Fun Fact : The Chicago unit will sharpen your tips with a different accent than Boston units. I found I was writing too many aaaaaaahhs with the Boston unit.
I was blown away at how nice this turned out. I used one in the 60's but it was all metal. Busted my knuckles a lot. You did a great job and cheered when I saw JB-Weld come in to save the day.
They still had these "this design but all metal as well" in some of the 90's elementary schools I went too. I don't really remember the knuckles thing but I do feel like part of me remembers pain being involved in these. I mostly remember having to always end up emptying them out cause they would be so stuffed of shavings and no one else seemed to know how to empty it. And they were almost always placed above a trash can for easy dumping.
My Great Aunt had one just like this in her pantry, sharpened many a pencil in it. I guess this is telling my age. Thanks for posting, brings back good memories.
This is the second video of yours I watched. I enjoyed it very much. Two things: My comment on a previous post wished you had purchase links so I could support you in this minor way. Glad to see you've now got them! Also, I think I would have put the old shavings back in as a tribute to it's age and previous owners. But I guess that would be impractical if you intend to use this as a functional item as opposed to just a display. Also, fat chance you have a book detailing your methods, tools and advice? Good job!
Thanks for watching! If you watch some of my more recent videos I actually started including tool tips in the video with every tool, chemical, etc, that I'm using in the video to help others learn to restore too. A book would be a really cool idea!
Have one of these all rusted up in the tool shed, it belonged to my old Grandpa, I’m going to search it out and clean it up after seeing this. Jolly well done on the restoration and thanks for posting, now I know how to disassemble and rebuild the unit.
Best of luck! If you have any questions, just drop a comment here. When you finish I'd love to see the finished photos! You can find my email in the about section of my channel.
Enjoy your trip back in time! The video quality and editing gets a little rougher the further you go back, but we all gotta start somewhere and the charm is still there! 😇👍
Above all, I'm surprised how little yellowing there was on the celluloid. The end result is just gorgeous! Would be awesome to have one of these, but they were never a thing in my country.
Wow ! I’m so amazed of what you’re doing! First: your vision of seeing things of what they can become and what we think is impossible Second: You are a truly artist, how can someone see the truly potential God bless your hands !
Thank you so much for the kinds words! Truth be told it's a combination of researching before I start the project and then just diving right in and seeing where it takes me until it almost tells me what it wants to be by the end.
Me atrapó esta restauración ya que también tengo un "sacapuntas" muy similar. Fue un magnífico trabajo pero tengo una duda, con el paso del tiempo y su uso regular, este tipo de sacapuntas requiere una "afilada" en su mecanismo. ¿Cómo sacarle filo a sus "cuchillas"?
"I got caught by this restoration as I also have a very similar "pencil sharpener". It was a magnificent job but I have a doubt, with the passage of time and regular use, this type of pencil sharpener requires a "sharpening" in its mechanism. How to sharpen its "blades"?" Great question! Luckily on this one the blades were still plenty sharp (as you saw in the video). If you find the blades on your pencil sharpener are dulling, you can try soaking them in vinegar overnight or for a more aggressive chemical you can use ferric chloride. It slightly etches the blades to give them more "bite". Best of luck!
That's a good job! The slightly yellowed celluloid actually looks like it belongs. I would keep an eye out for a replacement on the center piece, however. You did an excellent repair, but I think the metal is brittle from the get-go.😑
I grew up with this exact same pencil sharpener in my parent's basement. Funny, I used it hundreds of times not even thinking about its age. One of my siblings grabbed it several years ago.
I have a “Giant” model from the APSCo. With a tunable face dial for different pencil diameters. Otherwise the internals, celluloid and crank are all identical.
Vaseline may be rubbed on the cellulose to restore it. I think. Dont get mad if it doesnt work, its just an idea. The twin helicle is superior to the modern single helicle cutter. Youve got a really fine pencil sharpener there! Im envious!
Thanks Chris! I have another one to restore sometime in the future (a very old Giant) so I might try some Vaseline in a small inconspicuous place and see what it can do!
