As soon as I saw that bag 20 minute set I knew this video was going to be entertaining. Then trying add more water while using that big mixing stick...........classic lol.
Hi, just a quick tip. try not to mix your mud in your sink... you just built your drainage system, you don't want to block it up with hardened mud already.. it will be costly to fix :-/
I hate to come off as an armchair expert. From what I see, the taped joints are way too narrow and not feathered out far enough. They're barely wider than the tape. The butt joints especially should be feathered out at least 12"-18" wide using three passes with a wide knife and thin mud. The mud is much too thick. Especially by the tub surround.
Why texture ? It goes out of date quickly and is a pain if you want to change it later ... i always think that when some one textures an area it is to cover faults
Texture is so out of date and really hard to change out later. It's very hard to keep clean and hard to paint. Oh well it is your house and you are the ones who have live with it. Good luck with it. Keep the videos coming.
This was incredibly entertaining, did you not read the directions on the fast set? It doesn't DRY, its a chemical set. The panic in the last 3 minutes is fantastic.
Why are so few bathrooms in the us fully tiled? Here in Norway that is a norm. Both floor and ALL the walls are tilled. Makes for a good water barrier :)
I have been in the drywall biz for 40 years and may have a few tips. Do not use any of the fast sets.You will need a 5 gal bucket clean a box of ap mud,flexible 12 in DW knife. put the entire box of ap in the bucket less the box mix to a smooth consistency that will flow thru your gun high pressure for spatter tex lower pressure for knock down, spray the hole room flood the corners first lid and walls in a circular pattern when going for knock down draw knife in a elongated pattern keeping slight pressure on the inside with knife hope this helps you good luck
Damp sponge works great instead of sanding. Five gallon premix mud is cost effective. Use two and a half gallons of mud and thin down to pancake batter for texture gun to spray that room.
The powdered plaster goes hard as a chemical reaction with water. You cannot make it soft again by adding more water. Get the longer setting kind and only mix what you can apply in the working time.
I was surprised by the 20-minute mud, and sadly it bit you. Sorry that didn't work out. Try 90-minute mud, smaller batches. 90 minutes isn't long to wait for it to kick off compared to premixed mud, which is 24 hours. I so wish the videos were in real time, though I know they take a ton of work to produce and put up for us--thank you for all your hard work! If the videos were real-time-ish, your followers would have a wealth of knowledge to share and could give back to you for all you give to us viewers, and I'd bet you'd get things in the mail that would make work easier. I'm totally on your side! Thanks for letting me follow along with your dream. I'm living vicariously through you two, and I'm so grateful.
So i dont know if any one has said it yet if they have ignore mine. Drywall mud is usually done in 3 to 4 steps. Use fast set to fill all cracks,gaps,corner beads and tap setting. Then all purpose/topping to fillover the main fill (mix premixed mud to smooth out for easier use). Topping mix with water to thin mud to fill all bubbles and scrapes. And then texture.useing the fast set as the base will eliminatemost of the shrinking and cracking of the mud
Fast setting mud sounds like a good idea but unless you are used to it and can do it quickly you are better off using regular mud. Also once you mix it it starts to cure and if you add it to or use the same container without cleaning it it speeds up curing
We used to call the not so feathered edges of the mud coat, "nickel edges"! So the rookies would have to sand what they applied to teach them how important to avoid "nickel edges"!. They were started spotting nails, and in closets to learn to finish, which was mostly angles and spotting nails. You were right to not use mud that had any dried parts. We called them drags. The golden rule of drywall is to have a 5gal. bucket ready at all times to clean the mud tray and tools! Keep them clean! If they get dry, it is a lot of work to get them clean! Jess you are doing these videos to show the progress of your house, they are also a teaching those who have never done drywall hanging and finishing. You are basically doing it right. The new modern mesh tape that sticks itself on is good for high stress areas. I like the paper tape. You have brought back a lot of memories about my youth working with my Dad. You are smart, you will figure it out. Thanxz
Seeing as you will be doing ALOT more drywalling in the years to come a real drywall sander that you can attach your vacuum to is a big recommendation. Festtool has a really good one but kinda on the expensive side. I think the Arksen PT-30180 looks like a good choice aswell.
Good mudding requires very little sanding. Bad mudding requires more mudding and a lot of sanding. My dad said you better be a good mudder or a good sander when doing your own drywall projects. The bathroom had patch mud and dried too fast. That's why it cracked. You're learning... Enjoying the videos.
Just a tip! get a 40 gallon barrel fill with water and a bit of detergent outside and use to clean and soak your tools used in plaster, cement, & mud products this will prove a point as it will gather the sediment at the bottom. clean as and when. Because mixing and cleaning in the sink will slowly overtime leave residue of said products to harden up in small quantities in p-traps and long run drains giving rise to blocked drains in the future. its not if its a when if you get my drift. :)
You really need to use an orbital sander on your shop vac for the sanding. Much faster and very little dust. I applaud your efforts to learn but please consider a professional for the upstairs. It is like doing great work rebuilding a classic car to perfection and trying to paint it with no experience. It is what you will look at every day. You have done excellent work and I love your videos.
