Thank you for the comment. Yes i try my best to get to the point in these videos. the subtitles to be fair do allow that and i personally think its easier to pause on a particular bit of text rather than have to rewind multiple times to figure out what was said. Not to mention cutting out the like, subscribe, hit the bell icon, car vertical and ridge wallets nonsense. Everyone knows how youtube works the buttons are down there haha
great video very clear on how to do this as i have replacement one to do tomorrow for wifes car mk3----mechanic said big job-which clearly its not-quoted £75-saved thanks to you keep up the good work and videos on mk2 and 3 thanks
Thanks, best of luck with the repair. Its a bit of a fiddly job, but nothing too bad, the TCE (turbo) is a fair bit more involved as few pipes and the inlet manifold have to come out first.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV job done-wee bit fiddly-followed video to a tee step by step-------everything back as was reset radio code-car running 100%-thanks again as saved me £75 and as laid off due to covid couldnt really afford-thank you
@@chevy790 Great to hear it saved you money, at the moment any job that can be done DIY all helps. A great attitude to have fixing it yourself, beats the ones who comment that it looks too difficult.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV You aint kidding, I'm halfway through and searched up some vids to check just where the second mounting bolt lives. You have made an excellent job of this video compared to many on youtube, your captions are great (I'll even let you off for calling it an alternator half way through). Thanks ever so much, you're a star.
Update - 45 minutes later, (1.2 TCE) I managed to get it off without removing the metal injector rail but it's a little bit tricky. I had trouble getting my cheaper sockets on one of the mounting bolts (13 mm socket wall to thick) but managed with a shortish ring spanner. The right length socket extensions and a short ratchet would have made this easier. I found it helped to unbolt the nearby plastic wiring guide to improve access to the upper mounting bolt. Thanks again. Regarding the bump starting - I really miss living on a road with a decent gradient but I'm also glad to see I'm not the only person who drives around with the bonnet still open.
super helpful, just took out mine and after opening the lower bigger part i noticed the graphite blocks, or what was left of them, were in 1001 pieces and crumbles. rest seems to work so i guess that's why it clicked but wasn't turning. :D
Thanks for the comment Something i never had to deal with on this clio was window issues. I have a video showing the removal of the regulators from a mk2. What sort of wiring issue are you having? The default test is to supply power to the motor directly see if it moves up or down. If it does not it is the motor or jammed regulator, if it does it is perhaps the switch or power supply. Use a multimeter to check for continuity on the switch when pressed but also voltage on the wires coming in. It could be the switch or it could be the wires that run in the rubber duct that carries the wires from the A pillar to the door, over time the opening/closing of the door flexes the wires to the point where they loose their flexibility and break. Hope that helps in some way if you have any questions just shout.
mine starts up stop it..starts up again stop it but will never start up a 3rd time got to bump start it then same thing all over again its doing my head in cant get a mechanic on lock down.....cheers any advice its LHD and im in the countryside
It would be an interesting one to do, although i hope the mild teardown may have shown some of the internals of the starter. I wasn't 100% sure what rebuild kit would have suited this starter and did not want to spend money when there was a good starter available. However i will try and rebuild one in the future with an explanation of the internals.
The 1.2 TCE Turbo? Its the same D4F engine but with a turbo. My cousin has one, it broke down a few weeks back and i had to remove/replace the starter. It is in the same place but is a lot more involved than changing the starter on this naturally aspirated version. I would have done a video but the car needed to be fixed ASAP so did not have time for making a video of it. You have extra pipes from the turbo, the inlet manifold, injector rail to remove. Quite a lot more sensors and pipes to disconnect. It take a bit more time and requires being a bit methodical with storing parts to aid reassembly. Some swear words may be used from time to time.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV cheers thanks. I thought it would be more of a challenge to get to. So would I be able get to it from under the bonnet as I cannot get under neath the car as i am still recovering from a motorbike accident but he needs his car for work.
