Thanks for the video. Here was my process. 2012 F350, HVAC was stuck on vent. It took me 3.5 hrs including tool cleanup. I repaired it installing ford part # BC3Z 19E616 F. Multiplex mode actuator. I see aftermarket part options but the Ford part is $73.58 list so not worth trying to save anything since it's difficult to replace. - pull panel off below column, it clips in. - move pedals back if adjustable, allows access to gas pedal bolts. - 10mm unbolt gas pedal, bungee cord it to the left. Left it plugged in. - 7mm screw, remove trim from vertical brace to right of gas pedal. - 8mm (3) bolts remove vertical brace. - Ratchet strap from lower door hinge to vertical brace, pull/ bend the brace to the left 2 to 3". Jack of all used prybar but cant get there with center console. - see 1" vent hose covering access to top rear screw, push dart holding hose through bracket to move hose away from hole. - In 1/4" use T20 bit, 1-1/2" extension, then swivel, then 10" extension to get top rear screw through access hole, then short extension & bit to remove other 3. 1/4 electric ratchet worked good. Magnet to get screws out. - Use a hook pick (Ullman) to release the electrical connector tab, pull on the hook to push on the tab. Tab is on back side of connector. - Pull actuator straight off heater box then release cable. - Install new part, install cable first. Put the cable eye on first then rotate the actuator to get the cable into position. With finesse I was able to not break anything. Watch the black lineup pin that goes into the eye on the actuator. I missed that and wasted 1/2 hr wondering why it wouldn't line up, couldn't see. Get flapper knobs into grooves top & bottom. Use tape on bit to hold screws. - I used a porto power ram against base of A-pillar to push the vertical brace back into position. I couldn't bend it back by hand. - The rest of the assembly is obvious.
Hugely helpful! Only notes I'd add - watch the locator pin. If you're looking at the piece in install location from the drivers side there is a plastic pin that sits just below top right screw location - that pins needs to go in the associated hole. I fought alignment - two left holes in and secured only to be way off on the top right until realizing the locator pin was out of the hole. Get that lined up and all was well. With the KR center console I had more luck with a pry bar carefully positioned against the firewall than a ratchet strap. I used a ball peen hammer to drive that bracket back back in to place
Read This After Watching!!!! 1. Bend the metal bracket AS FAR back as it can go 2. Use a headlamp flashlight 3.use electrical tape and tape screw to end of bit when reinstalling. 4. When cable is off, spray silicone lubricant in cable line and work it until it's extremely loose. (This will protect new actuator from burning out prematurely) 5.After installation you may need to pull fuse 46...turn key on and move heat dial back and forth....then turn off key reinstall fuse. When key is turned back on HVAC will recalibrate actuators.Final Note....invest in an inspection camera. Thank you Jack of All ....you're a life saver.
Thanks for that advice. Gonna give it a try tomorrow. I installed a new motor but it doesn’t seem to be calibrated. It’s stuck on the floor vent position and will rarely move from that position.
Four years later and this video saved my butt! Thanks Guy! In the end, a small 5" pencil fell down my defrost and jammed up the floor vent causing the actuator to jump track and seize up. The part about bending the dash bracket to wiggle out the assembly was key.
This helped a ton, thank you! Just got done replacing mine. Took me a cut down 36" crowbar (necessary sacrifice), some patience, a few bits of red electrical tape (for keeping bolts connected to the bit) and a couple hours to get it sorted out.
Sweet video!! Of course your going to have some say “you didn’t show us how you got back in” All I can say is you saved me a ton of time and headache!!! Thank you!!
This is a amazing video. I have the same truck just XL model and 2wd. I replaced the blower motor and actuator and Boom everything is back working 100%.