Oh boy Von, I assume you meant 'pencil sharpener' but 'penis sharpener' might be the funniest inadvertent slip I've seen in a long time. As far as the celluloid goes, it's definitely not an easy fix for cracks! Your best bet may be to carefully use some super glue along the cracks (no more than a few drops) and cover it with some clear tape (like packing tape) to hold it in place. Then peel up the tape. I have not tried this technique personally, so I'm not sure how well it might go in reality. Whatever you do, avoid using acetone or any alcohols with a cleanup, or else you'll make the plastic permanently hazy.
@@SYBEX21 Cool! It's not a *perfect* match to that era's green (I know exactly what you're referring to!), but as close as you'll probably ever get it spray paint form!
Wonderful job. I hope you have a place for that in your workshop! I have a Boston pencil sharpener in my workshop. I think its appropriate since I'm from Boston.
Thanks Stephen! This does indeed now have a dedicated place in my workshop! I have a Boston pencil sharpener too that I bought with this one at the flea market. I think it's from the 1980's or so. Works like a charm too!
Nice looking result. Having used JB Weld (epoxy w/ steel filler) I'm skeptical that it will prove reliable in this repair. But I watched you test it and so far so good.
You certainly get a like from me 👍. It looks fantastic. And thank you for leaving in mistakes during the process. We all make them and the viewers appreciate honesty. I am amazed that the piece of celluloid survived 100 years. I would venture a guess that if 200 of these still exist yours would be the only one with intact celluloid.
I make mistakes on every project and it's how I learn for next time - figure I might as well give others the chance to learn too! And yeah, of all the sharpeners I've come across from this era I have never seen one with the celluloid perfectly intact. Basically a miracle!
@@CatalystRestorations I have this same model in my basement workshop. I use it regularly, and the celluloid is still perfectly intact, just a bit yellowed.
nice result, especially that you repainted in similar color and the preservation of the original casing. but I think you could be more gentle when sanding areas with remaining text. on the other hand could the sanding of the tri-broken piece have been more intensely after the cold welding. but nevertheless great restoration of this fragile piece.
Thanks Miktas! It's always a careful balance and game you have to play when you've got an extremely pitted surface and delicate, shallow text! Luckily in this case I was able to carefully remove most of the pitting and deep scratches and keep the text legible.
Went to the site and was amazed at the sharpener battles over patents. One unit pictured looks a bit like a meat slicer and would definitely be barred from elementary class rooms.
Nice job, it came out great! Did you test that old original paint for Lead? I'm afraid to sand/wire wheel anything prior to my birth without testing it first...haha
The fear is real! I did not test for lead here, but I PPE up to the max for the 30 seconds or so it takes to wire wheel them. Lead-specific respirator, clothes, , and plastic barriers to minimize the spread of any particles to the rest of the shop. I also try to keep the parts wet during wire wheeling to keep the dust down, just in case.
@@CatalystRestorations I believe the part that was broken contains lead? Enough to mark my hands and any sort of paper or anything of that nature. I found one of these in a garage sale that's in excellent condition. Mechanically at least. It looks just as tarnished as yours when you started.
@@smilemore1997 it's possible that there may be some lead in there, but that part is more than likely just cast iron. Cast iron, depending on the exact carbon content, can leave marks behind on things. It's possibly also graphite powder from the pencils that were sharpened.
Hi David! I mention it in the video description, but the celluloid is really fragile and using UV light/hydrogen peroxide does embrittle plastic a bit so it's risky to do here. Also, UV brightening really only works well on opaque plastics. For transparent plastics, the treatment never reaches the "inside" plastic to un-yellow it, no matter how much you let it sit in intense UV.
Il est vraiment dommage que vous n’avez pas joué aussi, au petit chimiste, avec la partie en pexiglass, pour retrouver sa transparence ! Pourtant il existe des tutoriels sur RUclips, pour cette technique !
"It is really a pity that you did not play the little chemist with the pexiglass part, to find its transparency! However there are tutorials on RUclips, for this technique!" Hi! I really wish it were possible to de-yellow the celluloid! Unfortunately, the de-yellowing process, commonly performed with hydrogen peroxide and UV light, only really works on opaque plastics. The process only 'attacks' the outermost layer of plastic, so in the case of transparent plastics you will never be able to de-yellow the 'inside' plastic. This process also embrittles the plastic to some degree, and in this case the celluloid is already extremely fragile so just a gentle cleaning is best in order to keep it in one piece.
