Did You Like Me Breaking Down My Thought Process with Tips? I want to talk about what goes through my mind and why I say what I say. Let me know if you want more videos like this!
Yes. As a viewer, I look to you to demonstrate your use of your strategies so that I can take notes and use some of your moves in my future negotiations. It is quite easy for someone like me you miss crucial aspects of your negotiations because I either lack a context, or because I am unaware of what game the dealer was trying to play in the first place.
Tomi would love to know decision tree for your first dealership call vs your 2nd, 3rd etc.. as it may sound different if you don't have an OTD in your first call.
I consume alot of your content screen off with youtube premium. The constant cuts to silence make me want to skip this to come back later, but may likely forget. This may suppress your views as I see these comments alot on similar content. Consider a voiceover or something!
Love the video Tomi, one suggestion, give the title cards in between the conversation beats a bit more time to breathe, I had to keep pausing the video to read what was displayed.
That was a very real life negotiation. You got them to come down $100 bucks which seems like nothing. But Toyota doesn't negotiate much and $100 is 100 bucks. I have always walked away from every Toyota dealership when I tried to negotiate a lower price from their advertised price and they wouldn't budge on price. I only buy Toyotas from private parties to get a good to fair deal. Now with Ford, Chevy, and Dodge, there are dealerships that will negotiate. Honda as well. But not Toyota.
This was pretty cool! When you hit him up for the 2nd OTD price, he accurately quoted you 43814....so that's good on the dealer to not "mess with the number" on the phone. Some might say "well Tommy, YOU messed with the number"....no, you're the buyer, if you could get it for $1, that works. Haha. I also agree with even the $100 at the end off....every little bit is money that can cover your transpo costs or help pay sales tax, etc.
I would rather pay you that extra money than get ripped off by the dealer and I’m still watching your videos everyday learning about the car market, as an adult I don’t know why most if not all dealerships rip you off on service and buying a car it makes me frustrated sometimes but your videos help
His videos remind me why I will never walk onto a car lot ever again. You ever get the urge to go car shopping just watch a Tomi video and that feeling will pass. Oh, the last time I bought a car from a dealership was July, 15th 2003 worst day of my life and just buried my Mother. Great business model these schmucks have.
I couldn’t agree more. My wife & I recently purchased two brand new vehicles using an auto broker. This was before I discovered Tomi & his services. I respect the hell out of what these guys do for a living. The use of an auto broker was a small cost at the end of the day to save myself the headache of calling multiple dealerships, trying to negotiate with them over the phone or in person, the back & forth games with the sales manager & finance, etc. For me, my time & energy is way more valuable & even though I could do these things on my own using the knowledge that Tomi & his team give us for free, I’ll happily pay them to do it for me! Keep up the great work & videos, Tomi! You’re making a major impact on the car buying process! Oh & welcome to Charlotte as well! Hope you & your lady are enjoying it so far!
Hi Tomi, I've been watching yours n caredge's channels over the last few months, n i just purchased my car well under MSRP/sticker with combined dealer/brand incentives n negotiating using the tips I've learned here. A new car went from being out of my reach to possible thru learning what to look for n how to negotiate. Thanks for all the work u do!!!
Love your video! My mother's deaf and she is looking to trade in her car for a newer car. Someone like you is greatly appreciate helping out my mom. I will let my mom know about your service. Thank you!
Purchased a 24' RAV4 LE with quite the surprising amount of added accessories in February. I was astounded when without knowing what I was doing, I simply said I'd take it if they removed the add-ons and they agreed. $32,400 sticker price. They let it go for $27,800 out the door. It was a Wednesday at the end of the month. There was a freezing rain falling. I was the only customer in the dealership. It was my 3rd car from that dealership in 6 years. I dealt with the same sales manager on all 3 cars. And they had way too many RAV4s on the lot just sitting there in the freezing rain. Maybe that's why I got that good price but sometimes you just have to ask without really having to haggle for 6 hours at the dealership. There are so many factors when it comes to getting the right price.
I sold vehicles' years ago before I started my own business. . My manager posted a truck dirt cheap . Actually it didn't exist. We had to say it was just sold but we can take your name and info what your interested in. lol
When I bought a car in April I negotiated OTD price via email and used the following line: "Per the FTC's new CARS rule, I will not be paying for any dealer installed add-ons or junk fees." It worked. And regarding the Chicago sales tax, all of MIssouri is just as bad. There is a state sales tax of 4.225%, and each county levies its own additional tax that is typically the same or higher. In Kansas City I paid 8.975% total sales tax.
@@neilquinn Many states have property tax, what you failed to show was its significant. As an example I have a 2022 Highlander and my property tax was still $1500 this year in VA, $2,200 Last year. If you buy cars like a Toyota or hybrid they rake you over the coals every year
@@tsaultie It's brutal. I'm looking to buy a used car and trying to stay around 25k or less to avoid going much past the $20k partial subsidy. Their assessments are also absurd.
