FYI my brother. Take a pair of side cutter and just nip the crimped part of the steel band clamp. It literally falls right off with no damage to the rubber boot.
This guy was the best at explaining transmission flush then any full time mechanic on youtube - earned my respect instantly after that. Great learner and teacher.
You didn't put near enough grease inside the CV joint. When that joint spins at high RPM all the grease will be slung to the outer walls, thus causing premature wear.
Right , I almost thought this was one of those spoof videos. My man drilled the clamp , like bro just cut it at the clasp not on the damn band and that thing should be damn near packed with grease
Had a customers car a few years ago with a small nick like that. Thin line of grease all around the wheel well. Could have re-booted it. Could have replaced the whole axle. Instead, we took a grease gun with a needle and pumped some extra grease in the slit. Wiped it down and superglued it shut. He's put 50k+ miles on it and still hasn't leaked since.
@@DEVIL666wtf When you buy a boot they often only include a VERY small container of CV Joint grease. Many people don't know that the boot has to be packed so they just squirt some in.
It usually is. I fixed one this week only because it separated when I tried to get the strut out. Plus it was leaking slightly from the clamp not being installed correctly from the factory.
I've seen shops do this because the labor cost is higher which is more profit even if it costs the customer the same amount stupid politics I normally recommend a new one since it's out
It cuts out the liability for tech error in replacing the thing. If the boot isn't installed properly or if the joint fails it's on the tech. Most techs would rather not have to deal with the headache for minimal difference in cost to the customer.
A trick i used to use is where the crimping adjustment is, grind the steel away with an angle grinder or bench grinder. Worked like a charm every time.
I've repaired sooo many axles by replacing the boots (there's a simple tool for the clamp, BTW) but today, it's really worth it just to buy a new axle for 75 bucks rather than charge 50 for a new boot instalation
Had pull axle out of my vectra yesterday. Infact had to remove intermediate shaft in order to tap off the axle. Stressful but it’s done, just waiting on parts to put her back together. Also control arm was toast so might as well sort it whilst there
Grey Silicone also works well, I've used it before on a small tear on a cv boot. Also used a hose clamp to hold the boot on instead of the OEM style clamp.
@@1987FX16 , problem I’ve heard is hose clamps will tear into the rubber. I’ve heard zip ties work, but personally I’ve used wire double over, and tightened. Still holding.
Thanks for teaching some of these non gearheads how to DYI. 👍🏿 Next class should be on how to change a tire for one's self , mom and or girlfriend....instead of sitting in the passenger seat watching mom or girlfriend change it or waiting on roadside assistance. 😐😒🤨
From what I'm told?? most shops just replace the whole axle with new or rebuilt axles. Because you always risk that your old axle can be bent ever so slightly & prematurely damage the transmission/differential?? Old axles are inspected for straightness before being rebuilt.
One question did you burp the boot before you sealed it. Old school in me is just wondering. If you don't it will keep leaking grease if too much air is let into joint.
@@CarswithNash one broke the inside and the other ther outside. I just have to disassemble everything and pick the parts that are ther not broken and the least worm. I rock crawl an IFS so i've done this before. Lol.
Good job Jimmy but hope it was a near new axle. if it had more than 40k on it (about half it's service life) I would have just bought a new/rebuilt axle. They are a bit laborious to get in and out. If you fix the boot and then 10k later it's clattering you do it over again. I would NEVER use black grease on my vehicle anywhere. MolyB and Graphite are corrosive to steel. Anyone doing this use only "white lithium" grease.
Судя по цвету смазки, это смазка с дисульфидом молибдена, которая применяется в наружном шарнире. Во многих руководствах по ремонту производители категорически запрещают использовать смазку с твёрдыми частицами во внутреннем шарнире, частицы дисульфида молибдена повышают износ игольчатого подшипника. Пока не поздно, удалите эту смазку и промойте детали очистителем, смажьте все оригинальной смазкой для внутренних шарниров, либо же смазкой для тяжелых условий эксплуатации без содержания твёрдых частиц, отлично подходит смазка на полимочевинном комплексе, например, Huskey MP-2 Polyurea Grease.
