You asked me to comment, so I'm going to comment. Since news papers no longer available, every Sunday sit and drink my coffee and watch your vids. Very relaxing and a great start to my day. Keep it up friend.
Now that is why You Tube is useful. On a separate note, after the age of 50, the Mk1 eyeball can no longer be relied app-on as an accurate unit of measurement.
Good job! It’s enjoyable watching head scratching videos. I was going to call my friend as he use to be a Land Rover mechanic and would rebuild ex-military gearboxes for Craddocks in his garage. He’s retired now but still does gearbox rebuilds for friends. You remind me of him! 🙂👍
Back in 1989 landrover in there wisdom unified there gear oil to mtf from atf dex3 and it caused masive syncro problems (3 piece type ) dealers had to rebuild the r380s which had bad syncros and go back onto dex3 ,the syncros were designed only for dex3, great video mike 👍
I don't know if it's relevant but last year I had a R380 gearbox and transfer box rebuilt by Ashcroft and it occasionally jumped out of 1st gear when no first fitted i t, the change quality was poor in every gear as well. I contacted Dave at Ashcroft and he said it was more than likely a minute high spot on the syncro that was occasionally stopping it engaging in one orientation. He asked me to persevere with it for a thousand miles or so which I did. I found pressing the lever twice stopped it jumping out, after about 1k miles it stopped jumping out of gear and the change quality has really improved, it's as smooth as silk in all gears now, I have done 3k miles.
My brand new 2013 Defender had a notchy change from first to second straight out of the showroom. Land Rover assessed it for me under warranty and the tech said it was operating within normal parameters! ie, he expected the change to be notchy from first to second as they were all like that. I eventually went with an Ashcroft Auto conversion which David did for me in Luton.
Hi Mike. What an excellent topic to investigate. I'm on the same boat as everyone, as for shifting from 1st to 2nd it almost allways "clicks". I've tried a small pause between 1 and 2, double declutch and shifting at a higher rpm. The pause and double declutch worked more or less ok, but at the expense of momentum, shifting at a higher rpm does the trick. I know that there is some wear in my box, but it is not a good time to spend a bunch of cash rebuilding it. Disco 1 300tdi r380 suffix J (iirc) As always thanks for sharing with us all your expertise. Cheers
I've heard of large fly wheels growling but not clunking. I hope you have as good of a time as I do with fault isolation problems. Thank you for the update to this mystery.
You are the man,my 4bd1t has a lt85 and same problem, l welded the wear on second gear fork and had to adjust the fork on the shaft. l noticed once you have done the adjustments on all the forks,check that it locks into the gears nicely. l learnt the the hard way and had to take the cover back off to adjust second gear.
It does not take much! I have an idea the 'feeling' not grinding into gear is the teeth pulling the hub into place due to the tapered tooth pattern. Tomorrow I will put this to the test and assemble the shaft and forks in the box housing without the detent springs and observe the position of the forks when shifting
How was the wear where the selector rail pin interfaces with the selector fork? I have a suffix J one apart at the moment as 2nd gear selection was a bit of an iffy after a rebuild (I'd never used it before rebuild as it had a knackered mainshaft spline). During the rebuild I'd checked where the fork interfaces with the synchro hub and that was within spec. Now that I have it apart again I've noticed the selector rail pin has worn a lot of the fork and the pin doesn't engage with much of the fork. I'm going to replace the fork and setup more protrusion of the selector pin to better interface with the fork
That would explain why my gearbox works ok if I change 1st to 2nd with a soft movement and it will be harsh if I push the gear lever to the left. And in fact our cars vibrate quite a bit and that will also wear the fork. I have an old LT77 to fix and I will have a close look at that. Great job
Even if the fork pads are worn on the 2nd gear side, that can't be the reason why it can be noisy going "into" 2nd or can it? I mean if the noise is from when your trying to get 2nd I can't see it being the fork but if it was jumping out of gear, then I would buy that for an answer as it's not fully engaged. Mike I like your thought process, you've now given me some food for thought. I'm off to think, thank you Mike!
I have a feeling the teeth in the synchro are not fully engaging and the clicking feeling (it is not a grinding noise) is the synchro hub being pulled into the gear
if the fork pads are worn the selector wont move the hub far enough forward, the dog teeth on the hub wont be fully engaged on the teeth on the gear effectively your asking the detent spring to complete the process
Every shiftring has burrs after a usefull life of work but there had been no issues to get into second gear before. After the entire replacement of what the Ashcroft Master Rebuild Kit offers, sometimes I get the response with the second gear issue. And always it's gone when the gearbox gets it temperature. Sometimes an oil change to ATF III change the issue to a better one , sometimes not. It's a bug I guess.
@@BritannicaRestorations The last one is fitted to an 130 tdi. It's been driving for vacations now. I let you know how the owner is satisfight or even not. But I'm sure the reson why it doesn't shift is not located by the fork or the burrs inside the shifting ring. But I have absolutely no solution for this issue. .
