I just bought me a 2001 R81, what size fuel tank does it have? Mine has the new Mercury 150 Pro XS 4S, mine needs new carpet, latches, and new seats with middle storage coin box, I just installed auto bilge pump and new charger, work in progress lol
Congrats on your new boat! I have almost the same model as yours. Mine is a Ranger 2001 R71 Sport. So, mine only has a 125 Mercury on it. Take your time upgrading and refreshing your rig one thing a at a time. I’ve added a lot of new electronics and trolling motor as well as power poles. It’s really everything I would ever need. I love mine! Tight lines!
@@hatmakerluck4705 when you bought it did you inspect it for any kind of spider webbing or cracks? i understand boats are used and have wear and tear, but how much is too much? that would be a cool video to see. like i want a glass boat, but i'm not sure what to walk away from lol.
@@junovue I’ll make a video real soon on that man!!! I didn’t have any issues like that on this boat. This boat was taken well care of, and is super clean.
@@williamriley2528 it’s funny how big of a dumb ass you look like right now. You ever wonder why no one uses traditional transom savers anymore. A 70k rig. Yeah. Get out of here with your stupid ass man.
@@williamriley2528 99% of guys run these today for a reason. Because traditional transom savers don’t do near as much as what people might think. I’ll stick with what I’ve got. Have had one on the last 3 boats I’ve had.
@@williamriley2528 I will let you read this. This is from a forum of a guy that actually deals with these things “I've been manufacturing a 'transom saver' replacement since 2006, and have been involved in this conversation literally hundreds of times. You'd think by now I'd have a standard answer to the question about motor support and I actually do, but I think it's better to talk about the mechanical issues involved. In the old days before the power tilt system, there wasn't any way to keep the skeg off the road so a pretty bright individual figured out that by putting a bar between the lower unit and the trailer, that problem was solved. That discovery evolved into a form of support that would keep the freely pivoting motor from 'pivoting/bouncing' up and down, and keeping the full free-falling downward energy force from impacting the transom with a thud when the downward pivot range was suddenly reached. In those days the 'transom saver' was typically strapped to both the trailer and the lower unit so that the free motor couldn't pivot upward and off the trailer roller and hit the road,'pole vaulting' the motor. Boats in the past also had a lot of wood in their construction, and particularly built up in the transom for obvious reasons, and there might have been some flex in some of those transoms. On some boats you could actually grab the lower unit and push or pull to witness the transom flex in and out, and so common thinking was that by supporting the flexing transom at the trailer, the transom was being 'saved'. Now fast forward to more modern times and advancments in every aspect of boat building have evolved to include structurally integrated wood free transoms, that are engineered to carry heavy motors that produce powerful forces to push the bigger boats up onto pad and through the water. Now days the power tilt piston is the equivelent of a solid support bar that holds the motor at any angle in its' range of motion, and hold it there solidly without movement. So now that we have transoms that can handle the rated motor size, and power tilt systems that can keep the motor tilted, the only thing left is the fact that all of the motors rigging connections, the mounting and pivot bushings/bearings are still free to move uncontrolled on our rough roads, which is different from the movements that occur when the motor is pushing the boat through water, and the forces are mostly uni-directional (unless your prop is out of the water alot like mine). A 'transom saver' is really only a unversal name for a motor support these days and doesn't actually share any load with the power tilt piston, and doesn't really save your transom. What you are seeing in your rear view mirror is not the motor 'bouncing' up and down, but shaking in all directions from the clearance in the bushings and bearings of the motors rigging. The more it shakes, the looser it gets and the looser it gets, the more it shakes. The modern 'transom saver' needs to keep the motor from shaking and there isn't anything available that does a better job than the Lock-n-Haul. This solution is the first and only one that fits about 90% of all of the models and sizes of all outboard motor brands, and on any boat/trailer combo, that completely eliminates all of the clearance in the steering and tilt pivots . With the Lock-n-Haul properly installed, the motor can't move independently at all in any direction.”
@@hatmakerluck4705 It's okay...a freshman in engineering can look at one and then look at the other and tell which one is going to transfer the transom stress & vibration and which one isn't...
How about showing the dashboard and especially the switches. Every friggin video doing a walk thru does not show this. I have a new to me boat and the switches are not labeled and I can't find any damn info anywhere. The last owner knew nothing about them
I just bought me a 2001 R81, what size fuel tank does it have? Mine has the new Mercury 150 Pro XS 4S, mine needs new carpet, latches, and new seats with middle storage coin box, I just installed auto bilge pump and new charger, work in progress lol
Congrats on your new boat! I have almost the same model as yours. Mine is a Ranger 2001 R71 Sport. So, mine only has a 125 Mercury on it. Take your time upgrading and refreshing your rig one thing a at a time. I’ve added a lot of new electronics and trolling motor as well as power poles. It’s really everything I would ever need. I love mine! Tight lines!
How does your livewell work, does it have one or two pumps, does it have a pump out system, fill and recirculate and are they on timers?
