Cool tool, I love seeing the rabbit hole of building a worm gear cutter to make a worm drive to make a grinder to sharpen your plane to make furniture.
I make violins in my spare time- I use a regular cloth buffing wheel with green oxide to hone my tools to razor sharp- considering those cloth buffing wheels are only a few bucks it’s worth it in my books. I’ve also used the back of an old leather belt as a manual strop.. I’m sure you could glue a belt to your MDF wheel and be set! Enjoyed the build, hope it serves your sharpening needs for years to come!
That is a really good suggestion Michel! ... but also a little bit helpless ... or without possibly the right words: The last resort? hehehe. Just joking a little bit:) You know that the saddler or belt maker also had to get his raw materials? It hurts my heart a bit to waste a belt on this when you can buy exactly the same raw materials without practically wasting a good belt. But you're right: a good idea and a last resort at the same time:) I wish that your trousers stay up and have a good one, Michel!:) Edit: Just a thought: I think we won't get happy with cheap Chinese Imitation leather. And a good belt out of natural and processed leather may not even be the best choice, as it was processed to hold trousers and skirts and not break metal-edges. And the most important: The real leather ones aren't really cheap... :) (40-50 $ and more)
@@dieSpinnt If there is no old belt that can be used, he could simply buy a leather strip. I have seen strips saddle leather 50 inch long 1.5 inch wide at Amazon for around € 14,-
What better reason to choose a grinding wheel. So that you can “sharpen the braised carbide lathe tooling that you don’t use, and still won’t use”. 🤣Priceless logic, which makes you so special. Keep it up. 👏👏👍😀
I've been watching for a couple of years now, I think I found you when I was considering buying a mini lathe. I don't know how it is behind the camera, but I'm very impressed by the calm problem-solving and especially the results it's having : on your workshop and subcriber count! It's very impressive what you've been able to build with relatively limited space and resources. I look forward to seeing what is coming next !
Tip for using your wood chisel: You are using it upside down. If you use it the way you are, with the bevel on the top, the tip of the chisel can only go down into the material that you are chiseling. If you put the beveled face on the bottom, you can direct the tip of the chisel to cut down, up, or level into the material you are cutting.
Great build. I really like the tool holder. I'm not too sure about your use of plastic for your bushings though. A critical factor in preventing the stone from wobbling is the bearing shoulder where the flange for the stone rests. I fear the plastic would be almost instantly distorted when the nut is tightened.
Great job! Anything you make provides more satisfaction, and you did some nice work. At the end of the day - you used it, it did what you needed and you didn’t spend a ton of money on it. And as an added bonus, you used skills gained along the way. That’s something to be proud of.
I only occasionally have to/get to use a lathe or mill or grinder for my work so I am enjoying getting my fix vicariously through your projects. Keep up the awesome work!
Plane iron camber is an essential subtlety in the craft. A bit of the secret magic that makes it all work. Sometimes the camber is very slight. Imperceptible really. But it matters when using the tool. An iron with no camber and square corners leaves tracks flattening and you can't adjust jointing. As in you can't influence the angle by favoring one side of the plane sole or the other. The slightest cambers are made in the honing process by just applying pressure to the corners of the plane iron. Heavier cambers are made by radially grinding the irons. I just figured I'd bring all of that up. The whole camber issue. As it seems to be ignored here.
God dam. Everyone's an expert in RUclips comment sections. I think this grinder is pretty dope! Was looking to build my own somehow with a windshield (or wind screen) wiper motor like Stefan Gotteswinter did back in the day, only way lower tolerance and appeal lol.
Maybe the "actually" comments are hidden, but everyone seems pretty positive. Because his design is pretty good, and should make consistent edges without drawing back the temper. I haven't finished the video, but as long as he addresses the manufacturer defect of the excessive radial runout, it'll definitely be a nice sharpener.
Nice job and solidly constructed, I've seen an old Tormek that had failed and wasn't impressed with the design given what they charge for them. I think your use of acetal for the bearings is a better choice than nylon, it machines better and isn't prone to moisture absorption which can cause nylon to change dimensions.
