I do not get your logic ? You are very keen on using parts to original specs, and found the correct high nut type. But then you trade off on the bolt type - even after explaining the importance of why they should have the specified non-threated length.
@@squatch253 Not to mention that aftermarket bolts wouldn't have the CAT logo on them. Once you explained your reasoning for methodically placing the logo's identical to one another, it makes sense to sacrifice the NON spec threads in order to keep the logo for quick visual reference!
Silver soldering advice: Use Harris black flux. It withstands higher temp without burning away like the white flux. My favorite solder is Harris Stay-Silv 56. If you need to do separate joints close together, you can use Stay-Silv 45 first, and then 56. The 45 is a slightly higher temp. I also use Stay-Silv 15 because it's cheaper and widely available, but it's a bit stickier. Works better for filling a gap.
Tip on silver soldering: it is _impossible_ to silver solder over soft solder. It just doesn't work. You will have to do your darndest to get all the soft solder off of everything before you will successfully silver solder to those parts. Even then you may have some problems, since soft solder tends to bond chemically to the top few layers of atoms in the target metal. To actually silver solder, you need about three things: clean surfaces, a lot of appropriate flux, and the right amount of heat. Clean the joint, use a paste flux that you can smear over every part of the connection area, and then heat the joint up to a low red heat, no hotter. Just like soft soldering, you don't want the heat directly on the solder rod/wire; you want the metal hot enough to melt the solder. If the joint is clean and well fluxed, to solder should pretty much flash wick into the joint at red heat. Without sufficient flux, or too high a part temp, the solder will ball up and fall off.
Couple of points on soldering. First off, even some soft solders now have a percentage of silver to them, especially the lead-free ones. Harris Stay Brite and Stay Brite 8, for example, with 8 having a higher silver content and better bridging capability. What most people refer to as silver soldering is actually brazing with a solder stick that is 15% silver. Then there is cadmium free silver solder that has a 55% silver content and is sold by the troy ounce. Obviously, the higher the silver content the stronger the brazed joint. 55% silver solder is used for high pressure applications and brazing dissimilar metals such as copper to steel. Stay Brite 8 makes a good joint that is capable of withstanding a couple hundred pounds of pressure but can fail from vibration. 15% silver sticks deliver a joint that will stand up to vibration. Soldering is not a chemical reaction and does not occur on the atomic level. Rather, it is a physical process known as capillary action. When the copper is heated, the pores expand and the solder flows into them and then is securely anchored in the copper when it cools, but the seal between the two pieces consists strictly of the soldering material. This why soft solder requires flux to clean out the pores so the solder can fill them. Flux is not nearly as necessary when brazing with 15% silver sticks because the higher temperature required for the solder to melt and flow, burns aware almost all of the impurities. It will improve the ability of the solder to flow and helps with copper that can't be thoroughly cleaned, but I have made thousands of joints without it. I always use flux when soldering dissimilar metals to insure a good joint. I have brazed successfully joints that were soft soldered, so it is not impossible. But this was always on joints that were done with lead free solder. True 50/50 solder that is made of 50% lead and 50% tin may act differently, but i have never tried so I do not know. An oxy/acetylene torch is good for brazing, but I tend to prefer a Turbo Torch connected to a B tank of acetylene as it heats a wider surface area and helps eliminate missed areas in blind spots. As always when soldering, you head the joint, not the solder and make sure you heat the entire socket so the solder flows all the way in.
The thoroughness in all your videos on this crawler is just amazing. As is the fact that there is literally not a bolt from it that's left out. Also it sometimes takes me to watch it twice to realize how well you choose filming angles. The new track looks really good. Just like putting new wheels on a sports car, but with a 80 year old crawler.
Those wide tracks make the D2 look a little like a muscle car with wide tires. Looking forward to seeing it operate in muddy conditions. As usual, Squatch sets the gold standard for care and attention to detail.
Your attention to details is impressive. I would have never thought to line up all tge Cat logos on the track pads as you did. I can only imagine all the dears and levers and linkages there are inside your brain. Toby, you are an amazing man with more patience than I would have in five lifetimes. 100% love all your videos. 👍 👍
Per your request for interesting easy to do shows, I would like to see a walk-around of your 50's era Chevrolet flat bed truck. You once said, "Maybe one day we'll do a walk-around" Please keep up the good work and prayers and luck with your eye.
OMG, did I notice that you had orientated all the track pad bolts to read CAT in line with the track?! gotta love that twitching eye! - you did clarify your reasons but we know it’s purely the twitch!
Toby, you are not only an expert on these old machines, you are definitely the Caterpillar Authority! It is amazing to see all the achievements! I am following you on this restoration since you bought this D2 tractor! And now, as always, I am eagerly waiting for the next episode!
