I got 12 of those 10 A supplies for student use. Their 10 Ohm NTC inrush limiters burned out after only a year or so, but replacing them with 5 Ohm NTCs seems to have eliminated the problem. Those truly worried might add inductance in series as well.
Check out the Kettle socket on the rear panel is wired incorrectly and not uk complient, the fuse is in line with the netural , and is a switched netural .. I added a Internal fuse , and rewired it so its a switched live, so i have fuse in neutral and live now ,
Yeah I'm gonna do some projects like this though I'm not sure I will get the 30V 10A out of it. I think I could do better with an old linear transformer taken from a scrap audio amplifier so let's see
Halogen lamps will happily run to around 150% of power for a minute or so, so you can use the 2 to go to the full 10A. Have taken them up carefully to around 18V with no problems, just you have to use a ceramic holder with the high temperature silicone leads, otherwise they do burn the croc clips off quite well. Taken incandescent 230V lamps all the way to 340VAC over a few seconds, and aside from them turning into photoflood lamps (which is what a photoflood lamp is, a really overdriven incandescent, running just short of melting, so it has a 25 hour life) for a while. These were actual lamps made when the Phoebus cartel was around, limiting lamp life to under 1000 hours, so they are pretty rugged, just not long life.
I picked up the 30W 6A a while ago and honestly haven't even used it. Now I got mine out messing around. I remember when I bought it they wanted like $80US for the black model compared to (I think it was) $50 I paid for mine at the time.
I have a similar one on my bench that I use all the time for quick tests. I have a couple of TTI linear power supplies (bought broken and repaired) too but for quickness and convenience I use this. There is a video of a mod to lower the switch mode noise somewhere on RUclips which I think is to do with the input to the switching MOSFET but don't quote me on that. All in all a useful little thing for not a lot of money.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair OK reword question. The PSU is On. you fit an external On Off switch between PSU O/P and load, Switch off external switch to the load, Hence now in Stand BY - what is the AC Current Draw of the PSU because it is still On ?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair OK Reword Question. Fitted between the PSU O/P and load is an external switch. The PSU is On and set to 12v @ 1amp. The external switch is Off, Hence the PSU is in stand by. What is the AC current draw of the PSU in stand by?
@@uksuperrascal Oh I see - yeah it is still on and drawing whatever current it does with no output load. No I didn't measure it but I will do that and reply. What would you consider a good result? I assume if you are asking you have some figure in mind otherwise there would not be much point to the question as there would be no conclusion to draw from the answer yeah?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I have put together a 100A 90V to 500V AC Domestic Appliance Current and Volt test meter, The measured resoults are displaied via 6 LED 8 segment displays, 3 for AC Volts and 3 for the Amps measured, when under load of say a fridge frezzer when the pump cycle is active OR Say a washing machine in heat cycle for maximum load. You take the readings and With Ohms Law. V times I = Watts. This all started when I was thinking of going Off Grid with a 6kw solar Off Grid Inverter Charger and Batteries setup. So far I have got the price down to £4K complete setup. All the test meters I could find only had a max load of 3Kw , So I built my 24Kw metet, just to see what my appliances loads were with ever thing ON just like when on the Grid.
I didn't know that was a common thing, because I baught a power supply that has a good chance of overshooting but its got a button to turn the power supply on, then another button to activate the power output. The odd thing I don't get is why don't they add some sort of a delay before allowing the voltage to be output. I may at some point put something like a relay between the output and my banana jacks on some sort of a timer to allow the overshoot to occur and then just output the voltage. It should be a simple project since I can test it initially from the power supply and just check for any overshoot and then eventually fit it into the power supply.
Just FYI, it's really easy to convert ATX power supplies for bench use. You can get them cheap, if not close to free, from older systems. You get multiple, high amp voltages to use. For instance, from a 600W ATX you can break out: +12V @ 20A, -12V @ 1A, +5V @ 34A, +3.3V @ 28A and more. It's very handy to have +/- volts and multi outs. And you can now buy cheap "24 pin ATX Breakout Boards" so you don't have to do any wiring. Highly recommended, even if you already have a PS.
But that is rather missing the point - for a bench PSU (especially for repair work) it is essential to control the output current from 0.01A to the maximum the PSU can supply, and for short tracing you need to set the output to match the voltage rail you are tracing (0.8V, 1V, 1.35V 1.8V all come to mind as common settings)
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Totally. I agree you need an adjustable PS for the bench. I was just throwing that out there. It's just great what you can get out of an ATX PS that's just lying around. You can add adjustability with ICs like a simple LM317 and the like as well as get high voltages if you wish with cheap boost converters with all the available amps you have at your disposal. It's a good way to learn as well. At the very least, you get a positive and negative voltage you can use for op amps. That's one thing I wish bench supplies offered. A negative voltage is needed quite often and is always lacking.