Tormeks always struck me as a bit of a come on. They are wicked expensive. I'm doing OK with my homemade dry grinder over here. The trick to using dry grinders is to just run the right wheel on them. Which isn't a hard wheel. You want a soft friable tool room wheel. They run a lot cooler. Soft wheels wear a lot faster but if all you're doing is sharpening they still last a long time. I haven't worn one out yet.
You may find that keeping your chisels at an angle to the work will give you a cleaner, easier shearing cut. Also, by putting your plane on its side will help protect your blade from nicks and damage.
It occurs to me that if you have a grinding wheel that wobbles and runs out, you could glue a solid plastic plug in the hole, mount the wheel in the lathe chuck (carefully, don't squeeze too hard) and bore a true hole through it. That should get you pretty close. A lot better than the nested bushings that come with the wheel.
Great build, enjoyed following the whole process. Have newer seen anyone make a Tormek-style grinder, repect for having a go at it! A few experiences from owning an older Tormek that might be usefull: Angled, larger sides to the water tray makes the machine way less messy to use. Also put a magnet in the tray to catch shavings, as these have a tencency to start to rust and stick to the tray. A few drops of oil-water emulsion cutting fluid helps fight the rusting as well. The ability to adjust the height of the bar that supports the tools is a central feature of the Tormek system. Makes it way easier to adjust tool angles, adapt to different types of holders etc. The mdf wheel works great for very accurate angles, and probably best with some sort of tool support. A good choise if you mainly intend to use the machine for metal turning tools. The leather covered wheels are better for freehand use and makes a more rounded hone. Keep up the good work!
I'd agree with many of the other comments. First, I love the grinder overall! I may be using it for some inspiration on my own build. I'd reverse the wheel direction, though - The blade should be "cutting" into the stone wheel. But bear in mind should be turning away from the edge for that stropping wheel if you switch directions!
To your comment about a diamond wheel- I would be careful going down that route. Diamond abrasives remove a lot of material pretty darn fast. If you accidentally start on the wrong angle or introduce too much pressure, it can lead you down a rabbit hole trying to correct it. I have a lapping process that I’ve implemented at work and I quickly moved away from diamond abrasives and have stuck with #1200 silicon carbide since. Time/accuracy/finish seems to be the best with silicon carbide when it comes to slower processes imo- even when compared to super high grit diamond. For your process, it would probably be fine, but I wanted to throw a word of caution since I’ve delt with it myself!
Love the vids.... But I think you need a theme song for when your hacksawing all the time. I'm gonna recommend ACDC big guns because you gotta have some huge arms by now🤣🤣🤣🤣😁😁😁😁😁 keep up the good work and I hope you enjoy the laugh
Absolutely great build! A great follow-up build would be a gouge jig. Something that allows you to rotate a gouge on a set axis to keep your angle and get a very true sharpen.
Great tool, super useful! You can get a variable DC transformer really cheap, the 775 motor is very forgiving at voltages between 6v and 20v. I have one that doesn't complain at 25v.
Very nice design Artisan Makes. If you want to save some time and money try adapting a stainless steel baking tray for your water pan. You can buy them on line for about $5.
To get the best results, you should build a holder for the drills that also slides on the jig bar... That way, you keep the exact same angle when rotating the drill to grind each flute which should keep them centered and even which will produce a better cut when drilling metal...
I know you have a small workshop and space is at a premium, but have you considered trying powdercoating for your parts? You'd need to put an oven somewhere but you might be able to store the gun etc inside it when not in use. I know everything comes down to space in that workshop but i think it might improve the quality of your corrosion prevention over spray cans. Excellent build for a budget as always 👌
Speaking to the wheel bore. I have a Tormek and almost every wheel has a bore and surfaces that aren't square. They recommend using the side of the wheeel for the backs of planes and such but it never works because of the wobble.
Blinking excellent! Good work chap. No need to pour shame on your welds on the water bath btw, even once you've tried your best to grind off the zinc, previously galvanised steel is a 🤬 to weld nicely.
That's a great result mate👍 If you ever need something folded and welded in stainless like that little tray feel free to hit me up, it would be fun to do a collab.