I dont get everyone saying its cheaper to replace the axle in the uk you can buy a universal cv boot for £2.50 that can be fitted with a £40 tool and you dont even need to split the cv joint as the tool stretches the boot over it can be done in less than 20 mins from car pulling in to customer on their way home
The boot on a cv axle is not just to keep the grease in it acts as pump moving the grease through the bearings the axle needs far more grease for the boot to pump the grease properly
Hi, I'm seeing by color of grease that internal CV joint is wrong. That grease in only for external CV joint because of added molybdenum on graphite. Internal CV joint grease must not contain any additives or small bearings will be dead soon.
@@nzuncovered1845 I'm from Europe. I tried to find something for US. GKN Tripod Joint Grease looks promising. For CV joints with needle bearings. Nlgi must be low.
Are you in Alaska or Hawaii where axles aren't a dime a dozen we don't do this anymore it's a dying trade good for you to show it where the hell do you find your boots
nicely done, next time be really careful not to have ANY grease on the mating surface of the boot and the CV housing, a little bit can sometimes bite you in the butt.
And for the cost of the labor charge you could have replaced the whole axle with brand new boots in well over half the time and half the cost. Sir/ma'am, I'm going to upcharge you without telling you I'm uncharging you. 😁😁😁
do all cvs come apart or are some just throw away... i have a 4x4 with a buggered front diff but dont want to drive it without haveing the cv cups in the hubs
Twll me you are a sheepdip without telling me you are a sheepdip. Boot cost me $14. Axle would cost me $150. It takes me a whole 10 min more to replace the boot vs entire axle.
This is definitely extremely clean 👍 this is extremely tight. Just gonna slide this in just gonna put some grease in it 😂sounds like the first time me and the wife did it. lol those were my exact words I told her.
Why? How much time did you have into rebuilding these half shafts (cv axels) you could have just went on eBay and bought 2 brand new half shafts had them shipped to you and you probably still when it came out cheaper and less time.. rebuilding half shafts is a thing of the past
Everyone has a different opinion on this subject, but Moly grease or wheel bearing grease is fine, or you can get dedicated CV grease but I can never find it
Moly grease is not the best for needle bearings. Any low base oil viscosity up to 150 centistokes NLGI2 or NLGI1 grease is ok for CV joints with needle bearing. Moly grease only for classic cv joints.
Save the old grease because you can use it in the bedroom if you know what I mean . Only if you're single though ! I learned that the very very hard way I still have to beg to this very day .
That's why if you have any commen sense at all you take everything with a grain of salt, then take in all the relevant information like easy to make mistakes on your first try etc. Also if you have similar parts you can atleast see how to do it. It's better than nothing. He didn't claim to be a master he's just showing his process
If you know anything about one road and Jimmy that's the whole premise of his RUclips channel he is a DIY guy who does a lot of things that he has never done before and he basically takes you with him technically this is how most people learn to do things they don't want to pay somebody $1,000 to do something they can do for 50 bucks
@@Ilovecarsntruckstrue. But on some vehicles, an axle is 650 bucks, and the aftermarket ones available for them are pure junk. So you invest in keeping them in good shape.
yah I've always just been taught if the boots broke go ahead and buy a new axle, cause most time if I'm tearing a boot it most likely has already ate dirt for a minimum of 5-10 hours riding.
Not always the case bro! I'm an automotive tech by trade and believe me a torn boot is no major issue if caught relatively early on. A good tech will know when a CV needs to be replaced after a boot tear after years of experience
The tech is more than likely going to put a off-the-shelf CV axle with a sub Quality Boot that's going to crack within 2 to 3 years... if cv are good it's better to just use a great great grease... the CVS have needle bearings I have 310,000 Mi on my original needle bearing U-joints of my 4Runner... I use my grease gun on zerks every oil change
Never seen a CV joint with a leaky boot that was not contaminated by dirt and water. Replace the whole thing so you won't have to do it a year from now on a cold night, outside, in the driveway.
