I just picked one of these beauties up for $30, and I’m so excited. Your thorough review of how to set it up and get going is super helpful-like having my dad back beside me, telling me the ways of good old Craftsman tools. Nothing better! Thank you!
Same as Delia, I picked mine up pre-pandemic for 25 dollars and in incredible shape - used once then stored away for years resulting in rotted tires no blade. But bearings, bed, everything is in superb shape. I picked p a 62 inch blade because it said three wheeler - welp. I see this guy takes a 56-7/8" blade so I ordered one from Amazon and will wait for it to show up. I got alot of great information from your video and I appreciate your way of explaining everything. I am going to go down there to the shop with a cup of coffee and clean this guy up and get it ready to take some new tires and blade and start cutting some oak!!!edit. I also ordered cool blocks instead of using the steel guides that came on it. They are the 3/16" just In case. Don't order the 1/4" ones they won't work
Thank you for sharing your wisdom Sir. I just picked up an old one for $30 and appreciate you talking about the bearing, tires, blade etc. I guess that means before I even plug this one in, I should go through and inspect everything. Will watch another when I get back.
A 1/4-20 x 3/4 inch carriage bolt with a wingnut makes a great table bandsaw access slot... lock bolt. The rotation locking square under the carriage bolt cap head dropped in on the diagnol to do its job. I used a plastic wingnut simply because I had some which has worked well and hasn't chewed up the aluminum table like the oddball from pars list thumbnut... with teeth it replaced. Can't recall if it was file to fit but this was back in the early 80's. Your 2 aluminum wheels look like an interesting factory improvement over the stock 3 plastic mystery tracking wheels my bandsaw arrived with limiting the bandsaw choices to narrow and thin with little kerf. A well done video you have here sir.
Very helpful videos. Funny thing, I've have 2 of these saws sitting around for quite some time. I got one about 15 years ago at a pawn shop, then I got a second one that was my grandfathers when he passed. Neither seemed to work well, blades kept popping off, so I just let them both sit. Never much of a need. But now I'm getting more into guitar building, and though I have a CNC I still want to build some by hand, too. Also,I have some aluminum cutting needs. I'll be tuning both saws up now thanks to your videos. Thanks!
Just picked up used 10” Craftsman bandsaw for $35. Wanted to have small bandsaw for misc. small projects. Have ordered tires, blades and user guide. Thanks to your video, now I can take it apart with a little more confidence and figure out how it works and what all I need to tune it up. Thanks for your detailed, easy to understand tutoring. Going to get started now.
Recently got one of these from a deceased family member's garage. It's pretty filthy and definitely needs some TLC. THANK YOU for doing so much of the leg work for replacement parts, etc..
Fantastic! Neighbour just gave me this Craftsman that’s been sitting in his garage unused for ages. This video is just what I needed to start restoring it! Thanks.
@@MakinSawdust back again for reference. I can't find any link to parts nor a contact info on your website. I'll print that guide part you need if your upto testing it. I can print hard pla & some carbon fiber. also had a question. When your as tight as possible but the blade visibly wobbles, is that a tension issue or guide blocks? Could the blade be warped/stretched or is it more likely a crappy tension job
I started using the tiniest cheap mini clamps-- black plastic with the orange clamp heads-- to hold the blade onto two wheels while I put the blade on the third wheel. The clamps fit perfectly if you put one clamp head in the wheel hole and the other over the blade.
Don't forget to check your motor bearings. Mine was full of wood dust. The motor is very easy to take apart. You really need a small puller to get the bearings off the rotor shaft. My guide bearings were noisy and locking up. Before I knew it I had them all out and ordered new ones. Also, use 2rs style bearings instead of ZZ. 2RS stands for 2 rubber seals. The metal shielded ones(ZZ) still allow dirt in. I was able to order all of the bearings with spares for less than $40 usd on amazon.
another great video Kevin...i am in the process of replacing parts on my 10" saw,having a problem with the blade coming off.i will try what you are recommending.thanks again !!!
Well done video. I just bought one of these from a neighbor up the street. Also for $40. But does need some work. This video, plus you links are really gonna help me! Thank you!
I am interested in refurbing this saw that has been sitting around in the back of the shed for decades. Thanks for the quality tips for replacing these parts.
First - thanks for this video! Second, you missed something critical. For those who can't get their blade to track, there is a small recessed bolt (3mm hex) right next to the rear tightening knob for the top pulley. Adjusting this small bolt changes the side to side angle of the top pulley. So, unplug and take off the cover. Use your right hand to tweak the small bolt, then tighten down the knob. Then use your left hand to turn the bottom right pulley and, looking down at where the blade meets the top pulley, you can see if the angle is wrong and if the blade is drifting. If the blade drifts, loosen the knob, tweak the small bolt, tighten the knob, and test again. At least, that is how it works on my chinese copy of the Craftsman, but I bet it's the same on all of them.
Yep. Not exactly sure if it's a 3mm hex as I just grabbed a set of allen keys and found one that fit, but tightening it (clockwise turn if looking at the bolt from the back) seems to take the lateral play out of the pulley, loosening it adds play. In my case it definitely doesn't seem to want to be totally tightened to start, at least in the way I have the blade tensioned/set on the tires (gullet of the blade pretty close to the center if it's like other band saws) so I presume one needs to start it with it being loose, then slowly tighten it until you find the right tension? I've been trying to get this blade on for almost 3hr now and I'm really tempted to just bash this thing with a sledge hammer, lol. I've had to walk away a few times... I'll get it to where it's not walking off the wheels when I manually turn it, then I'll adjust everything else, put the cover back on and the blade falls off before it even gets up to speed. Repeat... So either I'm way off with this top pulley adjustment, or there's a very narrow sweet spot for the blade tension I've not yet found. The really aggravating thing is it worked perfectly fine when I got it. But fine wasn't good enough, had to start tweaking that which I don't understand, and now it just sits there, mocking me... lol And I know it's the kind of task that once you "get it" it's easy, but I am just so impatient. Never had this problem with the two wheel designs I used in the past.