Great video. Only thing different I did was take the gas pedal out too, it was easy to slide out with the pedal out, only 3 bolts and a connector it’s worth moving
I appreciate the guide. it helps a lot. i have '11 f250 lariat with dual climate control, i noticed my vent actuator stopped working which didnt bother me and now my passenger side only blows hot air with AC on for about 3 min then starts blowing cold air so im guessing thats a different component and that bothers me a lot since its summer so time to start digging into the dash. 9 year old truck and its the only problem its had so im happy lol
Well I finally did it...and you are right- it is a MF'r. I found no matter what I used or how I did it, that post would only move about a 1/2". Enough to get the old one out going toward the firewall but couldn't get the new one back in. Found that it did have some flex though so I rigged an "eye" bracket to it and used a ratchet strap anchored to the lower door hinge and flexed it another 3/4" or so. That and removing the throttle peddle gave me well enough room to get it back in. Biggest headaches beside that...and those left screws was that defrost damper lever's pin to align with the slide. Can't see it. Used my bore scope...a lot...lol Good luck to anyone else doing this. I actually went a head and removed all the center basal and lower plastics just so I could see a little better. Not sure it really helped that much.
I tried it your way, spent about two hours and still couldn't get the damn thing out. I went to remove the dash and had it out in about an hour and a half. I then found the mode actuator fairly easy to remove however the white cable where it goes into the bottom of the HVAC was seized so I am in the process of removing the HVAC from the truck so I can disassemble. In your video your about 1/3 of the way removing the dash anyway I would think its easier to remove it. BTW I'm working on a 2013 F250 XL
Very helpful video. Do you mind providing a little clarification? There seems to be a two mechanisms at play here... (1) one control determines whether you get hot or cold air out of the vents and (2) another mechanism that determines which vent the air is directed to. If my problematic symptom is hot air coming out of the vents when the AC is to cold it seems I am having problem with the temp door actuator. Is the temp door actuator included in the assembly you remove? Thx in advance.
i am not getting a error code, but truck won't go into defrost - just stays on floor and vents... Is this the same for a lariat with the auto setting and driver and passenger zone control? Thanks
So I’m running into the problem of heat on the passanger side and little to no heat on the driver side and it says on my scanner driver side blend door actuator does that actuator manage heat? Not trying to throw parts at the truck. Thanks
Does the blend door affect the temperature? In my 2011 the ac blows cold on both sides but the heat only gets warm (not hot) on the passenger side. Could that be the blend door?
Not the same as thing situation. This is th vent control, as in vents, floor, defrost. The blend door could cause the problem you are talking about, but it is a different fix that involves removing the dash.
Hi. Question regarding the Mode Door Actuator. 2012 Ford Fusion SE. I ordered Motorcraft Part Ford AE5Z-19C772-A - LEVER - CONTROL. Replaced to fix inoperative vent control. I installed from brake pedal location after removing brake pedal assembly. The clam shell gear assembly that came attached to the mode door actuator was difficult to line up when bolted to heater air box. I did not have confidence that I lined up the 3 or 4 door flap pins that line up with clam shell/mode door actuator motor. What is procedure to ensure all air box door pins are aligned to clam shell/actuator motor assembly when installing??! Help! After installing, I only get air through vent. Not defrost or floor air.
At 5 :56 , can that white cam be moved manually with your hand to make the defrost work in a pinch without disassembling anything ? Was there anything connected to it ,or is the cable that moves it inside the heater enclosure
Would you know if this will help my problem My ac is stuck on cold both sides driver and passenger even when I move my temperature to 70°F it feels like I have it on low
@@JackofAllMasterofNone I've put a whole new ac system already from compressor expansion valve new oil new freon new temperature sensor that connect to the evaporator new evaporator new heatercore new fuses new belt and ambient temperature sensor and the pressure switch aswell
Shit, my 2011 F250 stopped opening the duct to defroster... and I don’t have an extra $1k for this job. I know if I attempt this with my 2x fused spine it’ll stay in pieces. Lol. Oh well my 1969 VW def was a diaper cloth I’m sure that motor won’t go out. Thank you for the info !
