Man I thought it was really cool that you put the cement with your hands to make the counter. I sometimes used to do some things with the cement with just my hands too, but I was ashamed to do this in front of others, I was afraid that they would think badly of me and I felt that it was practically a crime to do it this way 😅 but it's good to see that there are professionals who also do it this way and their work also turned out great! 👍🏽💯
I am using your form making method for sure. I had no idea the z forms were so expensive. For my kitchen I need 31 feet in front bull-nose or block forms alone. Not including backsplash and around sink. Your way makes it more do-able. I am so happy I found your video
Like the plastic corner and late steel trowel technique. I usually hit with a polish pad for that cream polish molted look but that seems way easier if you can hang out or come back. From someone in the industry thanks for sharing. Always something you can learn no matter how long you have been doing it.
Thanks Michael! I watch RUclips to learn stuff about our industry all the time too. I’m glad it was helpful. 👍🏻 I prefer pre-cast to cast in place. I didn’t mind this one because it was at my office…but this would be a long day if i had to sit around waiting on the concrete at someone’s house. Ha. I really like the the way the troweled finish came out though.
this is so cool!! I have been looking for videos to show a no-dust way to do pour-in-place concrete countertops and this one is it! So cool -- I didn't know you can remove the molds when the concrete is still setting, so then you get the tapered edge without sanding. thank you so much for making this!! going to give it a go in my kitchen :)
Cool vid. This reminds me of our current project. Cabinets are 35yr old oak getting painted white by others. In the meantime I’m preparing to use the countertop solution a form system hence the reason I’m watching vids. You’re using plywood whereas their system uses Durock or something similar. I too will need to reinforce our older cabinets to support the heavier counters. I’m using their white concrete formulated for counters with their fiberglass scrimm or whatever it’s called. Hoping the project isn’t a bust, yours came out nicely for sure. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I used plywood because I knew I was going to cover it with plastic to keep the inside of the cabinets clean. That sounds like a fun project. Let me know how it goes. 👍🏻👍🏻
For the wall side of the mold , what did you use ? Was it plexiglas? I didnt catch it in the video. And did you leave it in place permanently? Thank you for a reply , we are doing this project this next month !
Hi Brandon. We just used white pvc lattice strips from Lowes. Yes we left it permanently because the tile on the back wall hid it. Good luck with the project. Let me know how it goes.
Excellent tutorial guys, appreciated, just one thing I'm confused about. Others use concrete which has reinforcement rocks in the mix, as with a concrete slab. It appears you have used cement, some plasticiser, water and sand for the mix and used some matting for the reinforcement, can you just confirm please?
Thanks! Yes that is correct. Weve switched to just using pre bagged mix though. The mix from concretecountertopsolutions.com is probably my favorite. You just add water to the mix. All admixtures are already in the mix.
What was your mix ratio? Or better yet, what recipe are you using? Where I live, my options are limited to your basic powder, and we grind our aggregates to whatever size we need for the job. Your mix looks a lot darker and also without stones. I need to put a new layer of concrete on kitchen countertops because I cannot match the color tone simply by grinding them and resealing. Any advice? With the second layer, what's the thinnest you recommend going and would I use reinforcement? Thanks!
Great info on building forms, everyone is using the snap-off forms but they're expensive. Two questions, why use plywood when everyone seems to be using backer board? Second question, what are your thoughts on spraying the front edges to get a smooth finish like you do with GFRC? In essence, spray along the PVC form boards you're using and then fill? Seems like the edges are always rough looking.
I’m not sure why people use backer board. I personally prefer to use wood & plastic so the countertops will be easier to remove if you ever wanted to change them out in the future. You could spray the pvc… but it’s probably not necessary. One advantage of forming the sides vs. the snap forms is that you can strip the forms before the concrete has set up… so you should be able to rub/trowel the sides pretty smooth. If you don’t strip the forms until after the concrete is hard, then I do think spraying the sides is probably a good idea.
Can you do this over tiled countertops? I tiled over my laminate countertops about 15 years ago. I need a new look and do not want to tear the countertops out.
I hope this isn’t a stupid question, but you mentioned using a magnesium float? Is there something about magnesium that is different to any other metal? First rate video, thank you!
