Hi , I'm a New Zealand Architect and can honestly say I have learnt so much, both my father and great grand father were joiners. The little snippet of knowledge about Grecian and Roman arcs, and how you locate multiple beads is fascinating. Next time I'm on site I will be looking much more closely at the old sash window. Great video. Thank you so much!
These are the best videos I've come across on the whole web, Your obviously a fine tradesman, very efficient and accurate in your work plus a natural teacher . I wish i saw your videos 20 or so years ago. I've been blundering along by myself building windows, doors etc, not professionally, but watching your videos i see how I've been over complicating some aspects and missing others. If I could suggest a video on sharpening chisels/planes etc and a walk around your workshop looking at some of your fantastic machinery. Thanks for taking the time to share your joinery knowledge with us
Tony! Thanks for taking the time to comment! I'm really pleased you like the videos and its comments like yours that keep me going/doing the odd video!! I will look into doing some videos along them lines! :)
I have pleasure to meet U.. very nice fella… thank U for amazing machine from U… Will be fantastic cooperate with someone like U in future ;) many regardssss Bart
Thankyou Sean. I will hopefully do the install video soon. They have been sat looking at me in the workshop for months! The brush pile comes pre inserted into a plastic carrier, which has a self adhesive backing on it. It's sticky enough to hold it into place and once everything is fitted it's is lodged in place by the sash so they don't move.
You can do either, if you order glass to plan you need to make sure your drawings are absolutley spot on. If your working from an external size and order glass to suit the frame you make there is less room for error. Either is practical though, and offering glass upon starting can keep a job going. I normally order as soon as casements are glued up and the lead time is similar to finishing the windows
@@BradshawJoinery These videos are great, would you be able to list the glues and products you use on these acoya windows to glue and seal. I want to make sure i use the correct products on my DIY project. Thank you!
Great video again that way of marking the beads is brilliant I nailed my beads in with a single nail but going to use your method in future looking forward to the next video on glazing the windows
Great video, unique resource on the internet. I spent a long time working out for myself how to make these things a few years ago and there was nothing like this! Thanks for taking the time and good luck with the channel
Dear Sir I have glued myself to your magnificent program , if I may suggest , have you considered adding your Tutorial on a ( CD series ) I would very much purchase the entire series Thank you for you professional advice with the manufacturing application and safety . Kind regards from Sydney Australia
Excellent video as usual , Look forward to many more. I can't figure out why you don't have hundreds of thousands of subscribers. Attention to detail is second to none. By the way you don't happen to run classes on joinery? Best of luck and keep up the good work.
Thank you Richard. Your comment is very much appreciated. Maybe the subscribers will come, the idea of the channel was to document how I do things and what works for me and hopefully help a few others out along the way. I don't run any classes, is it something there is a demand for do you think?
Finally got around to making my replacement sash windows. I have a few questions, I’m using sapele to make the windows. Would you still glaze these from the outside like in your video? Adding draft strips, on the rod drawing video you showed one strip on the meeting rail. Do you add draft strips to anywhere else on the sashes? Or parting bead. Ace series on making sash windows. Cheers.
You can still glaze fromt he inside with sapele, many do, but o would probably stick to externally beaded i think. Although Sashes are generally quite protected as most sit within a brick reveal so im sure youll be fine. You can add the strips to the parting bead. I used to do this, but it leaves it very thin where you cut the recess! The brush piles make for a nice smooth closing action though, a 5mm brush with 1.5mm of space to work in is perfect as the bristles splay out and are soft. if you allow more room they rent to push on the sash and make it hard to move.
Hi, I have recently been watching these sash restoration videos. They are brilliant. They are perfectly detailed helping me start my own sliding sash design and build. I was wondering if you had similar videos to help with me with the frames and pulley mechanisms? Thanks so much. Mike
Wonderful four part series. This is akin to a whole class on window making. Thank you for putting together the videos and for putting so much information in them. Could you please let me know where I can buy the plans? Thanks.
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks for your interest. I would like to learn how to make windows from scratch, which is technically not the same as window restoration, but pretty close. I'd be glad to pay a pretty penny if the plans can help me save thousands for the windows I want to make for my house. I plan to use Ipe (Brazilian Walnut) since it's not that costly here and lasts a lifetime. Thanks for considering my request.
At the risk of repeating what others have said, this video is excellent, I am in the process of making sash windows, and despite having made some many moons ago, this was an extremely informative piece - well worth the time it took to produce! I am impressed at the maching capabilities of the Accoya that you used, I was looking at using it but cannot find a supplier for it that isnt either wanting me to take a 44 tonne load or alternately charge me a small fortune for it! Would you mind sharing who supplies you, so I can try them for a price please? Keep up the video's - they have to be the most informative I have seen!!