Excelent video mate. I'm thinking to so some modifications in my sharpening setup and will use some of your ideas. By the away, I'm eager to see what would be your approach for a knife sharpening dig ( please, consider doing a video about it soon 😊 )
For giggles you can Add a third arm for a 1/2 wide finger belt sander it is the hot thing for a lot of knife lappers in the states. Mostly got popular with some tool companies because you can make a convex blade shape with less Tallent and cheaper jigs. Far less sustainable than those big old wheels though. Cool project BTW fun to watch.
looking good! i was thinking about your unsupported worm screw drive end, and inspired by vanover custom's recent slow-speed grinder build, had the idea that you could just extend the near end of the worm drive and use it to hold a bearing, rather than having to deal with attaching it to the case or anything like that.
I have a leather strop, a leather stropping belt for my belt sander, and two mdf wheels for my bench grinder. One for black rouge, one for green. And yes, if you’re sharpening knives, try the green chromium oxide for the final edge polishing. The white aluminum oxide does alright, but that green is a machine. Know what I mean? Screen Jean clean peen? The mdf does just as well as the leather strop does. I kind of prefer the hand strop though. The delicate work seems to come out better when it’s done by hand carefully.
Looking good, though I'm not convinced on the aluminium rail. You can get away with the jigs being aluminium, but I think the rail will begin to gall and distort fairly rapidly over time. My version is using 316 stainless, jigs are getting brass bushings.
Hey, it came out so good looking.. If you were to sell this you have to make a case of comparison, for your own use you know what you want and what you got!
u should include in the videos footage of u do the calculations/positioning/planning, watching the actual machining is nice but seeing some of the back ground stuff is quite interesting.
Instead of gluing that tool rest bar in place you should added a thumb screw to allow you to slide the guide back and forth between lapping/strop side and the grinding wheel. 👍👍
could glue on a bit of leather, or maybe have a few mdf wheels where you glue on various grits of sand paper or such. might even work with some felt for polishing things up.
I was thinking of doing something similar but with with angle grinder pinions, you can find them as replacement parts and are dirt cheap, they come with a key so machining a slot in the motor's shaft would be pretty easy
An angle grinder bevel gear setup wouldn't give the reduction required without additional gearing. If you want something off the shelf you could probably use a windscreen wiper motor.
Instead of clamping plastic in the lathe chuck put a scrap in the chuck, face it off and 3M double sided tape to hold it. press it on with the tail stock. With the tail stock out off the way you can machine it like normal and no distortion of the work. We did this all the time working with industrial plastics, even on the mill, where you can mill all four sides and face at the same time, no vice.
those motors are used in 12v and 18 v drills coming out of china , this means those motors are cheap and easy to replace but also you have that headroom to speed up the motor by increasing the voltage upto about 20v with no issues in case you need that additional speed ,
To remove galvanization from sheet metal...soak in a tub of vinegar for a few hours, the acid will etch it off pretty well (saw it on YT...ya know YT certified lol) Ooh...also a strip of leather glued around that wood wheel then filled with that grinding compound would make one heck of a stropping wheel for knives and such Very cool on the build! That worm gear is good stuff [nice and slow and plenty of torque]! I wonder if a "bullet brass" one would be a bit more rugged ;) Keep em coming!!!!
Lye is somewhat more effective (makes a lot of difference when removing thick "hot-dip" zinc layer) and safer too (for the steel, that is) as it dissolves zinc but not steel. So you can just drop a piece of whatever you need remove zinc off of into a bucket with concentrated lye (caustic soda - the one used for unclogging drains is good enough) solution, and leave it overnight, and sleep well knowing steel won't be attacked. Also, cover the bucket - it will not only ensure safety of all the spiders in yer shop, but (as added benefit) will prevent CO2 absorption from atmosphere, which would turn caustic soda into baking soda - and these two ARE NOT the same "sodas" ;-)
You really should put a magnet in the bottom of the pan. When the sludge is freefloating it will stay on the wheel and pack in the grit. You'll end up having to resurface it more often than expected.
i think you used too much plastic when it comes to the wheels. would it be better to use brass or bronze for the shaft bushings and brass for the wheel spacer? i was thinking that may help even moe with out of round. over all very nice work as always!
If you want the best possible Sharp Edge, you should have bought the Diamond Wheels... If you really want to ensure the motor doesn't get wet, next time you take the case apart, add a thin bead of silicone sealant along each edge/mating face and on the threads of each bolt, then even if the case gets wet, the silicone will ensure it stays out of the motor area...
