Takin the extra time, my grandpa always said do it right the first time or do it twice. Now you're in this far, drop the belly and see all the wiring hanging free in the metal pass through holes... I did that a month ago and cleaned all the wiring up and routed it all better with some non metallic conduit, it was a lot of work but worth knowing I won't wear through the jackets and ground something to the frame.
My 2018 Winnebago has the same electric tongue jack as yours. I did the same mods as you but to my surprise the holes were already drilled. I had to tap threads in it but it saved some work for me. Thank you for the video. I have not been able to open my tailgate for 6 years, and now that problem is solved thanks to you!
First time i've seen any of your videos, very well done, everything needed to *actually* do something yourself, extra tips, details that others often gloss over, thank you. It's a shame i don't already have the taps etc. already and that the holes need 'creating from scratch', it just a "hidden" cost added to the new tongue jack upgrade.
Those Lippert jacks are definitely a better quality compared to some of the generic electric tongue jacks available. The only thing I can add is invest in a cover to keep the head assembly out of the rain. Although that Lippert model is not as prone to taking on water, there are a lot that are. If anyone buys an electric jack that has the switches on the top or the manual override access hole is on the top ; cover the head of the jack. They love to take on water and fail after one year (just as the mfg warranty runs out). If I were to ever recommend an electric jack to someone, it's the one that Dan just installed. It's definitely a reliable jack.
You do things just like I do! Common sense is key. I'll have to admit though, I chuckled when you turned the drill press on and the bit wasn't centered. Lord knows I've never done that! (Yeah, right) I'm going to do this to my jack also. Great video!
I need to turn my existing one. It is an FIC 3500. I think I am lucky in that it has a round base. I can just remove the 3 bolts, rotate the jack and base 90 degrees, mark, and drill 3 new holes in the mounting base. It’s heavy gauge metal, but straightforward and simple.
I have the Lippert Smart Jack and hate that I can’t open my Tundra’s tailgate all the way. This is brilliant. Question: Instead of using the bottle jack couldn’t I just hook the camper to the tow vehicle and remove the jack to drill the new holes? Btw, I just found your videos on RUclips and you are “the man!” Great content…and entertaining!
@@dansproshop ….🤦🏼♂️ I just checked my “Smart Jack” and there isn’t any rubber caps on the sides to access any nuts to turn the head….guess I’m stuck with this “DUMB” Jack and a tailgate that won’t open all the way. 😡
They are pretty good. My only complaint is with the Ground Control 3.0 system. They can be a little glitchy sometimes. The jacks can loose track of their position and cause an error code in the controller. This can be easily cleared by manually extending the jacks about 1ft and then retracting all the jacks simultaneously. Its just a pain in the ass sometimes. We've had so many customers come in with a front jack error that was just a glitch in the sensor. Other than that, they are great systems. It definitely beats manually leveling your trailer. I deal with so many Lippert products and they are definitely a good manufacturer with great customer service help when needed.
@@OneRoomShed I got a new camper and CW put a new leveling system on the new camper. I had to switch to the old control panel. It faulted out and I had to use a ratchet to manually put the jacks down. The old control I could put them down electrically. My front jack still faults out on over amps.
@@scottdavis9442 lowering them manually can be aggravating sometimes (been there many times). If you keep getting an error code on the same jack, there is probably a problem with sensor inside the jack. This could lead to a failure with the jack not running at all eventually. I usually tell people if it happens once or twice it's probably a glitch. If the same error persists on the same jack you will need to have it replaced. I would look into that if I were you. If the system is less than one year old, you can probably get them to replace it under the mfg warranty. Edit : also if it is faultling and over drawing amperage, this maybe a defect in the motor itself.
Dan,I do not have a dedicated battery on my utility trailer. If I install an electric trailer jack,do I need to run a dedicated heavy gauge red wire up to my truck fuse box to run an electric tongue jack case the factory installed trailer plug might have a to small gage wire to run it? Any response would be appreciated coming ftom a western Pa. Guy here Go steelers😊
I would strongly recommend putting a battery on the trailer. These things take a lot of current. So being close to the source voltage helps immensely. Good luck!
Absolutely!! Not difficult I promise. Just hook up the positive from one battery to the positive of the second. Same thing for the negative. That doubles your ampacity and the load will be shared between them. Works great!
@@josephcirelli9642 Dan is right, and you do want parallel, series will make it 24v and fry everything. To add an extra battery to your existing one, and maintain 12v in the system, just run an extra wire from the positive of your existing battery to the new one, and of course same for the negative.
![World's FASTEST Electric Tongue Jack! [ UltraFab Phoenix 4000 ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DNhOJrtj4TY/mqdefault.jpg)
![World's FASTEST Electric Tongue Jack! [ UltraFab Phoenix 4000 ]](/img/tr.png)
You're so calm and cool with your kiddos making noise while your filming. Seem like an awesome dad. 👍
Thanks so much!! I love those kids. I try to have them around dad doing projects as much as possible.
Well as a Dad, you know you need to share your area with the kiddos.
Absolutely!
Takin the extra time, my grandpa always said do it right the first time or do it twice. Now you're in this far, drop the belly and see all the wiring hanging free in the metal pass through holes... I did that a month ago and cleaned all the wiring up and routed it all better with some non metallic conduit, it was a lot of work but worth knowing I won't wear through the jackets and ground something to the frame.
Absolutely. Thanks for the great comment!!
My 2018 Winnebago has the same electric tongue jack as yours. I did the same mods as you but to my surprise the holes were already drilled. I had to tap threads in it but it saved some work for me. Thank you for the video. I have not been able to open my tailgate for 6 years, and now that problem is solved thanks to you!
Happy to help!!
Dude, I'm not it to campers but you make some great content. You explain things very well. Keep up the great work!!