@@nonsuch And I totally agree in return to be honest. Depending on your budget, a modified ATX is a good option. Home made bench PSU is one of the most popular/requested electronics projects out there and I built them myself in the past when I couldn't afford to buy one. Yes they have limitations, but they are certainly better than nothing. One of my bench PSU as you saw in the video, is a dual output one but they are not so common, or cheap. Another good option for op amp projects etc is to use two 12V Positive supplies (the wall wart type) and connect the positive output of one to the negative output of the other. This becomes your center tap (ground, 0V) and you have plus/minus 12V rails, often with higher current than the ATX -12V can supply.
Hi Tim - Yeah it has an inline fuse 250V 5A - the fuse holder is integrated into the IEC mains power socket on the back of the unit - so it is the first thing that the mains power goes to.
Answered already in response to another query - it has good continuity to mains earth from the chassis/case. Neither of the output terminals are earthed. This is a good thing or a bad thing depending on how you are using it.
I have a NANKADAF WP535H programmable power supply, you can set each digit manually and press in to lock that number in, very easy to use didn't cost the earth either.
I'm not sure how I feel about programmable power supplies. To be honest I haven't tried one. Have you used both types and do you find the using the controls takes longer to set up on the programmable supply compared with simply turning a knob for volts and amps like on this supply and the other two I own?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I haven't but I understand the purpose. I suppose it would take slightly longer to set this one but once set it remembers even if you disconnect it, so I guess there must have a battery in there.
@@jonathaningram4672 Yeah I can see that if it stores your settings in memory and you can recall them at the touch of a button is it quicker. As I said I never used one myself so I can't really express an opinion - it's just something I have in the back of my mind that the type with control knobs is the quicker/easier to use. I guess the best person to answer would be someone who owns both types. Can anyone else answer this question?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I guess your right, someone that has owned both types but the one you got to demonstrate would have been like jet lag. Like you said capacitors charging discharging to achieve voltage. For me this perfect, one glimpse of display I know what it's doing, it literally takes couple of seconds to dial in and lock, the twist variable one you demoed seems to over volt by milliamps. When this one is set it's pretty accurate.
6:35 - About output capacitors, Sorin from "Electronics repair school" YT stated that those capacitors can burn things even if you have current limiter.
@orion 310591 This is rather incorrect - those output capacitors like Sorin said not only can but WILL burn things even when you have a current limiter but they apply equally to SMPS based bench PSU and Linear bench PSU - they both have them and they are just as bad on both. I proved this fact a while ago on #LER on a video using a linear PSU and when I have time tomorrow I will go and find it for you. Yes you are right about the output capacitor problem but you are equally wrong thinking it only applies to switch mode PSU.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I could have mixed 2 sentences from 2 videos, to avoid confusion I removed last one. I would like to see that video, I am in process of getting PSU.
how s it workin the potentiometers on these things are horrendous plastic crap wont take long to start glitching at all especially if u turn them a lot, like the voltage knob
As you see in this video I have two linear power supplies as well. This is a cheaper alternative. I's not perfect but it's a fair compromise between price and usefulness
Is the 0V terminal connected to Gnd internally? When you turn it on (either at supply or front button) and output is set to say 1.3V, do you get a spike on output above 1.3V and so it would blow a connected low voltage prototype? When you turn it off, do you get a spike above 1.3V before the voltage rail drops to 0? What is noise and ripple like when under load?
Yes possibly on any PSU, bench or otherwise - this is why talk about wiring up a switch on the output in the video so you can turn it on them attach it to the DUT😉 Ripple with no load and under load I tested, did you watch the whole video?
@@steve6375 No worries mate - as you see it performs pretty well for ripple both with and without load. And I do discuss the lack of an output voltage switch, though in fairness neither of my other PSU have one which is why I built the little switch box I showed, its not perfect but I think at the price range it is a very good choice for electronics hobbyists on a budget.
It seems to have enough space inside to do a hack and put a switch to the output on the case. But with that said, the time + effort + swithc price, you caould buy one with a switch already integrated. I am happy with my generic 30V 5A RND one.
Does your 30V 5A one have an output voltage switch? Mine doesn't as I mentioned. Yeah I am quite happy with my two bench PSU but there are occasions I can't get enough current into a short to trace it and I think this one will come in useful to me.
@@marcellipovsky8222 Nice. This is a feature I think all bench PSU should have ,and is costs so little to implement I really don't understand why they don't have.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair When I searched for a power supply, I specifically looked for one with the switch. And you are right, a bench PSU SHOULD have a switch. The one I have now is being sold under different brands. It is not "the best" on the market, but also costs about 90 EUR + VAT and you don't have to shorten the leads to set a maximum current and you can have 4 pre-sets.
