PIC Assembly Language Tutorials: #0 - Shopping List & Mods
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- In anticipation of the PIC microcontroller assembly language tutorials, here is a shopping list of items required. Also, details of the PCB modifications required and the programmer cable that needs to be made up.
eBay links:
5V PIC12F675 Development Board Learning Board Breadboard www.ebay.com/it...
10Pcs 5S1P Silicon Balance Charger Cable Wire JST XH Connector Male/Female Plug www.ebay.com/it...
microcontrollers PICkit2 PIC KIT2 debugger programmer for PIC24 PIC32 PIC dsPIC www.ebay.com/it...
PICkit3 PIC KIT3 Debugger Programmer Emulator PIC Controller Development board www.ebay.com/it...
there has not been one video you've made that I haven't enjoyed even if it was beyond my comprehension at the time. Thank you for being you.
Cheers Zane :)
Hi Julian,
Got all the stuff now - poised and ready to go.
Alan
I really like the format and your approach, the mods, setting things up. At the beginning I thought PIC, not interested.
However after this little warm up, I'm in😀
Well done Julian. nailed it👍
Instead of heatshrinking every single wire put hot glue on your connector. It has several advantages, the most important you can't forget to put it on *before* soldering ;) . But the connector is also sturdier (the pins can't wiggle around), wires won't break (they would still do that even when heatshrunk when moved often) and you can't pull a single pin out of the connector.
What works best is to put a dab of hot glue on baking paper (hot glue won't stick to it if left to cool fully before trying to remove it), then push the connector in. Let it cool a little (don't pull of the paper yet) put a second dab on the connector and push a second piece of paper on top (or the other way round, dab on second paper, push second side of connector in). It helps if you do that on a cool surface or something that draws away heat quickly (some metal sheet, aluminium casing of a powerbank, heatsink,...). Excess hotglue on the side can easily be trimmed to size with a flush trim cutter. *Try it out!* With a little bit of practice you can make connectors that almost look injection molded.
yayayay finally. I waited for this. cheers Jullian. :)
ordering the items today... looking forward to the tutorials. Thanks Julian.
BTW, if you use a thin screwdriver and carefully pry the JIST plastic connector off of the pins, you can then use Dupont connectors and they grip perfectly.
Thanks Julian, this should be interesting.
I've ordered all the parts needed, and eagerly await the tutorial vids.
Great idea this #0 giving us the heads up to buy the hardware. I wll be following because I think you have some more assembly tricks up your sleve that I have never thought about, for example like one of the arithmetic operations you did in the LFSR code setting the carry flag by overflow (add 0xff) rather than bit-checking and setting. :)
Awesome I gotten all the materials, please keep the sequel going, although I do have to wait for the items to get to me.
Julian, "today's sponge" still cheers me up :) But really, once I found out about the brass shavings I never went back. They do make the tips live considerably longer and are much more convenient too. Maybe you should except for once and get some not from China.
Oh, and re snapping off pin-headers: I'm just using my thumb's fingernail... oh, sorry. Just forget about it.
Eagerly waiting for the next video!
Waiting for the assembly language tutorials !!
Thank you !!
Awesome mate!....Looking forward to bucket loads of information.... (that didn't put too much pressure on you did it?...) Thank you for all you do!
Seriously? I have been *hoping* you would do a PIC assembly tutorial! Thanks!
I have done some C on them, but it seems that to actually understand what's going on, you have to drop down to assembly.
Well now.. I have a bag of 24C256 and a hardcore homebrew AVR programmer built of necessity.. the cheap mega 2560's don't come with the necessary bootloader installed (ha ha).. so I'm going to follow along "sort of" and play about..
Might even try out my pickit2 thingy which I have only used to dump the contents of C64 rom's so far.
Watching Clive the other night playing with that industrial temperature controller my first thought was "temp controlled Antex".. hmmmm ;)
Congrats on the 100K .. looking forward to this series
Cool - my PICkit and microcontroller board arrived today
Ohh yes huge congratulations on the 100k👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Dean :)
Julian Ilett what brand is that wirestripper you use at 6:58 in the vid?
