Enjoy your videos. I recently picked up a 1981 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD. I realized after a short distance that the original "buckhorn" handlebars had to go. No control, literally. I purchased a set of the EMGO bars you recommend. You might want to mention that you need to drill your own holes in the bars for the pin locators inside the control switches and that the bars are not knurled where they mount. I used several small pieces of very thin rubber where the knurling would be for grip/friction. The cables are now to long and I will use your recommendation for the Motion Pro ones. Thanks again.
Hi J, good point about drilling the holes! I have done so many handlebar conversions that I forgot to relay some of the details. Simply tightening the bars should prevent them from rotating even though they aren't knurled. Also, I used the clutch cable from a KZ1000J since it's a bit shorter than the LTD/CSR cable.🙂
Very nice bike Jon. It has that smooth Kawasaki sound and the Delkevic only enhances that. Good information 'bout maintaining a 40 year old motorcycle. KZ1000 was what the police (CHIPS🙂 ) used, yes?. Those were quick bikes. I'm 6-1. The T-rex reference is spot on. You really have me thinking about changing my laid back bars. Take care... C.J.
Thanks C.J. Yes, the CHIPS bikes were KZ1000s. I have a feeling that if you get the bars right (for you) you will enjoy the bike even more. Over the years and many projects I have tried drag bars, euro-bend bars, superbike bars, etc. I am currently settled on the Emgo Magna Wide bar. It is inexpensive, comfortable, and offers the leverage that the heavier vintage bikes need. It will transform the handling of your machine. What bike are you running?
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 I've got a 1980 Suzuki GS750L. I was looking at those bars on-line. Did you do a 4 or 5 inch rise? If I measured correctly the stock bars are 'round 8".
@@cjc_0167 I went with Emgo part # 23-12565. I would recommend getting Motion Pro clutch and throttle cables for a GS750E - they're shorter than the L cables and will make the job much easier. I run this bar on my GS1100L and GS750E among others. Total cost should be around $80 - it will really transform the handling.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 LOL. Here I go ! 😀 I just ordered the same bars from Dennis Kirk. I'll wait to see how they are b4 ordering cables. Thanks Jon...C.J.
Hi jon another great vid. gota say ive the delkevic stainless steel megafone on my bike and i recomend it to others. looking at your ceramic headers peeling away. i heard of a guy that has same exhaust as yours and his was peeling away too on the headers , and hecomplained to delkevic and they sent him a new full exhaust system and he got to keep the peeling one. just thought id mention this to you.
Thanks David. I complained to Delkevic as well and they sent me a new exhaust. I just haven't had the chance to put the new one on yet. So their customer service has been great. We'll see if they fixed the problem shortly.
I've just put the straight pipe version of the Delkevic on my '81 Z1000 LTD (essentially same bike but with mag wheels), did you ever do anything about the crackling on the overrun ie richening up idle mixture, or is it just the nature of the beast?
Going 1 size up on pilots and mains and three turns out on the idle mixture screws seemed to work great for this pipe. You may need to go even richer for the straight pipe.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 It's currently on standard 37.5 - 122.5 jets, definitely weak at low/no throttle, I'll give the next size up a go. Even with standard pipes it's weak at idle, I blame E5 fuel.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 Yes, after giving them several thorough cleans with jets removed etc, I made my own U-tube manometer years ago for balancing the VM34's on my 650. A simple 4 foot 'U' of clear 6mm hose filled with Scotoiler blue oil, it's easy to get oil to the same height on each leg of the 'U'. And the pilot air screw and pilot jet blanking plug O rings are new, they were a bugger to find.
Not always but I think I did for the CSR1000. I got cables from Motion Pro. I got the cables that fit a KZ1000J because they were shorter and fit the new handlebar better.
Enjoy your videos. I recently picked up a 1981 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD. I realized after a short distance that the original "buckhorn" handlebars had to go. No control, literally. I purchased a set of the EMGO bars you recommend. You might want to mention that you need to drill your own holes in the bars for the pin locators inside the control switches and that the bars are not knurled where they mount. I used several small pieces of very thin rubber where the knurling would be for grip/friction.