I could read it, so you have my sub. 😄 I would have anyway; the end result was a beautiful piece of history brought back to life. I had no idea how you were going to handle the clear center piece without marring the crest and the lettering, but it's a lot more well-made than I thought. Now I have some binge watching to do!
If you're referring to how long I soak my parts in a clean batch of Evapo-Rust, I usually just leave it overnight (10-12 hours) then clean the next day. If you're referring to how long I can keep reusing it, I'm still using the same one gallon I bought over 2 years ago - you can keep reusing it until it's pitch black and you'll notice it stops removing rust. I've done about 25 small to medium projects with one gallon over that time span. Hope that helps!
@@CatalystRestorations nope, what I'm asking is how many times do you use it? Like I have some that's 3 years old and I'm wondering the effectiveness of it is.
@@Garyhitch56 Should be totally good to use still! Just give some stuff a soak and see what happens honestly. I think it really has about an indefinitely long shelf life as long as it's in a relatively sealed container (to minimize evaporation since it's ~80% water).
Thanks! Believe it or not I just film using my everyday phone, a Samsung Galaxy S21+. It does 4k 60fps! I started out with a Canon Vixia HF R800 (1080p 60fps) but quickly realized my camera phone was better 😳. It gets the job done!
I wonder how they crimped those last tabs on the inside at the factory when they made these. Probably some rig that slipped inside and had a place on the outside to give a hammer blow and easy peasy it's done.
I tried sooooo hard to decipher how they might've assembled it. My best guesses are a special jig like you said or the celluloid was simply much more flexible in its prime and it was easier to just slip it in after the metal casing was assembled.
I’ve watched a lot of your videos, you do nice work, a couple of questions, as have you thought about using rust converter on some metal parts that you intend to paint? And I was wondering why you don’t use heat or annealing to remove dents and bends, would that be better then hammering which can have a tin canning effect by stretching the metal. I would love to see you do a more complicated restoration, say a gas or electric powered tool for example, keep up the great work
Hi Travis! I actually haven't considered using a rust converter before. I guess I just don't trust it to not flake the paint off in the future or give me a perfect surface finish compared to just properly preparing and priming fresh, bare metal. Regarding heating to fix dents and bends - you're right! Using heat to un-dent and unbend is generally best practice, especially for spots that will undergo stresses or strains. Most of my projects up to this point, except namely the HK Porter bolt cutters, don't usually require high mechanical stress or strain on the metal so it's mostly just cosmetic. Regardless, heating the spots would make it easier to bang out a dent still! And I would love to watch MYSELF restore something like a gas or electric powered tool! It'll happen sooner rather than later for sure. It's complicated, but partly comes down to the fact that Catalyst Restorations is a hobby channel, and I only have a handful of hours a month to work on a project and edit and publish a video. The more complicated the project, the more months it takes to publish. And unfortunately RUclips heavily favorites channels that pump out content at minimum once a month, sometimes every week and I just can't compete with that unless it's my full-time job!
As an idea, maybe you could do a more complicated restoration but break it up into parts, I watched a series of 32 videos of a guy who tore down and completely restored a model T, although the wait between the video releases is like waiting for Christmas but so worth it. If that doesn’t work with your life schedule I understand, there are not a lot of restoration channels that I truly have the ASMR experience but with your videos I do, so I am trying to encourage you to go big, thanks
That's a really good point! I'll have to seriously consider that for the bigger projects. The drill press you might e seen briefly in a couple of the videos is my grandfather's 1940's Milwaukee Delta and it's in dire need of a complete teardown and rebuild! Might be the first really big project!
I've read and seen other videos that soaking the blades in ferric chloride or even just vinegar to help sharpen the blades a bit. Luckily the ones in this sharpener were plenty sharp still!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Someone paid an equivalent of $2000 for this in 1914 [Restoration]](/img/1.gif)
Fun Fact : The Chicago unit will sharpen your tips with a different accent than Boston units. I found I was writing too many aaaaaaahhs with the Boston unit.
Ooooooh that explains why when I tried writing out "the bears" it wrote DA BEARS
😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅 I knew it
I was blown away at how nice this turned out. I used one in the 60's but it was all metal. Busted my knuckles a lot. You did a great job and cheered when I saw JB-Weld come in to save the day.
The busted knuckles unites us all!! And I'm petitioning to get JB Weld added to the holy trinity of duct tape, WD-40, and Great Stuff expanding foam.