There are no stupid questions. Ha. We use a mag float because it doesn’t close the pores of the surface up, which lets water continue to evaporate. As concrete sets up, bleed water continues to come to the surface. We don’t switch to a steel trowel until that water stops coming to the top.
Hi Tim, I want to do a 12” overhang on an island, wondering if you would recommend doing pour in place or a mould? Also, what would you use to reinforce it? Thanks!
Hey Tim. Love your videos. Do you have any breakfast bar videos? I'm doing a pour in place countertop that's gonna overhang 15" on one side. In the past I've just used rebar and went with 2" thick concrete. I'd like to make it 1 1/4" and use a scrim/chop strand mix. Suggestions?
Thanks! I think the skrim we used in this video would work for you. You could just use two layers to give it extra support. You could also add glass fiber to the bottom 2/3rds of the mix.
It really looks good. Don’t rush. Do your best work always. I didn’t see any vibration. Was it done and not included? Always vibrate. I’m just as critical on myself. I’ve done from small cosmetic skim coats to 1,500 yard pours for permanent foundations for 3,600 Ton-capacity cranes. I don’t know everything, but I know a lot. I came here to learn. Thank you for the high quality video. Great job.
Hey. Thanks! I appreciate the encouragement. We used to vibrate counters when we poured traditional Portland + sand + gravel mixes. Our current mix is sand and cement with additives. It’s very similar to a self consolidating mix so we don’t vibrate it.
That sounds fantastic. I’m gonna be doing my entire master suite in concrete since hurricane damage resulted in the removal of our (actually not-bad-looking) cultured marble countertops and shower. I’m considering adding some purposely-placed aggregate for a terrazzo-like effect. Any thoughts or considerations?
That sounds cool. You should look into using GFRC so that you can make the panels thin. I just made a countertop for my house with aggregate added to the face of the mold. I’m working on the video now...should be ready in January. I have a video from 2 years ago on my channel that covers the GFRC process... the new video uses similar methods, only we sprayed glue into the forms and broadcast agg before we started. Let me know how the project turns out. It sounds like a fun one.
@@TimDCVA that sounds almost exactly what I had in mind, except for a pour-in-place build with a solid amount of surface grinding. (Glue and broadcast agains the edge forms).
The more water you add, the more likely it is to crack… so we don’t like to add a lot of water. We usually get a more flowable mix by adding more water reducer / plasticizer, but that also slows the set time down a little. I knew I was going to be waiting all day on it to set up so I didn’t want to make it any worse by adding something that was going to slow it down.
How many pounds of concrete did you use on the long top. Just wondering how heavy an 8' piece would be if I did it on saw horses? It will be my first time. It looks a little to messy to do it place. Thank you!
It is messy. That’s the primary reason I don’t like to do these for customers in place. 50lbs of concrete covers 5 square feet @ 1” thick. So it would be around 225lbs if you cast it 1.5” thick.
@@TimDCVA thanks. I am also concerned about the gap at the bottom of the mold that concrete will drip inside the structure since there are gaps. I was thinking to fill it with mesh tape and thinset prior to pouring to fill the gaps.
Thanks! This is our GFRC mix, which doesn’t contain any gravel. I should have used glass fiber in the bottom 2/3 of the countertop but we didn’t have any in stock. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get it shipped in during the lockdown so we just moved forward without it.
@@TimDCVA guess I just had one last night, but now i need a good mix design with the ratios for sand, portland, polymer and the amount of fiber. Would buy premixed but nothing available locally unfortunately
have you ever tried making thinner counter tops with Ardex PCT4 coloured to what you like..I use it for floors and have not yet had a single crack..I seal it with PU penatratives from DCP UK
Do you prefer to do it in place or by mold, and if using GFRC, how would that change the process in place because you normally spray a cover coat on the bottom of the mold which is now on top
Ha. It’s not that heavy when it’s only 3/4” thick in the middle. The sink thing is an issue though. Lots of people will cast them as one piece...but it stresses me out carrying it in like that. I usually put a seam somewhere near the sink so there’s not so much tension on it during installation.