@@mfallen2023@mfallen2023 I think the key to settling it up is to closely watch that top pulley as you hand crank it to see if it wants to walk. If it moves at all you have a problem. Also, I don't have it in front of me, but as I recall you have to loosen a bolt behind the top pulley before you adjust the hex bolt, then tighten it back up before you test. Be sure you tighten everything down before you hand crank so the system is stable for testing. Good luck! I still have mine after 15ish years. I keep it set up for wood and my 2 wheel saw set up to cut metal.
@@travisbrown9721 Hey, thanks for the response! Thought I'd give it one more try as I was having my coffee this morning and I cranked the tension far past where I thought it should be, but it works. When cutting though the blade still moves backwards into that bearing so it's not over-tight. I think this old thing just needed to have that tension knob cranked all the way down... Idk, it's working and cutting pretty well for a table top band saw, so I'll take it. Thanks for your original post/response, you had some great info! Have a good one!
Kevin, I can’t get your email to work. Please go to Pask Makes RUclips channel and open chicken coop part 1. Go to about 1:24 and watch to his chop saw ( think that’s the name) cabinet. I thought the way he build it may be of use to you in some way in your limited space. Hugs and Love
I haven't seen organization by chapters before. Very handy. I got that exact saw a few years ago for a reasonable price at a pawn shop, downloaded the owners manual from the Internet, tuned it up, got some new old stock Crafsman blades for it, and it's been working reasonably well since then. The only real issue I had was the warped table. It didn't have the table pin/bolt when I got it. And adding one helped, but I still had to file the table a bit to improve its flatness. It still isn't quite where I want it to be, so I may have to work on it a little more.
Got mine for free. Fixed the bottom blade guide and a couple tabs under the table with JB weld, adjusted everything and it works great. Need to order a tire replacement kit but it works fine the way it is so far. Top wheel doesn't have a rubber tire on it.
I just picked up this saw, literally. I have to put tires on it, there are none. Safety switch is toast so about 5 bucks at Lowes, I have another switch now. Jerry rigging that, cause I'm old school. Curious about COOL BLOCKS, are they the blade guide pins replacement? Your videos are very helpful for the knowledge you convey. Kudos man, and THANKS FOR HELPING ME ON MY 80's model band saw!!
Thanks for the advice. I have a saw just like the one you have. Maybe I should say "almost". Mine looks identical, but it's made by Chicago. I've tried to find that make, but all I come up with is the Craftsman. I'm anxious to get mine up and cutting and appreciate your help. Thanks again.
Hallo, mein Freund. Wir müssen die Einstellungen der von uns verwendeten Werkzeuge oder Maschinen kennen. Du bist ein guter Handwerker. Vielen Dank für dieses schöne Tutorial-Video. Bleib gesund und glücklich. Wir sehen uns. Große Grüße. Mit freundlichen Grüßen.
I just grabbed one of these exact same units off the curb.. cosmetically no different than yours was (dusty & musty) but otherwise fine.. Must’ve been from a KAREN because they CHOPPED ALL THE POWER CORDS… this doesn’t phase me, easy fix, but can you explain why there’s THREE?? I have the remainder of what I believe was the main grounded power cord, but there was no remnants left from the other 2 chops… 🤦♂️ what a Karen thing to do I swear… Anyway, I also wanted to say I watched all of your part 1 and I do love your whole schtick here.. YOUVE made me excited to get this thing open NOW and start my inspection!!! I hope you can help with my cord question 😂
Great rebuild, Kevin. I just got a similar 12" Craftsman the other day that needs some love. The parts won't be identical, but it gives me a good idea what to expect when I tear into it
New subscriber here. Thanks for the in-depth details as I just picked up one of these and know from past experience that band saws can be tricky. For most power tools I like to buy new because I don't know how much someone has beat on the thing. But an old Craftsman like seems like a great find/salvage. My shroud doesn't say "direct drive" the blade is worn but otherwise looks identical to your find. fyi, motor has a date of 1988 so you're right about the era. Keep up the great approach and your sense of humor. : ) Peace.
Great video. Very useful. The chapters are great. My pulley on the drive shaft is stripped. Can you coach me on how to replace it please. Cant seem to find a replacement part. Right now it is working fine but I would like to replace it.
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs. Thank you for the inspiration :) I will include the infor mation soon
I've had mine for almost 30 years, and somewhere along the line a blade pin fell out and disappeared. Screw $25.00 for 4 pieces of 3/4 ", 5mm, or .20 brass rod. Bought a 13" rod for $1.90, made my own, and still have 9" left over. This was done 2.03.23
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs. Thank you for the inspiration :) I will include the infor mation soon
Hey Kevin. I found your channel today and am so glad I did. I’m a self taught woodworker, and bought my first band saw today, just like the one in this video, and was going through it this evening just like you showed us. I checked the lower guide and the guides were not tightened at all so I tightened them and over-tightened and the guide came apart and fell off. I couldn’t believe it. I was wondering if some JB Weld would fix it well enough to hold the little guides for the belt. That part is nowhere to be found. I feel terrible about it. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs. Thank you for the inspiration :) I will include the infor mation soon
Good video! I just found a 10" Craftsman bandsaw model 113.244513 at a sale. Looks to be in good shape. Motor runs. It needs a new belt and a belt drive pulley. Any suggestions on where to look for a drive pulley? If I had the key dimensions, (diameter, width, teeth pitch and number of teeth) I might be able to find one by searching the web. Thanks.
