I did not go through all that. I disconnected the steering column extension and pushed it down out of the way. Next I grabbed my 1/4" air ratchet with a 15mm socket and zapped all 4 bolts it took about 5 min. then removed the clip disconnected the brake rod. next, I went under the hood and removed the master cylinder, and threw it in the trash lol. Next removed the power booster and threw it in the trash lol. next, I installed everything in reverse but of course I bled the master cylinder before I installed it. have fun lol. My Vehicle is a 1997 chevy 2dr 4x4 tahoe.
That's just a lot of amercian cars. Worked on chevys, kias, gmcs, ford's, toyotas, Hondas etc. and always found american cars to be more difficult and not mechanic friendly. Always seems like everything is rushed and put together quick to pump up numbers and keep up with production of other brands mainly Japanese. Things that should be easy to get to like an oil filter would be put in between hot exhaust manifolds or be put so deep in you can only reach one arm in to take it off. A normal tune up can take hours because they decided to put the engine deep into the cabin of the truck or car and makes it really un accessible. That's not to say amercian brands only do this but it's a majority of the time when one comes in it'll be a long job.
YES! My mom has one of these that has a lot of little issues like this and EVERY SINGLE ONE requires some special tool or removing the dashboard to change a sparkplug. Freaking maddening.
My booster on my truck right now is so bad that I plugged it off to keep it from stumbling at red lights runs way better -the fact my pedal is hard to push but I'll fix it in a few days
What's the best an safest but cheapest power brake booster to buy I'm living pay check to pay check an I have 5 kids that ride in this truck as well any help
The Tahoe I bought has the same brake light switch. Whoever was in there before did not reinstall the retainer. Does it go on before the switch or after?
I heard that GM offered a hydraulic booster or a vacuum booster for the brakes in those years. Which was yours? You didn't show why you were replacing the master cylinder either.
@@boxerfan2 the clip that holds the booster piston and the brake switch to the booster piston. its easy to get off. i used a bad tool with sliht bend on the end to get under the clip. then another poker to spread the clip and lift with other tool to pop it off the stud.
@@boxerfan2 dab tool sorry. Autocorrect. Flat paddle style about 1/4" x 2" paddle. When you put it in there youll be able to tell the angle you need to bend
If you are replacing a master cylinder in a 96 C1500 because it is bad, why on earth are you replacing it with the same one? the 1988-1998 trucks are notorious for having a long and spongy brake pedal feel right from the factory. Many guys are ripping these perfectly good cylinders out and replacing them with NBS (New Body Style) and gaining a drastically improved pedal performance... Bolt on swap, only 1 brake line adapter needed. So if you are replacing a bad one, why not install a much improved one for the same cost?
The answer is probably in a book somewhere but I don't know I do know they are all physically different whether it's master cylinder bore pushrod length overall diameter and overall thickness I usually bring the old one in to compare when shopping for new one
Great video very informative, just saying I've owned this generation Chevys for decades I've never even heard of anyone having to move the column. Thanks for the great videos.👍👍
I actually had the entire brake system replaced right down to the brake lines. 97 Silverado 320,000 miles. The backend started locking up. I'd skid to a stop. 3 garages couldn't figure it out! ... I wanted to replace all of it anyway. This is my forever truck.
Clip should have been the last thing removed. all collapse's when you remove all bolts from booster and pull out of firewall. You can "see" the clip then. . DO NOT GO THIS ROUTE.
I did not go through all that. I disconnected the steering column extension and pushed it down out of the way. Next I grabbed my 1/4" air ratchet with a 15mm socket and zapped all 4 bolts it took about 5 min. then removed the clip disconnected the brake rod. next, I went under the hood and removed the master cylinder, and threw it in the trash lol. Next removed the power booster and threw it in the trash lol. next, I installed everything in reverse but of course I bled the master cylinder before I installed it. have fun lol.
My Vehicle is a 1997 chevy 2dr 4x4 tahoe.
To access clip and 4 bolts NONE of that is necessary. When he said “We’re doing this so you don’t have to” he didn’t know how prophetic he was!
right? lol took me about 5 minutes to remove that clip. just had to make a couple small tools to get in there.
I've noticed that engineers give no concerns about accessibility for repairs.
That's just a lot of amercian cars. Worked on chevys, kias, gmcs, ford's, toyotas, Hondas etc. and always found american cars to be more difficult and not mechanic friendly. Always seems like everything is rushed and put together quick to pump up numbers and keep up with production of other brands mainly Japanese. Things that should be easy to get to like an oil filter would be put in between hot exhaust manifolds or be put so deep in you can only reach one arm in to take it off. A normal tune up can take hours because they decided to put the engine deep into the cabin of the truck or car and makes it really un accessible. That's not to say amercian brands only do this but it's a majority of the time when one comes in it'll be a long job.
@@brandonlo5162 i think is so that you have to take to their dealers so they keep selling oem parts and dealer gets more?? no?
these dummies didnt need to take the dash all apart. 5 minutes to get that clip off the brake pedal if youre smart and make a couple tools.
They do that on purpose so you bring your car back to the dealership to get it repaired
YES! My mom has one of these that has a lot of little issues like this and EVERY SINGLE ONE requires some special tool or removing the dashboard to change a sparkplug. Freaking maddening.
