Brake Job - 2014 Nissan Sentra
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- The brakes on this 2014 Nissan Sentra SR are worn out and looking pretty crusty. Let's throw some parts at it!
We also look into the Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake lube and find out if it's safe for caliper slide pins.
Nissan puts the plastic sleeve on the pin to give mechanics something to talk about while they're doing brakes.
Mission accomplished!
This has plagued me. I've taken calipers back off because I put the plastic pin in the wrong spot whilst having zero clues as to its function.
Edit: a word
It's anti vibration / rattle so they don't have to machine the bore perfectly (cost savings) for no rattling in the bore can expand and contract a little I've fixed a noise with the brakes just by replacing them on a Mitsubishi caliper had a ton of up and down movement basically same function on Nissan.
They only need one because it's redundant the top is connected to the bottom
@@Michael-uo4jj do you know why they are putting them on the top side of the bracket over the bottom and is it better there instead if the opportunity is there?
We have plenty to talk about at nissan other than the placement of that rubber on the pin. Mainly making fun of other techs mistakes and yelling across the shop about it 😂
I wear headphones when I watch. Kept swatting at my ear every time one of those flies flew by the mike.
Me too. Even when editing it.
I thought the flies were in my room, sorry, I was watching Dance Moms, then I saw a nice blue car and now here I am. I never know how that happens. I saw tools and everything. Nice video though.
I had a small moth in the room here and dang if that didn't trip me out when one of your flies landed on my monitor!
Same here 🤣
Yep
🥰 rust and brakes and lube 😍
You forgot brake clean Mr. O lol
I used your "Here's your problem lady" line on someone I knew and he said "Do you know Watch Wes Work on RUclips"? It was at that moment, coffee flew from my lips at mach 7.
and she doesnt know who south main auto is?
And many others!
I was watching this at 2X. That hammering on the rotor - - Wes has rhythm. Thanks for digging into the brake parts lube mystery.
You too!
Did you watch the Mannheim John Deere tractor repair video when Wes was tapping on the valves? I had to watch that several times - the sound and rhythm was just awesome!
I've used the purple goo for many years! Eric is right, there are no problems. He's in NY I am in north east PA. Here is what Permatex says:
Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant is a 100% synthetic lubricant containing real ceramic solids for extreme performance under the most critical braking conditions. A purple, non-melting formula, this premium lubricant is Permatex's longest lasting, most temperature resistant way to silence brake noise such as squealing and chattering. Also effective in preventing long bolt and sleeve seizing and galling; excellent on rolling and sliding surfaces operating in wet or dry conditions from -65 degrees Fahrenheit to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit. This product assures that critical brake parts remain lubricated throughout brake pad life. Resistant to corrosion and contaminants, it will not wash out. Compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber. From special-mission, job-specific lubricants, protectants and dressings, to the rigors of heavy-duty needs, count on Permatex to bring you reliability and problem-solving solutions that extend the life of your equipment.
Yeah, but... there are a lot of claims of slide pin rubber swelling and preventing reinstallation of the pins, and Permatex obviously knows about this from their customer service return message they left for Wes, since they sent him over to a different product for slide pins, and they didn't exactly come out and deny it and say 'that's impossible'
As a former employee of a brake remanufacturer we had to recall thousands of calipers and change out the purple permatex that said on the bottle "safe for rubber" - it was petroleum based and swelled the rubber to the point that the caliper was effectively seized. That was over 7 yrs ago, maybe the formulation has changed from a petroluem base.
My wife " what are you watching? " me " hangon were talking brake goo here " my wife " that's what I thought I heard "
They just don't get it!
@@WatchWesWork
Yeah! Definitely not (and never)!
😁
Wes, you must have incredibly tough skin, a brake job video on RUclips? Every single viewer here is an expert in that field ... absolutely no one has ever done a brake job video correctly. Thanks for the video.
Ladies and gentlemen, we finally have found THE expert!
Its cool he listened to commenters and checked with Permatex to confirm.
You lay a cucumber on a street in Northern Illinois. Next day you got a pickle
And then they hit you with a pickling tax.
