@@VinceVenturella which brings me to the question of her skin tone. In this video, she looks quite purple. In your Facebook post, her skin looks less purple and certainly more red in places like the back of her knees. Did you go back and adjust her skin after you shot this video?
Vince, you mention you should add the skin tones in a larger area than you intend, so you can back it out to the correct area later with glazing. If you were doing a a lighter color garment over darker skin, such as a white dress, would you then *under* color the skin areas, and then glaze up from the flesh tones to the lighter garment color? Seems like it would be a nightmare to glaze back the other way and make it look correct.
Yes, so if it was a pale white dress I would likely simply glaze in all the flesh tones and try to minimize the white glazing. White is always a tough color to work with. I would also probably avoid pure white except at my dress highlights and use a close white so it's easier to work with.
"Keep painting back and forth till you like the way it looks... " That's an interesting piece of advice... I'm usually the opposite. I'm such a tough critic of my own stuff that I keep painting/drawing, trying to make it perfect, pass 'really good' and end up somewhere in 'you ruined it...'
Never let perfect be the enemy of the good is a serious thing for me. Perfect is impossible. You will never paint a perfect miniature. i will never paint a perfect miniature, no one will. Most of good painting is just keeping painting and working with smaller and smaller micro-detail until you have it in a nice way that is good enough. :) - Hope that all helps.
Need to give it the old college try again, tried recreating the effect with several figures after seeing Marike Reimer's work. Was blown away by just how perfect she managed to sell the illusion. Did okay with darker cloth and skin tones but lighter ones always looked "wrong/fake" like those " 6 pack abs t-shirt or something >_< Time to give it another go!
*Q1:* Is it possible to get this effect by first painting the entire model as the skin, and then painting the raised edges/folds with the purple, followed by the purple glazes on the flatter areas? *Q2:* Is there a reason not to use "Warcolours" paints every single time I might want to do a glaze? Are there situations where traditionally thinned acrylic glazes will do the job better than semi-transparent gel acrylics?
A1: Yep, I mention this in the video, but you can absolutely do the same thing in reverse. i prefer to do it that way when working completely with an airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella I must have missed it. Thanks. As for "Q2", the question has been on my mind for quite some time. I haven't painted in many years, and the one or two times I tried glazing, I just got frustrated with the runniness of thinned paint. I'm tempted to use the Warcolours paints (or inks mixed with the gel medium) as my go to answer for any glazes I do. Seeing as traditional glazing with regular acrylics is still being done though, I'm inclined to think that the usual method must surely retain some sort of situational advantage (or it would be as good as obsolete).
@@jamesgordley5000 Wider selection of colors and more control over the exact thinness of the glaze. Have you watched my how to glaze video. My guess would be either you aren't wicking your paint off or you need some medium (depending on paint brand).
@@VinceVenturella this is why i read the comments, wicking the glaze off was what ive been missing. Might it help to do same when brush painting with vallejo air ranges? Having a few problemswith them Thanks guys 😁
@@VinceVenturella I just rewatched the glaze video to be sure. Thanks again for responding. My idea is to mix some high-pigment inks (like Daler Rowney) to get the color I want, and then add that to the clear gel medium that Warcolours sells (or directly to a WC paint). While in the process of painting, I would simply add more of the mixture/medium as I needed, whenever I wanted the glaze to be thicker/thinner with regard to pigment density. Preparing those mixtures in advance for later use down the line would require some extra work up front. The payoff being that I'd be able to brush on my glazes quickly, with less need for careful deliberation, and less coats, which should decrease the amount of work I need to do overall. Thoughts? Does this plan have any major holes? :)
Question what about translucent skin, i remember in the second codex Dark Eldar there was a character in it (can´t remember his name) that everytime he had either touched or talked with a none Eldar species he would have his skin washed. He has now done this so many times that his very skin is translucent. How would you paint that?
I have it down as a tutorial to do someday when the figure chance arrives. THe shot answer is you have to paint the muscle strands freehand and then glaze the flesh tone over the top, focusing on the places where it would be thicker and more fleshy and completely "transparent" in the areas where it's very close to the surface of the skin.
I have been mixing my flow improver and my paint together and for me my paint would be over watered down the next day but if I keep it separate and mix small amounts my paint last a lot longer. Hope that helps
There are a lot of great miniature painters, but you are also a great teacher. That is a skill few master. Ty for another great tutorial.
Thank you very much! That is deeply appreciated.
Thanks! The best video and or class I have seen or been in on sheer fabric.
Excellent, thank you and happy to help as always. :)
Some good advice.. will be very useful for the many Kingdom Death girls.
Yes indeed, there are many models in that range that are perfect for this technique.
Thank you for all your videos, they have really helped my painting.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
36:50 - paint bravely. I always forget to do this. I'm always worried I'm going to mess it all up.
Yep, you have to remind yourself. You can't make a mistake. It's only paint, it can always be changed and you will always learn something.
@@VinceVenturella which brings me to the question of her skin tone. In this video, she looks quite purple. In your Facebook post, her skin looks less purple and certainly more red in places like the back of her knees. Did you go back and adjust her skin after you shot this video?
Beautiful Vince, one of my favorite videos of yours yet!
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Vince, you mention you should add the skin tones in a larger area than you intend, so you can back it out to the correct area later with glazing. If you were doing a a lighter color garment over darker skin, such as a white dress, would you then *under* color the skin areas, and then glaze up from the flesh tones to the lighter garment color? Seems like it would be a nightmare to glaze back the other way and make it look correct.