This is a great video, thanks. I bought this secondhand not knowing what I was doing. I followed along and realized my saw has no lower guide. Unsurprising now that I've watched this. Is there a hack or should I buy a new saw? Thanks for this useful info.
Hi Kevin my name is Steve I seen your restoring your craftsman bandsaw I’ve been trying to find tires for mine and you have the exactly the same one how can I find the same tires for mine can you send me how you got yours where are you got yours thank you and I enjoy your RUclips
Sad to see your website is down. I'm looking at one of these saws (to buy) and I'm wondering whether I can assume there will be blades and parts available, or whether I have to get model and serial numbers and do research for the specific unit. I have a woodworking friend who told me that Craftsman used to switch manufacturers of their power tools sometimes, and that would lead to differences in the parts used. Is that a concern with these 10" band-saws that you are aware of?
I just purchased a craftsman 113244513 at garage sale 20bucks no blade, had a blade made 56 7/8 in. x 1/4. that is what the manual says to use, but will a 1/8 in 6tpi work with this saw as well
Hi: Kevin: Great videos. My question is do you know if this saw comes with a rip fence. I know I could make one using claps and pc of wood. I would rather have one that is made for the saw. Cheers Carl
This is the replacement part on amazon. They only come in a 2 pack which seems silly, but they do also fit the 12" 2-wheeled craftsman, so maybe that is the logic. amzn.to/3aWkVzY
Kevin appreciate the video. I was given this saw recently and while putting new tires on i”m afraid I messed up my retaining rings. Would you know where to get the replacement parts for them? My wheels don’t spin like your either. They don’t warble or make noise. The gentleman that gave me the saw said he sprayed lubricant in there. I know you said the bearing replacement information would be in the information but I’m not seeing it. Any help is appreciated.
I've got a lesser known name brand saw, but its just like the one in this video. I'm having issues with the blade ALWAYS shipping off. Would adding new tires take care of this problem? Thanks in advance! Love the channel!
I just came across a 10" task force which is very similar but having a hell of a time getting the blade to stay on. It sounds like the top bearing is shot but I'm having trouble finding a video showing how to swap that bearing. Does it just press in and out? I'm scared to get too crazy with it because the wheels are plastic.
I put new rubber on the wheels, bearings seem fine, but the blade still wants to ride outwards and come off the bottom left wheel. Should I redo the bearings on that wheel?
Thanks for an extremely informative video. I just picked up a 3 wheel (well, 3 large wheel) 14” ShopCraft band saw. What do you think the odds are that this machine is gonna be comparable with things listed under equivalent “Craftsman” sizes? Cash is tight-I’d like to be as such as I can be before hitting “purchase”! Thanks
sure thing, but lighter weight stuff like mild steel, aluminum and some alloys, but remember it isn't a powerhouse, it will do thinner stock and fine work better than cutting big stock. higher TPI blades will work better
I have a similar saw model 113.244513, as opposed to your 113.244512. The 56 7/8 blade is to long for this saw. I have a blade that fits and I estimate it is about 1" shorter than the 56 7/8 that I ordered and found to be big. Is it possible that two very close model versions would have different blades?
@@MakinSawdust - Must be, I was able to locate 1/4 in and 1/2 inch for the 113.244513 and they both fit. Thanks for the video, I’m tuning up the saw as per your roadmap.
On my saw is a piece of paper taped to it that said "saw blade 56.5" I don't know if this is correct or not since I have not really messed with the saw yet.... Sears Mastercraft model # V1132.
If the size of the saw is the same, can you use the same parts from one maker to the next? Example; is the 10" craftsman band/blade the same one for 10" buffalo or other maker? How do you figure this out?
So does anyone know exactly what the numbers are for the sealed bearings needed for replacement in this 10" Direct drive bandsaw? Doesn't seem like no one in the videos want to mention it.
@@paulthompson5405 I used a small brass hobby hammer and a small punch to tap the bearings out. There are C-clips behind each bearing. You don't need to remove those C-clips to tap out the bearings. Tap the new bearing in using a socket of same diameter. Go slow and easy until each bearing is seated against the C-clip behind it.
I have the same bandsaw and the blade does not stay on the tires even after replacing them. What suggestions do you have to keep the blade from sliding off the brand new urethane tires?
My mind goes to the wheels/pulleys not being co-planar, but I don't have this particular model saw -- mine is a two wheel design. Anytime I had this the blade was not tight enough or the bottom wheel (the adjustable one on my saw) had gone out of true with the top.
Thanks for your comment Frank. this seems to be a very common problem. A slightly bad bearing could have that result. As Samcraft mentioned, the blade tension can also be an issue. I noticed when I was reassembling my saw for this video, I also had an issue with one of the wheels being installed backwards. It is very hard to see a difference from the front and the back side of the wheel, but there is a different offset. I also thought about flipping the urethane tires inside out to see if that helps too.
@@MakinSawdust how do you know if a bearing is bad? Also I removed the old tires and replaced them with urethane ones. I watched a video that explained to keep the blade in the center of the tire rather than the entire blade in the center. Have yet to test that out.
Your website is gone? None of the links work. 404 error. I have this saw, replaced the blade with the Bosch same model. The problem I'm having is the saw slows down as soon as I start to cut even 1/4" wood. What could be causing that? Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs. Thank you for the inspiration :) I will include the infor mation soon
When I start the bandsaw the plastic pulley walks up the spindle with the belt . Is there anyway to keep the plastic pulley in place on the spindle thx
@@MakinSawdust yes the plastic knob that connects to the motor to the wheel it keeps walking up the spindle was kind of wondering if it's somehow glued in place
I have one just like it. Paid $15.00. It came with a very thin blade, 4 teeth per inch, cuts smooth but not straight. Even with a fence. I replaced the blade with a Bosch 6 temper inch. Cuts straight but is very very rough. Any suggestions on blades?