Watch Wes Work noice
"There goes the fuzz " ... I'm 71 and haven't heard that term for near 50 years ... I wonder how that term originated because I actually forgot ...
that's what we called then in Ontario Canada in the 50's and 60's they were always fussing or buzzing , and in Winnipeg the street cops wore buffalo coats and looked fuzzy . lol
@@oldbiker9739 that makes sense... I've heard that expression a lot in the US, I wonder if it made its way down here from Canada.
Customer can watch RUclips and view the Quality brake job she got. Some shops would just replace everything, Wes showed that you can clean and lube parts and save customers money. If I lived close to you, my cars would be sent to you Wes. Thanks for breaking it down so us amateur's can learn. 😊👍🍻 Pray family is well 😊👍
I dont know if its always true in auto shops but I work on heavy equipment and our shop rate last I checked is 180 an hour. In a lot of cases its cheaper to put new parts on than it is to pay the labor to clean and reuse old parts. Not always the case but something to think about when you get a quote to replace parts
@@deankruse8751 Thank you for educating me with a different perspective 😊👍🍻
@@alexanderzerka8477 I've been in the industry for about 10 years now and I've never seen someone rebuild a caliper. I've talked to some of the old guys about it in the past and even they said they hadn't rebuilt a caliper or wheel cylinder for many years. Don't think the rebuild parts are even that available anymore in most cases, at least not in stock.
@@alexanderzerka8477 ahh that makes sense. I'm trying to think where this might be?
@@deankruse8751 absolutely the truth in the HD world sometimes. I've replaced a lot of components because the time to clean them up would far exceed the cost of replacement for the customer.
Regarding EPDM: Any rubber that comes in contact with brake fluid can be assumed to be EPDM. The main hallmark of that stuff is that it is brake fluid compatible.
I think this would apply to most slide pins as well, but no way to be really sure. I'd not be worried as swelling isn't really an issue with the boots - it's a stationary seal.
Indeed, I’ve used the purple grease from Permatex with no issues for years.
These little rubber caliper bolt “sleeves” (that's the most common name for these) are anti-rattle devices for the calipers. The sleeve provides additional friction, which prevents the brake caliper from rattling/chattering within the confines of the caliper bracket.
Which slide pin is it supposed to go on? Top or bottom?
@@mgena717 bottom.
Also at 16:42 the pads are up side down the ear on the clips goes in the squealer
You had me laughing with the “landscaper” comment!
Brakes have gotten more complicated since I worked on drum types in a shop. Yes I’m that old.
Back in the 60s, I used to re-line brake shoes and grind the shoes on an arc machine to fit the drums. Might be about the same era as you.
I work on drum type brakes everyday they haven’t gone anywhere. They are mostly on trucks or small base model cars.
Really starting to love Saturday's that these videos are out, drink my coffee. And enjoy watching them
your brake clean can is broken, it didn't make any noise.
Hmm. Maybe there's a warranty.
The last time I lived in Iowa a friend from Oregon came for a visit couldn't believe the color of the dirt. He'd never been away from the west coast and had no idea dirt could be so black.
Camarata would have used a mini excavator to pull those rotors...
LOL, THATS why I watch so little of the Sea-can guy...
Nomadic Dullard and would tell us how the manufacture is at fault
@@paulsilva3346 if it works it works, cant knock the guy
@@paddyici6629 Just showing reason.
I worked in shop during college...mostly rice burners...the guys used a copper color anti-seize for brake jobs. Stuff would stay with you for days...
Surprised Permatex called you back AND gave you useful info 😳
They are actually a very good company. If you ever have trouble, or questions they tend to respond. Unfortunately in today's it often takes a day or so to get a call back though. No matter which company it is.
You're one of only a handful of people that I've ever seen push the piston back into the caliper using a screwdriver. My dad taught me that 20 years ago
Yes, good tip, dead obvious but I'd never seen it before and my dad didn't mention it.
Awesome that you checked on the lube and didnt just ignore the comments and keep using it! Thanks for doing that
You guys are persistent.
@@WatchWesWork Like a bunch of black flies!!!
We were at the lake all this last week. Even out on the boat in the middle of the lake, those black flies ate is alive. Another great video. Brake job is a common and easy job done with standard tools. Thanks for the how to.
I never remember them being an issue as a kid. Supposedly wetland restoration has brought them back.
There was an explosion at the Nissan factory today, they said it was raining Datsun cogs!
