This was a great video. It was broken down so much even a beginner could comprehend what's being said and understand how to wire this properly. Did a real good job we appreciate you people like you make it better and easier for everybody else keep them coming buddy God bless
Hey man your video was the most informative one I have found by far hands down, the information was well delivered and precisely explained. Well done. I hope you'll do a car install video.
I know this video is 3 years old, but I bought one of these same switch panels and don’t really know that much about circuits and stuff, your video was the only video that I found that helped me wire the relay and everything together and work as it should. I will mention you in my next video to make sure your video gets recognized !! Thanks again for the information I needed!
Dude, YOUR video is the best I found for wiring these switches WITH the relay!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!! Like you, I can’t believe how many videos I found with people not using the relay. I’m definitely not an electrician but I definitely know you want that relay wired in. So again, thank you so much!!!!
No problem, I need to make an updated video on this. It could be explained in a lot more simple way with pictures as well. I need to gut my car and show a setup from scratch video
Instaceptor Funny you say “gut your car”. I am pretty much doing that with a mud truck right now. I am getting rid of all the original truck wiring i can due to the terrible condition (it’s a 1983 and it’s a mud truck!). I will get it but what a pain!! Thanks again for the help. Maybe I’ll shoot you a small video of my success whenever that might occur?
@@1320freek sounds like a fun project! Yeah I'd be interested in seeing some pictures in the meantime as well! Easiest way to connect would be Instagram? @instaceptor
Thank you SO MUCH...this is so clearly explained and really shows how the switches work. Your description makes it all MAKE SENSE (finally). I am about to try this switch in my 1989 Ford Ranger once I figure out what the corresponding wires are in the ignition switch. Wish me luck! -Dan
Thank you so much for this video!! You explain exactly how to set this switch panel up so that I can even understand! This is by far the best video on how to correctly wire it up. Btw, I’m installing this panel in a boat. Lol
Thanks for the video. i wired this panel the way you explained and I had a question about hooking the wires up that are into the ignition switch. I have a 1989 ford f150 (4.9) with a 8 wire ignition switch. Can I connect the start wire to the relay that hooks to the push start button, connect the two battery wires and hook up to 12 volt inlet on main switch and then connect all of the others to the remaining 3 toggles and just make sure toggles are tuned to the on position when I start the truck? wires are marked Start, Ignition, Ignition-Bypass, Accessory, Proof 1, Accessory, Battery and Battery.
No I would not do that the way you described. You need to view the wiring diagram or use a multi meter to determine which wires are "constant" and which wires are "switched on" and their destinations. So in your case both "battery" wires should be "constant 12v" likely. Both of those go onto the main switch for the panel to the off position like I showed. Then for those "ignition" wires it may take some reading the diagram, but those would be best to wire both into the on position of 1 of your 3 switches. The accessory wires should both tie into a separate switch, they're for like radio, cigarette lighter, and other accessories that are not necessary. The "start" wire likely leads to the starter, so it'd be on the output wire of your starter relay hooked up to the push button start like I showed. On most 4 pin relays this is always pin 87 (blue in my case). This may have been what you planned on doing, but I've tried to answer. Don't be afraid if there's multiple ignition wires, depending on the vehicle and what the diagram shows, just put them together since they're both for the ignition system..providing spark at the ignition coil, power to fuel pump, etc.
@@instaceptor7236 Thank you for the reply and I have a picture in a pdf format of what my plan was but I cant seem to figure out how to send you a this showing my layout. If there is a way to attach a pdf file please let me know how so you can review my diagram. Once again thank you for your advise - I appreciate it very much.
@@instaceptor7236 Hello - i figured i would send you a link to a pdf file showing you what my plan was with the wiring and see if you agree. the first page of file shows my wiring diagram for the truck and the following pages show how I was planning to hook them into the panel from your direction. Do you think this method will work? Thanks again. This is the link to the layout. documentcloud.adobe.com/link/review?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:589097f5-efb7-40ad-9920-f8cce693a632#pageNum=1
Hello me again - I just wanted to clarify the all toggles would be in the on position before the push button start was pushed to start truck. I apologize for all of the messages. Thanks again.