I use my saw more often now that I have it in the fliptop part of my bench and my blade that I keep on it is an 18 TPI, I believe. The higher the tooth count the smoother the cut, but also a bit slower of a cut.
You cant :( my website got hacked and all my articles are gone. I haven't had the gumption to make another site yet. Thanks for following. I have a few repairs to do on my saw, so look forward to a new video
Hope this helps someone but i decided to wrap all of my broken wheels with black electrical tape inside and out n they worked perfectly. Saved $30 for now. Lol
Hi Kevin, i just picked up one like this but it has no brand name on it. What i find odd is the Craftsman is called a direct drive but i would call it a belt drive. The one I got is truly a direct drive. The motor sits further rearward and the rear pulley is attached to the motor shaft. Other than that, it appears identical to the Craftsman. The only identification on it is model #90181. It needs new tires but otherwise seems in great shape. What I'm hoping for is that somebody May recognize that model number and be able to point me toward a manual for it. Anyone?
@@MakinSawdust if you ever think of it, or if anyone knows, please let me know. It amazes me that I have not yet been able to find a manual for this thing. I normally manage to find manuals, even for some of the off the wall and old stuff I acquire but this one has been a challenge.
@@MakinSawdustI ordered new tires and two blades for mine and put them on. Tires weren't bad put them on the same way I put a bicycle tire on a bicycle rim, worked pretty well. The blade was another story. It fought me tooth and nail. But I got it on there. Once I got the pulleys aligned and the belt tracking good it seems to work very well. I took some pics showing the inside and the outside and it is very much identical to the Craftsman except for it does not have belt drive. I made a quick one minute video and it sounds really loud in the video but it's not that loud in person. I think it's probably because I had the phone too close to it. I cut a piece of red oak that I had laying around and it cut very easily. I'm impressed especially since I only paid $10 for it. Plus the set of three new tires. I would post my pictures a the video if I could figure out how to do it.
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs. Thank you for the inspiration :) I will include the infor mation soon
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs. Thank you for the inspiration :) I will include the infor mation soon
I just picked one of these beauties up for $30, and I’m so excited. Your thorough review of how to set it up and get going is super helpful-like having my dad back beside me, telling me the ways of good old Craftsman tools. Nothing better! Thank you!
I just read your comment and wanted to say I also bought this saw, just an hour ago and paid $30 too.😊
Same as Delia, I picked mine up pre-pandemic for 25 dollars and in incredible shape - used once then stored away for years resulting in rotted tires no blade. But bearings, bed, everything is in superb shape. I picked p a 62 inch blade because it said three wheeler - welp. I see this guy takes a 56-7/8" blade so I ordered one from Amazon and will wait for it to show up. I got alot of great information from your video and I appreciate your way of explaining everything. I am going to go down there to the shop with a cup of coffee and clean this guy up and get it ready to take some new tires and blade and start cutting some oak!!!edit. I also ordered cool blocks instead of using the steel guides that came on it. They are the 3/16" just In case. Don't order the 1/4" ones they won't work
Thank you for sharing your wisdom Sir. I just picked up an old one for $30 and appreciate you talking about the bearing, tires, blade etc. I guess that means before I even plug this one in, I should go through and inspect everything. Will watch another when I get back.
You are most welcome
A 1/4-20 x 3/4 inch carriage bolt with a wingnut makes a great table bandsaw access slot... lock bolt. The rotation locking square under the carriage bolt cap head dropped in on the diagnol to do its job. I used a plastic wingnut simply because I had some which has worked well and hasn't chewed up the aluminum table like the oddball from pars list thumbnut... with teeth it replaced. Can't recall if it was file to fit but this was back in the early 80's.
Your 2 aluminum wheels look like an interesting factory improvement over the stock 3 plastic mystery tracking wheels my bandsaw arrived with limiting the bandsaw choices to narrow and thin with little kerf.
A well done video you have here sir.
Very helpful videos. Funny thing, I've have 2 of these saws sitting around for quite some time. I got one about 15 years ago at a pawn shop, then I got a second one that was my grandfathers when he passed. Neither seemed to work well, blades kept popping off, so I just let them both sit. Never much of a need. But now I'm getting more into guitar building, and though I have a CNC I still want to build some by hand, too. Also,I have some aluminum cutting needs. I'll be tuning both saws up now thanks to your videos. Thanks!
Awesome and very insightful comment. Thanks for watching
Just picked up used 10” Craftsman bandsaw for $35. Wanted to have small bandsaw for misc. small projects. Have ordered tires, blades and user guide. Thanks to your video, now I can take it apart with a little more confidence and figure out how it works and what all I need to tune it up. Thanks for your detailed, easy to understand tutoring. Going to get started now.
Recently got one of these from a deceased family member's garage. It's pretty filthy and definitely needs some TLC. THANK YOU for doing so much of the leg work for replacement parts, etc..
you are welcome. my pleasure. thanks for stopping by
Fantastic! Neighbour just gave me this Craftsman that’s been sitting in his garage unused for ages. This video is just what I needed to start restoring it! Thanks.
That is awesome! Glad it helped.