ROFLMHO!
Sil-Glyde is absolutely the bomb for caliper sliders. There are similar products out there, but some of these seem to 'dry out' where Syl Glyde doesn't. Good on you for reaching out to confirm and props to the manufacturer for being forthright.
Sil-glyde is only good to 500F. Breaks get freaks hot! Specialy in hit enviroments. I have had sil-glyde break down & harder in short order. The permatex grease is good to 3,500F
Love the video as usual; surprising the brakes wore out before that CVT pooped its trousers
👌🏻🤣👍🏻
Heh. We'll see how long it lasts.
Yeah, those CVTs are not popular on the used market here in europe. Lots of maintenace, especially those that had the "lifetime fill" of fluid that was never changed.....
Yup, they made the CVT have a lifetime fill on the fluid - you just replace it as part of the transmission swap at 100k miles or when it spews cogs, whichever comes first.
Awesome textbook job on those brakes, you and Eric O are the best guys on RUclips. Thank you for saving me thousands of dollars in car repairs!
Excellent video Wes. Thank you for taking the time to make and share it.
Im just glad it aint me replacing those brakes, ive had enough of that, bleed screws breaking off, and i had a disk so rusted shut i had to remove the whole hub and cut up the disk, witch made a "easy" job a day work, but it was an 83 car!
I've been there.
Thought i was watching SMA for a moment then the sledgehammer come out
lol, hummed the song in my head. Bow, bow, bowbowbowbowbow, bow, bow.
big nasty!
I work at an auto parts store and I have seen rotors like those come in and people want them turned. It's incredible
It's a brand new car what do you mean it needs rotors??
I like your work! Great info, and it's just how I would do it too. You do what is needed and keep it safe and going down the road, likely better than the factory did it. Spraying the anti-seize on the hub before the rotors and also before the wheels install is what really sets you above. That is for the next guy's advantage, and you do it anyway. Keep it up.
Its an inconvenience if a car doesn't start, but its a disaster if a car doesn't stop.
Another great vid Mr J! Nice to see someone else struggling with rusty crusty crap, I'm always jealous of the guys from warmer climates who have pristine 20yo cars without a spec of rust on the underside.
20 year old vehicles here mostly have holes in them...
The most important part about driving. Knowing how to stop!
As much as i hated working in car shops i still end up watching these videos for fun.
Super helpful with the permatex investigation, thank you for sharing.
Have been using that purple Permatex for years on slide pins and have not had issues. I have two new bottles of it I got the other month and I am using them.
“...there goes the fuzz!” , I have not heard that phrase in a long time! Great video!
The first is the Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease with Moly, Graphite, and PTFE. The second is Silaramic Brake Grease which is silicone. Both of these products make claims about safe for rubber. But the makeup of the grease is directly related to the rubber it should be used on. There are different rubbers used on automotive braking systems. You will notice other brands that manufacture brake grease will also have a few different flavors.
If you look in your owner’s manual for a Toyota/Lexus or Honda/Acura product for example. It will say when lubricating the pins to use a silicone based grease. This is because any other grease will have a negative reaction with the rubber that manufacture is using. If you used our Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease you could have swelling of that rubber. Because of the compatibility between the product and the rubber.
If you look in a GM products owner’s manual (Chevy, GMC, Cadillac, Buick). It will not give you a recommendation unless it has Brembo Brakes. This means you could use either product. Using Silaramic maybe overkill for the application but it will not harm anything. I personally like to use the higher rated product on vehicles that are driven hard or towing.
Some of the newer Ford’s use a EPDM rubber in the middle of the pin, if you do not use a silicone based material on it. The rubber will swell and stick the pin and you know what happens from there.
So, it is more so the rubber that the manufacturer is using just needs to be paired with the proper grease.
I've done hundreds of brake jobs and used Permatex without one single issue.
Sil-Glyde is made from castor oil, i.e. it's vegetable oil derived hence is safe for rubber. Permatex purple is petroleum base AFAIK. I'd use Permatex Orange if I used permatex brake grease (I don't). I can't get Sil-Glyde at a reasonable price where Iive. I work on my own two Hondas. The service manuals call for 3M silicon paste for slide pins and Honda M77 (same as Dow M77 AFAIK) for everything else on the brake that needs lube. I'v come to use Honda M77, and SuperLube Brake grease for caliper pins in lieu of 3M paste. The SuperLube is a silicone grease with a PTFE additive. It's never failed me, but I only work on my own cars so my experience is very limited.
