Honing the top of my Table saw AGAIN!!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Honing the top of my Table saw AGAIN!! This wasn't by choice. After cleaning a silicone glue mat off ready for more gluing. I though it was dry but just wanting to take no chances I put a towel down on my table saw and finished gluing up my cutting boards. Before we left to spend the day with our grandkid's I went in the shop and removed the clamps from the cutting boards. To my frantic surprise when I removed the towel from the table saw a HUGE brown spot was sitting there. I with no hesitation cleared off the table top shot WD-40 on and with my 400 grit sanded the rust off, wiped it down with mineral sprits and reshot some WD-40 let it set till I returned. In this video I go through the process as if it were my yearly maintenance of the saw and hone once again the top with an added step. This time I do 10 minutes with 1000 grit paper and take the smoothness to another level.
I will never again wax my table again. I've found a futuristic product that is slicker than any wax and better protection. Meet Carbon Method Nano technology. click here for more info.
carbonmethod.com/
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Rick, Rick Rick, this takes me back to my HS days. If the shop teacher saw us use the table saw for ANYTHING but cutting a piece of wood, he failed whatever project we were working on. As he would say...it isn't a glue up table, it is not a work bench, it isn't even a place to lay a piece of wood you are working with. To this day that still rings in my head. I did buy a 1/4 sheet sander from Harbor Freight just for honing cast iron, when it stops working from all the WD40 I'll throw it out. Thanks for another great video and admitting your mistake.
Don I truly thought it would be OK but I made a cover for my router table next is going to be the table saw for those JUST IN CASE times. I don't want to do this till it my yearly duty...Its a reaction to TOO much clutter on my counter tops, time to reorganize again and start tossing thing in the trash I no longer need or use...
You could get some blue magic wheel polish and buff it with that. It's a 4000 grit metal polish. That baby would look like a true mirror. Might be overboard, but a high polish resists rust better.
I got a new Harvey 110s-52 , during assembly, cleaned off cast iron shipping protectant and came back next day and top was rusted. Honing the top now . This video helped me tremendously. New Laguna top rusted some same night in a relatively dry North Texas. I love your videos.
Have helped me tremendously.
Thank you so much.
Dan my pleasure to help surprised you got rust in Texas my family lives there all around Dallas/Fort Worth I had an issue with rust due to my stupidity but found this I think you might want to try. Here is a link to my vid I did on the product. ruclips.net/video/vwt6QENe4P8/видео.html&feature=share
I feel your pain. I keep my new Baileigh jointer covered with a baby blanket, one of my grown daughter’s set a styrofoam cup of pop and ice on it ,I noticed it the same day and removed it didn’t think much of it, then when I went to use it probably a week later pulled the cover off and holy crap a big o cup ring rusted like crazy . That took some work. Glad you found it in time!
Rod you do know. we think it's OK and BAM yep know that feeling too. Now I take NO chances ... lol till I forget anyway. thanks Rod
I'm an old General Contractor. I would clean the top with denatured Alcohol to strip out the WD-40 then quickly coat it with 3 coats of Johnson's Paste wax. You'll be shocked how slick the table can really be.
Renrondog i found a Nano technology coat from carbon method. applied that to my top then I flew back to Tennessee so the top cured for over 10 days my first cuts after the carbon coat were amazing. This saw is the slickest it has ever been. I'm done with waxes if this carbon coat has any longevity I will never wax again. I did a video on the application and I am just Wow. I purchased more and going to apply it to al my tools. you should check it out and do some reading on it. you never know. Here is a link (carbonmethod.com/) thanks for the comment and viewing.
I appreciate your attention to the details. The swirls don't bother me if there are any. I use my orbital sander dry with 320 grit followed by 600 grit - then, I put some 0000 steel wool under my orbital instead of 1000 grit. When I am done with the steel wool, it is already so slick it feels like glass. I then clean it with denatured alcohol and wax it. It is so slick I have to be careful the wood doesn't get away from me as I push it toward the blade.
I looked at the Nano technology coat from carbon method - it looked good until I saw the price. With the results I already get, I can clean mine as often as needed and cost me way less than their product. BTW - I live in humid Florida and don't have an excess rust problem.
Qapla ! that is why I'm trying carbon method. I hope I don't have to do any maintaince and only have to maybe touch up every few years. Wax just never really lasted very liong. My anal mind if it got just a bit unslick I'd have to do it all over aghain. I commend you for putting in all that work I would almost hat to work on it... thanks for viewing
@@TheShackHome I understand the reason behind using the carbon method - if it didn't cost $80-$100 to try it, I would think about ... but, Social Security only goes so far and "elbow grease" fits my budget
I’m promise I’m not trying to be disrespectful or a know it all, in fact I’m 100% certain I could learn a massive amount from you (already have learned quite a bit through your channel haha) seeing as how you have decades of experience and I’m just beginning my woodworking journey, having said that, I wanted to mention real quick, wouldn’t the way you are sanding the table top cause it to be lower in the middle than the sides? I always thought that when you go left to right then back to the left finishing at the left, the middle ends up getting sanded twice as much as the sides do so that when you’re finished the whole table is cupped. I absolutely could be wrong, but I just thought I’d mention it seeing as how it’s a néw saw and an out of flat reference surface has got to be one of the most annoying problems I’ve encountered so far in the shop haha. By the way, I just moved to Redondo Beach from Irvine and was in Irvine for a solid five years, barely started watching your channel about a year and a half ago and it never really clicked in my mind that you might be located in Huntington Beach, are you? You definitely seem like one of those rad older guys I randomly would run into when I was located in Costa Mesa/Huntington Beach and you also have the tan that would suggest you are lol. Anyway, thought I’d drop a line, love the channel and I’ll keep watching, maybe one day we will run into each other and you can teach me a thing or two idk ;)
Technically yes, you are correct. However it would take 100s of sandings to dish out a cast iron table. I had a 65 year old Delta Unisaw that I flatened the table with a belt sander first then a random orbital , came out great. Never and issue with it being dished. BTW, Always, Always, Always when finished sanding clean it with denatured alcohol not mineral spirits. Then Wax the top with Johnson's Paste wax. Mineral spirits will leave an oil after it dries.
Well, I suspect you just enjoy putting overkill effort into things.
I achieve the same result on my table saw using my 6" orbital using 400 grit, then 600 grit followed by paste wax buffing.
No WD40 needed.
Tom Owens its not over kill its satisfaction of a job well done without power tools. There are certain tasks I prefer to do by hand and this is one. It's my anal craziness but I like the look of my table to doing it this way vs. a power sander crating swirls all over plus doing some tasks by hand give one a certain sense of pride and accomplishment. We all have our differences and the way we do thing this is mine. Thanks for the comment and for viewing,
Tom - Did you end up with swirl marks on the table top?
Could you use a random orbit sander vs. hand sanding?
FFG yes but in my weird anal view I don't want swirls on my top. I like the sanding in one direction more pleasing to my eyes plus some jobs I just prefer to do by hand. with an orbital sander if you don't keep it moving you can sand low spots. Not that metal is as soft but you get the picture. by hand I can control and can never sand one spot too low.
all ya gotta do is put paste wax on it
Sir, please learn to level the audio content of your videos. People are much more willing to watch and "like" a video where the music isn't ten times louder than the speaker. You asked us to watch you work on your table saw, not listen to an annoying soundtrack.
My two cents, All the Best!