Also worth mentioning that the older 16 valve unit had a DPF which required an Eolys fluid tank. Can be a major pain in the arse and needs topping up or replacing every 60,000 or so. I know this because my mums 2010 Volvo V50 1.6 DRIVe has that setup, and I was so annoyed to find out that the better 8 valve engine came on 2011 models. Mind you, it is sorted now and its a nice quiet engine and very economical, but I do like diesel engines with as little to go wrong as possible. I just hired a Citroen C3 with the 1.5 on holiday recently, thats a really nice engine. Probably the last Pug diesel engine we will ever see?.
Hi there, The later 8v engine also has the Eolys fluid tank, i have two cousins driving this era of 308 and a C4 now after this berlingo got written off with the 8v engine. Refilled the Eolys in my cousins cars, the C4 is now at 140k but has not asked for it yet. The motor factors stock a bottle of JLM (if i recall correctly) fluid it was about £50 if i recall correctly. Didn't seem too bad. I have read stories of the later iterations with adblue requiring new adblue pumps which can cost in excess of £800, although not sure what exists in terms of aftermarket options. £800 for a simple pump is a joke. The old 1.6 16v engine is okay if you service it regularly they can cover well over 200k. They just dont withstand lack of maintenance. My uncle has a new Berlingo with the 1.5, its very similar to this 1.6 engine. It seems like they are phasing out diesels. The new C5 X for example does not get it which is a shame as they seem far hardier engines than the likes of the puretech 1.2 (timing belt in the oil sounds great) or the old prince derived 1.6, but they are getting clambered with more emissions gubbins.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Oh right, sorry my bad, I just assumed all of the 8v 1.6 diesels got rid of the eolys system. I think Volvo and Ford did atleast change to a conventional dry DPF. I guess it's not necessarily a bad system and like you say it isn't too costly to service due to aftermarket eolys alternatives. It's just me and my family only buy used cars and it's hard enough to trust the general British public or even mechanics to do an oil change. Let alone have them service a proprietary eolys fluid system that many do not understand or care about. Maybe on the continent it's different?. Cars do seem to get bashed about alot in France and Southern and Eastern Europe, but then again you do see many older models still being used, so they must take care of the fundamental mechanicals. I just miss the old hardy diesels, my dad just recently bought a 2010 E class estate E350cdi only to have the oil pump fail (probably because of oil sludge, even though it had a fresh oil change) and destroy the engine after one week of ownership. Thankfully we are getting our money back, but it has been heartbreaking to see the best car we are ever likely to have end up as a lump of metal. All because of overly complicated design that is unforgiving of any lack of maintenance. On any future purchase we will be sure to get the sump dropped and oil pickup screen cleaned. And it's a crying shame that now they only fit these over complicated over stressed tiny petrols or hybrids or ev that will be scrapped early due to kaput batteries. But apparently that's greener than a perfected diesel engine with all manner of emissions devices fitted.
If you want to take a chance on using the primer button alone, at 12:35m maybe syringe some fuel into those pipe stubs to flood out some more air - Possible?
Personally i fill it with a funnel and a hose, put the diesel into the filter by the middle hose that goes inside the filter. Give it like a liter or so till u can hear the diesel going back to the tank, then give it a coupe pumps with the primer. Then it starts first time and i personally like to hold the revs a little bit in 2000rpm a minute or so. After strugling when changing it for the first time in the rain lol, i dont trust the primer anymore
i am glad my infilter primer pump works fine, safes alot of hassle, why did you remove the undertray? there is a large enough opening to drain the engine oil and even the gear oil :)
The undertray was removed as it appeared necessary, from memory i dont think the drain hole on the sump is directly above it. Its a good opportunity with it off to inspect the rest of the drivetrain for any leaks, split boots, damaged hoses etc. In general i also have to make this a video that can be followed, with the undertray removed the camera can get a good clear view of what is happening which is much preferable to a hand going in through a gap to remove a hard to see fixing.
Great video, will be coming in useful very soon. What mileage do you recommend changing the cambelt? My 64 reg Berlingo has done 62k, cambelt looks good. Can still see the writing clearly and no splits or cracks in the belt. Thanks
Great video and although useful for me I didn’t realise there was such a significant change in the engine between the 2010 and 2011 Berlingos. The car I’m working on is a 2010 90bhp/66kW engine. This is the DV6TED4 or 9HX engine. I guess that is the 16V design. I wonder what weaknesses there are in that engine that you say the 8V version eliminated. btw I didn’t catch the air pollen filter replacement in the video. Did you miss it out. No worries I’ve seen that elsewhere.
