Honda rancher 420 stator testing and replacement
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- Опубликовано: 30 ноя 2024
- 2013 honda rancher 420 bad stator replacment. Just hope it helps somone.
A couple things to be aware of that I missed in the video. On the case one of the dowels has an o ring on it. This is a oil line. Make sure you replace that o ring and don't get any silicone in the oil port.
The other thing to watch for. On the gear selection shaft (the one with the roll pin stuck sideways in it) make sure you turn that to the neutral position. It had a N in the cast iron and a N on the plastic connected to the sensor. The sensor I am talking about is the internal sensor for the gear range. Not the angle sensor. The angle sensor is on the bottom back side, on the outside of the case. The sensor I am talking about is on the inside. Once you have that shaft with the role pin in it lined up to neutral, you need to put the transmission in neutral unless you had it in neutral to begin with. If you didn't, there is a 10mm shaft that comes out of the front of the engine. Turn it counter clockwise a little bit then let go. Just like you would on an manual transmission foot lever. Pull let go pull let go until it is firm. The drive shaft should be loose and you should be in neutral and be lined up for your sensor to go into the slot. Hope this helps. If you need help or if it didn't male sense leave a comment and I'll do my best to get back to you asap.
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](/img/tr.png)
Excellent info right at the very beginning. Great video
I’m having trouble with the drive shafts. They’re rusty but I just think I’m missing something. Is the coupler just supposed to slide off? Which one do I remove first?
Yes it should slide off. If it's really rusty you may need to pull the bolts off the diff. and slide it back to give yourself more room.
I know this is an old video, but when you replaced the stator and checked the voltage it was high, which means you have a bad voltage regulator. You shouldn't be going past 14.5 volts. If you revved the engine it would probably go over 15, maybe even higher. Going past 14.5 will definitely fry all sorts of stuff.
Excellent my friend congratulations. Ask me a question and the first time you change your Honda stator, have you ever had a problem with DCT?
Glad it helped. The only real issue I have had with our honda transmissions is the gear range sensor and the electric shifting motor. The shifting motor once removed can be cleaned and used for a while before you have issues again. They get really dirty from wear especially from running in auto for long periods of time. The more the motor shifts up and down the more wear your going to have. Best to keep it in manual and in 3rd gear if your doing a lot of start and stop or slowing down and speeding up.
@@mrfarmer1903 I understand, I have a honda dct, I'm worried that it can be very problematic.
Honestly I think it will work fine for you. We are using them on a farm. We have 6 of them and run them every day. In the spring they pull trailers around to pick rock out of the feild. They pull up to 500 lbs of rock and have done well. We push them hard, harder than what they should be pushed for sure. We haven't lost a engine or a transmission...yet.
@@mrfarmer1903 they are very durable then. My HONDA and almost new and only use for recreation I take good care of him. I'm just going to have to replace the rectifier that has problems.
I really appreciate your response. I have one last question, what is the current that a stator in good condition should generate? Is it okay that in minimum acceleration only 15V in alternating current?
Yes at idle is should me a min of 15 voltage and go up from there. I forget what the top voltage is but should be in the higher 60s I believe. Let me know what you find. I'll tell you what there is always problems with equipment. Thats just the nature of the beast.
@@mrfarmer1903 thank you very much for your help. I will keep you posted on what happens, greetings from Costa Rica.
Hey I just changed my stator and now I’m having an issue with the starter gear that goes on the casing. When I go back to bolt the casing again that gear gets stiff and doesn’t want to turn anymore. Did I miss something? How many washers are supposed to go on that gear, I have one on the back side towards the motor. I really appreciate it, thanks!
Did you get the gear in the right way? Does the casing seem to bind up when you tighten up?
I have the same exact issue what did you find please
Well….I learned that I have nothing close to the mechanical competence to complete this mission. Lol!! Interesting video though
Would a bad stator prevent spark even if the battery is good ?
Yes it is a possibility. The one on the video did not lose spark, it would run until battery had lost charge.
I put my case back on and my neutral nor reverse light comes on and I have to jump the solenoid to start it what does that mean
Did you get your neutral switch plugged back in and in the right position? Is the reverse cable link in the right position?
@@mrfarmer1903 probably not Thankyou man
@@mrfarmer1903 do you have an idea on how they should be positioned
@@Ekey088
It should be pretty easy to see where it lines up. It has a T end that will fit in the slotted groove. It should line up pretty easy, I've never had an issue. Good luck.
I have battery charging problems, the stator of my fourtrax generates 15 to 70v in alternating current, so I changed the regulator but it continues to generate below 12V, it helps
I would check a couple of things. Think simple first. All of your connectors clean and tight. Are the battery cables tight and clean? Is your battery holding a good charge? Do you have any parasitic leaks or battery draws. If those all match up and look good, then I would start looking back at the regulator rectifier and the stator again.