Isn't that the way it always is, you have to modify the the hardware to make it work right. In the past 15 years I have been using a 2.2K resister on the outputs to hardware for clk and data with the programmer direct to chip pin and if I don't use the reset pin and just pull it high, I put a 1n4148 from +5 to Vpp and then tie the programmer Vpp directly to chip, that way the cathode prevents a surge of Vpp voltage into the 5V rail
In case some people haven't ordered from China before. From the UK you are supposed to be able to order up to £15 without incurring import tax. Over this value and you may, not always, get a package stopped in customs and import tax added. The happened to me a few years ago and Royal Mail added their own handling charge on top of that. It's just something to be aware of. I try and keep it below £15, as most have £0 shipping, splitting over separate orders on different dates isn't too bad.
Jason Birch thanks for the advice on this, I did wonder if import tax would be added, so put me off buying item from China, until now.
twitter.com/FauthNiklas/status/821367627100684288
Congrats on 100k
I have this board. You do not have to modify it for the pickit to connect. Just use the cable that come with the pickit!
I like the custom sponges you provide for us. :-) You do cut them when they are dry and compressed, right?
I know, silly question.
isn't it easier to cut the trace going to the capacitor and resistor? between the pot and jumpers. is it connected anywhere else? then you don't need the wire anymore.
Im worrying abt design error issue as u mentioned .is it a big issue im new to all of this...
2) i bought this kit,but no manual received ,
Schematic and help is appreciated ....before modification .thanks in advance...!!!
I guess you have to wait 6 weeks until everybody received their boards and programmers :)
I dont think there are any issues because I have got the same one board and I only made reduction betwen jst and pin header. I just pluged in my pickit 3 and I already blinked LED. No cutting pcb traces needed
YES IM SO EXCITED. Also microchip has a good HPC curiosity board.
I take it you didn't have a gold elastic band then for 5% tolerance? Nice touch btw, it seems noone else has noticed it.
Congratulations on spotting the 100k easter egg! The silver band (10% tolerance) has another significance :)
Ah of course, 10 years on RUclips. Should have realised that. Congratulations on that and the 100k.
I was thinking more about the silver play button :)
I think we need more elastic bands for all these meanings :)
Very nice! Missed it first watch but congrats on the 100K :-D
I have some PICAXE chips lying around from old high school projects I think, never did any assembly stuff with them though
Awesome you started with #0. Very Hexadecimal of you. :-)
I think I'm ahead of the class. All items already here and jst cable already built. Do we have to wait 6 to 8 weeks for everyone else to get their bits Julian? :-)
Yes, I remember you already made up the cable :) No, I'll probably do the first tutorial (on clock sources) in a week or so, then produce new tutorials every couple of weeks.
I have got a 12F627 (and a lot more PIC's) and it only misses the AD converter. I will try to play along .... Still have to get a PICKITT3, used to use a Velleman kitt but it seems the software doesn't work any more....
Think you meant 12F629? the 627 is one of the 16F series.
right, the 12F629
Guess I know what I'm going to be buying this payday!!! ;)
Hi Julian, Will follow along with a PICkit 2 Low Pin Count Demo Board until parts arrive from the east. Have a authentic PICkit 2 a PICkit 3 clone both of which Microchip now call obsolete, am going to order there Curiosity board soon.,
good tutorial, Julian. I see you have the same JYE Tech DSO138 Oscope kit as me. It seems both of ours is a counterfeit. Do you think the firmware can be upgraded on a counterfeit DSO138 using authentic JYE Tech firmware?
Nice Julian! Been looking forward to this. :)
Julian - I have the PICkit3 on order. From your comments on later videos, I was wondering if the PICkit2 is still your choice of weapons? If not, I thought I might mention it in these comments. I know it's early in the series, but "LATE-COMERS" might want to check later videos in this series. ... Hope my order gets here soon! ;-)
Julian, I have used a PicKit 2 with MPLAB X v.2.15 (on Linux as it happens) without any apparent problems. I'm not very keen on the aesthetics of the latest version of MPLAB X myself and of course it is even more bloated than the earlier versions!
