I think its awesome your teaching him how to do this most people wouldn't worry about takin time out of their day to teach a youngins that wasn't their own when they didnt something out of it for him self that's very awesome
Matt, KUDOS to you for mentoring the next generation of hotrodders. We need more guys like you helping out the our young guns. Andrew, GREAT work , keep it up.
Great job Matt & Andrew ! A tip : i use is an old toe stick used for checking the toe in front and rear of the front tires. It cuts down on the multiple measuring top & bottom of frame rails.Set your increments based on frame data, you can check top and bottom of the frame rails for square. Back in the frame straightening days I would set my measurements on the toe stick and check known holes or common manufacturing holes, as Matt said, in the frame. It just speeds up things and no room for measuring errors. If it fits the hole it can't be wrong ! Cars that is !
Excellent Work, Andrew! SO Glad to see the next generation helping to keep this alive! Also, Matt, has Andrew found out how much 'Fun' it is to weld with Short pants on yet? I have Been there and done that one! 😉😉😉
Hey Matt and Andrew you guys work well together. Just wanted to let you know there is a 26, 27 Model T Coupe on Ebay for $2500 or best offer. Keep the fire lite under him Matt......
Oh cool I'll take a look! Part of the problem sometimes is the transportation costs for a body/project car almost doubles the cost and makes it not as good of a deal. I'll look it up though and take a look! Thanks! -Matt/ITG
Hey bro quick question. My model a frame center cross member doesn’t have the holes one each end on the top. All the ones I’ve seen have them. Would you happen to know why? I’m sure it’s a model a frame
I have a 1930 Ford Model A 4 door sedan . it,s never gonna see the road, its that bad. what i would like to know is can i lower it front and rear by taking some springs out of the packs.? i am not wanting to go stupid low, just a little to make it look a little better. it,s just going to sit on my carport. i am going to run 15 inch steel wheels. thanks for any help with this.
Great episode Matt/Mike . Can you move the front cross member forward at all , for that extra room.For a bigger engine, to get clearance.Would it screw with the steering ?or anything else. Thanks Bryan
Hi Bryan, yes we could do that, but it would also stretch the wheel base out. I like to try and keep the wheel base close to original to keep proportions correct. We'll make it work with some firewall mods. Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
The original one was rotted out in the middle where the spring sits, which is fairly common for model a frames that sit exposed to the weather. -Mike/ITG
Hi Jeanette, I genrally prefer to TIG weld most things, but sometimes MIG is easier or quicker and I will use it. I prefer to only TIG weld body panels. I use 18 gauge mostly for old cars when doing patch panels or body work. Hope that helps! -Matt/ITG
Matt. Why diding you. Put Rivet's. Back in the hole. Some people stay weld,,,, some say rivets,,, Nice job Next. Time you do a cross. Bracing. Weld them on the bottom. Next time. That way the bracing will. Not. Every be in your way for measurement Just some thing I pick up on. That's all. Keep up the good video's Thanks JUNKMANDO
Hey Matt, I know you said coupe body, but here is a 28-29 sedan body from my local cragslist, seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/d/ford-2-door-sedan/6663499143.html. I will keep my eye out though for the coupe. This is a ways to come though also
I think its awesome your teaching him how to do this most people wouldn't worry about takin time out of their day to teach a youngins that wasn't their own when they didnt something out of it for him self that's very awesome
Nice welds! Matt, so refreshing to see you mentor this young man! Keep up the good work Andrew you have skills!
Thank you Eric I'm just trying to help keep this hobby alive! Thanks for watching. -Matt/ITG
Matt, KUDOS to you for mentoring the next generation of hotrodders. We need more guys like you helping out the our young guns. Andrew, GREAT work , keep it up.
Thanks for watching!1 -Mike/ITG
Great job Matt & Andrew ! A tip : i use is an old toe stick used for checking the toe in front and rear of the front tires. It cuts down on the multiple measuring top & bottom of frame rails.Set your increments based on frame data, you can check top and bottom of the frame rails for square. Back in the frame straightening days I would set my measurements on the toe stick and check known holes or common manufacturing holes, as Matt said, in the frame. It just speeds up things and no room for measuring errors. If it fits the hole it can't be wrong ! Cars that is !