The cables are now to long and I will use your recommendation for the Motion Pro ones.
Thanks again.
Hi J, good point about drilling the holes! I have done so many handlebar conversions that I forgot to relay some of the details. Simply tightening the bars should prevent them from rotating even though they aren't knurled. Also, I used the clutch cable from a KZ1000J since it's a bit shorter than the LTD/CSR cable.🙂
Very nice bike Jon. It has that smooth Kawasaki sound and the Delkevic only enhances that. Good information 'bout maintaining a 40 year old motorcycle. KZ1000 was what the police (CHIPS🙂 ) used, yes?. Those were quick bikes. I'm 6-1. The T-rex reference is spot on. You really have me thinking about changing my laid back bars. Take care... C.J.
Thanks C.J. Yes, the CHIPS bikes were KZ1000s. I have a feeling that if you get the bars right (for you) you will enjoy the bike even more. Over the years and many projects I have tried drag bars, euro-bend bars, superbike bars, etc. I am currently settled on the Emgo Magna Wide bar. It is inexpensive, comfortable, and offers the leverage that the heavier vintage bikes need. It will transform the handling of your machine. What bike are you running?
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 I've got a 1980 Suzuki GS750L. I was looking at those bars on-line. Did you do a 4 or 5 inch rise? If I measured correctly the stock bars are 'round 8".
@@cjc_0167 I went with Emgo part # 23-12565. I would recommend getting Motion Pro clutch and throttle cables for a GS750E - they're shorter than the L cables and will make the job much easier. I run this bar on my GS1100L and GS750E among others. Total cost should be around $80 - it will really transform the handling.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 LOL. Here I go ! 😀 I just ordered the same bars from Dennis Kirk. I'll wait to see how they are b4 ordering cables. Thanks Jon...C.J.
Hi jon another great vid. gota say ive the delkevic stainless steel megafone on my bike and i recomend it to others. looking at your ceramic headers peeling away. i heard of a guy that has same exhaust as yours and his was peeling away too on the headers , and hecomplained to delkevic and they sent him a new full exhaust system and he got to keep the peeling one. just thought id mention this to you.
Thanks David. I complained to Delkevic as well and they sent me a new exhaust. I just haven't had the chance to put the new one on yet. So their customer service has been great. We'll see if they fixed the problem shortly.
I've just put the straight pipe version of the Delkevic on my '81 Z1000 LTD (essentially same bike but with mag wheels), did you ever do anything about the crackling on the overrun ie richening up idle mixture, or is it just the nature of the beast?
Going 1 size up on pilots and mains and three turns out on the idle mixture screws seemed to work great for this pipe. You may need to go even richer for the straight pipe.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 It's currently on standard 37.5 - 122.5 jets, definitely weak at low/no throttle, I'll give the next size up a go.
Even with standard pipes it's weak at idle, I blame E5 fuel.
@@650Max Have you ever synchronized the carbs?
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 Yes, after giving them several thorough cleans with jets removed etc, I made my own U-tube manometer years ago for balancing the VM34's on my 650.
A simple 4 foot 'U' of clear 6mm hose filled with Scotoiler blue oil, it's easy to get oil to the same height on each leg of the 'U'.
And the pilot air screw and pilot jet blanking plug O rings are new, they were a bugger to find.
Hey Jon, do you change and have to change the cables when you change the bars?
Not always but I think I did for the CSR1000. I got cables from Motion Pro. I got the cables that fit a KZ1000J because they were shorter and fit the new handlebar better.
You missed the most important part of this video! You didn't turned it on before the ride, so we could hear the engine! Ill still give u a like, tho!
Sorry about that! Thanks for the like though!
How fast would that bike go?
Great question! Unfortunately, the speedometer only goes to 85mph. I think it would easily hit 125+ mph.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 yes i saw that in the video you went past 85 and i think you had another gear to go! I love those bikes
@@necrobestial Right on, me too!