Bought a similar item lately. The voltage output on the display was different form the real output. Tried to adjust it by randomly trying the trim pots and seems that my 35volt 5amps can now do near 8 amps, maybe more? would this be safe? I did not push it more but there is a model that does 10amp, so this is weird, If any one here has any input, is it possible that the only difference is in the trimpot being set for either 5amps or 10 amps and they are selling that to us? it does seems like it... thanks!
I have given up posting to this video. I had referred to other brands one of which is a linear power supply that is not much more money here in Canada and those posts are not showing up here. This featured power supply is $117 CAD.
Greg M I am not stopping you or anyone else posting alternatives here - email them to me electronicanaria@outlook.com and I will happily add them for you. I gave an honest opinion on this one, its not expensive (I can get the 10A version less than €60) and it works well enough to be useful
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I think it is RUclips automatic filters that are removing the posts. I will email you the exact post I tried to make. This 10A one is $117 CDN from the same eCommerce source.
I can also get a WANPTEK APS3010H which is 30V 10A but is $16 more than this PS from AExp. It offers an Output switch as well as a power switch. Supposedly Ripple voltage:≤0.5% Vp-p and 3 memory settings and USB output included. One gets overwhelmed with the choices and just throws up hands.
Here is actual post Greg M was trying to make, which he then forwarded to me by email: This is the exact post that I tried to post 2 or 3 times before I gave up. Something in it is triggering RUclips's automatic filters and in turn, removes the post without your intervention. Perhaps it is Banggood in the text below. I don't know. These are 5A PS Looking for a ps here and had narrowed it down to Korad KA3005D and KA3005-P from Amazon w free shipping. These are linear power supplies and are $145 CDN and $187 CDN on Amazon with free shipping. Another option is from AliExpress and the GopherT PPS-3205 30v 5A for $92.28 CDN w free shipping. This Banggood power supply by the way for comparison is $117 CDN from Banggood. Neither of these PS has the power-off button to separate the PS from the device. The problem I found at least with AliExpress is that the shipping for PS is more than the PS is worth. The problem with buying via AliExpress and probably Banggood is shipping a faulty item back is cost prohibitive.
Hello, don't know much about electronics. Want to purchase a bench power supply. I see many choices from 30V 3 amp to 120V 3 amp ones for sale. Why wouldn't I buy the one with the most accessible Volts? I will be using it to check Kobalt 80V 6 amp batteries. What would anyone suggest? Thanks for your time.
Blimey, that's expensive for what it is. £80 if you want it shipped to the UK (from your link), from china in maybe 5-6 weeks. An equivalent from amazon, delivered tomorrow is £45.... I would also recommend opening it up and checking how safe it really is.
@Matthew Bullock Can I just ask what part of 'opening it up' I didn't do in the video you just watched? Because I am really quite confused about this recommendation at the moment. Did I not open it up sufficiently?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I meant actually check the safety more thoroughly. A quick 'that looks fine' doesn't really cut it for such an expensive power supply.
@@matthewsmetalworkshop I'm not expert enough on safety regulations to make that sort of judgement to be honest. The wiring looked neat, there is a ground terminal bolted to the chassis. I could do a continuity test to ground and an isolation (PAT) but nothing else. It appears better built than many ATX PSU I have opened up. If there are some other specific checks I should make then let me know and I will have a look
This seems expensive in the UK for some reason. When I click on the link I posted here, I get some postage options for Spain where I am based, and clicking CN gives me a price of €99.84 inc VAT with free shipping which is on a par with the price you have, but if I choose ship from PL I get €61.31 plus €0.76 postage so total €62.07 and delivery time of 8 days. I think anyone in the EU would see this price (unless someone can tell us otherwise) However I'm actually in the (spanish) Canary Islands so I don't pay IVA (Spanish version of VAT but it is 21%) which is automatically deducted at checkout same as when I order from AliExpress so I have a final price of €51.30 delivered, and to me that seems inexpensive. On the downside, Amazon don't deliver here, most of the time. morningexpress.in/we-do-not-serve-the-canary-islands-the-odyssey-of-buying-through-amazon-from-the-archipelago/ What price do you see from AliExpress? s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFSzqAn
I had a look on Amazon but this model is coming up at £121. What is the equivalent model you see for £45? I can only find 30V 5A at that price so only half the current output of this one, which is definitely not equivalent. The cheapest 30V 10A I can find is this one at £54.99 which has 4 digit display and a output ground connector but doesn't have the fine adjust on V and I. I never tried this model so I can't personally vouch for it but it has good review ratings on Amazon amzn.to/3cPWaJh
The small size and weight is abit of a put off to be honest, it doesnt look like it can manage 10 amps looking at it . A picky opinion but i prefer them to look the part
I didn't take a long time to soak test it but the fan did not even turn on while I was using it at 10A for a minute or two. TBH I can't think of any sort of repair work or project I have built that needs 10A for a long time. There are many ATX PSU that are no larger/heavier than this and yet can easily generate 300W output. I wouldn't call this a top quality bench PSU but it isn't aimed at that market and I do feel it is capable enough especially for hobbyists on a budget without sacrificing any functionality. I will certainly use it on occasion when I need to put more than 5A into a short for tracing purposes.