HI Buddy. Thankyou very much. I Use Lathams @ WIgston, but if you wanted a smaller quantity gibbs and dandy at Market Harborough will sell smaller amounts, but like you say at a premium. I pay around £2500 per m3 with the VAT, but it keeps creeping up
do you know where I can find a simpler process demonstrating how to make a sash window ? I have no moulding machine and some joints are too difficult to replicate as I have no machinery....... as yet ! Which basic machinery do you recommend (including names) for a small start up workshop ? Thank you for this video and your excellent casement window video series, inspiring me.
HI, not really, Your best bet is to interpret an alternative method of achieving the same cuts using what tools you have available. Multico tenoner is a good starter machine, otherwise, it more getting the machines than which one is better. My honest answer would be to copy what i have because thats what i would get, literally haha.
Yes, your equipment is very accurate but outside my budget. So I looked at old sash designs, and decided a circular with a dado blade to do tenon cheeks accurately and quick, a Moricer and a band saw and Makita 3612 router. I also need a planar thicknesser. Looking at second hand single phase. If you can advice on which manufacturers to select (best durability and accuracy) forthe above equipment, including cutting saw and Mortimer chisel blades, then I will send you money as a thank you. Hope that is alright with you. My workshop will be 8x4 m, expensive dust regulation is not required the workspace is essentially external but secure.
I dont really know what to recommend, Kian who helps me has just bought a Axminster 300mm planer thicknesser with the spiral cutterhead. Very very good and accurate. I would recommend a spiral head over any other, both for blade longevity, quality of finish and resale value. Morticer i would highly recommend the Sedgwick, but can pick up a multico a bit cheaper. Blades, ive lost my good supplier so am at a bit of a loss myself haha. Search for a local saw doctor/sharpening service and see which they sell or recommend as they will be sharpening it. Mortice chisels, is much the same, the same bloke supplied them also! I think Draper Expert are ok, Clico are the best.
Brilliant video, I am looking to replace my sash windows the same as your video. I have roughly 44mm thickness frame to play with. What is the thickest double glazing unit can I get in.
Hi Oliver, can I bug you again on some more details? I'm drawing up the sash components in sketchup, as full 3d models, just to get a feel for the joints etc before having a go at making some test pieces. I've used your dimensions for now. I saw, in the previous video, that that you reduced the width of the meeting rails by 1.5mm, making the width 50.5mm, so the meeting rebate depth becomes 6.5mm rather than 8mm to allow a gap between the meeting rails. In this video you set the rebate depth to 8mm. On my drawing, with the reduced width, the second tenon on the meeting rail (on the outside of the rail) clears the stile perfectly, without needing a housing in the stile, so something is out on my drawing. It looks like the housing you cut is 1.5 or 2mm deep? I don't know if you actually made the meeting rails 52mm in the end or I got somethnig wrong in my drawing? Cheers and thanks again for these videos! (can I paypal you a beer or two?)
Hey Richard, I tend to say sign up to Patreon if you want to donate back and ask questions on there and I try to prioritise my replies. In terms of the gap, it depends on the draught strip pile on the parting bead and how the two sashes interact around that. (Trial fit needed) You can rebate 8mmnand then the draught strip created a 1.5mm gap by pushing the stile away from the parting bead creating the clearance. Without rewatching my video, I assume I created the clearance by reducing the meeting rail section 🤔. As for the housing, set this about 3mm or deeper but don't get too close to the tenon. This can be whatever depth you feel 👍
The glass unit come pre assembled. There is a foam spacer between the panes set in from the edges then a very thick butyl type sealant gunned in the Void between the panes
Can i please ask, my brain is wrecked, when you look at the front of the stiles which direction is the 47 by 44. aka is it wider than the depth or vica versa. I'm getting close to a 3d model but it's not matching up exactly like yours, it's my mistake but arghh. Great videos!!!
Hi Sean. As you stand Infront, you would see 47mm on these windows and they would be 44mm thick or depth away from you. The depth will depend on your frames though as they can vary a fair bit!
Thank you that's super! 47mm wide and 44 deep. Might be back for another q if possible once I've figured it out. It's brilliant the detail in the videos, brilliant for anyone who is serious about making them!