I have a separate video covering the 16v engine albeit in a 307 The 8v was supposed to have resolved the issues related to the turbos blowing that the earliest 16v engines were notorious for, its also a simpler valvetrain Although a well serviced 16v engine will run fine.
Thanks for that. So far no problems with the turbo although the servicing history has been less than perfect. I’m thinking of replacing the timing belt and water pump and your video for that is great. Wondering if there are any material differences to that job on my car. I already found that the parts differ. Your car I believe has a 141 tooth timing belt and mine has 137 teeth.
Hi there, the wee and forgive the engineering term "stickey outey bit" goes into the hole at the bottom of the oil filter housing, i like to push the plastic lid part down into the housing to get them to line up first then start tightening it. I think there is some fancy design work happening there so it ends up in the right position anyhow. Main thing is to avoid the sound of plastic snapping.
ruclips.net/video/toTKvACZiDE/видео.html At 10:00 and possibly other points of the video there is a close up of the belt. I would describe the profile as possibly a trapezoid rather than oval or round. Have a look at that video and decide for yourself. I just ask in the motorfactors for the belt. They will supply the correct kit based on its registration.
I will be honest and say i dont know, never went that deep into these engined to be able to say if they can or not. Never had leaky valve stem seals for it to be an issue, the turbos on the older 16v engines were more prone to letting oil into the system. There probably is pneumatic tools that can hold the valve up as the stem seal is replaced though.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV i’ve tried looking but there’s nothing it looks like a fiddly thing to do,see i’m an apprentice so don’t want to go in about my own car and mess anything up
What part of the video is this, i never really covered the injectors in this video, they are under a cover so cant remember even showing them on the video.
It's recommended to change first oil filter because MAHLE pin element allows to drain oil in the lubrication circuit. ruclips.net/video/qvsfj8v-FYQ/видео.html Oil remains in PSA engine oil sumps ruclips.net/video/zTK_eikQjRk/видео.html To check DPF regen I'd install a led. While driving 3 min every 820 km If your fuel filter housing pump doesn't work you need to replace it 1901 97 or if it's hard when pushing it, lubricate with vaseline grease or silicone grease with PTFE.
You said "Hi sir, can you tell me dvp is that the hdi 1.6 engine on citroen berlingo is good??" Sorry i had to put that through google translate The 1.6 diesels are generally good, earlier 16v engines were the ones that had the reputation for blowing turbos but if serviced they can clock up big miles. The later 8v 1.6 seems to have less issues in that regard, but again just be sure it has been regularly serviced. The injectors on the 115hp engine are continental which are more fragile and slighly more expensive to replace than the bosch ones fitted to the lower power offerings. However having driven the 115hp version the lower power versions seem a bit too down on power.
Around 2014 PSA changed their recommenced oil from a low saps 5w30 to a 0w30. I'd check your handbook to see if it is Total Quartz Ineo First 0w30 or Total Quartz ECS 5w30
@@youbencowell The handbook of this berlingo recommends the total quartz 5w30. Although with it being over 10 years old now i went for the conveinience of buying the mannol stuff from the local motor factors. Total oil has to be ordered from opie oils as nowhere local sells it. Although i would agree with what ben says double check your handbook.
I do not see the relevance to this question. Happy to help or have a sensible discussion if it pertains to the vehicle or engine covered in the video but not about face masks.
Step by step with full description 👌. Thankyou so much. Very professional and clean job.
Thank you for the comment, glad the video helped.
Superb content, love the detail. I've been waiting for this to drop! as going to give my Ds3 a service soon.
Thanks for the comment, best of luck with the DS3 service. Cracking wee cars, my cousin recently got one great fun to drive, didnt dip below 60mpg.
Just subscribed 💥👏 your video’s are fantastic thanks for taking the time to share them
Regards Eric
Thanks for subscribing, great to read you find the videos useful.
thanks for sharing brother !!
great video
Thanks for the comment
Also worth mentioning that the older 16 valve unit had a DPF which required an Eolys fluid tank. Can be a major pain in the arse and needs topping up or replacing every 60,000 or so. I know this because my mums 2010 Volvo V50 1.6 DRIVe has that setup, and I was so annoyed to find out that the better 8 valve engine came on 2011 models.
Mind you, it is sorted now and its a nice quiet engine and very economical, but I do like diesel engines with as little to go wrong as possible. I just hired a Citroen C3 with the 1.5 on holiday recently, thats a really nice engine. Probably the last Pug diesel engine we will ever see?.
