of interference, but it's probably a crossed trace of something like that on the ramps board. You might try cleaning up some of the solder joints with a brush. Maybe there is some slight over solder or something. I wish I could tell you how to locate the pins on your other board. Other than searching around with a multi meter.
Hi Chris as a old fart that grew up wiring NPN transistor switches, I do have to say that the drawings and build are correct and work as you know, your audio instructions are wrong. The pin out of a Tip 120 from left too right is Base - Collector - Emitter. The Emitter of a NPN switch always goes to ground and is called a ground emitter switch. You have it built right, but explained it all wrong. No biggie but it will confuse the heck out of those that are learning how to use components like this. Great job on adding a working fan controller to the printer and showing others how to do it as well . Love your content. Keep up the great work.
Robothut agreed: cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/TIP120.pdf
You are right, i totally screwed that up.Well crap, I blew this one. Maybe they can watch with the sound off.
Thank you both, I updated the description and added the link to this PDF. I am just glad someone is actually paying attention in these videos. ;)
Chris your channel content is great and your on screen personality is very good, so do not worry about making errors, we all do and we all learn from it.
I appreciate it man, I really do.
Helpful would be a LOG BUILD playlist. Everything you do to LOG in one place.
I’m doing fine tuning in marlin now. Hope to be done in a week or so.
IM DOING THIS FOR SURE!!!
Sure, great idea! I will put one together.
Hi Chris, the Tip 120 is a darlington Transistor and includes the freerunning Diode. So you do not need the 1N4004 Diode extra.
Thank you for the comment. This is good info to have.
I completed my Hot End Fan Mod and it works great! THANK YOU!
also using LOG marlin firmware from you.
still setting up but getting close.
Very nice! Glad it's working for you.
I was calling you out on Twitter today. Oh wait, this is the only way you get information..... lol. Great Video again sir....
See, it's great, I can get called out and I don't even know it.
Nice video, very well explained. This gave me inspiration for what I could use the second free PWM-controllable FAN output on my RRD fan extender board...
I was checking out those extender boards, that look very handy, might have to get me one.
I had to get one for my dual-extrusion setup on the Anet A8 to be able to run a parts-cooling fan. They are more on the expensive side (compared to the other Chinese electronics).
Awesome! So much quieter that way!
So much better now man, I don't have to go shut it off every time I want to start recording a video.
Hi Chris, sorry if this question is really stupid, but could this work if you use a 3 pin fan and connect the ramps pin directly to the signal cable on the fan?
No worries at all, usually the 3 wire fans have a yellow wire, that's for RPM feedback and you probably don't need it. So no, still have to power switch it some how.
Hi @Chris Riley, just discovering your channel. Congratulations for the good work! I liked the Marlin 1.1.9 Linear Advance video the most. Very clear explanation, thank you. A couple of months ago I've get rid of that annoying noise using a thermistor based circuit. The advantage is that we don't need to hookup it in the main board (for the ones that don't use RAMPS, etc.). The transistor also barely warms due to the configuration I've used. If you didn't saw it already, please consider checking the project in my page at Instructables web site. If you want, I can put the link here. Not difficult to find anyway.
Awesome, thanks for watching. I would love to check it out, you should be able to post a link here in the comments.
@@ChrisRiley Here it is: www.instructables.com/id/Silent-and-on-Demand-Extruder-Cooling-Fan-Circuit-/
Nice. I went the hardware route and put a Chinese noctua fan on the house end. So it is quiet. PSU and part cooling are my noisy fans.
A PSU fan hooked up this way would be pretty sweet as well. I might work that in to one of my printer designs. If I ever get around to making one.
I use ATX PSU though that would be cool. Nice to be able to set up and control the PSU on/off with Marlin and Gcode as well. I would like to see your design.
PSU on and off is something I have been wanting to look at for a while now.
hi . sorry but if we do not use pin 6 any other one we can use on ramp shield..,
Any of the servo pins should work just fine and probably others, but try for 4 5 or 6.
Is there a way to set up a fan curve in marlin? I don't think the fan needs to spin as fast to cool the hotend at 200 degrees celsius as it does to cool 300 degrees celsius.
No that I know of in Marlin. I have only controlled that in the slicer.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for letting me know so quickly!
Great explanation man, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
The TIP120 has a protection diode built-in, so there's no need for the diode in your circuit. As you know, your wiring diagram is correct but the description is misleading due to calling out the wrong pin designations.