Another question if possible l, what things do I need to look out for when making the Windows much bigger, can I scale up indefinitely (within reason) or is that a no no? Also would you ever pin the mortises? I had a child's wooden cot that the glue dried out and the sides started coming apart, got me thinking about Windows : ) could that happen with a window? ???
Hi Sean, generally windows and exterior woodwork tends to swell in the winter and shrink in the summer, mechanical locks on joints is a good idea in terms of that, but dowelling can add a point of ingress for water/rot. The most important thing is using the correct materials for the job. I dotn dowel my joints, and have not had a propblem yet!
Sizing, yes keep the timbers the same size just make the windows bigger. doors are more of an issue with big frames and the action of a door slamming can introduce wobble/ movement, but unlikely to see it in a window. Bigger frames, your going to be relying on the glazing mostly for integrity of the openings
@@BradshawJoinery Fantastic, thank you! With the power of the internet, I'm designing a house that will have large sliding sash windows, your advice and videos are brilliant to help guide me. Wasn't certain I could do it until I saw the full process laid out, Your local training agencies should offer you paid instructor time that suits you! Thanks very much.!!!!!
Top marks again for this. I had wondered though wouldnt it be easier, quicker and stronger to use a domino joiner instead of tenons? Also although its more expensive would you recommend using a close grained scots pine or douglas fir. I want to use a linseed paint as it seems a much more durable paint and it penetrates softwood far better than accoya.
Cheers Jake, you could use a domino on the joints, but not ideal over the 45 degree scribe, youd need the bigger domino machine. doesnt take too long to tenon and it gives a better joint than a domino. Ive never used linseed oil paint presonally but know some guys swear by it. Ive not had issue with Wb Opaque coatings on Accoya, they last bloomin ages. Pretty much any finish you used on accoya if done correctly lasts longer than on normal timber. I certainly wouldnt spec douglas fir or pine over accoya if you wanted durability and long life coating performance.
Do you have any videos where you explain the terminology you use? Like set back etc. Do you make joinery videos for joiners or are you trying to make educational videos?
HI, Yes most of my videos i try to explain the terminology, i explain setbacks almost every time i use one as its a easy thing to catch you out. If there is any your not sure of comment and i will explain. They are educational/entertainment videos for Joiners/diyers respectively. Setback is when marking out, you draw the position of the full size piece of timber on your stiles...then if the tenon on the piece your youve marked gets cut away by a groove or a rebate, then you need to use a setback on the mortice hole as the tenon has become narrower. If you dont use a setback then you end up with a gap in the joint the equivalent of the amount you have reduced the tenon witdh by(the groove or rebate depth) Are you a joiner or just learning?
Hi Oliver, is there any reason for scribing the bevel on the stile down through the rails instead of scribing the rail bevel into the stile? I guess you can do it either way, but just wondered if there is any advantage one way or the other.
Do you mean do a flat shoulder on the rail and cut the rail profile into the stile moulding? It could be done like that but would be difficult to get a tight joint and test fitting would possibly damage the joint. Also the scribe overnthe moulding on the rails add strength to the joint by stopping it twisting. Traditionally also styles and rails run through the entire length, having a rail full width wouldn't look correct and also means water would run down style and hit a joint rather than just run off.
@@BradshawJoinery Yes, I can see how it adds strength. Also, if the outside was an ovlo instead of a mitre/putty, a scribe through is going to be easier. Thanks.
Hi again, on 4.18 you say edges up with faces matching each other in pairs. It looks like you marked edges and put faces in top, sry can you confirm which is correct, I think I made the mistake you warned about :)
Hi Sean, always mark so the faces touch each other and the edges face up. The marks make a cross when the two pieces are put together. Hope that makes sense! The face side of the timber is the non rebated side and the mortice goes into the edge!
It's a good method for pulling joints tight, it doesn't work in all scenarios, a combination of the two is very strong but I wouldn't use draw boring in modern external joinery. End grain poking out to the elements isnt practical!
I'm absolutely sure I'm missing something here but at 1:16:36 wont the end of the rebate on the meeting rail clash with the parting bead since it's flush with the outside face of the stile?
