Great idea with using Anderson connectors on both sides, so you can still use your alligator clips to your battery if needed. I will be doing the same, thank you
Mr Udawatta.. 97 FZJ80 Owner here.. thank you for your help and knowledge, this helps much. Keep up your breat work and videos.. Thank you sir.. Scott, Downtown Tahoma California..
@@4xTouring Sir I have some issues I have come across maybe if you have the time I have a couple questions s for you concerning 97 FZJ80 4.5L.. I have a 2.5" OME springs/heavy front w ARB Bull bar, 10k lb winch, lights front and rear ARB adjustable trackbars/panhards. My cruiser is my daily w 323k miles, I bought it in 2006 w 65k mileage. The lady whom owned it drove it from Phoenix to Las Angelas to buy bulk beauty supplies. Am the 2nd and only owner for the rest of my life. Secondly, I am in need of both tie rods.. I am looking to purchase soon, after doing homework and asking.. ..tie rods and ends I have looked at SLEE, Manafre and Toyota Genuine Dealer parts Everything comes as a kit.. I like and respect all parties however other opinions are great. My mechanic friend says Toyota.. on those tie rods and ends, rear top and lower control arms, linkage sway bar and all the bushings they really are the stock Originals, off the show room floor so to speak. MAYBE they were changed out at Toyota at the 120K mileage maintenence overhaul?. I did completely rebuild the front end all the way to include the actual housing of the front axle itself replaced.. Just ran out of $$Lootcakes$$ for tie rods... I know..bad scott.. The bushings are good does have some minor cracking except all on the sway bar, they are all smoked front and rear swaybars. Again Toyota or Manfre??. I also want to do those control arms linkages.. same question??. Just here very recently I believe my Timing Chain tensioner are not completely keeping tension. When I start the vehicle it ever so slightly and only when it is a cold start does this happen.. Can hear it like a couple small washers whirling around a can. The choke will kick off and by then the sound has faded away and my motor sounds beautiful. Sit a glass of water on the intake and just the very slightest water vibration in the glass if any. I try it in the AM again. It's not the Catalytic convertor, it's coming from the motor area.. So yes I have my work cut out for me but it's all doable. Clean all the parts and what not at my works shop my co worker mechanic friend is cool like that.. After work hours and not on the clock of course..The Timing chain and Tensioner water pump was done at 120k but that was 200k of across the USA driving.. Coast to coast multiple times. At any rate I am going to replace the water pump, Timing chain, Timing chain tensioner and buy the kit straight from Toyota Genuine. Anything else I should purchase for said issues and thi gs I may be missing to where if X is fixed you really need to do Y.. or possibly might as well si ce you are there kind of thing Any and all suggestions and pointers are very greatly appreciated . Thank you for your time, patience, understanding including the helpful knowledge and input. PS. Have you ever had to do a water crossing in an area that is known to have Crocodiles because I think I would just ..turn around and call it. Thanks again Mr. Udawatta have a great day, a beautiful weekend and safe travels Scott, Downtown Tahoma California.
@@4xTouring Mr. Udawatta, good morning sir. Really getting the day going now 6:30AM here, off to work.. Thank you much for your interest, time and assistance. I can be reached at Scott.eppers@Gmail.com. Again, Thank you for all. Have a great day, safe travels.
Over the years I have, by some unknown reasons, accumulated three cable splicers/strippers. I have never been able to use more than one at a time. I will drop one in your post box next week after I come back from my "Clean Up Australia" trip with the Land Cruiser Club of SA. When I did my first soldering course (in 1953) they insisted that you NEVER put a cold cable into hot solder, as you did in the demo. If you don't warm up the cable first you have a VERY GOOD chance of forming a dry joint which under vibration will fail.
Great video mate, just subscribed! I recently did some soldering with Anderson plugs for the first time, and really wish I stopped by this video sooner - would've made the job so much easier. Gonna be doing this compressor set up in my truck now too, thank you!
Nice Duncan. I am looking at this as well. I just keep adding weight through for my daily. But I still thin it is worth doing. I am heading out more often these days.
Weight is always the issue. Especially if it is a daily runner. Since you are travelling more often then certain basic accessories are best left installed.
I have been thinking of doing this to my 80 for over 10 years. Maybe installing the portable compressor behind the 3rd row seat side panels, under the passenger seat or under the bonnet (with some heat shield) and running a air line to the bullbar and rear bar with air line connection and running the on/off switch on the compressor to my switch panel. Great vid liked and subbed but i would put heat shrink on connections and maybe a inline fuse on the power connection even if you have a fused switch panel as sometimes these portable compressors do pull more power than advertised.