I can't remember what plastic you used, but for comparison my ebike motor (bbs02) uses a metal to nylon worm drive and while it does have a MUCH coarser thread it also deals with much higher forces and goes for 1000s of hours so... seems good :)
If you use a square rod as a guide with a rounded end that is clamped in, you can actually set an angle of attack and not rely on the actual tool you want to sharpen to find the "right" angle.
I could be wrong but it’s my understanding that you’d typically want to run demmings drills pretty slow? Could be different for aluminum but 180 rpm or less on steel was a rule of thumb that I was taught.
I'm late to the party, and if it's already been addressed in the comments, I apologize. I don't have a grinder for sharpening plane irons and chisels, although I wish I did at times. When sharpening your plane iron or chisel, it's important to flatten the back. I would sharpen and strop the bevel on your grinder and then take it to a flat stone to knock the bur off of the back. The other common problem people have using hand tools on wood is the inability to read the grain direction of the wood. Always plane and chisel with the wood grain, and remember that end grain isn't easy for anyone.
Looks great But a thing I have with all these vids both from you and from other channels. Is this sentence. "I will just slap a block of aluminum". To get the tooling and machines to get started, is a no brainer... Just talk with your wife, over dinner that you want to get in to hobby metal working...2 sec after all in your family gets adds from firms that want to sell you this.. But the work material. Where to get it, tips tricks. I wanted to build a vacuum former...but unable to find a reliable source to buy the same sheet, made me nervous that I was able to build it, but after would I be able to get it again.
Since your shaft is not perfect and the hole in the grinding wheel is off center you will want to re-true the wheel every time you remove it because the clocking will most likely change when remounting. The eccentric motion would make your grinding angle change by a few degrees during each revolution.
He could drawl a line on the non smooth surface of the wheel, the slick soft plastic of the spacer and the smooth metal spindle. Good luck trying to perfectly line up all three while tightening a nut. A better suggestion would be to keyway everything or ... hear me out ... redress the wheel.
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm glad to see that you took something that was out of whack and were able to put it in whack.
Cool tool, I love seeing the rabbit hole of building a worm gear cutter to make a worm drive to make a grinder to sharpen your plane to make furniture.
Especially furniture that you can put worm gear cutters into ...
The circle of "knife".
Hehehe:)
I make violins in my spare time- I use a regular cloth buffing wheel with green oxide to hone my tools to razor sharp- considering those cloth buffing wheels are only a few bucks it’s worth it in my books. I’ve also used the back of an old leather belt as a manual strop.. I’m sure you could glue a belt to your MDF wheel and be set! Enjoyed the build, hope it serves your sharpening needs for years to come!
You could glue a leather belt around that MDF wheel. Neatly bevel the beginning and end and glue it with a good contact adhesive.
That is a really good suggestion Michel! ... but also a little bit helpless ... or without possibly the right words: The last resort? hehehe.
Just joking a little bit:) You know that the saddler or belt maker also had to get his raw materials? It hurts my heart a bit to waste a belt on this when you can buy exactly the same raw materials without practically wasting a good belt. But you're right: a good idea and a last resort at the same time:) I wish that your trousers stay up and have a good one, Michel!:)
Edit: Just a thought: I think we won't get happy with cheap Chinese Imitation leather. And a good belt out of natural and processed leather may not even be the best choice, as it was processed to hold trousers and skirts and not break metal-edges. And the most important: The real leather ones aren't really cheap... :) (40-50 $ and more)
@@dieSpinnt If there is no old belt that can be used, he could simply buy a leather strip. I have seen strips saddle leather 50 inch long 1.5 inch wide at Amazon for around € 14,-
It is better to have a sharp tool you never use, than a dull tool you never use. :)
What better reason to choose a grinding wheel. So that you can “sharpen the braised carbide lathe tooling that you don’t use, and still won’t use”. 🤣Priceless logic, which makes you so special. Keep it up. 👏👏👍😀
I've been watching for a couple of years now, I think I found you when I was considering buying a mini lathe. I don't know how it is behind the camera, but I'm very impressed by the calm problem-solving and especially the results it's having : on your workshop and subcriber count! It's very impressive what you've been able to build with relatively limited space and resources. I look forward to seeing what is coming next !