If I went to the grocery and a $5.49 gallon of milk rang up at $6.32 they would fix it or I'd go to another store. I have done that with car dealers. I have done it and ended up continuing to drive what I had for years longer. You can milk a cow many many times but do it only once if you cut the teats and let the bag drain.
Would love to see negotiation on a Sienna. I was able to get an XLE under MSRP, but only by 900 hundred. Dealers were laughing at me, but when I finally went in person they met my number.
We had a 4Runner. 1st dealership gave a great offer. 2nd dealership low balled until I told them price of competition, then countered $1k more. 3rd dealership matched 2nd and I told them unless they beat it no deal. We agreed on $300 more. I could have easily taken the first deal for 1,300 less. Not bad for 2hrs.
There is a big difference between a brand name dealerships that sell new and used vehicles vs. family / privately owned used car dealerships. The one I worked for was pretty straight forward. The auction price of the car, refurbishing cost (around $1500-2k on average), plus $2-3k profit on top on average priced cars. And there were no random dealer add ons. Just $800 dealer fee, tax, registration. Seemed straight forward enough
My Rav4 hybrid will come with several port installed options (PIO). These are items that are added to the car after it leaves the factory, but before it reaches the dealership. A few are: paint protection film, door edge guards, blackout decals, first aid kit and charging cables. Some of these I want but not all. The sales manager told me none of them can be removed because they are considered part of the factory build. I told the manager to call the port and tell them not to add the items I don't want. He said he can't do that, it doesn't work that way. So now I have to pay over $1500 for stuff I don't want.
Always negotiate total otd if you want the most savings. Sure discount from the msrp off the price of the car is great. But once u add back all the legal fees you didn't do as much of a discount as you initially wanted. But again you hire Tomi not for the biggest steal of the deal. You hire him for to save your time and anxiety.
This idea of negotiating OTD is a bit trickier than it used to because of a lot of dynamics. My method is to first make sure you don't pay for any add ons, thats what we did here. Make sure those are all removed. After that you negotiate a discount on the car, 7-10% is my general rule of thumb. After that you negotiate trade After that you negotiate financing. This method is the most foolproof way to make sure you were taken care of on every part of the deal.
Anytime a dealer says, “we paid more than that for the car/ I paid over MSRP for a used car,” I always say, well that’s not very smart. I may need to wait until you goes are having going out of business sale to buy then since you’re paying more than other lots are selling them for.
I'd like to know what the difference in price would have been if a regular person would have negotiated this deal verses the figure you got at the end.
Me being "tier 1" allowed me to get what I wanted for my purchse of a '24 WRX. For 32.8k & gave me the payment i wanted @ 513/month. I got doc fee removed & window tint removed. ~850$. No other add ons or fees. 1500$- down @ 2.9%. E z p z. Didnt get gap (they were mad about that) & insurance was a bit high @ 250. If you have tier 1 credit you can do and say WHATEVER you want to get the car you want. Excellent credit makes dealers BEND. Get your credit up & skip the 1k this guy charges. Enjoy
Decision making experts! Riddle me this: Stay at the same company doing something you like for a reasonable pay that will increase little for the next 20ys (we’re talking work stability you don’t often see nowadays) or go to a position doing something else you also like for significantly greater pay but that will very likely churn you out in 5yrs because tech companies just suck like that with mentality that if you’re not going up you’re a drag, get out? I don’t want to “move up” to management or “get more responsibilities. I have 2 little ones, in 5yrs I don’t want to me working 10pm or weekends…
Very easy to remove additional fees. You just tell them you won't pay any junk fees. It's that simple. If they demand you pay them you walk out. Dealerships make at least 6 grand when they sell at MSRP what with dealer holdbacks, dealer incentives, dealer rebates, floor pan assistance, etc. If you don't get at least 3 grand off MSRP you got A BAD DEAL.
I am sorry but this isn't true. Every brand is different but if a dealership sells a car at MSRP they are not making 6k a copy on the front end of a deal. I have been on both sides, and I will tell you that if a dealership is running 5-6k around the house per car deal, they are doing very well. This would be front and back and does take into consideration all the things you are mentioning. This is especially not true on Japanese brands or Korean brands. The general rule of "if you didn't get 3k off MSRP you got a bad deal" is also just not good or accurate advice. There are plenty of vehicles that would break this rule for you (TRD 4 Runner, TRD Sequoia, GX550, Raptor R, Grand Highlander Hybrid, Civic Type R, Civic Si, ECT) And for junk fees, or add ons. My advice is negotiate almost everything online or over the phone where the power of "walking out" is less valuable. This strategy works on certain brands but you will run into a wall when trying this at a lot of Toyota stores. You need more leverage.
Hi, I always buy used and I'm planning to buy a New Car for the first time. For the new car, the Destination Fee will be additional to the price you negotiated right?
Now that you are so well known. It would be cool to use a voice filter and not be live for a couple vids to see exactly how much of your notoriety is helping make some of these deals happen.
