Good call agent KAPT. I was dying to have that twisted around & deFunked into another position. From my angle of the dangle it's hard to be sure (duh). I really have to defer to the Man-on-Hand since my remote location there is a outstanding chance that I'm blowing smoke.
@@1marcelfilms Can you direct me to the part in any of Adrian's videos where he refers to himself as "a genius". If you could do that, that would great, genius.
Some things: If you straighten the antenna at the second joint then rotate it on the first joint it'll fit fine - operator error! The CRT database said '9" or below', and unless I am very much mistaken 5 is below 9? As for the 12V AC adapter, it doesn't mean an adapter that outputs 12V AC, it means an adapter that is powered from AC and outputs 12V.
I recognize this set, because I own one. The glue holding the neck board on was conductive. A friend had a radioshack set that ended up being the same internally, and sure enough had the same fault
Oh dear - so yeah that glue really does become destructive. I wonder how many TVs will be destroyed by this blasted glue silently eating away at things?
I’m confused by the terminology here. Is this conductive as in electricly, causing shorts? I was thinking the term he meant was caustic, which causes corrosion.
@@bobbykozak6032 From what I understand, it has to do with water absorption. As the glue absorbs humidity over time, it becomes both corrosive, because of the humidity, and also conductive.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 I see they used the same glue to hold the yoke wedges in place. Eventually it can eat away through the windings of the yoke... not a pretty thing
The 3.5mm jacks on these portable sets was largely because they have switches in them that disconnect the antenna. One of the diy TV kits I bought from china does have a normal antenna jack and it radiates the input signal from the antenna since the antenna and input jack are just paralleled
The unregulated black level problem you are having relates to what called the 'DC restoration' or 'Black-level clamp' circuitry which is built into the NTSC color decoder IC. To function, the color decoder IC usually requires a series capacitor between the video input pin and the source video signal. The problem you appear to have happens when the series capacitor between the NTSC line and the color decoder chip happens to be internally leaking DC, or the PCB has some slightly conductive material between that capacitor's 2 legs. This part of the circuit is very sensitive and any old electrolytic cap or PCB contamination around this part will throw off the brightness and contrast controls and picture level will be affected by the video content. Also, a blown color decoder IC can also cause problems as well as bad voltage regulator feedback circuitry for the HV flyback circuit.
An interesting thing about tvs with on screen tunning bar indicator is that you can identify an extra rgb channel, so you can easily add an rgb input for those monitors using the bar inputs and disabling the tuner, and an extra advantage is that you can retain any extra av input without any modification. It also works with small lcd tvs
That’s a good tip, I was thinking how one of these I have without video ins might be modded to be used with an 80s computer wihtout having to use an RF modulator.
Yes, but like the google version, it's not as intuitive as it should be, and having to click three times to get a pdf to the correct orientation is so primitive.
CRT Database is correct. It says “9 inch *and below*” it is not calling this a 9 inch set. And it’s true, many many 9 inch and smaller non Trinitron type tubes have that screen door effect as they’re just intended to be cheap portable or shop/kitchen TVs, not for critical viewing. Haven’t watched the whole video yet so I assume you discover this later, but CH CALL is simply a status button that displays the channel bar in its current location to know what channel you’re on. Every “bar tuning” type TV has this button for the most part.
I kinda think that as long as there's no remote control involved, then a combination on/off volume switch is an elegant solution that has regrettably come to be associated with cheap devices. It takes fractions of a second longer to use but has a few (admittedly small) advantages in cost savings, decluttering the UI and avoiding the problem of occasionally being blared in the face when the last used volume level is currently inappropriate
For tuning Rec.709/NTSC color, those three black-level calibration lines are, in order, below black, black, and slightly above. The second line should be invisible, barely showing the third line. This intuitively shows as "a little too much contrast," but that will make the background of your grid pattern look correct.
Adrian persistently adjusts them so all 3 are visible, aka slightly over-corrected in actuality, on basically every set he shows. It's like, one of the only persistent mistakes I've noticed over the years. (Edit: welp never mind, at 39:24 he's correctly called the bars as they are! Hooray!) The other one is adjusting the classic B&W Macs' screens into a 4:3 aspect, aka getting the black border even on all sides, which results in the "square" onscreen buttons rendering as taller squarish rectangles.