One of my buddies did that for us on my parents' van... probably a decade ago now. Replacing a ball joint. Freezing rain... Man was a fkn beast. All of us were freezing, retreating to the car to soak up heat and get feeling back into our fingers and toes. Not him! Out there grinding away, cursing up a storm. Did a damn good job too. Really wish he was still around. Hell of a character. Always made people smile and did his best to bring the best out of people he cared about.
@@Alberthoward3right9up they have not been around for a long time but they definitely made 5/8 drive ratchets. I think around the early to mid 1900s. Snap on made 5/8 drive ratchets and sockets and I want to say they made some other odd size drive ratchets
Most of the time it is cheaper and better to just replace the axle rather than repairing it. Time is money. If a new axle is $80 its not worth the time or effort to fix the old one. If you gotta spend $20 on a new boot and one hour repairing the old one then you have to ask yourself if you would rather spend $60 on a new axle or one hour on repairing an old one and still be left with the old joints.
Except there wasn't anything wrong with the bearings, so replacing the boot is the way to go here. The only thing he did improperly here was just covering the bearings with grease, instead of acting packing the bearings with grease. They'll probably fail prematurely now.
@@Redtooth75you are full of chit. It takes me 10 whole minutes more to replace boot vs replace axle. Bought a boot today for $14. Axle would cost 150. So shut TF UP BECAUSE you are clueless
Usually it's worth getting a whole new axle. They're cheap and usually come with lifetime warranties. The boot kit and grease is half the price of an axle
In my 30 years of experience that is the very first time I’ve seen anyone thoroughly clean and inspect a CV axle when replacing the boot. Usually they just pack it full of grease and put a boot on it. I’m impressed.
@@lucidbarrier depends on who the OEM is. If it's a Toyota yeah go ahead but if it's a Chrysler product aftermarket is probably cheaper and higher quality 🤣
FYI my brother. Take a pair of side cutter and just nip the crimped part of the steel band clamp. It literally falls right off with no damage to the rubber boot.
You can say that again, it looks like he damaged the boot a few ribs from the crimp...
This guy was the best at explaining transmission flush then any full time mechanic on youtube - earned my respect instantly after that. Great learner and teacher.
You didn't put near enough grease inside the CV joint. When that joint spins at high RPM all the grease will be slung to the outer walls, thus causing premature wear.
Right , I almost thought this was one of those spoof videos. My man drilled the clamp , like bro just cut it at the clasp not on the damn band and that thing should be damn near packed with grease
Won't matter if you only smear grease on the outside of the bearings. Willing to bet he doesn't know how to pack bearings
@@iantwaddell4511 he didn't even pack it moderately. Covering in grease is not packing grease into the bearings.
That's why it's quicker just to replace whole cv axel and sometimes is cheaper 🤣
@@larryw866 not a bad idea
Had a customers car a few years ago with a small nick like that. Thin line of grease all around the wheel well.
Could have re-booted it.
Could have replaced the whole axle.
Instead, we took a grease gun with a needle and pumped some extra grease in the slit. Wiped it down and superglued it shut.
He's put 50k+ miles on it and still hasn't leaked since.
Wow, truly a don't gudge the methods, gudge the results moment 😂
@@Brandon-uy1uvgudge? 😂
Nice work,you are getting good. Glad the video wasn't called " why not to change a CV boot!!"
Na he really skimped on the greese
Like that one video. Why you shouldn’t install e fans on your car.
@@DEVIL666wtf When you buy a boot they often only include a VERY small container of CV Joint grease. Many people don't know that the boot has to be packed so they just squirt some in.
"why AND HOW not to..."
Ok cost of labor and parts? I very curious because I was always told it’s just cheaper to buy a new CV axle with the boots.
It usually is. I fixed one this week only because it separated when I tried to get the strut out. Plus it was leaking slightly from the clamp not being installed correctly from the factory.
