I’m coming up on 35 years in construction. When I see “done the right way” on a video it’s usually not. You got it right. To the best of my knowledge you did damn near everything correct. Well done.
What an incredible resource. Easy to follow and straight to the point. This is well in excess of what I need. That being said, I am now equipped to over-engineer a BEASTLY little wall that we won't have to think about for a very long time. Thank you!
I have been a civil engineer for 12 years. Glad to see a video that *actually* shows the correct way to install a Ret. Wall on RUclips. I also have never seen a RUclips video with so many comments from professionals giving praise. Way to kill it, need more professionals like you willing to show/teach people the right way to do these things.
I have a timber retaining wall built as this one was built. I’m concerned, however. The first third of this 40 foot wall is dead level vertically and horizontally. The next third, which is taking the heaviest load, is a full bubble off in both directions. The final third is somewhere between the other two. Rather than calling out a retaining wall company for an opinion, would I hire someone like you, a civil engineer, to evaluate?
Love the hammer drill for rebar trick, thanks! Even if all that crushed limestone may be overkill, to me it looks like a great resource to have stored on the property, and it's out of sight. If there's ever a time you need gravel and it's hard to source or is too expensive you could just dip into the reserves.
Great video. The last video I commented on stating that I'm a licensed structural engineer got nothing but flack from the other comments, so here i go again 😅. I will say everything looks good and the only comments I would add are to make sure you bury the first railroad tie and that you're dead men anchors extend beyond the failure plane of the retaining wall. The purpose of the dead man is to engage earth that does not exert pressure on the retaining wall. I get lost in details and always look at the shear value of the fasteners in the deadman anchor connection to make sure that dead man anchor won't rip through the wall. I understand that you can't or shouldn't give all that information in a RUclips video in the event someone copies your design and has different site criteria. Great video and professional installation!
Thanks and I'm, sorry to hear that. I do some of my research by looking at the comments of other videos and fact checking of course. I agree, the first course always gets buried. (Maybe I wasn't clear enough on that.) And the deadmen go back minimum of the height of the wall. We did extra to be sure we got into the stable ground. Thanks again
What is the life expectancy of this timber wall compared to another concrete block wall like you recently built? Beautiful, substantial retaining walls! Both types. 👍👍👍
Wow. Thank you for a concise, succinct and to the point video. I loved it. I have a MUCH smaller project in mind, but this system will work perfectly for it. Big thumbs up!!!
I love the idea of deadmen holding up a retaining wall. There's something about it that just makes me trust that wall will never fall down! That being said, are deadmen only for use in a wood retaining wall and geogrid only for use in a stone retaining wall? Or can you mix and match?
Thats typically how you will see it. Geogrid is used for concrete block because the weight of the block and how they lock together will hold it in place. Deadmen are easier to secure to a wood wall.
I used this timber screws on my 6x6 beams on my porch. One of the posts twisted and broke the screw. I imagine that wall has a lot more force than a beam naturally twisting.
Hey, This looks very sturdy and well engineered. Was only wondering about the 3' metal spikes/rods for ground support, wouldn't that rust and become brittle over time even with little moisture? That's my only area of concern but otherwise, it's solid work.
Super cool project, please indulge my noob question below! What is the likelihood of the rebar below ground becoming rusted and losing strength? Or does it matter for this application?
Architect here and just found your channel. Great channel and content. New sub and will be using your videos to guide a few projects on my WV land. 🍻 I'm creating my own channel and would love to collab at some point! Love the preaching about "water being the enemy" as it really is. No two ways about it. If you can keep water away from the parts of the project that don't handle water well (basically anything that's not stone, concrete, or masonry, etc), your projects will be of a higher quality and last much longer. 🍻🍻
I bought a 127x66 piece of land for an RV spot on the Mark Twain Lake in Missouri. This is exactly what I need to make a level spot. While it looks beautiful, my guess is this project would cost more than it did for me to buy the land. Additionally, at my actual home I have used railroad ties laying around. If I'm making only a 3 course high retaining wall only 10 feet long, are there any steps that are not needed that I can skip? Like no need to paint the ends with 60 year old creosote ties. Because it's only 3 courses would it not need the tie backs into the soil?
If you need only 3 courses high you won't need the deadmen. Just footing, secure them together with long timber screws, drainage pipe in the back with clean gravel and a filter fabric burrito to let the water escape.
Off topic question, but I noticed you had the Rigid tablesaw. I was wondering how you keep the fence on that aligned. I've tried every trick in the book including ordering some replacement plastic pads on etsy, but no matter what I do the fence never locks in square to the blade. Thanks.
The footing is 6-8in of compacted gravel and the first course is pinned in place with 3-4ft long 1/2" rebar. The first course is also buried when backfilling.