Do you have any knowledge/experience with also replacing the other actuator that controls the temperature blend, without removing the entire dash? Thank you for this video, I have had the Ford part in my garage (in the box) for over a year as I didn't want to remove the whole dash. Now I will replace it.
I have a 50 year old Toyota that never needs repairs, I can't tell you how many times my 10 year old F250 has let me down. We are going in the wrong direction.
What was the problem that led you to believe that you needed to replace the flapper motor? My ac/heat sounds like it’s blowing hard but is pushing very lightly through all the vents. I already cut into the condenser box to clean it, thinking it was clogged up, but that was not the problem. If you could give your two cents, I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
Most dashes are pain in the but. Buy this one is probably one of the easiest dashes to get out. 7 easy bolts, steering shaft bolt and shift cable and dash is out
Awesome video and well done sir. My 2011 f250 6.7L has something similar, my ac isn't cold 90% of the time and some times I'll hear the actuator make a gear ripping noise and my ac will get nice and cold. Did your a.c. act up as in getting a little warm and then back to cold again, back and forth? Again thank you for the video and take care bud.
@@bmvtr I believe it's my blend door actuator. I haven't played with it anymore because I retired the truck and bought me a little car to go back and forth to work. I will say this, my truck sits and it doesn't move and I think all those months of sitting in the heat has done something to those plastic actuators because now when I do drive it I don't hear the gear skipping noise coming from under my dash like it use to and I think the heat in that cab from sitting up this past summer has done something to those plastic actuators because the air blows cold all of the time now and I don't hear that plastic gear grinding noise anymore. Maybe the heat in the cab has melted them to be stuck were the blend door is stuck closed on the cold side. I'm willing to bet when I do decide to tear into it I'm going to find a problem with one of the blend door actuators. When I do this and find the problem I'll be sure to let you know. I'm almost one hundred percent sure it's one of those cheap plastic actuators. Piece of advice that the idiots at the ac shop didn't give me when i paid them to change out my evaporator coil under my dash because that's common on these trucks to leak but while they have the dash taken out you should go ahead and change out the blend door and the actuators while they're in there because when they changed that evap out on mine I was still having cold air and then hot air coming out and I had to figure out what it is because they couldn't figure it out and they wanted to charge me another $1800.00 to pull the dash out again and change them out. I wanted to kill those goons. Anyway, if you ever remove your dash for anything replace those actuators with new ones even if you're not having problems because they WILL GO out. Anyway sorry so long buddy, I just don't want anybody to go through what I went through.
my works but i changed the blower cause it was making a noise and I notice my compressor kick on then off then on then off I washed out the evaporator but it look clean also my my radio is on but no sound any thoughts
Did you have to have yours programmed by the dealer?. Because I just finished installing mine and it's doing the same thing as yours. I am not mad just curious. Because the dealer is saying it needs to be programmed
Does not need reprogrammed. Its just a dumb servo motor. There are no microcircuits inside. Dealer doesnt know what they are talking about. When you turn the key it runs through a range of motion process. Are you sure you dont have a physical obstruction. Dirt or debris can block the vents from opening. Also, you can use a scan tool to check for HVAC related codes and clear them if necessary, but it should still work regardless
@@JackofAllMasterofNone Yes it did do it's range of motion. But I did find a tsb for this exact problem and a bind door issue. So my boss said it's going to the dealer for the tsb and new hvac box. I agree on two of those screws were a pain to get to and reinstalling it wasnt to bad. But when I pushed the button everything worked on the motor. Your video was the best I even got the part number that helped thank you
Glad I found this video. So the vehicle did go to the dealership. Because it needed to have the dash taken apart. The dealership found pens and wrappers, etc inside the vents. They fixed one more door and it works great. Thank u again
My 2010 actuator works but switches back to the vents after a few seconds. I can see the actuator move into the different positions but it won’t hold them in said position. It will for about 30 seconds then reverts back to the vents. Any suggestions?