Yes you are correct, you then cut the section away to fit between the parting beads so it is flush with the Stiles. I cannot do this until the windows are refurbished and j know that distance 👍
@@BradshawJoinery knew it 😏. I assume that jobs all wrapped up now? Did you end up having to do anything to the frames btw. I happen to be doing a few atm, seems Victorian chippys didn’t know what a box or a wagtail was 😂
Gday made, I did a little clip of how I do the meeting rails, saves a lot of flaffing around, makes it two step, and is easily customisable for stock thickness and tenon thickness. I set it up off a rail tenon, which gives you tenon placement and exact thickness for stock ( dial up or down groover). Then all you have to do is cut the shoulder on RAS ( like I mentioned before the only way to F up is if you mortise top sash meet rail off the face side, it needs to be from outside ( normally rebate side) because of the way you have to put that meeting rail through spindle. It’s quick, easy and deadly accurate 👍🏻 It’s on ‘my channel’ 😂👍🏻 Take care mate 👍🏻
Hi mate, thanks for that! I see and understand the method there, nice one easier than 3 cuts on the bandsaw 👍 You wouldn't even need a tenoning setup for the spindle to use it if you had a false or aigner style fence and back the cut with a square board thick enough to be cut into! It's something else to have a video reply so thanks for that and for the well wishes at Christmas! Sorry I've not seen it until now! All the best! Olly
I think the camera makes it look bigger as anyone that has seen in person Vs what they were expecting has said the workshop looks smaller! My main shop is 10m X 10m then I have 10m X 4m spray booth building plus barn for storage and the container. I'd need a fair size shop to bring it all together.
@@BradshawJoinery yeah, I’m gradually improving my gear 😂. Got a format 4 spindle ‘Promised’ to me. Life will change then ( digital height and fence?!?!! No ‘bump and go’ 🙄) Trying gradually to make everything easier and higher quality, placing an order with whitehill for some heads and cutters 👍🏻
You have done beautiful work here, but unfortunately I think you took a step backwards here on the finished project. You went from old growth wood to plantation grown wood which will rot much quicker, and from single glazed glass to double glazed which will fail much sooner. Not to mention the thickness changes will have a small affect on curb appeal and shadow lines. In my humble opinion you would have been better served and spent less money had you simply stripped these down to bare wood, and restored them with putty glazing and then installed some high quality weather stripping. Interesting watch though, thanks for sharing!
HI Christopher, thankyou, just to help understand the situation, there is a very slight timber sight line increase ont he meeting rail, but a few mm, the res is the same as original. the wood used for the sashes is Accoya and superior to old growth redwood in almost every way. Its well worth investing some time learning about Accoya if you are interested in it! The 14mm double glazing is almost invisible at the edges, and the draught strips are also not seen when the windows are closed. Ill finish this video series soon and all will be revealed. Thankyou for watching and hope that clears some things up. :)
@@BradshawJoinery accoya I see. I was judging it based on the minimal growth rings. I’ve heard good things about accoya yes. The old growth wood there on the originals seemed to be in solid shape no? Except for that one sill that was really bad. If not for the addition of the new glass, would you have still switched. I’m into restoring old windows and keeping them going for another 100 years. You are a much better carpenter than me and I certainly meant no insult, just have never seen someone go through this process. I am looking forward to the end result though, thanks!
If you would like to show your support by giving back to us go to our Patreon page here - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery
Hi , I'm a New Zealand Architect and can honestly say I have learnt so much, both my father and great grand father were joiners. The little snippet of knowledge about Grecian and Roman arcs, and how you locate multiple beads is fascinating. Next time I'm on site I will be looking much more closely at the old sash window. Great video. Thank you so much!
Cheers Kiwi, thats good to hear! Stay safe :)
Well done👍
These are the best videos I've come across on the whole web, Your obviously a fine tradesman, very efficient and accurate in your work plus a natural teacher . I wish i saw your videos 20 or so years ago. I've been blundering along by myself building windows, doors etc, not professionally, but watching your videos i see how I've been over complicating some aspects and missing others. If I could suggest a video on sharpening chisels/planes etc and a walk around your workshop looking at some of your fantastic machinery. Thanks for taking the time to share your joinery knowledge with us
Tony! Thanks for taking the time to comment! I'm really pleased you like the videos and its comments like yours that keep me going/doing the odd video!! I will look into doing some videos along them lines! :)
I have pleasure to meet U.. very nice fella… thank U for amazing machine from U… Will be fantastic cooperate with someone like U in future ;) many regardssss
Bart
Nice to meet you too and good luck with everything! Many thanks
Wow ! It's a pleasure to watch your create those masterpieces. Congrats !
Thankyou! :)
Exceptional
Thankyou
Absolute gold
Thankyou Christopher!
Awesome workmanship
Thank you Andrew your very kind!
Thanks so much for sharing. So much to learn from this.
Thankyou Sean. I will hopefully do the install video soon. They have been sat looking at me in the workshop for months!