I have two questions. Number one what is the type of fabric that you guys are using? And number two, what is the spacing on your timber screws? Are you going every 2 ft, every 4-ft
Question - do you know if it is better or worse to use longer timber lengths? I need to build a 32' straight wall about 6' high and was wondering if I could use 2 - 16' foot timbers (6x6) instead of 8 footers? I know I need to tagger the joints so I will have some cuts but is it stronger to use longer or shorter lengths? Thanks
They only had 8ft landscape timbers around me. 16ft would be a bear to handle. I think if you stagger the joints it wont matter just make sure you have enough deadmen.
I'm surprised that the engineer and building department allowed you to build a 6' tall timber retaining wall with so few "deadmen" and not build as a "full crib". Having the anchors fastened to the "deadmen" are definitely helpful, but not as guaranteed as full crib construction.
Yeah for real what's full crib? Jk don't know why you would ask in comments instead of just Googling it. I did and got my answer in the first Pic I saw
I’m coming up on 35 years in construction. When I see “done the right way” on a video it’s usually not. You got it right. To the best of my knowledge you did damn near everything correct. Well done.
Thank you!
Not doing it correctly is the biggest worry I have in my area. I'd like to find someone that does it correctly in Northern Indiana.
@@brettbarnett9823same for central Indy
What an incredible resource. Easy to follow and straight to the point. This is well in excess of what I need. That being said, I am now equipped to over-engineer a BEASTLY little wall that we won't have to think about for a very long time. Thank you!
I have been a civil engineer for 12 years. Glad to see a video that *actually* shows the correct way to install a Ret. Wall on RUclips.
I also have never seen a RUclips video with so many comments from professionals giving praise. Way to kill it, need more professionals like you willing to show/teach people the right way to do these things.
I have a timber retaining wall built as this one was built. I’m concerned, however.
The first third of this 40 foot wall is dead level vertically and horizontally. The next third, which is taking the heaviest load, is a full bubble off in both directions. The final third is somewhere between the other two.
Rather than calling out a retaining wall company for an opinion, would I hire someone like you, a civil engineer, to evaluate?
Great work. You are a top-notch builder in my book. Good looking walls. Forney, TX
Thank you so much
E Texas
Love the hammer drill for rebar trick, thanks! Even if all that crushed limestone may be overkill, to me it looks like a great resource to have stored on the property, and it's out of sight. If there's ever a time you need gravel and it's hard to source or is too expensive you could just dip into the reserves.
when you dipped into the drainage gravel what would you replace it with?
Terrific work on those retaining walls which look like they will last a very long time! 👍👍
Thank you!
Wow, yall did an Amazing job building tbe retailing-wall!
Well done!
Great video. The last video I commented on stating that I'm a licensed structural engineer got nothing but flack from the other comments, so here i go again 😅.
I will say everything looks good and the only comments I would add are to make sure you bury the first railroad tie and that you're dead men anchors extend beyond the failure plane of the retaining wall.
The purpose of the dead man is to engage earth that does not exert pressure on the retaining wall.
I get lost in details and always look at the shear value of the fasteners in the deadman anchor connection to make sure that dead man anchor won't rip through the wall. I understand that you can't or shouldn't give all that information in a RUclips video in the event someone copies your design and has different site criteria.
Great video and professional installation!
Thanks and I'm, sorry to hear that. I do some of my research by looking at the comments of other videos and fact checking of course. I agree, the first course always gets buried. (Maybe I wasn't clear enough on that.) And the deadmen go back minimum of the height of the wall. We did extra to be sure we got into the stable ground. Thanks again
Nice looking walls. Good build video and great tips. Looks like lots going on with your new "money pit" (I've had a lakehouse before). - Chris
Thank you! 😂 And, yes you are correct!
What is the life expectancy of this timber wall compared to another concrete block wall like you recently built? Beautiful, substantial retaining walls! Both types. 👍👍👍
Wow. Thank you for a concise, succinct and to the point video. I loved it. I have a MUCH smaller project in mind, but this system will work perfectly for it. Big thumbs up!!!
How long will the fabric work before it decays? When it does decay do you have to dig up the dirt and cover up the limestone with new fabric?
I love the idea of deadmen holding up a retaining wall. There's something about it that just makes me trust that wall will never fall down! That being said, are deadmen only for use in a wood retaining wall and geogrid only for use in a stone retaining wall? Or can you mix and match?
Thats typically how you will see it. Geogrid is used for concrete block because the weight of the block and how they lock together will hold it in place. Deadmen are easier to secure to a wood wall.
I used this timber screws on my 6x6 beams on my porch. One of the posts twisted and broke the screw. I imagine that wall has a lot more force than a beam naturally twisting.
Came here to see comments on the timber screw. Questioning its structural qualties vs 3/8" galv spikes.
Hey,
This looks very sturdy and well engineered. Was only wondering about the 3' metal spikes/rods for ground support, wouldn't that rust and become brittle over time even with little moisture?
That's my only area of concern but otherwise, it's solid work.
Super cool project, please indulge my noob question below!