Tip for using your wood chisel: You are using it upside down. If you use it the way you are, with the bevel on the top, the tip of the chisel can only go down into the material that you are chiseling. If you put the beveled face on the bottom, you can direct the tip of the chisel to cut down, up, or level into the material you are cutting.
Great build. I really like the tool holder. I'm not too sure about your use of plastic for your bushings though. A critical factor in preventing the stone from wobbling is the bearing shoulder where the flange for the stone rests. I fear the plastic would be almost instantly distorted when the nut is tightened.
You did a great job. I was worried about the pan walls not being high enough for slinging water but it seems like you nailed it.
Great job! Anything you make provides more satisfaction, and you did some nice work. At the end of the day - you used it, it did what you needed and you didn’t spend a ton of money on it. And as an added bonus, you used skills gained along the way. That’s something to be proud of.
A whetstone grinder is definitely useful. I unfortunately overpaid for my Jet one, but it's still very good to use with the stone it came with.
I only occasionally have to/get to use a lathe or mill or grinder for my work so I am enjoying getting my fix vicariously through your projects. Keep up the awesome work!
Plane iron camber is an essential subtlety in the craft. A bit of the secret magic that makes it all work. Sometimes the camber is very slight. Imperceptible really. But it matters when using the tool. An iron with no camber and square corners leaves tracks flattening and you can't adjust jointing. As in you can't influence the angle by favoring one side of the plane sole or the other. The slightest cambers are made in the honing process by just applying pressure to the corners of the plane iron. Heavier cambers are made by radially grinding the irons. I just figured I'd bring all of that up. The whole camber issue. As it seems to be ignored here.
God dam. Everyone's an expert in RUclips comment sections. I think this grinder is pretty dope! Was looking to build my own somehow with a windshield (or wind screen) wiper motor like Stefan Gotteswinter did back in the day, only way lower tolerance and appeal lol.
Maybe the "actually" comments are hidden, but everyone seems pretty positive. Because his design is pretty good, and should make consistent edges without drawing back the temper. I haven't finished the video, but as long as he addresses the manufacturer defect of the excessive radial runout, it'll definitely be a nice sharpener.
Nice job and solidly constructed, I've seen an old Tormek that had failed and wasn't impressed with the design given what they charge for them. I think your use of acetal for the bearings is a better choice than nylon, it machines better and isn't prone to moisture absorption which can cause nylon to change dimensions.
Tormeks always struck me as a bit of a come on. They are wicked expensive. I'm doing OK with my homemade dry grinder over here. The trick to using dry grinders is to just run the right wheel on them. Which isn't a hard wheel. You want a soft friable tool room wheel. They run a lot cooler. Soft wheels wear a lot faster but if all you're doing is sharpening they still last a long time. I haven't worn one out yet.
You may find that keeping your chisels at an angle to the work will give you a cleaner, easier shearing cut.
Also, by putting your plane on its side will help protect your blade from nicks and damage.
Great results there mate
I sugest to you to put neodimium magnet on water tray, to collect metal particles from grinding
It occurs to me that if you have a grinding wheel that wobbles and runs out, you could glue a solid plastic plug in the hole, mount the wheel in the lathe chuck (carefully, don't squeeze too hard) and bore a true hole through it. That should get you pretty close. A lot better than the nested bushings that come with the wheel.
Great build, enjoyed following the whole process. Have newer seen anyone make a Tormek-style grinder, repect for having a go at it!
A few experiences from owning an older Tormek that might be usefull:
Angled, larger sides to the water tray makes the machine way less messy to use. Also put a magnet in the tray to catch shavings, as these have a tencency to start to rust and stick to the tray. A few drops of oil-water emulsion cutting fluid helps fight the rusting as well.
The ability to adjust the height of the bar that supports the tools is a central feature of the Tormek system. Makes it way easier to adjust tool angles, adapt to different types of holders etc.
The mdf wheel works great for very accurate angles, and probably best with some sort of tool support. A good choise if you mainly intend to use the machine for metal turning tools. The leather covered wheels are better for freehand use and makes a more rounded hone.
Keep up the good work!
MDF is better than soft leather for most applications. Very hard leather (such as rawhide) is best of all.
