Great video. Especially on how the Brake Pressure Balance Switch works. To others viewing: At 5:20, you should never just crack open a bleeder nipple and apply/release the brakes, you will draw air into the system as you release the brakes. Always fill a tube that fits over the nipple with fresh brake fluid and with the other end of the tube sticking into fresh fluid in a small jar. This way, when you release the brake, it draws in fresh brake fluid and not air - which causes squishy/in-operable braking. The two person method to bleed brakes is different: You put a wrench on the nipple and have an assistant sit at the steering wheel. Tell your assistant to apply moderate pressure to the brake pedal but DONT release it. While doing that, open the nipple for a second to let the old fluid/air push out but close it before the brake pedal reaches the floor. Then tell your assistant to release the brake. Repeat several times for each wheel until the system is completely bled. You have to keep filling the Brake Fluid Reservoir after a couple of pumps because you don't want to draw air into the system that way either. ALWAYS use the proper brake fluid formula for your car. Most DOT 3 brake fluid is Clear when new and turns Pink to Red as it absorbs moisture over time. So. If your fluid is getting pink, it is time to change the brake fluid. If it is Red, it is no longer absorbing moisture and you are damaging your brake system.
Thanks man! You just solved the problem I have with my 85. I did have a brake line failure recently. I thought I had the brakes bled properly, but it looks like I'll have to do it again.
This is really great info! I had the same thing happen on mine. Luckily, bleeding seems to have taken care of that issue. I did want to bring up your pulling to one side. Check all four calipers. Re-lube the sliders if it's been a while. What I'm seeing there seems to be a sticky caliper.
Man This is so helpful, I haven’t try it yet but I will, my breaks work I have a problem with the light, when I break the light don’t turn on, so I’m not sure if this would help but I will definitely got it a try, I have nothing to lose anyway, but thanks a lot man much appreciate it.
To viewers: At 1:42 NEVER remove your Parking Brake System and always make sure the Parking Brake cables are properly lubricated and the entire system is in perfect working order. Many cars today have electrically actuated parking brakes. These systems are either fully engaged or fully disengaged so they are only 'Parking Brakes' and can only jamb on the brakes if actuated (if they can be activated at all if in motion). Fieros have the 'old school' mechanical parking brake and this can also be used as an "Emergency Brake" as well. If both the front and rear brake systems fail, you can still use the Fiero Parking Brake to help stop the car in such an emergency. You simply hold the release button in as you work the lever up and down to apply rear brake force as needed. Having only rear brakes takes longer to stop but they are better than nothing. I had to do this once and since Fieros are now over 35 years old, brake lines are starting to corrode and fail. All it takes is one hard stop to blow out a brake line. Also, in New Hampshire, your car should fail yearly inspection if your parking brake system is absent or not functional. Also, if you have an automatic transmission, that is even more the reason you must have a parking/emergency brake. You can't down shift an automatic transmission like you can do in a manual transmission. Manual transmissions can use low gears to put more load on the engine from the wheels and if the clutch is not pressed this can slow down the car (but not stop it). This is called "Engine Braking" and it is not to be confused with "Jake Brakes" on large trucks that use the engine in a different way to brake.
These cars are damn near 40 years old. Do you have any idea what percentage of the emergency brakes actually work. Anywhere in the rust belt, those cables are seized up long time ago and the vast majority of folks never replace them. Then there's the crappy screw mechanisms in the rear calipers, they get so gummed up, they barely worked great when they were new. Not saying it's good, not saying it's right, but it's reality. By the way back in the '50s thereabouts all four hydraulic brakes were on one circuit, it was absolutely a smart thing to change them to two circuits!
@@Toys4Life I hear you on the Fiero Parking Brakes not working. I assume they don't work on many anymore... and that is dangerous. My mechanic won't pass my yearly inspection unless the parking brake is in perfect operation - as a minimum, he lubricates the cable. He has a special adapter that pumps the lube through the cables. He uses graphite suspended in alcohol. The alcohol evaporates and the graphite seems to work well. Fiero specs seem to indicate to use 30 weight oil. Anyway... drive safe.