It is not clear if this power supply has a grounded negative or not. If it's designed like a computer ATX powersupply, then the negative is grounded. If you work with electronics, you have to know if your powersource is grounded or not to prevent you from surprises. Most bench powersupplies have the green earth banana jack, so you can choose if you want to ground the output or not. In some cases it's handy that the output is grounded, but in some cases it can cause damage or misreadings.
@Bjorn V I'm a the workshop now so I tested this first thing. The output negative (and for that matter positive) terminals are isolated from ground. Like you say, this can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on your use of the PSU. It would nice to see an earth strap link like I do on my Lavolta PSU. My Iso-Tech dual 30V-3A psu also has isolated output terminals but at least there is an earth terminal on for outputs so you can easily strap any terminal to earth if you need to.
I have a power supply of that series. It is the 6A vmodel. It has quite a lot of disadvantages. There is a lot of ripple on low voltages. The ripple is also not continue, but it comes in "trains". The controls are difficult to use. The overload and short circuit detection are slow (the voltage is cut down very slow). You get what you pay for. It is not like a linear supply.
Thanks Kris, I think I touched on most of the points you make. I think it is fine for general hobby/repair use, I will be trying it in future on some real repairs so we can get a better idea. I already have two linear power supplies as you saw in this video.
Hi. Im looking for a powersupply to run my large lemax Winter village. Now Im using a lot of 4,5v 1000ma supplys. So question be.. Can i use a supply like the one in your video to power a lot of buildings up to a load 4,5v 10A?. (Each lemax item is typical 50-300ma)
I did not watch the whole video but it looks less than useful because I only see one on / off switch? A proper PSU should have both an on / off switch and a second switch to turn the output voltage on or off. This way if you have the thing set to a higher voltage and you connect it to say some digital circuit running at 5 volts you don't blow it up having a chance to adjust the voltage before outputting the voltage and current.
It is garbage! Do not use it. Huge delay due to huge cap at the output. Still big noise level. Slowly working constant current which needs load to be set. Utter garbage.
Be fair Robert, it isn't garbage it simply has it's limitations, most of which I think I demonstrated. Some viewers here are using things like an old ATX PSU, with various modifications, as a bench PSU. Compared to that this is a pretty good power supply if it is at the top end of your budget but just still affordable to you.
Didn't I make that perfectly clear enough at 02:48 ???? I was being a bit tongue in cheek but the user manual clearly told me not to use this at an altitude above 2000m. They actually went to the effort to specifically state this fact in print. It didn't say why or what would happen if I did use it on a mountain higher than that but I thought I should play it safe, so I felt it was a fair comment to make. 😋
@@LearnElectronicsRepair yikes 😬 .. I skipped the part where you’re reading the manual cause it was just a basic power supply. Thanks for clarifying that again. You have the best tutorials.
@@xeroeffect5745 It happens lol, personally I think it is a ridiculous statement to make in the user manual, so much so my dry sense of humour made me add it to list of CONS. I should have put a sticky out tongue emoticon with it
I got 12 of those 10 A supplies for student use. Their 10 Ohm NTC inrush limiters burned out after only a year or so, but replacing them with 5 Ohm NTCs seems to have eliminated the problem. Those truly worried might add inductance in series as well.
That's useful to know, and an easy fix or mod to make. Thank you.
Check out the Kettle socket on the rear panel is wired incorrectly and not uk complient, the fuse is in line with the netural , and is a switched netural .. I added a Internal fuse , and rewired it so its a switched live, so i have fuse in neutral and live now ,
You can build a cheaper DIY lab bench power supply from an old PC ATX power supply and a boost buck converter (The LTC3780 for example).
Yeah I'm gonna do some projects like this though I'm not sure I will get the 30V 10A out of it. I think I could do better with an old linear transformer taken from a scrap audio amplifier so let's see
12:09 Electronics repairman's instinct kicking in
Oh yeah that is a reflex your learn pretty damn quick lol
Halogen lamps will happily run to around 150% of power for a minute or so, so you can use the 2 to go to the full 10A. Have taken them up carefully to around 18V with no problems, just you have to use a ceramic holder with the high temperature silicone leads, otherwise they do burn the croc clips off quite well. Taken incandescent 230V lamps all the way to 340VAC over a few seconds, and aside from them turning into photoflood lamps (which is what a photoflood lamp is, a really overdriven incandescent, running just short of melting, so it has a 25 hour life) for a while. These were actual lamps made when the Phoebus cartel was around, limiting lamp life to under 1000 hours, so they are pretty rugged, just not long life.
