Great video mate! I added the wire for deep sleep. Be aware that deep sleep prevents the sensor from heating. In my current config I have an "update_interval: 3min" and for sleeping "run_duration: 1min" and "sleep_duration: 9min". This config will give you an accurate temp without having to map. In a experiment I did, taking many readings (short update interval) I could see how the sensor would heat up after waking up. So the key is keeping the sensor asleep and quickly take one or two temp readings after waking it up, and go to sleep again.
Wanted to say thank you for these videos, they got me into Home assistant exactly for this temperature control feature (specially that commercial products have many limitations such as needing Hubs, only battery powered etc). It is really a shame about needing the "deep sleep" wire, this is some fine soldering I cannot do with my bad eyesight (also the ESP I have has some capacitors very close etc. I will see to feed it with a 5V charger and wall plug etc... )
Great video Colin. Like the tip with the insulation to keep the temp chip away from the heat of the ESP8266. The voltage regulator will also generate heat, so this will help with that also. I haven't tried to do the little deepsleep wire hack yet - that's really the only issue with the ESP-01 boards when using them as a sensor micro-controller. Tried ESPHome from your recommendation, found it very useful compared to Tasmota to adjust the sensor values and the mapping. Think I will stick to Tasmota for powered devices as they also have Wemo and Philips Hue emulation to voice control via Alexa, and ESPHome for custom fine control and battery use of sensors modules.
I hang my head in shame as i've not tried Tasmota 😬 I really must try it. I've signed up for Nabu Casa on home assistant for $5 a month so get Alexa control that way, so i'm told anyway lol
1:02 "Just a heads up, the battery you're pointing at is actually a Li-ion 18650, not a LiPo. LiPo batteries are thinner, flexible, and have higher energy density, while Li-ion 18650 batteries are cylinders with lower density. Li-ion 18650 batteries are commonly found in laptops, flashlights, and power banks, and are around 65mm long and 18mm in diameter. LiPo batteries are typically used in RC models, drones, and portable electronics, and come in various shapes and sizes depending on the application.
I don't get it. The battery holder seems run in series, and it can holder 4pcs of 1.5V, total output voltage = 6V. I have checked the specification of ESP-01 it can be powered with voltage ~3.3V. Would the voltage burn the ESP-01??
Should be easy enough to extent the lead to the temp sensor to mount it off board and get rid of the board heat problem - these devices are quitre tolerant of lead lengths even when run in the parasitic mode.
Great video! I bought some modules and tried it myself, my first attempt to do anything like this. My unit is getting really hot though. It measures about 10 degrees warmer than the actual temperature. I can feel heat radiating from it. Im powering it with 4 AA's (non rechargeable, will buy chargeable batteriers later on. I havent done the sleep fix either). Does the voltage regulator generate more heat if its supplied with higher voltage?
Yes i believe it shall generate a little more heat if it's supplied with a higher voltage. I was able to calibrate mine as i showed in the video. An issue you may have though is if the difference is not consistent which is hard to compensate for.
Great video mate! I added the wire for deep sleep. Be aware that deep sleep prevents the sensor from heating. In my current config I have an "update_interval: 3min" and for sleeping "run_duration: 1min" and "sleep_duration: 9min". This config will give you an accurate temp without having to map.
In a experiment I did, taking many readings (short update interval) I could see how the sensor would heat up after waking up. So the key is keeping the sensor asleep and quickly take one or two temp readings after waking it up, and go to sleep again.
Wanted to say thank you for these videos, they got me into Home assistant exactly for this temperature control feature (specially that commercial products have many limitations such as needing Hubs, only battery powered etc). It is really a shame about needing the "deep sleep" wire, this is some fine soldering I cannot do with my bad eyesight (also the ESP I have has some capacitors very close etc. I will see to feed it with a 5V charger and wall plug etc... )
KISS, Keep it simple ..., nicely done, simple and to the point!
Nice little module - and a good project for me to start using espHome :-). Cheers Colin.
Great video Colin. Like the tip with the insulation to keep the temp chip away from the heat of the ESP8266. The voltage regulator will also generate heat, so this will help with that also. I haven't tried to do the little deepsleep wire hack yet - that's really the only issue with the ESP-01 boards when using them as a sensor micro-controller.
Tried ESPHome from your recommendation, found it very useful compared to Tasmota to adjust the sensor values and the mapping. Think I will stick to Tasmota for powered devices as they also have Wemo and Philips Hue emulation to voice control via Alexa, and ESPHome for custom fine control and battery use of sensors modules.
I hang my head in shame as i've not tried Tasmota 😬 I really must try it. I've signed up for Nabu Casa on home assistant for $5 a month so get Alexa control that way, so i'm told anyway lol
2:30 when you turn it 90° it's not right below anymore, but right beside... ;)
I think the start-up/boot time can be reduced if you use a static IP rather than relaying DHCP. Which will further help with battery life.
Good call!
Awsome, thanks for sharing
I have never seen those modules, so just bought some of course! lol
1:02 "Just a heads up, the battery you're pointing at is actually a Li-ion 18650, not a LiPo. LiPo batteries are thinner, flexible, and have higher energy density, while Li-ion 18650 batteries are cylinders with lower density. Li-ion 18650 batteries are commonly found in laptops, flashlights, and power banks, and are around 65mm long and 18mm in diameter. LiPo batteries are typically used in RC models, drones, and portable electronics, and come in various shapes and sizes depending on the application.
I don't get it. The battery holder seems run in series, and it can holder 4pcs of 1.5V, total output voltage = 6V. I have checked the specification of ESP-01 it can be powered with voltage ~3.3V. Would the voltage burn the ESP-01??
the sensor board has a voltage regulator or it should
Should be easy enough to extent the lead to the temp sensor to mount it off board and get rid of the board heat problem - these devices are quitre tolerant of lead lengths even when run in the parasitic mode.
Yes that would be a better solution i think as opposed to trying to insulate it.
Great video! I bought some modules and tried it myself, my first attempt to do anything like this. My unit is getting really hot though. It measures about 10 degrees warmer than the actual temperature. I can feel heat radiating from it. Im powering it with 4 AA's (non rechargeable, will buy chargeable batteriers later on. I havent done the sleep fix either). Does the voltage regulator generate more heat if its supplied with higher voltage?
Yes i believe it shall generate a little more heat if it's supplied with a higher voltage. I was able to calibrate mine as i showed in the video. An issue you may have though is if the difference is not consistent which is hard to compensate for.
What hardware do you use to flash the ESP01?
this is the way i do it. ruclips.net/video/cTfjqNFAkZ8/видео.html
canny man canny
Why thank you, geet canny man ;-)