Well I found this very informative, having presumed that the wire going in on the left above would have logically come out at the left below, and so on across. But no. Sort of diagonal. Counter intuitive. But now I know how to wire it. Understanding why it’s laid out internally in this bizarre way is above my pay grade. Just so long as it works and I don’t muck up any expensive bits of kit by applying overloads or incorrect neutral/positive transpositions. Thank you uploader. 😊
I understand how/why Regs call for this type of Isolator, as opposed to (old) Circuit Breaker style. Since they are approx 4x the cost of the (old) CB, I only hope to do it Once. The issue is, I want to be certain that the Isolator that I get will work with One set initially, and a 2nd set down the line. e.g. One 500W 48VDC 30A PV Panel currently, with plans to add a SECOND of the same, within a year. Is it possible to get an Isolator that covers me for the one Panel; and, the Same Isolator covers me when I add the Second PV panel ? Cheers ! Solid Video 👍🏼
On the exact same DC box I have, the bottom right connects to the top left as you have them, but I have two pairs of solar arrays and two inverters. So I also have to use bottom left and top right (criss/cross) so that both sides can be switched off at the same time.
Wish I could see where to click attach to inverter. Mc4 connectors between inverter and isolator? And mc4 connectors also between isolator and panels? So a set of mc4s on both sides of isolator?
@@duncansarmy ferrules are quite important for high voltage, high amperage, watch some experiments made about this and you will change your mind about it, plus they look more professional and a kit it is not so expensive.
Well I found this very informative, having presumed that the wire going in on the left above would have logically come out at the left below, and so on across. But no. Sort of diagonal. Counter intuitive. But now I know how to wire it. Understanding why it’s laid out internally in this bizarre way is above my pay grade. Just so long as it works and I don’t muck up any expensive bits of kit by applying overloads or incorrect neutral/positive transpositions. Thank you uploader. 😊
I understand how/why Regs call for this type of Isolator, as opposed to (old) Circuit Breaker style. Since they are approx 4x the cost of the (old) CB, I only hope to do it Once. The issue is, I want to be certain that the Isolator that I get will work with One set initially, and a 2nd set down the line.
e.g. One 500W 48VDC 30A PV Panel currently, with plans to add a SECOND of the same, within a year.
Is it possible to get an Isolator that covers me for the one Panel; and, the Same Isolator covers me when I add the Second PV panel ?
Cheers ! Solid Video 👍🏼
On the exact same DC box I have, the bottom right connects to the top left as you have them, but I have two pairs of solar arrays and two inverters. So I also have to use bottom left and top right (criss/cross) so that both sides can be switched off at the same time.
So if you have two strings of panels, where does the other pair of wires go? Just at the top next to the others?
@@carl8568 Yes, string 2 would go on top right (in) and bottom left (out)
whats a good 48v pump for a shower ? 3-4 m pressure head
Wish I could see where to click attach to inverter. Mc4 connectors between inverter and isolator? And mc4 connectors also between isolator and panels? So a set of mc4s on both sides of isolator?
where are the ferrules?
Definetly wrong! No ferrules on the stranded cable , that is a must, plus, that is not the way to strip a cable, sorry!
Nothing at all wrong with this install, likely couldn't fit ferrules into the enclosure. Ferrules are a tool, not a requirement
@@duncansarmy ferrules are quite important for high voltage, high amperage, watch some experiments made about this and you will change your mind about it, plus they look more professional and a kit it is not so expensive.
Gabriel Ionescu can assure you I won’t
cringing when he uses pliers to remove the sheathing