Bench power supply, Exactly about the subject currently I am looking for, how did you know?, I am looking for 12V output ripple less than 30mV
I picked up the 30W 6A a while ago and honestly haven't even used it. Now I got mine out messing around. I remember when I bought it they wanted like $80US for the black model compared to (I think it was) $50 I paid for mine at the time.
Nice review, cheerz !
;)
I have a similar one on my bench that I use all the time for quick tests. I have a couple of TTI linear power supplies (bought broken and repaired) too but for quickness and convenience I use this. There is a video of a mod to lower the switch mode noise somewhere on RUclips which I think is to do with the input to the switching MOSFET but don't quote me on that.
All in all a useful little thing for not a lot of money.
Only thing you did not check was the mains current draw when there is no load connected. ie as if in stand buy.
There on off switch breaks the live wire so there is no standby current
@@LearnElectronicsRepair OK reword question. The PSU is On. you fit an external On Off switch between PSU O/P and load, Switch off external switch to the load, Hence now in Stand BY - what is the AC Current Draw of the PSU because it is still On ?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair OK Reword Question. Fitted between the PSU O/P and load is an external switch. The PSU is On and set to 12v @ 1amp. The external switch is Off, Hence the PSU is in stand by. What is the AC current draw of the PSU in stand by?
@@uksuperrascal Oh I see - yeah it is still on and drawing whatever current it does with no output load. No I didn't measure it but I will do that and reply. What would you consider a good result? I assume if you are asking you have some figure in mind otherwise there would not be much point to the question as there would be no conclusion to draw from the answer yeah?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I have put together a 100A 90V to 500V AC Domestic Appliance Current and Volt test meter,
The measured resoults are displaied via 6 LED 8 segment displays, 3 for AC Volts and 3 for
the Amps measured, when under load of say a fridge frezzer when the pump cycle is active OR
Say a washing machine in heat cycle for maximum load. You take the readings and
With Ohms Law. V times I = Watts. This all started when I was thinking of going
Off Grid with a 6kw solar Off Grid Inverter Charger and Batteries setup. So far I have
got the price down to £4K complete setup. All the test meters I could find
only had a max load of 3Kw , So I built my 24Kw metet, just to see what my appliances
loads were with ever thing ON just like when on the Grid.
I didn't know that was a common thing, because I baught a power supply that has a good chance of overshooting but its got a button to turn the power supply on, then another button to activate the power output. The odd thing I don't get is why don't they add some sort of a delay before allowing the voltage to be output. I may at some point put something like a relay between the output and my banana jacks on some sort of a timer to allow the overshoot to occur and then just output the voltage.
It should be a simple project since I can test it initially from the power supply and just check for any overshoot and then eventually fit it into the power supply.
I enjoy your videos very much thank you very much for your information you are a very good teacher.
Just FYI, it's really easy to convert ATX power supplies for bench use. You can get them cheap, if not close to free, from older systems. You get multiple, high amp voltages to use. For instance, from a 600W ATX you can break out: +12V @ 20A, -12V @ 1A, +5V @ 34A, +3.3V @ 28A and more. It's very handy to have +/- volts and multi outs. And you can now buy cheap "24 pin ATX Breakout Boards" so you don't have to do any wiring. Highly recommended, even if you already have a PS.
But that is rather missing the point - for a bench PSU (especially for repair work) it is essential to control the output current from 0.01A to the maximum the PSU can supply, and for short tracing you need to set the output to match the voltage rail you are tracing (0.8V, 1V, 1.35V 1.8V all come to mind as common settings)
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Totally. I agree you need an adjustable PS for the bench. I was just throwing that out there. It's just great what you can get out of an ATX PS that's just lying around. You can add adjustability with ICs like a simple LM317 and the like as well as get high voltages if you wish with cheap boost converters with all the available amps you have at your disposal. It's a good way to learn as well. At the very least, you get a positive and negative voltage you can use for op amps. That's one thing I wish bench supplies offered. A negative voltage is needed quite often and is always lacking.
@@nonsuch And I totally agree in return to be honest. Depending on your budget, a modified ATX is a good option. Home made bench PSU is one of the most popular/requested electronics projects out there and I built them myself in the past when I couldn't afford to buy one. Yes they have limitations, but they are certainly better than nothing. One of my bench PSU as you saw in the video, is a dual output one but they are not so common, or cheap.
Another good option for op amp projects etc is to use two 12V Positive supplies (the wall wart type) and connect the positive output of one to the negative output of the other. This becomes your center tap (ground, 0V) and you have plus/minus 12V rails, often with higher current than the ATX -12V can supply.
Heya, I have a simmilar psu 30V 5A from ali and it does the job so for now it's fine for me
I might have missed it, but I did not see a Line Fuse on this device. Does it have a circuit breaker or line fuse within the chassis? Good review.
Hi Tim - Yeah it has an inline fuse 250V 5A - the fuse holder is integrated into the IEC mains power socket on the back of the unit - so it is the first thing that the mains power goes to.