At 25 minutes into the video. I'm having a flashback about a certain Super M radiator pad set. Being round versus square or rectangle. All those Cat bolts all saying cat to the outside that is classic Squatch 253 OCD. Ya gotta to love that.!
@@squatch253 I revel in your ATTENTION to Details.! As you play with the toys of my childhood in that. I have a hat to send ya, btw.. You have a P.O. Box. or message me on Fazebook.?
Thank you for all the detailed knowledge you have passed on. I like all those details. I can understand every detail you point out. It is just wonderful all the little things you realize and share with us. You are the best knowledge of D2s on RUclips.
As an aircraft mechanic for 36 years, retired now you always torque nut never bolt head. Maybe it doesn't matter with your application. Just my 2 cents, awesome videos love them all.
I did pins and bushings for my uncle the caveman way. He cut the pins/bushings with a torch and I beat them apart with a 20lb sledgehammer. Took me 4 days after school. I had to fix the driver three times
Squatch, I regret to advise that you may have great difficulty silver soldering on a joint that has been soft soldered, no matter how well you clean the old solder off. I had that problem on a large model of a hot air engine, that had been badly repaired with soft solder. I spend ages cleaning off the lead/tin solder from the oil supply pipes and brass unions but the silver solder just would not flow or take. In the end I succeeded with copper-phosphorous rods (Cu-P 701). They are only slightly higher melting point than silver at 730ºC (1346ºF).
I'll start sleeping soundly again when you paint over the wet stacking on your garage door. It's starting to make MY eye twitch. Pretty sweet to see those swampers on 1113!
Toby is gonna have a lot of fun in spring 2023. Once the snow is gone he be driving 5J1113 out with the swampers. Now that is gonna be epic. Also with old machines even if they are rebuilt to the finest details. There is always one or more things you miss or that need overlooking later. Know it from personal experiences.
Very good points, particularity on the grip area. We always took that into consideration in architecture school for shear calculations in particular. The threaded parts has a smaller cross section, which of course it can't take as much load.
We definitely have to get you a white lab coat with Squatch sewn on to the coat! You’ll be official! Oh and of course the little pen pocket added to. Great video as always!
Excellent Squatch, great attention to detail on the undercarriage work. All that work into building the track press really paid off when you achieved the correct track and adjustment length as you demonstrated. You sir are a craftsman, as always.
Hi Toby, you know me, often something extra. It was really nice to see you so happy with the maxi-track. Gave me a smile as well. Like many others below CONGRATULATIONS on a lengthy and demanding job so well executed. 🎉
I wish I had these RUclips videos when I worked on D2’s many years ago. I did a track swap. Didn’t change pins and bushings, but I did use the longer bolts and deeper nuts on the pads. Now I want another D2, but my wife thinks I have enough toys!
Once you have cleaned all the old solder off and out of the joints and assembled the manifold. Before you start to silver soldering the oil manifold back together, put a purge on it using nitrogen gas. That will prevent oxidation of the copper inside the manifold. The black oxidation that is formed while silver soldering is hell to remove form the inside of piping. It can break loose and travel through your bearings. If you cannot get nitrogen gas then use argon. BUT DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER TO CLEAN THE PARTS!! IT AND ARGON HEATED TOGETHER FORM PHOSGENE GAS! USE A NON CLORINATED DEGREASER. ALSO DO THE SOLDERING OUTSIDE IF YOU USE ARGON The purge doesn't need to be a high volume of flow, place a vent hole high on the manifold and feed the purge form the lowest point. Good luck and practice first
good afternoon all, i have a cat d2, 53 or 54 in great shape. i recently installed a pony starter but may need a pinion i think. long story short it's for sale for best offer. im upstate ny.
Trick to successful silver solder. Use the high temp flux, as clean & free of anything as possible, removal of all previous solder, Use the best silver solder you can get or you will get to do it over.
On our D8 we kept the new master pin in the freezer for 24 hours before driving it in. Our local Cat dealer kept a flask of liquid nitrogen for the same purpose.
Love the look of the wide track on the D2. We used to have an old Case 310 or 350 6-way dozer blade on 30" pads. Yes we got it stuck several times but that thing could almost walk on water. Mainly used it for crowd and assist pulling the Vermeer T-600-D trencher through wet spots in fields. We did farm drainage tiling for many years.
You have created a monster.... 100 years from now when someone finds this in a barn abandoned they are going to wonder what the heck the previous owner was using this for that would have required those monster pads. You have created a true head scratcher for some future mechanic....
WOWZERS! We knew you'd told us the new track pads would make er difficult to access the engine components, but seeing them installed on that side really does more than words ever could!
This is a great video. Watching you rebuild it really helps me understand the way things work. Oh I knew about the carrier rollers, the final drive and the Idler wheel- but now I understand it. Knowing how something goes together provides insights. Thank you.