@@craigs5513 if you do Instagram you can DM me @instaceptor and we can chat there so it will go to my phone. You'll notice if the ignition toggle switch is off, the fuel pump won't come on, dash won't light up, etc. So pushing to start the car will just try and engage the starter and nothing will happen. It won't hurt the car, it just won't start. So you can flip your main red power switch, then yes go turn on your toggle you put your ignition wires to, you'll hear the fuel pump come on and everything just like you would if you put the key in and turned it one click forward before starting or ACC for accessories. Then once your ignition toggle is on, you can start the car. Make sense? If it's a manual your clutch would need to be pressed in even if you're in neutral just because of the clutch switch, so that all stays the same.
That whats i thought, kinda pointless having the relay wired that way. Surely the relay should be wired that it has a constant 12 through it remove the jumper and the remote wire just fires the relay!
Dan, you have 171 subscriber base on this one video! You should/ it I wish you could make more DIY videos. RUclips needs more people like you for people like us! 🤣🤦🏻♂️ great video
Do you actually need the relay though for the starter if your just taking the wires off your existing key starting system. The relay is already in the cars original wiring. You would just be adding an extra relay inline of the original one..or am I wrong
This is if you're wiring a project car from scratch or cutting out the OEM ignition wiring and wiring in a push start. The output from the relay would go straight to the starter
I am not seeing the point of you "using" the relay. You completely bypassed the function of the relay. The harness they provide is incorrect. The white wire needs to be removed and the wire coming from the push button needs to trigger it. What you have done is ensure that all of the amperage still goes through the switch...
Hi! Great tutorial about this switch assembly by far!! Great job! I cannot find your second video about car installation..another question I have is I'm using this panel to install on a minibike I'm building and wondering if I put the blue relay wire on the starter solenoid (positive side) Thanks!!
Video is brilliant. And really helps especially with the relay and is welp explained,.. but one quick question does the blue wire from the relay connect straight to the starter wire on the car ?
Excellent video was stressing watching other videos and this video was perfect and perfectly explained thank you for making this video that I came across with it
In my setup there wasn't any change needed to the neutral safety switch. I still left the other factory wiring intact. It was just my ignition switch column I tore out and went push to start, and support for auxiliary power like radiator fan, USB outlets etc.
I know Im here super late but what gauge wire should I use would I need 12 gauge like any normal wiring? And also thank you so much for going into detail in the video all the other people on youtube just show it installed basically.
In general for these switch panels 14 gauge is ok. The correct answer is the wire size is dependent upon the max amps the component/accessory would draw. You can use a wire size calculator online to plug in the values if you want to get specific. If you're replacing wiring in a vehicle that is already manufactured you could just follow the OEM spec unless modifying it.
Dude, I can't wrap my head around how you have two ground wires connected to the ground male connection on the on/off switch... Can you explain that and what the extra wire is connected to ?
Glad you were able to figure things out. "CG" intellectronics usually refers to common ground. If all of those ground connections need to lead to ground anyways, you don't need several wires for ground all leading to the chassis of the car. If there's a good ground, All the others can make a shorter path and just tie into that individual ground.
Technically yes, although uncommon. The off side of the main on/off switch would still be the 12v constant, then once activated, the "on" pin would be IGN/ACC like you said.
Question: I'm doing a DIY on putting a long cable to a pull behind field and brush mower so I can remote turn it on a cab. Is that possible? Then an on or off switch to engage the blades on the mower. Are both possible? Will I be needing heavy gauge wires?
It sounds like you would just be adding a remote switch that you'd be placing in the cab. Whether that be 1, 2 or more is totally up to you. As far answering if these could be switched that trigger a relay on board and could be a thin guage, or if you'd need to carry high current through them and need heavy guage is something id recommend asking an expert who is better familiar with the industry or field your needing help with. That's not something I'd be able to advise you on.
