How to Build Super Simple Drawers -- WOOD magazine
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Limiting yourself to building cabinets or furniture without drawers is like driving a car without a steering wheel--in both cases, you won't get too far. Dovetails are great and interlocking router-cut joints can be super strong, but oftentimes simple is better. In this video, WOOD Magazine's Jeff Mertz shows you how to build super-simple drawers using only one setup on your tablesaw.
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What a nice demo! I learned so much in a few minutes. This is a great channel, very rich content. Great visuals, clear audio, succinct instructions. No music!!! Thank you for sparing my ears all unnecessary noise. Loved it! Thank you. Subscribed.
After studying the video several times, I gave it a go today. Worked perfectly on my test drawer. Did have to include a shim in my dado stack. Tried without to same effect as in the video. I now have ten drawers to make, but am no longer very apprehensive of the project.
Pocoyo
Roger Scow i
I'm repairing a drawer in a desk made by my great-grandfather. This is the joint that was used. I've been putting it off, needing to figure out how to replicate it. Now I know. Thanks for the tutorial.
Those who are not understanding why this is “super simple “need to try to make 20 drawer boxes with either dovetail‘s or even simple box joints, and then they’ll understand why this is simple. I’m glad I found this, It will make doing those drawer boxes way way faster.
Amen to that!
Or you can cut the pieces held vertically against the fence and not need the shim. That way the 1/4” fence position works for everything.
exactly
there's an excellent video that demonstrates this. ruclips.net/video/_Z3pMyNPfi0/видео.html
If dubbelsided tape fall on your sawblade (deu to sawdust for instends or not sticking to mdf) you have a mdf missileblade
Made this today using my router table and a 1/4" bit ... worked great.
The way he's pushing that board through at 6:46 is exactly how I was doing it when I had a table saw accident. The board kicked back, and knocked my finger into the blade. Thankfully the blade was only up 1/4" otherwise I would have cut my index finger off.
Now I ALWAYS use a pushblock and a feather board to hold the piece against the fence.
Pocket hole joinery has its place...but I like this method a whole lot better especially for multiple drawers ....Thanks for showing this method.
I bought this as a gift for my friend ruclips.net/user/postUgkxcZqgZ8Ynkiz5n_LxIWRlAicuzmz5kCHG who is just starting out in the world of wood work. He loves it!! There is a great section on different wood and what to use for what kind of job and a similar section for tools as well. The projects in it are things you probably would have a go at with clear instructions, pictures, videos and diagrams throughout. Great for a beginner/amateur wood worker.
Excellent work.
With these sophisticated woodworking tools I could make anything.
I'm going to start to build out my master closet units and I'll be doing drawers for the first time. I think I'm going to use these joints. Thanks for the tutorial.
What would be the best preferred method to finish all that poplar wood? Would you use a Polyurethane , Lindseed oil, Bee wax? I want to build a few cabinets this week.
It would be helpful to note that the dado is not 1/4 inch as stated, but instead, half the thickness of the board. (Presumably slightly greater than 1/4 inch after adding the shim.) Using a different example, say, a 3/4 inch thick board, the dado would be 3/8 inch. And in this case, you'd want to remember to reduce the dado thickness to 1/4 inch before cutting the groove for the bottoms.
James Bizily agreed. This video is misleading
Did he maybe do multiple passes to widen the dado a bit?
Thanks.. .I was assuming it was 3/4 stock...so you saved me some time. I got it dialed in after about an hour and 3/8" dado with the same routine worked great.
Thanks, James. Glad I read your comment before starting the eight drawers I'm making for my workbench. So, the spacer would have to be 3/8 inch too in that case ... not 1/4 inch? Correct? And is that spacer really necessary anyway?
This one comment saved me tons of work. Thank you.
If you have this kind of setup and tools everything becomes simple :)
I just built a pair of drawers this way this morning. Very easy and strong.
I watched another video on the same subject just before i watched this one. As a carpenter for 30 yrs i like to compare different methods. I`m sorry to say,,but the other guy (an older fellow) seem to have a simpler method of doing the same joint, Once his saw was set up,,,nothing was changed to make the whole drawer
This is how I build my drawers. It is an efficient way of doing it!
Excellent information, thank you.