You know what I like about your videos? I'm just about always with you on your thought process. You keep the creative side of my brain from turning to complete mush! You definitely keep stuff interesting! Thank you! I wish I could justify spending money with RUclips stuff.
Santa will be delivering a white lab coat , you've been a good boy, it's wonderful how much you help your parents. Thank you for all these great videos
Apart from getting silver solder to stick once a joint has been soft-soldered (every scrap of the soft version has to be removed or the hard will just run off) you also run into the problem of any lead based solder left vaporising at the higher temps needed. Mucho ventilation needed and preferably some protection. Good luck.
Still struggling to accept the fact that turning the pins an bushes took up at least two inches from the overall length of the track 🤔👍wide track plates just look awesome 😎👌
@@squatch253 I think this is not comparing apples to apples, the track and chain that was on the machine was worn 100% in the pins and bushings and had reached 100% wear in its height. The chain you turned the bushing and pins on was at 75% wear in length and had only ~20% wear in its height if I remember correctly so a length test before and after the turn is more relevant to what has been gained. This is a great channel with the best content!
Eutectic has silver solder with a pink flux on it for memory it's 45%silver with cadnium . Heat the job up and wipe the soft solderoff with a cotton cloth .then polish off all the traces of solder off . Use some laco paste silver solder flux . Heat up resnably quickly . No 12 tip . A dab of the silver solder . Should be good . Retired master plumber 50 years on the tools !
The new track nuts are half the thickness!?! That's ridiculous for such a highstress application. Good call. You don't have any sisters? Playing (and winning) jacks comes in really handy for the one handed pickup trick. Those swamp pads sure do look at home 5J1113.
Great video! I was worried about the alignment of the Cat logo on the bolt heads until you eased my mind toward the end! That said, I would have set the logo to face the driver in the seat. See, you are not the only one who thinks of those little details. LOL You are also soooo right about the pad nuts covering the entire threaded portion of the pad bolt!!! Great job!
There is a reason track bolts are different from regular bolts they fit the holes tighter once the holes in your pads and rails where from having hardware store bolts you'll never find a way to keep your track pads tight
Depending on the soft solder used a new silver solder joint might be very difficult. I don't know about the new antimony/tin plumbing solders but the old lead/tin solders had to be completely removed (like nothing but copper or brass visible) before attempting a silver solder joint. The flux is also important - I use mostly Stay-Silv unless I expect to have to hold the joint in heat at which point I use some of the black flux (can't remember the name but it's commonly use to braze carbides). Finally - heat is what you need more than temperature. O/A is ok if you have a good rosebud tip but I tend to use a large Goss propane torch to get the whole joint hot at the same time. Once the flux goes glassy and looks like a still pond the silver braze should suck into the joint. If there's gaps of .010" or better look for a gap filling braze. Just some advice from someone who's been there.
hi there is a company by name of Rothenberger plumbing they make a silver solder ring in place in side with flux then heat you might find a vid on here but i know in plumbing trade when i sold them the flux and ring combine worked well to make a 100 % full fill weld part of demo was to allow customer to cut any welded area which ever way they want only to fine solder was full covered both surface perfectly something to try cheers bob Australia
Another question I hope you can answer for me, I was told by a fitter one time that the 9U had a 'high revving head' on it. I could discern no difference between that cat & the others in either engine speed or power. Do or did such things exist? These things have puzzled me for decades & it's great to finally find the answers in your seemingly vast store of Caterpillar lore.
Toby, I was a little disappointed that you installed those shiny zinc plated bolts and lock washers without some form of a patina treatment. Maybe I thought a bluing process would be suitable to match the nuts? I wasn't into the patina look at the beginning of this series, but your plan grew on me over time. Thank you.
those tracks look like put a new setta big tay'ers on yer fer-bah-fer........ good video.... i took a couple sets of worn out old Cletrac chains i had around and made some nice planter boxes for the wife out of them....they make a nice "formable" edge for along the driveway.... and they don't rot out in a couple years.
Great episode, lot of good info on what a good track compared to a worn track is! Also explains why you are going through all the effort and time to make it right!
I know it may hurt a bit, but you could take the oil manifold to a local HVAC tech. However, get yourself some soft solder and some flux. We use stay brite by Harris. Don’t be afraid to get both sides warm, especially the cast portion. When the flux starts to bubble, you can start dabbing with the solder. It will wick itself in. Just let it cool slowly for maximum strength.
When i learned to silversolder dairy stainless i found the best way was to put the parts on Metal plate, put the plate on a propane burner, heat up with refernece to a infrared thermometer and then boost with a torch to final melting point. Overheating doesnt help things…
It sure looks great with the swampers on it, buddy!! An awesome machine it will be. Once you get that oiling manifold figured out, and the rest of the track work/cab work done on it... She's really going to be a nice machine (not that it isn't already)!