They still had these "this design but all metal as well" in some of the 90's elementary schools I went too. I don't really remember the knuckles thing but I do feel like part of me remembers pain being involved in these. I mostly remember having to always end up emptying them out cause they would be so stuffed of shavings and no one else seemed to know how to empty it. And they were almost always placed above a trash can for easy dumping.
BOSTON
My Great Aunt had one just like this in her pantry, sharpened many a pencil in it. I guess this is telling my age. Thanks for posting, brings back good memories.
You're very welcome, Christopher! Glad I could take you on a walk down memory lane 😁
This is the second video of yours I watched. I enjoyed it very much. Two things: My comment on a previous post wished you had purchase links so I could support you in this minor way. Glad to see you've now got them! Also, I think I would have put the old shavings back in as a tribute to it's age and previous owners. But I guess that would be impractical if you intend to use this as a functional item as opposed to just a display. Also, fat chance you have a book detailing your methods, tools and advice? Good job!
Thanks for watching! If you watch some of my more recent videos I actually started including tool tips in the video with every tool, chemical, etc, that I'm using in the video to help others learn to restore too. A book would be a really cool idea!
Have one of these all rusted up in the tool shed, it belonged to my old Grandpa, I’m going to search it out and clean it up after seeing this. Jolly well done on the restoration and thanks for posting, now I know how to disassemble and rebuild the unit.
Best of luck! If you have any questions, just drop a comment here. When you finish I'd love to see the finished photos! You can find my email in the about section of my channel.
What a pleasure to watch this without any spoken commentary!
Thanks David! I hate my own voice enough to never want to record it anyways! 😁
I have one similar to that one in my kitchen, It has a solid metal shavings container, rather than the celluloid type and it works just like new!
Awesome! They don't make them like they used to!
I just discovered your channel. This is excellent.....I now feel compelled, no, obligated, to go back and watch every one of your previous videos.
Enjoy your trip back in time! The video quality and editing gets a little rougher the further you go back, but we all gotta start somewhere and the charm is still there! 😇👍
100 years no more - looks like it rolled off the factory. great job!
Thanks Danymite!!! Love your restoration projects too, by the way! Keep up the great work!
@@CatalystRestorations much appreciated, thank you for your kind comment.
Above all, I'm surprised how little yellowing there was on the celluloid. The end result is just gorgeous! Would be awesome to have one of these, but they were never a thing in my country.
Yeah, this one's celluloid was in the best shape I've ever seen! Apparently it was just sitting in a basement for 50+ years, which explains it!
Te felicito amigo es agradable ver como trabajas y terminas tu trabajo, y lo mejor es que lo dejas como nuevo. Saludos
¡Gracias!
What a beautiful little piece of history. I love the color. You do really nice work
Thank you, Teresa! The color is personally my favorite part of the whole project!
Spot on with the foam green for tat era sharpener! Great Restoration!
Thanks Mike! The color match is by far my favorite part of this restoration!
Fantastic work, well done!
Thanks, Darren!
Wow ! I’m so amazed of what you’re doing!
First: your vision of seeing things of what they can become and what we think is impossible
Second: You are a truly artist, how can someone see the truly potential
God bless your hands !
Thank you so much for the kinds words!
Truth be told it's a combination of researching before I start the project and then just diving right in and seeing where it takes me until it almost tells me what it wants to be by the end.
Beautiful job on an object that is so familiar to so many people.
It really is something that seemingly transcends time and bridges generations!
Starring diver Dan! Hilarious!!!😂😂😂 Great restoration! Thanks for sharing!
😂 Thanks for watching! I love LEGO as much as restoring things!
I have one of these in the basement...Will have to try this for myself!!!
Best of luck, feel free to drop another comment if you have any questions while you're restoring it!
Great Restoration!!!!!
Thanks Kenneth! ✏️✏️
Nice piece. Congratulations.
Thanks Jair!
Nicely repaired and refinished. I hope the epoxy holds up for a long long time. Thumbs Up!
Thanks Gary! Me too, haha!
Fantastic restoration!!! 5 Stars !!!!! I wish I had a pencil sharpener just like that one!!!!
Thanks! You can find this one and other very similar ones on eBay pretty easily!!
Very good restoration job and the pencil sharpener works like a charm. Way to go.