4:07 anybody know where the other end of the cable attaches? My cable is seized up, i have a feeling i need to pull the entire climate control box out.
@nutsandboltsbeekeeping6413 I took the dash off, hoping there was an access panel, and as you know, nothing. I replaced the motor without attaching new cable, so I now have two cables not connected properly. It's a plow truck and now have defrost, so I'll tackle the cable next year when I have time. Please let me know if you run into one of the engineers, I would like to "talk" to him. Lol
Great video..Thanks.. In your description you mention about another separate actuator that controls the outdoor air and the indoor air..Where is this actuator located?
@@JackofAllMasterofNone I am having a same issue. Hopefully it also corrects the heat blowing out hotter on the right side then the driver side. But right now it only blows out of the vents and to the floor. No defrost
Looking at your video, then looking at my truck, you seem to be missing the extra piece for the floor vent, that would in my case make this SOOO much easier. I was able to remove the 4 screws but cant get the motor out. See my video at (ruclips.net/video/InWRnEyKS4A/видео.html ) see how that black piece flexes, but wont come off? I am wondering if somehow I could take it off? I also have the center console (Lariat Ultimate), but dont see that as getting in the way in this scenario.
Looks like the floor heater vent. Funny that yours is in the way when mine wasnt but I believe it is just snapped in and if you pulled hard enough it may just come off?
Great video, I have the same problem, and ford vehicles suck. I have a Toyota and nothing ever goes wrong with it, but my ford has 1 problem after another. This job looks like it sucks!
Thanks for the video. Here was my process. 2012 F350, HVAC was stuck on vent. It took me 3.5 hrs including tool cleanup. I repaired it installing ford part # BC3Z 19E616 F. Multiplex mode actuator. I see aftermarket part options but the Ford part is $73.58 list so not worth trying to save anything since it's difficult to replace.
- pull panel off below column, it clips in.
- move pedals back if adjustable, allows access to gas pedal bolts.
- 10mm unbolt gas pedal, bungee cord it to the left. Left it plugged in.
- 7mm screw, remove trim from vertical brace to right of gas pedal.
- 8mm (3) bolts remove vertical brace.
- Ratchet strap from lower door hinge to vertical brace, pull/ bend the brace to the left 2 to 3". Jack of all used prybar but cant get there with center console.
- see 1" vent hose covering access to top rear screw, push dart holding hose through bracket to move hose away from hole.
- In 1/4" use T20 bit, 1-1/2" extension, then swivel, then 10" extension to get top rear screw through access hole, then short extension & bit to remove other 3. 1/4 electric ratchet worked good. Magnet to get screws out.
- Use a hook pick (Ullman) to release the electrical connector tab, pull on the hook to push on the tab. Tab is on back side of connector.
- Pull actuator straight off heater box then release cable.
- Install new part, install cable first. Put the cable eye on first then rotate the actuator to get the cable into position. With finesse I was able to not break anything. Watch the black lineup pin that goes into the eye on the actuator. I missed that and wasted 1/2 hr wondering why it wouldn't line up, couldn't see. Get flapper knobs into grooves top & bottom. Use tape on bit to hold screws.
- I used a porto power ram against base of A-pillar to push the vertical brace back into position. I couldn't bend it back by hand.
- The rest of the assembly is obvious.
Hugely helpful!
Only notes I'd add - watch the locator pin.
If you're looking at the piece in install location from the drivers side there is a plastic pin that sits just below top right screw location - that pins needs to go in the associated hole. I fought alignment - two left holes in and secured only to be way off on the top right until realizing the locator pin was out of the hole. Get that lined up and all was well.
