Thank you SO MUCH for watching! 💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/ Check out the episode I mention here🔥 ruclips.net/video/h9_G4fMamH8/видео.html
I have been welding a bit more stainless lately and definitely was dragging my filler out causing it to stick sometimes. I never even thought of it until watching this video, so thanks for the tips as always
This was a really good explanation! Best I've seen on this topic, by far. Great video and helpful graphics, and the content dealt with multiple reasons why welding stainless can be tricky. I've done a fair amount of stainless and encountered all these problems, and only partly understood the causes. Great work on a challenging set of explanations, Dusty!
I'm 2 weeks into my new job. Pretty much all Tig on stainless pipe. This helps a lot. Even though Tig was my least favorite during school I will say it's growing on me. But man it can be frustrating sometimes
On thin stainless I use the drip technique. You actually place the filler rod next to the tungsten to make it ball on itself then tap it toward the puddle to make the molten material "drip" into the weld pool. This technique works well because it prevents the sticking issue, It slows the welders pace down to help get better penetration from a slower movement/liquid falling into the puddle, and it allows you to fill from the side without affecting the puddle in the opposite direction. Everyone has their own techniques but this style of welding has helped my butt joints considerably.
@3:33 "If you can see clearly" - this always seems to be my problem.. I wear prescription specs for astigmatism and my eyes hate bright light (blue eyes FTL), no matter how clean the glasses are they seem like another layer to scatter light and make things harder to see. I could really do with some magnification but haven't found a set of cheaters that work yet. Getting old sucks ;)
Great video and good tips! In the camera shots you've got in this vid, it looks like you're running really slow (at least slow in my mind). From my understanding, this would increase the amount of heat input to the base metal. Could you do a video explaining how you balance amperage/foot pedal control with travel speed. How do you know if you're inputing too much heat by lowering amperage and slowing down travel speed?
@@InchFab Right definitely. It just seems like Dusty is able to work MUCH slower than expected and still not overheat. Justin over on The Fabrication Series has shown that low amps and slow travel *can* be just as bad as too high of amperage. So I’m just curious as to how Dusty manages to work at the speed he does.
@@BuildingWithSean yeah its a good question. I went to Justin's shop to learn tig, and his style is geared toward fabrication where dusty is art focused. Dusty can afford to run slower with a lower current and focus on accuracy since he's not worried about penetration on art stuff. When I asked Justin about stainless specifically and he said "get in and out fast with the lowest current possible." Fill and chill is only a thing on stainless for art. Can't have too much heat input for fabrication applications.
I almost never dab, keep that rod engaged for the smoothest weld, unless you need the heat. Work your rod and tungsten slightly back and forth for a food-grade weld. Since I've learned this technic, I no longer have to think about it, my hands do it automatically. I am relatively poor at stacking tho!
I have been watching another channel that features welding food quality stainless piping without use of a filler rod.... So my question is, what dictates the use of the filler rod vs. Not using filler material?
My understanding is that in food grade the ripples left on the weld is a trap for bacteria to accumulate in, the act of not using filler removes the ripples and most food grade has little need for structural durability so filler is not really needed anyway
Stainless seems better suited to no-filler (autogenous) welding than most metals, as long as fit-up is good. I'm wondering if it has to do with the surface tension of the molten puddle. Aluminum seems to be worse than other metals, perhaps because of (greater?) surface tension that causes the edges of the weldment to pull back from each other. The point (by Beaird) about ripples seems plausible, but welding stainless generally results in a flatter bead than aluminum anyway, even if filler is used. Other reasons for using filler have to do with weld cracking and strength, and the properties contributed by additives in the filler.
@@benz-share9058 It has to do with the metallurgy, certain grades of aluminum will have extreme contractional forces if you don't dilute it with enough filler.
I have done many food-grade and have always used filler. A fusion weld (no filler) is a very weak weld. For a food-grade weld, use only the min. heat, keep rod engaged, and slightly rock both rod and tungsten back and forth. Once I learned this technic, it's the only weld I use, looks very professional.
Why is the filler rod sticking elsewhere (other parts of the rod) that might be in contact with the work piece ? I'm talking about real life welding in positions, not small plates on a table. Happens to me every time I weld in position where I'm squeezed between a frame or a jig trying to get my hands to weld and the filler rod is in contact with the part. Mostly happens on aluminium to me.