Thanks George! I would sharpen brand new pencils down to nubs all day if I could! So satisfying!
Very nice project 👍 turned out pretty cool.
Great job
Thanks!!
Me atrapó esta restauración ya que también tengo un "sacapuntas" muy similar. Fue un magnífico trabajo pero tengo una duda, con el paso del tiempo y su uso regular, este tipo de sacapuntas requiere una "afilada" en su mecanismo. ¿Cómo sacarle filo a sus "cuchillas"?
"I got caught by this restoration as I also have a very similar "pencil sharpener". It was a magnificent job but I have a doubt, with the passage of time and regular use, this type of pencil sharpener requires a "sharpening" in its mechanism. How to sharpen its "blades"?"
Great question! Luckily on this one the blades were still plenty sharp (as you saw in the video). If you find the blades on your pencil sharpener are dulling, you can try soaking them in vinegar overnight or for a more aggressive chemical you can use ferric chloride. It slightly etches the blades to give them more "bite". Best of luck!
Excellent result. Did you change the bearing ? Or you left the original ?
There are no bearings in this.
@@CatalystRestorations yes, you're right. I thought there was a bearing behind the ring gear. My mistake!
oh my... i have one just like this one i would not dare to do a restoration on it. love the way it is...
There is absolutely nothing wrong with appreciating something for what it is today! Do what makes you happy! 😁👍
Looks way better well done.
Thanks!!
Cool project buddy , great restoration and beautiful result turned out, I liked it 👍
Thanks! I just love the retro look of it so much!
That's a good job! The slightly yellowed celluloid actually looks like it belongs. I would keep an eye out for a replacement on the center piece, however. You did an excellent repair, but I think the metal is brittle from the get-go.😑
I love the highly technical special effects. 😊
Most of the budget goes toward special effects! 😂
I remember when emptying the pencil sharpeners and clapping erasers was a school chore. I'm getting old.
I don't miss clapping erasers, oof I can still taste it
Wow! That looks amazing!
Thanks Robert! One of my favorite projects!
I love the Laurel Green, brings back memories!
From the times when it was the default color!
Honestly really enjoyed this video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Rebecca! And you're welcome! :)
This is so awesome! Love the color you chose! And working great 😀
Ahhh! Thanks for watching Missy!!! 😁👍
Wonderful!
I laughed and hit subscribe when I saw that mirrored message :D
Greetings from London.
Thanks for the sub! I painstakingly wrote that backwards lettering freehanded, haha
Absolutely brilliant!
Thank you! ✏️
I was like "please no talking, please no talking" then there was no talking! Happy dance!
You never have to worry about that! No Catalyst Restorations video will ever have narration or voiceover!
Great job.
Thank you!
I grew up with this exact same pencil sharpener in my parent's basement. Funny, I used it hundreds of times not even thinking about its age. One of my siblings grabbed it several years ago.
Crazy right? These things are indestructible.
@@CatalystRestorations apart from the piece you had to jb weld
I have a “Giant” model from the APSCo. With a tunable face dial for different pencil diameters. Otherwise the internals, celluloid and crank are all identical.
I love the Giant's design! Might have to get one to grow the APSCO family!
@@CatalystRestorations does yours have a makers mark on the inside of the bases neck. Mine has two initials of BB
Vaseline may be rubbed on the cellulose to restore it. I think. Dont get mad if it doesnt work, its just an idea. The twin helicle is superior to the modern single helicle cutter. Youve got a really fine pencil sharpener there! Im envious!
Thanks Chris! I have another one to restore sometime in the future (a very old Giant) so I might try some Vaseline in a small inconspicuous place and see what it can do!
Oooh I am glad to see that plastic guard on your grinder.
Thanks! Safety first! I always wear full goggles but that guard has stopped numerous little things from flying at me.
Nice job !! It looks really good and I really like the shade of Green !!👍👍
Thanks Robert! Still amazed with how well I was able to color match the original paint color!
Nice work. I remember using those in my school days back in the 1950's! :)
They really do seem to transcend time itself!!
You do really nice work
Thanks Martin!!
So satisfying to watch.
Thanks! It's one of my all-time favorite restorations!
Nicely done.
Thanks Alexander!
All of the schools I’ve been too have some variation of these sharpers. They work better than the electric ones!