Excellent info on Permatex products, it is my understanding that EPDM is resistant to mineral based oils, but most rubber is not, so a rather diplomatic answer from Permatex. Rubber is a natural product, so not intolerant to many chemicals, so it's Silicone based lubricants for rubber items.
Great vlog, gotta hate that rust 😨.
Thanks for sharing, John.
indeed its down to the mechanic to know which is which...so basically need to move away from any products that arnt safe
The rust keeps us busy!
I like the Eric O's comments. These brake videos are handy for DIYers. Thanks for the lube information. You took a bullet for the effort.
I’m told the plastic section on the slide pin is to prevent the calliper locking up when very hot, it allows the bracket to expand enough to stay free.
There is only one, because that is all you need to allow for expansion, two would increase the slop in the assembly and lead to squeal or soft pedal.
Can't stand brands that don't spec rotors with the bolt holes for pressing the rotors off the hubs. Those things are genius, when I worked at a Subaru dealer I kept the two bolts on top of my box, and never found a rotor I couldn't pop off in seconds with my 12v impact.
This was fun to watch Wes. Really enjoying your channel, what with the tractors, four-wheelers, and now crusty brakes, it just keeps getting better and better! You keep up the fine work!
The plastic liner on the brake pin is to isolate rattle of clamping force on the torque side of the caliper.
Legend says that little plastic sleeve on the brake slide pin is a secret communication device inserted by the government to find out who hit the brakes first in an accident so they know who’s fault it is... That’s what I’ve always heard Wes 🤷🏻♂️. Or either it senses slight vibrations in the vehicle operators knee. They both sound like such accurate explanations that I can’t really decide which one it is. Awesome video BTW and excellent information about the permatex brake goo too! I haven’t heard any theories on that, but if I do I’ll be sure to pass on the information. 👍🏻
Just did a complete brake job on my '04 Ford E350 van. It only has 45,000 but driving those few miles in a rust-belt state took its toll on the calipers and rotors! If I lived in Texas or further west I probably wouldn't have had to change anything.
if you're going through all the trouble to spray brake cleaner in the guide pin chamber might as well remove the rubber boots and clean them separately and bring some life back into them. It's a good idea to clean the caliper surface where the rubber meets the metal. There is often build up there of old lubricant and other dirt and dust.
What a smart dog he knows not to go under cars.
I use the Permatex purple ceramic on the pads and the Permatex ceramic silicone extreme on the slide pins. I haven't had a problem since.
You had way more patience with that rotor then I woulda had
Man, watching your videos makes me glad I do not live in the rust belt. It's pretty nice to not have to deal with needing to put a perfectly well running vehicle in the crusher or have to fight just to do a brake job.
I have done so many brake jobs on these at work. Most of them are in similar condition. Most of them get some wire wheel and roloc treatment.
I also like to use a surface prep disc on the bolt heads so it actually fits in my socket easier.
Crusty Nissans.
Also I have used the permetex and have for years on all brake parts. Not had an issue but I switched to sil glyde a couple years ago.
Also my shop uses the same rotors. They must be decent.
Since I can get them at same cost my shop does I will be putting them on my own car soon.
Just a thought to share. I use the brushes like that as well to clean the holes out. I have a spare that I clipped the end off and put it in a drill. Seems to clean well.
I've got a Suzuki Burgman 650 scooter with a CVT. I say it's like a motorboat. The revs go up as soon as you hit the throttle and the speed lags as it comes up. I think it's great, instant torque. I've got about 40,000 miles on it. It's got a "sport mode" button that ups the RPM for the current speed by about 500 rpm and from a side street I could merge into 50 mph traffic from a complete spot safely into probably a five car length gap. I don't because they'red be "Karens" in the ditches all over the place if I did. I doubt there's anything smaller than a liter bike that can get to 50 mph faster. No flailing with the clutch and shifter, just twist and go. But don't forget that the left lever is the rear brake and not the clutch.
Didernt type of cvt much longer lasting because the belt can be replaced and it dosent have the stresses on it that a cars transmission has
You’re landscaper is very diligent.