Hi just a quick tip check the power lead for earth , I bought 1 similar and no continuity on the eath .
Answered already in response to another query - it has good continuity to mains earth from the chassis/case. Neither of the output terminals are earthed. This is a good thing or a bad thing depending on how you are using it.
I have a NANKADAF WP535H programmable power supply, you can set each digit manually and press in to lock that number in, very easy to use didn't cost the earth either.
I'm not sure how I feel about programmable power supplies. To be honest I haven't tried one. Have you used both types and do you find the using the controls takes longer to set up on the programmable supply compared with simply turning a knob for volts and amps like on this supply and the other two I own?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I haven't but I understand the purpose. I suppose it would take slightly longer to set this one but once set it remembers even if you disconnect it, so I guess there must have a battery in there.
@@jonathaningram4672 Yeah I can see that if it stores your settings in memory and you can recall them at the touch of a button is it quicker. As I said I never used one myself so I can't really express an opinion - it's just something I have in the back of my mind that the type with control knobs is the quicker/easier to use. I guess the best person to answer would be someone who owns both types. Can anyone else answer this question?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I guess your right, someone that has owned both types but the one you got to demonstrate would have been like jet lag. Like you said capacitors charging discharging to achieve voltage. For me this perfect, one glimpse of display I know what it's doing, it literally takes couple of seconds to dial in and lock, the twist variable one you demoed seems to over volt by milliamps. When this one is set it's pretty accurate.
@@jonathaningram4672 Yeah I totally agree the lag on this one is annoying! My other bench PSU are much better in this respect
6:35 - About output capacitors, Sorin from "Electronics repair school" YT stated that those capacitors can burn things even if you have current limiter.
@orion 310591
This is rather incorrect - those output capacitors like Sorin said not only can but WILL burn things even when you have a current limiter but they apply equally to SMPS based bench PSU and Linear bench PSU - they both have them and they are just as bad on both.
I proved this fact a while ago on #LER on a video using a linear PSU and when I have time tomorrow I will go and find it for you. Yes you are right about the output capacitor problem but you are equally wrong thinking it only applies to switch mode PSU.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I could have mixed 2 sentences from 2 videos, to avoid confusion I removed last one. I would like to see that video, I am in process of getting PSU.
how s it workin
the potentiometers on these things are horrendous
plastic crap
wont take long to start glitching at all
especially if u turn them a lot, like the voltage knob
I personally wish for a linear power supply. Might last longer. If the caps are Niko, Japanese.
As you see in this video I have two linear power supplies as well. This is a cheaper alternative. I's not perfect but it's a fair compromise between price and usefulness
Is the 0V terminal connected to Gnd internally? When you turn it on (either at supply or front button) and output is set to say 1.3V, do you get a spike on output above 1.3V and so it would blow a connected low voltage prototype? When you turn it off, do you get a spike above 1.3V before the voltage rail drops to 0? What is noise and ripple like when under load?
Yes possibly on any PSU, bench or otherwise - this is why talk about wiring up a switch on the output in the video so you can turn it on them attach it to the DUT😉 Ripple with no load and under load I tested, did you watch the whole video?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Sorry, missed the under load test!
@@steve6375 No worries mate - as you see it performs pretty well for ripple both with and without load. And I do discuss the lack of an output voltage switch, though in fairness neither of my other PSU have one which is why I built the little switch box I showed, its not perfect but I think at the price range it is a very good choice for electronics hobbyists on a budget.
Regards the 0V terminal is isolated from earth. This can be a bad thing or a good thing depending on what you are using the PSU for
It seems to have enough space inside to do a hack and put a switch to the output on the case. But with that said, the time + effort + swithc price, you caould buy one with a switch already integrated. I am happy with my generic 30V 5A RND one.
Does your 30V 5A one have an output voltage switch? Mine doesn't as I mentioned. Yeah I am quite happy with my two bench PSU but there are occasions I can't get enough current into a short to trace it and I think this one will come in useful to me.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Yes it does. I nice clicky one. Look up RND LAB 320-KA3005D
@@marcellipovsky8222 Nice. This is a feature I think all bench PSU should have ,and is costs so little to implement I really don't understand why they don't have.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair When I searched for a power supply, I specifically looked for one with the switch. And you are right, a bench PSU SHOULD have a switch.
The one I have now is being sold under different brands. It is not "the best" on the market, but also costs about 90 EUR + VAT and you don't have to shorten the leads to set a maximum current and you can have 4 pre-sets.
I bought one very similar but I wouldn’t have to make my own switch, it has one
Its useful. I have one thsts very similar
$74.99 on Banggood compared to $59.00 on eBay - interesting
Bought a similar item lately. The voltage output on the display was different form the real output. Tried to adjust it by randomly trying the trim pots and seems that my 35volt 5amps can now do near 8 amps, maybe more? would this be safe? I did not push it more but there is a model that does 10amp, so this is weird, If any one here has any input, is it possible that the only difference is in the trimpot being set for either 5amps or 10 amps and they are selling that to us? it does seems like it... thanks!
