Agree with some of what you said. However, the lateral force used on the wrench will cause an uneven force against the tsp causing inconsistency in the threads… just my opinion…. If you true the action by chasing the threads and going larger on pitch diameter would be my preferred method… after the receiver is indicated properly of course. I’ve only been doing toolmaker/gunsmith work for 40 years… everyone has their preferred method and ideas of what is or isn’t correct..
Well, I check the run out after I'm done on every one I do. ruclips.net/video/LEkuiriSees/видео.html If you figure .002 inch runout at 9 inches, .002÷9=.00022 off over one inch. I have yet to have anyone show me proof that they can cut that accurate with a boring bar on receiver threads. The big reason the taps cut that accurately is because I work up in tap sizes in .0005 inch increments and work the taps on and off until the cutting stresses are gone. Putting a ground bar in them afterwards and checking them with a 1/10th indicator is proof.
@@ta2dmacabre pretty simple to test. Next time you true one with a boring bar. Chuck a piece of material in the machine, thread it, screw the trued up body on it, run a tight fitting ground mandrel in it and check the run out at the end. I've used various systems to recut the threads and I have also checked quite a few that others trued up. I don't guess, speculate or estimate. I measure.
@@ta2dmacabre if you Rockwell test the receivers at different points you will find the tops and bottoms of the receivers are generally 1 to 3 points softer because they are heavier because of the locking seats and cool slower in the quench. The bad part of doing it with taps is the cost. The taps come in .0005 inch increments. If memory serves I bought H4, H6, H8, H10, H12, H14 to start in .001 inch increments and then I added H15, H16, H17, H18, H19 and H20 so I finish in .0005 inch cuts. H20 is .010 inch over sized. Somehow I think I ended up with a total of 12 taps. I had them special cut by Victor Machine tools in the USA. I think the bill for all of them was around $1,600.00 Canadian. It's not a cheap system.
I have done many by single point. The problem with single point cutting is that you invariably take out more material than is necessary and they never seem to come out as accurate. The down side of the taps is having to buy the set of taps which ends up costing about $2,000 USD. The taps are more recommended for gunsmiths that will do many over the course of the years.
The action follows the tight fitting mandrel which is locked solid to the tap. If something is out of alignment something has to give to let the action screw on to the tap. So, the action can bend, the mandrel can bend, the tap can bend or the tap can simply cut away the part of the thread that is miss aligned. When cutting and going up in 1/2 thousanths increments you can actually check between size jumps and see it cutting a bit more each time you check it. It keeps cutting from the same location until it screws up loosely and straight. Most of the time it will cut from one side only for the first three or four jumps in tap sizes and then it will finally start cutting completely around when everything gets straight. The best part is that each tap is 1/2 thousandths larger than the one before and the tap can cut no more than that 1,000th you don't have that kind of control when you single point cut.
It's nice to see a competent gunsmith actually explaining the process. Thank you
I only take walk in traffic. No mail order as I am a one man shop now.
Rod, kudos to Tyler Shandro for standing up for the people of Alberta! I saw there are now 5 of the 13 provinces standing up to Trudy.👏
Been watching Action Truing videos for many years now. This is by far the best process and explanation that I have seen.
Thank You
Dave Manson has a very nice truing tap that works very well also.
good to see you posting again
Very informative as usual, thanks for the upload
Awesome instructional video! Love all the tooling that you make. Only problem with that wrench is that it sounds like a damned tuning fork!
Yup it's annoying. The wrench is actually aluminum so it won't damage the ways on the machine when I crash into them with it. Always thunkin, I is !
@@RodHenricksonGunsmith smart!
Agree with some of what you said. However, the lateral force used on the wrench will cause an uneven force against the tsp causing inconsistency in the threads… just my opinion…. If you true the action by chasing the threads and going larger on pitch diameter would be my preferred method… after the receiver is indicated properly of course. I’ve only been doing toolmaker/gunsmith work for 40 years… everyone has their preferred method and ideas of what is or isn’t correct..
Well, I check the run out after I'm done on every one I do. ruclips.net/video/LEkuiriSees/видео.html
If you figure .002 inch runout at 9 inches, .002÷9=.00022 off over one inch. I have yet to have anyone show me proof that they can cut that accurate with a boring bar on receiver threads. The big reason the taps cut that accurately is because I work up in tap sizes in .0005 inch increments and work the taps on and off until the cutting stresses are gone.
Putting a ground bar in them afterwards and checking them with a 1/10th indicator is proof.
Again, everyone has there preferred method… I’m finding it hard to buy the accuracy but if you say it works for you..then it works for you
@@ta2dmacabre pretty simple to test. Next time you true one with a boring bar. Chuck a piece of material in the machine, thread it, screw the trued up body on it, run a tight fitting ground mandrel in it and check the run out at the end. I've used various systems to recut the threads and I have also checked quite a few that others trued up. I don't guess, speculate or estimate. I measure.
I’ll give it a go… my other question is why would one side of a receiver be softer than the other side or any part like the locking lugs be softer?
@@ta2dmacabre if you Rockwell test the receivers at different points you will find the tops and bottoms of the receivers are generally 1 to 3 points softer because they are heavier because of the locking seats and cool slower in the quench. The bad part of doing it with taps is the cost. The taps come in .0005 inch increments. If memory serves I bought H4, H6, H8, H10, H12, H14 to start in .001 inch increments and then I added H15, H16, H17, H18, H19 and H20 so I finish in .0005 inch cuts. H20 is .010 inch over sized. Somehow I think I ended up with a total of 12 taps. I had them special cut by Victor Machine tools in the USA. I think the bill for all of them was around $1,600.00 Canadian. It's not a cheap system.
Nice work Bud!
Excellent tip, thankyou.
Where did you get your taps to begin with? I couldn’t make out where you said in the video? Thank you for the info!
Would the same tooling work on other bolt action receivers?
Nice work
nice video, thanks.
What’s this cost to have done Mr Hendrickson?
I charge $250 CAD to do the threads, lap the lugs in, true the bolt face and action face. But I only do walk in traffic only. No mail in.
Can I send you a remington 700 action for you to tru and blueprint
I only take in walk in work as I am a 1 man shop. No mail or shipped in work.
Ok. Thank you very much for the reply. I’m in New Orleans so that’s a pretty far walk I’m sure.
Can this be done single point?
I have done many by single point. The problem with single point cutting is that you invariably take out more material than is necessary and they never seem to come out as accurate. The down side of the taps is having to buy the set of taps which ends up costing about $2,000 USD. The taps are more recommended for gunsmiths that will do many over the course of the years.
Hey Rod, are you still on the Homegunsmith Forums? Can you ping Ryan for me to get my login approved? I
I haven't posted on any of the forums in years.
@@RodHenricksonGunsmith Do you hang out on any forums these days? You have some good videos here though... :)
I don’t see how you’re more accurate with a tap. The tap is just following an already formed thread, so any runout is just expanded by the tap
The action follows the tight fitting mandrel which is locked solid to the tap. If something is out of alignment something has to give to let the action screw on to the tap. So, the action can bend, the mandrel can bend, the tap can bend or the tap can simply cut away the part of the thread that is miss aligned. When cutting and going up in 1/2 thousanths increments you can actually check between size jumps and see it cutting a bit more each time you check it. It keeps cutting from the same location until it screws up loosely and straight. Most of the time it will cut from one side only for the first three or four jumps in tap sizes and then it will finally start cutting completely around when everything gets straight. The best part is that each tap is 1/2 thousandths larger than the one before and the tap can cut no more than that 1,000th you don't have that kind of control when you single point cut.