After going through the 3 or 4 videos you have on this board is am excited to follow an assembly tutorial with you, but the board is atrocious and I decided to build a proper board. fortunately I already have everything
Interesting that you say the PICKit 2 doesn't work with MPLAB X - I've been using it for the last year without being aware there was a problem with that! Googling it, it looks like there are plenty of people with problems so maybe I got lucky somehow?
I bought all the stuff needed, installed MPLABv8.92 and it cant see my pickit2 I am on Win10 the PC sees the device, can I have installed Pickit 2 v2.61 in bootloader mode it will connect and tells me there is no operating system on the pickit2 and to download it. I do this and then it goes to verify and reboot the pickit and it never connects. Starting to think I have a bad device
hi Julian,
i saw that you made a video about the oscilloscope kit, and i recently noticed that there is another version available - DSO150, could you take a look and say which one is more worth buying ?
thanks!
Looking promising. Thanks!
Julian, could you not have the right-angled pin-header come out the underside of the board, that way the pic-kit wouldn't foul with the power connector?
Yes, but it still leaves the programmer upside down.
Awesome I have been waiting for these just ordered my pic devboard. Are we going to need anything else for these tutorials that I should buy now (neopixels etc.)?
Been waiting for this and really looking forward to the series . What about actual PIC chips ? Any recommendations? Thanks
The development PCB comes with a PIC12F675 already fitted. So some spare 12F675 chips may be useful.
Ok thanks
If you do happen to be a Linux user there is an alternative to the MPLAB. Install gputils from your distribution's software repository and use Geany as your IDE. Any seasoned Linux user knows how to do this. Failing that you could always dump assembler altogether and install the excellent Great Cow BASIC.
I have everything on this list bar the pcb, and I don't think I will bother if it is so badly designed anyway. I got plenty of 12F675s and plenty of breadboards so I feel sure I can come up with a simpler solution. (Also given that it took 2 months for my alice order to arrive last time .................)
I have coded in PIC assembler before (I was one of the idiots who bought one of those bloody useless Velleman K8048 PIC experimenter boards a few years back) so I will be approaching this with more of a refresher course feel, to get my hand back in again.
Looking forward to the videos. Congratulations Julian on 100k and more, it is well deserved.
Thanks for the tip, installed Geany and gputils, now have to find out how it works....
I will try GCB as well, see if I can get it up and running. It seems to be more complicated to install.
Thanks
Love the idea, thanks Julian
@11:49 Just playing with my board which arrived recently. I have a PICKit3 and it seems to read happily at least. I agree that C4 breaks the rules. I think you could just remove if it it caused issues when programming. Might be a simpler mod to just take C4 off. You do need the RESET jumper in place during programming; all the other jumpers can be off.
I'm a bit disappointed... I added Power and nothing happened (apart from the POW LED3 lighting up)... couldn't it have been programmed with blink or something that does something when you press the buttons? It's not blank though... has... 1683 23FF 0090 0183 2BD8 at the start... then zillions if 3FFF.... then... 3FFF 3FFF 3FFF 3FFF 3FFF 3FFF 3FFF 3FFF 0183 2BE9 00A0 01A2 01A1 0820 0221 1803 2BE3 0AA1 2BDD 30C8 0AA2 0222 1803 0008 2BDC 30FF 0085 3007 0099 1683 019F 303C 0085 30FF 0095 303C 0085 30F4 1283 1005 1485 23DA 30F4 1405 1085 23DA 2BF5 342C at the end... OSCCAL 342C? Config Bits are... 01B4. Maybe it has a secret, very short, program?
