Instead of measuring the distance between ghe bar and the 2×4 guide, you ciuld use pairs of identical length sleeves over the threaded rod to set the height for whatever board thickness you want to cut.
Awesome how you made that mill like that. I'm going to be building me and my wife a cabin and people like yourself has help me with my dream of building are cabin. Thank for the video bubba. Awesome work💯
WOW ! I remember the days when I had all the mechanized tools and BIG BOX supply STORES was down the street thereby I could build a airplane. Buuuutt when one find themselves in a 3rd world country with only a chain saw and 2 feet x 2 feet logs deep in the BUSH , WOW ! THIS type mill is sent from HEAVEN . 10,000 TIMES 👍👍👍👍.
Great job! Light, mobility, less storage space and simple design is always better. I think wider than 6" will produce excellent slabs / surface. Add pushing handle and maybe safety bar.. Your hand is very close to running chain toward the end off cutting. Glove is compulsory there!
Quick & easy. Nice setup. I bet it would be fairly easy to add a trailing piece to hold the kerf space so you didn't have to insert wedges every couple feet
And if you look up thread charts you can see how many turns it takes to go a full inch or how far one turn will get you and you should be able to find them specs for any different style thread
looks like he is using a cross cut chain instead of a ripping chain. Ripping chain has a 10 degree pitch where a cross cut chain has a 30 degree pitch. Makes a big difference
@@LaukSmith Pretty simple to accommodate those that may not be very good at English. Took me 30 seconds to translate with Google. Turns out that this is Portuguese. "Fletcher, for this type of cut what is the right degree to sharpen the teeth of the chain and how high are the guides ?? "
you will always run on the nuts underneath the actual "slide block" because they are sticking out. pitty! this is definitely hard to push because I guess it is tilting on these nuts...?
Marat Mars I used a cobalt drill bit, 3/8" and a drill press. Measured half way up the bar and in away from the end so that the sprocket would not be ruined.
Love it! If you get a chance and are inclined to do so, would you mind editing the last half of your narrative louder? I'm not sure if it's this old man's hearing but I can't hear your voice over the saw. At any rate, sometimes simple is better! Planning on trying something like this myself!
Patricia Petroff I no longer have the source video to make any edits. The end of the video basically just talks about using wedges to keep the bar from binding while sawing. Also make sure to use a mask if you are sawing close to the ground or it might make you sick from the fumes of the saw.
Unfortunately your voice over was completely blocked by the sound of your video. You can hear your chipmunk voice from the sped up video over your voice over and then when you start the saw you can't hear your voice over at all. I think the jig speaks for itself and is pretty simple for people to figure out by just watching but for future videos, maybe make sure that you turn off the sound of the original video during your voice over. Nice jig!
Going to make it! 😁 My one question I have is with all of these milling videos that I see is that they are cutting the wood to 2"+ thickness. I don't ever see 1/2", 3/4", 1" slabs. Why is that? Especially if you don't have a band saw to mill it down even further.
Guy H. For me it’s all about what I will use in the future. It is all but impossible to buy 2inch thick in the store. You can cut 1inch, just have to make sure you are dead level with you first cut
Mostly because the chain leaves a rougher cut so plaining will be necessary to get a smooth board after it shrinks up to 1/2" while drying. Hope this helps.
Instead of measuring the distance between ghe bar and the 2×4 guide, you ciuld use pairs of identical length sleeves over the threaded rod to set the height for whatever board thickness you want to cut.
A lot of these videos over think the concept of the diy chainsaw mill. Thanks for posting this!!!
Awesome how you made that mill like that. I'm going to be building me and my wife a cabin and people like yourself has help me with my dream of building are cabin. Thank for the video bubba. Awesome work💯
WOW ! I remember the days when I had all the mechanized tools and BIG BOX supply STORES was down the street thereby I could build a airplane.
Buuuutt when one find themselves in a 3rd world country with only a chain saw and 2 feet x 2 feet logs deep in the BUSH , WOW ! THIS type mill is sent from HEAVEN . 10,000 TIMES 👍👍👍👍.
Great job! Light, mobility, less storage space and simple design is always better. I think wider than 6" will produce excellent slabs / surface.
Add pushing handle and maybe safety bar.. Your hand is very close to running chain toward the end off cutting. Glove is compulsory there!
great video man. shows it can be done. where there is a will there is a way... well done
This is so cool thank you so much this is an awesome idea that I'm going to put to use right away
Man, for $15 I think this is great! I appreciate you posting this.
Thank you so much. Perfectly what I am looking for.
Get a skip tooth chain for that. It will help keep the R's up.
Quick & easy. Nice setup. I bet it would be fairly easy to add a trailing piece to hold the kerf space so you didn't have to insert wedges every couple feet
Okay this is so simple.....wtf am I doing saving up money for one lmao. Thank you thank you thank you
Turning a 16tpi nut one turn give 1/16th inch of travel? Who would have guessed?
For the longitudinal cutting of wood, the chain needs to be sharpened at an angle of 10° and I sawed the limiters on the chain links a little more
Simple, yet looks very effective! Might have to try this!