Without lining up those CAT logos on all those bolts I am sure your eyebrow would have been twitching every time you looked at the ones not lined up. Great episode awaiting the first run around to break the new tracks in.
Might still be aways away from seeing the X231 project picked back up but seeing it in the background is cool. Love the content looking forward to seeing more of it.
Trapped between a rock and hard place? If it were to be worked it then I would firmly recommend bolts to spec. That shoulder before the threads is designed to stop lateral movement between the grouser plate and track chain. It's not going to be hammered so stick with the logo bolts. Maybe go gentle when turning coz those huge plates are going to grip and apply more twisting force. Also hit em with the torque wrench after it has been used. If no-one has already mentioned it - torque from the nut side. That way you are tightening the nut without potential binding resistance and flexing from the bolt shaft giving a false reading. There - told you what you already know👍
I have seen you tell about growers for working on ice when I saw that track it reminded me of the arctic and I just had a friend come back and told me a new company had never hared of growers but he said they should put them on and the first job the chekockoo company found out how a dozer can slips on ice, after the incident the welders put grower's on the track Just for your info. but it tickled both off us after they learned about this !!
Silver solder requires an acetylene torch for heat. Sliver solder melts around 1760 degrees. Personally I like to Silver solder. Makes for very strong joints.
Couple of things for silver soldering. Practice on something that is expendable until you are totally comfortable with the process. Surfaces must be completely clean and ask some pros about flux. Don't be afraid to put some serious heat on surfaces, as in cherry red. That was the temps I needed to get silver solder to work. Practice, practice, practice. Thanx for sharing, great video.😃
I completely understand that you are restoring and collecting and not for use. And I agree those 20 inch track's look awesome. I'm just wondering if, back in the day how much those larger 20 inch- tracks effected the overall power and performance of the D2's and if you can tell a difference if, any in 1113?. I think this is very interesting and can't wait for the results . Thank you for yet another awesome video...
I do not get your logic ?
You are very keen on using parts to original specs, and found the correct high nut type.
But then you trade off on the bolt type - even after explaining the importance of why they should have the specified non-threated length.
@@squatch253 There is always a story behind ...
@@squatch253 Not to mention that aftermarket bolts wouldn't have the CAT logo on them. Once you explained your reasoning for methodically placing the logo's identical to one another, it makes sense to sacrifice the NON spec threads in order to keep the logo for quick visual reference!
@@squatch253 great explanation! Beside, having all of the logos facing the same way kinda looks cool!
Are you still gonna pin this comment?
It's a trade off - you can EITHER have "CAT branded" bolts, or "to original CAT spec" bolts.
But you can't have both.
I only thought about my comments after I pressed send. Head bolts, track bolts, rear end bolts. My bad but thanks for your feedback
That master pin would have pressed home first time if you had a white lab coat, enjoyed the video as always!!!
A white lab coat with a logo for sale on the channel !!
@@jojoGarBerry Not suitable unless it buckies up the back and has extra long sleeves!
@@paintedblue1791 sleeves that don't have an opening for your hands? 😁
What IS the part number, on the lab coat, please !
@@davidhamm5626 well played! I wonder if there's a CAT NUMBER?! 😁
Silver soldering advice: Use Harris black flux. It withstands higher temp without burning away like the white flux. My favorite solder is Harris Stay-Silv 56. If you need to do separate joints close together, you can use Stay-Silv 45 first, and then 56. The 45 is a slightly higher temp. I also use Stay-Silv 15 because it's cheaper and widely available, but it's a bit stickier. Works better for filling a gap.
Tip on silver soldering: it is _impossible_ to silver solder over soft solder. It just doesn't work. You will have to do your darndest to get all the soft solder off of everything before you will successfully silver solder to those parts. Even then you may have some problems, since soft solder tends to bond chemically to the top few layers of atoms in the target metal.
To actually silver solder, you need about three things: clean surfaces, a lot of appropriate flux, and the right amount of heat. Clean the joint, use a paste flux that you can smear over every part of the connection area, and then heat the joint up to a low red heat, no hotter. Just like soft soldering, you don't want the heat directly on the solder rod/wire; you want the metal hot enough to melt the solder. If the joint is clean and well fluxed, to solder should pretty much flash wick into the joint at red heat. Without sufficient flux, or too high a part temp, the solder will ball up and fall off.