Yes, there is a program in the PIC as supplied - press the two buttons to light the two LEDs
FWIW I've created a schematic and added it as a link to part#1. Share & Enjoy
I looked again and disassembled what I can see inside... in my case I found a program which alternately flashes the LED1 and LED2 lights with a delay (No button input)... the reason I did not see it was I had removed the jumpers to investigate the circuit!!! Doh! aardvarklabs.wordpress.com/2017/02/12/pic12f675-development-board-reversing/
awesome sir keep up the good work great fan sir
im new to the channel so i dont know but that soldering iron looks an awful lot like the one i once bought at poundland after seeing Big Clives video about it, but was scared to use because it feels like its plastic is going to melt in my hands/catch fire. if it is indeed poundland one can you recommend it if I have no other options
My soldering iron is an Antex CS18, made in England, not £1, more like £20. I'm constantly told to get a temperature controlled iron, but I haven't done so yet :)
aha ok thanks mate! (i feel like for 20 pounds they couldve included some temperature control maybe)
If you are on a low budget, I would suggest you go to Maplin and buy their cheapest iron (which may well be the Antex that Julian uses), they only sell OK irons.
If you can spend a little more, I would suggest you buy a temperature controlled iron. I have the N78AR, which I am very happy with.
I have no affiliation with Maplin, except as a customer.
Beware of some of the cheap Maplin soldering irons though. I bought one and it doesn't get hot enough to melt the lead-free solder it came with. It has absolutely no problems with proper lead/tin solder though. I took the first one back, thinking it was faulty. When the second one behaved exactly the same, I decided to try lead solder, which melts at 40c lower.
Hi Julian, instead of the Vpp mod where you (very annoyingly) have to remove the jumper all the time it would have been easier to do what's in the PicKit2 manual. Add a diode between the reset RC- circuit and the pin. You can still do that now, just add the diode under the jumper and NEVER add the jumper.
True, the diode can be added now that the mod has been done.
That is a really powerful 100k resistor you placed where you usually have your flashlight, where can I buy one? haha
Great, I'm ready for #1.
Good stuff. All parts ordered and on the way (after Chinese New Year/Spring Festival). I like your under the board mod. Very elegant. Is the schematic for that little board available so I can try and knock up a temporary one on stripboard?
I've not seen a schematic for it. Maybe I'll have a go at drawing a schematic ready for the first tutorial.
That would be great. I've had a good search and I can't find it anywhere. I'd also like to re-design it with your bug fix.
Julian, there are 2 tracks from that Vpp piin to GP3. Did you cut them both? If you did it seems like it would no longer work as a reset pin. If I am right (probably not) couldn't you just cut the outer track and remove the jumper when programming and leave it when you need a MCLR? (This would only work, of course, with you mod on the bottom). Please excuse my lack of knowledge, I am a CS person.
Well, never mind the above question. I see now. With both tracks cut we still have the track from the Pin to the resistor. DUH.
I can see that the 12F675 is not more than 0.5$ per chip. and the dev board is buggy and needs mods too. why not make a dev board ourselves. Jullian have you seen the schematic for the board so that by adding our mods we can make one? I've anyways order those 12F's
This is a popular idea - I'll draw up a schematic and show it in tutorial #1
thanks
thought about any modifications to your workshop?
Can't be bothered to wait for the board to arrive.. I'm sure I can build it on a little prototyping board.
Are you using this instead of more expeditious Arduino specifically because of Assembly language?
The ATTINY85 (8 pin) would be a better choice as it Arduino IDE compatible.
It costs
It's an Assebly course, and he has the PicKit2 and 3, so why use a AVR if you have the stuff lying around? And he seems to be familiar with PIC's
You can program any Arduino (or correctly the AVR on board of it) in assembler as well. But I think Julian just has much more experience in PIC assembly than AVR assembly and switching between architectures in assembly is much more involved than switching architectures while using C.
this crossed my mind also. I'm too much in the dark as to the reasoning. except that it is low cost & available hardware and software using assemble language.