With the KR center console I had more luck with a pry bar carefully positioned against the firewall than a ratchet strap. I used a ball peen hammer to drive that bracket back back in to place
Read This After Watching!!!! 1. Bend the metal bracket AS FAR back as it can go 2. Use a headlamp flashlight 3.use electrical tape and tape screw to end of bit when reinstalling. 4. When cable is off, spray silicone lubricant in cable line and work it until it's extremely loose. (This will protect new actuator from burning out prematurely) 5.After installation you may need to pull fuse 46...turn key on and move heat dial back and forth....then turn off key reinstall fuse. When key is turned back on HVAC will recalibrate actuators.Final Note....invest in an inspection camera. Thank you Jack of All ....you're a life saver.
Good advice. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for that advice. Gonna give it a try tomorrow. I installed a new motor but it doesn’t seem to be calibrated. It’s stuck on the floor vent position and will rarely move from that position.
Four years later and this video saved my butt! Thanks Guy! In the end, a small 5" pencil fell down my defrost and jammed up the floor vent causing the actuator to jump track and seize up. The part about bending the dash bracket to wiggle out the assembly was key.
Awesome
This helped a ton, thank you! Just got done replacing mine. Took me a cut down 36" crowbar (necessary sacrifice), some patience, a few bits of red electrical tape (for keeping bolts connected to the bit) and a couple hours to get it sorted out.
Nice work!
Bro thank you so so so much... I was already planning on removing the whole dash ... thanks to ur video I can save money and a headache
Sweet video!! Of course your going to have some say “you didn’t show us how you got back in” All I can say is you saved me a ton of time and headache!!! Thank you!!
Thanks for the comment
My 2011 F350 6.7 has the same issue, just vent heat.. I need defrost and floor, that's it.. Thanks for uploading this video!!
Sean Thompson same issue on my 2011 ever figure it out? Was this the fix i just don’t like replacing parts without knowing that it is it
@@charlesnostrand3620 Yep, that was it, works awesome now!!
This is a amazing video. I have the same truck just XL model and 2wd. I replaced the blower motor and actuator and Boom everything is back working 100%.
thank you for the time to post this video. I have done this at the dealer under warranty.
Great video. Only thing different I did was take the gas pedal out too, it was easy to slide out with the pedal out, only 3 bolts and a connector it’s worth moving
Thanks for this! My 2011 F-250 will not open the defroster vents. December 30 in Wisconsin. Perfect timing.
The good thing is you can probably reach down there and manually push it open to get you through the winter.
I tried... I can get anything to move. I will check with a camera for an obstruction.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone
Obstructions are the number 1 reason this goes bad so probably will find something
I appreciate the guide. it helps a lot. i have '11 f250 lariat with dual climate control, i noticed my vent actuator stopped working which didnt bother me and now my passenger side only blows hot air with AC on for about 3 min then starts blowing cold air so im guessing thats a different component and that bothers me a lot since its summer so time to start digging into the dash. 9 year old truck and its the only problem its had so im happy lol
Yes. Unfortunately to fix that you must remove the dash as far as I know. It's a temp blend door issue
Thanks for the great video it is much appreciated...
This is awesome thanks man for the information...
Great video, I believe it's the same for the 2009 F250 Diesel
I'm not sure honestly but it wouldn't surprise me if it was the same.
Awesome. Thank you for the video
Thanks for the video. I have a 2011 F350 with that exact same issue...not looking forward to doing it but..Oh well :)
It does suck pretty bad but it will make you feel a lot better when you go price it out at a mechanic first... lol
@@JackofAllMasterofNone: Yeah..that's true. Mine is stuck on the vents but everything else works..for the moment.
Well I finally did it...and you are right- it is a MF'r. I found no matter what I used or how I did it, that post would only move about a 1/2". Enough to get the old one out going toward the firewall but couldn't get the new one back in. Found that it did have some flex though so I rigged an "eye" bracket to it and used a ratchet strap anchored to the lower door hinge and flexed it another 3/4" or so. That and removing the throttle peddle gave me well enough room to get it back in. Biggest headaches beside that...and those left screws was that defrost damper lever's pin to align with the slide. Can't see it. Used my bore scope...a lot...lol Good luck to anyone else doing this. I actually went a head and removed all the center basal and lower plastics just so I could see a little better. Not sure it really helped that much.
