I recommend using a slightly heavier flywheel as it seems that there isn't enough inertia to send the engine back around onto the next stroke. Also perhaps use an electric drill or motor to try spin the parts at a low of 50 rpm
I realize this vid is 2 months old and you may already have a solution for your leaking, buuuut if you haven't tried it yet, I would suggest salt bath annealing with some High Temp (HT) PLA! Basically any PLA "Pro" you see on the market is a PLA mixed with other chemicals to reduce warping. If you take salt, grind it down to a fine powder, and then submerge your print in that salt with a weight to hold the salt in place you can use that in an oven for a few hours at 170C to remelt the PLA closing any gaps from the printing process. Also if you anneal it at 60-70C during the cool down for a few more hours the semi-crystalline nature of PLA allows it to get stronger (less flexible, but higher force tolerance) and have a higher temp resistance. Just a thought to maybe help your sealing woes!
Hey Camden, I'm interested in your Piston Engine concept and I'm planning on making one with an SLA 3D printer. SLA 3D printers have higher tolerances (Although with more tuning you can get the same print quality with an FDM) so I think I can make a Gas Engine in less time than it took for you to make yours. Because of tolerances.
Wow great job! Many people have tried to do the same but you might have come the furthest to a functioning engine! Subscribed to see the progress and I hope you get it self-sustaining! :)
Very interesting video! There have been model engines built with plastic crank cases, and plastic carburetors, also glass cylinders. It will probably run but the cylinder head will get very hot very quickly. The hottest area is the exhaust valve port area. Are you using an O ring piston ring?
@@CamdenBowen what you need is a way to put a valve on the butane can itself. You might be able to canablize one of those bigger touches that have the knob, it's like the orange and black one you have but you just screw in a larger butane can. They use them for cooking. Or you might just use that orange touch with the tube on the nozzle, just gotta deactivate the sparker. That might work
@@johnnyhellfire6 I have 2 of those torches and one of them is broken so I have been arsing around with it to make a fuel system by taking the regulator out of it... and also starting a large fire by accident too lol
@@CamdenBowen yea, that's the tricky part lol. Too bad you can find one of those older pocket touches that used c02 looking carts for the butane, they had a small knob to adjust it and no sparker. Super bare bones too
Could air be a problem here, maybe the mixture is just too rich in butane and there isn’t enough air for combustion. A stoichiometric mixture usually has considerably more air than fuel
very cool .. Do what you can to separate the butane fuel from the air in the plastic bottle. Even if it's letting the fuel vaporize enough to displace all the air. I'd hate to see that bottle contain an air/fuel mix that could ignite inside the bottle. - keep up the good work!
I’ve thought about building something similar but with a few metal components. The two stroke approach is much better due to the simplicity. The head, piston, piston rings and cylinder sleeve would have to be metal with all other parts being 3D printed. You might be able to get away with casting the piston out of resin and using an o ring. I’ve seen people transform refrigerator and car a/c compressors into two strokes.
i think if u tried making it 2 stroke it would have a higher chance of running since it has less things to seal and less moving parts and you could make theoretical compresion ratio higher but also i think you should increase the crankshaft rods thicker and heavier flywheel
I love your engine so far... one thing I think that may help you though is that... honestly... I don't think your flywheel is heavy enough. You made your flywheel in a similar manner to other 3D printed engines (and why wouldn't you... if it works it works) but those engine's are usually air powered and 2 stroke meaning that they only have to have enough energy to get the piston through the exhaust stroke which... really isn't that much. Your engine however is on a completely different level compared to those engines. You clearly have good compression and you are now running 4 strokes rather than just 2 meaning that you will need a LOT more rotational energy to be able to get it to cycle through all three of those and get back around to the power stroke again. A good rule of thumb is at idle, your going to want enough rotational energy to be able to make it through at least 2 full 4 stroke cycles without the piston firing. Missing can happen at idle even with a fully functioning engine, so you will need to make it through 8 full strokes without a power cycle till it hopefully fires again. Seeing as your engine is 3D printed and this is all a guessing game (although your prints look to be some seriously high quality) you may even want more than that. If you have that much weight on your flywheel (well... rotational inertia really), you should be able to get it to run and run pretty smoothly I would bet.
Good comment! I agree, the flywheel doesn't seem to carry enough momentum to overcome the compression stroke after firing at a low RPM, that is something I will have to work on!