Very informative video! This should help a lot of folks make some sawdust once they get their saws refurbished
Thanks 👍
Ima syart calling you Magellan cuz your a magic man. Major appreciation for your bandsaw videos. I owe you big brother
thank you
@@MakinSawdust back again for reference. I can't find any link to parts nor a contact info on your website. I'll print that guide part you need if your upto testing it. I can print hard pla & some carbon fiber.
also had a question.
When your as tight as possible but the blade visibly wobbles, is that a tension issue or guide blocks? Could the blade be warped/stretched or is it more likely a crappy tension job
Just picked this band saw up for $40, will mainly use it up cut up wood for knife handles. Thanks for a very informative and helpful video!
you're welcome and thanks for stopping by.
I started using the tiniest cheap mini clamps-- black plastic with the orange clamp heads-- to hold the blade onto two wheels while I put the blade on the third wheel. The clamps fit perfectly if you put one clamp head in the wheel hole and the other over the blade.
That is a really good idea using the small clamps! I dont have any but I may just buy some the next time I am at HF. Thanks
Don't forget to check your motor bearings. Mine was full of wood dust. The motor is very easy to take apart. You really need a small puller to get the bearings off the rotor shaft. My guide bearings were noisy and locking up. Before I knew it I had them all out and ordered new ones. Also, use 2rs style bearings instead of ZZ. 2RS stands for 2 rubber seals. The metal shielded ones(ZZ) still allow dirt in. I was able to order all of the bearings with spares for less than $40 usd on amazon.
another great video Kevin...i am in the process of replacing parts on my 10" saw,having a problem with the blade coming off.i will try what you are recommending.thanks again !!!
Well done video. I just bought one of these from a neighbor up the street. Also for $40. But does need some work. This video, plus you links are really gonna help me! Thank you!
Glad it helped
I am interested in refurbing this saw that has been sitting around in the back of the shed for decades. Thanks for the quality tips for replacing these parts.
First - thanks for this video!
Second, you missed something critical. For those who can't get their blade to track, there is a small recessed bolt (3mm hex) right next to the rear tightening knob for the top pulley. Adjusting this small bolt changes the side to side angle of the top pulley.
So, unplug and take off the cover. Use your right hand to tweak the small bolt, then tighten down the knob. Then use your left hand to turn the bottom right pulley and, looking down at where the blade meets the top pulley, you can see if the angle is wrong and if the blade is drifting. If the blade drifts, loosen the knob, tweak the small bolt, tighten the knob, and test again.
At least, that is how it works on my chinese copy of the Craftsman, but I bet it's the same on all of them.
Excellent tip!!!!!!
Yep. Not exactly sure if it's a 3mm hex as I just grabbed a set of allen keys and found one that fit, but tightening it (clockwise turn if looking at the bolt from the back) seems to take the lateral play out of the pulley, loosening it adds play.
In my case it definitely doesn't seem to want to be totally tightened to start, at least in the way I have the blade tensioned/set on the tires (gullet of the blade pretty close to the center if it's like other band saws) so I presume one needs to start it with it being loose, then slowly tighten it until you find the right tension?
I've been trying to get this blade on for almost 3hr now and I'm really tempted to just bash this thing with a sledge hammer, lol. I've had to walk away a few times... I'll get it to where it's not walking off the wheels when I manually turn it, then I'll adjust everything else, put the cover back on and the blade falls off before it even gets up to speed. Repeat... So either I'm way off with this top pulley adjustment, or there's a very narrow sweet spot for the blade tension I've not yet found.
The really aggravating thing is it worked perfectly fine when I got it. But fine wasn't good enough, had to start tweaking that which I don't understand, and now it just sits there, mocking me... lol
And I know it's the kind of task that once you "get it" it's easy, but I am just so impatient. Never had this problem with the two wheel designs I used in the past.
@@mfallen2023@mfallen2023 I think the key to settling it up is to closely watch that top pulley as you hand crank it to see if it wants to walk. If it moves at all you have a problem. Also, I don't have it in front of me, but as I recall you have to loosen a bolt behind the top pulley before you adjust the hex bolt, then tighten it back up before you test. Be sure you tighten everything down before you hand crank so the system is stable for testing.
Good luck! I still have mine after 15ish years. I keep it set up for wood and my 2 wheel saw set up to cut metal.
@@travisbrown9721 Hey, thanks for the response! Thought I'd give it one more try as I was having my coffee this morning and I cranked the tension far past where I thought it should be, but it works.
When cutting though the blade still moves backwards into that bearing so it's not over-tight. I think this old thing just needed to have that tension knob cranked all the way down...
Idk, it's working and cutting pretty well for a table top band saw, so I'll take it.
Thanks for your original post/response, you had some great info! Have a good one!
Good evening Kevin. Thank you, that was interesting. Hope you find the part. Hugs and Love to Billiejo and you. Hugs for Nora as well.
Kevin, I can’t get your email to work. Please go to Pask Makes RUclips channel and open chicken coop part 1. Go to about 1:24 and watch to his chop saw ( think that’s the name) cabinet. I thought the way he build it may be of use to you in some way in your limited space. Hugs and Love
I haven't seen organization by chapters before. Very handy. I got that exact saw a few years ago for a reasonable price at a pawn shop, downloaded the owners manual from the Internet, tuned it up, got some new old stock Crafsman blades for it, and it's been working reasonably well since then. The only real issue I had was the warped table. It didn't have the table pin/bolt when I got it. And adding one helped, but I still had to file the table a bit to improve its flatness. It still isn't quite where I want it to be, so I may have to work on it a little more.
good luck. Thanks for stopping by
Got mine for free. Fixed the bottom blade guide and a couple tabs under the table with JB weld, adjusted everything and it works great. Need to order a tire replacement kit but it works fine the way it is so far. Top wheel doesn't have a rubber tire on it.