Not so long since even inexpensive cars had two pot calipers with pistons that didn't sieze up before every pad change, and don't get me started on the quality of current liquorice rotors. Thanks for posting fella, even the straightforward jobs are absorbing.
I'll take these over the junk they used on the old trucks. Like the wedge caliper slides that Ford and Dodge used. Those never worked.
@@WatchWesWork Roger that. Mistakes were made too. Rose tinted glasses.👍👍
Wes, When I do caliper rebuilds or I have even taken apart a year old Reman that was one that was brought for my Avalon before I had got it. Well on that one it stopped retracting and the brake dragged. I had got some Castrol Red Rubber grease. and used it after I cleaned up the very lightly rusted internals, I mean just a very light surface of very light rust. I was able to coat the original seals and pistons with it and have had no more hang ups. I do rebuild calipers with new seal kits and use rubber grease on the internals of calipers from now on. Re man calipers are just cleaned and assembled dry, so the can rust easily, perhaps even just from sitting on the shelf in the box. The Sil glide is safe for internals also and I have that now as well as the red rubber grease. Some MC repair manuals also show using grease on master cylinders for brake as well as hydraulic master cylinders for clutches and master cylinders. .
I don't use either Permatex product... Go to any good welding shop and get Walter Rock 'n Roll Ceramic anti-seize. Got us to several SCCA GT1 championships. Will work on factory brakes too.
Thanks for the public service announcement on the purple goo - was going to pick some up after seeing you rockstars using it...glad I procrastinated haha.
I was glad to see you use a real torque wrench on the lug nuts. Most places use those extensions on their air tools that supposedly tighten to the correct torque. I've never gotten my wheels back with the correct torque using that method. Never.......
the solid pin goes at the beginning of the rotation ,to explain if the rotation is clockwise ,it would go on the top and the one with the rubber at the bottom ,when you brake the caliper is forced at the top hence the solid pin and the bottom can vibrate hence the rubber bushing to prevent that
I've seen Eric O. use it on caliper pistons and the pads but not on the guide pins. There I usually see him use silicone paste.
I have been using the Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Lubricant for about 5 years. No problem with rubber boot as others may have experience such. I use it in my own cars, family, friends. Product works pretty darn good 👍
No batteries were set on concrete during the making of this video.
Wouldn’t matter anyways
@@blitzcourt5021 I love when people get upset that I set a battery on the ground lol I try to say it doesnt matter but they never believe me oh well
@@koloy999 that was old school, doesn't apply anymore.
@@papabits5721 but if you try to tell people that,, they come up with anecdotal stories of how it happens to them all the time with modern batteries. Some folks just don’t want to learn.
@@dadlife9921 some things never die
The o-rings are inside the guide housing.
Petroleum distillate ingredient is the issue that causes swelling to orings.
Always open bleeder valve prior to manually compressing caliper piston.
Reminds me of working on my 25 year old Toyota here in Arizona. I found a bolt with a little bit of rust on the head- what a nightmare! 😁 ----Aaron
For years I used generic silicone paste, then under influence from Eric O I switched to Permatex purple, which seems more viscous at room temp. Mostly I was uncertain about high temp performance of silicone paste. However now I see that Permatex purple is hard to find, and Permatex have gone back to silicone for slides after all! Getting hold of information from the company will be challenging, I can understand why they would be reluctant to disclose data that might one day be used against them in a legal sense. I know that Eric's experience over years has been reassuring so I haven't thrown out the purple yet, though it may take some time to go through the whole remaining bottle. I think I'll stop using it for slides but there are plenty of other places where that viscous paste may work fine. Eric uses grease as an antiseize lubricant behind the stainless steel clips holding the pads in place, so maybe there it would work fine. I never quit using antiseize at that site.
I used this product last year on my toyota camry and this year i took the pins out to lube them and noticed that o-ring and boot has swelled to the point that i have to replaced them .Now i know why!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for your video
Those glidepins, i allways replace them when changing breakpads on my volvo, i know its not needed but they are very cheap and it comes in a kit with the pads, might as well replace them :)
Those flies made me wave my hands at them, wife thought i was crazy haha :)
Great video wes, its great to see you work :)
Watching from Sweden.