Jessie.. hey do not use that 20 min mud . Buy a box of reg. topping mud and mix it in a bucket with a dab of water tell you get the thickness you want. now spray it. you can add mud or water as you go. It will not set up on you . If it gets thicker add a dab of water. I told you when you are done put about 3 inches of water on top of the mud and leave it tell you are ready to us it again. Pour off the water and let it set for a few minutes and it will thicken up again. use the large holes in the front of the gun and blow globbes on the wall ,let it dry some and than knock it down.
That's your problem you need to let it dry natural at room temperature instead of trying to rush it it should take a couple of days especially for the thick stuff
Not that I am a professional but I believe that is the incorrect "mud" to use in this instance. From my understanding that is more of a patching MUD and it should only be used in an instance where you need it to set quick. 20 minute mud sets fast and is harder to sand. Most drywallers wont use it because its harder to work with. I believe you should be using more of a topping mud but again I am not a professional and this is only from my limited knowledge researching this for my own DIY projects.
My heart goes out to ya! I finished my bathroom re-do a couple months back (with the exact same shower your using!) (I'll send a couple pics if you wish, I still need to adjust the door rail, its not quite level so one door wont stay closed), your at the stage that you may want to consider a bigger hopper and/or mixer paddle. Think about the rest of the house, and how much work you have in front of you for the whole house. I mixed in a five gallon bucket.. The quick dry is TOO QUICK for DIY'ers. Love following you guys, I wish you were closer so I could learn and help!
Well Jesse... you probably already figured this out but I'll go on just the same. I spent my youth working for my Dad, he owned a tile and marble installation business. The first two years of my apprenticeship I mixed up sh!t in buckets with sticks and grouting, oh how I learned to hate grouting lol. Although I would recommend picking up a paddle mixer... if you want to effectively mix with a stick and even a mixer bit on a 1/2" drill... water first, then powder. Typically 1/4 bucket of water will make a full bucket after mixing. While we were tile men... many times we also did drywall as part of remodeling bathrooms. One way that we textured drywall was with a long nap paint roller and on larger jobs we sprayed. In both cases the mud was about the consistency of pancake batter. I guess I will see how you made out in the next video. Mad prop's for doing it yourself! No shame in not knowing as long as one is willing to learn. Keep up the awesome work you two. Love watching your story unfold immensely!
Sheetrock 20 is a setting compound, you can't revive it with more water even with a power mixer. If you use sheetrock 90 you should plan on being done your knockdown within 90 minutes of adding the water.
20 minute mud is to quick for someone who is learning - you also needed if you were going to stay with 20 minute one person mixing and one spraying so you have the flow needed and each batch has to be as close to the first recipe of mud as possible - you need to find the mixer to make sure it is smooth - doing spray plaster is an art form
This bathroom is the go to bathroom when running in from outside right? Coming in dirty and messy I would think you would want an easy to clean surface like FRP panels! it's already textured, easy to clean, hides all
Go look at some new homes for sale, note the finished walls, find one you both like and emulate that. Textured is for oranges, not walls. I have both, I hate the tex, love the flat. Paint bath or cover with removable vinyl wallpaper. 2 cents worth.
The little hopper told me we were in for fine entertainment from Jesse. There comes a time in dry walling and painting that we must have professionals who do this work everyday....... I tried to finish an upstairs renovation with a textured sand ceiling.....after 5 days I call the professionals. They had it done in just under 7 hours.
A few suggestions. I am far from a sheet rock professional. And I HATE doing it. Pro's make it look so simple. I compare it to doing auto body work. They can do more in one hour than I can do in 12 hours and they do a better job. As far as suggestions go: it usually takes at least 2 if not three coats. Don' try to do too much in the first coat. After the first coat dries, use your blade to smooth/scrape off the ridges.Cracking is normal when applied in thick layers. Just apply another coat over the cracks. A fan will greatly increase drying time. A sheet rocker taught me a trick for sanding. I don't ever dry sand any more. Too big a mess. After you"re through applying mud use a sheet rock sponge and a bucket of water to smooth out the walls. It works great and produces "0" dust and mess. Doing a whole house, I'd buy a large hopper. Harbor Freight or on line one will get you one that will make the job easier and quicker and you can get rid of it when your done. Good luck, I feel your Pain. Greg
OK, I know this is too late for J&A, but my 2 cents on today`s adventure. 1 - Don`t confuse setting time with sanding time. Just because the compound sets in 20 minutes does not mean that it is sandable in 20 minutes. It still needs to dry out. (especially before priming and painting) 2 - Short duration setting compounds (20min, 5 min) are for small batches only. 3 - At the end of the video, the problem wasn`t that the batch that was mixed up was too large, rather that it was mixed up and was not used within the set time. 4 - Setting compound cannot be `brought back`, once the water first mixes in, the clock starts ticking. 5 - If you re-use a mixing pail, make sure it is fully cleaned out of the prior mix of mud, otherwise you can end up with problems. (3M pads work welll for removing set product) 6 - Add the powder to water that is already in the mixing container, and you be less likely to end up with dry patches in the corners. 7 - Clean all your tools etc in a 5 gallon pail with about 3-4 gallons of water in it. Allow the compound scraps etc to settle overnight, then pour off the clear water from the top, leaving the debris in the bottom of the pail, instead of down your drain where it can clog up the works. Suggestions For small quantity setting compound, I have a couple of different size mixing bowls (from IKEA) and a hand whisk (also from IKEA), and can mix small batches pretty fast. A rubber spatula gets all the mixed product out of the mixing bowl and into the mud pan. (just like making pancake batter) The curved bowls and the curved whisk pretty much eliminate any chance for dry pockets in the corner, and are easy to clean for the next batch. For slightly larger batches, I made a small whisk I chuck into a drill, and can mix up enough in the large IKEA mixing bowl to fill a mud pan. For anything much larger than a single mud pan, it`s time to bring out the paddle mixer and the mixer drill.