If it turned over before you made changes, i'd check on some ignition switches they have IG1 and IG2 for ignition 1&2 circuits. So often times spark/fuel will be on IG2. When you turn on ignition do you hear the fuel pump prime? it could be worth while to check fuses honestly if you've been working on wiring and may had accidentally blown a fuse.
If white(86 trigger) isn't currently plugged into anything like mine is in the video, you would connect it to pin 30. Pin 30 in the video is colored as Red, which is constant 12v that feeds the relay power.
White is your trigger, in this example when pin 86(white trigger wire), receives power, it activates the relay. So if you bridge 86to30, it will always have power active this the relay is always active. Does that answer the question?
Hey man, the way you've connected the relay is as if it wasn't there. All of the power to the blue wire goes through the button, which defeats the purpose.
Thanks for the very informative video.I love the explanation about the relay switch and why to use it. I can see it's been up awhile but hoping you or another viewer might answer a question or two.... What are you using for your test 12V Power supply? My guess is maybe a regular vehicle battery but..was wondering if a Car bat charger could be used or is there a specific bench Power supply I might look for? Thanks for any help from anyone on this.
Hey man, thanks for the awesome video. One quick q... the panel I bought has sort of a kill switch instead of a on/off toggle for +v. It does not have, however, a spade for negative or ground. Have any idea where the whole thing could be grounded? Manufacturer does not respond. Thanks in advance.
Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been on RUclips in ages. I'll likely pull the project car out in the summer and make a few more videos about this. To answer your question, your Killswitch likely just has 2 slots on it. One for input, other for output. Instead of 3 as shown on mine (3rd being ground). This switch only has a ground because there is a built in LED Light. If I simply don't connect ground then the LED won't light up. It is not required. Just helps to know when the circuit is active.
Also, on the Killswitch if it isn't clearly labeled, just have your incoming power on the "off position", then when the switch is flipped in the "on position" it will complete the circuit and provide power to the output side, and that'd be your power to feed the positive side of any other switches.
The way the relay harness is set up defeats the purpose of using the relay since the button is the relays source of power. The relay harness looks to be setup for negative switching.
Good video but your part bout the relay and it “ not letting that amount current through the switch” is false. The way that relay is setup with a jumper wire is still pulling the 12v through the switch. If the white jumper wire was actually ran to the battery, not the red wire, then no high current would be pulled through the switch, the relay would carry the full load of current.
This was a great video. It was broken down so much even a beginner could comprehend what's being said and understand how to wire this properly. Did a real good job we appreciate you people like you make it better and easier for everybody else keep them coming buddy God bless
Hey man your video was the most informative one I have found by far hands down, the information was well delivered and precisely explained. Well done. I hope you'll do a car install video.
I agree
I know this video is 3 years old, but I bought one of these same switch panels and don’t really know that much about circuits and stuff, your video was the only video that I found that helped me wire the relay and everything together and work as it should. I will mention you in my next video to make sure your video gets recognized !! Thanks again for the information I needed!
Dude, YOUR video is the best I found for wiring these switches WITH the relay!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!! Like you, I can’t believe how many videos I found with people not using the relay. I’m definitely not an electrician but I definitely know you want that relay wired in. So again, thank you so much!!!!
No problem, I need to make an updated video on this. It could be explained in a lot more simple way with pictures as well. I need to gut my car and show a setup from scratch video
Instaceptor Funny you say “gut your car”. I am pretty much doing that with a mud truck right now. I am getting rid of all the original truck wiring i can due to the terrible condition (it’s a 1983 and it’s a mud truck!). I will get it but what a pain!! Thanks again for the help. Maybe I’ll shoot you a small video of my success whenever that might occur?
@@1320freek sounds like a fun project! Yeah I'd be interested in seeing some pictures in the meantime as well! Easiest way to connect would be Instagram? @instaceptor
Thank you SO MUCH...this is so clearly explained and really shows how the switches work. Your description makes it all MAKE SENSE (finally). I am about to try this switch in my 1989 Ford Ranger once I figure out what the corresponding wires are in the ignition switch. Wish me luck! -Dan
Glad to hear, good luck Dan!
