On the wire wrap: the post or wire can corrode and cause resistance in the connection. A Navy Chief I knew, told us about working on Vigilantes on the aircraft carrier. When they launched off the catapults, they often lost the loaded program, which caused a return to the ship. One of the black boxes on the jet had a couple hundred wire wrap connections. He had one of his techs solder all the wire wraps. No more problems.
A properly ((key word ) made wire wrap connection will be gas tight and shouldn't corrode. In telecom, we went from soldered connections to wire wrap with no issues. Truth be told, either can fail for a variety of reasons.
I wrap the edges of all front panels with masking tape. Stays on and does not leave any adhesive behind. Cheep way to keep from scratching up plastic and aluminum front panels. Great videos and good work. Thanks.
Thanks FR. Forgot to mention that PAC1085 said he uses low stick masking tape for that purpose. He did warn not to get it on the silk screened lettering as it can pull it off the panel.
Hi Ray, I've watched some of your videos, and you've got a new subscriber. You're doing a great job with your channel, and I hope it'll get the recognition it deserves asap. Cheers from Spain
Scrappy, it's one of those things: the more you learn, the more you realize there is to learn. I alternatively find that exciting or daunting, depending on the day. Or the task in front of me.
I’m a beginner and I was hoping you could give a brief explanation on how I access the pots, specifically the volume pot to clean the contact with deoxit. I have a pesky fuzzy volume knob. Kind regards.
About the alignment of the tuner, did you follow the instructions in the SM? Furthermore the contacts on the ax of the variable cap need good cleaning, if they don’t make good contact you loose signal. It’s a tedious job. Some people use a kind of hook the dentist uses to torture you with. -;). Have you tried that cleaning procedure?
I clean the contact points with a good no residue cleaner. I follow the manual unless it outlines a procedure using dated test equipment and I have more modern equivalents. Or if there's an obvious mistake, something Marantz manuals are notorious for.
@@raygianelli3612 Well perhaps you have reached the end of the capabilities of the front end when you maxed out all alignment points. Measured the distortion of tuner section? Xraytonyb has put some nice videos on RUclips about alignment.
@@jansen2810 I have recommended Tony's videos on my channel. Part 4 of this Marantz repair shows the fix of the front end, which did have a problem. And the measurement of the distortion.
Excellent idea using a substitute front end! I have not seen anyone do that before. I have an old junk receiver and I am going to make myself one of those. You are making some great videos. Thanks Ray!
Appreciate the response, Jonathan! I had seen TV tuner "subber's", as they were known. So this seemed like a good idea. It's truly gratifying to hear that folks like you are getting useful information from these videos. That puts a smile on my face!
Loving the series, Ray. I have a 2270 front end mounted on a board like yours that I made on recommendation of Mr. Tom (catrafter) on AK. It's really nice to be able to pin down a weak signal to either the front end or later circuits when starting out troubleshooting. Looking forward to your experience replacing the FET's. I had a recent FET experience on a Marantz 2245 that resulted in a hard lesson learned. Keep up the good work!
I have seen elsewhere that you can indeed successfully use only a multimeter to trouble shoot/repair audio equipment. A good meter in $50 range was deemed best choice.
I made a video proving that very point, and successfully repaired a power amp using only a $5 Harbor Freight DMM. As for $50 being the sweet spot, that's probably true depending on what you're doing with it. OK for basic audio repair, not so much for precision measurement of test equipment.
wish i had a little more knowledge on this stuff... i love old stereos and get them from time to time... i was currently working on cleaning up an old KLH fifty, receiver... last time i checked in on it, the radio, took a while to work, for some reason, but then did... at that time i noticed, all but 1 display light was out, so i bought some LED bulbs... went to test it all again, and everything but the radio works(no am or fm)... i got phono, aux, and tape in... but nothing from the am or fm.... also the new LED lights look sweet... but it's bugging me cause it's otherwise in really near mint shape... only other thing i noticed was the balance seems reversed.... i was using headphones, and right was left, and left was right... wondering if that was just always like that,, by accident, from the factory... btw.. good work on this... seems you had your work cut out for you, for sure... i hope your friend took you for a nice meal, or something... lol...i'm hooked now, and have to see it through, till it's all fixed... lol
First off, no one was born with this knowledge. We all had to learn it, and there's no reason why you can't too. If neither AM or FM works, check out the power supply that feeds the tuner. Usually around 12-14 volts. Happy hunting!
On the wire wrap: the post or wire can corrode and cause resistance in the connection. A Navy Chief I knew, told us about working on Vigilantes on the aircraft carrier. When they launched off the catapults, they often lost the loaded program, which caused a return to the ship. One of the black boxes on the jet had a couple hundred wire wrap connections. He had one of his techs solder all the wire wraps. No more problems.