Couple of points on soldering. First off, even some soft solders now have a percentage of silver to them, especially the lead-free ones. Harris Stay Brite and Stay Brite 8, for example, with 8 having a higher silver content and better bridging capability. What most people refer to as silver soldering is actually brazing with a solder stick that is 15% silver. Then there is cadmium free silver solder that has a 55% silver content and is sold by the troy ounce. Obviously, the higher the silver content the stronger the brazed joint. 55% silver solder is used for high pressure applications and brazing dissimilar metals such as copper to steel. Stay Brite 8 makes a good joint that is capable of withstanding a couple hundred pounds of pressure but can fail from vibration. 15% silver sticks deliver a joint that will stand up to vibration.
Soldering is not a chemical reaction and does not occur on the atomic level. Rather, it is a physical process known as capillary action. When the copper is heated, the pores expand and the solder flows into them and then is securely anchored in the copper when it cools, but the seal between the two pieces consists strictly of the soldering material. This why soft solder requires flux to clean out the pores so the solder can fill them. Flux is not nearly as necessary when brazing with 15% silver sticks because the higher temperature required for the solder to melt and flow, burns aware almost all of the impurities. It will improve the ability of the solder to flow and helps with copper that can't be thoroughly cleaned, but I have made thousands of joints without it. I always use flux when soldering dissimilar metals to insure a good joint.
I have brazed successfully joints that were soft soldered, so it is not impossible. But this was always on joints that were done with lead free solder. True 50/50 solder that is made of 50% lead and 50% tin may act differently, but i have never tried so I do not know.
An oxy/acetylene torch is good for brazing, but I tend to prefer a Turbo Torch connected to a B tank of acetylene as it heats a wider surface area and helps eliminate missed areas in blind spots. As always when soldering, you head the joint, not the solder and make sure you heat the entire socket so the solder flows all the way in.
The thoroughness in all your videos on this crawler is just amazing. As is the fact that there is literally not a bolt from it that's left out. Also it sometimes takes me to watch it twice to realize how well you choose filming angles.
The new track looks really good. Just like putting new wheels on a sports car, but with a 80 year old crawler.
Those wide tracks make the D2 look a little like a muscle car with wide tires. Looking forward to seeing it operate in muddy conditions. As usual, Squatch sets the gold standard for care and attention to detail.
Good call on those larger NOS nuts, they are doing double duty with those bigger pads!
Your attention to details is impressive. I would have never thought to line up all tge Cat logos on the track pads as you did.
I can only imagine all the dears and levers and linkages there are inside your brain. Toby, you are an amazing man with more patience than I would have in five lifetimes.
100% love all your videos. 👍 👍
Per your request for interesting easy to do shows, I would like to see a walk-around of your 50's era Chevrolet flat bed truck. You once said, "Maybe one day we'll do a walk-around" Please keep up the good work and prayers and luck with your eye.
OMG, did I notice that you had orientated all the track pad bolts to read CAT in line with the track?! gotta love that twitching eye! - you did clarify your reasons but we know it’s purely the twitch!
@@squatch253 Oh I would believe it all right. Who do you think you are,a gunsmith at Holland and Holland ? Oh I can admire it,but do it ? Not me.
Great explanantion on sprocket / bushing wear...the 20" track pads look awesome!
Toby, you are not only an expert on these old machines, you are definitely the Caterpillar Authority! It is amazing to see all the achievements! I am following you on this restoration since you bought this D2 tractor! And now, as always, I am eagerly waiting for the next episode!
Extraordinary attention to detail, in both the track rebuild and in the make/edit quality of video itself. An absolute joy to watch.
At 25 minutes into the video. I'm having a flashback about a certain Super M radiator pad set. Being round versus square or rectangle. All those Cat bolts all saying cat to the outside that is classic Squatch 253 OCD. Ya gotta to love that.!
@@squatch253 I revel in your ATTENTION to Details.! As you play with the toys of my childhood in that. I have a hat to send ya, btw.. You have a P.O. Box. or message me on Fazebook.?
When you started to zoom in on the track bolts, I thought "Oh no, he has all the logos aligned doesn't he." I expected nothing less!
Thank you for all the detailed knowledge you have passed on. I like all those details. I can understand every detail you point out. It is just wonderful all the little things you realize and share with us. You are the best knowledge of D2s on RUclips.
As an aircraft mechanic for 36 years, retired now you always torque nut never bolt head. Maybe it doesn't matter with your application. Just my 2 cents, awesome videos love them all.
Same here, engineering documents specified additional torque by bolt size when torquing the head.