@@Toys4Life Yes, my dad had a (Ford , I think) 1948 pick-em-up truck in the mid 1970s. It had wipers that worked off of manifold vacuum - when you stepped on the gas, the wipers would stop momentarily until the vaccum builded up again. It had all 4 brakes on one circuit like you said - no warning light. There was only one rear tail/stop light. I dont think it had turn signals either, he had to use hand signals - yeah, like that was happening [laugh]. One tail/stop light was common on some vehicles back then before 2 lights were standardized by law. Back then in the 70's, he didn't have to add a 2nd tail light because 1 was original equipment and was "grandfatherd" in to be allowed to be registered that way. Twice a "boy scout" cop pulled him over for having one tail light. My dad kept a copy in the truck of the paragraph of the law that allowed one brake light. He had to convince the cops he was legal and dodge (no pun intended) a ticket.
At 6:52 the pull to the right in heavy breaking may be due to crown sensitivity, but it could be uneven tire wear or the passenger front caliper/disk is grabbing more. On a road that is desolate (like a dead end with no houses/business near the dead end), drive to the end and make sure no cars are down there, then drive back making sure no other cars pass you going toward the end from which you just came, then turn around again. Now you know there are no cars down the road. Now you can drive and apply the brakes on the OPPOSITE side of the road and see if the braking is crown sensitive or not. If it now pulls to the left, then that is due to crown sensitivity and there is not much you can do about it unless it is severe. Don't do this trick unless you can be certain that no cars will be oncomming or passing you as you drive.
Grab the anti-lock e-module & valve (All located by the master cylinder) from under the hood of an 1st-gen S-10 in a boneyard, then study the wiring diagram for one. You'll see it's easy to add RWAB (Rear-Wheel Anti-lock Brakes) to any car with a Vehicle-Speed Sensor, even if it's the type located behind the speedometer, on the back of the gauge cluster... and gain much better vehicle control in a panic stop. (No fish-tailing!) ;)
I truly miss my 84, 85, and 86 GT. Great to see you guys keeping them going!
More to come!
Great video. Especially on how the Brake Pressure Balance Switch works. To others viewing: At 5:20, you should never just crack open a bleeder nipple and apply/release the brakes, you will draw air into the system as you release the brakes. Always fill a tube that fits over the nipple with fresh brake fluid and with the other end of the tube sticking into fresh fluid in a small jar. This way, when you release the brake, it draws in fresh brake fluid and not air - which causes squishy/in-operable braking. The two person method to bleed brakes is different: You put a wrench on the nipple and have an assistant sit at the steering wheel. Tell your assistant to apply moderate pressure to the brake pedal but DONT release it. While doing that, open the nipple for a second to let the old fluid/air push out but close it before the brake pedal reaches the floor. Then tell your assistant to release the brake. Repeat several times for each wheel until the system is completely bled. You have to keep filling the Brake Fluid Reservoir after a couple of pumps because you don't want to draw air into the system that way either.
ALWAYS use the proper brake fluid formula for your car. Most DOT 3 brake fluid is Clear when new and turns Pink to Red as it absorbs moisture over time. So. If your fluid is getting pink, it is time to change the brake fluid. If it is Red, it is no longer absorbing moisture and you are damaging your brake system.
Thanks man! You just solved the problem I have with my 85. I did have a brake line failure recently. I thought I had the brakes bled properly, but it looks like I'll have to do it again.
This is really great info! I had the same thing happen on mine. Luckily, bleeding seems to have taken care of that issue.
I did want to bring up your pulling to one side. Check all four calipers. Re-lube the sliders if it's been a while. What I'm seeing there seems to be a sticky caliper.
Good advice! And thanks for the comment!!
Man This is so helpful, I haven’t try it yet but I will, my breaks work I have a problem with the light, when I break the light don’t turn on, so I’m not sure if this would help but I will definitely got it a try, I have nothing to lose anyway, but thanks a lot man much appreciate it.
Thank you! Yep, if the brake light is on it had to be one of the two causes - good luck!!