I have given up posting to this video. I had referred to other brands one of which is a linear power supply that is not much more money here in Canada and those posts are not showing up here. This featured power supply is $117 CAD.
Greg M I am not stopping you or anyone else posting alternatives here - email them to me electronicanaria@outlook.com and I will happily add them for you. I gave an honest opinion on this one, its not expensive (I can get the 10A version less than €60) and it works well enough to be useful
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I think it is RUclips automatic filters that are removing the posts. I will email you the exact post I tried to make. This 10A one is $117 CDN from the same eCommerce source.
I can also get a WANPTEK APS3010H which is 30V 10A but is $16 more than this PS from AExp. It offers an Output switch as well as a power switch. Supposedly Ripple voltage:≤0.5% Vp-p and 3 memory settings and USB output included. One gets overwhelmed with the choices and just throws up hands.
Here is actual post Greg M was trying to make, which he then forwarded to me by email:
This is the exact post that I tried to post 2 or 3 times before I gave up. Something in it is triggering RUclips's automatic filters and in turn, removes the post without your intervention. Perhaps it is Banggood in the text below. I don't know. These are 5A PS
Looking for a ps here and had narrowed it down to Korad KA3005D and KA3005-P from Amazon w free shipping. These are linear power supplies and are $145 CDN and $187 CDN on Amazon with free shipping. Another option is from AliExpress and the GopherT PPS-3205 30v 5A for $92.28 CDN w free shipping. This Banggood power supply by the way for comparison is $117 CDN from Banggood. Neither of these PS has the power-off button to separate the PS from the device. The problem I found at least with AliExpress is that the shipping for PS is more than the PS is worth.
The problem with buying via AliExpress and probably Banggood is shipping a faulty item back is cost prohibitive.
Have you seen the Light Bulb Current Limiting Devices like The One You Made..!!!
I've never seen them for sale but I must make a video on how to build one
@@LearnElectronicsRepair They on everyones favourite China Site..without saying the name..lol
@@weerobot What search are you using - I tried dim bulb tester, dim bulb current limiter, light bulb current limiter but with no results
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Type in "PSU electrical bulb" into Search Box it's on Page two...
Your advice please: would it be beneficial to CLEAN/treat all NON-SOLDERED contacts in an amplifier or preamplifier. Your thoughts please. Thx.
6:54 look at the numbers that display when he turns the screen on 👺👹😈
That lag is horrendous!
Hello, don't know much about electronics. Want to purchase a bench power supply. I see many choices from 30V 3 amp to 120V 3 amp ones for sale. Why wouldn't I buy the one with the most accessible Volts? I will be using it to check Kobalt 80V 6 amp batteries. What would anyone suggest? Thanks for your time.
dont know much + 120v sounds like formula for disaster
Blimey, that's expensive for what it is. £80 if you want it shipped to the UK (from your link), from china in maybe 5-6 weeks. An equivalent from amazon, delivered tomorrow is £45.... I would also recommend opening it up and checking how safe it really is.
@Matthew Bullock Can I just ask what part of 'opening it up' I didn't do in the video you just watched? Because I am really quite confused about this recommendation at the moment. Did I not open it up sufficiently?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I meant actually check the safety more thoroughly. A quick 'that looks fine' doesn't really cut it for such an expensive power supply.
@@matthewsmetalworkshop I'm not expert enough on safety regulations to make that sort of judgement to be honest. The wiring looked neat, there is a ground terminal bolted to the chassis. I could do a continuity test to ground and an isolation (PAT) but nothing else. It appears better built than many ATX PSU I have opened up. If there are some other specific checks I should make then let me know and I will have a look
This seems expensive in the UK for some reason. When I click on the link I posted here, I get some postage options for Spain where I am based, and clicking CN gives me a price of €99.84 inc VAT with free shipping which is on a par with the price you have, but if I choose ship from PL I get €61.31 plus €0.76 postage so total €62.07 and delivery time of 8 days. I think anyone in the EU would see this price (unless someone can tell us otherwise)
However I'm actually in the (spanish) Canary Islands so I don't pay IVA (Spanish version of VAT but it is 21%) which is automatically deducted at checkout same as when I order from AliExpress so I have a final price of €51.30 delivered, and to me that seems inexpensive. On the downside, Amazon don't deliver here, most of the time.
morningexpress.in/we-do-not-serve-the-canary-islands-the-odyssey-of-buying-through-amazon-from-the-archipelago/
What price do you see from AliExpress?