You are in Chicago/Chicagoland area? I'm in Wheaton/Carol Stream area. I went to Sun Rise Chevy in Glendale Heights on Sunday to look at new Equinox's. Every car had $2240 rust proofing, some kind of backup collision protection for $300 and $180 in door guards posted next to the window sticker.
CONTRACTUALLY, they probably can't ADVERTISE them for less than the invoice or some number based off the MSRP. Legally, they can SELL it for as little as $1 if they want.
Tomi do you have a video on what feeds you should pay like processing fees why is it that some dealers seem to charge a lot more for tax title and license when most of the time it costs around $200 if that I'm getting charged by Virginia dealer $900.00 processing fee the tax title and license is $745 which does not seem right
I have low credit score due to me paying off something i did not realize i owed instead of credit increasing it decrease by 37 points 😒 i would have already bought a car 4 months ago but my interest rate is going to kill me ...
I get confused with Doc fees. Thay are all over the place. What is the max you will let them charge for that and how do you work that out? Thank you for your videos! -Michael Julian
I went to buy a new car last weekend. The dealer fee was $1200.00, the doc fee was $1200, and the state fee was $600. I laughed out loud 🤣.. this was not included the bs add-ons of 3k more. So, a total of 6k over retail on a pre-owned low mileage vehicle. It was easy enough to find a dealer that had the same vehicle for way less because they had ZERO nonsense and ZERO fake bs or inflated fees. Saved myself 7k when all said and done. Doc fees should really be in the $200-$300 range.
A Doc fee is a junk fee. I wouldn't pay it. The problem with most people buying cars is that they pay all these junk fees which screw things up for the rest of us that know better.
Dealer has a great price for car but they have add ons (LoJack and perma plate) that they “do on all of their cars” Advice on how to negotiate these off?
Guy at the dealer is not trained at all. Just terrible. This is why people don’t like people in the car business. SM at a Toyota dealer in Oregon. Let me know if you need anything. Happy to make a deal and give great service.
He did not negotiate $100 off. He also got rid of all of the Addons that the dealer literally said they were going to put on the car. So that could be $1000s off dealer fees he removed
it took you less than 15 minutes to negotiate $100 off. Sure that sounds immaterial when looking at a $40k purchase, but thats the equivalent of making $400/hr. Time is money and that paid off, even if it isn't sexy.
“Well there’s a reason your calling me, I feel like if price was the only thing you were considering then you would’ve jumped on that other deal… I mean when you go out to eat to you call ahead and compare steal prices or go to reviews?”
Is this sales person nuts? He has to see the other deal you are considering? Hello, Mr Salesman, and I use that term loosely, just do the deal, catch up with your paycheck. And get on with the next deal. Just do the deal.
1) I don't advertise my service as a money saving service but a time, energy and anxiety saving service. 2) Part of the service is negotiating, part of the service is sourcing the car. This car with his color combo only have 5 in the country thats on the ground. One of these 5 reduced their price and within hours we are calling to close it up. This deal wouldn't of lasted more than a day. He priced his car to get rid of it, so us watching the market found it. Clearly he already had calls on the car, if this is in the middle of a clients work day are they actually going to call in time? Possibly? 3) I would argue the way I structured this conversation eliminated the ability for the dealership to put the adds that they were planning on adding. I made him feel like there was no chance he was adding those. There is a chance those add ons would of been added for my client.
Simple. Tell them the little strip right next to the Moroney sticker goes away. Outright. No negotiation, at all. Remove it, and THEN we start negotiating. Yes..I have walked out before. If enough people do this, then we'll stop getting nitrogen in the other times, and the other garbage.
You negotiated against yourselves towards the end. Went from 800 to 500 to 300 with out a counter from the dealer. As soon as the delaer got you to move off your price without giving a number, they have the advantage. As soon as you have a OTD #, all future conversations should be around that number. When you give a # , demand that they give you a # back. And do not move off yours until they do.
Yes and no. According to this scenario, it was already priced lower than others in that immediate area. The broker also says they're going to still try to get a lower price which there's nothing wrong with that. But I can fully see the salesman's viewpoint that they just lowered the price and want to see if they have takers and if they want any of the add-ons because they are in business to make a profit. Of course you can debate whether some of those add-on things are a scam, which mostly seem to be little or no value for the add-on, but this salesman was willing to Not do the add-ons But nobody can fault the dealership from trying to make the most they can as long as they're up front with their breakdown.
Did I catch that right? Even if you’re paying cash, tell the dealer you’re open to financing? Assume you really aren’t open to financing, it amazes me how you can lie to a dealer like that but when the dealer lies to us it’s a problem. Smh.
My general rule is to tell them you are open to financing as long as it makes sense to the deal. What "Making sense" is for you to decide. That rate might be an unattainable rate, but being open to financing will result in a better deal. And sometimes even financing to get that deal and paying it off in 30 days Being open to financing is different than saying "I am for sure financing".