I just picked up this saw, literally. I have to put tires on it, there are none. Safety switch is toast so about 5 bucks at Lowes, I have another switch now. Jerry rigging that, cause I'm old school. Curious about COOL BLOCKS, are they the blade guide pins replacement? Your videos are very helpful for the knowledge you convey. Kudos man, and THANKS FOR HELPING ME ON MY 80's model band saw!!
I have the Craftsman Model 135 244 200. I find your videos very helpful. Jim
I appreciate you stopping by Jim, thank you :)
Thanks for the advice.
I have a saw just like the one you have. Maybe I should say "almost". Mine looks identical, but it's made by Chicago.
I've tried to find that make, but all I come up with is the Craftsman.
I'm anxious to get mine up and cutting and appreciate your help.
Thanks again.
You bet
I absolutely love! that you include all the necessary information! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I just got one of these today on FB Market place as well. Thank you for the info.
You are most welcome :)
Hallo, mein Freund.
Wir müssen die Einstellungen der von uns verwendeten Werkzeuge oder Maschinen kennen. Du bist ein guter Handwerker. Vielen Dank für dieses schöne Tutorial-Video. Bleib gesund und glücklich. Wir sehen uns. Große Grüße. Mit freundlichen Grüßen.
Thanks very much for the compliment. You as well should stay well . we are good!!
@@MakinSawdust You're welcome. see you all the time. greetings.
I just grabbed one of these exact same units off the curb.. cosmetically no different than yours was (dusty & musty) but otherwise fine.. Must’ve been from a KAREN because they CHOPPED ALL THE POWER CORDS… this doesn’t phase me, easy fix, but can you explain why there’s THREE?? I have the remainder of what I believe was the main grounded power cord, but there was no remnants left from the other 2 chops… 🤦♂️ what a Karen thing to do I swear…
Anyway, I also wanted to say I watched all of your part 1 and I do love your whole schtick here.. YOUVE made me excited to get this thing open NOW and start my inspection!!!
I hope you can help with my cord question 😂
Great rebuild, Kevin. I just got a similar 12" Craftsman the other day that needs some love. The parts won't be identical, but it gives me a good idea what to expect when I tear into it
New subscriber here. Thanks for the in-depth details as I just picked up one of these and know from past experience that band saws can be tricky. For most power tools I like to buy new because I don't know how much someone has beat on the thing. But an old Craftsman like seems like a great find/salvage. My shroud doesn't say "direct drive" the blade is worn but otherwise looks identical to your find. fyi, motor has a date of 1988 so you're right about the era. Keep up the great approach and your sense of humor. : ) Peace.
*_I appreciate the compliments! *Welcome to the channel and I hope to continue the good content._**
Running like a champ and ready for makin' sawdust!
Looking to pick one of these up cheap and REALLY appreciate your video! Thank-you for this!
*DETAILED BLADE TENSIONING AND GUIDE ADJUSTMENT* ruclips.net/video/Wf9azy5HPFo/видео.html
*REPLACEMENT PARTS HERE* kevinswoodcreations.com/bandsaw-parts-list/
*STOW AWAY BANDSAW VIDEO* ruclips.net/video/gCPioSLZee8/видео.html
*VISIT MY SHOP* kevinswoodcreations.com/2020-tiny-shop-tour/
*SUBSCRIBE* ruclips.net/user/MakinSawdust
Great video. Very useful. The chapters are great. My pulley on the drive shaft is stripped. Can you coach me on how to replace it please. Cant seem to find a replacement part. Right now it is working fine but I would like to replace it.
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs.
Thank you for the inspiration :)
I will include the infor mation soon
I've had mine for almost 30 years, and somewhere along the line a blade pin fell out and disappeared. Screw $25.00 for 4 pieces of 3/4 ", 5mm, or .20 brass rod. Bought a 13" rod for $1.90, made my own, and still have 9" left over.
This was done 2.03.23
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs.
Thank you for the inspiration :)
I will include the infor mation soon
Now, all I need is a bandsaw. 😉
Hey Kevin. I found your channel today and am so glad I did. I’m a self taught woodworker, and bought my first band saw today, just like the one in this video, and was going through it this evening just like you showed us. I checked the lower guide and the guides were not tightened at all so I tightened them and over-tightened and the guide came apart and fell off. I couldn’t believe it. I was wondering if some JB Weld would fix it well enough to hold the little guides for the belt. That part is nowhere to be found. I feel terrible about it. Thank you.
You should watch the third video in this series. I broke my lower guide also and show it had been repaired by 2 part epoxy/ JB weld
You’re so kind to answer right away! I’ll watch it next! Thank you so much.
I’ll be trying the JB Weld tomorrow. I’m sleepy now. Thank you for such helpful videos. I really appreciate you going to the trouble. Goodnight.
At 10:16, there are quite a number of 3D printers now. Could a jobber be found to make the part with a 3D printer?
If you are referring to the lower quide assy, I imagine one could be machined pretty easilly or possibly printed.
@7:40 mine were so old they snapped in half 😅 any guidance on replacements?
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs.
Thank you for the inspiration :)
I will include the infor mation soon
Awesome! Just got one for free that works, just needs a tune up. Do you have a link for the bearings for the 3 wheels?
pinned comment directs you to my website
Good video! I just found a 10" Craftsman bandsaw model 113.244513 at a sale. Looks to be in good shape. Motor runs. It needs a new belt and a belt drive pulley. Any suggestions on where to look for a drive pulley? If I had the key dimensions, (diameter, width, teeth pitch and number of teeth) I might be able to find one by searching
the web. Thanks.
