I have a TC-K45, which has a similar transport - same problems with the autostop; but I did eventually fix it. Had to disassemble the whole thing much like yourself!
SONY TC-K4A купил в 1982, продал в 90х. Красивая, с "вечной" феритовой головкой. С плавным открытием приемника кассет. Она уверенно выдавала 12 кГц на нормальной пленке. Что огорчило - изношеные пластмассовые клавиши - их надо смазывать. Починил - наклеил жестяную полоску по профилю клавишь, смазал. Автору большой респект за трудолюбие и целеустремленность.
@@retrodeck1956 I thought maybe the A in the end stands for Advanced because it was released 3 years after the initial model. There’s no instruction manual on the web for the K4 model. But it looks like they just arranged some of the buttons on the front differently.
Update Jun 4th, 2024, i own the TC-K1A/2A/4A/5 and 6 and . . . . the TC-229SD. Skip the TC-K7II. Make my own RM-30. Renew elco's, belts and pinchroller. Mechanisch for auto stop is from poor quality. Demagnetisize the audioheads. The blue finish on the VU meter lamps are removed so it gives a warm white light I love more.
Hello. Of interest, and if I'm not mistaken, many of these cassette decks employ a 2.5mm motor shaft, so if the motor truly faulters - it's trouble! My solution was and still is (for now) to use a 'sleeve' so I can use a 2mm shaft motor for these 2.5mm pulleys. The problem is though - getting absolute true concentricity. Also, from my observations. the autostop feature on these and similar Sony decks is a mechanical one - the problem being that the mechanical 'stress' (although small thanks to the worm drive gearing) does impact on the 'loading' on the motor - study the average current/torque and you will see and rise and fall in average current. Thanks for posting this video - interesting!
Hi. You hit the point as much as possible. This is indeed the problem here as well and therefore the device will never be perfect. I just didn't want to describe this in such detail in the video, because I think there are very few people who understand and know as much as you do. Basically, if I hadn't made a video about an interesting repair, I would have thrown it away. Thank you for rating it.
I have a TC-K45, which has a similar transport - same problems with the autostop; but I did eventually fix it. Had to disassemble the whole thing much like yourself!
SONY TC-K4A купил в 1982, продал в 90х. Красивая, с "вечной" феритовой головкой. С плавным открытием приемника кассет. Она уверенно выдавала 12 кГц на нормальной пленке. Что огорчило - изношеные пластмассовые клавиши - их надо смазывать. Починил - наклеил жестяную полоску по профилю клавишь, смазал. Автору большой респект за трудолюбие и целеустремленность.
Thanks...
Чем отличается от k4 1976?
@@erickbooster1 The front is different, but unfortunately I don't know if there is anything else besides that. I hope someone gives an answer. Thanks.
@@retrodeck1956 I thought maybe the A in the end stands for Advanced because it was released 3 years after the initial model. There’s no instruction manual on the web for the K4 model. But it looks like they just arranged some of the buttons on the front differently.
Update Jun 4th, 2024, i own the TC-K1A/2A/4A/5 and 6 and . . . . the TC-229SD. Skip the TC-K7II. Make my own RM-30. Renew elco's, belts and pinchroller. Mechanisch for auto stop is from poor quality. Demagnetisize the audioheads. The blue finish on the VU meter lamps are removed so it gives a warm white light I love more.
Hello. Of interest, and if I'm not mistaken, many of these cassette decks employ a 2.5mm motor shaft, so if the motor truly faulters - it's trouble! My solution was and still is (for now) to use a 'sleeve' so I can use a 2mm shaft motor for these 2.5mm pulleys. The problem is though - getting absolute true concentricity.
Also, from my observations. the autostop feature on these and similar Sony decks is a mechanical one - the problem being that the mechanical 'stress' (although small thanks to the worm drive gearing) does impact on the 'loading' on the motor - study the average current/torque and you will see and rise and fall in average current.
Thanks for posting this video - interesting!
Hi. You hit the point as much as possible. This is indeed the problem here as well and therefore the device will never be perfect. I just didn't want to describe this in such detail in the video, because I think there are very few people who understand and know as much as you do. Basically, if I hadn't made a video about an interesting repair, I would have thrown it away. Thank you for rating it.
@@retrodeck1956 Thanks for the reply!