@@4xTouring its a great vid mate simple and easy to follow instructions without stupid music, also its a nice looking 80 series but I still don't trust Anderson plugs for some applications even the proper Anderson plugs are only rated to 120a constant power and 50a hot swap. Some things like compressors and inverters I prefer to hard wire to the battery with thicker cables and a shorter cable run as the heat up when using them.
Nice vid mate. Just reading the comments. There’s always an expert on something lol and I guess it’s about bouncing ideas off each other. At the end of the day if the bloody thing works put it in where ever and however you want. As long as it runs safely and you get out there, that’s all that matters 👍🏾
Hi Pete. Since the compressor pulls around 45amps ideally I should have pulled power from the cranking battery. The electrics at the back end of the fourbie is powered by the deep cycle aux battery. So instead of running another power line (from the cranking battery to the back) I am powering the compressor from the deep cycle. To avoid a massive draw down on the battery I keep the motor running whilst airing up. By doing this the DCDC Charger will compensate for the draw keeping the battery running out of juice. Hope that makes sense.
I thought about doing this for my maxitrac compressor which draws 90 amps but adding a solenoid or relay to protect the system. Do you think the fuse is enough protection? I'm fairly new to this type of stuff. Thanks
If it is 90 amps a relay will be recommended. Also the power supply cable and connectors should also be capable of handling 90 amps. Best is to get a professional to give you some expert advice. If you are in Australia I have found the staff at Jay Car to be very helpful in this.
I think the 4way would make it a lot neater and easier too. I had some Y-connectors lying around so used them instead. Someday I am hoping to completely empty out the back and redo some of the electrics. I keep saying "some day" :D
So I assume you have all of that 12v coming from the cranking battery? How will you ensure you don't have the inverter running at the same time as the fridge (and everything else) when you turn on your compressor? The whole lot seems to be fed from a single 50A Anderson plug, which will not handle all of your equipment if all running.
Hi Stuart. The feed comes from my aux battery. Not the cranking battery. My electrical system is quite simple. The inverter is not very powerful. I use it mainly for charging camera batteries. The rest of the accessories at the back are my fridges and led lights. At best my power draw (inverter not included) is less than 8 amps. So can easily run the compressor whilst the fridges are running without exceeding 50a. The use of the inverter is quite minimal. I might change everything if one I decided to run a coffee machine. Which is quite unlikely as we like to make coffee the old fashioned way, grind the beans, boil water in the billy and then pour the coffee :D
Hey Ricky. In my compressor the connections were two battery clamps. So before cutting I marked the positive cable with a red permanent marker. Matched this to the positive in the Anderson plug.
I recently tried this with a direct connection to my battery using the Anderson quick disconnect- first test and the connectors melted! I may have used the wrong type solder and had a bad connection causing extra resistance. I’m here because I’m going for a second attempt lol
@@4xTouring well I cut out the inline fuse on the previous attempt since it was a 40a and the compressor has a built in 45a-it kept popping (ironman 4x4 heavy duty compressor) I'm going to re try this with 50a inline fuse like for stereos. I may have used the wrong type solder too. Its hard to find a pre made 10awg with a built in 50a and round terminals / anderson connector LOL
Duncan, Why do you not put it in the wing section of the draws and hard wire it there with an air connection on the back of the wings that face the tailgate and then you just plug the hose into that and possibly put a switch near the air connection to turn the compressor on? that is what I am aiming to do with my xtm one. I was taught at tech school that you always heat the job and then apply the solder not like you do as you are burning the flux off before it gets to the job or the wire to help it bond to the item you are soldering it to. Your soldering needs heat shrink over the wire connectors and wire before you insert it into the main anderson plug. A suggestion at 16:50 where you cable tie the connectors together why not screw each of the master connectors to the black box tube running across your vehicle and then you have a sturdy connection point and then only need to connect or disconnect each end of the anderson plug when needed?
Hi Tim. Thank you for that. What you say makes perfect sense about where to place the compressor. It is very practical. The problem I have is the previous owner had installed the rear electrics switches and fuses where you are suggesting. Relocating would have made reaching the switches a lot more difficult. So I figured reaching for the hose from the window worked for me. As for heating up the cable I should have talked of a hot solder. This is my fault for not mentioning. My apologies for that. Thanks for pointing it out. I will do a quick follow up video on this.