I've seen shops do this because the labor cost is higher which is more profit even if it costs the customer the same amount stupid politics I normally recommend a new one since it's out
It cuts out the liability for tech error in replacing the thing. If the boot isn't installed properly or if the joint fails it's on the tech. Most techs would rather not have to deal with the headache for minimal difference in cost to the customer.
@@Sva_rog very true
@Cactus Jones True, but the knowledge of a mechanic is priceless.
I feel like you should have used a lil more grease
That’s what she said 😂
@@fastinradfordable😂😭😭😭
A trick i used to use is where the crimping adjustment is, grind the steel away with an angle grinder or bench grinder. Worked like a charm every time.
love to see the perfectly clean insides
why do i get this feeling it was your drill bit that hit the boot?
I've repaired sooo many axles by replacing the boots (there's a simple tool for the clamp, BTW) but today, it's really worth it just to buy a new axle for 75 bucks rather than charge 50 for a new boot instalation
Had pull axle out of my vectra yesterday. Infact had to remove intermediate shaft in order to tap off the axle. Stressful but it’s done, just waiting on parts to put her back together. Also control arm was toast so might as well sort it whilst there
True repair! You ain't no parts hanger 👍👍👍 Nice work!!!
I just shoot in more grease and then put flex seal tape over it. Seem to work
That’s illegal in my country
@@viperz888 what country’s that?
Grey Silicone also works well, I've used it before on a small tear on a cv boot. Also used a hose clamp to hold the boot on instead of the OEM style clamp.
@@1987FX16 , problem I’ve heard is hose clamps will tear into the rubber.
I’ve heard zip ties work, but personally I’ve used wire double over, and tightened. Still holding.
@@70Marc Zip ties stretch too much you can't get the boot to seal properly, steel cable ties or wire is the best
Well that just saved me money with my old cv axles! Thanks for the tip
Thanks for teaching some of these non gearheads how to DYI. 👍🏿 Next class should be on how to change a tire for one's self , mom and or girlfriend....instead of sitting in the passenger seat watching mom or girlfriend change it or waiting on roadside assistance. 😐😒🤨
From what I'm told?? most shops just replace the whole axle with new or rebuilt axles. Because you always risk that your old axle can be bent ever so slightly & prematurely damage the transmission/differential??
Old axles are inspected for straightness before being rebuilt.
One question did you burp the boot before you sealed it. Old school in me is just wondering. If you don't it will keep leaking grease if too much air is let into joint.
Dang ! You make it look easy!
I currently have 2 to combine into 1 for my rock crawler.
If you’re planning to do a splice I have a video you should watch, check my channel it’s right there at the top.
@@CarswithNash one broke the inside and the other ther outside. I just have to disassemble everything and pick the parts that are ther not broken and the least worm. I rock crawl an IFS so i've done this before. Lol.
Working on “axles” today.
Twin solid axle gang 😤
grease looked quite a bit different, gonna assume you matched it well
In the uk we call them driving shafts....
Rubber bits we call constant velocity boots (cv boots)
Good job - I can’t remember if you have to change trans axle bearing seals Go Job 😎
Good job Jimmy but hope it was a near new axle.
if it had more than 40k on it (about half it's service life) I would have just bought a new/rebuilt axle. They are a bit laborious to get in and out. If you fix the boot and then 10k later it's clattering you do it over again.
I would NEVER use black grease on my vehicle anywhere. MolyB and Graphite are corrosive to steel.
Anyone doing this use only "white lithium" grease.
If its a small hole I'd just slap so rtv on the hole and let it dry
Doesnt usually stick unfortunately as the rubber boot is usually oil based, its a 50/50 chance, believe me I've learnt the hard way
Судя по цвету смазки, это смазка с дисульфидом молибдена, которая применяется в наружном шарнире. Во многих руководствах по ремонту производители категорически запрещают использовать смазку с твёрдыми частицами во внутреннем шарнире, частицы дисульфида молибдена повышают износ игольчатого подшипника. Пока не поздно, удалите эту смазку и промойте детали очистителем, смажьте все оригинальной смазкой для внутренних шарниров, либо же смазкой для тяжелых условий эксплуатации без содержания твёрдых частиц, отлично подходит смазка на полимочевинном комплексе, например, Huskey MP-2 Polyurea Grease.