Hi there,
The later 8v engine also has the Eolys fluid tank, i have two cousins driving this era of 308 and a C4 now after this berlingo got written off with the 8v engine. Refilled the Eolys in my cousins cars, the C4 is now at 140k but has not asked for it yet. The motor factors stock a bottle of JLM (if i recall correctly) fluid it was about £50 if i recall correctly. Didn't seem too bad. I have read stories of the later iterations with adblue requiring new adblue pumps which can cost in excess of £800, although not sure what exists in terms of aftermarket options. £800 for a simple pump is a joke.
The old 1.6 16v engine is okay if you service it regularly they can cover well over 200k. They just dont withstand lack of maintenance.
My uncle has a new Berlingo with the 1.5, its very similar to this 1.6 engine. It seems like they are phasing out diesels. The new C5 X for example does not get it which is a shame as they seem far hardier engines than the likes of the puretech 1.2 (timing belt in the oil sounds great) or the old prince derived 1.6, but they are getting clambered with more emissions gubbins.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Oh right, sorry my bad, I just assumed all of the 8v 1.6 diesels got rid of the eolys system. I think Volvo and Ford did atleast change to a conventional dry DPF.
I guess it's not necessarily a bad system and like you say it isn't too costly to service due to aftermarket eolys alternatives. It's just me and my family only buy used cars and it's hard enough to trust the general British public or even mechanics to do an oil change. Let alone have them service a proprietary eolys fluid system that many do not understand or care about.
Maybe on the continent it's different?. Cars do seem to get bashed about alot in France and Southern and Eastern Europe, but then again you do see many older models still being used, so they must take care of the fundamental mechanicals.
I just miss the old hardy diesels, my dad just recently bought a 2010 E class estate E350cdi only to have the oil pump fail (probably because of oil sludge, even though it had a fresh oil change) and destroy the engine after one week of ownership.
Thankfully we are getting our money back, but it has been heartbreaking to see the best car we are ever likely to have end up as a lump of metal. All because of overly complicated design that is unforgiving of any lack of maintenance. On any future purchase we will be sure to get the sump dropped and oil pickup screen cleaned.
And it's a crying shame that now they only fit these over complicated over stressed tiny petrols or hybrids or ev that will be scrapped early due to kaput batteries. But apparently that's greener than a perfected diesel engine with all manner of emissions devices fitted.
If you want to take a chance on using the primer button alone, at 12:35m maybe syringe some fuel into those pipe stubs to flood out some more air - Possible?
You mentioned the pollen (cabin filter) change but it wasn't in the video. Easy to do?
Personally i fill it with a funnel and a hose, put the diesel into the filter by the middle hose that goes inside the filter. Give it like a liter or so till u can hear the diesel going back to the tank, then give it a coupe pumps with the primer. Then it starts first time and i personally like to hold the revs a little bit in 2000rpm a minute or so.
After strugling when changing it for the first time in the rain lol, i dont trust the primer anymore
Yes filling it up can save a fair bit of time.
i am glad my infilter primer pump works fine, safes alot of hassle, why did you remove the undertray? there is a large enough opening to drain the engine oil and even the gear oil :)
The undertray was removed as it appeared necessary, from memory i dont think the drain hole on the sump is directly above it. Its a good opportunity with it off to inspect the rest of the drivetrain for any leaks, split boots, damaged hoses etc. In general i also have to make this a video that can be followed, with the undertray removed the camera can get a good clear view of what is happening which is much preferable to a hand going in through a gap to remove a hard to see fixing.
Great video, will be coming in useful very soon. What mileage do you recommend changing the cambelt?
My 64 reg Berlingo has done 62k, cambelt looks good. Can still see the writing clearly and no splits or cracks in the belt.
Thanks
The cambelt interval on these engines is 120k miles or 10 years.
I have changed the cambelt on this engine, the video is still in the editing stage.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for the reply. Will be good to see how its done.
At just under 60K my cambelt was stretched although it looked nearly new-check what the tensioner is telling you.
Great video and although useful for me I didn’t realise there was such a significant change in the engine between the 2010 and 2011 Berlingos. The car I’m working on is a 2010 90bhp/66kW engine. This is the DV6TED4 or 9HX engine. I guess that is the 16V design. I wonder what weaknesses there are in that engine that you say the 8V version eliminated.
btw I didn’t catch the air pollen filter replacement in the video. Did you miss it out. No worries I’ve seen that elsewhere.
I have a separate video covering the 16v engine albeit in a 307
The 8v was supposed to have resolved the issues related to the turbos blowing that the earliest 16v engines were notorious for, its also a simpler valvetrain
Although a well serviced 16v engine will run fine.