The brush pile comes pre inserted into a plastic carrier, which has a self adhesive backing on it. It's sticky enough to hold it into place and once everything is fitted it's is lodged in place by the sash so they don't move.
Thanks very much, im trying to figure this sash making out, the install would be amazing!!!!
When you order glazing, do you measure the frames before you order? Or trust the joinery to be to the plans?
You can do either, if you order glass to plan you need to make sure your drawings are absolutley spot on. If your working from an external size and order glass to suit the frame you make there is less room for error. Either is practical though, and offering glass upon starting can keep a job going. I normally order as soon as casements are glued up and the lead time is similar to finishing the windows
@@BradshawJoinery These videos are great, would you be able to list the glues and products you use on these acoya windows to glue and seal. I want to make sure i use the correct products on my DIY project. Thank you!
Great video again that way of marking the beads is brilliant I nailed my beads in with a single nail but going to use your method in future looking forward to the next video on glazing the windows
Great to hear, thanks Pete!! Its very handy having them labelled to an exact location!!
Full of really great tips. Thankyou for such an in detail Lesson.
My pleasure Andrew. Thankyou for the comment, the positive feedback really makes it worthwhile.
Thanks Bradshaw joinery for all your advice through the comments this year. Your vids have been brilliant for me. Happy xmas and NY when we get to it.
Thanks a lot Sean, really appreciate it. Happy New Year bud
Great video, unique resource on the internet. I spent a long time working out for myself how to make these things a few years ago and there was nothing like this!
Thanks for taking the time and good luck with the channel
Thankyou Michael. Really appreciate your comment! I'll put as much on as I can so plenty more to come!
You do great job, nice, i like it👍👍
Thankyou Lukas!
Dear Sir I have glued myself to your magnificent program , if I may suggest , have you considered adding your Tutorial on a ( CD series ) I would very much purchase the entire series
Thank you for you professional advice with the manufacturing application and safety . Kind regards from Sydney Australia
Hi Christian, I haven't no. The idea of the videos is to help people primarily. You'll enjoy the series coming up then.... Full box sash window build
nice machinery buddy, I noticed the Sedgwick morticer in the background, I own the same machine and I love mine.
it is a fantastic machine and with a sharp chisel mortices effortlessly. I bought mine new a few years back, its been faultless.
Excellent video as usual , Look forward to many more. I can't figure out why you don't have hundreds of thousands of subscribers. Attention to detail is second to none. By the way you don't happen to run classes on joinery? Best of luck and keep up the good work.
Thank you Richard. Your comment is very much appreciated. Maybe the subscribers will come, the idea of the channel was to document how I do things and what works for me and hopefully help a few others out along the way. I don't run any classes, is it something there is a demand for do you think?
Finally got around to making my replacement sash windows. I have a few questions, I’m using sapele to make the windows. Would you still glaze these from the outside like in your video?
Adding draft strips, on the rod drawing video you showed one strip on the meeting rail. Do you add draft strips to anywhere else on the sashes? Or parting bead.
Ace series on making sash windows. Cheers.
You can still glaze fromt he inside with sapele, many do, but o would probably stick to externally beaded i think. Although Sashes are generally quite protected as most sit within a brick reveal so im sure youll be fine.
You can add the strips to the parting bead. I used to do this, but it leaves it very thin where you cut the recess! The brush piles make for a nice smooth closing action though, a 5mm brush with 1.5mm of space to work in is perfect as the bristles splay out and are soft. if you allow more room they rent to push on the sash and make it hard to move.
Hi, I have recently been watching these sash restoration videos. They are brilliant. They are perfectly detailed helping me start my own sliding sash design and build. I was wondering if you had similar videos to help with me with the frames and pulley mechanisms? Thanks so much. Mike
I will be doing one, but this job is on the back burner for the time being. There will be one eventually!
How is the sash window business going?
what wood are you using?
Wonderful four part series. This is akin to a whole class on window making. Thank you for putting together the videos and for putting so much information in them. Could you please let me know where I can buy the plans? Thanks.
HI, i havent released any plans yet. is it something that would be of interest and what would you like included?
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks for your interest. I would like to learn how to make windows from scratch, which is technically not the same as window restoration, but pretty close. I'd be glad to pay a pretty penny if the plans can help me save thousands for the windows I want to make for my house. I plan to use Ipe (Brazilian Walnut) since it's not that costly here and lasts a lifetime. Thanks for considering my request.
At the risk of repeating what others have said, this video is excellent, I am in the process of making sash windows, and despite having made some many moons ago, this was an extremely informative piece - well worth the time it took to produce!