You really can't improve on perfection!
So many pencils ✏, so little time.. Very nice work...
I could sharpen all day! Thanks Gary!!
Nicely done … but one question. What is the benefit of the bulky gloves during dismantle?
Lots of sharp, rusty edges when disassembling. These gloves are cut resistant, unlike disposable gloves. And much better for the environment.
nice restoration
Thank you!
Amazing. Congratulations.
Thanks, William! One of my favorite restorations I've ever done.
Yo si pienso que eres un genio, tu trabajo es increíble, gracias por compartirlo con nosotros 😊
¡Muchas gracias Miguel!
I actually have the exact same pencil sharpener. What would you do if the plastic body is cracked, although complete?
Oh boy Von, I assume you meant 'pencil sharpener' but 'penis sharpener' might be the funniest inadvertent slip I've seen in a long time.
As far as the celluloid goes, it's definitely not an easy fix for cracks! Your best bet may be to carefully use some super glue along the cracks (no more than a few drops) and cover it with some clear tape (like packing tape) to hold it in place. Then peel up the tape. I have not tried this technique personally, so I'm not sure how well it might go in reality. Whatever you do, avoid using acetone or any alcohols with a cleanup, or else you'll make the plastic permanently hazy.
@@CatalystRestorations I did! 🤣 that was one bad autocorrect hahaha
@@CatalystRestorations thanks a lot, I'll give that a try
@@vonrodermond7372 Totally made my week, hahaha
Мне нравится смотреть, как это устроено изнутри.В детстве любила разбирать игрушки на детали, чтобы посмотреть механизм.
Agreed! I never get tired of watching those planetary gears rotating!
Thanks. Ever since I was a child, I have wanted to know how a pencil sharpener works )
These are my absolute favorite kind of comments! You are so welcome!
Amazing job
Thanks for watching!
What color green is that!?
It's Rustoleum's color "laurel green". Like or not, it's essentially identical to the original color it was painted from the factory!
@@CatalystRestorations Thank you. I've been looking for a green that is a 50s industrial.
@@SYBEX21 Cool! It's not a *perfect* match to that era's green (I know exactly what you're referring to!), but as close as you'll probably ever get it spray paint form!
Wonderful job. I hope you have a place for that in your workshop! I have a Boston pencil sharpener in my workshop. I think its appropriate since I'm from Boston.
Thanks Stephen! This does indeed now have a dedicated place in my workshop! I have a Boston pencil sharpener too that I bought with this one at the flea market. I think it's from the 1980's or so. Works like a charm too!
Great video, great restoration and wow what a great sharpener
Thanks bud! It's a beaut!
Nice looking result. Having used JB Weld (epoxy w/ steel filler) I'm skeptical that it will prove reliable in this repair. But I watched you test it and so far so good.
Definitely so far so good!
Great Restoration! Love how the green came out!
But I think Diver Dan needs a name change to Snorkeler Stan.
Hahaha, TO BE FAIR...he is wearing both a snorkel and a SCUBA tank!
Like and subscribe if you remember your knuckles getting destroyed against the walls using a crank sharpener like this!
Nice recovery and repair! Looks great!!🤠👍
Thanks Vic!! 👍
You certainly get a like from me 👍. It looks fantastic. And thank you for leaving in mistakes during the process. We all make them and the viewers appreciate honesty. I am amazed that the piece of celluloid survived 100 years. I would venture a guess that if 200 of these still exist yours would be the only one with intact celluloid.
I make mistakes on every project and it's how I learn for next time - figure I might as well give others the chance to learn too!
And yeah, of all the sharpeners I've come across from this era I have never seen one with the celluloid perfectly intact. Basically a miracle!
@@CatalystRestorations I have this same model in my basement workshop. I use it regularly, and the celluloid is still perfectly intact, just a bit yellowed.
Nice job well done it looks great 👍
Thanks David! This is still one of my favorite restorations!
Dude that is awsome..I always enjoy ur videos. ..
Glad you like them, Jorge!!
Very Nice video, Video of restoration with a sense of humour
Thanks for watching!! 😁👍
Awesome work!
Thanks! 😁👍
nice result, especially that you repainted in similar color and the preservation of the original casing. but I think you could be more gentle when sanding areas with remaining text. on the other hand could the sanding of the tri-broken piece have been more intensely after the cold welding. but nevertheless great restoration of this fragile piece.