Leo Gallant it is fairly efficient, but the kerf is a bit wide so it does waste a little wood.
Love simple but effective ideas. I looked at several others that were over engineered in my opinion.
This is simple yet effective.
Very simple great idea,i think some type of safety guard set up for tip if your saw and it would be even better.
this is the best methed i have ever seen thanks you so much
Good instructions, but we can't hear you over the sound of the chainsaw.
привет из Москвы,очень и очень просто и дёшево.разумно.(greetings from Moscow,very easy and cheap.reasonable.).
most simple and quick working jig. Thumb up.
And if you look up thread charts you can see how many turns it takes to go a full inch or how far one turn will get you and you should be able to find them specs for any different style thread
Ok...I'm making one of these tomorrow!!!
this is worth is just for the 4x4 and 6x6's alone
Very cool. I will do this thanks for your video!
I'd do it but I can't bear drilling holes in my chiansaw bar
better to use hard wood spacer instead of adjusting the distance using the bolts. cutting in shorts. ????
looks like he is using a cross cut chain instead of a ripping chain. Ripping chain has a 10 degree pitch where a cross cut chain has a 30 degree pitch. Makes a big difference
Fletcher, para esse tipo de corte qual é grau certo para afiar os dentes da corrente e qual a altura dos guias??
@@josuedefigueiredofagundes9566 no speaky Mexican. only English. talk to me in English. don't speak English? get a translator
@@LaukSmith Pretty simple to accommodate those that may not be very good at English. Took me 30 seconds to translate with Google. Turns out that this is Portuguese.
"Fletcher, for this type of cut what is the right degree to sharpen the teeth of the chain and how high are the guides ??
"
@@allinafter50 I do not know where that statement came from! I did not write it!!!!!!!
ruclips.net/video/a1XUBdvwjnE/видео.html
Great idea, though!
You really need to slow down the idle on that saw
Baby's first chainsaw
Try a 2x6 it will give you a better lip to start and less flex when cutting. I use the same thing with a 1x6 and there is too much flex. Good video
our nova scotia adventure I was going to say the same thing instead of a 1 X 6.
Thanks for the advice. I’ll have to give it a try
nice job man,and explained how you doing it was cool.tu
briliant!!!
no one can hear you talk over the chainsaw noise, LOL
Cool video. Audio is a train wreck. Sounded like Alvin & The Chitmonks were narrating.
great idea
bom de mais essa ideia
Good video but you need turn down the saw sound so we can hear what you talking about
An idea …. That could be developed
I would build a permanent cradle and mount for your jig and you're all set
you will always run on the nuts underneath the actual "slide block" because they are sticking out. pitty! this is definitely hard to push because I guess it is tilting on these nuts...?
easiest method v good
Super super tool👍 🖐
Awesome !
I like it
Is it difficult getting the rail level on the first cut?
Keren bos ,salut
That's hilarious
Simple and ingenious idea, horrible audio on video.
Gute Idee!!!
That's hilarious .
Of all the mill I see this will be my DIY later
Hey. please tell me what you did in the hole bus chainsaw? Thank you
Marat Mars I used a cobalt drill bit, 3/8" and a drill press. Measured half way up the bar and in away from the end so that the sprocket would not be ruined.
Bravó,Bravó!!!
Love it! If you get a chance and are inclined to do so, would you mind editing the last half of your narrative louder? I'm not sure if it's this old man's hearing but I can't hear your voice over the saw. At any rate, sometimes simple is better! Planning on trying something like this myself!
Patricia Petroff I no longer have the source video to make any edits. The end of the video basically just talks about using wedges to keep the bar from binding while sawing. Also make sure to use a mask if you are sawing close to the ground or it might make you sick from the fumes of the saw.
Unfortunately your voice over was completely blocked by the sound of your video. You can hear your chipmunk voice from the sped up video over your voice over and then when you start the saw you can't hear your voice over at all. I think the jig speaks for itself and is pretty simple for people to figure out by just watching but for future videos, maybe make sure that you turn off the sound of the original video during your voice over. Nice jig!
The sound makes it a hard video to follow
Your sound is all screwed up.
Too much chainsaw noise, and ‘Charlie Chipmunk’ didn’t make it any better!
🤝✊👍
very light weght
Ko mi ko bi smo
Next time you record a video try talking when the saw isn’t running nobody can hear a word your saying over the noise of the saw.
Great idea,but just curious to ask if you review before posting your video ! .cheers
Awsome, thanks a bunch for taking the time to put this up!
Nice and smart!!
You need a handle man. Awesome work also.
Going to make it! 😁 My one question I have is with all of these milling videos that I see is that they are cutting the wood to 2"+ thickness. I don't ever see 1/2", 3/4", 1" slabs. Why is that? Especially if you don't have a band saw to mill it down even further.
Guy H. For me it’s all about what I will use in the future. It is all but impossible to buy 2inch thick in the store. You can cut 1inch, just have to make sure you are dead level with you first cut
Mostly because the chain leaves a rougher cut so plaining will be necessary to get a smooth board after it shrinks up to 1/2" while drying. Hope this helps.
@@andymarshall7165 I didn't take into effect the shrinkage. Thanks