Missed a motor mounting bolt at the top of the engine
So it should be 0 ohms from each wire to ground or 0 continuity from each to ground? Confused me a little bit but I may just be frustrated with this four wheeler 😂
Ya, I confuse myself just as much, lol. So you will be testing the yellow wires. Ohm test each yellow wire to yellow wire, and you should have a small amount of ohms .1-1.0. Then you will test each yellow wire to the ground, and there should be no ohms or no continuity. Hopefully, that clears it up for ya. Hope ya the best.
@@mrfarmer1903 Ok thank you. Having a lot of trouble with my 420 randomly lost spark one day after blowing the ignition fuse twice. Replaced ignition coil, regulator rectifier, spark plug and plug wire and yet to find the issue.
@turdieburdie2971
Is the bike blowing a fuse every time you try to start it? Is it intermittent loss of spark?
@@mrfarmer1903 No when it lost spark it blew the ignition fuse and killed the bike so I put another fuse in it and tried to start it and it didnt start but blew the ignition fuse again. Also no, it has no spark ever.
@turdieburdie2971
So, just to clarify, every time you crank it with a new fuse, the fuse pops? When you turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pump cycle?
Were can I get a code sheet for 2008 Honda rancher trx 420 te
What code are you looking for? Here is a list for ya
‐----------‐------------------------
*8-1 TP sensor low voltage, less than 22 volts
*8-2 TP sensor high, voltage above 4.93
*11-1 VS sensor no signal
*21-1 shift angle sensor low voltage less than .37 volts
*21-2 angle shift sensor voltage high above 4.62
*22-1 angle shift sensor, shift motor lock
*22-2 angle shift sensor, shift motor stuck
*23-1 angle shift sensor voltage erratic, variation
*24-1 shift control motor drive curcit
*32-1 fail safe relay circuit
*33-2 eeprom malfunction
*41-1 gear position switch malfunction
*41-2 gear position switch circuit
*42-1 gear shift up and down switch circuit
Hope that helps, be safe out there
Thank you for sending me the codes.This is my first time diagnosing a shifting problem on a att,maybe you can advise me on what to do. The atv was working ok and outta no where is not shifting in any of the gears,you can see the numbers of the gears you shifting into in the cluster can hear the shifting motor making nose when you shift but the atv is not moving you can push it and it will roll.Once or twice we pushed it and put it in the first gear by pressing the shift button and it did engage and after that it won’t do it anymore.Any advice will help.Thank you again Nick
Ya they can be frustrating when you have not worked on them a lot. So a few things, did I start shift irratic on its own? Like if you had in in manual and shifted to 3rd gear, would it shift on its own up to 5 or down to one? If it did somthing like that then it's probably a angle sensor. I have only replaced a couple of those and they can cause some weird issues.
In my personal opinion you have a sticky shift motor. What you will need to do is pull that electric motor off the bike. It's not hard and it looks like a starter motor on the front of the engine next to the front drive line. It's either 2 or 3 bolts size ten I belive. One of the bolts has a wire harness clip on it. Once you have the motor off there are 2 or 3 screws (I belive Alan heads) that will open up the motor. Use some electronic cleaner....kind of line brake cleaner but made for electric motors and Wires. Clean all the brush dust off and inside the motor. There is a oring that fits into the engine side of the motor be careful not to cut it and a seal on the inside that won't let water/dust into the motor, make sure they go back on.
Check the brushes on the front of the motor, where the shaft comes out. If they look like in decent shape you will be good to go by just cleaning them up. If not get new ones or order a new shift motor depending on what your time messing with it is worth. Now for the easiest way to put the motor back together is to put the brush end on first, being careful the brushes are going around the shaft straight and not getting pinched. Once in hold that shaft tight with your fingers and slide it into the housing of the motor. If you don't have a good grip on that shaft the magnets will rip the shaft out of your fingers and you will have to put the brushes back in the front housing again. Don't forget your seal/flat gasket or you will have to pull it apart anyway....I always hate that. Then it's just bolting it up and putting it back together. You should be bale to get a few thousand more miles out of that motor if it's not ran in auto all the time. We hit around 10,000 miles before we get bad shift motors here on the farm, the four wheelers are always in Mudd and pulling trailers with rock. Once again hope that helps, sorry for the novel and if you have any questions I'll get to them when I can. Good luck buddy
Never shifted irratic or by it self.I will do what you told me to do and I will let you know the outcome in couple of days,again thank you for your help
Hello I did remove the shifting motor inspected and clean the gears also clean and inspected motor brushes they are all ok problem still the same .How do you test the shift sensor if it’s out of the atv.
What issues did your four wheeler have to make you change the stator?
The four wheeler would run for about 40 minutes then die. The battery would be below 9 volts. We charged the battery and then ran it with a multimeter on the battery. The voltage slowly dropped from 12.6 to below 10. We knew then that some part from the charging system had failed. It ended up being the stator.
Do you happen to have that exact seat for sale on eBay ?
Sorry buddy I don't. Hope you find one!
MMMMM haha that looks like a job!
The only thing you left ot is what you had for lunch