Fun fact - until recently GE owned the patent on the phosphors used in CRT monitors and light bulbs. They were produced in a chemical plant in Cleveland Ohio.
Adrian, you can remove the mastic (the bad glue) using some eucalyptus oil... that will soften it to be able to remove it. You can additionally use some light heat, but it's a lot easier with the oil.
I think the rotation warning has to do with the under-cabinet mount that would have been included with the set - the Spacemaker series was all about appliances that didn’t take up room on your counter top, and the mount probably couldn’t rotate more than 45 degrees in each direction.
it's possible that the ceramic pcb inside the flyback transformer has a cracked solder joint and applying pressure did a temporary fix since it is hollow under that plastic cover for the flyback potentiometers.
I got my hands on one of these a few months ago! Nice little composite test unit. One pin on the neck connector was arcing pretty bad, and it went away when I turned the focus down. I wound up cleaning and squeezing the connector and putting some silicone grease on it and I can now bring the focus to where it needs to be. Works great now!
This might have the same Samsung model picture tube as the one in VWestlife's color Watchman. The CRT database has been growing a lot lately and it's very good to see.
That screen door effect is exactly why I moved to an LCD portable TV before this set was even made. Most of the LCD portables that were on the market at the same time had horribly low resolution too, but I made the Radio Shack sales guy show me sports on all of them (I went on a Saturday afternoon specifically for this reason) and if I couldn't read the score, I wasn't going to consider it. So I ended up with the only unit in the whole store with a good picture, which (not surprisingly) was also the most expensive one, but I used that portable TV right up to the end of the analog TV era.
In my experience of messing around with many flybacks screen/focus controls, the board inside is remarkably accessible if you remove the cover, if it has one. The board itself is typically ceramic with a heavy graphite painting on the face that the dial contacts rests against. If you're wanting/willing in the future, you may want to check and see if the screen/focus control has a way to pry open the cover and get access to the board inside.
hey Adrian, you can rotate PDFs on firefox using the "R" key or clicking the >> arrow and selecting "rotate", why the icons are not more accessible, idk pretty annoying.
7:22 i dont think those "bars" come from a bad transformer, its just the camera shutter speed conflicting with the refresh rate, i get the same effects on all of my CRTs lol
The reason colour CRTs tend to be longer than monochrome ones: Because the shadow mask absorbs some of the electrons, a higher accelerating voltage is used to get the same brightness, which makes the deflection coils less effective for the same magnetic field strength. The easiest way to compensate for that is to make the tube longer so that less deflection angle is needed.
That antenna is double jointed for when it is mounted under a counter the double joint will allow the antenna to articulate when set to the side. It is the factory antenna. My neighbor had one back in the day :).
Super funny, pushing in the flyback pot and applying a dab of hot glue to keep it down was exactly what i was thinking! worked out way better than i wouldve expected heh. hot glue gets a bad rap and its messy but hey when it works it works.
Some fun patterns for a few frames when you switch over the switch at 32:36! I've got such a weird soft spot for those "line pointing to outside the screen" tuners. Their auto-tuning bounce...
I have the black RCA version of this. As it was failing, it was just blurry on startup, but eventually cleared up. It kept getting worse until it didn’t even light up with a blurry image. I never dug into repairing it, but still have it.
Thank you for sharing this small tv crt repair video, I have a B&W one(different model) , with this video I may be able to fix it. (I never worked on CRT , just LCD , Plasma and TFT). Hope it is only cap's I need to change.
You clicked every other button in firefox pdf reader except the ">>" double arrow on the right end that is the overflow menu, and that has the page rotation buttons in that menu, but yeah, that functionality should be more prominently displayed
I had one of these in my bedroom as a kid. The antenna clip totally works. What do you mean the clip doesn't work? 0:51 Rotate it so that it's not at a right angle, so that it's straight at both joints and then it'll clip right in.
I think the smaller TV's of this design & timeframe were built on the cheap, & consequently were subject to similar problems. I've got a number of Sony TV's of the Watchman & Mega Watchman Series, which were black & white, but built about 10-years earlier, & they haven't yet displayed those issues (holding my breath, as parts are no longer available as well). Interesting video. I can identify with the frustrations surrounding this repair.
