...these are really good videos...every word is useful information...no babbling on and on... just what you need to know, and why you need to know it...
I am new to archery, started about a month ago. I am finding your videos helpful to learn more details about form and tools when upgrading my bow in the future. Since coming into archery I don't know what a lot of the terms such as "raising the risers mark" as an example. I did figure it out through out the video but as a future video maybe you could cover some of the more common terms meanings? Thank you for your work!
Thank you for your channel. You are a gifted speaker, and you have organized the material so that it is easy to follow, and you focus on the essentials with reasonable recommendations.
Excellent video my friend. But, one of the problems with archery is the availability to try different limbs, risers and setups. That said, we all must endure the journey.
Thank you Coach now as you can tell from the following statement I am a new one I had since starting archery limbs made out of bamboo/fibre materials and as I increased my poundage I now use maple wood/fibre. And there is a difference more stiff, more powerful at the same poundage and a nice snappy strong shot.
Maybe worth pointing out that there are target and hunting limbs. In the early part of my archery journey I did not like the intense graphics on target limbs and bought less decorated hunting limbs not understanding that those were rated on shorter hunting risers.
This was interesting. Newbie question: Why not a riser which is isn't 23-27", but maybe only 5-10"? I'm asking, since knowing a little about wooden bows tells me that there are certain advantages to a bow with a working grip. Thanks.
The optimal balance has gravitated towards a 25” riser for decades for a reason. It gives an efficient amount of working limb geometry while offering numerous weight tuning point options along the length of the riser. From a competitive stance, going below this length generally is a sacrifice in tuning options; this is why I say often that shorter risers like a 23” are reserved for smaller stature archers who can’t handle a 25” in a stable manner. As always, you are free to experiment with whatever you like. But as I’ve stated repeatedly before, what I teach is based on the cumulative experience and experimentation of top archers in competitive Barebow. You can be assured that if there was a better approach to setup, they would have all gravitated towards it over the years. Following in their proven footsteps is the fastest way for a beginner to become proficient at competitive Barebow.
@@barebowbasics Thank you very much for your thorough reply. That makes a lot of sense. I'm more interested in traditional bows without all the tuning options you mention. So, thanks to your explanation I now see why a rather long riser in this type of archery makes a lot of sense, while the same might not be the case with a traditional bow.
Unfortunately, there are simply too many variables involved to predict this, from arrow weight and point weight, to archers draw length, anchor placement and shot execution technique/grip pressure balance. The only way you will know is if you give it a try…
This is a personal preference decision. Most archers tend to put it on the limb fade; the further past the end of the limb fade, the greater the dampening effect.
What about them? They are up to the archer; a different set of limbs is not going to magically give an archer a higher score. This is a truth that many people don’t want to accept.
Well, I am considering use Olympic bows, for hunting. Lucky I watched this video, did not know the shorter limbs are for shorter draw length. They do not mention this on the websites selling the limbs over here in clown world.
Generally yes, shorter limbs for shorter draws. Absolutely true in a competitive setup as you want to build in the most smoothness and forgiveness possible, so a longer draw would want longer limbs. In a hunting setup, there’s a little leeway, and you can get away with being undersized by one limb size as long as the limb is made well; you will be bending it into a curve that is more intense than its usual intended range so the possibility of stacking (uncomfortable rapid increase in draw weight on the fingers) and increased finger pinch angle exist. These are often acceptable trade offs though for the added compactness and portability of a hunting setup. 😎
@@barebowbasics Thanks, ill be getting 70 inch Recurve bow set up for hunting, Win & Win are the bows I am looking at right now, do you recommend any other common Brands?
Any of the major brands are just fine for hunting duty. Hunting is generally outside the scope of this channel’s discussion, but I’ll ask one last question/make one last suggestion; how will you be hunting? If you plan to stalk, 70” AMO is certainly doable. If you plan to sit via tree stand or ground blind, consider going down in riser size a little bit… A 21” riser will suffice nicely for those roles by bringing the AMO down to 66”, which is way more manageable in confined quarters. Even if you only go down to a 23” riser, the two inch drop will still be helpful; nothing ruins a hunt more than banging your lower limb tip on a log, branch or the blind right before the moment of truth and spooking the deer…😅
@@barebowbasics ill be hunting at 3am, basically at night in North Queensland, Australia. With a green light attached. I was going to get the Satori riser, but am considering just getting the Win & Win cx7 riser. Seems like a big upgrade.
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Great videos! I've decided to stick with mid level gear and put the arrows through it.....I realized it's been the shooter holding me back!
...these are really good videos...every word is useful information...no babbling on and on... just what you need to know, and why you need to know it...
I am new to archery, started about a month ago. I am finding your videos helpful to learn more details about form and tools when upgrading my bow in the future.