Thanks for that. So far no problems with the turbo although the servicing history has been less than perfect. I’m thinking of replacing the timing belt and water pump and your video for that is great. Wondering if there are any material differences to that job on my car. I already found that the parts differ. Your car I believe has a 141 tooth timing belt and mine has 137 teeth.
Couldn’t find that 307 video…do you have a link? Thanks
@@tsb3093 Hi, this is the video
ruclips.net/video/4Jikv53X340/видео.html
Daft question, can the oil filter only seat in one position? I.e. the locating tab/spigot will only fit into the drain hole in the housing ?
Hi there, the wee and forgive the engineering term "stickey outey bit" goes into the hole at the bottom of the oil filter housing, i like to push the plastic lid part down into the housing to get them to line up first then start tightening it. I think there is some fancy design work happening there so it ends up in the right position anyhow. Main thing is to avoid the sound of plastic snapping.
Are the timing belts oval or round profile teeth for these engines? Cheers
ruclips.net/video/toTKvACZiDE/видео.html
At 10:00 and possibly other points of the video there is a close up of the belt. I would describe the profile as possibly a trapezoid rather than oval or round. Have a look at that video and decide for yourself. I just ask in the motorfactors for the belt. They will supply the correct kit based on its registration.
Valve stems can ve replaced without taking the head off?
I will be honest and say i dont know, never went that deep into these engined to be able to say if they can or not. Never had leaky valve stem seals for it to be an issue, the turbos on the older 16v engines were more prone to letting oil into the system.
There probably is pneumatic tools that can hold the valve up as the stem seal is replaced though.
Isn't it the same if I buy diesel from petrol station on a bottle and just fill the fuel filter?
Its worth a try, i just like to make sure there is no air in the line from the tank to the filter housing.
on a renault clio mk3 1.5dci i don’t know if you’ve ever done a turbo if you have what like a job is it?
I have not had to do one yet, might be a bit fiddly but i think there should be information about on how to change them.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV i’ve tried looking but there’s nothing it looks like a fiddly thing to do,see i’m an apprentice so don’t want to go in about my own car and mess anything up
@@CS12Gaming
Have a look on ebay for pictures or buy a service manual off emanauals online which should detail how to remove the turbo
@@peugeotCitroen2CV cheers mate much appreciated
Sir, why is there oil in the bottoms of the injectors?
What part of the video is this, i never really covered the injectors in this video, they are under a cover so cant remember even showing them on the video.
@@peugeotCitroen2CVThanks anyway buddy
It's recommended to change first oil filter because MAHLE pin element allows to drain oil in the lubrication circuit.
ruclips.net/video/qvsfj8v-FYQ/видео.html
Oil remains in PSA engine oil sumps
ruclips.net/video/zTK_eikQjRk/видео.html
To check DPF regen I'd install a led. While driving 3 min every 820 km
If your fuel filter housing pump doesn't work you need to replace it 1901 97 or if it's hard when pushing it, lubricate with vaseline grease or silicone grease with PTFE.
A solvent-free engine flush every 3-4 engine oil changes is a good idea on these engines due to the high soot generation.
Salut monsieur tu peux me dir dvp est se que se moteur hdi 1.6 sur citroen berlingo est bien??
You said
"Hi sir, can you tell me dvp is that the hdi 1.6 engine on citroen berlingo is good??"
Sorry i had to put that through google translate
The 1.6 diesels are generally good, earlier 16v engines were the ones that had the reputation for blowing turbos but if serviced they can clock up big miles. The later 8v 1.6 seems to have less issues in that regard, but again just be sure it has been regularly serviced. The injectors on the 115hp engine are continental which are more fragile and slighly more expensive to replace than the bosch ones fitted to the lower power offerings. However having driven the 115hp version the lower power versions seem a bit too down on power.
Omg this guy! It literally already has a fuel primer where your hands are and you went and bought one😆🤦🏼♂️
the point that you are missing is that the primer button quite often doesn't work
Hello oil ?? 0w30 ? 5w30 ?
Around 2014 PSA changed their recommenced oil from a low saps 5w30 to a 0w30. I'd check your handbook to see if it is Total Quartz Ineo First 0w30 or Total Quartz ECS 5w30
@@youbencowell The handbook of this berlingo recommends the total quartz 5w30. Although with it being over 10 years old now i went for the conveinience of buying the mannol stuff from the local motor factors. Total oil has to be ordered from opie oils as nowhere local sells it. Although i would agree with what ben says double check your handbook.
Different oils for different variants in different countries.Example -a DV6ETED in the UK can officially use either.
Why are you wearing a face nappy?
I do not see the relevance to this question.
Happy to help or have a sensible discussion if it pertains to the vehicle or engine covered in the video but not about face masks.