@@instaceptor7236 Thanks for responding and I'll let you know how things go. By the way...did you ever get that sucker into your car? -Dan
@@dansmith7617 the switch panel in the car for quite a while before I parted out the car and sold it
@@dansmith7617 so, how did you make out with installing the switch panel in your 89 Ranger?
@@wolfparty4234 Hi Wolf! It worked great and I'll make a short video of the final soon. Lots of life gettting in the way (and model airplanes). -Dan
Hello from reunion island this is thé best video i found ...great job tank you again
By far the best video explaining this installation.
Thank you so much for this video!!
You explain exactly how to set this switch panel up so that I can even understand! This is by far the best video on how to correctly wire it up.
Btw, I’m installing this panel in a boat.
Lol
I'm putting one in my 79 Chevy Luv, if I can get it done I'm going to throw it in my boat too
My apologies for not having time to show the installation in the car. It's something I'm hoping to do this summer.
Please do! This video was just what I needed.
Your vid is very helpful. Thank you. It would be awesome to see the install in the car.
Dude your video is great! By far the most informative one I’ve found, helped me out tremendously, thank you!
Great video! Installing the same switch panel in my 87 Rx7
This video helped so much you had great attention to detail
Thanks for the video. i wired this panel the way you explained and I had a question about hooking the wires up that are into the ignition switch. I have a 1989 ford f150 (4.9) with a 8 wire ignition switch. Can I connect the start wire to the relay that hooks to the push start button, connect the two battery wires and hook up to 12 volt inlet on main switch and then connect all of the others to the remaining 3 toggles and just make sure toggles are tuned to the on position when I start the truck? wires are marked Start, Ignition, Ignition-Bypass, Accessory, Proof 1, Accessory, Battery and Battery.
No I would not do that the way you described.
You need to view the wiring diagram or use a multi meter to determine which wires are "constant" and which wires are "switched on" and their destinations.
So in your case both "battery" wires should be "constant 12v" likely. Both of those go onto the main switch for the panel to the off position like I showed.
Then for those "ignition" wires it may take some reading the diagram, but those would be best to wire both into the on position of 1 of your 3 switches.
The accessory wires should both tie into a separate switch, they're for like radio, cigarette lighter, and other accessories that are not necessary.
The "start" wire likely leads to the starter, so it'd be on the output wire of your starter relay hooked up to the push button start like I showed. On most 4 pin relays this is always pin 87 (blue in my case).
This may have been what you planned on doing, but I've tried to answer. Don't be afraid if there's multiple ignition wires, depending on the vehicle and what the diagram shows, just put them together since they're both for the ignition system..providing spark at the ignition coil, power to fuel pump, etc.
@@instaceptor7236 Thank you for the reply and I have a picture in a pdf format of what my plan was but I cant seem to figure out how to send you a this showing my layout. If there is a way to attach a pdf file please let me know how so you can review my diagram. Once again thank you for your advise - I appreciate it very much.
@@instaceptor7236 Hello - i figured i would send you a link to a pdf file showing you what my plan was with the wiring and see if you agree. the first page of file shows my wiring diagram for the truck and the following pages show how I was planning to hook them into the panel from your direction. Do you think this method will work? Thanks again.
This is the link to the layout. documentcloud.adobe.com/link/review?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:589097f5-efb7-40ad-9920-f8cce693a632#pageNum=1
Hello me again - I just wanted to clarify the all toggles would be in the on position before the push button start was pushed to start truck. I apologize for all of the messages. Thanks again.
@@craigs5513 if you do Instagram you can DM me @instaceptor and we can chat there so it will go to my phone.
You'll notice if the ignition toggle switch is off, the fuel pump won't come on, dash won't light up, etc. So pushing to start the car will just try and engage the starter and nothing will happen. It won't hurt the car, it just won't start.
So you can flip your main red power switch, then yes go turn on your toggle you put your ignition wires to, you'll hear the fuel pump come on and everything just like you would if you put the key in and turned it one click forward before starting or ACC for accessories.
Then once your ignition toggle is on, you can start the car. Make sense?