I am impressed at the maching capabilities of the Accoya that you used, I was looking at using it but cannot find a supplier for it that isnt either wanting me to take a 44 tonne load or alternately charge me a small fortune for it! Would you mind sharing who supplies you, so I can try them for a price please?
Keep up the video's - they have to be the most informative I have seen!!
HI Buddy. Thankyou very much. I Use Lathams @ WIgston, but if you wanted a smaller quantity gibbs and dandy at Market Harborough will sell smaller amounts, but like you say at a premium. I pay around £2500 per m3 with the VAT, but it keeps creeping up
do you know where I can find a simpler process demonstrating how to make a sash window ? I have no moulding machine and some joints are too difficult to replicate as I have no machinery....... as yet ! Which basic machinery do you recommend (including names) for a small start up workshop ? Thank you for this video and your excellent casement window video series, inspiring me.
HI, not really, Your best bet is to interpret an alternative method of achieving the same cuts using what tools you have available. Multico tenoner is a good starter machine, otherwise, it more getting the machines than which one is better. My honest answer would be to copy what i have because thats what i would get, literally haha.
Yes, your equipment is very accurate but outside my budget. So I looked at old sash designs, and decided a circular with a dado blade to do tenon cheeks accurately and quick, a Moricer and a band saw and Makita 3612 router. I also need a planar thicknesser. Looking at second hand single phase. If you can advice on which manufacturers to select (best durability and accuracy) forthe above equipment, including cutting saw and Mortimer chisel blades, then I will send you money as a thank you. Hope that is alright with you. My workshop will be 8x4 m, expensive dust regulation is not required the workspace is essentially external but secure.
I dont really know what to recommend, Kian who helps me has just bought a Axminster 300mm planer thicknesser with the spiral cutterhead. Very very good and accurate. I would recommend a spiral head over any other, both for blade longevity, quality of finish and resale value. Morticer i would highly recommend the Sedgwick, but can pick up a multico a bit cheaper. Blades, ive lost my good supplier so am at a bit of a loss myself haha. Search for a local saw doctor/sharpening service and see which they sell or recommend as they will be sharpening it. Mortice chisels, is much the same, the same bloke supplied them also! I think Draper Expert are ok, Clico are the best.
There is an auction ending today with some cheap kit on, www.bpiauctions.com/auctions/#!/auctions/031df0ad-a7ec-4e34-8d47-3a799f75d000?ic=30
Brilliant video, I am looking to replace my sash windows the same as your video.
I have roughly 44mm thickness frame to play with. What is the thickest double glazing unit can I get in.
4-6-4 in a 30mm rebate in my opinion. Leaves just enough for a bead and to get a catch on the meeting rails
Hi Oliver, can I bug you again on some more details?
I'm drawing up the sash components in sketchup, as full 3d models, just to get a feel for the joints etc before having a go at making some test pieces. I've used your dimensions for now.
I saw, in the previous video, that that you reduced the width of the meeting rails by 1.5mm, making the width 50.5mm, so the meeting rebate depth becomes 6.5mm rather than 8mm to allow a gap between the meeting rails.
In this video you set the rebate depth to 8mm. On my drawing, with the reduced width, the second tenon on the meeting rail (on the outside of the rail) clears the stile perfectly, without needing a housing in the stile, so something is out on my drawing. It looks like the housing you cut is 1.5 or 2mm deep?
I don't know if you actually made the meeting rails 52mm in the end or I got somethnig wrong in my drawing?
Cheers and thanks again for these videos! (can I paypal you a beer or two?)
Hey Richard, I tend to say sign up to Patreon if you want to donate back and ask questions on there and I try to prioritise my replies.
In terms of the gap, it depends on the draught strip pile on the parting bead and how the two sashes interact around that. (Trial fit needed)
You can rebate 8mmnand then the draught strip created a 1.5mm gap by pushing the stile away from the parting bead creating the clearance. Without rewatching my video, I assume I created the clearance by reducing the meeting rail section 🤔.
As for the housing, set this about 3mm or deeper but don't get too close to the tenon. This can be whatever depth you feel 👍
@@BradshawJoinery Just signed up! Now I can rewatch your vids without ads!
Hi. How do you keep condensation out between the 2 layers of glass?
The glass unit come pre assembled. There is a foam spacer between the panes set in from the edges then a very thick butyl type sealant gunned in the Void between the panes
Can i please ask, my brain is wrecked, when you look at the front of the stiles which direction is the 47 by 44. aka is it wider than the depth or vica versa. I'm getting close to a 3d model but it's not matching up exactly like yours, it's my mistake but arghh. Great videos!!!