Great job young man, you have a great teacher!!
Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
Excellent Work, Andrew!
SO Glad to see the next generation helping to keep this alive!
Also, Matt, has Andrew found out how much 'Fun' it is to weld with Short pants on yet?
I have Been there and done that one!
😉😉😉
Welding in shorts and a t-shirt has left we burnt many times! Its a learning experience!! -Mike/ITG
We use to make reverse wheels out of Wide Buick Rims and weld
Ford centres in them.
Looking good Andrew. Are you going to box the chassis if running a yblock
I believe that is in the plans. -Mike/ITG
Great work, Keep it coming.
Thanks for watching? -Mike/ITG
Hey Matt and Andrew you guys work well together. Just wanted to let you know there is a 26, 27 Model T Coupe on Ebay for $2500 or best offer. Keep the fire lite under him Matt......
Oh cool I'll take a look! Part of the problem sometimes is the transportation costs for a body/project car almost doubles the cost and makes it not as good of a deal. I'll look it up though and take a look! Thanks! -Matt/ITG
Hey bro quick question. My model a frame center cross member doesn’t have the holes one each end on the top. All the ones I’ve seen have them. Would you happen to know why? I’m sure it’s a model a frame
You set up the chassis flat and then checked for 6deg of castor if you then have chassis rake on the final build will this loose all you castor?
I have a 1930 Ford Model A 4 door sedan . it,s never gonna see the road, its that bad. what i would like to know is can i lower it front and rear by taking some springs out of the packs.? i am not wanting to go stupid low, just a little to make it look a little better. it,s just going to sit on my carport. i am going to run 15 inch steel wheels. thanks for any help with this.
Great episode Matt/Mike . Can you move the front cross member forward at all , for that extra room.For a bigger engine, to get clearance.Would it screw with the steering ?or anything else. Thanks Bryan
Hi Bryan, yes we could do that, but it would also stretch the wheel base out. I like to try and keep the wheel base close to original to keep proportions correct. We'll make it work with some firewall mods. Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
ok..5 am when i watched your video.. ? removed model A cross member, replaced with model A cross member.. ? Original one was bad? Did i miss something
The original one was rotted out in the middle where the spring sits, which is fairly common for model a frames that sit exposed to the weather. -Mike/ITG
I want an Andrew for my shop.
Lots of young guys looking for education, just gotta find one that sticks with it like Andrew!
Has anyone heard from Andrew? If so does he still have the car and has he made any progress on it?
Haven’t heard a peep. We helped sell the project for him. The new owner has been slowly working on getting the car together.
@@IronTrapGarage that sucks. I was hoping he would see it through.
Thanks for the response.
how do you square off model a frame, with out a frame rail ??
what makes you decide weather to mig or tig ? is all the body panels 18 ga. ?
Hi Jeanette, I genrally prefer to TIG weld most things, but sometimes MIG is easier or quicker and I will use it. I prefer to only TIG weld body panels. I use 18 gauge mostly for old cars when doing patch panels or body work. Hope that helps! -Matt/ITG
Mig Is much faster and is less susceptible to contamination on the parent metals (EG you can MIG through some rust)
A guy that lives behind my friend in Carson Washington got a barn full of T parts but he only got a couple of body's
Matt. Why diding you. Put Rivet's. Back in the hole. Some people stay weld,,,, some say rivets,,, Nice job
Next. Time you do a cross. Bracing. Weld them on the bottom. Next time. That way the bracing will. Not. Every be in your way for measurement Just some thing I pick up on. That's all. Keep up the good video's
Thanks JUNKMANDO
Hey Matt, I know you said coupe body, but here is a 28-29 sedan body from my local cragslist, seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/d/ford-2-door-sedan/6663499143.html. I will keep my eye out though for the coupe. This is a ways to come though also