@@KentuckyWashPros now all should be right with the world haha. Watch out for the right side crank case breather tube. I had some dirt dauber block it and it wouldn't run right until I cleared the tube. It's a solid engine I use as my main washing rig.
@@KentuckyWashPros gotcha, I may have to add a 12v pump. I added the same b&s pump and it seemed to fix the problem for a little while. What about heat issues? I ran mine for about 90 mins until it shut off and I noticed the gear drive spit half the oil out of the vented cap.
Thanks for post on this video! I've got one of these motors on a mud-motor kit and from all forums I've read even with the addition of a briggs and stratton fuel pump inside these motors require an additional resource like a electronic fuel pump outside of the motor to overcome this throttle barrier. From the comments below, do you wish you would've done the electronic fuel pump instead of the pairing (internal fuel pump and external fuel pump)? Thanks for your time.
I just unboxed my 670 and swapped pumps with a GX670 pump and when it came to it priming itself it filled the new filter I installed but once I started it the fuel level was under the filter for pretty much the whole 3 hr break in. It looked like it was running on vapors but some how still sucking fuel in. The higher in rpms the more fuel was in the filter but it still looked lower than it should be. I do need to double check my fittings at the gas tank because every so often I'd see some bubbles come through. Not a constant bubbling but ever so often a group of bubbles came through the filter. That was yesterday, today I noticed the fittings on the tank were out of place aka loose. But I may also take the inline fuel shut off switch of that's another source of air. At 2h52m of the break in I did get some noise variations from then engine and then some sputtering but then it went back to normal. I think the fuel tank just needed to be tilted even though it had probably two gallons left but idk how low the pickup tube is for the 6 gallon scepter tanks. Also I drained the oil that was already in the engine before break in, had two small globs of grease come out. Add 1.5 quarts when filling then read the dipstick from there and add if needed. I added cross hatching to the stick with my knife to make the oil stick and easier to read. I should be uploading my pressure washer build on my other channel soon. It's 19.7GB worth of clips. You don't exactly see me build it but there's details in it you don't usually see.
Hey buddy, when you fired your 6.5 up for the first time, did it pull water right away from buffer tank? I built one and have water in line right to pump but It will not pull it and spray it, any thoughts? How did you prime yours?
Mine primed the first time with no problems. I would recommend taking the waterline inlet to your pump loose it could be airlock make sure at the end of your pressure washer hose that your ball valve is open and reconnect my water inlet to my pump and then I will crank it and see if it will work that way
Great engine I've not had one issue with almost 2 seasons on it. First thing I did was change the fuel filter and fuel pump with Honda parts.
I changed the filter first thing and really wished I’d went a head and changed the pump
@@KentuckyWashPros now all should be right with the world haha. Watch out for the right side crank case breather tube. I had some dirt dauber block it and it wouldn't run right until I cleared the tube. It's a solid engine I use as my main washing rig.
What's the best after market fuel filter?
One of the most common “upgrades” is changing out to a Honda fuel pump. It’s good insurance especially when this is your source of income
Yea the only way I could make it work was by adding a 12v fuel pump
@KentuckyWashPros it working good with the 12v pump? I bought the same one you used in your video havent messed with it yet though
These are very good engines.. I have 4 of them..
I’m hoping this fixes my issues
Update us how it works out
Did this resolve your issues? I’m having similar troubles with mine. I just put together a 670 with TSF2021
I ended up adding a 12v low pressure fuel pump and that fixed it.
@@KentuckyWashPros which one did you use?
@@KentuckyWashPros gotcha, I may have to add a 12v pump. I added the same b&s pump and it seemed to fix the problem for a little while. What about heat issues? I ran mine for about 90 mins until it shut off and I noticed the gear drive spit half the oil out of the vented cap.
Did you fix this ? I have same problem with my gear drive And engine stopping .
Couldn't see couldn't hear please try again, I really wanted to know
👍🏻
Thanks for post on this video! I've got one of these motors on a mud-motor kit and from all forums I've read even with the addition of a briggs and stratton fuel pump inside these motors require an additional resource like a electronic fuel pump outside of the motor to overcome this throttle barrier. From the comments below, do you wish you would've done the electronic fuel pump instead of the pairing (internal fuel pump and external fuel pump)? Thanks for your time.
I just unboxed my 670 and swapped pumps with a GX670 pump and when it came to it priming itself it filled the new filter I installed but once I started it the fuel level was under the filter for pretty much the whole 3 hr break in. It looked like it was running on vapors but some how still sucking fuel in. The higher in rpms the more fuel was in the filter but it still looked lower than it should be. I do need to double check my fittings at the gas tank because every so often I'd see some bubbles come through. Not a constant bubbling but ever so often a group of bubbles came through the filter. That was yesterday, today I noticed the fittings on the tank were out of place aka loose. But I may also take the inline fuel shut off switch of that's another source of air. At 2h52m of the break in I did get some noise variations from then engine and then some sputtering but then it went back to normal. I think the fuel tank just needed to be tilted even though it had probably two gallons left but idk how low the pickup tube is for the 6 gallon scepter tanks. Also I drained the oil that was already in the engine before break in, had two small globs of grease come out. Add 1.5 quarts when filling then read the dipstick from there and add if needed. I added cross hatching to the stick with my knife to make the oil stick and easier to read. I should be uploading my pressure washer build on my other channel soon. It's 19.7GB worth of clips. You don't exactly see me build it but there's details in it you don't usually see.
I just kept the 1/4 line short as possible use a primer bulb and never had an issue.
great video man!!!
Appreciate it!
Hey buddy, when you fired your 6.5 up for the first time, did it pull water right away from buffer tank? I built one and have water in line right to pump but It will not pull it and spray it, any thoughts?
How did you prime yours?
Mine primed the first time with no problems. I would recommend taking the waterline inlet to your pump loose it could be airlock make sure at the end of your pressure washer hose that your ball valve is open and reconnect my water inlet to my pump and then I will crank it and see if it will work that way
@@KentuckyWashPros got it!!!
What pump do you have on your 670
General Pump TSF 2221
Well, not going to do that when it is in a lawn and garden mower without pulling the engine. Looks like electric it is.
Dang you was able to find a 10mm
last week couldn't find mine so i bought another one. when i finished up a repair i was doing i found it lol
Hope that’s the only issue with that motor.
Yes me too. I guess now only time will tell