@@4xTouring Hi Duncan, re the relocating and the switches. I know from the size of my area there, that there is plenty of room for both the compressor and switches/fuses unless they are hugeee..... I do not have sliding windows as you have on yours, so for me putting things like this under the draw wings seems to be a good idea and it's not as if I or you probably will be airing down or up that often....... but it's your rig and it was just a suggestion. Thanks for the feedback.
Crimping the Anderson connectors is far superior then soldering. It’s also not a good idea to run this without a circuit breaker or at least a fuse. A 12v compressor can run a lot of current!
Thanks Jamie. I thought soldering would do a lot more sealing of the cable than crimping. Learnt something new. I did not mention in the video (I should have) I have a circuit breaker at the back of the 4x4 for each appliance.
@John you'll have a hole in your firewall where your main loom will go through, you can use that, lots of vehicles have extra holes with gromits and bungs too. If you own a 4x4 that's body on frame you'll probably have gromits going up into the cab along the chassis rails too
For me it works out a lot easier. I don't have to take it out of the bag and hook it to the power supply. All i do is pull the hose out and flick the switch.
The main purpose of the video was to show me permanently wiring my portable compressor. A good portion of my viewers are very new to the lifestyle. So a very basic video was the intent.
Great idea with using Anderson connectors on both sides, so you can still use your alligator clips to your battery if needed. I will be doing the same, thank you
Mr Udawatta.. 97 FZJ80 Owner here.. thank you for your help and knowledge, this helps much. Keep up your breat work and videos.. Thank you sir.. Scott, Downtown Tahoma California..
Thanks Scott. Appreciate the support.
@@4xTouring Sir I have some issues I have come across maybe if you have the time I have a couple questions s for you concerning 97 FZJ80 4.5L..
I have a 2.5" OME springs/heavy front w ARB Bull bar, 10k lb winch, lights front and rear ARB adjustable trackbars/panhards. My cruiser is my daily w 323k miles, I bought it in 2006 w 65k mileage. The lady whom owned it drove it from Phoenix to Las Angelas to buy bulk beauty supplies. Am the 2nd and only owner for the rest of my life.
Secondly, I am in need of both tie rods.. I am looking to purchase soon, after doing homework and asking.. ..tie rods and ends I have looked at SLEE, Manafre and Toyota Genuine Dealer parts Everything comes as a kit.. I like and respect all parties however other opinions are great.
My mechanic friend says Toyota.. on those tie rods and ends, rear top and lower control arms, linkage sway bar and all the bushings they really are the stock Originals, off the show room floor so to speak. MAYBE they were changed out at Toyota at the 120K mileage maintenence overhaul?. I did completely rebuild the front end all the way to include the actual housing of the front axle itself replaced.. Just ran out of $$Lootcakes$$ for tie rods... I know..bad scott..
The bushings are good does have some minor cracking except all on the sway bar, they are all smoked front and rear swaybars. Again Toyota or Manfre??. I also want to do those control arms linkages.. same question??.
Just here very recently I believe my Timing Chain tensioner are not completely keeping tension. When I start the vehicle it ever so slightly and only when it is a cold start does this happen.. Can hear it like a couple small washers whirling around a can. The choke will kick off and by then the sound has faded away and my motor sounds beautiful. Sit a glass of water on the intake and just the very slightest water vibration in the glass if any. I try it in the AM again. It's not the Catalytic convertor, it's coming from the motor area..
So yes I have my work cut out for me but it's all doable. Clean all the parts and what not at my works shop my co worker mechanic friend is cool like that.. After work hours and not on the clock of course..The Timing chain and Tensioner water pump was done at 120k but that was 200k of across the USA driving.. Coast to coast multiple times.
At any rate I am going to replace the water pump, Timing chain, Timing chain tensioner and buy the kit straight from Toyota Genuine. Anything else I should purchase for said issues and thi gs I may be missing to where if X is fixed you really need to do Y.. or possibly might as well si ce you are there kind of thing
Any and all suggestions and pointers are very greatly appreciated . Thank you for your time, patience, understanding including the helpful knowledge and input.
PS. Have you ever had to do a water crossing in an area that is known to have Crocodiles because I think I would just ..turn around and call it.
Thanks again Mr. Udawatta have a great day, a beautiful weekend and safe travels
Scott, Downtown Tahoma California.
@@scotteppers Hi Scott. Please can you send me your email address?
@@4xTouring Mr. Udawatta, good morning sir. Really getting the day going now 6:30AM here, off to work..
Thank you much for your interest, time and assistance. I can be reached at Scott.eppers@Gmail.com. Again, Thank you for all. Have a great day, safe travels.