Hey Julian, you've everything on the list apart from the chips! Anyone new to the field might like to know what to get! ;)
The PCB comes with a 12F675 already fitted
Right, but that's only one?
Could someone help me, please :D
I have lost a 1N4148 diode from the frequency counter kit. I don't know much about z diodes... would it be possible to replace the included one (label SC4148) with an other 1N4148 (label T4148) which i found?
Could you make up your own Pic board? They do like quite simple.
Sure. I'll draw a schematic of the demo PCB and talk about a DIY version in part 1.
Now that is a great idea, it'll save me a lot of guesswork.
how do we know julian does programming? he counts from 0
:)
I've been trying to program a version of my "quiz-tie-breaker" into the chip on that exact same circuit board but without success.
What I've discovered is that GPIO2 which is connected to key 1 on that board seems to simply not work. I've tried everything I can think of, including some fancy stuff about disabling the A to D converter on that pin since it seems that's activated by default following a reset, but nothing works. The pin stubbornly refuses to recognise that the button has been pressed.
I tested it by putting my multimeter across the GND and GPIO2/Key1 pins, and I measured +5V with the key open and 0V with it pressed, so the key itself is definitely working. It's just that the pin isn't detecting anything. I even tried bridging the GND pin of the chip to the GPIO2 pin of the chip with a bit of wire, but it doesn't work.
This is especially frustrating because GPIO5 which is connected to Key2 on the board does work just fine, both via the button and by using the bit of wire to connect the pin to GND.
I used a spare 12F675 to replace the one which came with the board and it shows exactly the same behaviour, so either it's a fault with that chip type or (more likely) I'm just missing something important. Maybe deactivating the A to D conversion requires following an exact order of instructions... or something.
Whatever the problem is, it's got me licked. At least for now.
+JasonMasters also disable the comparator
I already set bits CM0, CM1 and CM2 in CMCON to 1. The datasheet says this disables the comparator. It still doesn't work. Is there something else to do to disable the comparator? I've been searching the datasheet and I can't see anything else.
For reference, here is my latest unsuccessful attempt to read GPIO2 as a digital input. The program is supposed to just read GPIO5 (key 2) and GPIO2 (key 1) and then light both LEDs if either key is pressed and turn them off again once neither key is pressed.
There will be some "weirdness" in the way this is coded due to it being adapted from an earlier program which attempted to use the keys for my quiz game.
Edit: I noticed the btfss and btfsc instructions were reversed in checking GPIO2 and swapped them but it made no difference.
#include
__CONFIG _INTRC_OSC_NOCLKOUT & _WDTE_OFF & _PWRTE_ON & _CP_OFF
PORTSET EQU 0x3c ;GPIO bits 0 and 1 are to be outputs
ANSBITS EQU 0xfb ;ANSEL bits to set low (GPIO2)
REG1 EQU 0x20
org 0
;Setup begins here
goto pastint ;Jump past the interrupt service routine
org 4
retfie ;Just return from any interrupt
pastint
movlw 0x07
iorwf CMCON,F ;Comparator off
bsf STATUS,RP0 ;Use register bank 1
call 0x03ff ;Load the timer config value
movwf OSCCAL ;Set the oscillator calibration
movlw 0xdf
andwf OPTION_REG,F ;Turn off T0CS to select internal clock
movlw ANSBITS ;Load ANSEL bits to be low (GPIO2)
andwf ANSEL,F ;Make GPIO 2 digital
movlw PORTSET ;Which GPIO bits are inputs and which are outputs
movwf TRISIO ;Set up input/output settings
bcf STATUS,RP0 ;Use register bank 0
movlw 0xfe
andwf ADCON0,F ;Turn off the A to D converter
movlw 0x3f
movwf REG1 ;Load initial LED condition
restart
movlw 0x3 ;Port bits 0 & 1 both high
iorwf REG1,F
iorwf GPIO,F ;Set port values
mainloop
;bsf REG1,0
;bsf REG1,1
btfsc GPIO,GPIO2 ;Skip next if bit 2 is still set
bcf REG1,0
btfsc GPIO,GPIO2 ;Skip next if bit 2 is still set
bcf REG1,1
btfss GPIO,GPIO2
bsf REG1,0
btfss GPIO,GPIO2
bsf REG1,1
btfss GPIO,GPIO5 ;Skip next if bit 5 is still set
bcf REG1,1
btfss GPIO,GPIO5 ;Skip next if bit 5 is still set
bcf REG1,0
btfsc GPIO,GPIO5
bsf REG1,1
btfsc GPIO,GPIO5
bsf REG1,0
movf REG1,W
iorwf GPIO,F
;movlw 0x3
;iorwf REG1,F
goto mainloop ;If neither button is pressed, start again
end
As far as I remember, you just have to set ANSEL to zero and CMCON to 0x07 to avoid the read-modify-write problem on GPIO. You seem to be doing both correctly (with the appropriate bank selection) so for the moment I can't see where the problem is. But I'll be covering all this in my tutorials soon.