Potentiometers can develop an oxide layer on the wiper over time. I suspect moving the wiper broke some of the oxide layer off which caused it to start working. The contact cleaner likely helped. That glue definitely needs to be removed because you're absolutely right about it becoming conductive. It's hydrophilic and has corrosive properties when it absorbs water. Incidentally if you straiten the second antenna hinge it should be able to lock into the notch on the case just fine.
The reason they used 3.5mm sockets for the antenna is in case you pick up the TV and forgot you had it plugged in. It would simply unplug itself without causing damage.
The CRT database I think is mostly Andy King. Andy is around in the community and pitches in a lot on some of the forums and such. There is a link to submit a CRT database page on the homepage in the upper right. They are working on the content all the time, but I agree it would be better if we had something like a wiki with part cross references. That I think would be a different kind of site altogether though
Looks to me like re-forming electolytic caps. Happened to me when I "resurrected" my Grandma's tube radio from 1958. Not only the tubes needed to warm up, but I also noticed on every next try, the radio would start working sooner...
I had a near-identical set to this in the 1990s, being in the UK there were some minor differences, it was branded Ferguson (a British manufacturer, part of EMI that had been bought up by Thomson around the same time as GE) and was that 1990s dark grey colour. I recall it was £199 in Comet.
I think the reason for color being deeper is that the deflection has to influence three beams instead of one and making them turn a sharper angle might cause them to land too far apart?
I've noticed sometimes if something has not been used for a long time the caps struggle. Often just leaving it connected allows for the caps to come back to life and for it to start working. I've had that happen on computers I've had stored for a few years then got back out and don't work straight away, but then come back to life after 30ish minutes. Maybe the caps become a bit dry or something, or maybe they just reform with an electric input.
Probably the device relied on the shadows underneath a cabinet to enhance visibility. Under-cebinet lights were not common before modern times. The cabinet would cast a shadow over the tube and get rid of a source of reflections. The dimmer light would make the raster harder to see.
Imagine using two of these for a VR headset... I don't know if it'll work but: after finding the right setting for the voltage screw, drill a small hole between the rotating pole and the surrounding boss and stick a thin plastic needle to keep it from moving.
That's a cute little set! The "portable" application you showed with the powerbank, is interesting. Too bad the picture circuitry is a bit of a dog. The crt looks very bright and healthy at least (on video).
It was already mentioned but i write it again anyway: You can rotate the PDF in Firefox, its hidden under the " >> " button on the top right section. (Of course it would be great if it was already present on the toolbar and not hidden.)
The 45 degree rotation thing might be referring to laying it on it's side and blocking the ventilation? I can imagine people might put this set on their nightstand, and would want to turn it sideways so they are viewing normally when they are laying on their side... Maybe some units overheated from doing that, and GE didn't want to do warranty replacements. Maybe even a fire or something happened.
Would it be possible to seal that glue with paint to slow or stop the water absorption? Fingernail polish, or acrylic paint, or the same sealer they use to waterproof circuit boards?
CRT Database is kinda user-submitted, but I don't know the specifics on how people contribute. Worthless fact is that the entry for the Sanyo DS25520 uses pictures of my unit (before I bought it).
The condition was brand new ,but i fear with a fault the part you glued. I believe it was used for a bit then it went and was put away in a box and forgotten. The adjusters do corrode over time , since they are horrid cheap little things .
Is it possible to put a tiewrap around the flyback transformer and then put a piece of rubber between the pot and the tiewrap to exercise some pressure on the pot? That would have a higher chance to last the ages than the hot glue.
Adrian did say there's no way to support direct RGB input, it is strictly composite. So you could use it with an RGB to composite adapter, but not just wires.
Hot glue isn't suitable for components that get hot(imagine that.) I learned this the hard way on a usb power supply, where the hot glue liquified, and migrated over the entire board. It was really hard to clean, because the glue wasn't just in the wrong places, it had become really thin as well. It could still be removed with IPA, but not easily.
I think Tandy/Radio Shack sold a similar portable Colour television at around the same time, maybe slightly earlier, and I do wonder if it's the same set internally, just with a different coloured enclosure.
Very COoL. I'll watch for this to be listed on eBay™ *fully tested *perfect condition *one owner *renewed by in-house tech OUR MOTTO: If you can't afford to have it done right, see us first! (we kid because we love:)
Weren’t those TVs supposed to be mounted under kitchen cabinets, but with this set there’s no circuit to turn the picture upside down for under cabinet mounting.