I worked with my friends dad doing drywall for a summer. Hanging and taping was fairly straight forward. Hang it neatly and wipe it tight. He liked to tape with mesh and 45 min durabond. That way you could hit the corners one side and flats 2nd coat on the same day. This was all knife work. When it came time for actual finishing... I was just skilled enough to be allowed in the closets:) He was super picky on texture mud, we would mix up 10 buckets of topping at once pouring between them to even out the batch. It was about cake batter consistency to spray the big globbs he was looking for. Sometimes we would paint the wall a darker color before texture and mix a lighter paint in the texture mud to give a two tone knockdown. Any mud you buy usually has to have some water added to make it nice to work with. 20min compound is pretty much just for patches and touch ups.
Your trying to move to fast, slow down and finish all your prep first. Get the 90 min mud, you'll have better success. Or get Lover Buns to mix while you spray, 4 hands are better than 2.....No worries, you guys are doing great
The pre-mix buckets air dry. The bag of 20 min is a chemical reaction and will set in 20 min no matter what. Should have used the 20 min for the first pass since it doesn't evaporate moisture and shrink and crack. Then use the pre-mix for a light coat at the end.
Use topper and make it really loose. No need to sand and make a mess just add skim coating to your mud only need to sand high humps in the mud. Just float out the edges and wipe with a sponge so much easier
Jesse, when you want fill wide cracks and areas that require a lot of mud, you can use a product called Dura-Bond. They have 45 minute and 90 minute drying time. Caution though, you have to leave room for a top coat of regular dry wall mud. Dura-Bond is not sandable.
I know these feels. Our basement flooded in June and was a total loss. Everything from the main living area to my office/studio. We gutted the whole thing, installed a drain and pump system re-framed/framed in walls. I am finishing up sheetrock now. I found the adhesive mesh tape works great, while texture hides a lot of sins, for the studio I've opted for flat walls for lighting. Flat walls for great for manipulating light when recording and editing. It's been rough. Keep at it, you got this!
Live and learn. Trial and error. That's what life's all about. Mastering new experiences. And you hit the nail on the head when you said better here, than your upstairs. Consider this your practice room or area. You're doing a great job.
If you hired professionals you may not be happy with their work either. Finishing Dry wall to perfection is a real skill that's hard to find. Might as well do it yourself and accept it isn't going to be perfect. I'd start in the least traveled/lived in areas and as you get better move towards the high traffic areas.
It’s really interesting to me that this channel is specifically made for DIY’ers that are interested in learning how to do things, although it’s obvious that the dude doing the work needs to watch a RUclips video himself to learn a bit first.
My wife and I went through the same thing when renovating our house. Get several MT five gallon buckets, a harbor freight mixer, several boxes of regular mud and have Allysa mixing as you are spraying. Good luck with the knockdown. Its not bad to get right in a small room but once you get into the larger rooms in the living area it will drive you nuts if you aren't experienced.
when you open your bag, put all contents into a five-gallon bucket mix it with a paddle, the materials in the bag will separate laying on the shelf at the store, you have three different components that need to flash off all at one time, and when they are not in equal amounts you get poop , I do this process with any dry product I work with and always use the correct amount of water with the volume of product to keep the same consistency, find that ratio first
For your next sheetrock project, DO NOT use texture on the walls. It will stick but it's really made for ceilings. When taping you want to use a 6" knife for the first coat, an 8" for the second coat and I used a curved 16" for the finish coat. the long edges of the sheets are narrower than the side edges, the reason for this is to accommodate the tape in the first coat. what you do is fill in the little valley with mud with the 6" knife then place the tape over the mud and smooth it out, then mud both sides of each corner and smooth that out the corners again with the 6" knife, fold the tape to a 90 degree angle and place it in the corner, then smooth that out. Don't use more than a 1/4" on the first cot and feather the edges as you go. Second and third coats go on thinner and also feathered. You can also of all things RUclips can show you how to do it. I'd be happy to answer questions if my explanation leaves you wondering what the heck I'm talking about.
as soon as I heard texture I knew it would be a mess, never do texture in a bathroom, he'll find out why later. always completely cover anything you don't want sprayed, or it will get sprayed. always read all directions first, especially if you don't know your doing. keep in mind if you texture any rooms many people don't like that crap and its not a selling point if you want to sell later because someone will have to rip everything out and redo it, or you will if you want to change it later on, granted you could sand it all but your better of starting over.
No you're not "trying to get this stuff dry as quick as possible", thats why it cracked all over the place. You want a slow cure on the contrary, also the stuff you used on the badly cracked area was too thick and already curing when you were putting it on, should have used a fresher one.
Pat pat, you guys normaly take your time to do it right and never rush it. Very cool projects from a to z. You are mentors keep it up we all make mistake sometime.