I dont get everyone saying its cheaper to replace the axle in the uk you can buy a universal cv boot for £2.50 that can be fitted with a £40 tool and you dont even need to split the cv joint as the tool stretches the boot over it can be done in less than 20 mins from car pulling in to customer on their way home
That was some nasty looking new grease
Also, if you're paying the mechanic $100.+ per hr. It's usually cheaper & safer to install a rebuilt axle
you might think about lubing it AFTER the snap ring goes on
The boot on a cv axle is not just to keep the grease in it acts as pump moving the grease through the bearings the axle needs far more grease for the boot to pump the grease properly
Ever seen the tool and boots that stretch over joint? Seen it on here a while back. I never replace boots. If im taking it out its getting replaced
Aren’t you supposed to pack the hub with grease?
For the price of a new axle Y expend the employee labor to rebuild it. With a new component you get new internals
The old grease is silvery from the tired needle bearings
you're supposed to "set" the clamp, after you fold it over, with a dull center punch.
Besides not enough grease also that it should be high temp while your there
Seriously tho…. Don’t put grease on there till done lol.
The CV grease that is used is the NASTIEST stuff on the planet.
Great job
So much easier to just get a entire new cv axle
Hi, I'm seeing by color of grease that internal CV joint is wrong. That grease in only for external CV joint because of added molybdenum on graphite.
Internal CV joint grease must not contain any additives or small bearings will be dead soon.
What kind of grease do you recommend? Everyone seems to have a different opinion on what to use
@@nzuncovered1845 I'm from Europe. I tried to find something for US. GKN Tripod Joint Grease looks promising. For CV joints with needle bearings.
Nlgi must be low.
Are you in Alaska or Hawaii where axles aren't a dime a dozen we don't do this anymore it's a dying trade good for you to show it where the hell do you find your boots
Covering it in grease is NOT the same as PACKING the bearings WITH Grease. That's a great way to cause a failure due to premature wear.
pack the grease in them bearings good.. leave no empty space
Why would you drill a hole in the band when you can take a pair of side cutters to where the two ends are connected together and cut it there? 🤦
nicely done, next time be really careful not to have ANY grease on the mating surface of the boot and the CV housing, a little bit can sometimes bite you in the butt.
And for the cost of the labor charge you could have replaced the whole axle with brand new boots in well over half the time and half the cost.
Sir/ma'am, I'm going to upcharge you without telling you I'm uncharging you. 😁😁😁
The only time will rebuild an axle at the shop as if the axle is no longer available Is in a brand new form
do all cvs come apart or are some just throw away... i have a 4x4 with a buggered front diff but dont want to drive it without haveing the cv cups in the hubs
That's actually a 'plunge joint', the CV is at the other end of the axle.
This video showed extremely how to do this repair
Could have had the new axle in by the time you were done re booting it
I dunno, depends on how many miles are on the axle already. If youre at 200k just replace the axle.
Did you put the used grease back in?
I'm sure he mistook saying GREASE when the correct material to use is PASTE. Proper amount, paste will not 'fling off the thing'.
That’s the most tailored clamp I’ve ever seen anyone ever do.
Tell me your time is worth nothing without telling me your time is worth nothing…
Twll me you are a sheepdip without telling me you are a sheepdip.
Boot cost me $14. Axle would cost me $150. It takes me a whole 10 min more to replace the boot vs entire axle.
This is definitely extremely clean 👍 this is extremely tight. Just gonna slide this in just gonna put some grease in it 😂sounds like the first time me and the wife did it. lol those were my exact words I told her.
My boots have been wide open for years. I just rub some grease inside the joint every oil change.
I break cv shafts before the boots have a chance to need replaced.
You’ve found a work-around.
I didn't think anybody did it old school anymore now they just grab a new half shaft at AutoZone
Queue the “this is extremely tight” jokes
What's a 5/8" ratchet??? I've never heard or saw one!