Would you suggest glue and pin nails for assembly?
very brillan tehnic idea.thank you so much,its very useful.
With width being the critical factor for drawers, wouldn't it be better to reverse that joint?
That way, the front and back would be the exact width required, while the sides get cut to length.
If the sides are +/- a fractional inch, it won't matter that much, provided they are symmetrical.
Most tolerances for drawer slides are +/- 0 - 1/32"
That makes sense -- thanks for the reply!
I know this ia 5 years old, but it's spot on.
I did a similar thing using only the regular sawblade. Set the fence at 1/4" for the dado, do all dados, move the fence to 1/2" from opposite side of the blade finish dados. If you do dados and bottom groove at the same time, it is only one setup for both. For rabbit, set fence to 1/4" from opposite side of the blade, pass, then freehand from first cut to board edge. I don't do enough to justify dado blades.
Nice video, excellent drawers. Saving this one.
Even easier than taping a shim to the rip fence, changing the miter gauge extension, etc., is to just get 2 pieces of scrap that are each exactly half the thickness of the drawer pieces (so 2 1/4" thick scraps for 1/2" thick drawer sides). Dial in your dado stack to exactly the thickness of these scrap pieces by cutting a test dado into a third piece of scrap (this scrap can be any size), and make sure your 2 scrap pieces each fit well in the test dado. Use the 2 scrap pieces sandwiched together to set the fence away from the blade. Use one scrap piece to set the height of the blade. Clamp one scrap piece to the rip fence ahead of the blade as a stop, making sure the miter gauge extension (if you're using one) doesn't hit it. Slide each end of each drawer side up to the stop, and run it through the blade to make the dado. Now clamp the second scrap with the first one, doubling the thickness of the stop, slide each end of the drawer front and back pieces up to it, and run them through the blade to make the rabbets. Same result, but IMO a lot easier than that business with moving the miter gauge extension, or taping a shim to the fence (how much thickness does that double-stick tape add?). Assuming you can find 2 scraps that total the thickness of the drawer pieces, it works out exactly the same.
JusBidnes I agree that the shim has always been the weakness in building this joint. Part of this is due to the fact that plywood is not exactly 1/2" or 3/4" thick. But how do you obtain these two pieces of equal custom thickness? and how much more time is needed to make them?
@@leozappa8226 Make one that's the right thickness,and cut it in half. Now you have two pieces the same thickness.
What brand of tape did you use to attach the spacer to the fence.
I stumbled across this video as I'm always searching for techniques. The problem with this method is that you should NEVER use a table saw with a miter gauge fence butted up against the table saw fence. High probability of binding and accidents. I'm surprised this video made it through the edit mode before posting.
@@Wood If it's OK with you I would rather believe Norm Abram and others like him who teach using a stop block or spacer to ensure there is no binding or kick back. If you're saw is not set up to have all components be 100% aligned, likely like many DYI'ers, you run a chance of pinching the work piece against the saw fence and putting side pressure on to the blade. Just check the geometry. It doesn't matter if it is a dado, rabbet or through cut.
@@Wood What a brilliant retort. Perhaps it would be a good idea to have the presenter explain that it's important to make sure the table saw is properly set up before using this method. More information is better than no information.
The way i will be building my drawers from now on many thanks
Looks wonderful!
Very good!
Wonderful video thank you so much!!
very nice thank
How do you fasten the pieces together, glue, screws, Brad nails, etc?
Hello, very useful video, can tell you anyone tell me if you add a daddo stack on the DW745 contractors table saw? If not I suppose my router table would do and that’s another video. Thanks again
What kind of wood would anyone recommend for the front, back, & sides? (shop application)
Thanks for showing us how to make that shim /s
Thanks. Great video. I am pretty sure that I can do that now. I needed this video.
best tutorial video
What is the thickness of the drawer sides in this video? I know it was years ago but thanks.
About the interlocking test at about 1:50... it is mystifying. Let's call the wall of the dado nearest the edge of the board the "near wall", and the wall furthest away from the edge the "far wall". The only requirement on the dado, other than that it not be too unreasonably deep or too skinny, would seem to be that the distance from the far wall of the dado to the edge of the board that the dado is in should be equal to the thickness of the mating piece (the piece with the rabbet)--- that and of course the fact that the thickness left by the rabbet must be the dado width.
m oc All dimensions must be equal. The width and height of the stacked dado, the distance to the fence, the thickness of the shim. Alter any of these dimensions and the joint will have gaps.
great video. thanks for sharing.