Actually... (That how any Besserwisser comment begins) Texturing the walls will only affect the acoustics of sound-waves where the wavelength is on the same order of magnitude as the texture bumps and hollows, which is in the ultrasonic range, or at least above 10kHz, where middle-aged humans won't hear much of a difference. Bats, however, could definitely hear the difference between smooth and textured walls.
I never had cracking when mixing my own mud, only when using the pre-mixed stuff. The thicker the pre-mixed material, the worse the cracking. It's caused by uneven drying, and you would have had to go over it again anyway because the mud would have shrunk. I now always avoid premixed mud...
Always mud the joint, put on tape with a wider knife, then squeeze the paper into the mud, then mud over the tape with a wider knife. Your mud got to set up on you as you used it. If that sink is hooked to your septic system, expect a clean out a lot sooner than normal
A Drywall Professional is worth every penny These guys do amazing work in half the time. A good friend had his 90 year old house's ceiling installed and mudded by Pro's. It looked like a calm lake surface when they were done. Absolutely beautiful. I can screw up a 4x4 square foot piece!
HUGE TRICK INSTEAD OF SANDING - My Mother-in-law taught me this.. instead of sanding, use a wet washcloth (how wet is determined by how much material you need to remove) and wipe down the seams.. the moist rag will remove any high spots.... Now dust. less mess. often a LOT faster.
I am not a pro, but I think the deep cracks you got were from apply too much (too thick) mud and then using fast drying mud. When you need to do a think build up, expect 4 or more coats. If using regular mud thick coats can take more than 24 hours to dry completely. A barely damp sponge are the the mud set (but is not dry) will take the ridges out. You also need a "fine"/HEPA filter on your shop vac when vacuuming drywall dust, but be prepared to clean it every few hours. Use a leaf blower outside to clear you filter and pay attention to which way the wind is blowing !
once the 20 minute mud kicks its over.If you have any old mud in buckets and on tools it will kick even faster. 20 - 90 minute mud is for repairs or fast build up not texture. get a box of premixed texture mud and thin it to what you need to spray.it also works as a great top coat ,goes on thick sands easy. you may have a problem where you sanded through the paper. some times to hide the sanded paper and seams. I have had to prime the walls with pva primer before shooting the texture .other wise you can see where the exposed paper and seams suck up the texture and it lays down flat in those areas.
Premixed mud for the texture would be easier to work with and save time. You could adjust the mix, more easily with a good paddle mixer(drill). Also, no dirty bucket for mixing your mud, which could add solids to your mix and possible issues with your gun as a result. Once you start doing large walls, you can buy the 5(?) gallon boxes of texture. I'd try to cut any corners possible, to make the job easier. Rinse out any buckets soon after finishing off their contents, to get rid of all dry or semi dry lumps, so your next batch starts out clean(you would be dumping fresh packaged texture into the bucket to prep it for the gun). Mixing from scratch looks like a technical and slow process if you are trying to get the same consistency in every batch. Simplify your mixing operation, so yo can focus on application.....cheers!
Textured walls are hard to repair and hard to clean.. 20 minute mud is only for small touch ups on the second coat. 90 minute is for large batches and the first coat.
you can buy a special roller that will allow you to mix yur mud and paint in one container as long as they are both the same as oil based or water. do not try to mix. You can then use the roller to applythe mixture and it will go on either very heavyor lighter depending on how much you rollit out. I used it before especially in bathrooms but it will work anywhere as long as you get it rolled out to the desired texture. Looking good
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As soon as I saw that bag 20 minute set I knew this video was going to be entertaining. Then trying add more water while using that big mixing stick...........classic lol.
Hi, just a quick tip. try not to mix your mud in your sink... you just built your drainage system, you don't want to block it up with hardened mud already.. it will be costly to fix :-/
I hate to come off as an armchair expert. From what I see, the taped joints are way too narrow and not feathered out far enough. They're barely wider than the tape. The butt joints especially should be feathered out at least 12"-18" wide using three passes with a wide knife and thin mud. The mud is much too thick. Especially by the tub surround.
Why texture ? It goes out of date quickly and is a pain if you want to change it later ... i always think that when some one textures an area it is to cover faults
Texture is so out of date and really hard to change out later. It's very hard to keep clean and hard to paint. Oh well it is your house and you are the ones who have live with it. Good luck with it. Keep the videos coming.
This was incredibly entertaining, did you not read the directions on the fast set? It doesn't DRY, its a chemical set. The panic in the last 3 minutes is fantastic.
Why are so few bathrooms in the us fully tiled? Here in Norway that is a norm. Both floor and ALL the walls are tilled. Makes for a good water barrier :)
You should get a drywall company to do the rest of your house.
I have been in the drywall biz for 40 years and may have a few tips. Do not use any of the fast sets.You will need a 5 gal bucket clean a box of ap mud,flexible 12 in DW knife. put the entire box of ap in the bucket less the box mix to a smooth consistency that will flow thru your gun high pressure for spatter tex lower pressure for knock down, spray the hole room flood the corners first lid and walls in a circular pattern when going for knock down draw knife in a elongated pattern keeping slight pressure on the inside with knife hope this helps you good luck
You were right for a drywaller this is hard to watch popcorn is for the 70's and 80's please leave it there
Damp sponge works great instead of sanding. Five gallon premix mud is cost effective. Use two and a half gallons of mud and thin down to pancake batter for texture gun to spray that room.