If I remember correctly, I tried setting ANSEL to all zeros using the clrf ANSEL,F command and all that did was to stop even GPIO5 from working, but I'll give it another try (later - it's the wee hours on this side of the globe and I should have been in bed hours ago)
What happens if I don't cut the track and place the wire? What happens if I just leave the board as normal?
It sometimes works - it worked while I was filming all of part 1
It seems like your clone programmer has some troubles programming the PIC when MCLR is connected with RC. I use PICKit3 (A genuine one from Microchip) as well as my home brew PICKit2 for programming PIC12F675 without any troubles. I cant imagine why that bypassing is needed when the VPP will raise the programming voltage to only 12V and VDD is at 5V. In between these two pins, the RC network for resetting is just a 10K resistor (Thats the value probably there) . So a merely 700 micro amp will be flowing though that, where as, it's in circuit programming (ICSP) so if someone uses this PIC for production unit, then how can they disconnect this RC part? could you please explain the reason behind it ?
"The MCLR/VPP pin is normally connected to an RC circuit. The pull-up resistor is tied to VDD and
a capacitor is tied to ground. This circuit can affect the operation of ICSP depending on the size
of the capacitor since the VPP voltage must be isolated from the rest of the circuit (in most cases
a resistor is not capable of isolating the circuit). It is, therefore, recommended that the circuit in
Figure 28-1 be used when an RC is connected to MCLR/VPP. The diode should be a Schottky-type
device. Another issue with MCLR/VPP is that when the PICmicro device is programmed,
this pin is driven to approximately 13V and also to ground. Therefore, the application circuit must
be isolated from this voltage provided by the programmer"
from: ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/31028a.pdf
Bought a bunch of this stuff a while back (just after the sellers left :( ). I reckon it'd be more fun to work out myself than with a tutorial though, so best of luck with this series, but it's not for me.
Julian, Looking at the close up at minute 12:30 I noticed the trace going to C4 appears to be cut as well. Was that intentional?
I cut that before I had properly worked out the modification, then soldered it back again :)
Been there; done that. Fine pitch layout is a pain trying to modify traces that are close together. Thanks for the reply. I'm looking forward to more in this thread since I was planning on buying a universal PIC programmer from Sparkfun ($69.00) that would program all the various flavors. I've haven't done any assembly language programming in a dog's age so I am a bit rusty and it would be a treat to see your technique.
can you put a link to the soft ware please
Julian do you want a challenge? Can a Pic have it's code read out and disassembled to see what it does? I picked up a little mystery box at a thrift shop that has 3 Pic microprocessors in it but it has no inputs or outputs and I have no idea what it does!
There are no markings, model numbers or anything on the box except that it just says Quantum Pro on the front. It's got a power jack on the rear and a switch that can be set in Hex between 0-F and just a power switch and volume control like knob on the front labeled Low and High with a green LED but no Inputs or Outputs and the LED doesn't even blink!