@@craiglamb0335 Definitely you can get to it all from above Be careful with the pipe coming from the top of the turbo to the intercooler it is plastic and easy to break. Make sure the clips are released and gently remove it. I broke it but plastic welded it back together hard to find second hand. Also keep a magnet to hand. For reassembly you might need an inlet manifold gasket, i reused the old one but sprayed silicone spray on it. Best practice would be to fit a new one but its worth trying to put it back on. Best of luck with the repair and a speedy recovery.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Just what I needed to know mine is the turbo too needing a replacement, guess ill just bump start it to the garage instead of doing it myself. Part cost me 16 pound which is great straight from renbreakers
Well wanted to ask you.. I'm going to buy a renault clio with the 1.2 liter... 75 hp is it a good buy? Considering its a 2000 pound and 120k kilometers? Will this car gonna give me problem in ur opinion
The 1.2 16v is a good engine, if serviced it can pass 200,000 miles with no serious issues. Where are you from, you have mentioned kilometers but the price in pounds? Im just trying to judge weather the price is good for the car, what age and spec is it? What sort of driving are you doing, motorway or mainly short journeys? I personally find the Clio 3 with the 1.2 16v engine to be horrible on the motorway, with a 5 speed gearbox it revs too much, the extra weight of the clio 3 over the clio 2 can be felt with this engine. In general the car is not very refined for long journeys. However on short urban trips it is perfectly acceptable. The modus i have sitting beside the clio is a 1.5 DCI (diesel) a much nicer driving experience in my opinion. The diesel offers amazing fuel economy and low running costs but on the downside it has a DPF which can clog up if the car is used only for short journeys. The Modus as it sits costs me about £2000 for a 2011 75,000 miles on the clock, new timing belt kit and fully serviced.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I'm from Israel,mostly shot ones less than 20 minutes... but sometimes it will be longer.. I don't really need speed car. We have some pretty acceptable 60 hp cars here. And let's not forget our max highway speed is only 110 kmh. The price is 2000 because your not in my currency zone,its 8000 in its,but I can get him down a little more,the full one is a clio mk3 with 120k kilometers I the clock. An extreme model without rear power windows.
@@yossiharush8786 Ah fair enouugh, with mostly short journeys the 1.2 16v is fine. We have a similar speed limit here in Northern Ireland 70mph which is close to 110Kmh, the 5 speed can be a bit loud as the engine is doing over 3000 rpm at that speed. The 1.5 DCI is not much quicker but it is better geared for motorway driving. I am not sure are diesels popular in Israel? However the 1.2 clio should still be reliable.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV well diesels are quite popular in israel,but not really in the superfine segment sadly,because they are too polluting. Most of the work cars here are diesels and some bigger cars. My dads 2019 renualt clio estate got the 1.5 dci. The renault clio is the only one in the segment that has came with a diesel and its only for the estate. Sadly for the mk3 in Israel,only 2 version came. The 1.2 liter manual trans. And the 1.6 litre automatics. Sadly this years manual transmission vehicles are hard to reach here..... as most of the superfine class here are equipped almost as star and with an automatic. Well,I will wait a little bit more before I will buy it... I'm only 18 and I don't feel the need for speed. But what annoys me about this car is that it doesn't got a USB jack,nor a 3.5 mil,but thats what 2k pounds can mostly get for you. Buying an automatic will be cheaper actually... but I really want to drive manual here
mk3 clio 1.2 16v 2008 petrol--------car wouldnt start for wife outside supermarket cookstown on sunday evening--------turn key fully-no crank at all----started on small push---got s/hand from t/met today and was able to change using your video(thanks)-------it was tested in t/met on a battery in front of me-worked----turned key fully on-nothing-----i have a small test lamp and checked power going to permanent spade on starter-power there-i removed green wire and connected lamp to it and neutral on battery terminal and turned key fully on and off as if i was starting car--lamp came on and off- so ignition switch is not faulty im guessing------why is starter not engaging at all?-i also tried a wire between permanent power spade on starter and terminal green wire connects to------nothing--------could earth be faulty-im guessing the starter needs power and earth but im not well up on this-all things in car working--------i found in book-starter relay in box beside battery-i had a few spares so i changed it and a 25 amp solinoid fuse in same box-still nothing------------when starting car-red light that flashes goes solid and then out although i think if immobilizer was fault or key starter should at least crank over-again not sure about this-any advise or ideas very welcome- thanks for videos as well
