I just did this today on my 04 ranger. A week prior, soaked everything down with a mixture of 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid. I don't know if I got lucky, but everything pulled apart so easy. The key just needed to be taped off and the actual bar pulled out of the lower control arm by hand. I noticed I need new isolator pads between the key and the frame. So now I have to find those. Everything got reinstalled with anti-sieze painted on everything. Lol.
When you removed the 13mm tensioning bolt @2:40, you backed it out 18 turns until it was free. When you installed the bolt @8:07, you turned it until it touched the bottom of the torsion key, which appeared to be a few full turns. Then you turned it an additional 18 turns. Is this correct, or did you add more tension to the torsion bar by mistake?
Mike K it shouldn't make a big difference just try to keep both bolts for both left and right key even. You can adjust those keys to your liking. As tighter makes the ride stiffer but also gives you clearance in your front end and looser makes the ride softer but you loose clearance in the front
What if your torsion bar is extremely rusted in the control arm that hitting with a sledgehammer doesn't get it loose. Sprayed plenty of penetrating fuild in it?? What can be suggested?
What is the 2 jaw puller rated for, 2 ton or 5 tons? is there a custom point to fit the torsion key dimple? I have used the C-clamp made for this, but on the Ranger it slides on the inner crossmember and pulls the key inwards and off the true centerline of the frame bearing pads. Also, the Rt side has to have the exhaust pipe clearance for the C-clamp style torsion key compressor. That i had to removed the transmission mounting bolts to jack up the pipe clearance. A real struggle in time to correct it, and use lots of wheel bearing grease on the contact areas.
+Dan DIY I would recommend using at least a 2 ton puller for this job. This vehicle does not require a special bit, so any 2-jaw puller bit will work fine! 1aauto.com
What do I do if I didn't count the number of turns when removing the adjuster block bolt? If I take my truck in for a front-end alignment, do they adjust this accordingly?
I believe you can also measure the height of the front wheel well from the ground before uninstalling and then tighten the bolt until the height matches. The more you tighten, the more the truck lifts in the front tyre. Maybe you can find specs on the original height of the truck in the manual or on google.
I tried to put mine back in place with a 4 inch, 2 jaw wheel puller and NO way it would not go back in place. I even tried using a 12 ton jack to get it in place. I had to take the 2 bolts out of my shock mounts, plus un-hook my sway bar end link. After I did that, I was able to put the torsion bar back just bushing it up with a long screw driver. The one they do in this clip must have been a very weak, one or wore out one.
+Brandon Miranda We wouldn't be able to say here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Yes, that's why. You need to let tension off of the spring. By lifting it from the A arm, that doesn't let any tension off of the spring. You need to lift from the center frame piece to allow the tires to hang. Then it'll be easy l way easier to adjust. 👍
@@1AAuto I have a question I tore down the whole front suspension on one side of the truck basically to replace the whole front suspension. I didn't mark the location of where the the torsion bar went. Is there a way to figure that part out? Or am I just stuck guessing..?
I forgot to mark where the torsion bar went into the lower control arm. But I did mark where it was in the torsion key. Curious if thatll affect anything when I put it back together...
+Richard Person Thanks for checking us out! You may want to get a set of pullers for future jobs that may require multiple sets. There are several sets out there that have 3-8+ inch pullers. A 4-6 inch should be sufficient.
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You forgot the rubber pad over the torsion key... Me too! 🤪
Don't forget the part where you have to cut the lower control arm to get the bar out. Lol
Did you have to do that?
What happened to the eye protection on reinstall?
and the removal, lol
I just did this today on my 04 ranger. A week prior, soaked everything down with a mixture of 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid. I don't know if I got lucky, but everything pulled apart so easy. The key just needed to be taped off and the actual bar pulled out of the lower control arm by hand. I noticed I need new isolator pads between the key and the frame. So now I have to find those. Everything got reinstalled with anti-sieze painted on everything. Lol.
Great video. Thank you. Saved lots of money. Doing it myself.😅
What if we are replacing torsion bar with a new torsion bar? How will we know where to index it or does it not need indexed?
My question also
Very educational and informative it helped me out, thanks 💯👍
so can the a arm free hang when inserting a new bar or do you need to prop it up then insert bar
When you removed the 13mm tensioning bolt @2:40, you backed it out 18 turns until it was free. When you installed the bolt @8:07, you turned it until it touched the bottom of the torsion key, which appeared to be a few full turns. Then you turned it an additional 18 turns. Is this correct, or did you add more tension to the torsion bar by mistake?