What is the likelihood of the rebar below ground becoming rusted and losing strength? Or does it matter for this application?
I've heard not to put the filter fabric vertical as it can clog and push a wall out and swear by only putting it on the top over the clean backfill.
Thank you very much!!!
Just wondering how long this took you and your crew? Great job, great video!
Architect here and just found your channel. Great channel and content. New sub and will be using your videos to guide a few projects on my WV land. 🍻 I'm creating my own channel and would love to collab at some point!
Love the preaching about "water being the enemy" as it really is. No two ways about it. If you can keep water away from the parts of the project that don't handle water well (basically anything that's not stone, concrete, or masonry, etc), your projects will be of a higher quality and last much longer. 🍻🍻
I bought a 127x66 piece of land for an RV spot on the Mark Twain Lake in Missouri. This is exactly what I need to make a level spot. While it looks beautiful, my guess is this project would cost more than it did for me to buy the land. Additionally, at my actual home I have used railroad ties laying around. If I'm making only a 3 course high retaining wall only 10 feet long, are there any steps that are not needed that I can skip? Like no need to paint the ends with 60 year old creosote ties. Because it's only 3 courses would it not need the tie backs into the soil?
If you need only 3 courses high you won't need the deadmen. Just footing, secure them together with long timber screws, drainage pipe in the back with clean gravel and a filter fabric burrito to let the water escape.
well done
I was wondering about the fill material and if you compacted it as you went? If not, what's to keep if from settling? Thanks!
Off topic question, but I noticed you had the Rigid tablesaw. I was wondering how you keep the fence on that aligned. I've tried every trick in the book including ordering some replacement plastic pads on etsy, but no matter what I do the fence never locks in square to the blade. Thanks.
Arg, I really with this kind of wall would last in the PNW. Looks so much better than concrete IMO.
So no concrete is actually needed? Will it be the same plan for a garden raised bed? amazing work, you guys are definitely pros, I'm jaleous lol
So what about a footing? I didn’t see a tie in the ground? Do you set everything surface level?
The footing is 6-8in of compacted gravel and the first course is pinned in place with 3-4ft long 1/2" rebar. The first course is also buried when backfilling.
How would you drain out of that tall corner? I have a similar project but I don’t have an end to drain out of. Appreciate any info if you could.
Do I need a deadman timber for a 3ft high wall??
Can we do a home with this method. It seems easier than other wood homes.
What kind of timber did you use? I’d like to do this in our yard but we don’t want to use railroad ties.
Does your drainage pipe have a sock or no?
What’s the max height you would go without tie backs ?
What’s the approximate cost of a project like this and how long and high is the wall?
I have two questions. Number one what is the type of fabric that you guys are using? And number two, what is the spacing on your timber screws? Are you going every 2 ft, every 4-ft
needle punched heavy duty landscape fabric and spaced the screws every 2ft(ish)
Question - do you know if it is better or worse to use longer timber lengths? I need to build a 32' straight wall about 6' high and was wondering if I could use 2 - 16' foot timbers (6x6) instead of 8 footers? I know I need to tagger the joints so I will have some cuts but is it stronger to use longer or shorter lengths? Thanks
They only had 8ft landscape timbers around me. 16ft would be a bear to handle. I think if you stagger the joints it wont matter just make sure you have enough deadmen.
@@rogueengineer Thank you. Yah was thinking the same thing about trying to handle/carry 16' footers.
Did you use pressure treated 6x6 or 8x8?
6x6s
in ur area could you have gone 8' vertical?
Same as this old house but then better.
I'm surprised that the engineer and building department allowed you to build a 6' tall timber retaining wall with so few "deadmen" and not build as a "full crib". Having the anchors fastened to the "deadmen" are definitely helpful, but not as guaranteed as full crib construction.
What’s full crib
Yeah what's full crib
Yeah for real what's full crib? Jk don't know why you would ask in comments instead of just Googling it. I did and got my answer in the first Pic I saw
@@TroyHelmly I wanted to reply with a picture of a full crib construction, but soon discovered that you can't reply with pictures.
Let's build a house just like this
20k build? My 4 tall 60 footer cost me 4.5k. Came out bitchen!
So mush work invested and no matter what you do it will look like crap in 15 years. Concrete is the only way to go
Worked on a few legit 40 years ago in the mountains in south Dakota very cold, sometimes hot, 300 inches of snow a year. It still looks the same.
There's two types of concrete, cracked.....and going to be cracked.
@@MrTuberguber sure, concrete cracks because of shrinkage. That’s why you place rebar into concrete to keep it in place when it cracks.
Can there be better invention ... instead of wood use heavy plastic fill in? It won't decay for years unlike wood rots???
$$$$$$
only 1% ever go off road so who cares
I was wondering about the fill material and if you compacted it as you went? If not, what's to keep if from settling? Thanks!
This would be a good addition 100%. Anything fill-wise 2ft deep should be compacted.