Hey Dusty. I just trying to start Tig welding. I’m having issues with gas. I don’t know if it’s the gas, th everlast welder, torch or tungsten/collet issue. How would you trouble shoot this?
@@marksimpson4215 I used a strip and clean disk to remove mill scale, 3M scotch brite, acetone the two pieces. I’m just trying a fusion to start with. Without filler and the tungsten just disappears in the cup. ( I need to lower my amps cause this getting expensive) I think it’s a shielding gas issue. Not purging my 12 foot line long enough before starting? I set it to 15 CFH. Maybe I’ll try setting it to 25 and just purge it for 30 seconds before trying again. Thanks Mark for the reply.
What welder would you suggest for me? Im looking to get into tig welding and i want to be able to do aluminum as well so ac/dc for sure. And i cant see myself ever going past 3/8 aluminum with 99% of everyrhing i weld being 1/4 inch and thinner.
I bought a Prineweld brand, It has ALL the bells and whistles, $800 a very good starter welder. 110/220 ac/dc, I love it, Need a better foot petal tho.
Thank you SO MUCH for watching!
💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/
Check out the episode I mention here🔥 ruclips.net/video/h9_G4fMamH8/видео.html
I have been welding a bit more stainless lately and definitely was dragging my filler out causing it to stick sometimes. I never even thought of it until watching this video, so thanks for the tips as always
This was a really good explanation! Best I've seen on this topic, by far. Great video and helpful graphics, and the content dealt with multiple reasons why welding stainless can be tricky. I've done a fair amount of stainless and encountered all these problems, and only partly understood the causes. Great work on a challenging set of explanations, Dusty!
Love the quality of your
close-ups of the actual welding.
Fabulous, educational content!!! Your delivery is clear both your sound and image's! Well done!
Nice vid dusty! Hate it when that happens; Ti is really bad for this too.
Very informative video, as usual!! Thank you Dusty
Quality arc shots. That helps so much! Thank you
Thank you for sharing your knowledge !! 🙏
I'm 2 weeks into my new job. Pretty much all Tig on stainless pipe. This helps a lot.
Even though Tig was my least favorite during school I will say it's growing on me. But man it can be frustrating sometimes
What’s your job?
@@Jacobaugust022 a fab shop that builds industrial sized RO filtering systems. All stainless pipe 2"-12" diameter
@@sandman1058 sounds like fun!
On thin stainless I use the drip technique. You actually place the filler rod next to the tungsten to make it ball on itself then tap it toward the puddle to make the molten material "drip" into the weld pool. This technique works well because it prevents the sticking issue, It slows the welders pace down to help get better penetration from a slower movement/liquid falling into the puddle, and it allows you to fill from the side without affecting the puddle in the opposite direction. Everyone has their own techniques but this style of welding has helped my butt joints considerably.
Great video, you do great at explaining fine details,
Do videos like this on tig pipe aswell!
@3:33 "If you can see clearly" - this always seems to be my problem.. I wear prescription specs for astigmatism and my eyes hate bright light (blue eyes FTL), no matter how clean the glasses are they seem like another layer to scatter light and make things harder to see. I could really do with some magnification but haven't found a set of cheaters that work yet. Getting old sucks ;)
Me too but I already established my experience back when I could see.
Talk to the optometrist about some that mount in the welding hood. That has been a life saver for me the last few years.
Great video and good tips! In the camera shots you've got in this vid, it looks like you're running really slow (at least slow in my mind). From my understanding, this would increase the amount of heat input to the base metal. Could you do a video explaining how you balance amperage/foot pedal control with travel speed. How do you know if you're inputing too much heat by lowering amperage and slowing down travel speed?
On stainless, the oxidation level and heat affected zone will tell you everything. It's either just right or way off.
@@InchFab Right definitely. It just seems like Dusty is able to work MUCH slower than expected and still not overheat. Justin over on The Fabrication Series has shown that low amps and slow travel *can* be just as bad as too high of amperage. So I’m just curious as to how Dusty manages to work at the speed he does.