Thanks Miktas! It's always a careful balance and game you have to play when you've got an extremely pitted surface and delicate, shallow text! Luckily in this case I was able to carefully remove most of the pitting and deep scratches and keep the text legible.
Went to the site and was amazed at the sharpener battles over patents. One unit pictured looks a bit like a meat slicer and would definitely be barred from elementary class rooms.
Pretty crazy history, right? Also I can just imagine a kid sharpening their finger in the meat slicer looking one 😱
Nice job, it came out great! Did you test that old original paint for Lead? I'm afraid to sand/wire wheel anything prior to my birth without testing it first...haha
The fear is real! I did not test for lead here, but I PPE up to the max for the 30 seconds or so it takes to wire wheel them. Lead-specific respirator, clothes, , and plastic barriers to minimize the spread of any particles to the rest of the shop. I also try to keep the parts wet during wire wheeling to keep the dust down, just in case.
@@CatalystRestorations I believe the part that was broken contains lead? Enough to mark my hands and any sort of paper or anything of that nature. I found one of these in a garage sale that's in excellent condition. Mechanically at least. It looks just as tarnished as yours when you started.
@@smilemore1997 it's possible that there may be some lead in there, but that part is more than likely just cast iron. Cast iron, depending on the exact carbon content, can leave marks behind on things. It's possibly also graphite powder from the pencils that were sharpened.
When you had these in school as a child in the early 2000's 🥲
I feel like it's one of the few things in common that school kids have all had for 100 years!
@@CatalystRestorations I definitely agree! Personally just seeing the same design but it being 100 years old makes me feel old! 😂
Great work, loved to watch 👍
Thank you for watching!
How come you didn't UV light the plastic to remove the yellowing?
Hi David! I mention it in the video description, but the celluloid is really fragile and using UV light/hydrogen peroxide does embrittle plastic a bit so it's risky to do here. Also, UV brightening really only works well on opaque plastics. For transparent plastics, the treatment never reaches the "inside" plastic to un-yellow it, no matter how much you let it sit in intense UV.
Thanks, I learned something new
Il est vraiment dommage que vous n’avez pas joué aussi, au petit chimiste, avec la partie en pexiglass, pour retrouver sa transparence ! Pourtant il existe des tutoriels sur RUclips, pour cette technique !
"It is really a pity that you did not play the little chemist with the pexiglass part, to find its transparency! However there are tutorials on RUclips, for this technique!"
Hi! I really wish it were possible to de-yellow the celluloid! Unfortunately, the de-yellowing process, commonly performed with hydrogen peroxide and UV light, only really works on opaque plastics. The process only 'attacks' the outermost layer of plastic, so in the case of transparent plastics you will never be able to de-yellow the 'inside' plastic. This process also embrittles the plastic to some degree, and in this case the celluloid is already extremely fragile so just a gentle cleaning is best in order to keep it in one piece.
Magnifique restauration. Le taille crayon a 100 ans et je trouve que sa conception est vraiment très sympas.
C'est vraiment beau, n'est-ce pas ? Merci d'avoir regardé!
Perfect
Thanks David!
Amazing!!
Thank you!
Looks great 👍
Thank you very much!
Very nice restoration. That'll keep for a lifrtime.
It's used all the time! Check out my latest video to see it make a cameo!
@@CatalystRestorations I’ve seen it. That’s what made me watch this video.
MARAVILLOSO BUENÍSIMO GRACIAS
GRACIAS!
I could read it, so you have my sub. 😄 I would have anyway; the end result was a beautiful piece of history brought back to life. I had no idea how you were going to handle the clear center piece without marring the crest and the lettering, but it's a lot more well-made than I thought.
Now I have some binge watching to do!
Thatnks for the sub and happy binging! 😁👍
About looks new again!
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
Thank you!!
@@CatalystRestorations You're welcome!
Awesome restoration :)
Thank you!!
Awesome vid 🤘🤘I loooove the comments about how you managed to break it even more!! 😂😂
Haha, I am my own worst enemy but it makes for a good entertainment! 🤷🏽♂️😂
Quick question, how long do you use your Evoprust?