That gives me an idea 💡. Lemme do some research
Have you ever had to replace the gear on the motor shaft that drives the belt? If so, where did you find a replacement and how was it removed?
I have never removed one, but I would imagine it is just an interferenced fit. should pull off pretty easily
This is a great video, thanks. I bought this secondhand not knowing what I was doing. I followed along and realized my saw has no lower guide. Unsurprising now that I've watched this. Is there a hack or should I buy a new saw? Thanks for this useful info.
Glad it helped
Thanks you, this was so helpful. You make it look easy.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Kevin my name is Steve I seen your restoring your craftsman bandsaw I’ve been trying to find tires for mine and you have the exactly the same one how can I find the same tires for mine can you send me how you got yours where are you got yours thank you and I enjoy your RUclips
use the link to my website in the pinned comment. Thanks for following along!
Sad to see your website is down. I'm looking at one of these saws (to buy) and I'm wondering whether I can assume there will be blades and parts available, or whether I have to get model and serial numbers and do research for the specific unit. I have a woodworking friend who told me that Craftsman used to switch manufacturers of their power tools sometimes, and that would lead to differences in the parts used. Is that a concern with these 10" band-saws that you are aware of?
Give me a follow over on my Makin'Sawdust Facebook page. Make sure you follow the rt one. I have 64,000 followers. That way you can direct message me
Oh just found this one...another great video Kevin, thank you 😁😁😁😁
Cheers from Aus...again!!!!
Awesome! Thank you!
I just purchased a craftsman 113244513 at garage sale 20bucks no blade, had a blade made 56 7/8 in. x 1/4. that is what the manual says to use, but will a 1/8 in 6tpi work with this saw as well
What about the bearings in the wheels
Nice crosscut sled :D
Thanks! 😁
Hi: Kevin: Great videos. My question is do you know if this saw comes with a rip fence. I know I could make one using claps and pc of wood. I would rather have one that is made for the saw. Cheers Carl
Hi Kevin,
Good video... very informative... Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
Glad you enjoyed it
Hey bud what's the bering number for the three wheels ,I can't find it
This is the replacement part on amazon. They only come in a 2 pack which seems silly, but they do also fit the 12" 2-wheeled craftsman, so maybe that is the logic. amzn.to/3aWkVzY
Kevin appreciate the video. I was given this saw recently and while putting new tires on i”m afraid I messed up my retaining rings. Would you know where to get the replacement parts for them? My wheels don’t spin like your either. They don’t warble or make noise. The gentleman that gave me the saw said he sprayed lubricant in there. I know you said the bearing replacement information would be in the information but I’m not seeing it. Any help is appreciated.
I've got a lesser known name brand saw, but its just like the one in this video.
I'm having issues with the blade ALWAYS shipping off. Would adding new tires take care of this problem? Thanks in advance!
Love the channel!
I just came across a 10" task force which is very similar but having a hell of a time getting the blade to stay on. It sounds like the top bearing is shot but I'm having trouble finding a video showing how to swap that bearing. Does it just press in and out? I'm scared to get too crazy with it because the wheels are plastic.
I put new rubber on the wheels, bearings seem fine, but the blade still wants to ride outwards and come off the bottom left wheel. Should I redo the bearings on that wheel?
Thanks for an extremely informative video. I just picked up a 3 wheel (well, 3 large wheel) 14” ShopCraft band saw. What do you think the odds are that this machine is gonna be comparable with things listed under equivalent “Craftsman” sizes? Cash is tight-I’d like to be as such as I can be before hitting “purchase”! Thanks
Can this saw also be used for metal?
sure thing, but lighter weight stuff like mild steel, aluminum and some alloys, but remember it isn't a powerhouse, it will do thinner stock and fine work better than cutting big stock. higher TPI blades will work better
I have a similar saw model 113.244513, as opposed to your 113.244512. The 56 7/8 blade is to long for this saw. I have a blade that fits and I estimate it is about 1" shorter than the 56 7/8 that I ordered and found to be big. Is it possible that two very close model versions would have different blades?
Yes it is possible. I have seen the blades listed both ways on many sites and I am unsure why.
@@MakinSawdust - Must be, I was able to locate 1/4 in and 1/2 inch for the 113.244513 and they both fit. Thanks for the video, I’m tuning up the saw as per your roadmap.
On my saw is a piece of paper taped to it that said "saw blade 56.5" I don't know if this is correct or not since I have not really messed with the saw yet.... Sears Mastercraft model # V1132.
Hi Kevin, i live in Ontario, Canada, i just purchased a used Sears Craftsman bandsaw, model #113244513, can you tell me what size (length) i can use?
it would be the same size listed in the links in the description. 56 7/8" as I remember
If the size of the saw is the same, can you use the same parts from one maker to the next? Example; is the 10" craftsman band/blade the same one for 10" buffalo or other maker? How do you figure this out?
So does anyone know exactly what the numbers are for the sealed bearings needed for replacement in this 10" Direct drive bandsaw? Doesn't seem like no one in the videos want to mention it.
I have the same question. Also how to remove and replace the old bearings.
My original bearings were stamped 6000Z ( pulley) Thrust bearing 696ZZ. I used 623ZZ for the lower guide bearing.
@@paulthompson5405 I used a small brass hobby hammer and a small punch to tap the bearings out. There are C-clips behind each bearing. You don't need to remove those C-clips to tap out the bearings. Tap the new bearing in using a socket of same diameter. Go slow and easy until each bearing is seated against the C-clip behind it.
Yay for accomplishments!!!! I hope all your dreams come true! XOXOX
Do you have a link for the cool blocks?
I have the same bandsaw and the blade does not stay on the tires even after replacing them. What suggestions do you have to keep the blade from sliding off the brand new urethane tires?