The powdered plaster goes hard as a chemical reaction with water. You cannot make it soft again by adding more water. Get the longer setting kind and only mix what you can apply in the working time.
I was surprised by the 20-minute mud, and sadly it bit you. Sorry that didn't work out. Try 90-minute mud, smaller batches. 90 minutes isn't long to wait for it to kick off compared to premixed mud, which is 24 hours. I so wish the videos were in real time, though I know they take a ton of work to produce and put up for us--thank you for all your hard work! If the videos were real-time-ish, your followers would have a wealth of knowledge to share and could give back to you for all you give to us viewers, and I'd bet you'd get things in the mail that would make work easier.
I'm totally on your side! Thanks for letting me follow along with your dream. I'm living vicariously through you two, and I'm so grateful.
I'll say it again , if your washing all that drywall compound down your laundry tub ,your asking for septic field trouble.
So i dont know if any one has said it yet if they have ignore mine. Drywall mud is usually done in 3 to 4 steps. Use fast set to fill all cracks,gaps,corner beads and tap setting. Then all purpose/topping to fillover the main fill (mix premixed mud to smooth out for easier use). Topping mix with water to thin mud to fill all bubbles and scrapes. And then texture.useing the fast set as the base will eliminatemost of the shrinking and cracking of the mud
the mud can plug your drains.
Fast setting mud sounds like a good idea but unless you are used to it and can do it quickly you are better off using regular mud. Also once you mix it it starts to cure and if you add it to or use the same container without cleaning it it speeds up curing
We used to call the not so feathered edges of the mud coat, "nickel edges"! So the rookies would have to sand what they applied to teach them how important to avoid "nickel edges"!. They were started spotting nails, and in closets to learn to finish, which was mostly angles and spotting nails. You were right to not use mud that had any dried parts. We called them drags. The golden rule of drywall is to have a 5gal. bucket ready at all times to clean the mud tray and tools! Keep them clean! If they get dry, it is a lot of work to get them clean! Jess you are doing these videos to show the progress of your house, they are also a teaching those who have never done drywall hanging and finishing. You are basically doing it right. The new modern mesh tape that sticks itself on is good for high stress areas. I like the paper tape. You have brought back a lot of memories about my youth working with my Dad. You are smart, you will figure it out. Thanxz
I mean why the hell would you mix it up with out the prep work been finished
Seeing as you will be doing ALOT more drywalling in the years to come a real drywall sander that you can attach your vacuum to is a big recommendation. Festtool has a really good one but kinda on the expensive side. I think the Arksen PT-30180 looks like a good choice aswell.
Good mudding requires very little sanding. Bad mudding requires more mudding and a lot of sanding. My dad said you better be a good mudder or a good sander when doing your own drywall projects. The bathroom had patch mud and dried too fast. That's why it cracked. You're learning... Enjoying the videos.
Just a tip! get a 40 gallon barrel fill with water and a bit of detergent outside and use to clean and soak your tools used in plaster, cement, & mud products this will prove a point as it will gather the sediment at the bottom. clean as and when. Because mixing and cleaning in the sink will slowly overtime leave residue of said products to harden up in small quantities in p-traps and long run drains giving rise to blocked drains in the future. its not if its a when if you get my drift. :)
You are going to hate that texture when it comes to cleaning it
What in the heck are you doing? Your killing me on this drywall project.
You really need to use an orbital sander on your shop vac for the sanding. Much faster and very little dust. I applaud your efforts to learn but please consider a professional for the upstairs. It is like doing great work rebuilding a classic car to perfection and trying to paint it with no experience. It is what you will look at every day. You have done excellent work and I love your videos.
Jessie.. hey do not use that 20 min mud . Buy a box of reg. topping mud and mix it in a bucket with a dab of water tell you get the thickness you want. now spray it. you can add mud or water as you go. It will not set up on you . If it gets thicker add a dab of water. I told you when you are done put about 3 inches of water on top of the mud and leave it tell you are ready to us it again. Pour off the water and let it set for a few minutes and it will thicken up again. use the large holes in the front of the gun and blow globbes on the wall ,let it dry some and than knock it down.
That's your problem you need to let it dry natural at room temperature instead of trying to rush it it should take a couple of days especially for the thick stuff
Not that I am a professional but I believe that is the incorrect "mud" to use in this instance. From my understanding that is more of a patching MUD and it should only be used in an instance where you need it to set quick. 20 minute mud sets fast and is harder to sand. Most drywallers wont use it because its harder to work with. I believe you should be using more of a topping mud but again I am not a professional and this is only from my limited knowledge researching this for my own DIY projects.
My heart goes out to ya! I finished my bathroom re-do a couple months back (with the exact same shower your using!) (I'll send a couple pics if you wish, I still need to adjust the door rail, its not quite level so one door wont stay closed), your at the stage that you may want to consider a bigger hopper and/or mixer paddle. Think about the rest of the house, and how much work you have in front of you for the whole house. I mixed in a five gallon bucket.. The quick dry is TOO QUICK for DIY'ers. Love following you guys, I wish you were closer so I could learn and help!