Hi Tim, Love the vid, gonna try this myself on new cabinetry. What do you you mean by "you would want to brace this board down to the ground" for the overhang?
Thanks! My cabinets were old so I just screwed a board to the face of the cabinet to create the 1” overhang on the edge of the counters. On new cabinets you would be better off to just brace it all the way to the ground so you don’t have to put screws through the front of your new cabinets.
@@TimDCVA thanks for clarifying mate. How would I go about bracing the overhang mold to the ground? What tool would be best for the job? And any examples of this? Appreciate your prompt reply
I don’t have any examples of it… but just a 2x4 down to the ground to hold it up is all we would do. You just have to get creative when you are bracing them up to keep the face form from pushing away from the counters too. It’s different on every job.
I have a small light textured rubber stamp i was going to use on the top. Is it worth the mess since id have to use a powder release then or is there another method for textured surface?
You can use liquid release and color with an antiquing agent on stamped concrete. I’ve never tried that on a countertop. It might have too much texture though.
@TimDCVA that's right, liquid release. And yeah, I think you're right, a counter top should be smooth. I'm gonna make a table to practice on first. Maybe that could be textured. Thanks for responding.
I love this but I was wondering if you could add a color in it to make it look like marbling effect with out having to do a resin coat. (Like Stonecoat) I don't want you have to deal with the issues that resin has. Or another idea is to make it look like wood. Please let me know your ideas on these as to how to do them. Thank you! ❤️😸
Hey Tim, I purchased your concrete recipe several months ago. How do you go about pricing for doing custom tops? I am adding this to my construction services.
Pricing is really hard on countertops. (No pun intended). Ha. It’s a wide range that changes based on how complex the job is. Anywhere between $80-$120 per square foot. Email dm me on IG and I can explain.
We didn’t do anything too spectacular on this one. It was filmed during the pandemic and I didn’t want to have to wait on materials...so we just used whatever we had in the shop. This particular mix is 50/50 white Portland & sand with Buddy Rhodes polymer additive & glass scrim. I would have liked to use glass fiber to the mix ...but we didn’t have any in stock.
I’m not sure that it can be avoided if you use fiber. I would suggest not using fiber in the very top layer. If you do use fiber, consider using PVA fibers because they are really fine and should be less visible in the finished product.
Is this countertop grease stain proof? I had once concrete in bathroom and and even though it was sealed it had a grease stain on it from body oil... How to prevent that?
A few reasons… I didn’t want to have to deal with a lot of bleed water in a finished kitchen. I also didn’t want to wait all night for it to set up. Lastly, using an excessive amount of water makes it more likely that the concrete will crack.
@@TimDCVA less material so less carbon footprint and HELLO ITS THE COOLEST THING TO HAPPEN TO CONCRETE SINCE CEMENT. lol i have no clue :P just mixxed up my first batch of cement a couple of days ago so been youtubing n been obsessing on aircrete. n just goofin off the initial question was a bit of joke too. but thanks for the vid
Dude you need to give these people their money back and learn to finish concrete. Maybe if you didn't openly admit to cutting corners and forgetting half the materials it would have turned out half decent. You don't run a steel trowel when it's cock stiff, its so patchy (especially noticeable when you "seal" it). Please consider learning the correct process and techniques before you deliver such atrocities. I hope you didn't get paid.
You must have missed the part where I said that it was the kitchen at my office. I like the way it looks when we trowel it late. It’s just personal preference. I get that it’s not for everyone. I do prefer pre-cast concrete countertops though.
Man I thought it was really cool that you put the cement with your hands to make the counter. I sometimes used to do some things with the cement with just my hands too, but I was ashamed to do this in front of others, I was afraid that they would think badly of me and I felt that it was practically a crime to do it this way 😅 but it's good to see that there are professionals who also do it this way and their work also turned out great! 👍🏽💯
I am using your form making method for sure. I had no idea the z forms were so expensive. For my kitchen I need 31 feet in front bull-nose or block forms alone. Not including backsplash and around sink. Your way makes it more do-able. I am so happy I found your video
Like the plastic corner and late steel trowel technique. I usually hit with a polish pad for that cream polish molted look but that seems way easier if you can hang out or come back.