On the PC board there are some filters at the power input, 4 diodes and a 5 volt regulator. There are THREE Microchip Pic16F54 micro-controllers that connect to 3 transistors and 3 little transformers but they don't seem to do anything or go anywhere!
Why would a do nothing box need 3 micro processors?
There is nothing on the bottom of the PC board and no other parts but the solder joints and it doesn't have Wi-Fi or Bluetooth either so what could it possibly do?
Maybe it's a Quantum computer which would explain the name or possibly a Tesla free energy machine. It can't be a perpetual motion machine though because it uses power unless it puts more power back out than it uses which could explain the 3 transformers! Otherwise I have no idea.
Yes, you can read the contents of a PIC unless it's been code protected.
Why do you think a little box that seems to do nothing would need 3 of them?
There are Chinese sellers on Ebay who have USB Pic programmers for $6 that plug into a PC so why do you need a PicKit? Does it do something special?
Hey Julian, I successfully installed MPLAB 8.92 on my Linux box via Wine, and it appears to work.
Ah, that could be useful
My question is very important, I need to know this above all else. What are those plastic feet in the corners of the boards called? And do you have a quick Ebay link? Told you it was important.
I was looking for them on eBay recently, but didn't find them. I'll keep looking.
john smith
search for- pcb standoffs
Difficult to find, but "plastic PCB spacer" gets some results
www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=Snap-In+Posts
Thank you everybody. Thanks to your key words, I had a good look around and found something very similar at Ebay. I might get some adhesive ones too. Here is the link I got. www.ebay.com/itm/10-20-50pcs-Durable-Offwhite-Plastic-Push-Lock-Fasteners-PCB-Spacer-Support-/201747443983?var=&hash=item2ef915b10f:m:maxBnQxuAVd10xt0IKYy_Yw
Ordered parts, and thanks!
For an simple programmer search for JDM and use winpin800 to program the pic
You could also program the pic microcontrolder directly from an RPi no?
With some difficulty - for example, you'd have to generate the 13V programming voltage somehow.
Ow... 13v to program a pic microcontroler? I wasn't aware of that ^.^;
Still... a little voltage shifter and a 13v source for the pic side of things...
I'll have to look into this more
Ohh think I see my error.
Some pic chips suport low voltage programing.
It was my mistake to assume that was all of them ^.^;
I'll have a look see. I've been using my Pi zero as a avr programmer so I'd like to stick with that for pic chips too if I can ^.^
Very cool, and entirely done by building on other peoples hard work ^.^;
I went with AVR rather than PIC to start with for the very reason that there seem to be so much more in terms of tutorials and info on how to work with AVR chips :p
I was up and running in no time with nothing more than bits and pieces I already had to hand.
Thanks for the link. I shall see what I can put together.
I can't help but think that it would have been better to advocate the use of current tools, like MPLAB X, and also to discourage the use of counterfeit programming tools.
edit: PICkit 2 was open sourced by Microchip, but PICkit 3?
The schematics and firmware for both Pickit 2 & Pickit 3 are freely available in the public domain so how are they counterfeits? Anyone with the requisite skills can build either of them.
There are schematics available for many devices, but this doesnt mean they are free for all to reproduce and market under the same name and trademarks as the original product.
You are correct that PICkit 2 was open sourced by Microchip, I did find several forum posts etc to back that up, but I cant seem to find anything to suggest PICkit 3 has had the same treatment.
Over all I liked it. But really wished you'd pick an ARM instead of a PIC. They are not only cheaper (< US$2 for a stm32f103c8t6 board), they are more relevant. ARM has a much richer (and cleaner) instruction set and the tools are lower cost and cross-platform.
Rick, This is an assembly language tutorial. ARM is 32bit and far more complex to program in assembly, by keeping with an 8 bit microcontroller and the PIC with only 50 odd instructions it's much easier for a novice to understand. He's also not using the latest IDE and C language for the same reasons. They are great chips but far more complex overall.
Yeah, good luck trying to program an ARM chip using free software. And reading the datasheets.