Thanks for the comment and the info. Yes, I boned that one. Better luck next time I guess.
I just thought the same. I'm an avionics electrical engineer and the middle pin is not the base but the collector. Maybe you should pin a comment on that scene, as your wiring diagram is correct, but your explanation is irritating for electronics technicians 🙊
I have an MKS Gen L board, and I want to control my hotend, and two other case fans by software (as only one, not individually) as you showed here.
Can't I just use the second extruder output to achieve this without having to use an external transistor?
Yes, the second extruder heater output will work just fine.
Nice educational video, thanks! As a clean solution though, please do get the fan extender module on a Chinese website for like $2, auto cools the hotend and the RAMPS board.
Thanks! Yes, those are very cool. I need to grab a few. Thanks for watching!
The diode Amazon link is 404. Can you please give me the updated one?
Sorry about that, here you go and I have updated it. www.amazon.com/20PCS-1N4004-Rectifier-Diode-DO-204AL/dp/B07PCNTBDP/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2_sspa?keywords=diode+4004-r&qid=1558622842&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1
@@ChrisRiley thank you. I enjoy your videos. Great content. I learn a lot. Unique. Very credible. Keep up the great work.
using N-channel MOSFET is much much better (no heat)... I will definitely do it for my printer!
Nice!
"You will fry your mainboard"
Well, a little bit at least. I was lucky enough to only fry one of my analog pins, which I managed to bodge to another pin to get my hotbed sensor up and running again.
It's bad news tho.
I have done that a couple of times now. :)
I was just looking for how to do that, thanks a lot for the video
Glad I could help. Thanks for watchig.
Great video as usual
Can you make a video how to resume print when power off automatically with marlin
Mohamed El-Mogy That is a tough one my friend. We still need to pull apart what Crealty did. It's on my list.
Chris Riley i will be waiting :)
Hi Chris, do you know if I can do this on SKR mini e3 v1.2 board? I'm not using the Neopixel LED's, so I have PC7 available.
Sure, you can use that pin the same as here.
I was just talking to some one about making a add on to only turn on the fan when hot end is hot and need cooling on cool end. Did not know is already built in to control it. Do you know if there are a unused control pin like the pin 6 you use on the Anet A8 board? Also I guess this is like adding a mosfet to pin 6 to allow it to control higher current device like a fan?
Not sure on the A8, but I can look around. I think you can jump the pins off the LCD connector. Really it's just a switch passing 12v.
nice. Since I use Repetier, do you know the changes required there ( too lazy right now to investigate. Maybe later )
No, it should work the same, just call out PIN6 when you set repetier up. You will have to reflash the firmware.
them 30x30 fans drive me bananas and I've last warning from my wife :-D
Ha! Yeah, having them off when not printing is much better.
@@ChrisRiley I've no basement :-D so printed a couple of adapters for 45mm fàns I've had laying around, I've to keep the family peace :-D love the channel, great work Chris!! Well done!!
how can ı make it for two fan? for nozzle fan and for stepper fan.
You can just setup 2 of these on different pins. Then update the configuration_adv.h file.
@@ChrisRiley so ı make two diffirent module? ı cant make one module like fan extender?btw ı wanna use it for stepper driver fan and led. for hotend extruder ı used second hotend input.
@@ahmetbozac1861 Yeah, you would have to do 2, one switch per item.
simple question which model of transistor did you use because your link doesnt work for amazon :)
I updated the link, this is a TIP120.
Hi Chris! Very nice and useful video. Could this work for cooling the ramps board?
Thanks! Sure! You would have to work in another thermistor or sensor. There is a enclosure fan option I think. You might check that out. Thanks for watching!
can I make auto fan to cool the power supply or ramps board?
You can, but you need to base it on something. Like your bed or hotend thermistor reading.
@@ChrisRiley i want to put a 3-rd termistor to the ramps. can I?
@@gini10000 Yes, you could use the other exturder thermistor, T1 that would work.
You don’t even have to make it an auto fan pin, there is also a ‘controller’ fan setting that will turn on when the steppers are active, just stick it on a digital pin next to the auto fan, I think there’s D4,5,6 and 11 on that same header. An you can buy boards on AliExpress that are about 50p (uk) a pop, that have the mosfet and supporting circuitry and screw terminal headers on! That’s how many was set up on my last printer, along with LEDs also!