I'd agree with many of the other comments. First, I love the grinder overall! I may be using it for some inspiration on my own build. I'd reverse the wheel direction, though - The blade should be "cutting" into the stone wheel. But bear in mind should be turning away from the edge for that stropping wheel if you switch directions!
To your comment about a diamond wheel-
I would be careful going down that route. Diamond abrasives remove a lot of material pretty darn fast. If you accidentally start on the wrong angle or introduce too much pressure, it can lead you down a rabbit hole trying to correct it. I have a lapping process that I’ve implemented at work and I quickly moved away from diamond abrasives and have stuck with #1200 silicon carbide since. Time/accuracy/finish seems to be the best with silicon carbide when it comes to slower processes imo- even when compared to super high grit diamond. For your process, it would probably be fine, but I wanted to throw a word of caution since I’ve delt with it myself!
Love the vids.... But I think you need a theme song for when your hacksawing all the time. I'm gonna recommend ACDC big guns because you gotta have some huge arms by now🤣🤣🤣🤣😁😁😁😁😁 keep up the good work and I hope you enjoy the laugh
Absolutely great build! A great follow-up build would be a gouge jig. Something that allows you to rotate a gouge on a set axis to keep your angle and get a very true sharpen.
Very good result, I like it! I'm glad you trued that wheel up though, watching the wobble was driving me nuts!!
I love the simplicity how you designed and built this machine, well done, very good result !
cheers ben.
Great tool, super useful! You can get a variable DC transformer really cheap, the 775 motor is very forgiving at voltages between 6v and 20v. I have one that doesn't complain at 25v.
You're definitely getting better at tig welding. Keep at it
Very nice design Artisan Makes. If you want to save some time and money try adapting a stainless steel baking tray for your water pan. You can buy them on line for about $5.
That's a great job, thanks for sharing the project.
Excellent work. You should be proud.
You are becoming the most famous and brave toolmaker in the world. Not kidding.
very cool!!!, now i want to make one, mostly for my metal scraper
Steve Summers made one not too long ago on his channel. You might check that out.
To get the best results, you should build a holder for the drills that also slides on the jig bar...
That way, you keep the exact same angle when rotating the drill to grind each flute which should keep them centered and even which will produce a better cut when drilling metal...
Well, that's a nice looking new tool that's working well.
Cheers 👍💪✌
I know you have a small workshop and space is at a premium, but have you considered trying powdercoating for your parts? You'd need to put an oven somewhere but you might be able to store the gun etc inside it when not in use. I know everything comes down to space in that workshop but i think it might improve the quality of your corrosion prevention over spray cans. Excellent build for a budget as always 👌
Speaking to the wheel bore. I have a Tormek and almost every wheel has a bore and surfaces that aren't square.
They recommend using the side of the wheeel for the backs of planes and such but it never works because of the wobble.
Blinking excellent! Good work chap. No need to pour shame on your welds on the water bath btw, even once you've tried your best to grind off the zinc, previously galvanised steel is a 🤬 to weld nicely.
Jobs a Gooden as we say in the UK, great content in all your videos keep up the great work
Love the POVMEK! Take that big Grindr... #fightthepower ❤
That's a great result mate👍
If you ever need something folded and welded in stainless like that little tray feel free to hit me up, it would be fun to do a collab.
Excelent video mate.
I'm thinking to so some modifications in my sharpening setup and will use some of your ideas.
By the away, I'm eager to see what would be your approach for a knife sharpening dig ( please, consider doing a video about it soon 😊 )
I have a Tormek, but I see yours is every bit as good as mine.
That would work good for kitchen knives! I love it.
For giggles you can Add a third arm for a 1/2 wide finger belt sander it is the hot thing for a lot of knife lappers in the states. Mostly got popular with some tool companies because you can make a convex blade shape with less Tallent and cheaper jigs. Far less sustainable than those big old wheels though. Cool project BTW fun to watch.
Great build, thanks a lot for sharing!
To reduce the force required to push the plane, try rubbing the sole with the back end of a candle, or an oily rag.
looking good! i was thinking about your unsupported worm screw drive end, and inspired by vanover custom's recent slow-speed grinder build, had the idea that you could just extend the near end of the worm drive and use it to hold a bearing, rather than having to deal with attaching it to the case or anything like that.