I've seen some wood workers use the method of gluing two pieces of wood together and follow up with a finish nailer to keep the pieces "clamped" in place while the glue dries. Once together, the woodworker will use screws as well. What circumstance is this practical and what circumstance is it not practical? I assumed glue was the only thing you needed if clamped properly and time permitted.
great video, I really like it only needs one set up to complete the joint.
Neat and efficient way to make it fast and clean, but in my opinion i don't like very much seeing the joing on the top of the corner assembly, back or front, so for those who prefers hiding joints as much as possible, machining won't help and cutting should be stopped before finishing with a scissor to make a blind gutter. Like a mortaise, so.
+Okto Putsch Just a thought, but these drawer boxes would likely have an additional drawer face added to them later. That would hide the joint that I believe you are referring to. I think it's just showing a convenient way to assemble a simple but strong box.
1/2 “ plywood is actually less than that so the three measurements (fence to blade, blade height, dado width) for the setup should be half the true thickness?
Correct me if I am wrong, but, for this to work, doesn't the sides have to be true 1/2" thick boards?
And what do you do about the square holes in every corner?
Excellent...
And why did you not simply move the fence rather than sinking around with a time intensive spacer?
1/4-1/4-1/4
Time to buy a dado ... Thanks Wood magazine.
Do you recommend cutting your drawer bottoms to where they fill up the full depth of the grooves, or do you leave the bottoms slightly small?
Usually with floating drawer bottoms, the idea is to leave them slightly small to allow for expansion in a hot garage or shop, so that the expanding bottom doesn't force the corner joints apart. This isn't so critical with drawers that will be in a more climate-controlled environment like in your house, or if the drawers are a small enough size that bottom expansion is not much of a factor.
JusBidniss Thanks for the reply! I usually leave mine a bit small, but I was curious if I had been doing it wrong. I haven’t had a drawer fail yet, but still always looking for improvements.
It's good tutorial program I saw and thanks for it.
Hi! I have a question, what kind of saw blade did you use in order to make the cuts? A dado saw?
Thank you for this video, was helpful
Are using 2 blades sir, hiw do you do it?
Thank you so much for the info. It helped me a lot.
Also known as the quarter-quarter-quarter system.
nice! thanks for posting.
Are they secured only with glue?
DAD630777 Yes. In many cases, the fasteners (ie nails or screws) are only there to hold until the glue cures.
On one of the passes the heal end was touching the fence and the forward end was off the fence by a sixteenth
You said you used a shim when adjusting the dato to fit the rabbit ; that adjustment is very minute. What do you use as a shim ?
The shims from the dado set
You can also use different thicknesses of paper. I have some that are regular copy paper to 3x5 cards. My first dado set didn’t include shims. The next set I bought ($99) from Craftsman, came with them. Hope this helps.
I'd like to once see a youtube video of someone making even a simple chest of draws without equipment worth hundreds or thousands of dollars.
Without a table saw? So hand tools, which are likely going to cost more than the table saw for people who bother making videos.
What is the name of the blade you used to made these rabbet joints?
ohnonotbunny
It's called a Stacked Dado Set
Lou Moritz thank you
what sort of wood being used in this tutorial?
Maple front and back, Poplar sides.
For the fronts and backs, why go through the trouble of trying to find a properly sized spacer? Why not use a sacrificial board thicker than the gap and move the fence accordingly? Of course, you'll want to do all the sides first so that you don't care about losing the setting.
James Bizily what if you have multiple drawers to build? not moving the fence at all is nice.
It looks like he used solid wood for the sides and front and back.
Does anyone know if the drawer sides and front can be plywood using this method?
He said he was using Baltic Birch Plywood
That was for the drawer bottom. He didn't say what the sides, fronts and rears were made of but they looked like poplar in the video.
Add a shim? Whst did u ad a shim to?
Add the shim to your table saw fence.
@@leozappa8226 thanks!