I would love to have a small CRT like this, I'd plug it into a splitter connected to my NES, which runs through a Retro Tink onto my Big LED TV, and then my ROB could look at this CRT for his comands while I play Gyromite/Stack up on my Big TV.
From the appearance of the feet, it seems to me there may have been a way to turn the picture over and mount it upside down on the undershelf of the cabinets. Like, the bottom would click into a mounting bracket like a bayonet mount. Wasn't something like this available? Calling Fran, Earth to Fran.. Come in, Fran..
The one thing I always hated about the SX-64 was the terrible low rez CRT. All they needed was a finer shadow mask, if not a Sony Trinitron CRT. Let's not forget the SX-64 was aimed at business. ETA: A working disk drive that was faster than tape LOL.
I've had to remove this sonybond stuff from /so/ many Kenwood radios; it also eats away at the components. It was used everywhere to hold parts in place and avoid vibrations leaking back into the oscillator. Yeah, you're going to need to remove the components and chip away at the sonybond. :(
We’re those Amature or commercial two way radios or general household electronics? Worked in a shop that sold Kenwood two way radios and sometimes we would see a hot melt style glue in certain places to prevent microfonics in certain stages.
@ I have seen some European radios with beeswax used to cut microfonics in certain oscillator circuits as well as sealing tuning slugs in coils. It is a royal pain to clear it out if one needs to retune a circuit.
![Adrian's Digital Basement ][](http://yt3.ggpht.com/ytc/AIdro_k7CrQRe71qN6c0Ua7A1P_I8KkxjqLa70u0zYeCvdvnKw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
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7:10 you didn't have the antenna in the right configuration. Make the extra 90 straight, rotate the base 90 and the antenna will fit the clip.
So called geniuses when they cant even solve a simple problem xD
Good call agent KAPT. I was dying to have that twisted around & deFunked into another position. From my angle of the dangle it's hard to be sure (duh). I really have to defer to the Man-on-Hand since my remote location there is a outstanding chance that I'm blowing smoke.
yeah i didnt understand what adrian was saying, of course you can fit it, especially after looking at that picture.
I assume he never figures it out in the video?
@@1marcelfilms Can you direct me to the part in any of Adrian's videos where he refers to himself as "a genius".
If you could do that, that would great, genius.
Some things: If you straighten the antenna at the second joint then rotate it on the first joint it'll fit fine - operator error! The CRT database said '9" or below', and unless I am very much mistaken 5 is below 9? As for the 12V AC adapter, it doesn't mean an adapter that outputs 12V AC, it means an adapter that is powered from AC and outputs 12V.
I came here to make sure someone else noted these two items
I recognize this set, because I own one. The glue holding the neck board on was conductive. A friend had a radioshack set that ended up being the same internally, and sure enough had the same fault
Oh dear - so yeah that glue really does become destructive. I wonder how many TVs will be destroyed by this blasted glue silently eating away at things?
I’m confused by the terminology here. Is this conductive as in electricly, causing shorts? I was thinking the term he meant was caustic, which causes corrosion.
@@bobbykozak6032 From what I understand, it has to do with water absorption. As the glue absorbs humidity over time, it becomes both corrosive, because of the humidity, and also conductive.
Thanks for the heads up. I should probably replace the glue in mine...
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 I see they used the same glue to hold the yoke wedges in place. Eventually it can eat away through the windings of the yoke... not a pretty thing
The 3.5mm jacks on these portable sets was largely because they have switches in them that disconnect the antenna. One of the diy TV kits I bought from china does have a normal antenna jack and it radiates the input signal from the antenna since the antenna and input jack are just paralleled
The unregulated black level problem you are having relates to what called the 'DC restoration' or 'Black-level clamp' circuitry which is built into the NTSC color decoder IC. To function, the color decoder IC usually requires a series capacitor between the video input pin and the source video signal. The problem you appear to have happens when the series capacitor between the NTSC line and the color decoder chip happens to be internally leaking DC, or the PCB has some slightly conductive material between that capacitor's 2 legs. This part of the circuit is very sensitive and any old electrolytic cap or PCB contamination around this part will throw off the brightness and contrast controls and picture level will be affected by the video content. Also, a blown color decoder IC can also cause problems as well as bad voltage regulator feedback circuitry for the HV flyback circuit.