If it's a manual your clutch would need to be pressed in even if you're in neutral just because of the clutch switch, so that all stays the same.
Great video, very well explained
But doesn't all the current for the starter solenoid still go through the momentary starter switch with the relay having the white jumper?
That whats i thought, kinda pointless having the relay wired that way. Surely the relay should be wired that it has a constant 12 through it remove the jumper and the remote wire just fires the relay!
Great vid, thoroughly explained and comprehensive, thanks so much i understand it now!
Dan, you have 171 subscriber base on this one video! You should/ it I wish you could make more DIY videos.
RUclips needs more people like you for people like us! 🤣🤦🏻♂️ great video
I need the car video man it's been 3 years 😂😂
Do you actually need the relay though for the starter if your just taking the wires off your existing key starting system. The relay is already in the cars original wiring. You would just be adding an extra relay inline of the original one..or am I wrong
This is if you're wiring a project car from scratch or cutting out the OEM ignition wiring and wiring in a push start. The output from the relay would go straight to the starter
best explanation on youtube.
What is the blue capped wire in the connector?
Very well explained for my simple and visual mind! Thanks alot
I am not seeing the point of you "using" the relay. You completely bypassed the function of the relay. The harness they provide is incorrect. The white wire needs to be removed and the wire coming from the push button needs to trigger it. What you have done is ensure that all of the amperage still goes through the switch...
Hi! Great tutorial about this switch assembly by far!! Great job! I cannot find your second video about car installation..another question I have is I'm using this panel to install on a minibike I'm building and wondering if I put the blue relay wire on the starter solenoid (positive side) Thanks!!
Video is brilliant. And really helps especially with the relay and is welp explained,.. but one quick question does the blue wire from the relay connect straight to the starter wire on the car ?
Yes on this relay blue is the output, so it'd be wired straight to the starter is fine.
Great explanation , should have more views !
Great video but I cant find where you are now putting it in the car. Is this the only one?
Excellent video, well presented and informative. Thank you.
Excellent video was stressing watching other videos and this video was perfect and perfectly explained thank you for making this video that I came across with it
Great video, best one so far!
Thankyou for doing this video. Been a great help 👍
In Which pin did the red relay wire go into?
How does the neutral safety switch figure into your wiring setup?
In my setup there wasn't any change needed to the neutral safety switch. I still left the other factory wiring intact.
It was just my ignition switch column I tore out and went push to start, and support for auxiliary power like radiator fan, USB outlets etc.
QUICK question, so the BLUE wire from the relay would go to my Starter ( small stud ) on my inner fender solenoid terminal??
Yes, it would provide power to the starter. Most starters have a spade connector like you've described.
I know Im here super late but what gauge wire should I use would I need 12 gauge like any normal wiring? And also thank you so much for going into detail in the video all the other people on youtube just show it installed basically.
In general for these switch panels 14 gauge is ok. The correct answer is the wire size is dependent upon the max amps the component/accessory would draw. You can use a wire size calculator online to plug in the values if you want to get specific. If you're replacing wiring in a vehicle that is already manufactured you could just follow the OEM spec unless modifying it.
Glad the detail helped. That was the exact reasoning I decided the video might help others online with the same questions I had to start with.
This was a very helpful video! Thank u
Dude, I can't wrap my head around how you have two ground wires connected to the ground male connection on the on/off switch...
Can you explain that and what the extra wire is connected to ?
Nevermind, I figured it out. Thanks for video ❤💯
Glad you were able to figure things out. "CG" intellectronics usually refers to common ground.
If all of those ground connections need to lead to ground anyways, you don't need several wires for ground all leading to the chassis of the car. If there's a good ground, All the others can make a shorter path and just tie into that individual ground.
Awesome...finally a good video! Thanks
Could I also put the accessories and ignition on the the switch with the 12v constant?
Technically yes, although uncommon.
The off side of the main on/off switch would still be the 12v constant, then once activated, the "on" pin would be IGN/ACC like you said.