From someone in the industry thanks for sharing. Always something you can learn no matter how long you have been doing it.
Thanks Michael! I watch RUclips to learn stuff about our industry all the time too. I’m glad it was helpful. 👍🏻
I prefer pre-cast to cast in place. I didn’t mind this one because it was at my office…but this would be a long day if i had to sit around waiting on the concrete at someone’s house. Ha. I really like the the way the troweled finish came out though.
this is so cool!! I have been looking for videos to show a no-dust way to do pour-in-place concrete countertops and this one is it! So cool -- I didn't know you can remove the molds when the concrete is still setting, so then you get the tapered edge without sanding. thank you so much for making this!! going to give it a go in my kitchen :)
Great job Tim. I also love the look of a hard troweled surface.
Thanks! 😊🙏🏻
Also subscribed because your from Virginia!! VA fam!
🙌🏼
Cool vid. This reminds me of our current project. Cabinets are 35yr old oak getting painted white by others. In the meantime I’m preparing to use the countertop solution a form system hence the reason I’m watching vids. You’re using plywood whereas their system uses Durock or something similar. I too will need to reinforce our older cabinets to support the heavier counters. I’m using their white concrete formulated for counters with their fiberglass scrimm or whatever it’s called. Hoping the project isn’t a bust, yours came out nicely for sure. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
I used plywood because I knew I was going to cover it with plastic to keep the inside of the cabinets clean.
That sounds like a fun project. Let me know how it goes. 👍🏻👍🏻
Exceptional video. Gracias ~
Thanks!
For the wall side of the mold , what did you use ? Was it plexiglas? I didnt catch it in the video. And did you leave it in place permanently? Thank you for a reply , we are doing this project this next month !
Hi Brandon. We just used white pvc lattice strips from Lowes. Yes we left it permanently because the tile on the back wall hid it.
Good luck with the project. Let me know how it goes.
really well done video in every way, thank you
Thank you so much! 🙏🏻
how long did you wait to remove the forms so its still workable but didnt fall apart???
Great Job Tim!
Thanks Ernie!
Excellent tutorial guys, appreciated, just one thing I'm confused about. Others use concrete which has reinforcement rocks in the mix, as with a concrete slab. It appears you have used cement, some plasticiser, water and sand for the mix and used some matting for the reinforcement, can you just confirm please?
Thanks!
Yes that is correct.
Weve switched to just using pre bagged mix though. The mix from concretecountertopsolutions.com is probably my favorite.
You just add water to the mix. All admixtures are already in the mix.
What was your mix ratio? Or better yet, what recipe are you using? Where I live, my options are limited to your basic powder, and we grind our aggregates to whatever size we need for the job. Your mix looks a lot darker and also without stones. I need to put a new layer of concrete on kitchen countertops because I cannot match the color tone simply by grinding them and resealing. Any advice? With the second layer, what's the thinnest you recommend going and would I use reinforcement? Thanks!
Great info on building forms, everyone is using the snap-off forms but they're expensive. Two questions, why use plywood when everyone seems to be using backer board? Second question, what are your thoughts on spraying the front edges to get a smooth finish like you do with GFRC? In essence, spray along the PVC form boards you're using and then fill? Seems like the edges are always rough looking.
I’m not sure why people use backer board. I personally prefer to use wood & plastic so the countertops will be easier to remove if you ever wanted to change them out in the future.
You could spray the pvc… but it’s probably not necessary. One advantage of forming the sides vs. the snap forms is that you can strip the forms before the concrete has set up… so you should be able to rub/trowel the sides pretty smooth.
If you don’t strip the forms until after the concrete is hard, then I do think spraying the sides is probably a good idea.
That’s you should melamine instead of plywood for forms. The white smooth finish looks great.
Awesome, subbed
I’ve seen people cover existing granite, but my question is are you able to remove the concrete from granite later?
I’m not sure. I don’t have any experience with that.
Can you do this over tiled countertops? I tiled over my laminate countertops about 15 years ago. I need a new look and do not want to tear the countertops out.
Nice work! What was the mix you used ratio wise? Looking to pour a top in an outdoor graden
I hope this isn’t a stupid question, but you mentioned using a magnesium float? Is there something about magnesium that is different to any other metal? First rate video, thank you!