Hi Sean. As you stand Infront, you would see 47mm on these windows and they would be 44mm thick or depth away from you. The depth will depend on your frames though as they can vary a fair bit!
Thank you that's super! 47mm wide and 44 deep. Might be back for another q if possible once I've figured it out. It's brilliant the detail in the videos, brilliant for anyone who is serious about making them!
Another question if possible l, what things do I need to look out for when making the Windows much bigger, can I scale up indefinitely (within reason) or is that a no no? Also would you ever pin the mortises? I had a child's wooden cot that the glue dried out and the sides started coming apart, got me thinking about Windows : ) could that happen with a window? ???
Hi Sean, generally windows and exterior woodwork tends to swell in the winter and shrink in the summer, mechanical locks on joints is a good idea in terms of that, but dowelling can add a point of ingress for water/rot. The most important thing is using the correct materials for the job. I dotn dowel my joints, and have not had a propblem yet!
Sizing, yes keep the timbers the same size just make the windows bigger. doors are more of an issue with big frames and the action of a door slamming can introduce wobble/ movement, but unlikely to see it in a window. Bigger frames, your going to be relying on the glazing mostly for integrity of the openings
@@BradshawJoinery
Fantastic, thank you! With the power of the internet, I'm designing a house that will have large sliding sash windows, your advice and videos are brilliant to help guide me. Wasn't certain I could do it until I saw the full process laid out, Your local training agencies should offer you paid instructor time that suits you! Thanks very much.!!!!!
Top marks again for this. I had wondered though wouldnt it be easier, quicker and stronger to use a domino joiner instead of tenons? Also although its more expensive would you recommend using a close grained scots pine or douglas fir. I want to use a linseed paint as it seems a much more durable paint and it penetrates softwood far better than accoya.
Cheers Jake, you could use a domino on the joints, but not ideal over the 45 degree scribe, youd need the bigger domino machine. doesnt take too long to tenon and it gives a better joint than a domino. Ive never used linseed oil paint presonally but know some guys swear by it. Ive not had issue with Wb Opaque coatings on Accoya, they last bloomin ages. Pretty much any finish you used on accoya if done correctly lasts longer than on normal timber. I certainly wouldnt spec douglas fir or pine over accoya if you wanted durability and long life coating performance.
Do you have any videos where you explain the terminology you use? Like set back etc. Do you make joinery videos for joiners or are you trying to make educational videos?
HI, Yes most of my videos i try to explain the terminology, i explain setbacks almost every time i use one as its a easy thing to catch you out. If there is any your not sure of comment and i will explain.
They are educational/entertainment videos for Joiners/diyers respectively.
Setback is when marking out, you draw the position of the full size piece of timber on your stiles...then if the tenon on the piece your youve marked gets cut away by a groove or a rebate, then you need to use a setback on the mortice hole as the tenon has become narrower. If you dont use a setback then you end up with a gap in the joint the equivalent of the amount you have reduced the tenon witdh by(the groove or rebate depth) Are you a joiner or just learning?
@@BradshawJoinery just learning. Can you link to a video where you explain this? Cheers.
Hi Oliver, is there any reason for scribing the bevel on the stile down through the rails instead of scribing the rail bevel into the stile? I guess you can do it either way, but just wondered if there is any advantage one way or the other.
Do you mean do a flat shoulder on the rail and cut the rail profile into the stile moulding?
It could be done like that but would be difficult to get a tight joint and test fitting would possibly damage the joint. Also the scribe overnthe moulding on the rails add strength to the joint by stopping it twisting.
Traditionally also styles and rails run through the entire length, having a rail full width wouldn't look correct and also means water would run down style and hit a joint rather than just run off.
@@BradshawJoinery Yes, I can see how it adds strength. Also, if the outside was an ovlo instead of a mitre/putty, a scribe through is going to be easier. Thanks.
is that a axminster 3 head tenor ie made by sedgewick
He Sam it's a Sedgwick TESH tennoner. It's the model before the current colours. (Light blue and dark blue) I think they are white and dark blue now.
I keep thinking the opening of your intro music is Seether by Veruca Salt.
Haha i just had a listen and it is very similar! I had never heard of them!
Hi again, on 4.18 you say edges up with faces matching each other in pairs. It looks like you marked edges and put faces in top, sry can you confirm which is correct, I think I made the mistake you warned about :)
Hi Sean, always mark so the faces touch each other and the edges face up. The marks make a cross when the two pieces are put together. Hope that makes sense! The face side of the timber is the non rebated side and the mortice goes into the edge!