What wire stripper are you using and is it any good?
Forget it....I just seen "Julian's Postbag: #82 " video.
Looking forward to these tutorials. PLEASE do not start them too soon re gathering the ingredients and postage time from China etc. Ta.
I'll take it reasonably slow. Part 1 may be in a week or so, but by part 2, you should have received your bits from China :)
Julian Ilett Have bought 2 of everything from different sellers because I am bound to fry things and some may come quicker than others. Wife regards you as a bad influence. :)
AVR: 10€ programmer
STM32 Discovery: 25€ dev board (32 bit) with integrated programmer
PIC: 60€ (in germany)
u see the problem?
I was thinking the same. why would someone use the pic boards. when these are so costly. arduino nano clones can be found for 3$ shipping included. not only this, the cheap ESP modules can be found for 3$ too with wifi capable. and here the board costs 7$ and 8$ for programmer with lesser community support as compared to arduino and esp.
is it too much of a problem, even for europeans ?
funny all the germans I talk to manage to get stuff from ebay just fine....
I don't like buying stuff on ebay. 90% of the items get shipped from china and it takes ages for them to arrive.
If all of the shops in your area started increasing their prices by 1000%, what would you do? Would you just stay silent and drive 20km to a different store with better prices just to get some food?
For cutting PCB tracks, i find this to be extremely useful: www.rapidonline.com/copper-track-cutter-for-stripboard-and-prototype-boards-550885 (I'm not affiliated with RO). The only drawback is that if you have 2 tracks closer than 3.5mm, you have to use something else (I have a pin/drill vise for smaller diametres, but I hardly use it).
The PIC12F675 is a really awful part it only really has a ADC and a couple of timers and GPIO pins. People might also be interested in shopping for a 12F1840 or 16F18313, these devices are pin compatible and have some much more exciting internal features. Obviously keeping the PIC12F675 for the tutorial part.
I may look at other parts at the end of the tutorial.
where are the rest of the tutoral videos! !!!!! (hehehe)
JST connectors are still metric!
That's a pickit3 clone, which some say it's just a pickit2 with some compatibility stuff added. The original is $50. I wanted to buy a clone but after reading some opinions I've changed my mind.
all these modifications will scare people that are new to MCUs. I should have suggested you to design a proto board.
or just use a breadboard, easy enough....
Well yes. Breadboard would do the job but as a beginner you don't want to mess with too many cables/connections at once.
Hold on...What does the dang thing do?
Controls components and devices.
I would rather use Code::Blocks and GCC compiler for PIC to do the donkey work.
What are the advantages of PIC ? Expensive programmer, expensive dev boards...
Atmels are cheap + huge community + very cheap programmer.
STM32 are very cheap and widely used in the industry + very cheap programmer.
ESP's are cheap and dont even need a programmer, or a very cheap one first time.
Then PIC ... Why ?
Expensive programmer? My pickit2 clone cost me less than a fiver!
TheKetsa hipster programming basically
Can't find a pickit3 for less than 10$, all other chips mentionned can be programmed with sub 1$ stuff.
Well, I'll still buy this stuff and follow the tuto.
TheKetsa try mikrochips curiosity board
TheKetsa you do realise atmel and microchip are the same company now?
Where the fuck is Alice??
ebuTuoY Chinese New Year
Who Alice??
she fell down the rabbithole
somewhere in the centre of Australia
Jason I think my joke goes where not who because Alice is away!
well i am out of luck Linux user + pickit2 :(
I am also a Linux user with a Pickit 2 and I code for PIC microcontrollers using both! The gputils assembler is compatible with mpasm.
But its PIC. Its like teaching snot to climb back up the wall :P
i'd watch that video :)
That can be arranged. Ewe. But doable.
TheProCactus Don't know about that, but I've been in a place where rain and water droplets goes vertically up, as well as down...
Cut towards your chum, not your thumb m8!
does anyone else reckon RUclips catchphrases are terrible?