Sorry only getting to sit down at the computer now, still see a strikethrough line through your comment which made it hard to read on the phone. The starter will get its earth from the engine block, there is a earth wire that connects the body to the gearbox around the gearbox mount. In general on a lot of cars this wire can corrode and break. That might be the cause of your issue. If you are getting a test lamp on the permanant positive and a one to flash when you turn the key it eems like that side of the wiring should be ok. The immobilizer if it was faulty would stop the fuel flow rather than stop the starter.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV wife works cancer centre belfast-needed car urgently-her friend sent mechanic last nite-i wasnt here---came to door 10 mins later-needs motor starter-------he could fit sat at a cost of £90 starter (£45 on ebay with 2 year warrenty)and £50 labour-big job he made out-----shed let him know she said---------followed your advise from earlier-local supply had only very short earth straps-my son in law a spark---he made a lead from 6mm earth wire with 2 lugs---one i attached to neutral battery direct and other to one of the 2 bolts fixing starter-first turn of key it was running-faulty earth as u suggested----wife rang mechanic on loudspeaker----------told him starter working perfectly and car running-he then said hed have found this out at workshop as he couldnt remove starter unless up on lift-which u and i know is untrue-this is how some of u guys get such a bad name but again this video and your advise has saved a lot of cash thanks again for reply
@@chevy790 Happy days you got it sorted. Not sure the removal from below method really works any quicker on the clio, although he may possibly have determined the earth strap was bad. it might have required a new starter to discover the fault.
The 1.5 dci is a much different engine, see the modus videos on this channel. I think from memory i removed the starter when doing the modus timing belt
Really comprehensive video, and shorter than most others at the same time!
Thank you for the comment.
Yes i try my best to get to the point in these videos. the subtitles to be fair do allow that and i personally think its easier to pause on a particular bit of text rather than have to rewind multiple times to figure out what was said.
Not to mention cutting out the like, subscribe, hit the bell icon, car vertical and ridge wallets nonsense. Everyone knows how youtube works the buttons are down there haha
great video very clear on how to do this as i have replacement one to do tomorrow for wifes car mk3----mechanic said big job-which clearly its not-quoted £75-saved thanks to you keep up the good work and videos on mk2 and 3 thanks
Thanks, best of luck with the repair.
Its a bit of a fiddly job, but nothing too bad, the TCE (turbo) is a fair bit more involved as few pipes and the inlet manifold have to come out first.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV job done-wee bit fiddly-followed video to a tee step by step-------everything back as was reset radio code-car running 100%-thanks again as saved me £75 and as laid off due to covid couldnt really afford-thank you
@@chevy790 Great to hear it saved you money, at the moment any job that can be done DIY all helps.
A great attitude to have fixing it yourself, beats the ones who comment that it looks too difficult.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV You aint kidding, I'm halfway through and searched up some vids to check just where the second mounting bolt lives. You have made an excellent job of this video compared to many on youtube, your captions are great (I'll even let you off for calling it an alternator half way through).
Thanks ever so much, you're a star.
Update - 45 minutes later, (1.2 TCE) I managed to get it off without removing the metal injector rail but it's a little bit tricky. I had trouble getting my cheaper sockets on one of the mounting bolts (13 mm socket wall to thick) but managed with a shortish ring spanner. The right length socket extensions and a short ratchet would have made this easier. I found it helped to unbolt the nearby plastic wiring guide to improve access to the upper mounting bolt. Thanks again.
Regarding the bump starting - I really miss living on a road with a decent gradient but I'm also glad to see I'm not the only person who drives around with the bonnet still open.
super helpful, just took out mine and after opening the lower bigger part i noticed the graphite blocks, or what was left of them, were in 1001 pieces and crumbles. rest seems to work so i guess that's why it clicked but wasn't turning. :D
Brilliant straight forward video, thanks. I feel confident doing my own Clio now. Any chance for a passenger side window wiring fault 🤣🤣
Thanks for the comment
Something i never had to deal with on this clio was window issues. I have a video showing the removal of the regulators from a mk2.