This little TV lives in my home now. Thank you adrian!
An interesting thing about tvs with on screen tunning bar indicator is that you can identify an extra rgb channel, so you can easily add an rgb input for those monitors using the bar inputs and disabling the tuner, and an extra advantage is that you can retain any extra av input without any modification. It also works with small lcd tvs
That’s a good tip, I was thinking how one of these I have without video ins might be modded to be used with an 80s computer wihtout having to use an RF modulator.
Of course Firefox does support rotating PDFs: it's in the menu labeled with ">>". The only menu Adrian didn't try... :)
Remember when menus where readable instead of being cryptic hieroglyphics?
Yes, but like the google version, it's not as intuitive as it should be, and having to click three times to get a pdf to the correct orientation is so primitive.
Page rotation should be front and center by the zoom controls, not hidden in a hamburger menu.
CRT Database is correct. It says “9 inch *and below*” it is not calling this a 9 inch set. And it’s true, many many 9 inch and smaller non Trinitron type tubes have that screen door effect as they’re just intended to be cheap portable or shop/kitchen TVs, not for critical viewing.
Haven’t watched the whole video yet so I assume you discover this later, but CH CALL is simply a status button that displays the channel bar in its current location to know what channel you’re on. Every “bar tuning” type TV has this button for the most part.
I kinda think that as long as there's no remote control involved, then a combination on/off volume switch is an elegant solution that has regrettably come to be associated with cheap devices. It takes fractions of a second longer to use but has a few (admittedly small) advantages in cost savings, decluttering the UI and avoiding the problem of occasionally being blared in the face when the last used volume level is currently inappropriate
For tuning Rec.709/NTSC color, those three black-level calibration lines are, in order, below black, black, and slightly above. The second line should be invisible, barely showing the third line. This intuitively shows as "a little too much contrast," but that will make the background of your grid pattern look correct.
Adrian persistently adjusts them so all 3 are visible, aka slightly over-corrected in actuality, on basically every set he shows. It's like, one of the only persistent mistakes I've noticed over the years. (Edit: welp never mind, at 39:24 he's correctly called the bars as they are! Hooray!)
The other one is adjusting the classic B&W Macs' screens into a 4:3 aspect, aka getting the black border even on all sides, which results in the "square" onscreen buttons rendering as taller squarish rectangles.
if you want access SAMS service manuals many public libraries in the US have access to them for loan digitally.
Fun fact - until recently GE owned the patent on the phosphors used in CRT monitors and light bulbs. They were produced in a chemical plant in Cleveland Ohio.
Adrian, you can remove the mastic (the bad glue) using some eucalyptus oil... that will soften it to be able to remove it. You can additionally use some light heat, but it's a lot easier with the oil.
Love Adrian as he celebrates success - Geek Snoopy Bowl victory! Great channel, Adrian!
You keep waving that TV around - I was waiting for you to drop it :D
he's not linus sebastian lol..
Drop tips?
Adrian doesn't have Linusitis, luckily.
@vladimirsavkovic7701 🤣🤣🤣
I think the rotation warning has to do with the under-cabinet mount that would have been included with the set - the Spacemaker series was all about appliances that didn’t take up room on your counter top, and the mount probably couldn’t rotate more than 45 degrees in each direction.
it's possible that the ceramic pcb inside the flyback transformer has a cracked solder joint and applying pressure did a temporary fix since it is hollow under that plastic cover for the flyback potentiometers.
shouldnt the extra antenna joint just swivel 90 on the screw to allow the antenna to clip? :) thanks Adrian!
I believe so too.
Came here for this. It made my brain itch, that he couldnt see the obvious solution.
I got my hands on one of these a few months ago! Nice little composite test unit. One pin on the neck connector was arcing pretty bad, and it went away when I turned the focus down. I wound up cleaning and squeezing the connector and putting some silicone grease on it and I can now bring the focus to where it needs to be. Works great now!
This might have the same Samsung model picture tube as the one in VWestlife's color Watchman. The CRT database has been growing a lot lately and it's very good to see.