@@instaceptor7236 ok thank you, I am setting it all up right now, just pulled up your video to draw my self an diagram
Question: I'm doing a DIY on putting a long cable to a pull behind field and brush mower so I can remote turn it on a cab. Is that possible? Then an on or off switch to engage the blades on the mower. Are both possible? Will I be needing heavy gauge wires?
It sounds like you would just be adding a remote switch that you'd be placing in the cab. Whether that be 1, 2 or more is totally up to you.
As far answering if these could be switched that trigger a relay on board and could be a thin guage, or if you'd need to carry high current through them and need heavy guage is something id recommend asking an expert who is better familiar with the industry or field your needing help with. That's not something I'd be able to advise you on.
What size wire do I use to wire it up?
Hey so another question my car will crank but not turn over and i have the fuel pump and accessorys hooked up any idea whats wrong?
If it turned over before you made changes, i'd check on some ignition switches they have IG1 and IG2 for ignition 1&2 circuits. So often times spark/fuel will be on IG2. When you turn on ignition do you hear the fuel pump prime? it could be worth while to check fuses honestly if you've been working on wiring and may had accidentally blown a fuse.
@@instaceptor7236 i got it all sorted out what it was was my alarm system triggered and shut off the car but a simple reset did the trick
My momentary switch is installed upside down from yours. Is it necessary to use x2 for ground? Can x1 be used instead?
The white wire on my set up isn’t plugged into anything on the relay, where does it feed back in?
If white(86 trigger) isn't currently plugged into anything like mine is in the video, you would connect it to pin 30. Pin 30 in the video is colored as Red, which is constant 12v that feeds the relay power.
White is your trigger, in this example when pin 86(white trigger wire), receives power, it activates the relay. So if you bridge 86to30, it will always have power active this the relay is always active. Does that answer the question?
Still waiting for part 2😔 great video tho!
Hey man, the way you've connected the relay is as if it wasn't there. All of the power to the blue wire goes through the button, which defeats the purpose.
Thanks for the very informative video.I love the explanation about the relay switch and why to use it. I can see it's been up awhile but hoping you or another viewer might answer a question or two.... What are you using for your test 12V Power supply? My guess is maybe a regular vehicle battery but..was wondering if a Car bat charger could be used or is there a specific bench Power supply I might look for? Thanks for any help from anyone on this.
Where part 2?
Hi! I have a question which wire do you use from relay output to ignition? 12V 40A? Please I need help :(
Relay output goes directly to starter. Rewatch the video carefully
I mean starter sorry my bad english hehe I just want to know wire caracteristics 😁
The best video!!!!🎉
Hey man, thanks for the awesome video. One quick q... the panel I bought has sort of a kill switch instead of a on/off toggle for +v. It does not have, however, a spade for negative or ground. Have any idea where the whole thing could be grounded? Manufacturer does not respond. Thanks in advance.
Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been on RUclips in ages. I'll likely pull the project car out in the summer and make a few more videos about this.
To answer your question, your Killswitch likely just has 2 slots on it. One for input, other for output. Instead of 3 as shown on mine (3rd being ground). This switch only has a ground because there is a built in LED Light. If I simply don't connect ground then the LED won't light up. It is not required. Just helps to know when the circuit is active.
Also, on the Killswitch if it isn't clearly labeled, just have your incoming power on the "off position", then when the switch is flipped in the "on position" it will complete the circuit and provide power to the output side, and that'd be your power to feed the positive side of any other switches.
This guy knows his stuff!
man thanks a lot !! very good and usefull video
The way the relay harness is set up defeats the purpose of using the relay since the button is the relays source of power. The relay harness looks to be setup for negative switching.
My old man (he's the electrician in the family) said the same thing
Good video but your part bout the relay and it “ not letting that amount current through the switch” is false. The way that relay is setup with a jumper wire is still pulling the 12v through the switch. If the white jumper wire was actually ran to the battery, not the red wire, then no high current would be pulled through the switch, the relay would carry the full load of current.
Thank you
So essentially the relay is useless?
Thanks for video
use relays on high powered acc
SORRY my COMMENT was WRONG it was intended for another RUclipsr that had it all wrong 😣 sorry