Если бы я так фиксировал хомуты. То меня давно бы уже разобрали на пыльники
Why? How much time did you have into rebuilding these half shafts (cv axels) you could have just went on eBay and bought 2 brand new half shafts had them shipped to you and you probably still when it came out cheaper and less time.. rebuilding half shafts is a thing of the past
Super confused on why you did all this for a clamp?
Definitely beats buying a completely new axle.
Not these days it doesn't. New whole assemblys are cheap enough, the extra labor to "repair" would be far more than just replacing the assembly.
Ase master tech here ......... Lmaooo
not good, not grafite grease, just Extreme pressure grease EP. when everything is very tired, then we put a little black grease.
Clean 😅
А смазка точно для трипоида?
Теперь понятно почему русские автомеханики такие востребованные.
That is EXTREMELY NOT ENOUGH grease!
What’s up with white cv boot
What grease is that?
Or you could just put a new CV axle on and be sure your parts won’t fail a month after you just did all this work.
What grease should be used for cv axles?
Everyone has a different opinion on this subject, but Moly grease or wheel bearing grease is fine, or you can get dedicated CV grease but I can never find it
Moly grease is not the best for needle bearings. Any low base oil viscosity up to 150 centistokes NLGI2 or NLGI1 grease is ok for CV joints with needle bearing. Moly grease only for classic cv joints.
Ricky is that you?
Its cheaper to just buy a new one
Yep Auto Zone DuraLast
Yeah I've seen them as cheap as $40 think about the time spent taking them apart the cleanup everything else I'm just going to buy another one
I hate doing this job.. they make a tool that expands the boot. So you don't have to take it all apart..
Seriously someone else who replaces CV boots and not using junk CHINESE axles.
Save the old grease because you can use it in the bedroom if you know what I mean . Only if you're single though ! I learned that the very very hard way I still have to beg to this very day .
"I'm going to teach the internet how to do something I've never done before"
That's why if you have any commen sense at all you take everything with a grain of salt, then take in all the relevant information like easy to make mistakes on your first try etc. Also if you have similar parts you can atleast see how to do it. It's better than nothing. He didn't claim to be a master he's just showing his process
@@ogsponge8678 wow man. profound
Well now we know he's done it once.
If you know anything about one road and Jimmy that's the whole premise of his RUclips channel he is a DIY guy who does a lot of things that he has never done before and he basically takes you with him technically this is how most people learn to do things they don't want to pay somebody $1,000 to do something they can do for 50 bucks
@@boosted2.4_sky you seem emotionally invested in this man
If that boot wasn't torn, there was no reason to change it, just the bent clamp
He stated that it was leaking grease. Dude is probably just making a video .
Yeah he's a hypochondriac with car parts.
...he demonstrated that it was leaking....
Too be honest. I'd just replace the entire cv axle if that was happening.
Getting new parts and working on the car is fun. Lol
He messed it up with the drill in the beginning, then put the blame on something at some point :D. youtube will soon end up like TV did, full of cr*p.
No need to ever drill those clamps, just get some good side cutter/ snips.
Correct
That's more work than just replacing the whole CV shaft
Especially when a new cv shaft is maby 150 at most.
Save 100 but spend 3 hours
@@Ilovecarsntruckstrue. But on some vehicles, an axle is 650 bucks, and the aftermarket ones available for them are pure junk. So you invest in keeping them in good shape.
It’s never that easy either.
Right.... imagine taking it to a shop and paying for a cv boot when you could pay just as much maybe less for a whole new cv axle
yah I've always just been taught if the boots broke go ahead and buy a new axle, cause most time if I'm tearing a boot it most likely has already ate dirt for a minimum of 5-10 hours riding.