Yes, so if it was a pale white dress I would likely simply glaze in all the flesh tones and try to minimize the white glazing. White is always a tough color to work with. I would also probably avoid pure white except at my dress highlights and use a close white so it's easier to work with.
really cool hair conversion you did there
Thank you, much appreciated, it's like 4 different hair kits, i just kind of kept sticking until i liked it.
Starting Hedonites and I'm going to be referring to this so much.
"Keep painting back and forth till you like the way it looks... " That's an interesting piece of advice... I'm usually the opposite. I'm such a tough critic of my own stuff that I keep painting/drawing, trying to make it perfect, pass 'really good' and end up somewhere in 'you ruined it...'
Never let perfect be the enemy of the good is a serious thing for me. Perfect is impossible. You will never paint a perfect miniature. i will never paint a perfect miniature, no one will. Most of good painting is just keeping painting and working with smaller and smaller micro-detail until you have it in a nice way that is good enough. :) - Hope that all helps.
Great tutorial Vince!
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Need to give it the old college try again, tried recreating the effect with several figures after seeing Marike Reimer's work. Was blown away by just how perfect she managed to sell the illusion. Did okay with darker cloth and skin tones but lighter ones always looked "wrong/fake" like those " 6 pack abs t-shirt or something >_<
Time to give it another go!
There is never a better time than now. :)
And here's the dragon rider!
Yes indeed, had to time them together.
My Wyches appreciate this video. :)
Excellent, always happy to help.
great video
Thank you, much appreciated.
A little late but what model is this cause I'd really like to get for my self.
It's Alarielle who is normally on a giant beetle) from Games Workshop, but converted fairly heavily.
@@VinceVenturella thanks
Bro how do you not have more subcribers
RUclips Algorithms I guess? ;)- but thank you greatly.
*Q1:* Is it possible to get this effect by first painting the entire model as the skin, and then painting the raised edges/folds with the purple, followed by the purple glazes on the flatter areas?
*Q2:* Is there a reason not to use "Warcolours" paints every single time I might want to do a glaze? Are there situations where traditionally thinned acrylic glazes will do the job better than semi-transparent gel acrylics?
A1: Yep, I mention this in the video, but you can absolutely do the same thing in reverse. i prefer to do it that way when working completely with an airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella
I must have missed it. Thanks.
As for "Q2", the question has been on my mind for quite some time. I haven't painted in many years, and the one or two times I tried glazing, I just got frustrated with the runniness of thinned paint. I'm tempted to use the Warcolours paints (or inks mixed with the gel medium) as my go to answer for any glazes I do. Seeing as traditional glazing with regular acrylics is still being done though, I'm inclined to think that the usual method must surely retain some sort of situational advantage (or it would be as good as obsolete).
@@jamesgordley5000 Wider selection of colors and more control over the exact thinness of the glaze. Have you watched my how to glaze video. My guess would be either you aren't wicking your paint off or you need some medium (depending on paint brand).
@@VinceVenturella this is why i read the comments, wicking the glaze off was what ive been missing.
Might it help to do same when brush painting with vallejo air ranges? Having a few problemswith them
Thanks guys 😁
@@VinceVenturella
I just rewatched the glaze video to be sure. Thanks again for responding.
My idea is to mix some high-pigment inks (like Daler Rowney) to get the color I want, and then add that to the clear gel medium that Warcolours sells (or directly to a WC paint). While in the process of painting, I would simply add more of the mixture/medium as I needed, whenever I wanted the glaze to be thicker/thinner with regard to pigment density.
Preparing those mixtures in advance for later use down the line would require some extra work up front. The payoff being that I'd be able to brush on my glazes quickly, with less need for careful deliberation, and less coats, which should decrease the amount of work I need to do overall.
Thoughts? Does this plan have any major holes? :)
Which flow aid are you using?
I use both Liquitex and Warcolours, but most anything will work.
nice video, where can i get this modell? doesn't look like your normal daemonette.
edit: well, 33 minutes in i have my answer :P
It's a conversion. Looks like Ariel (SP) off the big beetle as the base model with demonette bits and what have you swapped in.
yep, Marcello is correct, it's Alarielle the Everqueen with some parts swaps (and without her wings).
Fantastic job Vince!
Just about to attempt this on a model, you read my mind - And a great tutorial :D - BTW what's the Slaanesh model, it's awesome
It's a conversion of Alarielle the Everqueen and some Slaanesh parts from various daemonettes. Glad it was convincing. ;)
@@VinceVenturella Absolutely love it .. fancy making me one :D
Question what about translucent skin, i remember in the second codex Dark Eldar there was a character in it (can´t remember his name) that everytime he had either touched or talked with a none Eldar species he would have his skin washed.
He has now done this so many times that his very skin is translucent.
How would you paint that?
I have it down as a tutorial to do someday when the figure chance arrives. THe shot answer is you have to paint the muscle strands freehand and then glaze the flesh tone over the top, focusing on the places where it would be thicker and more fleshy and completely "transparent" in the areas where it's very close to the surface of the skin.
@@VinceVenturella Maybe the Doppleganger from Malifaux?
Thanks for putting the wet palette in the video. Just found out that I’m using it all wrong. I know that sounds dumb but hey it me. I can own it.
Happy to help as always. :)
James Meeks forgive me but I have to ask, how were you using it wrongly? I’m curious just in case I’m also making the same mistake.
I have been mixing my flow improver and my paint together and for me my paint would be over watered down the next day but if I keep it separate and mix small amounts my paint last a lot longer. Hope that helps
Wait, is he not gonna paint th... oh right youtube...
Yep, you got it.
Who are the 5 numskulls who don't like this?
There will always be a few. :)
What an ugly model. Not the paintjob, the model itself.