@@captainmcadams Yep, totally agree. I found those mosfet boards and have never looked back.
just wondering, how can I connect this set up to Melzi board (CR10), cheers man
Unfortunately, this board doesn't have any of these pins available.
@@ChrisRiley ok thats explain everything, lol Thanks Chris
Hi Chris! very interesting video, I'm a bit late. I came back to this video to add some ramps controlled fan for the board and for the hotend, and i thought:
Can I also add a led strip this way? shoud work fine, right?
Tom has done a video on it!!
anyway thank you for your channel !
You can add led's the same way, I have a video coming out on that soon.
@@ChrisRiley thank you so much!!
Could this work with a Songle relay that is in most arduino kits? Rated for 12v, 30A
Sure, if its rated for the correct voltage, no issues.
Niiiiiiiiice :) Thank you!
Thank you
como ficaria a ligação sem o diodo??☻
Isso não se traduziu bem para mim. Eu acho que você pode fugir sem usar o diodo.
I can finally turn off that fck fan. Really help me, thanks dude!
Awesome, Watch out on some of the things I explain, they are not 100% correct, but all the diagrams I show will work for you. Good luck!
did not work for me, I used TIP 121 no 120
That's strange, it should work the same as a 120.
@@ChrisRiley agora funcionou,usei pin4
Excelente!
Your transistor pinout is bad.
From left to right: Base, Colector, Emisor.
Base is not in the midde.
Thanks
*throws a copy of kicad at chris* :p
MiggyManMike What Miggy, you don't like my pictures? :)
What can I say, i'm an art critic :p
Hello Chris, Nice tut, I Have this running on my Ramps 1.4 board, but also have a MKS base 1.4 board with a BLtouch, but can't get this to work because apparently I can't find the right pin on the board (There's not a lot of info to find for this board: www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-part-parts-MKS-Base-V1-4-V1-5-Control-Board-materinskaya-plata-Mega-2560/32838903903.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.7e9015d00tMrLU&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10068_319_317_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_431_10304_10307_10820_10821_10301_537_536_10843_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_53,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=98982d27-f71f-4eff-8b2e-15b79735e0cd-0&algo_pvid=98982d27-f71f-4eff-8b2e-15b79735e0cd&transAbTest=ae803_5) can you assist?
Here is a screen shot of the MKS 1.4. I use pin 6, this is pin 6 on the MKS. photos.app.goo.gl/wiDKQbBUTtX6Vi8CA Is this what you mean?
@@ChrisRiley thanks for your reply,but That's not it realy, the image you provide is another board than the I showed you in the url. And That's just the problem, I Can't find pin 6 on that specific board. The documentation for that board is hard to find if any. The reason why I bought this board was because the ramps 1.4 board did strange things with the 3dtouch. The pin just flips up and down during movement of the x and y axis. Otherwise I would be using that board. Perhaps you got an idea how to solve that "jitter" problem?
@@drebodok2556 Well that's to bad, I hate when they don't give all the info. They have a servo pin on there listed as 6, I guess this isn't correct either? Do you have Marlin setup to use MKS or RAMPS? The jitter problem, not sure there, sounds like something is crossed on the shield for sure.
@@ChrisRiley Yes, I agree and find it very akward that such simple information isn't given by the factory of reseller as if that's a pirate chest with goodies they don't want to share, afraid someone might steal it :).
I've ben using the MKS 1.3 in the setup which uses that same pin file and that includes the pins_ramps file, so it's likely to very compatible (as also stated by the reseller). So selecting the pins is not a problem, just to identify the pins on the board is.
As for the jitter, just connected the 3 wired connector on servo0 and the 2wired one to the z-min endstop, so there's not much to cross I would say unless you mean that a used pin for the probe system has double functionality configurated by mistake?
I've build me a UM2 Exteded Plus system with ramps electronics and just used twisted-pair wires (from UTP cables) to create the connection between the electronics and the printhead stuff and also the probe. Perhaps such long wires should be shielded for the probe? Previously I also tried it with a servo as a probe system which was also connected on the board like the touch probe (Servo0 and X-min) and the servo did also jitter,. So it feels like it's the wiring is picking up interference from somewhere. any ideas on that?
@@drebodok2556 Agree, it sounds like some sort of interference, but it's probably a crossed trace of something like that on the ramps board. You might try cleaning up some of the solder joints with a brush. Maybe there is some slight over solder or something. I wish I could tell you how to locate the pins on your other board. Other than searching around with a multi meter.