Live the videos keep em coming really appreciate the time you take to explain what your doing and the time you take to address comments you receive
It says on the front of the tube of sil-glyde "Squeaking fan belts". I don't know about all that. Great vid as always!
My car is a CVT, had it from 2006. Took a time to adjust to it. Like it.
I'm from CT I've been in NC for 13 years what a treat working on cars/trucks here with no rot I don't miss the torch to everything that needs to move haha
Thnx for the info on the permatex. Eric, frm SWG, is using a pink lube. I lookd high n low & cant find. Im a senior who used anti seize for YEARS. Never had probs but I learned it too, is bad for rubber. We used to used liquid ruglyde for mounting tires when I was a teen. I bought silicone gel & use anti on no rubber parts. I own a '19 prius & I jst DID my brakes, no pads were fine, jst cleaned/lubed all parts for the reason that Sentra was. I've heard Prius go 100,000 miles before brakes. I dont want to be fighting them later.😉 GREAT VIDEO! 👋
Nice job and good catch on the tire.
Thank you. It’s the little details that you mention that make the difference The smallest thing can become a snag.
Awesome dog. Cheers
"Click" now where have I heard that before. Enjoyed this video bro. Stay safe up your way
Black Fly / Gnat / Mosquito Repellent:
Lemon Eucalyptus: 30 drops
Vanilla Extract: 1 Teaspoon
Witch Hazel: 4 ounces
Mix ingredients in a spray container.
I liberally spray the inside and outside of my cap.
I then spray my arms shoulders, and back of my neck.
Insects will not bother you!
I have used this recipe for years. Try it!
Great video. You are one of the few to have calm thorough discussion about things like the brake goo, I appreciate it.
I just bought a truck from a buddy who lived in CT for 6 years. Now I know what it's like to work on a east coast vehicle. Lots of cutting wheels and oxy-acetylene.
And PB Blaster. And cheater bars. Amd swearing. And threating to buy nothing but New vehicles from now on.
Ahh the Good ol Bike Barn up ahead during the test drive lol
must be nice to be able to work by yourself
Super nice shop! I spy a lathe and vertical mill and of coruse nice lift. wish you lived next door.
I planned on doing rear brakes on a Miata today and wahLa there you were on brakes, learned a couple things so, thank you
Looks like the brakes out there are the same as up here in NH, they all look like they’ve been sitting on the bottom of the sea next to the wreck of the Titanic!
You and your fancy tools like your screw-pry-bars! So inaccessible for the everyday person ;) Nice work Wes.
Heh. My screwdrivers get retired into pry bars...
I work in the rust belt as a mechanic for Nissan - as far as lube goes, all we use for pins and shims is high temp clear silicone based grease ... Generally to keep the brakes from seizing up and rotting out youll need to take everything apart to service in a year anyway
I spend alot of my time freeing up caliper pins and grinding down rust and scale from caliper brackets - I always paint the bare metal under the shims with hi temp paint. Pretty much every bolt needs to make a trip down to the wire wheel lol
Been watching your vids from quite some time. Love your clever and tidy methods. Your shop is awesome too. What sticks out to me the most though is the sheer amount of rust and corrosion all the vehicles there. I´m not sure where it is, but it looks like a snowy place. You got a challenge there with almost every single nut and bolt you have to break loose. Things are way easier in dryer climates, it is not even fair!!
I think Eric from SMA still uses it and praised it heavely in one of his recent brake job vids.
3:30 THIS IS ONE "BANGING" VIDEO!!
I've used the purple stuff from advance for over 12 years and have never had an issuse and had many come back for brakes years later and no problems
You are very smart it working with volts and amps. But the purpose of torqueing a Bolt & Nut has a reason for the torque valve. Hope this is a comment not a criticizing your method.
I've also had the purple ceramic permatex swell the rubber boots on a Toyota. It still works well for the backs of pads, but I use different stuff for the slide pins
Great information. I bought the new orange bottle as soon as it was available. Hard to find in my local parts store. I believe O'Reilly's has it for sure. I've started to buy most of my lubricants and other chems from Amazon.
"Let's drive my giant snowmobile" 😆
Great video as usual Wes!
You should consider getting a milwaukee m18 Mid torque 1/2" impact as a replacement for the air one. That thing is awesome and makes brake jobs so much easier...