If you're referring to how long I soak my parts in a clean batch of Evapo-Rust, I usually just leave it overnight (10-12 hours) then clean the next day. If you're referring to how long I can keep reusing it, I'm still using the same one gallon I bought over 2 years ago - you can keep reusing it until it's pitch black and you'll notice it stops removing rust. I've done about 25 small to medium projects with one gallon over that time span. Hope that helps!
@@CatalystRestorations nope, what I'm asking is how many times do you use it? Like I have some that's 3 years old and I'm wondering the effectiveness of it is.
@@Garyhitch56 Should be totally good to use still! Just give some stuff a soak and see what happens honestly. I think it really has about an indefinitely long shelf life as long as it's in a relatively sealed container (to minimize evaporation since it's ~80% water).
As a life long Steve, I approve of the naming of thew saw tooth shark
My sweet home town
My hometown too! Daaaaa Bears!
The memories 😆 🤣 wonderful job 👏
CORE MEMORY UNLOCKED
I remember using something like this as a kid at school
Seems even kids today can still relate!
Very nice! 👍
Thank you! 👍
Great job. Which camera do use? Video is great
Thanks! Believe it or not I just film using my everyday phone, a Samsung Galaxy S21+. It does 4k 60fps! I started out with a Canon Vixia HF R800 (1080p 60fps) but quickly realized my camera phone was better 😳. It gets the job done!
watching 16:00 on loop for the foreseeable future
I should make it into a perfectly looping gif.... 🤔🤔
Very nice work
Subscribed
Thank you and thanks for subscribing!! Welcome to the club! 😎
I wonder how they crimped those last tabs on the inside at the factory when they made these. Probably some rig that slipped inside and had a place on the outside to give a hammer blow and easy peasy it's done.
I tried sooooo hard to decipher how they might've assembled it. My best guesses are a special jig like you said or the celluloid was simply much more flexible in its prime and it was easier to just slip it in after the metal casing was assembled.
I’ve watched a lot of your videos, you do nice work, a couple of questions, as have you thought about using rust converter on some metal parts that you intend to paint? And I was wondering why you don’t use heat or annealing to remove dents and bends, would that be better then hammering which can have a tin canning effect by stretching the metal. I would love to see you do a more complicated restoration, say a gas or electric powered tool for example, keep up the great work
Hi Travis! I actually haven't considered using a rust converter before. I guess I just don't trust it to not flake the paint off in the future or give me a perfect surface finish compared to just properly preparing and priming fresh, bare metal.
Regarding heating to fix dents and bends - you're right! Using heat to un-dent and unbend is generally best practice, especially for spots that will undergo stresses or strains. Most of my projects up to this point, except namely the HK Porter bolt cutters, don't usually require high mechanical stress or strain on the metal so it's mostly just cosmetic. Regardless, heating the spots would make it easier to bang out a dent still!
And I would love to watch MYSELF restore something like a gas or electric powered tool! It'll happen sooner rather than later for sure. It's complicated, but partly comes down to the fact that Catalyst Restorations is a hobby channel, and I only have a handful of hours a month to work on a project and edit and publish a video. The more complicated the project, the more months it takes to publish. And unfortunately RUclips heavily favorites channels that pump out content at minimum once a month, sometimes every week and I just can't compete with that unless it's my full-time job!
@@CatalystRestorations awesome, thanks for answering, I love your work, keep at it, can’t wait for your next restoration
As an idea, maybe you could do a more complicated restoration but break it up into parts, I watched a series of 32 videos of a guy who tore down and completely restored a model T, although the wait between the video releases is like waiting for Christmas but so worth it. If that doesn’t work with your life schedule I understand, there are not a lot of restoration channels that I truly have the ASMR experience but with your videos I do, so I am trying to encourage you to go big, thanks
That's a really good point! I'll have to seriously consider that for the bigger projects. The drill press you might e seen briefly in a couple of the videos is my grandfather's 1940's Milwaukee Delta and it's in dire need of a complete teardown and rebuild! Might be the first really big project!
@@CatalystRestorations that would be awesome! Keep on keepin on bud, anxious for your next restore
I had one of those sharpeners. When I parted with it it was so worn out it wouldn't sharpen anything
I've read and seen other videos that soaking the blades in ferric chloride or even just vinegar to help sharpen the blades a bit. Luckily the ones in this sharpener were plenty sharp still!