My booster on my truck right now is so bad that I plugged it off to keep it from stumbling at red lights runs way better -the fact my pedal is hard to push but I'll fix it in a few days
How do you do that
😂😂 your truck and mine must be brothers cause she acts crazy as heck with my brake booster and master cylinder out.
I just did one of these today and figured out how to do it with out dripping the column
What did you use?
@@igguka use a pick to spread the gap on the clip and use a flathead screw driver to push the clip out .
@@kenithj76 Its easy getting the clip off but I caught hell getting it back on
its actually so easy. these guys mustve smoked a whole crack rock before they tore their truck apart lol
@@michaelc5985 lmao right? I used two flatheads. One pried under and another long skinny one to manipulate
Appreciate the video, helped me out immensely
No problem thanks for the comment 😀
@@GibsonGarage about to tear into my 98 K1500
Muchas gracias por el vídeo, necesitaba una orientación para hacer ese trabajo 🙋🇲🇽
What's the best an safest but cheapest power brake booster to buy I'm living pay check to pay check an I have 5 kids that ride in this truck as well any help
Junkyard not only is it OEM but it'll definitely be the cheapest LOL
I found a booster with master cylinder for a $60 in a junkyard!!!!
Dan guys use swivels and ratchets and extensions.... Lol good job tho...
Thank you sir for the content
You really should use the wire harness support that is supposed to be attached to two nuts on the booster.
victory indeed
If I have to do that, I'll stop it with my feet.
I'm with you on that one Mr. Flintstone!
Heh… I have no choice😭😅
great job! thanx for the video hope mine goes easier
I was this close🤏
The Tahoe I bought has the same brake light switch. Whoever was in there before did not reinstall the retainer. Does it go on before the switch or after?
after?
Is the brake light switch electrical thing that's like a twist lock and pops off first then the retainer??
… I was able to get my hand back there and do the whole job without taking any of that stuff out of the way.. it only makes it BARELY easier..
I heard that GM offered a hydraulic booster or a vacuum booster for the brakes in those years. Which was yours? You didn't show why you were replacing the master cylinder either.
All I do is put a flat head and wiggle till it comes off, works every time takes no more than maybe 10-15 seconds
On what part? Explain please.
@@boxerfan2 the clip that holds the booster piston and the brake switch to the booster piston. its easy to get off. i used a bad tool with sliht bend on the end to get under the clip. then another poker to spread the clip and lift with other tool to pop it off the stud.
@@michaelc5985 Oh I see. Thanks for the info I will use your advice and try it.
@@boxerfan2 dab tool sorry. Autocorrect. Flat paddle style about 1/4" x 2" paddle. When you put it in there youll be able to tell the angle you need to bend
If you are replacing a master cylinder in a 96 C1500 because it is bad, why on earth are you replacing it with the same one? the 1988-1998 trucks are notorious for having a long and spongy brake pedal feel right from the factory. Many guys are ripping these perfectly good cylinders out and replacing them with NBS (New Body Style) and gaining a drastically improved pedal performance... Bolt on swap, only 1 brake line adapter needed. So if you are replacing a bad one, why not install a much improved one for the same cost?
Didn't know
So a 96 you buy a what upgrades?
What year upgraded ?
I'm going to assume 1999 to at least 2005 not a bad idea thanks
Good video
Thank u
how do we know if we need a jb5 or jb6 booster?
The answer is probably in a book somewhere but I don't know I do know they are all physically different whether it's master cylinder bore pushrod length overall diameter and overall thickness I usually bring the old one in to compare when shopping for new one
Plus a $30 core charge
vin number either has j5, j6 or j7 in it.
They made them fit all of them with one booster now😊
Absolutely not necessary to remove the steering column
Late models gmt400 yes
Great video very informative, just saying I've owned this generation Chevys for decades I've never even heard of anyone having to move the column. Thanks for the great videos.👍👍
It is necessary to. My brake booster did NOT come off until we disconnected the steering column.
Never had to on my 97 suburban and 99 2 door Tahoe
I didn’t have to on my 1997 sierra but i’m sure it would’ve made it easier to get hands in the hard to reach spots.
Omg in changing mine today and I can't even see that clip. Engineers suck
headlamp us useful
Hi do you know what size the fittings going into the master cylinder are?
Should have used deep sockets and ext .
this is funny
Is it possible to flush the booster? How do you know when the booster needs to be replaced?
If you press the brakes and you hear loud hissing and you brakes are hard to press coming to a stop then it's bad .
Thank you
@@snowmama9030 you're welcome and did you ever replace the booster?
I actually had the entire brake system replaced right down to the brake lines. 97 Silverado 320,000 miles. The backend started locking up. I'd skid to a stop. 3 garages couldn't figure it out! ... I wanted to replace all of it anyway. This is my forever truck.
BTW... It was a defective master cylinder
But I have to do all that shit
no you dont. these guys are on crack.
What sizes you using?
Sizes of what
Do u have a parts truck in that goldish Silver?
Clip should have been the last thing removed. all collapse's when you remove all bolts from booster and pull out of firewall. You can "see" the clip then. . DO NOT GO THIS ROUTE.
You guys look like amatures never did mechanic work.
98 not easy to change
This is maybe a 30 min job .
YOU SKIPPED THE PART I NEED HELP WITH!!!°°
L
Garth why did you cut your hair? An were has wayne gone?
That was wayne... It's been rough
@@GibsonGarage 🤣