@@BradshawJoinery thanks again you're a superstar!
What's your opinion of drawbore method in mortice and tenon joints as opposed to wedges?
It's a good method for pulling joints tight, it doesn't work in all scenarios, a combination of the two is very strong but I wouldn't use draw boring in modern external joinery. End grain poking out to the elements isnt practical!
I'm absolutely sure I'm missing something here but at 1:16:36 wont the end of the rebate on the meeting rail clash with the parting bead since it's flush with the outside face of the stile?
Yes you are correct, you then cut the section away to fit between the parting beads so it is flush with the Stiles. I cannot do this until the windows are refurbished and j know that distance 👍
@@BradshawJoinery Makes perfect sense. I knew I was missing something simple 👍
Did you do a ‘focus you fack’ @ 1:02:44 😆😆, love it!
Yeah, AvE style 🤣🤣🤘
@@BradshawJoinery knew it 😏.
I assume that jobs all wrapped up now?
Did you end up having to do anything to the frames btw. I happen to be doing a few atm, seems Victorian chippys didn’t know what a box or a wagtail was 😂
Not yet, they are for my parents house and the sashes are still sat in my spray booth!! Hopefully get to it late this summer
@@BradshawJoinery I can relate🤣
Gday made, I did a little clip of how I do the meeting rails, saves a lot of flaffing around, makes it two step, and is easily customisable for stock thickness and tenon thickness.
I set it up off a rail tenon, which gives you tenon placement and exact thickness for stock ( dial up or down groover). Then all you have to do is cut the shoulder on RAS
( like I mentioned before the only way to F up is if you mortise top sash meet rail off the face side, it needs to be from outside ( normally rebate side) because of the way you have to put that meeting rail through spindle.
It’s quick, easy and deadly accurate 👍🏻
It’s on ‘my channel’ 😂👍🏻
Take care mate 👍🏻
Hi mate, thanks for that! I see and understand the method there, nice one easier than 3 cuts on the bandsaw 👍
You wouldn't even need a tenoning setup for the spindle to use it if you had a false or aigner style fence and back the cut with a square board thick enough to be cut into!
It's something else to have a video reply so thanks for that and for the well wishes at Christmas! Sorry I've not seen it until now!
All the best!
Olly
Sander looks brilliant, I need a bigger workshop! 🤣🤣
@@BradshawJoinery yours would be HEAPS bigger than mine! 120 m2 and shit everywhere 😂
I think the camera makes it look bigger as anyone that has seen in person Vs what they were expecting has said the workshop looks smaller!
My main shop is 10m X 10m then I have 10m X 4m spray booth building plus barn for storage and the container. I'd need a fair size shop to bring it all together.
@@BradshawJoinery yeah, I’m gradually improving my gear 😂. Got a format 4 spindle ‘Promised’ to me.
Life will change then ( digital height and fence?!?!! No ‘bump and go’ 🙄)
Trying gradually to make everything easier and higher quality, placing an order with whitehill for some heads and cutters 👍🏻
You have done beautiful work here, but unfortunately I think you took a step backwards here on the finished project. You went from old growth wood to plantation grown wood which will rot much quicker, and from single glazed glass to double glazed which will fail much sooner. Not to mention the thickness changes will have a small affect on curb appeal and shadow lines. In my humble opinion you would have been better served and spent less money had you simply stripped these down to bare wood, and restored them with putty glazing and then installed some high quality weather stripping. Interesting watch though, thanks for sharing!
HI Christopher, thankyou, just to help understand the situation, there is a very slight timber sight line increase ont he meeting rail, but a few mm, the res is the same as original. the wood used for the sashes is Accoya and superior to old growth redwood in almost every way. Its well worth investing some time learning about Accoya if you are interested in it! The 14mm double glazing is almost invisible at the edges, and the draught strips are also not seen when the windows are closed. Ill finish this video series soon and all will be revealed. Thankyou for watching and hope that clears some things up. :)
@@BradshawJoinery accoya I see. I was judging it based on the minimal growth rings. I’ve heard good things about accoya yes. The old growth wood there on the originals seemed to be in solid shape no? Except for that one sill that was really bad. If not for the addition of the new glass, would you have still switched. I’m into restoring old windows and keeping them going for another 100 years. You are a much better carpenter than me and I certainly meant no insult, just have never seen someone go through this process. I am looking forward to the end result though, thanks!
💪💪👍🙏🙏
Thankyou