My mind goes to the wheels/pulleys not being co-planar, but I don't have this particular model saw -- mine is a two wheel design. Anytime I had this the blade was not tight enough or the bottom wheel (the adjustable one on my saw) had gone out of true with the top.
Thanks for your comment Frank. this seems to be a very common problem. A slightly bad bearing could have that result. As Samcraft mentioned, the blade tension can also be an issue. I noticed when I was reassembling my saw for this video, I also had an issue with one of the wheels being installed backwards. It is very hard to see a difference from the front and the back side of the wheel, but there is a different offset. I also thought about flipping the urethane tires inside out to see if that helps too.
@@MakinSawdust how do you know if a bearing is bad? Also I removed the old tires and replaced them with urethane ones.
I watched a video that explained to keep the blade in the center of the tire rather than the entire blade in the center. Have yet to test that out.
What length blade do we need for these craftsmen 10”
amzn.to/3THIDGI
Both my upper and lower support guides are broken (items 39, 50). Where can I get replacement parts?
Ebay would be my first choice. I also broke my lower guide, but I ended up using some 2 part epoxy and it has been fine ever since.
Your website is gone? None of the links work. 404 error. I have this saw, replaced the blade with the Bosch same model. The problem I'm having is the saw slows down as soon as I start to cut even 1/4" wood. What could be causing that? Thanks for the video!
What size bearings do I order from Amazon for the Craftsman 3-wheel bandsaw ?
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs.
Thank you for the inspiration :)
I will include the infor mation soon
When I start the bandsaw the plastic pulley walks up the spindle with the belt . Is there anyway to keep the plastic pulley in place on the spindle thx
are you referring to the motor shaft and pulley?
@@MakinSawdust yes the plastic knob that connects to the motor to the wheel it keeps walking up the spindle was kind of wondering if it's somehow glued in place
I have one just like it. Paid $15.00. It came with a very thin blade, 4 teeth per inch, cuts smooth but not straight. Even with a fence. I replaced the blade with a Bosch 6 temper inch. Cuts straight but is very very rough.
Any suggestions on blades?
I use my saw more often now that I have it in the fliptop part of my bench and my blade that I keep on it is an 18 TPI, I believe. The higher the tooth count the smoother the cut, but also a bit slower of a cut.
@@MakinSawdust Thanks. Do you have any problems cutting straight using a fence?
Do you have any info/parts on an Ace hardware 10 inch bandsaw 27198? I'm not finding much with Google. Thanks
I have been asked that before with no luck. I would imagine these 3 wheelers are nearly identical.
@@MakinSawdust I did find the tires on Ebay. Just got figure out the blade length now
I have one and its cutting on an angle
Video coming VERY soon!! :)
Where can I find the info for ordering all of the parts for the 10"
Pinned comment
where can i access the article about this saw?
You cant :( my website got hacked and all my articles are gone.
I haven't had the gumption to make another site yet.
Thanks for following.
I have a few repairs to do on my saw, so look forward to a new video
Hope this helps someone but i decided to wrap all of my broken wheels with black electrical tape inside and out n they worked perfectly. Saved $30 for now. Lol
Hope This Works :)
I have 10 inch craftsman 113244513. My blade wont stay on . Installed new tires and drive belt. Cleaned everything up but blade wont ride right.
Do you have the manual? If so follow the directions is all I can suggest. There are a few minor adjustments with screws that may make the diff
Bearings part #? Sorry I looked may have missed it.
Hi Kevin, i just picked up one like this but it has no brand name on it. What i find odd is the Craftsman is called a direct drive but i would call it a belt drive. The one I got is truly a direct drive. The motor sits further rearward and the rear pulley is attached to the motor shaft. Other than that, it appears identical to the Craftsman. The only identification on it is model #90181. It needs new tires but otherwise seems in great shape. What I'm hoping for is that somebody May recognize that model number and be able to point me toward a manual for it. Anyone?
I have run across a direct drive manual in my Google travels, but can't remember exactly.
@@MakinSawdust if you ever think of it, or if anyone knows, please let me know. It amazes me that I have not yet been able to find a manual for this thing. I normally manage to find manuals, even for some of the off the wall and old stuff I acquire but this one has been a challenge.
@@billsinclair7280 it is on my list!
@@MakinSawdustI ordered new tires and two blades for mine and put them on. Tires weren't bad put them on the same way I put a bicycle tire on a bicycle rim, worked pretty well. The blade was another story. It fought me tooth and nail. But I got it on there. Once I got the pulleys aligned and the belt tracking good it seems to work very well. I took some pics showing the inside and the outside and it is very much identical to the Craftsman except for it does not have belt drive. I made a quick one minute video and it sounds really loud in the video but it's not that loud in person. I think it's probably because I had the phone too close to it. I cut a piece of red oak that I had laying around and it cut very easily. I'm impressed especially since I only paid $10 for it. Plus the set of three new tires. I would post my pictures a the video if I could figure out how to do it.
What is capacitor size?
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs.
Thank you for the inspiration :)
I will include the infor mation soon
Wish my saw was like new. Can’t buy parts and can’t keep blade on the pulleys
Thanks for the comment. I really cant answer that yet, but you have spurred me to make a fourth video for this series. I will do some deep dive hard drive research and some wayback machine on the webs.
Thank you for the inspiration :)
I will include the infor mation soon
I would think the wheel behind the blade should contact the side of the blade not the back. I dont get the design.
Band Saw Blade 56 7/8-inch X 1/4-inch amzn.to/4arJ25o
All of the links are no good anymore, all say product not available.
Yes, my website was hacked and taken down.
Look at the pinned comment. That should have an Amazon link