There are no stupid questions. Ha.
We use a mag float because it doesn’t close the pores of the surface up, which lets water continue to evaporate.
As concrete sets up, bleed water continues to come to the surface. We don’t switch to a steel trowel until that water stops coming to the top.
What did you put in for the sink cut out
Hi Tim, I want to do a 12” overhang on an island, wondering if you would recommend doing pour in place or a mould? Also, what would you use to reinforce it? Thanks!
I prefer pre-fab counters. A GFRC mix would be plenty strong for that. I have a video that explains it…
Concrete Countertops Masterclass (DIY) - From Start to Finish using GFRC
ruclips.net/video/iu8v_0HPigc/видео.html
Hey Tim. Love your videos. Do you have any breakfast bar videos? I'm doing a pour in place countertop that's gonna overhang 15" on one side. In the past I've just used rebar and went with 2" thick concrete.
I'd like to make it 1 1/4" and use a scrim/chop strand mix. Suggestions?
Thanks! I think the skrim we used in this video would work for you. You could just use two layers to give it extra support. You could also add glass fiber to the bottom 2/3rds of the mix.
It really looks good. Don’t rush. Do your best work always. I didn’t see any vibration. Was it done and not included? Always vibrate. I’m just as critical on myself. I’ve done from small cosmetic skim coats to 1,500 yard pours for permanent foundations for 3,600 Ton-capacity cranes. I don’t know everything, but I know a lot. I came here to learn. Thank you for the high quality video. Great job.
Hey. Thanks! I appreciate the encouragement.
We used to vibrate counters when we poured traditional Portland + sand + gravel mixes.
Our current mix is sand and cement with additives. It’s very similar to a self consolidating mix so we don’t vibrate it.
That sounds fantastic. I’m gonna be doing my entire master suite in concrete since hurricane damage resulted in the removal of our (actually not-bad-looking) cultured marble countertops and shower. I’m considering adding some purposely-placed aggregate for a terrazzo-like effect. Any thoughts or considerations?
That sounds cool.
You should look into using GFRC so that you can make the panels thin.
I just made a countertop for my house with aggregate added to the face of the mold. I’m working on the video now...should be ready in January.
I have a video from 2 years ago on my channel that covers the GFRC process... the new video uses similar methods, only we sprayed glue into the forms and broadcast agg before we started.
Let me know how the project turns out. It sounds like a fun one.
@@TimDCVA that sounds almost exactly what I had in mind, except for a pour-in-place build with a solid amount of surface grinding. (Glue and broadcast agains the edge forms).
Do you always use such a dry mix? I’ve watched other videos and they were much wetter.
What’s the benefit of doing one or another?
The more water you add, the more likely it is to crack… so we don’t like to add a lot of water.
We usually get a more flowable mix by adding more water reducer / plasticizer, but that also slows the set time down a little.
I knew I was going to be waiting all day on it to set up so I didn’t want to make it any worse by adding something that was going to slow it down.
Does the sealer burn when you put a hot pan on it?
Have you experienced any cracking throughout your years of installation? and if so what was the remedy?
Yes. Concrete counters crack sometimes. There aren’t really any great remedies. You can get caulk color matched to the counter to try to conceal it.
How many pounds of concrete did you use on the long top. Just wondering how heavy an 8' piece would be if I did it on saw horses? It will be my first time.
It looks a little to messy to do it place. Thank you!
It is messy. That’s the primary reason I don’t like to do these for customers in place.
50lbs of concrete covers 5 square feet @ 1” thick. So it would be around 225lbs if you cast it 1.5” thick.
Thank you!!
You’re welcome.
One final question i have, if I use the fiber mesh reinforcing - what is the maximum overhang with a 2" thick slab?
I’m not really sure what the answer is to that. Sorry.
@@TimDCVA thanks for being honest. I'll stick with 1 1/2" should be ok
nothing about the back piece of wood used to screed the level. Where is it? Left in there? can you see it?
It’s still there. It’s hidden by the backsplash tile we installed.