I always use three coats different thicknesses with the final coat the thinnest usually wait a day between coats taping and muddying you cannot hurry
Well Jesse... you probably already figured this out but I'll go on just the same. I spent my youth working for my Dad, he owned a tile and marble installation business. The first two years of my apprenticeship I mixed up sh!t in buckets with sticks and grouting, oh how I learned to hate grouting lol. Although I would recommend picking up a paddle mixer... if you want to effectively mix with a stick and even a mixer bit on a 1/2" drill... water first, then powder. Typically 1/4 bucket of water will make a full bucket after mixing. While we were tile men... many times we also did drywall as part of remodeling bathrooms. One way that we textured drywall was with a long nap paint roller and on larger jobs we sprayed. In both cases the mud was about the consistency of pancake batter. I guess I will see how you made out in the next video. Mad prop's for doing it yourself! No shame in not knowing as long as one is willing to learn. Keep up the awesome work you two. Love watching your story unfold immensely!
I thought texturing was a thing of the past? :o
Sheetrock 20 is a setting compound, you can't revive it with more water even with a power mixer. If you use sheetrock 90 you should plan on being done your knockdown within 90 minutes of adding the water.
It's like watching a train going off the rail, you know ahead of time what was going to happen and you can't do anything to stop it.
20 minute mud is to quick for someone who is learning - you also needed if you were going to stay with 20 minute one person mixing and one spraying so you have the flow needed and each batch has to be as close to the first recipe of mud as possible - you need to find the mixer to make sure it is smooth - doing spray plaster is an art form
Hey I was a painter and did mud work. Hey do not use quick set mud to run it hopper guns!!!! It will set up in the gun. Use reg mud and thin it down
This bathroom is the go to bathroom when running in from outside right? Coming in dirty and messy I would think you would want an easy to clean surface like FRP panels! it's already textured, easy to clean, hides all
Go look at some new homes for sale, note the finished walls, find one you both like and emulate that. Textured is for oranges, not walls. I have both, I hate the tex, love the flat. Paint bath or cover with removable vinyl wallpaper. 2 cents worth.
The little hopper told me we were in for fine entertainment from Jesse. There comes a time in dry walling and painting that we must have professionals who do this work everyday....... I tried to finish an upstairs renovation with a textured sand ceiling.....after 5 days I call the professionals. They had it done in just under 7 hours.
Why are you leaving the gap between the drywall and the tub surround?
A few suggestions. I am far from a sheet rock professional. And I HATE doing it. Pro's make it look so simple. I compare it to doing auto body work. They can do more in one hour than I can do in 12 hours and they do a better job.
As far as suggestions go: it usually takes at least 2 if not three coats. Don' try to do too much in the first coat. After the first coat dries, use your blade to smooth/scrape off the ridges.Cracking is normal when applied in thick layers. Just apply another coat over the cracks. A fan will greatly increase drying time. A sheet rocker taught me a trick for sanding. I don't ever dry sand any more. Too big a mess. After you"re through applying mud use a sheet rock sponge and a bucket of water to smooth out the walls. It works great and produces "0" dust and mess. Doing a whole house, I'd buy a large hopper. Harbor Freight or on line one will get you one that will make the job easier and quicker and you can get rid of it when your done.
Good luck, I feel your Pain.
Greg
you should only use premixed all purpose mud for texturing, add some water to make the right consistency
Drain problems!?
OK, I know this is too late for J&A, but my 2 cents on today`s adventure.
1 - Don`t confuse setting time with sanding time. Just because the compound sets in 20 minutes does not mean that it is sandable in 20 minutes. It still needs to dry out. (especially before priming and painting)
2 - Short duration setting compounds (20min, 5 min) are for small batches only.
3 - At the end of the video, the problem wasn`t that the batch that was mixed up was too large, rather that it was mixed up and was not used within the set time.
4 - Setting compound cannot be `brought back`, once the water first mixes in, the clock starts ticking.
5 - If you re-use a mixing pail, make sure it is fully cleaned out of the prior mix of mud, otherwise you can end up with problems. (3M pads work welll for removing set product)
6 - Add the powder to water that is already in the mixing container, and you be less likely to end up with dry patches in the corners.
7 - Clean all your tools etc in a 5 gallon pail with about 3-4 gallons of water in it. Allow the compound scraps etc to settle overnight, then pour off the clear water from the top, leaving the debris in the bottom of the pail, instead of down your drain where it can clog up the works.
Suggestions
For small quantity setting compound, I have a couple of different size mixing bowls (from IKEA) and a hand whisk (also from IKEA), and can mix small batches pretty fast. A rubber spatula gets all the mixed product out of the mixing bowl and into the mud pan. (just like making pancake batter) The curved bowls and the curved whisk pretty much eliminate any chance for dry pockets in the corner, and are easy to clean for the next batch. For slightly larger batches, I made a small whisk I chuck into a drill, and can mix up enough in the large IKEA mixing bowl to fill a mud pan. For anything much larger than a single mud pan, it`s time to bring out the paddle mixer and the mixer drill.
i wouldn't bother with texture on the garage bathroom, there is nothing wrong with flat walls, they make repairs alot easier as well.
Omg... adding water to an already curing plaster ain't thinning it down. Use 2h cure time for this instead of rushing the clock and loosing your day !
I worked with my friends dad doing drywall for a summer. Hanging and taping was fairly straight forward.
Hang it neatly and wipe it tight. He liked to tape with mesh and 45 min durabond. That way you could hit the corners one side and flats 2nd coat on the same day. This was all knife work.