I financed $10K of a deal for 2 years at something like 0.99% because the dealer gave me a lower price if I did so. I assume they were trying to feed $ to the financing arm. I didn’t care, I was going for lowest total cost of acquisition …I.e. it’s what made sense.
@@Delivrd the way it came across is that you’d tell the dealer you’re open to financing even if your client isn’t open to it and is purely a cash customer. Perhaps I misunderstood but that’s how to sounded. So if your client is paying full cash and financing isn’t a consideration, you would refrain from saying that you’d consider financing? I’m not trying to attack here, I really love what you do and would love to do it myself actually.
This was a 100% a miscommunication on me and the editor. I didn't want this video to be delayed, but I would like it to be a "thought bubble" that you can read but the conversation continues. Thoughts?
I liked it, don't know why it would annoy someone. It's a 14 minute video and happened maybe six times? It was informative. Maybe people don't like reading and prefer you just pause to pop in to speak that information? Honestly if people can't be bothered to read the occasional blip of text they don't deserve your content.
Honestly the worst negotiator I’ve ever heard. You just fumble thru words and it’s always the other person- sales man carrying the conversation. Very poor negotiating skills.
Clickbate title - you didn’t get the added fees removed, the guy just didn’t have time to add the addons yet because you called before he had a chance too
This isn't a clickbait title. He had the car for awhile, and all these things came with the car. He didn't charge us for them because of the things I did.
@ the salesmen said he was going to add them on, implying to me they hadn’t already added them on physically. I surmise this because he went on to say that he could add on different items if you wanted them. The title implies to us - the viewer - that you got the add on fees taken off even though they had been added, however this is simply not the case based off the salesmen’s comments
@@EuropeAfricaTrip You understand some "add ons" are not applied until a car is purchased. Paint protection for example is a spray on foam for any dealership that uses Ethos that is sprayed on after the car is detailed. This is something they would say it "already on" even though its not actually on.
Hey sorry im new to this so i thought id just ask... Its typical to try and get dealer addon charges removed? So the addons are added but you dont pay extra because thats part of the car package? And just to clarify, dealership addons is stuff like doorsill protectors, door side mouldings, protective films, and cargo liners right? From what I understand its also typical for people to get the Doc fee (administrative/paperwork fee) removed to?
Did You Like Me Breaking Down My Thought Process with Tips? I want to talk about what goes through my mind and why I say what I say. Let me know if you want more videos like this!
Yes. As a viewer, I look to you to demonstrate your use of your strategies so that I can take notes and use some of your moves in my future negotiations.
It is quite easy for someone like me you miss crucial aspects of your negotiations because I either lack a context, or because I am unaware of what game the dealer was trying to play in the first place.
Tomi would love to know decision tree for your first dealership call vs your 2nd, 3rd etc.. as it may sound different if you don't have an OTD in your first call.
Yes
I consume alot of your content screen off with youtube premium. The constant cuts to silence make me want to skip this to come back later, but may likely forget. This may suppress your views as I see these comments alot on similar content. Consider a voiceover or something!
Love the video Tomi, one suggestion, give the title cards in between the conversation beats a bit more time to breathe, I had to keep pausing the video to read what was displayed.
Really appreciate the pauses with informative notes along the video
Glad you found that helpful!
@@Delivrdbut possibly give a little more time , I bet you I had to go back 10 times or more. Loved them though!
That was a very real life negotiation. You got them to come down $100 bucks which seems like nothing. But Toyota doesn't negotiate much and $100 is 100 bucks. I have always walked away from every Toyota dealership when I tried to negotiate a lower price from their advertised price and they wouldn't budge on price. I only buy Toyotas from private parties to get a good to fair deal. Now with Ford, Chevy, and Dodge, there are dealerships that will negotiate. Honda as well. But not Toyota.
This was pretty cool! When you hit him up for the 2nd OTD price, he accurately quoted you 43814....so that's good on the dealer to not "mess with the number" on the phone. Some might say "well Tommy, YOU messed with the number"....no, you're the buyer, if you could get it for $1, that works. Haha. I also agree with even the $100 at the end off....every little bit is money that can cover your transpo costs or help pay sales tax, etc.
I would rather pay you that extra money than get ripped off by the dealer and I’m still watching your videos everyday learning about the car market, as an adult I don’t know why most if not all dealerships rip you off on service and buying a car it makes me frustrated sometimes but your videos help
His videos remind me why I will never walk onto a car lot ever again. You ever get the urge to go car shopping just watch a Tomi video and that feeling will pass. Oh, the last time I bought a car from a dealership was July, 15th 2003 worst day of my life and just buried my Mother. Great business model these schmucks have.
I couldn’t agree more. My wife & I recently purchased two brand new vehicles using an auto broker. This was before I discovered Tomi & his services. I respect the hell out of what these guys do for a living. The use of an auto broker was a small cost at the end of the day to save myself the headache of calling multiple dealerships, trying to negotiate with them over the phone or in person, the back & forth games with the sales manager & finance, etc. For me, my time & energy is way more valuable & even though I could do these things on my own using the knowledge that Tomi & his team give us for free, I’ll happily pay them to do it for me! Keep up the great work & videos, Tomi! You’re making a major impact on the car buying process! Oh & welcome to Charlotte as well! Hope you & your lady are enjoying it so far!