I tried it your way, spent about two hours and still couldn't get the damn thing out. I went to remove the dash and had it out in about an hour and a half. I then found the mode actuator fairly easy to remove however the white cable where it goes into the bottom of the HVAC was seized so I am in the process of removing the HVAC from the truck so I can disassemble. In your video your about 1/3 of the way removing the dash anyway I would think its easier to remove it. BTW I'm working on a 2013 F250 XL
Maybe but this worked easily for me... And there was a lot more to remove the dash.
Very helpful video. Do you mind providing a little clarification? There seems to be a two mechanisms at play here... (1) one control determines whether you get hot or cold air out of the vents and (2) another mechanism that determines which vent the air is directed to. If my problematic symptom is hot air coming out of the vents when the AC is to cold it seems I am having problem with the temp door actuator. Is the temp door actuator included in the assembly you remove? Thx in advance.
It's not a part of this. It is a separate actuator.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone thank you for your response.
I need to check my actuator. When I use the floor only setting, some air still comes out of the front dash vents.
Good job, thanks
i am not getting a error code, but truck won't go into defrost - just stays on floor and vents... Is this the same for a lariat with the auto setting and driver and passenger zone control? Thanks
I gotta do this again, in my 2011. But I'm pretty sure I gotta replace that white cable. Have you seen any videos on doing that?
I haven't seen any videos on that part. I know it makes the project way worse. I.e. complete dashboard removal.
I can’t manage to get the electrical disconnected and that is my final step of the removal process. How exactly did you manage to yank it out
Its a pain. It pushed the tab with a pin and yanked on the wires (you arent supposed to) and luckily it came out.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone Did you remove the white cable fist? Does that make it easier?
So I’m running into the problem of heat on the passanger side and little to no heat on the driver side and it says on my scanner driver side blend door actuator does that actuator manage heat? Not trying to throw parts at the truck. Thanks
This is the vent position door not the hot / cold blend door. They are different
Now I need a video for a 2012 f150 need to replace the air duct plenum. Arm broke off.
Does the blend door affect the temperature? In my 2011 the ac blows cold on both sides but the heat only gets warm (not hot) on the passenger side. Could that be the blend door?
Not the same as thing situation. This is th vent control, as in vents, floor, defrost. The blend door could cause the problem you are talking about, but it is a different fix that involves removing the dash.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone why would I have to remove the whole other than changing the blend door if it causes the problem?
Can you tell me if this applies to a 2012 platinum 150. Air. Not coming from dash only the. Bottom
Thank you
What is radio do you have in your pick up?
My super duty only blows cold air on the driver’s side. Is the blending valve for that or is it a different one?
Different one.
Hi. Question regarding the Mode Door Actuator. 2012 Ford Fusion SE. I ordered Motorcraft Part Ford AE5Z-19C772-A - LEVER - CONTROL. Replaced to fix inoperative vent control. I installed from brake pedal location after removing brake pedal assembly. The clam shell gear assembly that came attached to the mode door actuator was difficult to line up when bolted to heater air box. I did not have confidence that I lined up the 3 or 4 door flap pins that line up with clam shell/mode door actuator motor.
What is procedure to ensure all air box door pins are aligned to clam shell/actuator motor assembly when installing??! Help! After installing, I only get air through vent. Not defrost or floor air.
I have no idea on that vehicle. This was on a F250, not a Focus. Very different
At 5 :56 , can that white cam be moved manually with your hand to make the defrost work in a pinch without disassembling anything ?