When it came time for actual finishing... I was just skilled enough to be allowed in the closets:)
He was super picky on texture mud, we would mix up 10 buckets of topping at once pouring between them to even out the batch. It was about cake batter consistency to spray the big globbs he was looking for. Sometimes we would paint the wall a darker color before texture and mix a lighter paint in the texture mud to give a two tone knockdown.
Any mud you buy usually has to have some water added to make it nice to work with. 20min compound is pretty much just for patches and touch ups.
Thanks for sharing a failure with us. A lesson learned from you was a lesson learned for over 50,000 other people at this point.
Your trying to move to fast, slow down and finish all your prep first. Get the 90 min mud, you'll have better success. Or get Lover Buns to mix while you spray, 4 hands are better than 2.....No worries, you guys are doing great
Thanks for showing your setbacks. First time I’ve seen someone try to texture with hot mud. 😂
The pre-mix buckets air dry. The bag of 20 min is a chemical reaction and will set in 20 min no matter what. Should have used the 20 min for the first pass since it doesn't evaporate moisture and shrink and crack. Then use the pre-mix for a light coat at the end.
Use topper and make it really loose. No need to sand and make a mess just add skim coating to your mud only need to sand high humps in the mud. Just float out the edges and wipe with a sponge so much easier
Jesse, when you want fill wide cracks and areas that require a lot of mud, you can use a product called Dura-Bond. They have 45 minute and 90 minute drying time. Caution though, you have to leave room for a top coat of regular dry wall mud. Dura-Bond is not sandable.
Sand it, mud it again, let it dry, sand it again. Repeat if you need to.
I know these feels. Our basement flooded in June and was a total loss. Everything from the main living area to my office/studio. We gutted the whole thing, installed a drain and pump system re-framed/framed in walls. I am finishing up sheetrock now.
I found the adhesive mesh tape works great, while texture hides a lot of sins, for the studio I've opted for flat walls for lighting. Flat walls for great for manipulating light when recording and editing. It's been rough.
Keep at it, you got this!
Live and learn. Trial and error. That's what life's all about. Mastering new experiences. And you hit the nail on the head when you said better here, than your upstairs. Consider this your practice room or area. You're doing a great job.
Curing mud is great for REPAIRS.. also it cures so adding water won’t thin it and won’t really clean it up
thank you for sharing the crappy mess ups and not just the gloss, its okay to be human. :)
Oh Jesse! Mix and use right away, 20 min drying is 20 min drying, mixing then go do sanding and clean gun is a big no no.. Be prepared.
If you hired professionals you may not be happy with their work either. Finishing Dry wall to perfection is a real skill that's hard to find. Might as well do it yourself and accept it isn't going to be perfect. I'd start in the least traveled/lived in areas and as you get better move towards the high traffic areas.
It’s really interesting to me that this channel is specifically made for DIY’ers that are interested in learning how to do things, although it’s obvious that the dude doing the work needs to watch a RUclips video himself to learn a bit first.
I did drywall for almost 10 years 20 minutes no joke you should see five it's insane
My wife and I went through the same thing when renovating our house. Get several MT five gallon buckets, a harbor freight mixer, several boxes of regular mud and have Allysa mixing as you are spraying. Good luck with the knockdown. Its not bad to get right in a small room but once you get into the larger rooms in the living area it will drive you nuts if you aren't experienced.
I prefer no texture just smooth walls.
I actually leave the vac ON in the room I'm sanding in - it picks up a great deal of dust in the air.
when you open your bag, put all contents into a five-gallon bucket mix it with a paddle, the materials in the bag will separate laying on the shelf at the store, you have three different components that need to flash off all at one time, and when they are not in equal amounts you get poop , I do this process with any dry product I work with and always use the correct amount of water with the volume of product to keep the same consistency, find that ratio first
It's. Called 20mins for a reason lol 😂😂😂
For your next sheetrock project, DO NOT use texture on the walls. It will stick but it's really made for ceilings. When taping you want to use a 6" knife for the first coat, an 8" for the second coat and I used a curved 16" for the finish coat. the long edges of the sheets are narrower than the side edges, the reason for this is to accommodate the tape in the first coat. what you do is fill in the little valley with mud with the 6" knife then place the tape over the mud and smooth it out, then mud both sides of each corner and smooth that out the corners again with the 6" knife, fold the tape to a 90 degree angle and place it in the corner, then smooth that out. Don't use more than a 1/4" on the first cot and feather the edges as you go. Second and third coats go on thinner and also feathered. You can also of all things RUclips can show you how to do it. I'd be happy to answer questions if my explanation leaves you wondering what the heck I'm talking about.
My experience with 20 minute mud is you have 10 minutes to work with it
as soon as I heard texture I knew it would be a mess, never do texture in a bathroom, he'll find out why later. always completely cover anything you don't want sprayed, or it will get sprayed. always read all directions first, especially if you don't know your doing. keep in mind if you texture any rooms many people don't like that crap and its not a selling point if you want to sell later because someone will have to rip everything out and redo it, or you will if you want to change it later on, granted you could sand it all but your better of starting over.
STUFF HAPPENS ! Back up a step regroup and barrel on forward. Thanks for sharing.