What sort of wiring issue are you having?
The default test is to supply power to the motor directly see if it moves up or down. If it does not it is the motor or jammed regulator, if it does it is perhaps the switch or power supply.
Use a multimeter to check for continuity on the switch when pressed but also voltage on the wires coming in. It could be the switch or it could be the wires that run in the rubber duct that carries the wires from the A pillar to the door, over time the opening/closing of the door flexes the wires to the point where they loose their flexibility and break. Hope that helps in some way if you have any questions just shout.
mine starts up stop it..starts up again stop it but will never start up a 3rd time got to bump start it then same thing all over again its doing my head in cant get a mechanic on lock down.....cheers any advice its LHD and im in the countryside
thank you for this video , please if you can show us how to repare a starter and learn about the differents components.
Cheers
It would be an interesting one to do, although i hope the mild teardown may have shown some of the internals of the starter. I wasn't 100% sure what rebuild kit would have suited this starter and did not want to spend money when there was a good starter available. However i will try and rebuild one in the future with an explanation of the internals.
Thank your for this video
Very good video but my Clio is the mk3 1.1 litre turbo do you know if the starter motor is in the same place
The 1.2 TCE Turbo? Its the same D4F engine but with a turbo.
My cousin has one, it broke down a few weeks back and i had to remove/replace the starter. It is in the same place but is a lot more involved than changing the starter on this naturally aspirated version. I would have done a video but the car needed to be fixed ASAP so did not have time for making a video of it.
You have extra pipes from the turbo, the inlet manifold, injector rail to remove. Quite a lot more sensors and pipes to disconnect. It take a bit more time and requires being a bit methodical with storing parts to aid reassembly. Some swear words may be used from time to time.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV cheers thanks. I thought it would be more of a challenge to get to. So would I be able get to it from under the bonnet as I cannot get under neath the car as i am still recovering from a motorbike accident but he needs his car for work.
@@craiglamb0335
Definitely you can get to it all from above
Be careful with the pipe coming from the top of the turbo to the intercooler it is plastic and easy to break. Make sure the clips are released and gently remove it. I broke it but plastic welded it back together hard to find second hand. Also keep a magnet to hand.
For reassembly you might need an inlet manifold gasket, i reused the old one but sprayed silicone spray on it. Best practice would be to fit a new one but its worth trying to put it back on.
Best of luck with the repair and a speedy recovery.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Cheers thanks great advice. Thanks I hope so.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Just what I needed to know mine is the turbo too needing a replacement, guess ill just bump start it to the garage instead of doing it myself. Part cost me 16 pound which is great straight from renbreakers
Well wanted to ask you.. I'm going to buy a renault clio with the 1.2 liter... 75 hp is it a good buy? Considering its a 2000 pound and 120k kilometers? Will this car gonna give me problem in ur opinion
The 1.2 16v is a good engine, if serviced it can pass 200,000 miles with no serious issues.
Where are you from, you have mentioned kilometers but the price in pounds? Im just trying to judge weather the price is good for the car, what age and spec is it?
What sort of driving are you doing, motorway or mainly short journeys? I personally find the Clio 3 with the 1.2 16v engine to be horrible on the motorway, with a 5 speed gearbox it revs too much, the extra weight of the clio 3 over the clio 2 can be felt with this engine. In general the car is not very refined for long journeys. However on short urban trips it is perfectly acceptable.
The modus i have sitting beside the clio is a 1.5 DCI (diesel) a much nicer driving experience in my opinion. The diesel offers amazing fuel economy and low running costs but on the downside it has a DPF which can clog up if the car is used only for short journeys. The Modus as it sits costs me about £2000 for a 2011 75,000 miles on the clock, new timing belt kit and fully serviced.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I'm from Israel,mostly shot ones less than 20 minutes... but sometimes it will be longer.. I don't really need speed car. We have some pretty acceptable 60 hp cars here. And let's not forget our max highway speed is only 110 kmh. The price is 2000 because your not in my currency zone,its 8000 in its,but I can get him down a little more,the full one is a clio mk3 with 120k kilometers I the clock. An extreme model without rear power windows.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV BTW there were no modus in israel
@@yossiharush8786 Ah fair enouugh, with mostly short journeys the 1.2 16v is fine.