Additional info, in a “loose” hole like these, torquing from either head or nut is correct
I did pins and bushings for my uncle the caveman way. He cut the pins/bushings with a torch and I beat them apart with a 20lb sledgehammer. Took me 4 days after school. I had to fix the driver three times
Like learning about the D 2 nice little tractor thanks from east Texas
You need to write a book. I suggest you title it "Zen and the Art of Caterpillar Maintenance."😊
Squatch, I regret to advise that you may have great difficulty silver soldering on a joint that has been soft soldered, no matter how well you clean the old solder off. I had that problem on a large model of a hot air engine, that had been badly repaired with soft solder. I spend ages cleaning off the lead/tin solder from the oil supply pipes and brass unions but the silver solder just would not flow or take. In the end I succeeded with copper-phosphorous rods (Cu-P 701). They are only slightly higher melting point than silver at 730ºC (1346ºF).
I'll start sleeping soundly again when you paint over the wet stacking on your garage door. It's starting to make MY eye twitch. Pretty sweet to see those swampers on 1113!
Comment generators.
Toby is gonna have a lot of fun in spring 2023. Once the snow is gone he be driving 5J1113 out with the swampers. Now that is gonna be epic. Also with old machines even if they are rebuilt to the finest details. There is always one or more things you miss or that need overlooking later. Know it from personal experiences.
Very good points, particularity on the grip area. We always took that into consideration in architecture school for shear calculations in particular. The threaded parts has a smaller cross section, which of course it can't take as much load.
Another great video Squatch! 5j1113 is going to look awesome with those wide tracks on it. Cheers
We definitely have to get you a white lab coat with Squatch sewn on to the coat! You’ll be official! Oh and of course the little pen pocket added to. Great video as always!
Er, no. A _yellow_ lab coat.
@@mikewilson631 one/several of each! 😁
Seeing thoes tracks gave me goosebumps.
This was a MAJOR achievment. Thanks again!
Excellent! With that new width, you could nearly walk on water... nearly. So nice to see her nearing completion! Stay well, stay safe!
Excellent Squatch, great attention to detail on the undercarriage work. All that work into building the track press really paid off when you achieved the correct track and adjustment length as you demonstrated. You sir are a craftsman, as always.
Hi Toby, you know me, often something extra. It was really nice to see you so happy with the maxi-track. Gave me a smile as well. Like many others below CONGRATULATIONS on a lengthy and demanding job so well executed. 🎉
The larger track pads you are installing really make this baby look sweet I love it
holy shit that alignment when you lower the sprocket down on to the track! *Chefs Kiss*
I wish I had these RUclips videos when I worked on D2’s many years ago. I did a track swap. Didn’t change pins and bushings, but I did use the longer bolts and deeper nuts on the pads. Now I want another D2, but my wife thinks I have enough toys!
Once you have cleaned all the old solder off and out of the joints and assembled the manifold. Before you start to silver soldering the oil manifold back together, put a purge on it using nitrogen gas. That will prevent oxidation of the copper inside the manifold. The black oxidation that is formed while silver soldering is hell to remove form the inside of piping. It can break loose and travel through your bearings. If you cannot get nitrogen gas then use argon.
BUT DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER TO CLEAN THE PARTS!! IT AND ARGON HEATED TOGETHER FORM PHOSGENE GAS! USE A NON CLORINATED DEGREASER. ALSO DO THE SOLDERING OUTSIDE IF YOU USE ARGON
The purge doesn't need to be a high volume of flow, place a vent hole high on the manifold and feed the purge form the lowest point.
Good luck and practice first
Best to never use brake cleaner on anything!
good afternoon all,
i have a cat d2, 53 or 54 in great shape. i recently installed a pony starter but may need a pinion i think. long story short it's for sale for best offer. im upstate ny.
0:40 laying out those bolts nuts and washers - man that feeds my OCD - pure therapy!
Trick to successful silver solder. Use the high temp flux, as clean & free of anything as possible, removal of all previous solder, Use the best silver solder you can get or you will get to do it over.
On our D8 we kept the new master pin in the freezer for 24 hours before driving it in. Our local Cat dealer kept a flask of liquid nitrogen for the same purpose.
A bit of dry ice would also work and be simple to handle.
Love the look of the wide track on the D2. We used to have an old Case 310 or 350 6-way dozer blade on 30" pads. Yes we got it stuck several times but that thing could almost walk on water. Mainly used it for crowd and assist pulling the Vermeer T-600-D trencher through wet spots in fields. We did farm drainage tiling for many years.
You have created a monster.... 100 years from now when someone finds this in a barn abandoned they are going to wonder what the heck the previous owner was using this for that would have required those monster pads. You have created a true head scratcher for some future mechanic....
WOWZERS! We knew you'd told us the new track pads would make er difficult to access the engine components, but seeing them installed on that side really does more than words ever could!
Beautiful clip corner single grousers, that little cat is going to look sweet.
Every effort you invested restoring these tracks is now paying off ! Well done!
This is a great video. Watching you rebuild it really helps me understand the way things work. Oh I knew about the carrier rollers, the final drive and the Idler wheel- but now I understand it. Knowing how something goes together provides insights. Thank you.