Mike K it shouldn't make a big difference just try to keep both bolts for both left and right key even. You can adjust those keys to your liking. As tighter makes the ride stiffer but also gives you clearance in your front end and looser makes the ride softer but you loose clearance in the front
I think by the looks of the chassis, this method should also work for a 95 - 01 Ford Explorer (2 gen)
The best video in this issue
What if your torsion bar is extremely rusted in the control arm that hitting with a sledgehammer doesn't get it loose. Sprayed plenty of penetrating fuild in it?? What can be suggested?
What is the 2 jaw puller rated for, 2 ton or 5 tons? is there a custom point to fit the torsion key dimple?
I have used the C-clamp made for this, but on the Ranger it slides on the inner crossmember and pulls the key inwards and off the true centerline of the frame bearing pads. Also, the Rt side has to have the exhaust pipe clearance for the C-clamp style torsion key compressor. That i had to removed the transmission mounting bolts to jack up the pipe clearance. A real struggle in time to correct it, and use lots of wheel bearing grease on the contact areas.
+Dan DIY I would recommend using at least a 2 ton puller for this job. This vehicle does not require a special bit, so any 2-jaw puller bit will work fine! 1aauto.com
The "cover" that you removed is that the isolator? I just found the blue pieces of my 98 inside it.
What do I do if I didn't count the number of turns when removing the adjuster block bolt? If I take my truck in for a front-end alignment, do they adjust this accordingly?
I believe you can also measure the height of the front wheel well from the ground before uninstalling and then tighten the bolt until the height matches. The more you tighten, the more the truck lifts in the front tyre. Maybe you can find specs on the original height of the truck in the manual or on google.
I tried to put mine back in place with a 4 inch, 2 jaw wheel puller and NO way it would not go back in place. I even tried using a 12 ton jack to get it in place. I had to take the 2 bolts out of my shock mounts, plus un-hook my sway bar end link. After I did that, I was able to put the torsion bar back just bushing it up with a long screw driver. The one they do in this clip must have been a very weak, one or wore out one.
Only jacked up one side of the truck?
These are the nightmares i fear. Hours upon hours of lifting misery trying to get something back into place is the worst part of car repair.
How big does the puller have to be?
Do they wear out or do i just need to re-tighten the torsion key ? Cuz it feels like the front end bottoms out
does it make it easier to re- tension the key with the wheels dangling or jacked up on the axle?
+Brandon Miranda We wouldn't be able to say here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I am a local mechanic. And what do you mean? Y’all have your wheels dangling so that’s why I’m asking.
Do the torsion bars go bad like leaf springs?
Mine are the originals from 2002.
I could not tighten the 13 mm nut to add height. Is it because I put the jack as if to change the wheel then in the middle of the front frame ?
Yes, that's why. You need to let tension off of the spring. By lifting it from the A arm, that doesn't let any tension off of the spring. You need to lift from the center frame piece to allow the tires to hang. Then it'll be easy l way easier to adjust. 👍
This video is titled incorrectly. Its for replacing the lower control arm. They reuse the stock torsion bar.
When replacing the lower control arm do you just loosen the 13mm bolt and tension from the bar??
+DaytonCarCare Remove control arm bolts, you may need to pry bar out (rust penetrant will help) and replace with new arm
@@1AAuto I have a question I tore down the whole front suspension on one side of the truck basically to replace the whole front suspension. I didn't mark the location of where the the torsion bar went. Is there a way to figure that part out? Or am I just stuck guessing..?
@@ProjectNemesis92 guessing
Who makes the CV shaft s in that truck ??
Why don’t you guys sell torsion bars?
I forgot to mark where the torsion bar went into the lower control arm. But I did mark where it was in the torsion key. Curious if thatll affect anything when I put it back together...
Yeah it does bro
I can't find a passenger side steering knuckle anywhere (so far). Your web site doesn't have it either. :(
Not thrilled about the 2 jaw puller. It can slip off. There is a cheap tool now that removes them very well.
Which tool is that?
mid sized beefy c clamp with indent to lock in with key
I have to buy a puller, what size should I buy?
+Richard Person Thanks for checking us out! You may want to get a set of pullers for future jobs that may require multiple sets. There are several sets out there that have 3-8+ inch pullers. A 4-6 inch should be sufficient.
Works for 2wd?
+David Changet Thanks for the tip!
If my suspension is all torn down I should be able to released pressure by letting the lower control arm down couldn't I ?
It looks as though you reinstalled the stock torsion bar and didn't replace it.
+Cartoons by Sticky Cactus Ink Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
@@1AAuto completely misleading. Wasted my time.
Those bars can break at any time if they rust. Don't go under your truck unsupported :lol:
Yup happened to me just now almost died
Ew, salt belt truck.