We have a similar speed limit here in Northern Ireland 70mph which is close to 110Kmh, the 5 speed can be a bit loud as the engine is doing over 3000 rpm at that speed. The 1.5 DCI is not much quicker but it is better geared for motorway driving. I am not sure are diesels popular in Israel?
However the 1.2 clio should still be reliable.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV well diesels are quite popular in israel,but not really in the superfine segment sadly,because they are too polluting. Most of the work cars here are diesels and some bigger cars. My dads 2019 renualt clio estate got the 1.5 dci. The renault clio is the only one in the segment that has came with a diesel and its only for the estate. Sadly for the mk3 in Israel,only 2 version came. The 1.2 liter manual trans. And the 1.6 litre automatics. Sadly this years manual transmission vehicles are hard to reach here..... as most of the superfine class here are equipped almost as star and with an automatic. Well,I will wait a little bit more before I will buy it... I'm only 18 and I don't feel the need for speed. But what annoys me about this car is that it doesn't got a USB jack,nor a 3.5 mil,but thats what 2k pounds can mostly get for you. Buying an automatic will be cheaper actually... but I really want to drive manual here
mk3 clio 1.2 16v 2008 petrol--------car wouldnt start for wife outside supermarket cookstown on sunday evening--------turn key fully-no crank at all----started on small push---got s/hand from t/met today and was able to change using your video(thanks)-------it was tested in t/met on a battery in front of me-worked----turned key fully on-nothing-----i have a small test lamp and checked power going to permanent spade on starter-power there-i removed green wire and connected lamp to it and neutral on battery terminal and turned key fully on and off as if i was starting car--lamp came on and off- so ignition switch is not faulty im guessing------why is starter not engaging at all?-i also tried a wire between permanent power spade on starter and terminal green wire connects to------nothing--------could earth be faulty-im guessing the starter needs power and earth but im not well up on this-all things in car working--------i found in book-starter relay in box beside battery-i had a few spares so i changed it and a 25 amp solinoid fuse in same box-still nothing------------when starting car-red light that flashes goes solid and then out although i think if immobilizer was fault or key starter should at least crank over-again not sure about this-any advise or ideas very welcome- thanks for videos as well
Hi, why is there a line through the text?
Sorry only getting to sit down at the computer now, still see a strikethrough line through your comment which made it hard to read on the phone.
The starter will get its earth from the engine block, there is a earth wire that connects the body to the gearbox around the gearbox mount. In general on a lot of cars this wire can corrode and break. That might be the cause of your issue. If you are getting a test lamp on the permanant positive and a one to flash when you turn the key it eems like that side of the wiring should be ok. The immobilizer if it was faulty would stop the fuel flow rather than stop the starter.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV wife works cancer centre belfast-needed car urgently-her friend sent mechanic last nite-i wasnt here---came to door 10 mins later-needs motor starter-------he could fit sat at a cost of £90 starter (£45 on ebay with 2 year warrenty)and £50 labour-big job he made out-----shed let him know she said---------followed your advise from earlier-local supply had only very short earth straps-my son in law a spark---he made a lead from 6mm earth wire with 2 lugs---one i attached to neutral battery direct and other to one of the 2 bolts fixing starter-first turn of key it was running-faulty earth as u suggested----wife rang mechanic on loudspeaker----------told him starter working perfectly and car running-he then said hed have found this out at workshop as he couldnt remove starter unless up on lift-which u and i know is untrue-this is how some of u guys get such a bad name but again this video and your advise has saved a lot of cash thanks again for reply
@@chevy790
Happy days you got it sorted.
Not sure the removal from below method really works any quicker on the clio, although he may possibly have determined the earth strap was bad. it might have required a new starter to discover the fault.
Gonna do this to my laguna 3 1.5dci.
Any difference to what you did?
The 1.5 dci is a much different engine, see the modus videos on this channel. I think from memory i removed the starter when doing the modus timing belt
sorry i have no idea what caused this-i just typed as normal and noticed it when it came up-sorry about that
.