That screen door effect is exactly why I moved to an LCD portable TV before this set was even made. Most of the LCD portables that were on the market at the same time had horribly low resolution too, but I made the Radio Shack sales guy show me sports on all of them (I went on a Saturday afternoon specifically for this reason) and if I couldn't read the score, I wasn't going to consider it. So I ended up with the only unit in the whole store with a good picture, which (not surprisingly) was also the most expensive one, but I used that portable TV right up to the end of the analog TV era.
I invested in one of those small LCD TV'S years ago for focusing color CCTV cameras. Worked great but not the best resolution for some cameras.
In my experience of messing around with many flybacks screen/focus controls, the board inside is remarkably accessible if you remove the cover, if it has one. The board itself is typically ceramic with a heavy graphite painting on the face that the dial contacts rests against. If you're wanting/willing in the future, you may want to check and see if the screen/focus control has a way to pry open the cover and get access to the board inside.
hey Adrian, you can rotate PDFs on firefox using the "R" key or clicking the >> arrow and selecting "rotate", why the icons are not more accessible, idk pretty annoying.
Nice the Famicom returns for the mini TV what a match...❤
7:22 i dont think those "bars" come from a bad transformer, its just the camera shutter speed conflicting with the refresh rate, i get the same effects on all of my CRTs lol
The reason colour CRTs tend to be longer than monochrome ones: Because the shadow mask absorbs some of the electrons, a higher accelerating voltage is used to get the same brightness, which makes the deflection coils less effective for the same magnetic field strength. The easiest way to compensate for that is to make the tube longer so that less deflection angle is needed.
Umm... yeah that antenna will clip in there just fine. rotate the bottom joint 90 degrees left, then rotate it down.
That antenna is double jointed for when it is mounted under a counter the double joint will allow the antenna to articulate when set to the side. It is the factory antenna. My neighbor had one back in the day :).
I remember that TV, we wanted one so bad so we could watch the news in the kitchen while doing dishes.
Super funny, pushing in the flyback pot and applying a dab of hot glue to keep it down was exactly what i was thinking! worked out way better than i wouldve expected heh. hot glue gets a bad rap and its messy but hey when it works it works.
On the plus side, I'm fairly certain that aerial clip works just fine, you just need to rotate it and straighten the elbow
That is the cutest little crt, I wish I could still find stuff like that ❤️
Some fun patterns for a few frames when you switch over the switch at 32:36! I've got such a weird soft spot for those "line pointing to outside the screen" tuners. Their auto-tuning bounce...
Rotate the base of the antenna sacrebleu! :)
What an interesting little TV set. Hope it goes on to serve you well.
I have the black RCA version of this. As it was failing, it was just blurry on startup, but eventually cleared up. It kept getting worse until it didn’t even light up with a blurry image. I never dug into repairing it, but still have it.
Thank you for sharing this small tv crt repair video, I have a B&W one(different model) , with this video I may be able to fix it. (I never worked on CRT , just LCD , Plasma and TFT). Hope it is only cap's I need to change.
You clicked every other button in firefox pdf reader except the ">>" double arrow on the right end that is the overflow menu, and that has the page rotation buttons in that menu, but yeah, that functionality should be more prominently displayed
all u had was basicly a lil dirt in the hv potentiometer for the screen drive, when u touched it u broke the oxidisation and made it work fine
The way the potentiometer was behaving makes me think that it's fallen apart inside in a way that the wiper only makes contact when it's pushed in.
Just arrange the antenna so that it doesn't have a kink.
I had one of these in my bedroom as a kid. The antenna clip totally works. What do you mean the clip doesn't work? 0:51 Rotate it so that it's not at a right angle, so that it's straight at both joints and then it'll clip right in.
I think the smaller TV's of this design & timeframe were built on the cheap, & consequently were subject to similar problems. I've got a number of Sony TV's of the Watchman & Mega Watchman Series, which were black & white, but built about 10-years earlier, & they haven't yet displayed those issues (holding my breath, as parts are no longer available as well).
Interesting video. I can identify with the frustrations surrounding this repair.
Awesome video! I love CRT work videos!
The antenna extension prevents breaking when it is bended to right, simple that. The anthena acts like a leaver when it is bended to right
i have one of these in my storage unit back in my old state of residence. they are amazing
The CRT reminds me of my old Trinitron, just a different size. Back in the day that was a pretty handy TV to have around.