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFSzqAn
I had a look on Amazon but this model is coming up at £121. What is the equivalent model you see for £45? I can only find 30V 5A at that price so only half the current output of this one, which is definitely not equivalent. The cheapest 30V 10A I can find is this one at £54.99 which has 4 digit display and a output ground connector but doesn't have the fine adjust on V and I. I never tried this model so I can't personally vouch for it but it has good review ratings on Amazon
amzn.to/3cPWaJh
The small size and weight is abit of a put off to be honest, it doesnt look like it can manage 10 amps looking at it . A picky opinion but i prefer them to look the part
I didn't take a long time to soak test it but the fan did not even turn on while I was using it at 10A for a minute or two. TBH I can't think of any sort of repair work or project I have built that needs 10A for a long time. There are many ATX PSU that are no larger/heavier than this and yet can easily generate 300W output. I wouldn't call this a top quality bench PSU but it isn't aimed at that market and I do feel it is capable enough especially for hobbyists on a budget without sacrificing any functionality. I will certainly use it on occasion when I need to put more than 5A into a short for tracing purposes.
It is not clear if this power supply has a grounded negative or not. If it's designed like a computer ATX powersupply, then the negative is grounded. If you work with electronics, you have to know if your powersource is grounded or not to prevent you from surprises. Most bench powersupplies have the green earth banana jack, so you can choose if you want to ground the output or not. In some cases it's handy that the output is grounded, but in some cases it can cause damage or misreadings.
Quite Correct. Both of my my linear bench PSU have an external earth strap to negative as I mentioned in the video. I will check this morning.
@Bjorn V
I'm a the workshop now so I tested this first thing. The output negative (and for that matter positive) terminals are isolated from ground. Like you say, this can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on your use of the PSU. It would nice to see an earth strap link like I do on my Lavolta PSU. My Iso-Tech dual 30V-3A psu also has isolated output terminals but at least there is an earth terminal on for outputs so you can easily strap any terminal to earth if you need to.
I have a power supply of that series. It is the 6A vmodel. It has quite a lot of disadvantages. There is a lot of ripple on low voltages. The ripple is also not continue, but it comes in "trains". The controls are difficult to use. The overload and short circuit detection are slow (the voltage is cut down very slow). You get what you pay for. It is not like a linear supply.
Thanks Kris, I think I touched on most of the points you make. I think it is fine for general hobby/repair use, I will be trying it in future on some real repairs so we can get a better idea. I already have two linear power supplies as you saw in this video.
Hi. Im looking for a powersupply to run my large lemax Winter village. Now Im using a lot of 4,5v 1000ma supplys. So question be.. Can i use a supply like the one in your video to power a lot of buildings up to a load 4,5v 10A?. (Each lemax item is typical 50-300ma)
put a small load on it and it will respond better then your expensive one
The inside looks almost the same like a desktop power supply
Yeah it has quite a lot in common with an ATX PSU
9:43 THAT'S RUDE!!! Hahahaha
Please do a video on 'everything you need to know about bench power supplies...'
I did not watch the whole video but it looks less than useful because I only see one on / off switch? A proper PSU should have both an on / off switch and a second switch to turn the output voltage on or off. This way if you have the thing set to a higher voltage and you connect it to say some digital circuit running at 5 volts you don't blow it up having a chance to adjust the voltage before outputting the voltage and current.
if ur psu needs two damn switches to be useful
u r probably not all that useful
JUST ADJUST BEFORE CONNECTING
THERE IS THIS THING CALLED DISCONNECTING
Until you forget to disconnect and accidentally burn out your project...
This looks like a house burner lol
no
It is garbage! Do not use it. Huge delay due to huge cap at the output. Still big noise level. Slowly working constant current which needs load to be set. Utter garbage.
Be fair Robert, it isn't garbage it simply has it's limitations, most of which I think I demonstrated. Some viewers here are using things like an old ATX PSU, with various modifications, as a bench PSU. Compared to that this is a pretty good power supply if it is at the top end of your budget but just still affordable to you.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Exactly!
I’m trying to understand what the reference ‘don’t use if you live on a mountain’ has anything to do with anything. What am I missing here? 🫣
Refers to the elevation at which the power can operate at.
Didn't I make that perfectly clear enough at 02:48 ????
I was being a bit tongue in cheek but the user manual clearly told me not to use this at an altitude above 2000m. They actually went to the effort to specifically state this fact in print. It didn't say why or what would happen if I did use it on a mountain higher than that but I thought I should play it safe, so I felt it was a fair comment to make. 😋
@@LearnElectronicsRepair yikes 😬 .. I skipped the part where you’re reading the manual cause it was just a basic power supply. Thanks for clarifying that again. You have the best tutorials.
@@GregM Hello Greg 👋 always good to run into the same people. Hope you’re doing great.
@@xeroeffect5745 It happens lol, personally I think it is a ridiculous statement to make in the user manual, so much so my dry sense of humour made me add it to list of CONS. I should have put a sticky out tongue emoticon with it