Do it yourself.. I mean it’s not that difficult and he even shows you what he dies.
I have to practice speed reading. Holy Moly.
lot of education in this one I enjoyed it.
Thanks!
Awesome information Tomi! Thanks for the updated reality in real time! Props to you.
Hi Tomi, I've been watching yours n caredge's channels over the last few months, n i just purchased my car well under MSRP/sticker with combined dealer/brand incentives n negotiating using the tips I've learned here. A new car went from being out of my reach to possible thru learning what to look for n how to negotiate. Thanks for all the work u do!!!
I’m glad you are taking control of your car buying experience!
Love your video! My mother's deaf and she is looking to trade in her car for a newer car. Someone like you is greatly appreciate helping out my mom. I will let my mom know about your service. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed the video! I’d be more than happy to help your mother with her car trade!
Purchased a 24' RAV4 LE with quite the surprising amount of added accessories in February. I was astounded when without knowing what I was doing, I simply said I'd take it if they removed the add-ons and they agreed. $32,400 sticker price. They let it go for $27,800 out the door. It was a Wednesday at the end of the month. There was a freezing rain falling. I was the only customer in the dealership. It was my 3rd car from that dealership in 6 years. I dealt with the same sales manager on all 3 cars. And they had way too many RAV4s on the lot just sitting there in the freezing rain. Maybe that's why I got that good price but sometimes you just have to ask without really having to haggle for 6 hours at the dealership. There are so many factors when it comes to getting the right price.
I sold vehicles' years ago before I started my own business. . My manager posted a truck dirt cheap . Actually it didn't exist. We had to say it was just sold but we can take your name and info what your interested in. lol
When I bought a car in April I negotiated OTD price via email and used the following line: "Per the FTC's new CARS rule, I will not be paying for any dealer installed add-ons or junk fees." It worked.
And regarding the Chicago sales tax, all of MIssouri is just as bad. There is a state sales tax of 4.225%, and each county levies its own additional tax that is typically the same or higher. In Kansas City I paid 8.975% total sales tax.
New CARS rule was pushed back. That may be get eliminated all together.
Here in Virginia they charge us personal property tax EVERY YEAR on our cars.
@@neilquinn Many states have property tax, what you failed to show was its significant. As an example I have a 2022 Highlander and my property tax was still $1500 this year in VA, $2,200 Last year. If you buy cars like a Toyota or hybrid they rake you over the coals every year
@@tsaultie It's brutal. I'm looking to buy a used car and trying to stay around 25k or less to avoid going much past the $20k partial subsidy. Their assessments are also absurd.
@@Delivrd Oh I know, but my goal was to set the tone that I was an informed buyer.
If I went to the grocery and a $5.49 gallon of milk rang up at $6.32 they would fix it or I'd go to another store. I have done that with car dealers. I have done it and ended up continuing to drive what I had for years longer. You can milk a cow many many times but do it only once if you cut the teats and let the bag drain.
just got 2025 hrv exl 2k off didn't have to negotiate it was already priced that way with no adds i am very happy!
That's great!
Would love to see negotiation on a Sienna. I was able to get an XLE under MSRP, but only by 900 hundred. Dealers were laughing at me, but when I finally went in person they met my number.
We had a 4Runner. 1st dealership gave a great offer. 2nd dealership low balled until I told them price of competition, then countered $1k more. 3rd dealership matched 2nd and I told them unless they beat it no deal. We agreed on $300 more. I could have easily taken the first deal for 1,300 less. Not bad for 2hrs.
That's awesome!
Tomi showing why I will likely hire him in the near future.
They act like invoice is what the dealer pays. But they also have holdback and mfr incentives.
There is a big difference between a brand name dealerships that sell new and used vehicles vs. family / privately owned used car dealerships.
The one I worked for was pretty straight forward. The auction price of the car, refurbishing cost (around $1500-2k on average), plus $2-3k profit on top on average priced cars. And there were no random dealer add ons. Just $800 dealer fee, tax, registration. Seemed straight forward enough
Yes, they do get holdback but mfr incentives go to the mfr, not the dealer....
My Rav4 hybrid will come with several port installed options (PIO). These are items that are added to the car after it leaves the factory, but before it reaches the dealership. A few are: paint protection film, door edge guards, blackout decals, first aid kit and charging cables. Some of these I want but not all. The sales manager told me none of them can be removed because they are considered part of the factory build. I told the manager to call the port and tell them not to add the items I don't want. He said
he can't do that, it doesn't work that way. So now I have to pay over $1500 for stuff I don't want.