Thanks! Something you could do if you find you will need way more mass than a 3D printed flywheel could be made to (or the crankshaft to even hold) could be you could gear up the flywheel till you get enough rotational energy to get the desired effect. The only downside is that you could then be approaching the limit for what 3D printed things can handle RPM wise without blowing apart. I do believe using this method you should get more than enough energy to sustain an idle, but if you go to rev it up you might want to step back XD
@@rosswingard8949 maybe I could just increase the radius and weight slightly, that way the crank won't snap due to the rest mass however will carry more centrifugal force
Hey what's your ignition circuit? I've been looking around and everybody doing small engines is using high voltage spark drivers or glow plugs. I'd like to avoid that if possible!
I wouldn't mid trying an RC carb however I am ambivalent due to having to actually purchase one and likely Nitro fuel to use it, so am avoiding it for as long as I can. It would be a little untruthful to say it is entirely 3d printed since it does rely on a Copper cylinder sleeve and metal hardware such as bearings and screws, but the latter is all 3d printed
I really want to see this engine run even just for a bit. Make sure the timing of the valves are perfect or else it will never run, try to make it work with the carburettor form the beginning so you get good air fuel ratio and try other types of fuel like petrol. Good luck, i wish you try these .
@@CamdenBowen You can just leave the spark plug spark all the time and when it is time for the power stroke there will always be a spark so you don't have to time the spark, or else you can do this till you get the engine running. Good luck.
Consider switching to a liquid fuel again. This would make it easier to ensure constant fuel delivery. I would try a simple carburetor like you had before, and use a proper pump to ensure the fuel is being given constant, steady pressure. A basic gear pump would probably suffice. It would be more reliable than trying to scale down a diaphragm pump, after all. Or don't do any of that. I'm not here to hijack your project. Either way, I like what you've got going here.
@@CamdenBowen Alcohol would be good, but make sure you use alcohol-safe seals and hoses or they'll melt. Also, I'd try to use a carb that you can tune to some extent so you don't have to build a new one every time you want to adjust the air/fuel ratio.
@Camden Bowen just for giggles try a much heavier flywheel and/or changing the cam to a 2 stroke configuration. It kinda looks like the engine just doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the compression. I also think you should give a go with the lighter fluid again. The aresol is going to be a royal pain in the ass to get dialed in properly.
I agree lol, the heavier flywheel could work better as well as a new fuel source. I don't think a two stroke cam could work only because it isn't really designed to work like that unfortunately
@@CamdenBowen that would be correct... Forgot how 2 strokes operated for a moment.. but by doubling the cam profile you can try running it on compressed air. Might give you a better idea of whether or not something is binding up and a clue to how much weight you'll need to add
Hey Camden do you plan on releasing the files for this. If not no biggie but I was just wondering because I'm getting my hands on a resin printer and think this would be pretty sweet clear.
The thing is the crank will probably break with a heavier one lol, I could probably just make a very large diameter one instead however so the net weight is low but the inertia will be greater
Wow.... I'm glad that you made this update. We are inching forward toward the end, slowly but surely. Pretty sure you can make it run soon. Good luck!
Thanks man! I'm feeling it could soon work
The algorithm got something right, I saw this and subscribed!
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Thanks bro! I plan on making more stuff like this!
I recommend using a slightly heavier flywheel as it seems that there isn't enough inertia to send the engine back around onto the next stroke. Also perhaps use an electric drill or motor to try spin the parts at a low of 50 rpm
Oh bro ive been waiting to see this! Good work!
Thanks bro!
You are gonna be a great youtuber, glad I can be here for the beginning
Thank you!
I realize this vid is 2 months old and you may already have a solution for your leaking, buuuut if you haven't tried it yet, I would suggest salt bath annealing with some High Temp (HT) PLA! Basically any PLA "Pro" you see on the market is a PLA mixed with other chemicals to reduce warping.
If you take salt, grind it down to a fine powder, and then submerge your print in that salt with a weight to hold the salt in place you can use that in an oven for a few hours at 170C to remelt the PLA closing any gaps from the printing process. Also if you anneal it at 60-70C during the cool down for a few more hours the semi-crystalline nature of PLA allows it to get stronger (less flexible, but higher force tolerance) and have a higher temp resistance.
Just a thought to maybe help your sealing woes!
Woah, I have never heard of this before! Thank you for bringing this to my attention I'll definitely have to try this!
This is sick. Your way too underrated bro. Your editing style and all... Amazing! Keep up the good work my guy!
Thank you!
Hey Camden, I'm interested in your Piston Engine concept and I'm planning on making one with an SLA 3D printer.
SLA 3D printers have higher tolerances (Although with more tuning you can get the same print quality with an FDM) so I think I can make a Gas Engine in less time than it took for you to make yours. Because of tolerances.