Over the years I have, by some unknown reasons, accumulated three cable splicers/strippers. I have never been able to use more than one at a time. I will drop one in your post box next week after I come back from my "Clean Up Australia" trip with the Land Cruiser Club of SA.
When I did my first soldering course (in 1953) they insisted that you NEVER put a cold cable into hot solder, as you did in the demo. If you don't warm up the cable first you have a VERY GOOD chance of forming a dry joint which under vibration will fail.
Awesome man thank you for sharing going to do that asap.
I’ve done a similar set up, I just plug it into the caravan Anderson so I can air up both car and van. Nice job.
Exactly the answer I was after, thanks
Thank you for sharing this great idea!
Glad it was helpful.
Thanks Duncan
Thanks Juan.
Great idea!
Thanks Chris!
Thank you for the informative video...
Glad to be of help. Appreciate the support.
Fantastic production/video quality!
Thanks so much.
Great video mate, just subscribed!
I recently did some soldering with Anderson plugs for the first time, and really wish I stopped by this video sooner - would've made the job so much easier. Gonna be doing this compressor set up in my truck now too, thank you!
Thanks for the sub!
Glad the video was helpful.
Great tutorial..Thanks
Thanks mate.
Nice Duncan. I am looking at this as well. I just keep adding weight through for my daily. But I still thin it is worth doing. I am heading out more often these days.
Weight is always the issue. Especially if it is a daily runner. Since you are travelling more often then certain basic accessories are best left installed.
Nicely done. Anyone who has a compressor like this should never use the 12 volt “cigarette “ outlet. You will blow your fuse or worse melt the wiring.
Yes absolutely.
I have been thinking of doing this to my 80 for over 10 years. Maybe installing the portable compressor behind the 3rd row seat side panels, under the passenger seat or under the bonnet (with some heat shield) and running a air line to the bullbar and rear bar with air line connection and running the on/off switch on the compressor to my switch panel. Great vid liked and subbed but i would put heat shrink on connections and maybe a inline fuse on the power connection even if you have a fused switch panel as sometimes these portable compressors do pull more power than advertised.
I have an inline fuse too. Something I did not mention in the video, I keep the engine running whilst inflating. This helps the battery along.
@@4xTouring its a great vid mate simple and easy to follow instructions without stupid music, also its a nice looking 80 series but I still don't trust Anderson plugs for some applications even the proper Anderson plugs are only rated to 120a constant power and 50a hot swap. Some things like compressors and inverters I prefer to hard wire to the battery with thicker cables and a shorter cable run as the heat up when using them.
Nice vid mate. Just reading the comments. There’s always an expert on something lol and I guess it’s about bouncing ideas off each other. At the end of the day if the bloody thing works put it in where ever and however you want. As long as it runs safely and you get out there, that’s all that matters 👍🏾
Absolutely :) I try to keep everything simple, effective use and cost effective. I guess each person is different.
Very informative. You’ve got a new subscriber now, I was impressed that you didn’t start the video with “Hey guys” like almost every other RUclipsr!
Thank you for the support and the kind words :)
Diceros👍🏾
thanks for sharing this, looking at doing similar. question i have is how have you found it running from house battery?
Hi mate. House battery? Are you referring to the Aux battery?
Wait.. what, not one 'Ja'" word? lol Keep them coming mate!
:D
Great job there Duncan. What battery are you using to power this? Cheers
Hi Pete. Since the compressor pulls around 45amps ideally I should have pulled power from the cranking battery. The electrics at the back end of the fourbie is powered by the deep cycle aux battery. So instead of running another power line (from the cranking battery to the back) I am powering the compressor from the deep cycle. To avoid a massive draw down on the battery I keep the motor running whilst airing up. By doing this the DCDC Charger will compensate for the draw keeping the battery running out of juice. Hope that makes sense.
I thought about doing this for my maxitrac compressor which draws 90 amps but adding a solenoid or relay to protect the system. Do you think the fuse is enough protection? I'm fairly new to this type of stuff. Thanks
If it is 90 amps a relay will be recommended. Also the power supply cable and connectors should also be capable of handling 90 amps. Best is to get a professional to give you some expert advice. If you are in Australia I have found the staff at Jay Car to be very helpful in this.
Hi Duncan have you every thoughts about using a 4way Anderson plug adapter to get rid of some excess power leads hi I am Adrian
I think the 4way would make it a lot neater and easier too. I had some Y-connectors lying around so used them instead. Someday I am hoping to completely empty out the back and redo some of the electrics. I keep saying "some day" :D
So I assume you have all of that 12v coming from the cranking battery? How will you ensure you don't have the inverter running at the same time as the fridge (and everything else) when you turn on your compressor? The whole lot seems to be fed from a single 50A Anderson plug, which will not handle all of your equipment if all running.