Hi Mike, Interesting, my experience ( have a disco 1 td300 manual nearly 700,000 kms) my seating position doesn't allow the clutch to be fully disengaged by about an inch, second gear issues, if i take my time and fully disengage the clutch bingo no issue. Is it time or the clutch disengaging fully or both? Had a truck gearbox a where i had to build up the selector fork so there was little or no clearence, bugger of a job as i had to keep the fork square to the selector ring aswell, never again new parts next time. Well no next time. Also I have to do the gasket between the timing belt housing and the block and new timimg belt any advise would be appreciated. Many thanks for your videos, Lyndon
I think the pause between shifts is important Nothing really noteworthy on the front cover, but remember you have to remove the sump in order to get the pick up pipe off
Thanks for the reply very little oil rain as I have drained it well. The sump bolts are bloody tight nearly rounded a couple off with a single hex socket. Envy your workshop facilities and connections. With a stuffed back doing it on the ground as an in chassis is hard but eventually the old girl will be going again. Love your content in the videos very informative Cheers Lyndon (other end of the world in Tasmania).
My td5 gearbox has a similar issue in second. I remedied this fault by putting penrite DX-111 automatic transmission fluid in the gearbox. I also did this to my puma and it made that crappy 6 speed way better at selecting gears
im interested in how your remedy has been last year. I'm having same problems with second and looking at alternative options before forking out expense for repairs. any advice would be appreciated.
@@matthewburgess5034 the issue is still there to a degree, but i think its alot better than it used to me. And 2nd syncros have stopped producing meterial now so it seems to be good for now
You asked me to comment, so I'm going to comment.
Since news papers no longer available, every Sunday sit and drink my coffee and watch your vids. Very relaxing and a great start to my day.
Keep it up friend.
Thank you! I appreciate that. I hate videos they plead for subscribers etc, so that little discrete insert seems to do the job!
Now that is why You Tube is useful.
On a separate note, after the age of 50, the Mk1 eyeball can no longer be relied app-on as an accurate unit of measurement.
It would be interesting to hear Dave Ashcroft's thoughts on the matter.
Who’s Dave Ashof?
Good job! It’s enjoyable watching head scratching videos.
I was going to call my friend as he use to be a Land Rover mechanic and would rebuild ex-military gearboxes for Craddocks in his garage. He’s retired now but still does gearbox rebuilds for friends. You remind me of him! 🙂👍
Sounds great!
I tried explaining to my Mrs why it’s not good to use gear stick as a hand rest. I saw her eyes glaze over when I mentioned dogs and syncromesh …
Back in 1989 landrover in there wisdom unified there gear oil to mtf from atf dex3 and it caused masive syncro problems (3 piece type ) dealers had to rebuild the r380s which had bad syncros and go back onto dex3 ,the syncros were designed only for dex3, great video mike 👍
Yeap - tried all sorts of oil and Dex3 is the one for me
I don't know if it's relevant but last year I had a R380 gearbox and transfer box rebuilt by Ashcroft and it occasionally jumped out of 1st gear when no first fitted i t, the change quality was poor in every gear as well. I contacted Dave at Ashcroft and he said it was more than likely a minute high spot on the syncro that was occasionally stopping it engaging in one orientation. He asked me to persevere with it for a thousand miles or so which I did. I found pressing the lever twice stopped it jumping out, after about 1k miles it stopped jumping out of gear and the change quality has really improved, it's as smooth as silk in all gears now, I have done 3k miles.
Interesting -- the issue with the second gear is it is not jumping out - just difficult to engage
Thanks for your reply!
Good piece of investigative work there Mike. Worth stripping down the box and buying the parts.
It was an expensive way of finding out the problem, but the parts will not go to waste
Fascinating!!
My brand new 2013 Defender had a notchy change from first to second straight out of the showroom. Land Rover assessed it for me under warranty and the tech said it was operating within normal parameters! ie, he expected the change to be notchy from first to second as they were all like that. I eventually went with an Ashcroft Auto conversion which David did for me in Luton.
Shocking what they get away with - would never come out of a Toyota factory like that (well not in the old days)
Hi Mike.
What an excellent topic to investigate.
I'm on the same boat as everyone, as for shifting from 1st to 2nd it almost allways "clicks". I've tried a small pause between 1 and 2, double declutch and shifting at a higher rpm.
The pause and double declutch worked more or less ok, but at the expense of momentum, shifting at a higher rpm does the trick.
I know that there is some wear in my box, but it is not a good time to spend a bunch of cash rebuilding it.
Disco 1 300tdi r380 suffix J (iirc)
As always thanks for sharing with us all your expertise.
Cheers
Yes I agree - why is it that there are some that are great - like in my Isuzu, and some that are awful, despite an expensive rebuild?
Thanks for the video. Very interesting.
Hi from Kent in the Uk
Glad you enjoyed it
I've heard of large fly wheels growling but not clunking.
I hope you have as good of a time as I do with fault isolation problems.
Thank you for the update to this mystery.