Was there anything connected to it ,or is the cable that moves it inside the heater enclosure
did you get a answer to this?
thanks
Would you know if this will help my problem
My ac is stuck on cold both sides driver and passenger even when I move my temperature to 70°F it feels like I have it on low
This is not your problem. There is a different blend door actuator for the temperature control.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone I've put a whole new ac system already from compressor expansion valve new oil new freon new temperature sensor that connect to the evaporator new evaporator new heatercore new fuses new belt and ambient temperature sensor and the pressure switch aswell
Shit, my 2011 F250 stopped opening the duct to defroster... and I don’t have an extra $1k for this job. I know if I attempt this with my 2x fused spine it’ll stay in pieces. Lol. Oh well my 1969 VW def was a diaper cloth I’m sure that motor won’t go out. Thank you for the info !
Yeah. You definitely have to be a contortionist to do this job. Lol
The idea why my after my truck sat for awhile volume doesn't work anymore something up with the fan actuator also
Did your ac compressor stop when it hade a code
10:09
❤
Not that I recall
Do you have any knowledge/experience with also replacing the other actuator that controls the temperature blend, without removing the entire dash? Thank you for this video, I have had the Ford part in my garage (in the box) for over a year as I didn't want to remove the whole dash. Now I will replace it.
Im sorry i do not have any experience with it
I have a 50 year old Toyota that never needs repairs, I can't tell you how many times my 10 year old F250 has let me down. We are going in the wrong direction.
So, you’re saying that they don’t make them like they used to?
What was the problem that led you to believe that you needed to replace the flapper motor? My ac/heat sounds like it’s blowing hard but is pushing very lightly through all the vents. I already cut into the condenser box to clean it, thinking it was clogged up, but that was not the problem. If you could give your two cents, I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
That's exactly what it was doing.
Dashboard comes out of this truck in 15 min. Super easy. Way easier than doing this
Glad you think so. I have heard mixed feelings about it. Most DIY folks are very intimidated by removing the whole dash.
Most dashes are pain in the but. Buy this one is probably one of the easiest dashes to get out. 7 easy bolts, steering shaft bolt and shift cable and dash is out
Awesome video and well done sir. My 2011 f250 6.7L has something similar, my ac isn't cold 90% of the time and some times I'll hear the actuator make a gear ripping noise and my ac will get nice and cold. Did your a.c. act up as in getting a little warm and then back to cold again, back and forth? Again thank you for the video and take care bud.
What ended up being your problem William?
@@bmvtr I believe it's my blend door actuator. I haven't played with it anymore because I retired the truck and bought me a little car to go back and forth to work. I will say this, my truck sits and it doesn't move and I think all those months of sitting in the heat has done something to those plastic actuators because now when I do drive it I don't hear the gear skipping noise coming from under my dash like it use to and I think the heat in that cab from sitting up this past summer has done something to those plastic actuators because the air blows cold all of the time now and I don't hear that plastic gear grinding noise anymore. Maybe the heat in the cab has melted them to be stuck were the blend door is stuck closed on the cold side. I'm willing to bet when I do decide to tear into it I'm going to find a problem with one of the blend door actuators. When I do this and find the problem I'll be sure to let you know. I'm almost one hundred percent sure it's one of those cheap plastic actuators. Piece of advice that the idiots at the ac shop didn't give me when i paid them to change out my evaporator coil under my dash because that's common on these trucks to leak but while they have the dash taken out you should go ahead and change out the blend door and the actuators while they're in there because when they changed that evap out on mine I was still having cold air and then hot air coming out and I had to figure out what it is because they couldn't figure it out and they wanted to charge me another $1800.00 to pull the dash out again and change them out. I wanted to kill those goons. Anyway, if you ever remove your dash for anything replace those actuators with new ones even if you're not having problems because they WILL GO out. Anyway sorry so long buddy, I just don't want anybody to go through what I went through.
Is there a way to open it to get AC just until I have time to change this?