@@BuildingWithSean yeah its a good question. I went to Justin's shop to learn tig, and his style is geared toward fabrication where dusty is art focused. Dusty can afford to run slower with a lower current and focus on accuracy since he's not worried about penetration on art stuff. When I asked Justin about stainless specifically and he said "get in and out fast with the lowest current possible." Fill and chill is only a thing on stainless for art. Can't have too much heat input for fabrication applications.
@@InchFab Thanks man! I appreciate your insight.
@@BuildingWithSean no problem. I'd still like to see dusty answer it, because I could be wrong.
Thanks
I was shadowbanned at my job called cde snowhill , but I won't give up, I love welding .
Thanks Dusty LARRYMOORE
I almost never dab, keep that rod engaged for the smoothest weld, unless you need the heat. Work your rod and tungsten slightly back and forth for a food-grade weld. Since I've learned this technic, I no longer have to think about it, my hands do it automatically. I am relatively poor at stacking tho!
Top tip, thank you 😁👊
Génial ce tuto et très instructif
I have been watching another channel that features welding food quality stainless piping without use of a filler rod.... So my question is, what dictates the use of the filler rod vs. Not using filler material?
My understanding is that in food grade the ripples left on the weld is a trap for bacteria to accumulate in, the act of not using filler removes the ripples and most food grade has little need for structural durability so filler is not really needed anyway
Stainless seems better suited to no-filler (autogenous) welding than most metals, as long as fit-up is good. I'm wondering if it has to do with the surface tension of the molten puddle. Aluminum seems to be worse than other metals, perhaps because of (greater?) surface tension that causes the edges of the weldment to pull back from each other. The point (by Beaird) about ripples seems plausible, but welding stainless generally results in a flatter bead than aluminum anyway, even if filler is used. Other reasons for using filler have to do with weld cracking and strength, and the properties contributed by additives in the filler.
@@benz-share9058
It has to do with the metallurgy, certain grades of aluminum will have extreme contractional forces if you don't dilute it with enough filler.
I have done many food-grade and have always used filler. A fusion weld (no filler) is a very weak weld. For a food-grade weld, use only the min. heat, keep rod engaged, and slightly rock both rod and tungsten back and forth. Once I learned this technic, it's the only weld I use, looks very professional.
@@marksimpson4215 Thanks for the insight....very interesting.
Awesome video Dusty. I'm pretty sure this video addressed one of the main problems I've been having with the end of the filler rod balling up. 🪙🪙
Why is the filler rod sticking elsewhere (other parts of the rod) that might be in contact with the work piece ?
I'm talking about real life welding in positions, not small plates on a table. Happens to me every time I weld in position where I'm squeezed between a frame or a jig trying to get my hands to weld and the filler rod is in contact with the part. Mostly happens on aluminium to me.
Have you done purge tig?
I feel like this happens more often when my filler rod is too big or the current is too low for the thickness of the base metal.
The stainless steel is magnetic at approximately 800 degrees Celsius, you can feel it when it happens
Hey Dusty.
I just trying to start Tig welding.
I’m having issues with gas. I don’t know if it’s the gas, th everlast welder, torch or tungsten/collet issue. How would you trouble shoot this?
Straight argon, get as close as you can get, practice, practice, practice. Oh, and clean your material first, weather grind or other cleanings.
@@marksimpson4215 I used a strip and clean disk to remove mill scale, 3M scotch brite, acetone the two pieces. I’m just trying a fusion to start with. Without filler and the tungsten just disappears in the cup. ( I need to lower my amps cause this getting expensive)
I think it’s a shielding gas issue.
Not purging my 12 foot line long enough before starting? I set it to 15 CFH. Maybe I’ll try setting it to 25 and just purge it for 30 seconds before trying again.
Thanks Mark for the reply.
On my Job i see tig welds on stainles that are like hollow and not a Nice bead on it
What welder would you suggest for me? Im looking to get into tig welding and i want to be able to do aluminum as well so ac/dc for sure. And i cant see myself ever going past 3/8 aluminum with 99% of everyrhing i weld being 1/4 inch and thinner.
I bought a Prineweld brand, It has ALL the bells and whistles, $800 a very good starter welder. 110/220 ac/dc, I love it, Need a better foot petal tho.
Köszönöm. ✔✔
never welded anything.. dont know why im watching.. but... TLDR ... i guess he just says to melt the thing... get it closer to the hot thing
👍🏼