You are the man,my 4bd1t has a lt85 and same problem, l welded the wear on second gear fork and had to adjust the fork on the shaft. l noticed once you have done the adjustments on all the forks,check that it locks into the gears nicely. l learnt the the hard way and had to take the cover back off to adjust second gear.
It does not take much! I have an idea the 'feeling' not grinding into gear is the teeth pulling the hub into place due to the tapered tooth pattern.
Tomorrow I will put this to the test and assemble the shaft and forks in the box housing without the detent springs and observe the position of the forks when shifting
How was the wear where the selector rail pin interfaces with the selector fork?
I have a suffix J one apart at the moment as 2nd gear selection was a bit of an iffy after a rebuild (I'd never used it before rebuild as it had a knackered mainshaft spline). During the rebuild I'd checked where the fork interfaces with the synchro hub and that was within spec. Now that I have it apart again I've noticed the selector rail pin has worn a lot of the fork and the pin doesn't engage with much of the fork. I'm going to replace the fork and setup more protrusion of the selector pin to better interface with the fork
That would explain why my gearbox works ok if I change 1st to 2nd with a soft movement and it will be harsh if I push the gear lever to the left. And in fact our cars vibrate quite a bit and that will also wear the fork. I have an old LT77 to fix and I will have a close look at that. Great job
Thanks!
Awesome community here Mike!
Cheers for sharing.
The best!
Even if the fork pads are worn on the 2nd gear side, that can't be the reason why it can be noisy going "into" 2nd or can it? I mean if the noise is from when your trying to get 2nd I can't see it being the fork but if it was jumping out of gear, then I would buy that for an answer as it's not fully engaged. Mike I like your thought process, you've now given me some food for thought. I'm off to think, thank you Mike!
I have a feeling the teeth in the synchro are not fully engaging and the clicking feeling (it is not a grinding noise) is the synchro hub being pulled into the gear
if the fork pads are worn the selector wont move the hub far enough forward, the dog teeth on the hub wont be fully engaged on the teeth on the gear effectively your asking the detent spring to complete the process
Very good.
Thank you! Cheers!
Every shiftring has burrs after a usefull life of work but there had been no issues to get into second gear before. After the entire replacement of what the Ashcroft Master Rebuild Kit offers, sometimes I get the response with the second gear issue. And always it's gone when the gearbox gets it temperature. Sometimes an oil change to ATF III change the issue to a better one , sometimes not. It's a bug I guess.
I did over 300Km with this box hot and cold - oil changed 3 times from ATF to Redline ($$$) and something else, always the same
@@BritannicaRestorations The last one is fitted to an 130 tdi. It's been driving for vacations now. I let you know how the owner is satisfight or even not. But I'm sure the reson why it doesn't shift is not located by the fork or the burrs inside the shifting ring. But I have absolutely no solution for this issue. .
Tiged many of them Mike, for a trans company...seems to work, metal on..machine off..
What did you use as filler material?
@@erik_dk842 used to use silicone bronze rods.
Size really does matter Mike, an extra 0.4mm would see me almost doubling in size....🤣
Bragging again!?
@@BritannicaRestorations. lmfao 😂😂😂
does it matter if there's no running clearance?
Hi Mike,
Interesting, my experience ( have a disco 1 td300 manual nearly 700,000 kms) my seating position doesn't allow the clutch to be fully disengaged by about an inch, second gear issues, if i take my time and fully disengage the clutch bingo no issue. Is it time or the clutch disengaging fully or both?
Had a truck gearbox a where i had to build up the selector fork so there was little or no clearence, bugger of a job as i had to keep the fork square to the selector ring aswell, never again new parts next time. Well no next time.
Also I have to do the gasket between the timing belt housing and the block and new timimg belt any advise would be appreciated.
Many thanks for your videos,
Lyndon
I think the pause between shifts is important
Nothing really noteworthy on the front cover, but remember you have to remove the sump in order to get the pick up pipe off
Thanks have noted that from your video that only difference is Im doing it in chassis.
Lyndon
Drain the oil a day or two before the job, or it will be a constant rain of oil when taking the sump off!
Thanks for the reply very little oil rain as I have drained it well. The sump bolts are bloody tight nearly rounded a couple off with a single hex socket. Envy your workshop facilities and connections. With a stuffed back doing it on the ground as an in chassis is hard but eventually the old girl will be going again. Love your content in the videos very informative
Cheers Lyndon (other end of the world in Tasmania).
Could the fork be worn because of using gl5 oil?
Don't think so as all the brass parts would be worn
But U messured them, they all had been in Toleranz, to the manual
My td5 gearbox has a similar issue in second.
I remedied this fault by putting penrite DX-111 automatic transmission fluid in the gearbox.
I also did this to my puma and it made that crappy 6 speed way better at selecting gears
im interested in how your remedy has been last year. I'm having same problems with second and looking at alternative options before forking out expense for repairs. any advice would be appreciated.
@@matthewburgess5034 the issue is still there to a degree, but i think its alot better than it used to me. And 2nd syncros have stopped producing meterial now so it seems to be good for now