What holds the back when you trowel
Hi Tim, the back wall behind my outdoor counter is uneven stucco. What do you recommend for the form against the stucco wall?
I’m not really sure. I would probably just pour right up against it… just mark a line so you know how high the concrete needs to go.
@@TimDCVA thanks. I am also concerned about the gap at the bottom of the mold that concrete will drip inside the structure since there are gaps. I was thinking to fill it with mesh tape and thinset prior to pouring to fill the gaps.
Tim, Is there any gravel in this concrete mix ? Or since you usually add fiber you don’t typically add gravel ? Nice video
Thanks! This is our GFRC mix, which doesn’t contain any gravel. I should have used glass fiber in the bottom 2/3 of the countertop but we didn’t have any in stock. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get it shipped in during the lockdown so we just moved forward without it.
TimDCVA ok awesome. Can you do a red wine spill test please in your next video lol 🤓
@@TimDCVA well that answers my first question, thanks!!
What’s your second question?
@@TimDCVA guess I just had one last night, but now i need a good mix design with the ratios for sand, portland, polymer and the amount of fiber. Would buy premixed but nothing available locally unfortunately
have you ever tried making thinner counter tops with Ardex PCT4 coloured to what you like..I use it for floors and have not yet had a single crack..I seal it with PU penatratives from DCP UK
Do you prefer to do it in place or by mold, and if using GFRC, how would that change the process in place
because you normally spray a cover coat on the bottom of the mold which is now on top
I prefer using a mold...traditional GFRC. I can’t imagine doing the process in this video on top of someone’s brand new cabinets.
@@TimDCVA good luck carrying a massive slab in that weighs nearly 800lbs all while without it snapping at the sink.
Ha. It’s not that heavy when it’s only 3/4” thick in the middle.
The sink thing is an issue though. Lots of people will cast them as one piece...but it stresses me out carrying it in like that. I usually put a seam somewhere near the sink so there’s not so much tension on it during installation.
@@TimDCVA seams at the sink are for amateurs
@@j8ke937 that's why you add rebar mesh if you're doing a sink cutout dimbo
Hi Tim, Love the vid, gonna try this myself on new cabinetry. What do you you mean by "you would want to brace this board down to the ground" for the overhang?
Thanks!
My cabinets were old so I just screwed a board to the face of the cabinet to create the 1” overhang on the edge of the counters.
On new cabinets you would be better off to just brace it all the way to the ground so you don’t have to put screws through the front of your new cabinets.
@@TimDCVA thanks for clarifying mate. How would I go about bracing the overhang mold to the ground? What tool would be best for the job? And any examples of this? Appreciate your prompt reply
I don’t have any examples of it… but just a 2x4 down to the ground to hold it up is all we would do. You just have to get creative when you are bracing them up to keep the face form from pushing away from the counters too. It’s different on every job.
I have a small light textured rubber stamp i was going to use on the top. Is it worth the mess since id have to use a powder release then or is there another method for textured surface?
You can use liquid release and color with an antiquing agent on stamped concrete. I’ve never tried that on a countertop. It might have too much texture though.
@TimDCVA that's right, liquid release. And yeah, I think you're right, a counter top should be smooth. I'm gonna make a table to practice on first. Maybe that could be textured. Thanks for responding.
I love this but I was wondering if you could add a color in it to make it look like marbling effect with out having to do a resin coat. (Like Stonecoat) I don't want you have to deal with the issues that resin has. Or another idea is to make it look like wood. Please let me know your ideas on these as to how to do them. Thank you! ❤️😸
Yes. Some people pour the first coat instead of spraying it….and they will use multiple colors to mimic marble.
Not sure about the wood.
Bet you could come up with a wood grain concrete stamp of sorts
Is this still holding up with that skinny piece in front of the sink?
Yes it is. 👍🏻
Cool, I suppose the sink should help hold it too
Hey Tim, I purchased your concrete recipe several months ago. How do you go about pricing for doing custom tops? I am adding this to my construction services.
Pricing is really hard on countertops. (No pun intended). Ha.
It’s a wide range that changes based on how complex the job is. Anywhere between $80-$120 per square foot. Email dm me on IG and I can explain.