To viewers: At 1:42 NEVER remove your Parking Brake System and always make sure the Parking Brake cables are properly lubricated and the entire system is in perfect working order. Many cars today have electrically actuated parking brakes. These systems are either fully engaged or fully disengaged so they are only 'Parking Brakes' and can only jamb on the brakes if actuated (if they can be activated at all if in motion). Fieros have the 'old school' mechanical parking brake and this can also be used as an "Emergency Brake" as well. If both the front and rear brake systems fail, you can still use the Fiero Parking Brake to help stop the car in such an emergency. You simply hold the release button in as you work the lever up and down to apply rear brake force as needed. Having only rear brakes takes longer to stop but they are better than nothing. I had to do this once and since Fieros are now over 35 years old, brake lines are starting to corrode and fail. All it takes is one hard stop to blow out a brake line. Also, in New Hampshire, your car should fail yearly inspection if your parking brake system is absent or not functional.
Also, if you have an automatic transmission, that is even more the reason you must have a parking/emergency brake. You can't down shift an automatic transmission like you can do in a manual transmission. Manual transmissions can use low gears to put more load on the engine from the wheels and if the clutch is not pressed this can slow down the car (but not stop it). This is called "Engine Braking" and it is not to be confused with "Jake Brakes" on large trucks that use the engine in a different way to brake.
These cars are damn near 40 years old. Do you have any idea what percentage of the emergency brakes actually work. Anywhere in the rust belt, those cables are seized up long time ago and the vast majority of folks never replace them. Then there's the crappy screw mechanisms in the rear calipers, they get so gummed up, they barely worked great when they were new. Not saying it's good, not saying it's right, but it's reality. By the way back in the '50s thereabouts all four hydraulic brakes were on one circuit, it was absolutely a smart thing to change them to two circuits!
@@Toys4Life I hear you on the Fiero Parking Brakes not working. I assume they don't work on many anymore... and that is dangerous. My mechanic won't pass my yearly inspection unless the parking brake is in perfect operation - as a minimum, he lubricates the cable. He has a special adapter that pumps the lube through the cables. He uses graphite suspended in alcohol. The alcohol evaporates and the graphite seems to work well. Fiero specs seem to indicate to use 30 weight oil.
Anyway... drive safe.
@@Toys4Life Yes, my dad had a (Ford , I think) 1948 pick-em-up truck in the mid 1970s. It had wipers that worked off of manifold vacuum - when you stepped on the gas, the wipers would stop momentarily until the vaccum builded up again. It had all 4 brakes on one circuit like you said - no warning light. There was only one rear tail/stop light. I dont think it had turn signals either, he had to use hand signals - yeah, like that was happening [laugh]. One tail/stop light was common on some vehicles back then before 2 lights were standardized by law. Back then in the 70's, he didn't have to add a 2nd tail light because 1 was original equipment and was "grandfatherd" in to be allowed to be registered that way. Twice a "boy scout" cop pulled him over for having one tail light. My dad kept a copy in the truck of the paragraph of the law that allowed one brake light. He had to convince the cops he was legal and dodge (no pun intended) a ticket.
At 6:52 the pull to the right in heavy breaking may be due to crown sensitivity, but it could be uneven tire wear or the passenger front caliper/disk is grabbing more. On a road that is desolate (like a dead end with no houses/business near the dead end), drive to the end and make sure no cars are down there, then drive back making sure no other cars pass you going toward the end from which you just came, then turn around again. Now you know there are no cars down the road. Now you can drive and apply the brakes on the OPPOSITE side of the road and see if the braking is crown sensitive or not. If it now pulls to the left, then that is due to crown sensitivity and there is not much you can do about it unless it is severe. Don't do this trick unless you can be certain that no cars will be oncomming or passing you as you drive.
Solid technique, thanks for articulating.
Excellent info and presentation. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the comment - I appreciate it!
I really enjoyed this video and it’s wisdom
Grab the anti-lock e-module & valve (All located by the master cylinder) from under the hood of an 1st-gen S-10 in a boneyard, then study the wiring diagram for one. You'll see it's easy to add RWAB (Rear-Wheel Anti-lock Brakes) to any car with a Vehicle-Speed Sensor, even if it's the type located behind the speedometer, on the back of the gauge cluster... and gain much better vehicle control in a panic stop. (No fish-tailing!) ;)
How does that adapt to a Fiero to sense the rear wheel speed?
Thanks for this. I DID learn something.
Glad it was helpful!
This is an awesome video
Good video!
Great vid!
Thank you !!
I would love a Fiero GT again with a swap. But it would have to be a manual.
It can be done!