Love your vid man, have bin checking every week for an update… how is it going? Have you had any succes lately? Would love a small update.👍😊
Wow great job! Many people have tried to do the same but you might have come the furthest to a functioning engine! Subscribed to see the progress and I hope you get it self-sustaining! :)
Thanks! A lot of work has gone into it to just get it that far lol
@@CamdenBowen I can really get that haha
Very interesting video! There have been model engines built with plastic crank cases, and plastic carburetors, also glass cylinders. It will probably run but the cylinder head will get very hot very quickly. The hottest area is the exhaust valve port area. Are you using an O ring piston ring?
you need to put bearings on the crank
There are bearings between the engine case and the crankshaft, but not between the connecting rod and crank shaft if that's what you mean
So glad this was on my recommended. I subscribed! Can't wait to see you succeed
Thank you bro! The support means alot!
Incredible, keep going!!
Thank you!
Nicely done, you think a smaller chamber might work? I wonder how practical it would be to pull the tank out of one of those touches would be.
I think the problem is the torch has too little fuel, maybe a manifold with 2 of them combined will give enough
@@CamdenBowen what you need is a way to put a valve on the butane can itself. You might be able to canablize one of those bigger touches that have the knob, it's like the orange and black one you have but you just screw in a larger butane can. They use them for cooking. Or you might just use that orange touch with the tube on the nozzle, just gotta deactivate the sparker. That might work
@@johnnyhellfire6 I have 2 of those torches and one of them is broken so I have been arsing around with it to make a fuel system by taking the regulator out of it... and also starting a large fire by accident too lol
@@CamdenBowen yea, that's the tricky part lol. Too bad you can find one of those older pocket touches that used c02 looking carts for the butane, they had a small knob to adjust it and no sparker. Super bare bones too
LETS GO! You did it! I was wondering if you were down for a collab by any chance with Axel Dayton as well, if he likes.
That could be a cool thing!
@@CamdenBowen Yeah! I am currently working on designing and building a ramjet.
Could air be a problem here, maybe the mixture is just too rich in butane and there isn’t enough air for combustion. A stoichiometric mixture usually has considerably more air than fuel
very cool .. Do what you can to separate the butane fuel from the air in the plastic bottle. Even if it's letting the fuel vaporize enough to displace all the air. I'd hate to see that bottle contain an air/fuel mix that could ignite inside the bottle. - keep up the good work!
Thank you! After filming I realized "wow maybe this isn't very smart" lol, I'm going to try another design
I’ve thought about building something similar but with a few metal components. The two stroke approach is much better due to the simplicity. The head, piston, piston rings and cylinder sleeve would have to be metal with all other parts being 3D printed. You might be able to get away with casting the piston out of resin and using an o ring. I’ve seen people transform refrigerator and car a/c compressors into two strokes.
Heavier flywheel to help it rotate through the strokes 👍
U should try a heavier flywheel, when making air powered engines for me a heavier flywheel works wonders
i think if u tried making it 2 stroke it would have a higher chance of running since it has less things to seal and less moving parts and you could make theoretical compresion ratio higher but also i think you should increase the crankshaft rods thicker and heavier flywheel
have you considered coating plastic parts in epoxy, that might make them last longer
Well.. this is interesting.. I myself am trying to design and print one..
I love your engine so far... one thing I think that may help you though is that... honestly... I don't think your flywheel is heavy enough. You made your flywheel in a similar manner to other 3D printed engines (and why wouldn't you... if it works it works) but those engine's are usually air powered and 2 stroke meaning that they only have to have enough energy to get the piston through the exhaust stroke which... really isn't that much.
Your engine however is on a completely different level compared to those engines. You clearly have good compression and you are now running 4 strokes rather than just 2 meaning that you will need a LOT more rotational energy to be able to get it to cycle through all three of those and get back around to the power stroke again.
A good rule of thumb is at idle, your going to want enough rotational energy to be able to make it through at least 2 full 4 stroke cycles without the piston firing. Missing can happen at idle even with a fully functioning engine, so you will need to make it through 8 full strokes without a power cycle till it hopefully fires again. Seeing as your engine is 3D printed and this is all a guessing game (although your prints look to be some seriously high quality) you may even want more than that.
If you have that much weight on your flywheel (well... rotational inertia really), you should be able to get it to run and run pretty smoothly I would bet.
Good comment! I agree, the flywheel doesn't seem to carry enough momentum to overcome the compression stroke after firing at a low RPM, that is something I will have to work on!
Thanks! Something you could do if you find you will need way more mass than a 3D printed flywheel could be made to (or the crankshaft to even hold) could be you could gear up the flywheel till you get enough rotational energy to get the desired effect. The only downside is that you could then be approaching the limit for what 3D printed things can handle RPM wise without blowing apart. I do believe using this method you should get more than enough energy to sustain an idle, but if you go to rev it up you might want to step back XD
@@rosswingard8949 maybe I could just increase the radius and weight slightly, that way the crank won't snap due to the rest mass however will carry more centrifugal force
@@CamdenBowen Also very true, basically like a flywheel from one of those old hit and miss engines!