Ah, lacking the dour, crabby and cynical delivery of Shango, but still just as good and informative.
Potentiometers can develop an oxide layer on the wiper over time. I suspect moving the wiper broke some of the oxide layer off which caused it to start working. The contact cleaner likely helped. That glue definitely needs to be removed because you're absolutely right about it becoming conductive. It's hydrophilic and has corrosive properties when it absorbs water. Incidentally if you straiten the second antenna hinge it should be able to lock into the notch on the case just fine.
The way the potentiometer was behaving makes me think that it's fallen apart inside in a way that the wiper only makes contact when it's pushed in.
The reason they used 3.5mm sockets for the antenna is in case you pick up the TV and forgot you had it plugged in. It would simply unplug itself without causing damage.
The CRT database I think is mostly Andy King. Andy is around in the community and pitches in a lot on some of the forums and such. There is a link to submit a CRT database page on the homepage in the upper right. They are working on the content all the time, but I agree it would be better if we had something like a wiki with part cross references. That I think would be a different kind of site altogether though
yay, new episode of "haunted electronics with black magic archmage Adrian"!
After use CC: Clean contact cleaner with IPA or ethanol.
Cute, nice little screen😊
Never give up Adrian.
Looks to me like re-forming electolytic caps. Happened to me when I "resurrected" my Grandma's tube radio from 1958. Not only the tubes needed to warm up, but I also noticed on every next try, the radio would start working sooner...
I had a near-identical set to this in the 1990s, being in the UK there were some minor differences, it was branded Ferguson (a British manufacturer, part of EMI that had been bought up by Thomson around the same time as GE) and was that 1990s dark grey colour. I recall it was £199 in Comet.
I think the reason for color being deeper is that the deflection has to influence three beams instead of one and making them turn a sharper angle might cause them to land too far apart?
I've noticed sometimes if something has not been used for a long time the caps struggle. Often just leaving it connected allows for the caps to come back to life and for it to start working. I've had that happen on computers I've had stored for a few years then got back out and don't work straight away, but then come back to life after 30ish minutes. Maybe the caps become a bit dry or something, or maybe they just reform with an electric input.
Never mind, maybe a damaged board inside the controller box, or maybe the actual adjuster is damaged and somehow not making a proper connection.
Probably the device relied on the shadows underneath a cabinet to enhance visibility. Under-cebinet lights were not common before modern times. The cabinet would cast a shadow over the tube and get rid of a source of reflections. The dimmer light would make the raster harder to see.
Great fun video. I love watching monitor repairs.
Imagine using two of these for a VR headset...
I don't know if it'll work but: after finding the right setting for the voltage screw, drill a small hole between the rotating pole and the surrounding boss and stick a thin plastic needle to keep it from moving.
What's the USB power bank?
Yes Adrian please tell us. I have been wanting one since seeing it in another video. Please Please.
It's a Chargeasap Flash Pro Plus, model info's displayed at 51:22 - it does smart watch charging as well.
What is he using to convert to the right input for the TV?
I could heard the whine when you powered it up, its nostalgic
49:50: You tilted the TV more than 45˚ !!! That's against usage instructions! :D :D :D
As always, amazing video. Thanks!
The one place you needed circuit glue and they didnt add it, marvelous.
That's a cute little set! The "portable" application you showed with the powerbank, is interesting. Too bad the picture circuitry is a bit of a dog. The crt looks very bright and healthy at least (on video).
It was already mentioned but i write it again anyway: You can rotate the PDF in Firefox, its hidden under the " >> " button on the top right section. (Of course it would be great if it was already present on the toolbar and not hidden.)
The 45 degree rotation thing might be referring to laying it on it's side and blocking the ventilation? I can imagine people might put this set on their nightstand, and would want to turn it sideways so they are viewing normally when they are laying on their side... Maybe some units overheated from doing that, and GE didn't want to do warranty replacements. Maybe even a fire or something happened.
Would it be possible to seal that glue with paint to slow or stop the water absorption? Fingernail polish, or acrylic paint, or the same sealer they use to waterproof circuit boards?
48:10 coherer effect? But with high voltages I'm not sure how!
CRT Database is kinda user-submitted, but I don't know the specifics on how people contribute. Worthless fact is that the entry for the Sanyo DS25520 uses pictures of my unit (before I bought it).