No you're not "trying to get this stuff dry as quick as possible", thats why it cracked all over the place. You want a slow cure on the contrary, also the stuff you used on the badly cracked area was too thick and already curing when you were putting it on, should have used a fresher one.
You need to go with 45 minute mud. And don't mix it until you are ready to spray (ie. Get all the sanding done before you mix mud).
Pat pat, you guys normaly take your time to do it right and never rush it. Very cool projects from a to z. You are mentors keep it up we all make mistake sometime.
Actually... (That how any Besserwisser comment begins) Texturing the walls will only affect the acoustics of sound-waves where the wavelength is on the same order of magnitude as the texture bumps and hollows, which is in the ultrasonic range, or at least above 10kHz, where middle-aged humans won't hear much of a difference. Bats, however, could definitely hear the difference between smooth and textured walls.
Lol, that's why it's called joint compound, it's for joints! Mud is for textue.
You can roll a texture on Jesse. Thin out Spackle w/whatever rough/fine roller. :)~
I never had cracking when mixing my own mud, only when using the pre-mixed stuff. The thicker the pre-mixed material, the worse the cracking. It's caused by uneven drying, and you would have had to go over it again anyway because the mud would have shrunk. I now always avoid premixed mud...
It's big house , hire profesionals
Most important use 90 minutes, then your hair won't be on fire to get it on the wall, rushing it will lead to a poor outcome.
Tile it...
Entertaining to say the least. Working as a "drywall punch out tech" I saw some crazy stuff, you are doing fine, just keep at it.
Slow down, haste makes waste, get the longer set mixture, slow is smooth and smooth is fast.
Always mud the joint, put on tape with a wider knife, then squeeze the paper into the mud, then mud over the tape with a wider knife. Your mud got to set up on you as you used it. If that sink is hooked to your septic system, expect a clean out a lot sooner than normal
A Drywall Professional is worth every penny These guys do amazing work in half the time. A good friend had his 90 year old house's ceiling installed and mudded by Pro's. It looked like a calm lake surface when they were done. Absolutely beautiful. I can screw up a 4x4 square foot piece!
HUGE TRICK INSTEAD OF SANDING - My Mother-in-law taught me this.. instead of sanding, use a wet washcloth (how wet is determined by how much material you need to remove) and wipe down the seams.. the moist rag will remove any high spots.... Now dust. less mess. often a LOT faster.
why dont you guys just prime and paint the drywall texturing is old school from th 80's save yourselves the headaches
I am not a pro, but I think the deep cracks you got were from apply too much (too thick) mud and then using fast drying mud. When you need to do a think build up, expect 4 or more coats. If using regular mud thick coats can take more than 24 hours to dry completely. A barely damp sponge are the the mud set (but is not dry) will take the ridges out.
You also need a "fine"/HEPA filter on your shop vac when vacuuming drywall dust, but be prepared to clean it every few hours. Use a leaf blower outside to clear you filter and pay attention to which way the wind is blowing !
once the 20 minute mud kicks its over.If you have any old mud in buckets and on tools it will kick even faster. 20 - 90 minute mud is for repairs or fast build up not texture. get a box of premixed texture mud and thin it to what you need to spray.it also works as a great top coat ,goes on thick sands easy. you may have a problem where you sanded through the paper. some times to hide the sanded paper and seams. I have had to prime the walls with pva primer before shooting the texture .other wise you can see where the exposed paper and seams suck up the texture and it lays down flat in those areas.
20 minute mud for texture? Just use regular joint compound from the 5 gallon bucket. $15 or less per bucket.
Premixed mud for the texture would be easier to work with and save time. You could adjust the mix, more easily with a good paddle mixer(drill). Also, no dirty bucket for mixing your mud, which could add solids to your mix and possible issues with your gun as a result. Once you start doing large walls, you can buy the 5(?) gallon boxes of texture. I'd try to cut any corners possible, to make the job easier. Rinse out any buckets soon after finishing off their contents, to get rid of all dry or semi dry lumps, so your next batch starts out clean(you would be dumping fresh packaged texture into the bucket to prep it for the gun). Mixing from scratch looks like a technical and slow process if you are trying to get the same consistency in every batch. Simplify your mixing operation, so yo can focus on application.....cheers!
20 Minute is pretty rough for larger batches. Where I work we carry 5 minute mud up to 90 min, and almost only sell the 45 min.
Never realized how much work drywall and paint prep was
Dumb question from a girl, should the tub interior be covered?
Textured walls are hard to repair and hard to clean.. 20 minute mud is only for small touch ups on the second coat. 90 minute is for large batches and the first coat.
you can buy a special roller that will allow you to mix yur mud and paint in one container as long as they are both the same as oil based or water. do not try to mix. You can then use the roller to applythe mixture and it will go on either very heavyor lighter depending on how much you rollit out. I used it before especially in bathrooms but it will work anywhere as long as you get it rolled out to the desired texture. Looking good
20 minute mud 😂. Great for minor patches, not taping an entire room/house. Don’t use texture! Make three progressively wider coats. Prime and paint.
To me, texture on walls are done to “spec” houses because it hides defects! When you paint use one designed for bathrooms that have mold inhibitors.
This episode reminds me of "LEEEEEROY JEEEEENKINS!!!!"
As soon as I seen that hot mud I understood the title. RIP mini texture gun.