Not always the case bro! I'm an automotive tech by trade and believe me a torn boot is no major issue if caught relatively early on. A good tech will know when a CV needs to be replaced after a boot tear after years of experience
The tech is more than likely going to put a off-the-shelf CV axle with a sub Quality Boot that's going to crack within 2 to 3 years... if cv are good it's better to just use a great great grease... the CVS have needle bearings I have 310,000 Mi on my original needle bearing U-joints of my 4Runner... I use my grease gun on zerks every oil change
Never seen a CV joint with a leaky boot that was not contaminated by dirt and water. Replace the whole thing so you won't have to do it a year from now on a cold night, outside, in the driveway.
One of my buddies did that for us on my parents' van... probably a decade ago now. Replacing a ball joint. Freezing rain... Man was a fkn beast. All of us were freezing, retreating to the car to soak up heat and get feeling back into our fingers and toes. Not him! Out there grinding away, cursing up a storm. Did a damn good job too. Really wish he was still around. Hell of a character. Always made people smile and did his best to bring the best out of people he cared about.
Isn't that why he cleaned it and replaced it with new grease?
@@SL-pg4dhhe is saying it's probably has damage you can't see. Most bearings are exact tolerances and even tiny wear can cause failures sometimes
Just did this 😂 25* for 5 hours
@@SL-pg4dh By the time the damaged boot is discovered the joint is already damaged by the contaminants.
Only cv worth rebooting are 100 series Land Cruisers edit:OEM cv
Для трипойда используется другая смазка!!!
По цвету определил? У них в комплекте всегда такая
@@Navigator-Auto да по цвету и консистенции видно что смазка не та
Wow I've never seen anybody drill a boot clamp before.
Where did you get your 5/8th ratchet ?. They must be new.
lol pretty sure those haven't been around for a long time
Maybe it came out when the left handed 10/16 ratchet came out 😆
they used to make them. I have an old proto 5/8" drive socket sitting around
@@kevinogden6854 the made 1/4 3/8 1/2 inch and 3/4. And that's it.
@@Alberthoward3right9up they have not been around for a long time but they definitely made 5/8 drive ratchets. I think around the early to mid 1900s. Snap on made 5/8 drive ratchets and sockets and I want to say they made some other odd size drive ratchets
This is exactly why I bought whole new cv axlw
Most of the time it is cheaper and better to just replace the axle rather than repairing it. Time is money. If a new axle is $80 its not worth the time or effort to fix the old one. If you gotta spend $20 on a new boot and one hour repairing the old one then you have to ask yourself if you would rather spend $60 on a new axle or one hour on repairing an old one and still be left with the old joints.
Except there wasn't anything wrong with the bearings, so replacing the boot is the way to go here.
The only thing he did improperly here was just covering the bearings with grease, instead of acting packing the bearings with grease. They'll probably fail prematurely now.
@@jmackinjersey1 did you read what I said? It is almost always cheaper to replace the whole axle rather than repair the boot when you factor in time.
@@Redtooth75you are full of chit. It takes me 10 whole minutes more to replace boot vs replace axle. Bought a boot today for $14. Axle would cost 150. So shut TF UP BECAUSE you are clueless
Don't try to pass you're knowledge on to this guy
He won't listen
Usually it's worth getting a whole new axle. They're cheap and usually come with lifetime warranties. The boot kit and grease is half the price of an axle
$14 vs $150. Thats a bit more than half the cost.
@@redrustyhill2 idk what you're looking at, I bought a front CV axle for my 2008 infinity g35x AWD for 44.99 straight out of China baby.
In my 30 years of experience that is the very first time I’ve seen anyone thoroughly clean and inspect a CV axle when replacing the boot. Usually they just pack it full of grease and put a boot on it. I’m impressed.
FYI complete axles can usually be bought for around the same price as a boot kit on most vehicles.
Not oem
The quality is usually better on the OEM stuff. If the CV isn't making noise, might be better to just replace the boot and pack it with fresh grease.
@@lucidbarrier depends on who the OEM is. If it's a Toyota yeah go ahead but if it's a Chrysler product aftermarket is probably cheaper and higher quality 🤣
Yeah but they don't last as the original. Just replace the boot yourself if your car isn't making any noise.
Bullshit. Just bought a boot today for $14. Entire axle is over $100.