A properly ((key word ) made wire wrap connection will be gas tight and shouldn't corrode. In telecom, we went from soldered connections to wire wrap with no issues. Truth be told, either can fail for a variety of reasons.
I wrap the edges of all front panels with masking tape. Stays on and does not leave any adhesive behind. Cheep way to keep from scratching up plastic and aluminum front panels. Great videos and good work. Thanks.
Thanks FR. Forgot to mention that PAC1085 said he uses low stick masking tape for that purpose. He did warn not to get it on the silk screened lettering as it can pull it off the panel.
Enjoy your videos Ray, keep up the good work sir.
Hi Ray, I've watched some of your videos, and you've got a new subscriber. You're doing a great job with your channel, and I hope it'll get the recognition it deserves asap.
Cheers from Spain
Thank you sir and welcome aboard!
Can't wait for the basics. I have a lot to learn, esp with tuners.
Scrappy, it's one of those things: the more you learn, the more you realize there is to learn. I alternatively find that exciting or daunting, depending on the day. Or the task in front of me.
@@raygianelli3612 So true!
I also have a wire wrap gun from my days at Bell. Not many opportunities to use it these days.
Looking forward to the “back to basics” videos.
Oh no, if you fix something with just a cheap meter, you'll blow my justification for buying lots of fancy test equipment! 😁
Well, I haven't actually done it yet, so act now!
I’m a beginner and I was hoping you could give a brief explanation on how I access the pots, specifically the volume pot to clean the contact with deoxit. I have a pesky fuzzy volume knob. Kind regards.
They're not all the same. Most older pots will have access above where the contacts are.
About the alignment of the tuner, did you follow the instructions in the SM? Furthermore the contacts on the ax of the variable cap need good cleaning, if they don’t make good contact you loose signal. It’s a tedious job. Some people use a kind of hook the dentist uses to torture you with. -;). Have you tried that cleaning procedure?
I clean the contact points with a good no residue cleaner.
I follow the manual unless it outlines a procedure using dated test equipment and I have more modern equivalents. Or if there's an obvious mistake, something Marantz manuals are notorious for.
@@raygianelli3612 Well perhaps you have reached the end of the capabilities of the front end when you maxed out all alignment points. Measured the distortion of tuner section? Xraytonyb has put some nice videos on RUclips about alignment.
@@jansen2810 I have recommended Tony's videos on my channel. Part 4 of this Marantz repair shows the fix of the front end, which did have a problem. And the measurement of the distortion.
@@raygianelli3612 Great! Didn’t watch it yet. I like your videos!
Excellent idea using a substitute front end! I have not seen anyone do that before. I have an old junk receiver and I am going to make myself one of those. You are making some great videos. Thanks Ray!
Appreciate the response, Jonathan! I had seen TV tuner "subber's", as they were known. So this seemed like a good idea.
It's truly gratifying to hear that folks like you are getting useful information from these videos. That puts a smile on my face!
Loving the series, Ray. I have a 2270 front end mounted on a board like yours that I made on recommendation of Mr. Tom (catrafter) on AK. It's really nice to be able to pin down a weak signal to either the front end or later circuits when starting out troubleshooting. Looking forward to your experience replacing the FET's. I had a recent FET experience on a Marantz 2245 that resulted in a hard lesson learned. Keep up the good work!
Can't wait to hear about your FET experience, Steven! PM sent.
I made mine because I remember seeing TV tuner subber's. Seemed like a good idea.
I have seen elsewhere that you can indeed successfully use only a multimeter to trouble shoot/repair audio equipment. A good meter in $50 range was deemed best choice.
I made a video proving that very point, and successfully repaired a power amp using only a $5 Harbor Freight DMM.
As for $50 being the sweet spot, that's probably true depending on what you're doing with it. OK for basic audio repair, not so much for precision measurement of test equipment.
wish i had a little more knowledge on this stuff... i love old stereos and get them from time to time... i was currently working on cleaning up an old KLH fifty, receiver... last time i checked in on it, the radio, took a while to work, for some reason, but then did... at that time i noticed, all but 1 display light was out, so i bought some LED bulbs... went to test it all again, and everything but the radio works(no am or fm)... i got phono, aux, and tape in... but nothing from the am or fm.... also the new LED lights look sweet... but it's bugging me cause it's otherwise in really near mint shape... only other thing i noticed was the balance seems reversed.... i was using headphones, and right was left, and left was right... wondering if that was just always like that,, by accident, from the factory... btw.. good work on this... seems you had your work cut out for you, for sure... i hope your friend took you for a nice meal, or something... lol...i'm hooked now, and have to see it through, till it's all fixed... lol
First off, no one was born with this knowledge. We all had to learn it, and there's no reason why you can't too.
If neither AM or FM works, check out the power supply that feeds the tuner. Usually around 12-14 volts. Happy hunting!
@@raygianelli3612 thx for the kind words! and will take your advise on checking it further!