Super awesome. Congrats on the sweet new tool!!
outstanding work
I have a leather strop, a leather stropping belt for my belt sander, and two mdf wheels for my bench grinder. One for black rouge, one for green. And yes, if you’re sharpening knives, try the green chromium oxide for the final edge polishing. The white aluminum oxide does alright, but that green is a machine. Know what I mean? Screen Jean clean peen? The mdf does just as well as the leather strop does. I kind of prefer the hand strop though. The delicate work seems to come out better when it’s done by hand carefully.
Looking good, though I'm not convinced on the aluminium rail. You can get away with the jigs being aluminium, but I think the rail will begin to gall and distort fairly rapidly over time. My version is using 316 stainless, jigs are getting brass bushings.
The joys of home made tools, I've always been amused by the idea of all the RUclips machinists/engineers rebuilding the world after World War III
Hey, it came out so good looking.. If you were to sell this you have to make a case of comparison, for your own use you know what you want and what you got!
u should include in the videos footage of u do the calculations/positioning/planning, watching the actual machining is nice but seeing some of the back ground stuff is quite interesting.
Instead of gluing that tool rest bar in place you should added a thumb screw to allow you to slide the guide back and forth between lapping/strop side and the grinding wheel. 👍👍
Hey, you can use the grinder to smooth out those awesome tig welds😀
you should add a dressing attachment to the 16mm bar so you can true up the silicon carbide wheel
could glue on a bit of leather, or maybe have a few mdf wheels where you glue on various grits of sand paper or such. might even work with some felt for polishing things up.
I was thinking of doing something similar but with with angle grinder pinions, you can find them as replacement parts and are dirt cheap, they come with a key so machining a slot in the motor's shaft would be pretty easy
An angle grinder bevel gear setup wouldn't give the reduction required without additional gearing. If you want something off the shelf you could probably use a windscreen wiper motor.
Awesome build
Instead of clamping plastic in the lathe chuck put a scrap in the chuck, face it off and 3M double sided tape to hold it. press it on with the tail stock. With the tail stock out off the way you can machine it like normal and no distortion of the work. We did this all the time working with industrial plastics, even on the mill, where you can mill all four sides and face at the same time, no vice.
id like to see a drill sharpening jig on this, that's able to slide on the stem for equal coverage of the grinding wheel
Excellent work.
Great build. A little wax on the sole of the plane will further improve the shoothness of the cuts :)
Awesome, the only thing that i would have changed is the aluminum rod for a stainless one just so it lasts longer
Nice little grinder :)
Have you considered making a small press brake for your sheet metal workings?
Love your channel, mate. You will soon realize that a silicone carbide wheel is very slow for grinding HSS.
those motors are used in 12v and 18 v drills coming out of china , this means those motors are cheap and easy to replace but also you have that headroom to speed up the motor by increasing the voltage upto about 20v with no issues in case you need that additional speed ,
Next episode, attachment for drill bits
To remove galvanization from sheet metal...soak in a tub of vinegar for a few hours, the acid will etch it off pretty well (saw it on YT...ya know YT certified lol)
Ooh...also a strip of leather glued around that wood wheel then filled with that grinding compound would make one heck of a stropping wheel for knives and such
Very cool on the build! That worm gear is good stuff [nice and slow and plenty of torque]! I wonder if a "bullet brass" one would be a bit more rugged ;)
Keep em coming!!!!
Lye is somewhat more effective (makes a lot of difference when removing thick "hot-dip" zinc layer) and safer too (for the steel, that is) as it dissolves zinc but not steel. So you can just drop a piece of whatever you need remove zinc off of into a bucket with concentrated lye (caustic soda - the one used for unclogging drains is good enough) solution, and leave it overnight, and sleep well knowing steel won't be attacked.
Also, cover the bucket - it will not only ensure safety of all the spiders in yer shop, but (as added benefit) will prevent CO2 absorption from atmosphere, which would turn caustic soda into baking soda - and these two ARE NOT the same "sodas" ;-)
You really should put a magnet in the bottom of the pan. When the sludge is freefloating it will stay on the wheel and pack in the grit. You'll end up having to resurface it more often than expected.
Rather than just using the MDF, i glued an old leather belt (the kind that keeps trousers up) to mine and it I has been great
Smart tool 😀 can you glue an old belt round the honing wheel?