I appreciate that! Thank you!!!
Dan, thanks for sharing and for listing all the parts. Very helpful!
Most new trailers that come with a power jack installed, they face front. So this is go to know. Thanks for this great video.
Glad to help!
First time i've seen any of your videos, very well done, everything needed to *actually* do something yourself, extra tips, details that others often gloss over, thank you.
It's a shame i don't already have the taps etc. already and that the holes need 'creating from scratch', it just a "hidden" cost added to the new tongue jack upgrade.
Welcome aboard!
Everything’s made up, and instructions don’t matter! Yes sir, that’s my kinda shop right there! 👍
You got that right!
Great video, I had the same problem but decied to by an extended two hitch. Keep em coming.
Those Lippert jacks are definitely a better quality compared to some of the generic electric tongue jacks available. The only thing I can add is invest in a cover to keep the head assembly out of the rain. Although that Lippert model is not as prone to taking on water, there are a lot that are. If anyone buys an electric jack that has the switches on the top or the manual override access hole is on the top ; cover the head of the jack. They love to take on water and fail after one year (just as the mfg warranty runs out).
If I were to ever recommend an electric jack to someone, it's the one that Dan just installed. It's definitely a reliable jack.
Thanks so much for the great comment!!
@@dansproshop just sharing my experiences. Same as you do and that's appreciated too my friend.
Just use a five gallon (you will have it available for other things) and hang the safety chains on the handle when parked.
You do things just like I do! Common sense is key. I'll have to admit though, I chuckled when you turned the drill press on and the bit wasn't centered. Lord knows I've never done that! (Yeah, right) I'm going to do this to my jack also. Great video!
Thank you!!
Looks like I have a new project to do! Great video!
Thank you!!
Great information, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I need to turn my existing one. It is an FIC 3500. I think I am lucky in that it has a round base. I can just remove the 3 bolts, rotate the jack and base 90 degrees, mark, and drill 3 new holes in the mounting base. It’s heavy gauge metal, but straightforward and simple.
I have the Lippert Smart Jack and hate that I can’t open my Tundra’s tailgate all the way. This is brilliant. Question: Instead of using the bottle jack couldn’t I just hook the camper to the tow vehicle and remove the jack to drill the new holes? Btw, I just found your videos on RUclips and you are “the man!” Great content…and entertaining!
Yes, you could absolutely do that. I just wanted the room to work. And thank you!! I’m glad you enjoy the channel!!
@@dansproshop ….🤦🏼♂️ I just checked my “Smart Jack” and there isn’t any rubber caps on the sides to access any nuts to turn the head….guess I’m stuck with this “DUMB” Jack and a tailgate that won’t open all the way. 😡
Better’n factory 👍
Friends don’t let friends run stock!!!
I always drill straight thru to make the opposing hole. Anytime I rotate my other hole is off.
Look at an autoleveling Ground Control from LCI
They are pretty good. My only complaint is with the Ground Control 3.0 system. They can be a little glitchy sometimes. The jacks can loose track of their position and cause an error code in the controller. This can be easily cleared by manually extending the jacks about 1ft and then retracting all the jacks simultaneously. Its just a pain in the ass sometimes. We've had so many customers come in with a front jack error that was just a glitch in the sensor. Other than that, they are great systems. It definitely beats manually leveling your trailer. I deal with so many Lippert products and they are definitely a good manufacturer with great customer service help when needed.
@@OneRoomShed I got a new camper and CW put a new leveling system on the new camper. I had to switch to the old control panel. It faulted out and I had to use a ratchet to manually put the jacks down. The old control I could put them down electrically. My front jack still faults out on over amps.
@@scottdavis9442 lowering them manually can be aggravating sometimes (been there many times). If you keep getting an error code on the same jack, there is probably a problem with sensor inside the jack. This could lead to a failure with the jack not running at all eventually. I usually tell people if it happens once or twice it's probably a glitch. If the same error persists on the same jack you will need to have it replaced. I would look into that if I were you. If the system is less than one year old, you can probably get them to replace it under the mfg warranty.
Edit : also if it is faultling and over drawing amperage, this maybe a defect in the motor itself.
Dan,I do not have a dedicated battery on my utility trailer.
If I install an electric trailer jack,do I need to run a dedicated heavy gauge red wire up to my truck fuse box to run an electric tongue jack case the factory installed trailer plug might have a to small gage wire to run it?
Any response would be appreciated coming ftom a western Pa. Guy here
Go steelers😊
I think in my dodge ram big horn there's room a battery tray to install an auxiliary battery
I would strongly recommend putting a battery on the trailer. These things take a lot of current. So being close to the source voltage helps immensely. Good luck!
Thanks for your reply.
I do have an extra empty battery tray on my 2020 didge ram big horn. Thks buddy
Keep the vids coming to Pittsburgh Pa. 😊
Or put a battery on my utility trailer close to an electric jack when I install 1.
68 year old here and not getting any younger 😅😅😅
In a another video could you show how to set up 2 batteries to run in parallel. I want to convert my one battery into 2 batteries. Thanks Dan!
Absolutely!! Not difficult I promise. Just hook up the positive from one battery to the positive of the second. Same thing for the negative. That doubles your ampacity and the load will be shared between them. Works great!
I guess I meant in series. I don’t want convert my 12v into 24v. I’ll fry my camper’s components. Thanks
@@josephcirelli9642 Dan is right, and you do want parallel, series will make it 24v and fry everything. To add an extra battery to your existing one, and maintain 12v in the system, just run an extra wire from the positive of your existing battery to the new one, and of course same for the negative.
👍😎👍
A Marker Pen could of made the marks for the new bolts
Couldn't you just turn it from the bolts on the trailer frame ?? It's the same angle with less work,😂