Well done with great explanation! My back aches after watching you!
The stand back and look reminds me of when I put wider tires on my GTO back in '76.😄
It will run so much smoother being in pitch correctly. Thanks for the cool video.
You know what I like about your videos? I'm just about always with you on your thought process. You keep the creative side of my brain from turning to complete mush! You definitely keep stuff interesting! Thank you! I wish I could justify spending money with RUclips stuff.
So well thought out and explained. You are a monument to patience.
Blows my mind you can keep a white tee shirt clean. Have no doubt you could do the same with a lab coat! Great work!
Nice video, good explanation.
This brought back some memories of doing track maintenance on a tank….. not always a joyful occasion lol
Yup, and a whole lot heavier
Santa will be delivering a white lab coat , you've been a good boy, it's wonderful how much you help your parents. Thank you for all these great videos
Great to be back in the classroom with Professor Squatch with the Cat manuals and the three ring binder.
I have faith in you with a soldering
You do nice work.
Apart from getting silver solder to stick once a joint has been soft-soldered (every scrap of the soft version has to be removed or the hard will just run off) you also run into the problem of any lead based solder left vaporising at the higher temps needed. Mucho ventilation needed and preferably some protection. Good luck.
Still struggling to accept the fact that turning the pins an bushes took up at least two inches from the overall length of the track 🤔👍wide track plates just look awesome 😎👌
@@squatch253 I think this is not comparing apples to apples, the track and chain that was on the machine was worn 100% in the pins and bushings and had reached 100% wear in its height. The chain you turned the bushing and pins on was at 75% wear in length and had only ~20% wear in its height if I remember correctly so a length test before and after the turn is more relevant to what has been gained. This is a great channel with the best content!
Eutectic has silver solder with a pink flux on it for memory it's 45%silver with cadnium . Heat the job up and wipe the soft solderoff with a cotton cloth .then polish off all the traces of solder off . Use some laco paste silver solder flux . Heat up resnably quickly . No 12 tip . A dab of the silver solder . Should be good . Retired master plumber 50 years on the tools !
The new track nuts are half the thickness!?! That's ridiculous for such a highstress application. Good call.
You don't have any sisters? Playing (and winning) jacks comes in really handy for the one handed pickup trick.
Those swamp pads sure do look at home 5J1113.
Great video! I was worried about the alignment of the Cat logo on the bolt heads until you eased my mind toward the end! That said, I would have set the logo to face the driver in the seat. See, you are not the only one who thinks of those little details. LOL
You are also soooo right about the pad nuts covering the entire threaded portion of the pad bolt!!!
Great job!
@Squatch253 With that new information, your decision was the best option!
Great Video!! What a Cool, Ultra Clean shop!!!
There is a reason track bolts are different from regular bolts they fit the holes tighter once the holes in your pads and rails where from having hardware store bolts you'll never find a way to keep your track pads tight
Depending on the soft solder used a new silver solder joint might be very difficult. I don't know about the new antimony/tin plumbing solders but the old lead/tin solders had to be completely removed (like nothing but copper or brass visible) before attempting a silver solder joint.
The flux is also important - I use mostly Stay-Silv unless I expect to have to hold the joint in heat at which point I use some of the black flux (can't remember the name but it's commonly use to braze carbides).
Finally - heat is what you need more than temperature. O/A is ok if you have a good rosebud tip but I tend to use a large Goss propane torch to get the whole joint hot at the same time. Once the flux goes glassy and looks like a still pond the silver braze should suck into the joint. If there's gaps of .010" or better look for a gap filling braze.
Just some advice from someone who's been there.
hi there is a company by name of Rothenberger plumbing they make a silver solder ring in place in side with flux then heat you might find a vid on here but i know in plumbing trade when i sold them the flux and ring combine worked well to make a 100 % full fill weld part of demo was to allow customer to cut any welded area which ever way they want only to fine solder was full covered both surface perfectly something to try cheers bob Australia
Another question I hope you can answer for me, I was told by a fitter one time that the 9U had a 'high revving head' on it. I could discern no difference between that cat & the others in either engine speed or power. Do or did such things exist? These things have puzzled me for decades & it's great to finally find the answers in your seemingly vast store of Caterpillar lore.
Toby, I was a little disappointed that you installed those shiny zinc plated bolts and lock washers without some form of a patina treatment. Maybe I thought a bluing process would be suitable to match the nuts? I wasn't into the patina look at the beginning of this series, but your plan grew on me over time. Thank you.
Surprised your eye didn't start to twitch with those shiny bolts against that beautiful patina. Love the 22" wide look.