This moves the vent position (like defrost, floor, dash, etc.) Not the blend door which controls temp
my works but i changed the blower cause it was making a noise and I notice my compressor kick on then off then on then off I washed out the evaporator but it look clean also my my radio is on but no sound any thoughts
Thats how it is on some cars... the compressor doesn't work non stop.
Did you have to have yours programmed by the dealer?. Because I just finished installing mine and it's doing the same thing as yours. I am not mad just curious. Because the dealer is saying it needs to be programmed
Does not need reprogrammed. Its just a dumb servo motor. There are no microcircuits inside. Dealer doesnt know what they are talking about. When you turn the key it runs through a range of motion process. Are you sure you dont have a physical obstruction. Dirt or debris can block the vents from opening. Also, you can use a scan tool to check for HVAC related codes and clear them if necessary, but it should still work regardless
@@JackofAllMasterofNone Yes it did do it's range of motion. But I did find a tsb for this exact problem and a bind door issue. So my boss said it's going to the dealer for the tsb and new hvac box. I agree on two of those screws were a pain to get to and reinstalling it wasnt to bad. But when I pushed the button everything worked on the motor. Your video was the best I even got the part number that helped thank you
Glad I found this video. So the vehicle did go to the dealership. Because it needed to have the dash taken apart. The dealership found pens and wrappers, etc inside the vents. They fixed one more door and it works great. Thank u again
My 2010 actuator works but switches back to the vents after a few seconds. I can see the actuator move into the different positions but it won’t hold them in said position. It will for about 30 seconds then reverts back to the vents. Any suggestions?
What sizes torx did you use?
4:07 anybody know where the other end of the cable attaches? My cable is seized up, i have a feeling i need to pull the entire climate control box out.
You can't get to the other end of the cable without pulling the box out. There is a bottom cover that is held on with about 6 screws.
@nutsandboltsbeekeeping6413 I took the dash off, hoping there was an access panel, and as you know, nothing. I replaced the motor without attaching new cable, so I now have two cables not connected properly. It's a plow truck and now have defrost, so I'll tackle the cable next year when I have time. Please let me know if you run into one of the engineers, I would like to "talk" to him. Lol
How to replace the white cable on the actuator from inside the fuckin box? Holy hell
Great video..Thanks.. In your description you mention about another separate actuator that controls the outdoor air and the indoor air..Where is this actuator located?
Farther to the passenger side. You have to remove the dashboard to change it unfortunately
I think is easier to remove half of your dash to one side . Those Fords have one of the easiest dash removals.
Possibly
Does it need to be timed or just plug and play
Plug and play
@@JackofAllMasterofNone I am having a same issue. Hopefully it also corrects the heat blowing out hotter on the right side then the driver side. But right now it only blows out of the vents and to the floor. No defrost
Have a hell of a time figuring out how you got the new part back in place
Its a real PITA job. That is for sure!!!!!
my 2011 f350 blows but not hard what was your doing
Blowing through vents, floor and defrost at the same time
must be a common problem. I have a 2011 F350 and took it to Ford. cost 1600 dollars Canadian
Looking at your video, then looking at my truck, you seem to be missing the extra piece for the floor vent, that would in my case make this SOOO much easier. I was able to remove the 4 screws but cant get the motor out. See my video at (ruclips.net/video/InWRnEyKS4A/видео.html ) see how that black piece flexes, but wont come off? I am wondering if somehow I could take it off? I also have the center console (Lariat Ultimate), but dont see that as getting in the way in this scenario.
Looks like the floor heater vent. Funny that yours is in the way when mine wasnt but I believe it is just snapped in and if you pulled hard enough it may just come off?
Great video, I have the same problem, and ford vehicles suck. I have a Toyota and nothing ever goes wrong with it, but my ford has 1 problem after another. This job looks like it sucks!
It does suck.... but its better than paying Ford 2 thousand dollars to do it.
Ford is such shit. Never had this happen on any other brands. Door lock freezing issues in winter, bad brake master cylinder.
Wish I could disagree with you.