Since coming into archery I don't know what a lot of the terms such as "raising the risers mark" as an example. I did figure it out through out the video but as a future video maybe you could cover some of the more common terms meanings?
Thank you for your work!
Thank you for your channel. You are a gifted speaker, and you have organized the material so that it is easy to follow, and you focus on the essentials with reasonable recommendations.
I got my shirt order and was touched that you included the note and stickers. Thank you so much!
Excellent video my friend. But, one of the problems with archery is the availability to try different limbs, risers and setups. That said, we all must endure the journey.
Great content, Barebow Archery needs more love.
Excellent video. Glad I found your channel. New subscriber.
Good solid content... thanks for the tips.
Very informative and helpful. Hope you make more content like this. Thanks!
Really enjoying your videos. Really helping me understand the equipment and work on form. Keep them coming.
More set up vids would be good
Well done !
Thank you Coach now as you can tell from the following statement I am a new one I had since starting archery limbs made out of bamboo/fibre materials and as I increased my poundage I now use maple wood/fibre. And there is a difference more stiff, more powerful at the same poundage and a nice snappy strong shot.
Thank you for the great content, explained perfectly!
Coach! 🫡
Maybe worth pointing out that there are target and hunting limbs.
In the early part of my archery journey I did not like the intense graphics on target limbs and bought less decorated hunting limbs not understanding that those were rated on shorter hunting risers.
Thank You
This was interesting. Newbie question: Why not a riser which is isn't 23-27", but maybe only 5-10"? I'm asking, since knowing a little about wooden bows tells me that there are certain advantages to a bow with a working grip. Thanks.
The optimal balance has gravitated towards a 25” riser for decades for a reason. It gives an efficient amount of working limb geometry while offering numerous weight tuning point options along the length of the riser.
From a competitive stance, going below this length generally is a sacrifice in tuning options; this is why I say often that shorter risers like a 23” are reserved for smaller stature archers who can’t handle a 25” in a stable manner.
As always, you are free to experiment with whatever you like. But as I’ve stated repeatedly before, what I teach is based on the cumulative experience and experimentation of top archers in competitive Barebow. You can be assured that if there was a better approach to setup, they would have all gravitated towards it over the years. Following in their proven footsteps is the fastest way for a beginner to become proficient at competitive Barebow.
@@barebowbasics Thank you very much for your thorough reply. That makes a lot of sense. I'm more interested in traditional bows without all the tuning options you mention. So, thanks to your explanation I now see why a rather long riser in this type of archery makes a lot of sense, while the same might not be the case with a traditional bow.
My point on is about 50 yards with a 36# barebow recurve. As I get older and drop to a 32# pound bow I am 79. How much will my point on change.
Unfortunately, there are simply too many variables involved to predict this, from arrow weight and point weight, to archers draw length, anchor placement and shot execution technique/grip pressure balance. The only way you will know is if you give it a try…
Where to put the limb savers on the limbs?
This is a personal preference decision. Most archers tend to put it on the limb fade; the further past the end of the limb fade, the greater the dampening effect.
So what about the scores when using different limbs?
What about them? They are up to the archer; a different set of limbs is not going to magically give an archer a higher score. This is a truth that many people don’t want to accept.
Well, I am considering use Olympic bows, for hunting. Lucky I watched this video, did not know the shorter limbs are for shorter draw length. They do not mention this on the websites selling the limbs over here in clown world.
Generally yes, shorter limbs for shorter draws. Absolutely true in a competitive setup as you want to build in the most smoothness and forgiveness possible, so a longer draw would want longer limbs.
In a hunting setup, there’s a little leeway, and you can get away with being undersized by one limb size as long as the limb is made well; you will be bending it into a curve that is more intense than its usual intended range so the possibility of stacking (uncomfortable rapid increase in draw weight on the fingers) and increased finger pinch angle exist. These are often acceptable trade offs though for the added compactness and portability of a hunting setup. 😎
@@barebowbasics Thanks, ill be getting 70 inch Recurve bow set up for hunting, Win & Win are the bows I am looking at right now, do you recommend any other common Brands?
Any of the major brands are just fine for hunting duty. Hunting is generally outside the scope of this channel’s discussion, but I’ll ask one last question/make one last suggestion; how will you be hunting? If you plan to stalk, 70” AMO is certainly doable. If you plan to sit via tree stand or ground blind, consider going down in riser size a little bit… A 21” riser will suffice nicely for those roles by bringing the AMO down to 66”, which is way more manageable in confined quarters. Even if you only go down to a 23” riser, the two inch drop will still be helpful; nothing ruins a hunt more than banging your lower limb tip on a log, branch or the blind right before the moment of truth and spooking the deer…😅
@@barebowbasics ill be hunting at 3am, basically at night in North Queensland, Australia. With a green light attached.
I was going to get the Satori riser, but am considering just getting the Win & Win cx7 riser. Seems like a big upgrade.
Nein nicht video -1