@@TimDCVA What's your instagram? I have a project going in this week.
It’s @timdcva
Love this video! What is the ratios for the mixture?
Thanks! Approximately 50% cement to 50% sand plus additives.
Do you mind sharing the additives used?
Like it!
Hello Tim, thanks for the video. Can you share your recepie for the mix you used. I’m looking for the strongest mix possible.
We didn’t do anything too spectacular on this one. It was filmed during the pandemic and I didn’t want to have to wait on materials...so we just used whatever we had in the shop.
This particular mix is 50/50 white Portland & sand with Buddy Rhodes polymer additive & glass scrim. I would have liked to use glass fiber to the mix ...but we didn’t have any in stock.
@@TimDCVA what made it so dark?
We added black pigment to make it a medium shade of gray.
@@TimDCVA so i plan on using the fiber particles in mine, how do i avoid the fuzz that will stick up on the surface?
I’m not sure that it can be avoided if you use fiber.
I would suggest not using fiber in the very top layer. If you do use fiber, consider using PVA fibers because they are really fine and should be less visible in the finished product.
What sealer are y'all using?
Buddy Rhodes PS1
Is this countertop grease stain proof? I had once concrete in bathroom and and even though it was sealed it had a grease stain on it from body oil... How to prevent that?
You had the wrong sealer in your bathroom. Yours had a water based sealer. You need a solvent based sealer or a wax to prevent grease stains.
Why do you mix the concrete so thick? Why not mix thin enough you can just pour it in so it levels itself and makes the job go a lot easier?
A few reasons… I didn’t want to have to deal with a lot of bleed water in a finished kitchen. I also didn’t want to wait all night for it to set up. Lastly, using an excessive amount of water makes it more likely that the concrete will crack.
What products you would recommend for hot pott how to reduce mantenaicement
This shouldn't have been sealed with this product, it should have been sealed with concrete wax.
What is sealer ??
Buddy Rhodes PS1
I did not see you vibrate that benchtop once!
How long did you wait to pull the forms?
We pulled the forms once the concrete was firm enough to trowel...probably 3-4 hours after we poured it.
$ 10.000 Dollars !!! The Machine !!!!
He didn’t show the finished concrete countertop which os very important on such video like this.
Yes I did. 8:50
Very dry mix...???
Yes. Less water = stronger mix.
why arent you using aircrete?
I’m not sure what the reason would be to use it. Weight isn’t an issue when the concrete is only 1.25” thick.
@@TimDCVA less material so less carbon footprint and HELLO ITS THE COOLEST THING TO HAPPEN TO CONCRETE SINCE CEMENT. lol i have no clue :P just mixxed up my first batch of cement a couple of days ago so been youtubing n been obsessing on aircrete. n just goofin off the initial question was a bit of joke too. but thanks for the vid
I like this because I didn't want to waste $ on a form the whole kit would be over 500
Thanks!
This seems ridiculously difficult.
Y so dry though
I hope the customer doesn’t see this, the amount of times you said you did it too early, in a rush, wanted to get done… my god 😂
I think you missed the part where I said it was the kitchen at my shop. Ha.
@@TimDCVAWell, I hope you didn't watch this video, then.
Wow.. they are in a hurry and just want to get it done. And that is why I try to do my own work. Not a contractor I would hire..
Did you miss the part that it’s the kitchen at my shop?
so...your in a hurry and didnt have the right supplies? hope the customers liked your job
You must have missed the part where I said it was for my office.
That is a terrible job. Air bubbles. Wonky edges. Uneven surface. The approach is ok but the finishing is just very poor.
I think they came out pretty nice. 2 years later and they still look good. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Dude you need to give these people their money back and learn to finish concrete. Maybe if you didn't openly admit to cutting corners and forgetting half the materials it would have turned out half decent. You don't run a steel trowel when it's cock stiff, its so patchy (especially noticeable when you "seal" it). Please consider learning the correct process and techniques before you deliver such atrocities. I hope you didn't get paid.
You must have missed the part where I said that it was the kitchen at my office.
I like the way it looks when we trowel it late. It’s just personal preference. I get that it’s not for everyone. I do prefer pre-cast concrete countertops though.