Just walk away, find another dealership. Walking away from the dealership must always be you Ace move
Bro u should do Romeoville Toyota romeoville Illinois they add crazy fees add ons on everything and refuse to move them off
Very informative, thank you!👍
Always negotiate total otd if you want the most savings. Sure discount from the msrp off the price of the car is great. But once u add back all the legal fees you didn't do as much of a discount as you initially wanted. But again you hire Tomi not for the biggest steal of the deal. You hire him for to save your time and anxiety.
This idea of negotiating OTD is a bit trickier than it used to because of a lot of dynamics.
My method is to first make sure you don't pay for any add ons, thats what we did here. Make sure those are all removed.
After that you negotiate a discount on the car, 7-10% is my general rule of thumb.
After that you negotiate trade
After that you negotiate financing.
This method is the most foolproof way to make sure you were taken care of on every part of the deal.
Exactly
I love watching your videos, tons of great info and insight! Thanks man!
Thank you!
8.5% in Chicago is better than the Seattle area. they are at 10.1% sales tax.
Yes more vidios like that, you are good, thanks.
Anytime a dealer says, “we paid more than that for the car/ I paid over MSRP for a used car,”
I always say, well that’s not very smart. I may need to wait until you goes are having going out of business sale to buy then since you’re paying more than other lots are selling them for.
I'd like to know what the difference in price would have been if a regular person would have negotiated this deal verses the figure you got at the end.
Good idea to write those numbers down, Tomi, because with so many floating around, one would get lost as to which numbers were said earlier.
This is a great video with bullet points throughout!
I'm glad you found the info helpful!
Me being "tier 1" allowed me to get what I wanted for my purchse of a '24 WRX. For 32.8k & gave me the payment i wanted @ 513/month. I got doc fee removed & window tint removed. ~850$. No other add ons or fees. 1500$- down @ 2.9%. E z p z. Didnt get gap (they were mad about that) & insurance was a bit high @ 250. If you have tier 1 credit you can do and say WHATEVER you want to get the car you want. Excellent credit makes dealers BEND. Get your credit up & skip the 1k this guy charges. Enjoy
Clearly you’re not his intended market. He caters to the people who just do not want to deal with dealerships.
Great show, great content!
Thank you!
Very educational. I would appreciate a little longer pause time to process your comments before you continue with the conversation. Thanks
Decision making experts! Riddle me this:
Stay at the same company doing something you like for a reasonable pay that will increase little for the next 20ys (we’re talking work stability you don’t often see nowadays) or go to a position doing something else you also like for significantly greater pay but that will very likely churn you out in 5yrs because tech companies just suck like that with mentality that if you’re not going up you’re a drag, get out? I don’t want to “move up” to management or “get more responsibilities. I have 2 little ones, in 5yrs I don’t want to me working 10pm or weekends…
when tommy asks 8% off does it means off MSRP and without destination fee, or with (the tax and state fees go without saying)
Question if my sales tax in Maryland is 6%, is it realistic to get out the door right at msrp?
I haaaate the pauses
Great channel! I’ve learned so much. You need to turn this into a Comedy Channel one day 😂🔥🔥🔥🔥
Glad you've enjoyed the videos!
Pause it for a couple seconds longer to read your captions please
nice job
Thank you!
Very easy to remove additional fees. You just tell them you won't pay any junk fees. It's that simple. If they demand you pay them you walk out. Dealerships make at least 6 grand when they sell at MSRP what with dealer holdbacks, dealer incentives, dealer rebates, floor pan assistance, etc. If you don't get at least 3 grand off MSRP you got A BAD DEAL.
I am sorry but this isn't true. Every brand is different but if a dealership sells a car at MSRP they are not making 6k a copy on the front end of a deal. I have been on both sides, and I will tell you that if a dealership is running 5-6k around the house per car deal, they are doing very well. This would be front and back and does take into consideration all the things you are mentioning.
This is especially not true on Japanese brands or Korean brands.
The general rule of "if you didn't get 3k off MSRP you got a bad deal" is also just not good or accurate advice. There are plenty of vehicles that would break this rule for you (TRD 4 Runner, TRD Sequoia, GX550, Raptor R, Grand Highlander Hybrid, Civic Type R, Civic Si, ECT)
And for junk fees, or add ons. My advice is negotiate almost everything online or over the phone where the power of "walking out" is less valuable. This strategy works on certain brands but you will run into a wall when trying this at a lot of Toyota stores. You need more leverage.
@@Delivrdgreat context here
Yes please. Thanks
How do you decide how low to go and still be reasonable.
Hi, I always buy used and I'm planning to buy a New Car for the first time. For the new car, the Destination Fee will be additional to the price you negotiated right?
Destination fee should be apart of the window sticker. If anything additional you should negotiate this off.
Now that you are so well known. It would be cool to use a voice filter and not be live for a couple vids to see exactly how much of your notoriety is helping make some of these deals happen.
You are in Chicago/Chicagoland area? I'm in Wheaton/Carol Stream area. I went to Sun Rise Chevy in Glendale Heights on Sunday to look at new Equinox's. Every car had $2240 rust proofing, some kind of backup collision protection for $300 and $180 in door guards posted next to the window sticker.