Very nice build!
You could fasten a thick piece of leather around the MDF, could possibly give you better results.
You don't need to worry about your gear, some garage door openers use Delrin for their driven gear.
Whaaat!, using a grinder, I expected you to use your trusty hacksaw ;)
So many bloody experts on you tube l wonder what they have made 😂😊
Fantastic job, top man👍
i think you used too much plastic when it comes to the wheels. would it be better to use brass or bronze for the shaft bushings and brass for the wheel spacer? i was thinking that may help even moe with out of round. over all very nice work as always!
Very nice work.
If you want the best possible Sharp Edge, you should have bought the Diamond Wheels...
If you really want to ensure the motor doesn't get wet, next time you take the case apart, add a thin bead of silicone sealant along each edge/mating face and on the threads of each bolt, then even if the case gets wet, the silicone will ensure it stays out of the motor area...
I can't remember what plastic you used, but for comparison my ebike motor (bbs02) uses a metal to nylon worm drive and while it does have a MUCH coarser thread it also deals with much higher forces and goes for 1000s of hours so... seems good :)
nice work!
I just love how intensely SQUARE it is
If you use a square rod as a guide with a rounded end that is clamped in, you can actually set an angle of attack and not rely on the actual tool you want to sharpen to find the "right" angle.
Kicking goals. Cheers.
Yo! I wanna see the torque and horsepower numbers on that beast? You gonna put old skool flames on it?
You may find that a CBN wheel will do the job for you. There are a number ranging from $51 on Ebay to $230 at Carbatec.. Cool build mate.
I'm not too sure such wheels are suitable in a grinder running at such a slow speed. I'd find a way to check that out before purchasing one.
@@crichtonbruce4329 At least Ryobi low speed grinder I've seen comes with one.
@@lawriealush-jaggs1473 Thanks. I didn't know that. All the ones I've seen advertised were for normal speed bench or pedestal grinders.
Nice job.
What would your thoughts be on someone purchasing a mini lathe and this being their first project? Asking for a friend...
I could be wrong but it’s my understanding that you’d typically want to run demmings drills pretty slow? Could be different for aluminum but 180 rpm or less on steel was a rule of thumb that I was taught.
If you have the mill than has the power to do it then yes. I don’t I have to run it faster
@@artisanmakes oh interesting I had no clue - I’m still a 1st year student so I really only know basics
No worries. Probably doesn’t look like it but this is a very small milling machine
I'm late to the party, and if it's already been addressed in the comments, I apologize. I don't have a grinder for sharpening plane irons and chisels, although I wish I did at times. When sharpening your plane iron or chisel, it's important to flatten the back. I would sharpen and strop the bevel on your grinder and then take it to a flat stone to knock the bur off of the back. The other common problem people have using hand tools on wood is the inability to read the grain direction of the wood. Always plane and chisel with the wood grain, and remember that end grain isn't easy for anyone.
Super cool! Pun intended!
Looks great
But a thing I have with all these vids both from you and from other channels.
Is this sentence.
"I will just slap a block of aluminum".
To get the tooling and machines to get started, is a no brainer... Just talk with your wife, over dinner that you want to get in to hobby metal working...2 sec after all in your family gets adds from firms that want to sell you this..
But the work material. Where to get it, tips tricks.
I wanted to build a vacuum former...but unable to find a reliable source to buy the same sheet, made me nervous that I was able to build it, but after would I be able to get it again.
Since your shaft is not perfect and the hole in the grinding wheel is off center you will want to re-true the wheel every time you remove it because the clocking will most likely change when remounting. The eccentric motion would make your grinding angle change by a few degrees during each revolution.
This can be compensated for by drawing a line on the spindle and the wheel when taking it off. As any remedy prevention is the cure.
He could drawl a line on the non smooth surface of the wheel, the slick soft plastic of the spacer and the smooth metal spindle. Good luck trying to perfectly line up all three while tightening a nut.
A better suggestion would be to keyway everything or ... hear me out ... redress the wheel.
@@pb222221 its not about perfection, its about good enough
I bought a T7 years ago, it was about 500 euro's (a show model). Now the price did go up. It is a very good machine, but the price...
There still seems to be zinc on the sheet metal. Please be careful with the fumes when welding.