@@leozappa8226
No, he is speaking of adding a shim into the dado stack to widen it sufficiently.
I want to use 3/4" plywood for my drawers including bottoms. Would you still recommend the same method for the bottoms or something different?
Yes, any thickness will work, just cut the dados and rabbits widths and depths at 1/2 the thickness of the boards. In your case it would be 3/8" for 3/4". The 1/4", 1/4", 1/4", system can be 3/8", 3/8", 3/8" for 3/4". This is nice because with so many odd and now metric thickness plywoods showing up at the lumber yards all you need to do is just find what 1/2 the thickness of your board is and build away!
Actually Baltic Birch is not 1/4" of an inch it is a tad less. 1/2" is also slightly smaller..
i think you need some help understanding the term "Super Simple"
TUFUNGA TATTS Hard to imagine any real joint being any simpler than this. Sure, you can use butt joints...
I guess you're simple
lol yeah exactly
I’d hate they don’t show it all complete you skipped a part of when it wouldn’t fit you just told us an didn’t demonstrate how the correction is made also how do you connect it with the drawer housing it’s an cool video but needs better presentation I actually want to make one but don’t know where to make the housing and everything included there
much simpler set ups than this system almost identical
and i dont use any of this, just glue, clamps and pocket screws but then again i am pretty lazy about it all... often times only making the most basic of measurements and then winging it
so stop being lazy, and do a better job
What is Steve Jobs doing here making drawers?
Two things, after thanking you for the helpful presentation:
1) although I'll admit it was back in another CENTURY, I coulda swore we were taught that it's taboo (clever word for DANGEROUS) to use BOTH the fence and the miter gauge on a table saw (guessing the likely answer is that you're just cutting a dado on the underside, not through-cutting, so what danger?);
2) I don't follow how it's useful at the first checkpoint to take two identical pieces after cutting the dado to see if they can fit together: that's not how things fit, so what's the point, PLUS - bumping the fence in a smidgen would allow those pieces to fit together easier than shimming the dado stack - although as I said, what does THAT prove?
Thanks, again, though - my own best take-away is your mention of having tested the strength of this joint, finding it stronger than the much more complicated (half-blind, was it?) dovetail. KISS principle wins again!
that is one hec of a zero clearance insert. i just do pocket hole joinery
S.P.K SR. Nothing screams amateur like pocket holes.
@@LTVoyager Yes amateur...and weak ugly joints, not to mention ongoing cost.
A
Super simple IF you have specific tools.
Just screw the parts together. That will be simple .
and bad. simple and bad.
Wait, I thought that was my idea.
I'm stunned by lots of the questions here. I get the impression that many people have to wear Crocs because they can't figure out what a shoe-lace is for.
😂
how do you make a "dedo" without a power table saw? Too many people on youtube assume everyone owns an expensive table saw, etc. Is this possible to make without power tools? I imagine woodworkers must have prior to the invention of power tools.
Table Saws are no longer expensive...especially just before Christmas at Home Depot or Lowe's.
Some still make anything at all with hand tools. Google it.
The wider audience that he is directing the video to, have a table saw.
It's called "dado". With hand tools, a marking gauge or pencil to layout your dado, and a chisel/hammer to remove most of the waste, then a dado plane to clean up the bottom.
nice concept not a fan of application
thats not super simple.....super simple would if you did that without dado....not everyone has dado blades...its a very good tutorial but not super simple...
don't see why one would go to all the trouble to make a perfect rabbet and use such shitty sliders - honestly
Lol, I agree. But in fairness, this was in 2007, so the ball-bearing slides may not have been as easily obtainable and affordable back then.
nahhhh - they were very available and cheap (on ebay for example or amazon) - accuride for example
"...stronger than half blind dovetails." How much pressure does a drawer need to withstand? Nothing wrong with either joint, but to test either for a drawer joint is beyond the realm of common sense. What is it with the faux drama anymore? Boo!
Just takes longer and is a little more tedious to do the dovetails. As far as strength is concerned, it's not worth the extra effort. Appearance may be a different story...
I wonder if you see the irony in your post -- Anyway, the point is to prove to hobbyist woodworkers that it is a good joint for drawers.
This is not super simple.
Fuckin complicate