No my client is though, and I say I am where my client is.
CONTRACTUALLY, they probably can't ADVERTISE them for less than the invoice or some number based off the MSRP. Legally, they can SELL it for as little as $1 if they want.
Tomi do you have a video on what feeds you should pay like processing fees why is it that some dealers seem to charge a lot more for tax title and license when most of the time it costs around $200 if that I'm getting charged by Virginia dealer $900.00 processing fee the tax title and license is $745 which does not seem right
I have low credit score due to me paying off something i did not realize i owed instead of credit increasing it decrease by 37 points 😒 i would have already bought a car 4 months ago but my interest rate is going to kill me ...
I wanna see a vid on a price drop for a Mustang GT or Nissan Z
I get confused with Doc fees. Thay are all over the place. What is the max you will let them charge for that and how do you work that out? Thank you for your videos! -Michael Julian
I went to buy a new car last weekend. The dealer fee was $1200.00, the doc fee was $1200, and the state fee was $600. I laughed out loud 🤣.. this was not included the bs add-ons of 3k more. So, a total of 6k over retail on a pre-owned low mileage vehicle. It was easy enough to find a dealer that had the same vehicle for way less because they had ZERO nonsense and ZERO fake bs or inflated fees. Saved myself 7k when all said and done. Doc fees should really be in the $200-$300 range.
A Doc fee is a junk fee. I wouldn't pay it. The problem with most people buying cars is that they pay all these junk fees which screw things up for the rest of us that know better.
Dealer has a great price for car but they have add ons (LoJack and perma plate) that they “do on all of their cars”
Advice on how to negotiate these off?
Rav4 TRD hybrid?
Guy at the dealer is not trained at all. Just terrible. This is why people don’t like people in the car business. SM at a Toyota dealer in Oregon. Let me know if you need anything. Happy to make a deal and give great service.
Tomorrow what happens if the car has discounts already. Do you still try and negotiate 7-10% off the new marked down price ?
Can you negotiate with Mike Tomlin to put Fields back in?
Sounds like it’s and XLE Premium. They do not make a Hybrid TRD Pro rav4.
How much is your fee?
Where did you get the Harry Potter painting?
He did not negotiate $100 off. He also got rid of all of the Addons that the dealer literally said they were going to put on the car. So that could be $1000s off dealer fees he removed
it took you less than 15 minutes to negotiate $100 off. Sure that sounds immaterial when looking at a $40k purchase, but thats the equivalent of making $400/hr. Time is money and that paid off, even if it isn't sexy.
8.5% Chicago tax? Damn, that is cheap. How about 10.25% in many parts of Los Angeles County, CA.
Have you had a dealership tell you- “You should take that deal” about the other deal? Is there any way to come back from that?
"I guess I still can, are you saying I shouldn't buy a car from your dealership?"
“Well there’s a reason your calling me, I feel like if price was the only thing you were considering then you would’ve jumped on that other deal… I mean when you go out to eat to you call ahead and compare steal prices or go to reviews?”
Steak***
Btw I love watching your videos as a car salesmen, very informative and shows what to do and what not to do on deals :))
Have you negotiated anything in California like this?
Yes all the time!
Please get the editor to pot the text up longer. Way too fast, couldn't finish reading.
Video is great, sweatshirt is a dumpster fire 🔥 😂😂
Almost as bad a dumpster fire as Raven's secondary against Winston?
I would have gotten him to give it to me at an even lower price. If I don't get the sales rep fired over the sale, I'm not satisfied.
Btw you bleeped Castiels name in the beginning but didnt near the end
4:58 the note here reads “WOULD OF”. C’mon Tomi, I think you meant “WOULD HAVE” here?
Lol, try this in NY.. no one negotiates over the phone.. ever...
This is what I do for a living, including in NY :)
Nope best selling suv is now a Tesla Model Y
you didnt save them 100 dollars... you charged 1000 to do the call so you over charged the cx 900
Good video, but can you tell your editor to chill with the zooming in-and-out? lol Thanks!!
Is this sales person nuts? He has to see the other deal you are considering? Hello, Mr Salesman, and I use that term loosely, just do the deal, catch up with your paycheck. And get on with the next deal. Just do the deal.
So you charge your customer 1K to negotiate $100 of the price with no dealer fees? How does this make sense?
1) I don't advertise my service as a money saving service but a time, energy and anxiety saving service.
2) Part of the service is negotiating, part of the service is sourcing the car. This car with his color combo only have 5 in the country thats on the ground. One of these 5 reduced their price and within hours we are calling to close it up. This deal wouldn't of lasted more than a day. He priced his car to get rid of it, so us watching the market found it. Clearly he already had calls on the car, if this is in the middle of a clients work day are they actually going to call in time? Possibly?
3) I would argue the way I structured this conversation eliminated the ability for the dealership to put the adds that they were planning on adding. I made him feel like there was no chance he was adding those. There is a chance those add ons would of been added for my client.