Hi Stuart. The feed comes from my aux battery. Not the cranking battery. My electrical system is quite simple. The inverter is not very powerful. I use it mainly for charging camera batteries. The rest of the accessories at the back are my fridges and led lights. At best my power draw (inverter not included) is less than 8 amps. So can easily run the compressor whilst the fridges are running without exceeding 50a. The use of the inverter is quite minimal. I might change everything if one I decided to run a coffee machine. Which is quite unlikely as we like to make coffee the old fashioned way, grind the beans, boil water in the billy and then pour the coffee :D
Hey mate, when you cut the wires on your air compressor hiw did yiu know the difference between the positive wire and negative wire.
Thanks
Hey Ricky. In my compressor the connections were two battery clamps. So before cutting I marked the positive cable with a red permanent marker. Matched this to the positive in the Anderson plug.
I recently tried this with a direct connection to my battery using the Anderson quick disconnect- first test and the connectors melted! I may have used the wrong type solder and had a bad connection causing extra resistance. I’m here because I’m going for a second attempt lol
How are the cables leading up to the connection? Can they handle the current required by the compressor?
@@4xTouring well I cut out the inline fuse on the previous attempt since it was a 40a and the compressor has a built in 45a-it kept popping (ironman 4x4 heavy duty compressor) I'm going to re try this with 50a inline fuse like for stereos. I may have used the wrong type solder too. Its hard to find a pre made 10awg with a built in 50a and round terminals / anderson connector LOL
Duncan, Why do you not put it in the wing section of the draws and hard wire it there with an air connection on the back of the wings that face the tailgate and then you just plug the hose into that and possibly put a switch near the air connection to turn the compressor on? that is what I am aiming to do with my xtm one. I was taught at tech school that you always heat the job and then apply the solder not like you do as you are burning the flux off before it gets to the job or the wire to help it bond to the item you are soldering it to. Your soldering needs heat shrink over the wire connectors and wire before you insert it into the main anderson plug. A suggestion at 16:50 where you cable tie the connectors together why not screw each of the master connectors to the black box tube running across your vehicle and then you have a sturdy connection point and then only need to connect or disconnect each end of the anderson plug when needed?
Hi Tim. Thank you for that. What you say makes perfect sense about where to place the compressor. It is very practical. The problem I have is the previous owner had installed the rear electrics switches and fuses where you are suggesting. Relocating would have made reaching the switches a lot more difficult. So I figured reaching for the hose from the window worked for me. As for heating up the cable I should have talked of a hot solder. This is my fault for not mentioning. My apologies for that. Thanks for pointing it out. I will do a quick follow up video on this.
@@4xTouring Hi Duncan, re the relocating and the switches. I know from the size of my area there, that there is plenty of room for both the compressor and switches/fuses unless they are hugeee..... I do not have sliding windows as you have on yours, so for me putting things like this under the draw wings seems to be a good idea and it's not as if I or you probably will be airing down or up that often....... but it's your rig and it was just a suggestion. Thanks for the feedback.
what size fuse did you run?
Hi Will. I used a 50amp fuse. My compressor pulls 45amps.
thanks duncan, such a great video and idea. in the process of doing this now. definitely watching some more of your channel
Crimping the Anderson connectors is far superior then soldering. It’s also not a good idea to run this without a circuit breaker or at least a fuse. A 12v compressor can run a lot of current!
Thanks Jamie. I thought soldering would do a lot more sealing of the cable than crimping. Learnt something new. I did not mention in the video (I should have) I have a circuit breaker at the back of the 4x4 for each appliance.
The tricky part is running the wire from the battery in the engine compartment to the cargo space. Any ideas on this?
@John you'll have a hole in your firewall where your main loom will go through, you can use that, lots of vehicles have extra holes with gromits and bungs too. If you own a 4x4 that's body on frame you'll probably have gromits going up into the cab along the chassis rails too
Why not keep it in its bag and yours it when you need it this makes no sense
For me it works out a lot easier. I don't have to take it out of the bag and hook it to the power supply. All i do is pull the hose out and flick the switch.
All I watched here was you putting an Anderson plug on a cable and about six Ads. This video was about as helpfull as this comment.
The main purpose of the video was to show me permanently wiring my portable compressor. A good portion of my viewers are very new to the lifestyle. So a very basic video was the intent.
Don't know what you expected mate, title says exactly what's in it