Hey what's your ignition circuit? I've been looking around and everybody doing small engines is using high voltage spark drivers or glow plugs. I'd like to avoid that if possible!
please post more updates!
for fuel could a rc carburetor work? i think some were made for just gas.
I just now found this, is it all 3D printed? no metal sleeve or piston?
I wouldn't mid trying an RC carb however I am ambivalent due to having to actually purchase one and likely Nitro fuel to use it, so am avoiding it for as long as I can. It would be a little untruthful to say it is entirely 3d printed since it does rely on a Copper cylinder sleeve and metal hardware such as bearings and screws, but the latter is all 3d printed
I really want to see this engine run even just for a bit. Make sure the timing of the valves are perfect or else it will never run, try to make it work with the carburettor form the beginning so you get good air fuel ratio and try other types of fuel like petrol. Good luck, i wish you try these .
Thanks! The timing may need to be adjusted, the spark timing seems to be the biggest problem however instead of the valve timing
@@CamdenBowen You can just leave the spark plug spark all the time and when it is time for the power stroke there will always be a spark so you don't have to time the spark, or else you can do this till you get the engine running. Good luck.
Maybe you needing more bit heavier fly wheel so it can maintain momentum and overcome the force of compression.Also it will run slower mire bit yeah 👍
Consider switching to a liquid fuel again. This would make it easier to ensure constant fuel delivery. I would try a simple carburetor like you had before, and use a proper pump to ensure the fuel is being given constant, steady pressure. A basic gear pump would probably suffice. It would be more reliable than trying to scale down a diaphragm pump, after all.
Or don't do any of that. I'm not here to hijack your project. Either way, I like what you've got going here.
Thank you! I've tried so many things unsuccessfully so maybe I'll have to try liquid again, alcohol perhaps
@@CamdenBowen Alcohol would be good, but make sure you use alcohol-safe seals and hoses or they'll melt. Also, I'd try to use a carb that you can tune to some extent so you don't have to build a new one every time you want to adjust the air/fuel ratio.
Try a larger flywheel and put heavier weight on the outer perimeter
@Camden Bowen just for giggles try a much heavier flywheel and/or changing the cam to a 2 stroke configuration. It kinda looks like the engine just doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the compression. I also think you should give a go with the lighter fluid again. The aresol is going to be a royal pain in the ass to get dialed in properly.
I agree lol, the heavier flywheel could work better as well as a new fuel source. I don't think a two stroke cam could work only because it isn't really designed to work like that unfortunately
@@CamdenBowen that would be correct... Forgot how 2 strokes operated for a moment.. but by doubling the cam profile you can try running it on compressed air. Might give you a better idea of whether or not something is binding up and a clue to how much weight you'll need to add
@@PyroFactor101 that's not a bad idea, making a new head and camshaft to run on air as a test. I will look into that!
love to see ir
Thanks bro!
Hey Camden do you plan on releasing the files for this. If not no biggie but I was just wondering because I'm getting my hands on a resin printer and think this would be pretty sweet clear.
HEY! could i print out these files myself? id like to see if i could make a working carb!
May you please upload the files for this amazing creation? I'd love to make it!
Sure! the files are attached to the pinned comment: ruclips.net/video/uXcz63xWMGU/видео.html&ab_channel=CamdenBowen
Oh hell yea!
Let's go. This will rival Tesla
you should post more often, like you make good videos
Thanks! Actually working on a video right now!
@@CamdenBowen Can't wait!
@@CamdenBowen When will it likely be released?
You should 3d print a carburettor
Put larger/heavier flywheel on it. Btw can you give me stl files because I would also like to try and make it.
Are you still working on this project? I'd love to print a working version of this at some point
hey its been two whole months where is the new video bro ?
Yea I know it's been a long while but I've been getting around to it just recently
You should try water cooling it. It would last longer
You might also try a vapor carburetor. Or a make a little propane demand valve. There are drawings for one by Jerry howell
i think you need a heavier flywheel, like alot heavier
The thing is the crank will probably break with a heavier one lol, I could probably just make a very large diameter one instead however so the net weight is low but the inertia will be greater
@@CamdenBowen good idea, i want to make a gas engine too but i dont want to start untill i know its possible lol
@@FoxSock I have no idea if it's possible but I'll figure it out sooner or later lol
@@CamdenBowen im excited to see the results!
lmao I used the same music on my podcast
Its a good piece
Pode me mandar o arquivo por favor ? Like aqui do Brasil
quit wasting people time
Cry about it
Hi