Can I hire you soon?
Sure! Head to our website for more information:
www.delivrdto.me
Just keep walking out.
Why is the audio and video out of sync? This back and forth was too much for the little ground you may have gained.
He was nice. A hundred bucks is 1/10 of your bill so not chump change.
Simple. Tell them the little strip right next to the Moroney sticker goes away. Outright. No negotiation, at all. Remove it, and THEN we start negotiating. Yes..I have walked out before. If enough people do this, then we'll stop getting nitrogen in the other times, and the other garbage.
He said like five times that you don't want to lose money he said he can walk
You negotiated against yourselves towards the end. Went from 800 to 500 to 300 with out a counter from the dealer. As soon as the delaer got you to move off your price without giving a number, they have the advantage. As soon as you have a OTD #, all future conversations should be around that number. When you give a # , demand that they give you a # back. And do not move off yours until they do.
Dealer said hes willing to wait for a sucker
Yes and no. According to this scenario, it was already priced lower than others in that immediate area. The broker also says they're going to still try to get a lower price which there's nothing wrong with that. But I can fully see the salesman's viewpoint that they just lowered the price and want to see if they have takers and if they want any of the add-ons because they are in business to make a profit. Of course you can debate whether some of those add-on things are a scam, which mostly seem to be little or no value for the add-on, but this salesman was willing to Not do the add-ons
But nobody can fault the dealership from trying to make the most they can as long as they're up front with their breakdown.
Tell him no way
Did I catch that right? Even if you’re paying cash, tell the dealer you’re open to financing? Assume you really aren’t open to financing, it amazes me how you can lie to a dealer like that but when the dealer lies to us it’s a problem. Smh.
My general rule is to tell them you are open to financing as long as it makes sense to the deal.
What "Making sense" is for you to decide. That rate might be an unattainable rate, but being open to financing will result in a better deal. And sometimes even financing to get that deal and paying it off in 30 days
Being open to financing is different than saying "I am for sure financing".
I financed $10K of a deal for 2 years at something like 0.99% because the dealer gave me a lower price if I did so. I assume they were trying to feed $ to the financing arm. I didn’t care, I was going for lowest total cost of acquisition …I.e. it’s what made sense.
@@Delivrd the way it came across is that you’d tell the dealer you’re open to financing even if your client isn’t open to it and is purely a cash customer. Perhaps I misunderstood but that’s how to sounded. So if your client is paying full cash and financing isn’t a consideration, you would refrain from saying that you’d consider financing?
I’m not trying to attack here, I really love what you do and would love to do it myself actually.
The pausing for the the text got real annoying, either include that in the intro or at the end but pausing the video for text was a bit painful.
This was a 100% a miscommunication on me and the editor.
I didn't want this video to be delayed, but I would like it to be a "thought bubble" that you can read but the conversation continues.
Thoughts?
I actually liked it, just wish it was paused couple of seconds more so we can complete reading.
I liked the pauses. It gives you time to read it completely and let it sink in.
I liked it, don't know why it would annoy someone. It's a 14 minute video and happened maybe six times? It was informative. Maybe people don't like reading and prefer you just pause to pop in to speak that information?
Honestly if people can't be bothered to read the occasional blip of text they don't deserve your content.
@@Delivrd Thought bubble 100%
Imagine paying over 30k for a RAV.. what a joke 😂😂😂
Sounds like you have no idea what they cost
@@ToyotaTom04 🤣
Lmao. I know should’ve been 60K.!
This is top line package
Sweatshirt is hideous 😀
Honestly the worst negotiator I’ve ever heard. You just fumble thru words and it’s always the other person- sales man carrying the conversation. Very poor negotiating skills.
Sorry you don’t like it!
Clickbate title - you didn’t get the added fees removed, the guy just didn’t have time to add the addons yet because you called before he had a chance too
This isn't a clickbait title. He had the car for awhile, and all these things came with the car. He didn't charge us for them because of the things I did.
@ the salesmen said he was going to add them on, implying to me they hadn’t already added them on physically. I surmise this because he went on to say that he could add on different items if you wanted them. The title implies to us - the viewer - that you got the add on fees taken off even though they had been added, however this is simply not the case based off the salesmen’s comments
@@EuropeAfricaTrip You understand some "add ons" are not applied until a car is purchased. Paint protection for example is a spray on foam for any dealership that uses Ethos that is sprayed on after the car is detailed.
This is something they would say it "already on" even though its not actually on.
@@Delivrd I did not know that. I do know that they can’t legally tie a sale to addons though
Hey sorry im new to this so i thought id just ask...
Its typical to try and get dealer addon charges removed? So the addons are added but you dont pay extra because thats part of the car package?
And just to clarify, dealership addons is stuff like doorsill protectors, door side mouldings, protective films, and cargo liners right?
From what I understand its also typical for people to get the Doc fee (administrative/paperwork fee) removed to?