"Cute but broken"
Honestly same 🙃
Couldn't you just rotate the base of the antenna 90 degrees counter clockwise and then it would line up with the notch?
To rotate PDF in Firefox, click double "greater than" icon below "Other Bookmarks" on the right and choose on menu "Rotate Clockwise",...
it was also right there in plain site on the video when he right clicked the schematic at 16:44 ...
31:20 there is only one logical explanation - you're a wizard ;)
The condition was brand new ,but i fear with a fault the part you glued.
I believe it was used for a bit then it went and was put away in a box and forgotten.
The adjusters do corrode over time , since they are horrid cheap little things .
Is it possible to put a tiewrap around the flyback transformer and then put a piece of rubber between the pot and the tiewrap to exercise some pressure on the pot? That would have a higher chance to last the ages than the hot glue.
Can you use these as a crt computer monitor? I assume no because I never see anyone adding a vga port but if it can’t I was wondering why it can’t?
Adrian did say there's no way to support direct RGB input, it is strictly composite. So you could use it with an RGB to composite adapter, but not just wires.
Hot glue isn't suitable for components that get hot(imagine that.) I learned this the hard way on a usb power supply, where the hot glue liquified, and migrated over the entire board. It was really hard to clean, because the glue wasn't just in the wrong places, it had become really thin as well. It could still be removed with IPA, but not easily.
Firefox can rotate pdf's by selecting the "more" menu at the top right.
I think Tandy/Radio Shack sold a similar portable Colour television at around the same time, maybe slightly earlier, and I do wonder if it's the same set internally, just with a different coloured enclosure.
Can you use compressed air to make the glue very cold and brittle?
gotta make a poke-button to poke the pot
You tilted it! Such a rebel.
Antenna does clip fine. Just turn it 180 degrees
Looks like a repackaged version of a similar TV that was sold by Rat Shack.
Very COoL. I'll watch for this to be listed on eBay™ *fully tested *perfect condition *one owner *renewed by in-house tech OUR MOTTO: If you can't afford to have it done right, see us first! (we kid because we love:)
Weren’t those TVs supposed to be mounted under kitchen cabinets, but with this set there’s no circuit to turn the picture upside down for under cabinet mounting.
But some sponge in the case to press on the trimmer same as what you were doing... hot glues great till it warms up and it stops working...
My bet why it started working is the old caps reformed while is was on.
Makes me wonder if that set wasn't properly setup from the factory.
i have one of those powerbanks, love mine
I would love to have a small CRT like this, I'd plug it into a splitter connected to my NES, which runs through a Retro Tink onto my Big LED TV, and then my ROB could look at this CRT for his comands while I play Gyromite/Stack up on my Big TV.
Picture looks considerably better than the 5" screen on a SX64.
Hurray! Another CRT saved!
From the appearance of the feet, it seems to me there may have been a way to turn the picture over and mount it upside down on the undershelf of the cabinets. Like, the bottom would click into a mounting bracket like a bayonet mount. Wasn't something like this available? Calling Fran, Earth to Fran.. Come in, Fran..
The one thing I always hated about the SX-64 was the terrible low rez CRT. All they needed was a finer shadow mask, if not a Sony Trinitron CRT.
Let's not forget the SX-64 was aimed at business.
ETA: A working disk drive that was faster than tape LOL.
Where can I get that USB C powerbank?
Chargeasap sells them on their own website. I don't think I can post links here, but google is your friend.
I've had to remove this sonybond stuff from /so/ many Kenwood radios; it also eats away at the components. It was used everywhere to hold parts in place and avoid vibrations leaking back into the oscillator.
Yeah, you're going to need to remove the components and chip away at the sonybond. :(
We’re those Amature or commercial two way radios or general household electronics? Worked in a shop that sold Kenwood two way radios and sometimes we would see a hot melt style glue in certain places to prevent microfonics in certain stages.
@@Subgunman kenwood amateur radios. yeah, it was either sonybond in the 80s radios or something more like white wax in the later radios.
@ I have seen some European radios with beeswax used to cut microfonics in certain oscillator circuits as well as sealing tuning slugs in coils. It is a royal pain to clear it out if one needs to retune a circuit.
do you mind recapping my little 5" color tv?
it has a funky thing where it pinches the picture to one side when using my playstation 1 with it