Great vid thanks for sharing your experiences 👍
those tracks look like put a new setta big tay'ers on yer fer-bah-fer........
good video.... i took a couple sets of worn out old Cletrac chains i had around and made some nice planter boxes for the wife out of them....they make a nice "formable" edge for along the driveway.... and they don't rot out in a couple years.
Great episode, lot of good info on what a good track compared to a worn track is! Also explains why you are going through all the effort and time to make it right!
Squatch, 🙏hope the garage door is wide enough to get the D2 out.🙃🏴👍
Quite an episode Toby !!!
I like your idea of orienting the track bolts. D2’s got some “muscle” now. John
I do have a white lab coat I could send you, but you have to promise to keep it clean!
White tshirt year around although with a flannel shirt this time of year. Haha
That was almost as good as when he was rebuilding the clutch spider and said "like a ninja"
Much as Jamie on Mythbusters and the white shirt. It's a matter of style.
I know it may hurt a bit, but you could take the oil manifold to a local HVAC tech. However, get yourself some soft solder and some flux. We use stay brite by Harris. Don’t be afraid to get both sides warm, especially the cast portion. When the flux starts to bubble, you can start dabbing with the solder. It will wick itself in. Just let it cool slowly for maximum strength.
Another outstanding video.
Very nice . I was going to comment about clocking the bolt heads but you beat me to it :) . Again , great work as usual !
You've got yourself a prostreet cat! Looks awesome!
When i learned to silversolder dairy stainless i found the best way was to put the parts on Metal plate, put the plate on a propane burner, heat up with refernece to a infrared thermometer and then boost with a torch to final melting point. Overheating doesnt help things…
It sure looks great with the swampers on it, buddy!! An awesome machine it will be. Once you get that oiling manifold figured out, and the rest of the track work/cab work done on it... She's really going to be a nice machine (not that it isn't already)!
Looks like slicks on a dragster.
She's going to be wide! Love the look and the OCD attention to detail helps us sleep better too.
Without lining up those CAT logos on all those bolts I am sure your eyebrow would have been twitching every time you looked at the ones not lined up. Great episode awaiting the first run around to break the new tracks in.
Might still be aways away from seeing the X231 project picked back up but seeing it in the background is cool. Love the content looking forward to seeing more of it.
Squatch I have a pair of white bee coveralls I can send up that could stand in for a white lab coat. Haha
Trapped between a rock and hard place?
If it were to be worked it then I would firmly recommend bolts to spec. That shoulder before the threads is designed to stop lateral movement between the grouser plate and track chain.
It's not going to be hammered so stick with the logo bolts.
Maybe go gentle when turning coz those huge plates are going to grip and apply more twisting force. Also hit em with the torque wrench after it has been used.
If no-one has already mentioned it - torque from the nut side. That way you are tightening the nut without potential binding resistance and flexing from the bolt shaft giving a false reading.
There - told you what you already know👍
I have seen you tell about growers for working on ice when I saw that track it reminded me of the arctic and I just had a friend come back and told me a new company had never hared of growers but he said they should put them on and the first job the chekockoo company found out how a dozer can slips on ice, after the incident the welders put grower's on the track Just for your info. but it tickled both off us after they learned about this !!
I think for engine maintenance u could unbolt track pads to give u the room to work on the engine
I really wasn't sold on the wide tracks until I saw them side by side with the narrow ones. Yeah. They definitely look way cooler.
Newer track looks beefy, and finishing a side must feel great! 👍
Silver solder requires an acetylene torch for heat. Sliver solder melts around 1760 degrees. Personally I like to Silver solder. Makes for very strong joints.
I'm laughing - white lab coat!
Couple of things for silver soldering. Practice on something that is expendable until you are totally comfortable with the process. Surfaces must be completely clean and ask some pros about flux. Don't be afraid to put some serious heat on surfaces, as in cherry red. That was the temps I needed to get silver solder to work. Practice, practice, practice. Thanx for sharing, great video.😃
Most of the time dull red will work, at least for me. You certainly don't want to go hotter than red.
Thanks for bringing us along on this journey.. was curious about old x231 and whatever happened with her. Thanks in advance.
I saw that shot from outside and immediately thought you have the stagger about right for some high bank oval racing. :)
I completely understand that you are restoring and collecting and not for use. And I agree those 20 inch track's look awesome. I'm just wondering if, back in the day how much those larger 20 inch- tracks effected the overall power and performance of the D2's and if you can tell a difference if, any in 1113?. I think this is very interesting and can't wait for the results . Thank you for yet another awesome video...
Absolutely looks great with those wide tracks. Keep up the good work.
Love those wide pads.
The Wider tracks looks Great on it. Makes her look MEAN...LOL..Coupd go anywheres..LOL
No It does look good. Great Video..
I have to admit that I was unsure how those wide pads would look on there. After seeing them it's definitely an awesome look.