Hello! What's the length of this boat? I've seen videos about this boat model but no one tells you what the length is.
18’ 10” . Sorry for the late response!
Updates? Any repairs needed?
No repairs as far as fixes go… I’ve changed the units and also added a hydraulic JP so far. Putting new seats in as well.
@@hatmakerluck4705 when you bought it did you inspect it for any kind of spider webbing or cracks? i understand boats are used and have wear and tear, but how much is too much? that would be a cool video to see. like i want a glass boat, but i'm not sure what to walk away from lol.
@@junovue I’ll make a video real soon on that man!!! I didn’t have any issues like that on this boat. This boat was taken well care of, and is super clean.
What price range was your boat in. Thanks
I got it a little under retail because I traveled such a long distance fit it. One in as good shape as this one will go for around 12,000-12500.
@@hatmakerluck4705 Thanks. Great Looking Rig
What happened to the champion boat?
Motor blew sadly. Ended up selling the boat separately.
Transom went bad... LMFAO...!
@@williamriley2528 it’s funny how big of a dumb ass you look like right now. You ever wonder why no one uses traditional transom savers anymore. A 70k rig. Yeah. Get out of here with your stupid ass man.
@@hatmakerluck4705 Let me guess you didn't put any oil in your 2-stroke... look who's the stupid ass...
@@williamriley2528 nope the motor was setup for 50:1 ratio premix.
I don't know why Ranger always swaps the numbers around soy this is a R81VS which means 18 foot
I gotta couple good ideas of you want them
Send them my way brother
You need a REAL TRANSOM SAVER...! (one that transfers the engine lower unit weight/vibration to the trailer)
These work just fine. You can watch plenty of videos about what your referring to. Not much of a difference.
@@hatmakerluck4705 Total difference... ALL of your engine weight and vibration is still being transferred to your boat's transom...!
@@williamriley2528 99% of guys run these today for a reason. Because traditional transom savers don’t do near as much as what people might think. I’ll stick with what I’ve got. Have had one on the last 3 boats I’ve had.
@@williamriley2528 I will let you read this. This is from a forum of a guy that actually deals with these things “I've been manufacturing a 'transom saver' replacement since 2006, and have been involved in this conversation literally hundreds of times. You'd think by now I'd have a standard answer to the question about motor support and I actually do, but I think it's better to talk about the mechanical issues involved. In the old days before the power tilt system, there wasn't any way to keep the skeg off the road so a pretty bright individual figured out that by putting a bar between the lower unit and the trailer, that problem was solved. That discovery evolved into a form of support that would keep the freely pivoting motor from 'pivoting/bouncing' up and down, and keeping the full free-falling downward energy force from impacting the transom with a thud when the downward pivot range was suddenly reached. In those days the 'transom saver' was typically strapped to both the trailer and the lower unit so that the free motor couldn't pivot upward and off the trailer roller and hit the road,'pole vaulting' the motor. Boats in the past also had a lot of wood in their construction, and particularly built up in the transom for obvious reasons, and there might have been some flex in some of those transoms. On some boats you could actually grab the lower unit and push or pull to witness the transom flex in and out, and so common thinking was that by supporting the flexing transom at the trailer, the transom was being 'saved'. Now fast forward to more modern times and advancments in every aspect of boat building have evolved to include structurally integrated wood free transoms, that are engineered to carry heavy motors that produce powerful forces to push the bigger boats up onto pad and through the water. Now days the power tilt piston is the equivelent of a solid support bar that holds the motor at any angle in its' range of motion, and hold it there solidly without movement. So now that we have transoms that can handle the rated motor size, and power tilt systems that can keep the motor tilted, the only thing left is the fact that all of the motors rigging connections, the mounting and pivot bushings/bearings are still free to move uncontrolled on our rough roads, which is different from the movements that occur when the motor is pushing the boat through water, and the forces are mostly uni-directional (unless your prop is out of the water alot like mine). A 'transom saver' is really only a unversal name for a motor support these days and doesn't actually share any load with the power tilt piston, and doesn't really save your transom. What you are seeing in your rear view mirror is not the motor 'bouncing' up and down, but shaking in all directions from the clearance in the bushings and bearings of the motors rigging. The more it shakes, the looser it gets and the looser it gets, the more it shakes. The modern 'transom saver' needs to keep the motor from shaking and there isn't anything available that does a better job than the Lock-n-Haul. This solution is the first and only one that fits about 90% of all of the models and sizes of all outboard motor brands, and on any boat/trailer combo, that completely eliminates all of the clearance in the steering and tilt pivots . With the Lock-n-Haul properly installed, the motor can't move independently at all in any direction.”
@@hatmakerluck4705 It's okay...a freshman in engineering can look at one and then look at the other and tell which one is going to transfer the transom stress & vibration and which one isn't...
How about showing the dashboard and especially the switches. Every friggin video doing a walk thru does not show this. I have a new to me boat and the switches are not labeled and I can't find any damn info anywhere. The last owner knew nothing about them